N°23 February 2011

The newsletter The newsletter “Bourgognes International” is the information bulletin on Burgundy wines, intended for the trade (importers, retailers, wine shops owners, etc.). Issued 5 times per year, it enables you to keep up with the latest news from the Burgundy wines sector, companies, and the Wine Board. In order to help us meet your needs as closely as possible, do not hesitate to send us your comments or suggestions, to the following address: [email protected].

Hospices de wine auction makes history On 21 November, Burgundy* celebrated the 150th Wine Auction. The entire vineyard enjoyed the most prestigious charity auction in the world. In fitting with the occasion, the event even witnessed the most amazing bidding in its history, beating the record price paid for the special “Pièce des Présidents” wine barrel (see the section ‘Performance of Burgundy Wines in their Markets’). Everyone involved in this internationally renowned event all played their part in its success, from its president, a delighted Fabrice Luchini (famous French actor), to the merchants who represent the main purchasers, to the organisers: Hospices Civils de Beaune, Christie's, and the Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB), among others. In this upbeat atmosphere, the final increase for all 2010 vintage cuvées put up for sale (643 barrels) was 12.55% for reds and 15.7% for whites. This is a positive sign for the markets, at a time when they are regaining some momentum, as well as a clear vote of confidence in the 2010 vintage, which has been suffering slightly due to comparisons with its 2009 predecessor. But the proof of the pudding is in the eating, and the tastings enjoyed before the auction will certainly have demonstrated the unquestionable qualities of this new vintage, which has a delightfully frank, refreshing fruitiness coupled with a distinctively Burgundian elegance, explaining in part the final increase. In total, the 150th Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction will bring in around 5 million euros.

More generally, Burgundy wines are gradually finding their feet again in the export market, after two difficult years dominated by the financial crisis. Foreign exports increased by 15% in both volume and value in the course of the first eight months of 2010, compared to the same period in 2009. The French market, for its part, remains stable (see Economy, page 3). The 150th auction also highlighted the application for inclusion of Burgundy vineyard “Climats” as a UNESCO world heritage site. Aubert de Villaine, president of the association and co-manager of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, recalled the importance of the project for the entire region. All the big names in Burgundy wine were in attendance together in the Halle de Beaune. *Burgundy is the English translation of the French word Bourgogne 400,000 euros The highlight of the 150th Hospices de Beaune Wine Auction was undoubtedly the smashing of the record price paid for the special “Pièce des Présidents” barrel. Set at 200,000 euros in 2006, it was no less than doubled this year! Jacques Boisseaux and the Maison Patriarche (Beaune) bought the barrel (500 litres of Beaune Premier Cru, cuvée Nicolas Rolin) for 400,000 euros. It was therefore a Burgundy wine merchant, the son of André Boisseaux, a major organiser of the auction for several decades, who won the crowd’s congratulations. The 400,000 euros paid will be split equally between two organisations: cancer charity AVEC (Association pour la Vie, Espoir contre le Cancer) and the French Red Cross, for its work in Haiti.

Indicators Winery sales: +4% by volume (total for 12 months of campaign: July 2010 - Aug 2009)

French supermarket sales: -0.6% by volume +1.6% by value (total for 12 months (mid-August 2010 / mid-August 2009)

Export: +15.3% by volume +16.8% by value (total for 9 months 2010/2009)

Total for 9 months 2010 / 2009

VOLUME VALUE World 15.3% 16.8% United Kingdom 23% 16% USA 20% 22% Belgium 6% 1% Japan 6% 7% Germany -6% -8% Netherlands 2% -1% Canada 15% 25% Denmark 22% 25% Sweden 12% 12% Switzerland 0% 22% Ireland 6% -1% Australia 56% 38% Hong Kong 68% 43% Italy 29% 19% Norway 59% 66% China 52% 69%

Recovery time for Burgundy wines Sales of Burgundy wines, after two difficult years due to the international financial crisis, are back on course. The latest Burgundy wines marketing campaign (August 2009-July 2010) saw a modest but undeniable rise, in a global and national economic context which remains sluggish. The total increase is + 2.5%. This improvement is largely based on exports (+ 5%), which continue to represent a vital element for the Burgundy vineyard, with half of all bottles of Burgundy wine being exported, to some 150 countries. Over a total of 12 months to the end of July 2010, the vineyard marketed the equivalent of more than 182.5 million 75 cl bottles. Winegrowers’ stocks at the end of the campaign were up 10% compared to July 2009, totalling around 196 million bottles, barely representing the equivalent of one year’s production in stock. This is a normal level in Burgundy, especially when we consider the significant harvest volume in 2009 (1.585 million hectolitres) and the average maturing times. Thanks to its quality, the 2009 vintage, which has just begun to go on sale, should be quickly snapped up and support trade in the coming months. The 2010 harvest will not greatly increase stocks, since it is lower in volume than the average Burgundy output (less than the equivalent of 200 million bottles, according to initial estimates). There is every sign, then, that 2011 will be a good year for Burgundy. Modest pick-up in burgundy exports Burgundy wine exports are gradually returning to full health, after two difficult years related to the financial crisis. Exports of Burgundy wines outside France increased by 15% in both volume and value in the course of the first eight months of 2010, compared to the same period in 2009 (52.8 million bottles, amounting to 336.5 million euros). This rise is essentially thanks to white wines (Chablis in particular), exports of which are up by 21%, while exports increased by 3%. Both colours saw a similar increase in terms of value, of around 15%. A significant lag nonetheless remains in comparison to the excellent first eight months of 2008 (-13%). The reputation of the 2009 vintage should support recovery in the coming months. If the trend continues, 2010 may mark a return to normal levels. The vast majority of our export markets are therefore back in positive territory, beginning with our two largest markets, the United Kingdom and the United States. In the USA, the lag has been halved (up 20% for the January-August 2010 period compared to 2009, but still 20% lower than the same period in 2008). In parallel, export growth saw a marked recovery in developing markets during the first 8 months of 2010: +15 to 25% in Scandinavia, +70 to 90% in Asian markets other than Japan (China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, etc.), Brazil and the United Arab Emirates, and +7% in Australia. This upturn can be explained in part by the gradual emergence of many countries from the crisis. The pick-up in shop purchases has led to distributors replenishing their stocks. Another favourable factor has been the positive effect of exchange rates. Within the European Union, it is non-euro zone countries which are contributing to the growth in Burgundy wine exports, above all the United Kingdom, followed by Nordic markets.

Sales of Burgundy wines in France remaining stable In France, household consumption is still fragile. There is some good news however: households are no longer automatically seeking out the cheapest brands and are treating themselves more. A survey conducted by FranceAgriMer in 2010 confirms the decline in wine consumption in France, but now explains this decline by the fact that most French people consume wine on an occasional basis (45% of them). Wine is increasingly associated with celebrations. This development is in fact quite favourable to Burgundy (which remains positioned as a benchmark in terms of festive wines) and explains why the vineyard is stands out as an exception in its ability to maintain performance in the French market. The volume of Burgundy wine sales in supermarkets remains stable (+ 0.1 % by volume), with 33.7 million bottles sold (source: IRI). Although at a slower pace than in the previous campaign, they have continued to increase in value, up 0.6 %, with a turnover of 208.4 million euros. Restaurants: sales are picking up after a very bad year. Activity appears gradually to be resuming in the restaurant sector, which is the distribution network most affected by the financial crisis. A hint of optimism was confirmed by the initial results of the 2010 national survey conducted among French restaurant owners. It reportedly shows that Burgundy has sold around 19.5 million bottles in this network (source: CHD), representing an increase of around 18% year-on-year, which at least serves to compensate for the loss of 13% registered in 2009. In wine shops, on the other hand, the situation is more delicate everywhere, and Burgundy has not been spared: 7.2 million bottles were sold in this circuit in 2009, a volume down by more than 20% year-on-year. Regional AOCs, faced with a highly competitive market, were more badly affected than appellations higher up the range.

Wine tourism in Burgundy: two useful publications to help you discovery the region The 2011 editions of two practical publications, which will make perfect pocket references during your visits to Burgundy, have just been issued: “Bourgognes en Fête” and the “Roadmap to the Wines of Burgundy”. “Bourgogne en Fête 2011” lists around one hundred events promoting Burgundy wines in the heart of the vineyard, and is produced as a bilingual French and English guide. Internet users can also find these events in the diary section of the Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB) website at www.burgundy-wines.fr. The “Roadmap to the Wines of Burgundy 2011” has also just been republished. In addition to details of producers with excellent facilities for welcoming public visitors, the map lists interesting sites, tourist routes, etc. One new feature this year is that services which have recently obtained the “Vignobles et Découvertes” label are now marked with a symbol (see explanation in the article “Three territories in the Burgundy vineyard awarded the “Vignobles et Découvertes” label). These two publications are available from the BIVB and from tourism representatives: tourist offices, regional and departmental tourism committees, hotels and campsites.

“Vins et Tourisme en Bourgogne” application: Discover Burgundy smartphone in hand The application “Vins et Tourisme en Bourgogne”, produced by Proxima Mobile Bourgogne, was officially launched on 2 December. Intended for use on smartphones (iPhone, Android, etc.), it operates via geo-positioning. Tourists will be able to use it to obtain all kinds of information on the appellations they visit (maps, statistics, descriptions, etc.) as they make their way through the vineyard. They can also find information on producers (contact details, opening hours, available wines, etc.), nearby hotels and restaurants, and ongoing wine festivals. It is free to download from the Apple Store for iPhones, under the name “Vins et Tourisme en Bourgogne”. For Android devices, it can be obtained from the site www.vins-tourisme-bourgogne.com. It is to be made available in English in the course of 2011. Developed with the support of the French Secretary of State for Digital Economy Planning & Development and Burgundy Regional Council, ‘Vins et Tourisme en Bourgogne” is the result of a public-private partnership between Burgundy Chamber of Commerce & Industry and agenceNTIC, Bourgogne Tourisme, the Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB), and IT firm Réseau Concept, leading local e-tourism company for the last 15 years.

Three territories in the Burgundy vineyard awarded the “Vignobles et découvertes” label Launched in 2009 by the Conseil Supérieur de l'Oenotourisme (Wine Tourism Council), the “Vignobles et Découvertes” (Vineyards and Discoveries) label is intended to improve visibility among wine destinations in order to reach new customers. It is awarded to a destination and its local services (accommodation, restaurants, cellars, heritage sites, reception structures, events, leisure facilities, etc.), enabling customers to facilitate the organisation of their visit and pointing them towards services of high quality. It was a full sweep for Burgundy, with the 3 applications presented all being selected. The projects in question, “Côte et Haute-Côte de Beaune: the hillsides of Montrachet”, “Côte et Haute-Côte de Nuits: the hillsides of Corton” and “Dijon - Côte de Nuits” obtained the national “Vignobles et Découvertes” label. The three winning Burgundy areas have a combined total of 250 tourism facilities. The 51 cellars awarded the label are identified on the 2011 Roadmap to the Wines of Burgundy.

Burgundies out in force at the “Place des Vins” wine show in Lyon With a target figure of 80,000 visitors from among the 140,000 expected to attend SIRHA (the largest restaurant and hotel trade fair in France), the Place des Vins wine show is intended to highlight the wines of eastern France as well as those of other major French winegrowing regions. About 140,000 sales reps, renowned chefs, sommeliers, wine shops owners and other representatives from the traditional greater Lyon circuit in particular have attended the show in January, 22nd to 26th, 2011 in Lyon. It has been a unique opportunity to meet with 40 producers, wine merchants and cave cooperatives flying the flag for Burgundy, from Chablis to Mâcon,

The BIVB Burgundy stand Events at the BIVB’s stand have highlighted the services and promotions offered by the BIVB (Burgundy Wine Board) to professionals: - Free tasting classes - these classes offer an informative and relaxed way of getting to know Burgundy wines. There are several versions, adapted to suit the different trade profiles: wine shops, restaurant owners, sommeliers, etc. - Promotional materials intended for the main actors in the CHR sector, notably including a preview presentation of the new “Burgundy” wine list holder, given free to all interested restaurant owners.

Maps and documentation: Burgundy wines in translation Widely exported for several centuries, Burgundy wines are continuing to broaden their horizons. In response to interest from wine lovers all around the world, the Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB) translates the documents it publishes into a number of languages.

The general map of the Burgundy vineyard has been made available in English, German, Japanese, Chinese, Danish, Korean, Swedish and Russian.

Two other information documents have been translated: the “Passport to Burgundy Wines” and “The Art of Wine Tasting”. They are available in English (paper version or web download), in German and Chinese (web download). Japanese and Korean versions are in preparation. Discover these documents, along with many others, in the new “Document library” section of the website www.burgundy-wines.fr.

Burgundy wines e-learning programme: Now ready to download This will be one of the major events of 2011. The Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB) has just launched the first e-learning training programme.

Under the name of “A la Découverte des vins de Bourgogne” (Discovering Burgundy wines), the module is now available for downloading from the trade website section (clicking here) and will soon be available on CD-Rom in French and in English. It combines an interactive format (video reports, 360-degree photos, films about the vineyard, quiz) with a wide range of informative and well-documented content, enabling all professionals, whether importers, wine-shop owners or sommeliers, to broaden their knowledge. This is the first time in France that a wine board has provided such a tool. It will be soon available in Chinese, Japanese and Korean.

The Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB) agrees with the Hong Kong authorities to develop the promotion of Burgundy wines in this market The BIVB, together with Burgundy Regional Council and the Regional Chamber of Commerce and Industry, has signed a partnership agreement with the Commerce and Economic Development Bureau of the government of Hong-Kong.

The aim of this agreement is to facilitate exchanges in areas as diverse as visits, exhibitions, trade shows, events, the promotion of wine culture and wine tourism, training, etc.

The BIVB has already organised training seminars attended by over 90 trade representatives and - one for you diaries - a Burgundy week is to be organised in October this year.

News concerning Official Trainers in Burgundy wines James King was accredited as an Official Trainer in Burgundy Wines in 2009. He has since set up his own wine school in Houston: The Texas Wine School. This school is the first independent institution to offer wine training in Houston for individuals and wine professionals.

Each year, the BIVB receives several candidates for the title of Official Trainer in Burgundy wines. Currently, 37 people across the world have been accredited, allowing them to provide training in Burgundy wines in their home country. Do not hesitate to contact them for your tastings, staff training, etc. You can find a list of Official Trainers in Burgundy wines, as well as a map of the countries in which they are located, in the pro section of the website www.burgundy-wines.fr

Save the date: upcoming “Terroirs & Signatures de Bourgogne” tastings On 16 February, the “Terroirs & Signatures de Bourgogne” tasting, organised by the Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB) will be setting up in Stockholm (Sweden), at München Bryggereit. On the agenda: training seminars, tastings and press meetings. www.burgundytasting-se.fr

The Burgundian delegation will also travel on to Finland (15 February) and Norway (17 February) for a Wine Tour in partnership with the Burgundy Chamber of Commerce and Industry (CRCI).

Dates of forthcoming tastings to note in your diaries: New-York, 16 March; Chicago, 17 March (www.burgundytasting-usa.fr); Toronto, 22 March, www.burgundytasting-canada.fr; and Montreal, 24 March (www.degustationbourgogne-canada.fr) and finally in Japan, 23rd May, (degustation www.Bourgogne-japan.fr)

Burgundy 2010: a demanding vintage The 2010 Burgundy vintage is a success, despite the awkward weather conditions. Advanced meteorological forecasting tools, analytical tests and grape sampling were all used to anticipate and determine each of the decisive steps leading up to the harvest.

The small yields obtained are a result of several factors: size checking by the winegrowers, coulure (failure of flowers to turn to fruit) and millerandage (fruit remaining small) caused by the spring weather conditions, and the selection process performed both on the vines and in the cellar. The were then able to adjust their techniques to suit the raw material harvested, bringing out a fine sugar-acid balance without impairing aromatic expression.

The harvest having only ended in late October, it is still too early to describe the wines of this vintage, although a few predominant characteristics can already be perceived.

White wines From northern to southern Burgundy, this vintage’s white wines offer the full pallet of expressions found in a from Burgundy, often imitated, never equalled! These well-balanced wines have enjoyable freshness and purity. Their minerality in the mouth is illustrative of the typicity of Burgundian terroirs, reflecting the elegance and refinement of the great Burgundy classics.

Red wines The olfactory nuances of these red wines bring to mind red berries and fresh fruit. These highly fragrant wines also boast an attractive cherry red colour. In the mouth, they reveal silky tannins and a fine harmony between acidity and roundness. The lasting sensation of freshness perfectly reflects the expression of in Burgundy.

Crémant de Bourgogne The 2010 vintage benefited from fine quality juice from the two grape varieties, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The quality of the grapes enabled gentle extraction, giving base wines with restrained acidities, intense aromatic expression and delightful maturity.

2009 vintage: Magnificent Burgundy In 2009, the vines enjoyed ideal conditions throughout their cycle, in particular during their maturation phase, when they were able to bask in the sun. Sunshine and high temperatures were very much in evidence right through August and September, providing a raw material of exceptional quality, as confirmed in the course of production.

The authentic character of these wines, already apparent just a few months after vinification, was confirmed as the wines began to be bottled. The 2009 vintage is living up to expectations!

Chablisien and Auxerrois white wines Following a rather temperamental blooming period, the harvests extended over almost two weeks, but the excellent climatic conditions assured perfect maturity. Soft and aromatic, these wines have proven to be satisfying and elegant, with good minerality and excellent structure.

Mâconnais white wines With a warm summer and relatively low rainfall, the conditions were perfect for wonderfully mature grapes. These wines are particularly refined, with impressive aromatic qualities. Well balanced and full-bodied, they are already admirable, and also have superb potential to evolve over the coming years, something which is illustrative of a fine vintage.

Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune white wines Like the other vineyards of Burgundy, Côte de Beaune and Côte Chalonnaise experienced highly favourable weather conditions, bringing ideal Chardonnay maturity. Intensely aromatic, generous and soft, these wines are impressively full-bodied and remarkably well balanced. 2009 should justifiably be considered a very fine vintage, not only pleasant when young but with unquestionable potential for laying down.

Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune red wines A superb vintage which will rank among the finest. Excellent grape maturity has produced balanced, ample, powerful wines, with exquisite fruitiness and exemplary smoothness. Their wonderfully rounded tannins make them particularly pleasant and refined, and give them excellent ageing potential.

Côte de Nuits red wines Côte de Nuits has produced magnificent wines in 2009, imbued with aromas of red berries, flowers and black fruit. Enjoying good balance and distinctive substance, they are plump and remarkably persistent on the palate, making them an excellent vintage for laying down.

Crémant de Bourgogne With an early harvest to maintain sufficient acidity and guarantee freshness, the 2009 vintage of Crémants de Bourgogne offers fine structure in the mouth. It contains intense aromatic expression, typical of Burgundy grape varietals, with notes of citrus and white flowers in the Chardonnays and of red fruit in the Pinots Noirs.

What are the Burgundy “Climats” and “lieux-dits”? In 2011, the Burgundy Wine Board (BIVB) has decided to focus its communications on the “Climats” and “lieux-dits” in its vineyard. This theme will be adopted at the “Terroirs & Signatures de Bourgogne” tastings abroad, as well as at the Burgundy pavilion at Vinexpo 2011.

The term “Climat” is unique to Burgundy. It is the Burgundian expression of the notion of “Terroir”. Climats are precisely delimited plots that enjoy particular geological and climatic conditions which, when combined with traditional working practices and translated by the two grape varietals – Pinot Noir for red wines and Chardonnay for whites – have given rise to an extraordinary patchwork of world renowned wines, ranked according to a hierarchy. There are several thousand Climats in Burgundy.

“Climats” through the centuries As early as the 7th Century, certain celebrated wines were already recognized and recorded, such as the “Clos de Bèze” in Gevrey-Chambertin. Over the course of several centuries, the reputation of Burgundy wines spread thanks to the influence of the monks of Cîteaux and later the Dukes of Burgundy. Certain wines, designated by the name of the Climat where they were grown, acquired a reputation that reached beyond French borders, such as Clos de Vougeot and Montrachet. From 1935, the INAO (National Institute of Origin and Quality) made the use of the term “Climat” official and used it in regulatory documents for all Burgundy appellations, whatever their hierarchical ranking.

Some examples of Climats - The Climat “Montrachet”, classified as a Grand Cru and whose territory covers parts of both Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet in the Côte de Beaune - The Climat “Clos du Château de Montaigu”, a Mercurey Premier Cru in the Côte Chalonnaise - The Climat “Ménétrière”, in the Pouilly Fuissé village appellation in the Mâconnais - The Climat “Côte Saint-Jacques”, in the Jovinien, next to the Auxerrois, linked to the regional appellation “Bourgogne”

The term “lieu-dit” Since the creation of the land registry in France, the lieu-dit – literally “place called” – has designated a plot of land whose name evokes a particularity that is usually either topographical or historic. For many years, however, the terms Climat and lieu-dit have been used almost without distinction in Burgundy. Some differences can nonetheless be observed. For example, it is possible to have several lieux-dits within a single Climat, or to have a Climat which covers only part of a given lieu-dit.

Sain-Vincent Tournante du Chablisien Chablisien in February 2011 The next Chablis wines event for wine lovers will be a festive one, since the village is due to host the 44th Saint-Vincent Tournante du Chablisien celebration on 5 and 6 February 2011. The appellation’s wine growers have worked together to come up with a unique cuvée, an assemblage of the different Chablis ‘Climats’. This ‘Cuvée Saint-Vincent’ is intended for the weekend’s tasting. The festivities will begin on Saturday with a gourmet banquet at the foot of the Grands Crus. On Sunday, beginning at 9.00 in the morning, there will be a religious ceremony, a procession, enthronements by the ‘Piliers Chablisiens’ brotherhood, and cellar openings (until 5.00 pm). www.chablis2011.fr

Burgundy occasions: Parma ham wrapped pork Discover the Origin is a programme initiated by the BIVB, the aim of which is to promote Protected Designation of Origin products in the United Kingdom. Burgundy wines have thus teamed up with Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, Parma ham, Port and Douro Valley wines. This partnership has led to the creation of various recipes for which Burgundy wines make a perfect accompaniment.

In this issue, Bourgognes International presents a recipe for “Parma ham wrapped pork”:

Ingredients: 2 pork fillets / 50g finely grated / Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese / Knob of butter / 2 shallots / 50g fresh breadcrumbs / 8 slices of Parma Ham . 1 Savoy cabbage / 2 red peppers

Preparation 1. Preheat the oven to 180oC. Cut the pork fillets in half and tie with butchers string to make it evenly sized. Heat a pan and brown the fillets. Return to fridge to chill. 2. Meanwhile, make the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese crisps. Grate a mound of cheese onto some greaseproof paper and cook in the oven for about 10 minutes until the crisps have melted. Remove from the oven and mould around a wooden spoon while hot to the desired shape. Leave to cool. 3. Finely chop the shallots. Gently fry with a small knob of butter. Cook until soft. Add the breadcrumbs and mix well. Chill. 4. Remove the chilled pork fillets from the fridge. Remove the string. Cover with a thin layer of the onion mixture and wrap in two slices of Parma Ham so they look like a neat parcel. 5. Put the fillets on a baking tray and place in the hot oven. Cook for about 20 minutes, until the pork is cooked through. 6. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for a few minutes before serving. Serve on a bed of steamed cabbage and sliced roasted red peppers and top with your Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese crisp.

This recipe would be a perfect match for a strong, full-bodied Burgundy red wine, such as a Nuits-Saint-Georges for example.

French speakers can visit the food and Burgundy wine pairing website: http://marionsles.vins-bourgogne.fr

Fixin The appellation of Fixin, right next to Gevrey-Chambertin, is adored by lovers of solid Côte de Nuits wines… just like its prestigious neighbour.

It produces what is referred to as a “winter wine”, due to the fact that it is best matured for several years in the bottle. Its bouquet combines floral aromas (violet, peony), fruit (blackcurrant, morello cherry, quince), and animal, musky and peppery notes, as well as a frequent hint of cherry stone. Often tannic and a little hard in its youth, older Fixin offers a well-rounded and lively attack, with solid structure. It is remarkably rich, yet has a delicate texture.

It has a tannic structure which goes well with fine cuts of meat, such as braised pork, well-marbled entrecote steak, chicken stews and variations of curry or tandoori; but its delicate aromas and finish make it equally suitable for more creative pairings with paella, tapas or spring rolls. As far as cheese is concerned, it is just as suited to the subtlety of a Chaource, the fruitiness of a Comté or the powerful flavours of an Epoisses.

Recognised since 1936, the Fixin appellation is divided between Village and Premier Cru wines. Its production is largely red (Pinot Noir) but it also has a few plots of white Chardonnay grapes (just 3%). An average of 600,000 bottles are produced every year, a sixth of them Premier Cru, on a surface area of around 100 hectares.

Some 70 estates sell the AOC, although the top ten account for 50% of marketed volume. A third of the appellation is sold via Burgundy wine merchants.

Domaine Guyon in Vosne-Romanée adds a Grand Cru to its range Based in Vosne-Romanée, Jean-Pierre and Michel Guyon cultivate a shared plot of 31.29 ares in Clos Vougeot. These vines are notable for containing stocks which are more than ninety years old. The Guyon brothers are well acquainted with this plot, ideally located in the middle of the “clos”, having managed it since 1999 on behalf of Maison Moillard. Their first vintage under their own name will be the 2010, joining Les Echezeaux on their list of appellations.

Mercurey appellation creating public reception facilities Mercurey producers have begun the construction of a top-of-the-range tasting cellar. Around thirty winegrowers have joined together to co-finance the renovation of the Duhesme cellar, situated in the centre of the village, and the provision of a by-the-glass wine dispenser with a system for preserving bottles using nitrogen.

Each involved will be able to present two vintages. Wine lovers will be having the option of tasting a glass of any of the wines on offer, and will then be able to buy bottles of these wines at sale price.

An employee is to be recruited on a full-time basis to manage and promote this cellar. It will be open seven days a week in season and will offer the opportunity to discover, in one single location, the full diversity of Mercurey appellation wines.

The cellar, representing an overall investment of 150,000 euros, is due to open its doors in 2011.

The Bret Brothers are now a trio Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret have now been joined by their brother Marc-Antoine (30) in the business. Multi-talented, just like his two older brothers, he is equally knowledgeable on wines and vines. On the commercial side of things, he is more specifically in charge of relations with professionals in the French market. In parallel, construction work on a new vat room has begun, which will double the available surface area. The aim is not just to produce higher quantities, but to prolong wine maturation times to give them greater complexity. In total, the Bret brothers currently produce 70,000 bottles per year (30,000 Soufrandière and 40,000 Bret Brothers). With this extension, they are aiming for a total of 100,000 bottles per year, both activities taken together.

New departure for Samuel Billaud Samuel Billaud (39) has just set up a wine merchants under his own name. With almost 20 years of experience on his family’s estate (Domaine Billaud-Simon in Chablis), he intends to use his expertise to develop his own wines. He will be spending the entire winter in the brand new vat room set up in La Chapelle Vaupelteigne, perfecting his first five cuvées: two Chablis, a Chablis Premier Cru Mont-de-Milieu, a Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre, and a Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos. They will be sold in France and internationally from spring 2011.

Romanée-Conti now online Burgundy’s most famous wine estate, Romanée-Conti, has now opened a website. Its design reflects the renowned estate’s simple, refined graphics. Among the available sections, visitors will find a chronological history of the estate, placed side-by-side with a history of France from the 11th to the 21st century. There is also a page providing access to descriptions of the harvesting conditions for each vintage since 1996. A mission statement outlines the working philosophy held by the estate, under the direction of its co-manager Aubert de Vilaine. Well worth a visit: www.romanee-conti.fr Press review - Wine Spectator The November issue features a buying guide, part of which is devoted to Burgundy wines from Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits and Mâconnais. - Decanter: The December issue includes an extensive feature on “wines of the year” with reviews of Chablis 1er Cru 2008, Meursault 2007 and Gevrey-Chambertin 2007 wines. Another article is devoted to Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet 2008 wines. - Revue du Vin de France: Special issue no. 19 of this magazine presents an extensive feature on the 450 best wines tasted in 2010, including several Burgundy appellations among the list.

Lebanon - Ziad Mouawad and his “Burgundy” adventure in Beirut Mr. Mouawad was formerly a doctor in Lyon, but always had a passion for wine. This passion became more refined, and soon focussed on Burgundy wines, until he found himself with two jobs: doctor from Monday morning to Thursday evening and wine seller at Les Halles in Lyon from Friday morning to Sunday afternoon. Then, meeting a man from Lebanon tipped the balance so far that Ziad gave up medicine completely in order to open a Burgundy-themed restaurant and wine bar in Beirut.

How did your plan for a restaurant in Beirut come about? Basically, the idea was to persuade people who did not know about Burgundy to come and taste it. So we decided to open a wine cellar, then we decide we should allow people to sample wine here, we should open a few bottles, and we finally moved towards the idea of a wine bar. However, we don’t do things by halves, so we brought in a Michelin-star chef, then seven more chefs to help him, we spruced up the decor, bought in lots of supplies, and opened a restaurant. With a wine list featuring only Burgundy wines, the name was easy to find: Le Burgundy.

How is the market for Burgundy wines in Lebanon? A few rare wine shops had begun to import Burgundy wines into Lebanon, but only offered wines from one or two producers. Le Burgundy is the first establishment in Lebanon to be completely dedicated to Burgundy wines, with more than 400 different kinds. There is also a cellar next to the restaurant, so customers can come here to buy their wines.

How would you describe consumers in Lebanon? There are two categories of customer. Firstly, the connoisseurs, well-informed wine-lovers who know more than you do! The fact that we called the restaurant “Le Burgundy” enables them to come directly to our restaurant to find what they’re looking for. Then there are wine-lovers who do not know Burgundy very well, or not at all. They look for other French appellations, but not Burgundy. But, once in the restaurant, they have no other choice, they can either drink Burgundy wine or no wine! They often make wonderful discoveries and their prejudices disappear. Lots of our guests are Lebanese, but we also receive customers from other countries (Saudi Arabia, Dubai, Qatar, etc.) who come to Lebanon in search of what they can’t find in their own countries. Previously, they had to travel to France to enjoy their favourite appellations, but now they can drink them in Lebanon.

What form does sommelier training take in Lebanon? There are no sommeliers in Lebanon, strictly speaking. Restaurant staff are generally trained by the wholesalers who supply the hotels and restaurants. In my own case, I recruited several waiters and trained some of them in Burgundy wines.

What are your next plans involving Burgundy? In Lebanon, the country is too small to do very much. We would like to roll out the concept of the “Le Burgundy” restaurant, but we don’t want to lose this Burgundian aspect. We don’t want to create a franchise. If we were to do so, we would do everything we could to maintain the vital relationship between the winegrowers and the restaurant owner.

The Burgundy odyssey: advice for a wine-tourism trip in the vicinity of Fixin Fixin is located at the foot of the Burgundy hillside region, 13 kilometres south of Dijon and 30 kilometres from Beaune, on the RD 974. Arriving from the north, it is one of the first Côte de Nuits stops on the Grands Crus Route.

A brief history…

A tour in the village to discover Fixin’s heritage: - Fixey church (10th, 11th and 12th centuries) – a Roman church listed as a historic monument - Fixey communal oven: an oven dating back more than 500 years, fully restored in 1974 - The wash house: built in 1827, it is fed by the Chaulois mineral water spring. - Fixin church: established in 1172 and rebuilt in 1453. Its lava-stone roof was renovated in 2005 - Perrière manor: 12th century residence used by the monks of Cîteaux until 1622

And lastly, don’t leave without visiting the museum of the Société Viticole Rurale Traditionnelle (traditional rural winemaking association) in Marsannay-La-Côte, where you can learn about the daily lives of winegrowers in the late 19th century and the importance of wine production to the local economy.

… And a breath of fresh air!

Leaving from Parc Noisot, three paths of different lengths will introduce you to the wonders of the exceptional site of Fixin valley and allow you to discover a rich variety of landscapes. A number of information panels all along the paths provide details of the flora, fauna and natural phenomena to be found here. The valley ends at a rock face, the “end of the world”. A set of steps referred to as the Cent Marches (hundred steps) were built in 1840 in honour of the Hundred Days, the period when Napoleon returned to power between the first and second Restoration in 1815.

Accommodation: stay with winegrowers who are members of the ‘De Vignes en Caves’ quality charter. Here are a few bed and breakfasts and gîtes close to Fixin:

Domaine Naddef Philippe 30, route des Grands Crus 21220 FIXIN Tel. 03 80 51 45 99 E-mail: [email protected] www.bourgogne-naddef.com Contact: Mr. Philippe Naddef

Caveau St-Vincent – Maison Defrance 38-50, route des Grands Crus 21220 FIXIN Tel. 03 80 52 84 67 E-mail: [email protected] www.michel-defrance.fr Contact: Mr. Michel Defrance

Domaine du Château de Marsannay Route des Grands Crus - BP 78 21160 MARSANNAY-LA-COTE Tel. 03 80 51 71 11 E-mail: [email protected] www.chateau-marsannay.com Contact: Mrs. Véronique Marnata

For further information, see our wine tourism section at: www.vins-bourgogne-tourisme.fr (www.burgundy-wines-tourism.fr) See the appellation map on the website at: www.burgundy-wines.fr