destination: Papua New Guinea A voyage through Papua New Guinea Often skipped for being too remote Katie Thomsen reminds us of the adventure on our doorstep. Where to next? Jim and I had sailed across the One week, another life away South Pacific, spent two seasons in New Zealand Five days and 1,100 kilometres after leaving Cairns and Vanuatu and were in Australia. we reach Panasia in the Louisiade Archipelago, From this point, most crews head north to 200 kilometres southeast of the mainland. ‘Pana’ Darwin, join a rally to sail through the red means ‘island’ in the local language, ‘sia’ means tape of Indonesia and continue on to Malaysia, ‘rock’. It describes the island well. Singapore or Thailand. There they can circle Limestone peaks tower above the shimmering back to Australia, continue sailing west to South blue water while dense bush clings to all but the Africa or ship their boat into the Mediterranean. steepest walls. Palm trees shade the sandy beach We are not big on rallies and exploring in the crook that forms the protected anchorage. new places with dozens of other boats to see We go ashore to meet the family living in a traditional life staged for our benefit appeals house made of narrow logs and woven pandanus to us even less. We are not sure how to proceed leaves and ask permission to anchor. John and until friends suggest sailing through the remote Gwen say to stay as long as we would like and islands of Papua New Guinea. Although PNG has give us four crayfish as a welcoming gift. a reputation for violence, they assure us these Very few people live on Panasia. Many more stops will be safe. live fifteen kilometres across the lagoon on Papua New Guinea. The name conjures up Brooker, called Utian Island on our charts. They images of fierce warriors, headhunters and have gardens on Panasia and travel between the cannibals dressed in paint, jute, feathers and two on traditional sailing canoes called ‘sailaus’. shells living in huts deep in the jungle. What A visiting boat means trading opportunities would these isolated islands be like? and a marvelous cornucopia passes across 58 March 2016 Tenaya’s deck during the ten days we are there. His rules? Do not steal things from boats, offer MAIN: Hex is a large We trade sugar, rice, flour, fish hooks, rope, glue, to trade if you want something, do not ask for too sailau and can hold fabric, sewing supplies and reading glasses for much, do not let your canoe touch the sailboats, 20 people. delicious pawpaws (papayas), bananas, yams, and be polite. potatoes, pumpkins, green coconuts, limes, eggs, Milia and Grace have four children. Noino and TOP: Coconut crabs are plentiful lobster, baskets, clay pots and beautiful shells. Julie are both pastors. Toby is an administrator in Ninigo. How do they transport fresh eggs on a leaking, at the school. Ishmael is the ward councillor. All bouncing sailing canoe? To my surprise, Linda visit Tenaya and tell us stories of their struggles ABOVE: This WWII digs out six chicken eggs and one bush fowl egg and accomplishments. Through their insightful Japanese Zero is from a bowl full of sand. ideas and intelligent questions, we learn they in shallow water off Clothing tops the list of requests. Why the are working hard to improve their lives and give Nivani Island. early missionaries convinced people living in their kids the best education they can afford. the tropics to wear modest western apparel is We get to know many others on Panapompom beyond me. There are no stores here and it does and hear their stories. Neal and Martin worked not appear anyone makes regular clothes drops. in the mine on Misima before it closed. Abel The people are at the mercy of passing yachts Luwamai and Abel George were both teachers and our bundles from St. Vinnies are soon gone. on the mainland and came back to enjoy their Cruisers can thank Milia for the warm and retirement here. gracious welcome we receive at Panapompom, Julie is the head teacher at the elementary an island 50 kilometres north of Panasia where school. She wishes there was enough money for sailing canoes are built. He instilled the culture each child to have a simple desk to keep their of locals respecting visitors and their boats. notebooks off the dirt floor. March 2016 59 destination: Papua New Guinea 1 2 3 1. Playing in the sand Wendy is involved with the women’s fellowship The anchorage is calm, wifi is available, people at Luf in the Hermit along with Alice, Elsie and Lidia. Kids run to are friendly, diving is spectacular and the resort Islands. help with the dinghy each time we go ashore. has a bar and restaurant. They stay with us until an adult worries they are Dorothy works in the kitchen. Her father carves 2. Sailau tied to bothersome and chases them away. the evocative masks displayed in the restaurant Tenaya at Panasia. We spend two weeks anchored in the lagoon and invites us to meet him. We like Bruno 3. The village of Luf between uninhabited Nivani and Panapompom Mondo’s quick wit and quirky art. When he offers at Hermit Islands. Islands. Word spreads that Jim can fix sewing to whittle a face with a long tongue especially for machines and that we are willing to help. us, I am thrilled and give him a big hug. 4. John named his Tenaya is a veritable workshop carrying tools On the way back from Panakondo village we walk sailing canoe after and supplies the locals do not have. In the past along the shore introducing ourselves to those we his kids. they produced copra but now the prices are meet. Our story goes something like this: “Hello, we very low. They collected beche-de-mer but that are Jim and Katie from the yacht. We are Americans 5. It’s a start but is banned for five years to counteract over- but sailed from Europe. The yacht is our home. We Jim still does not harvesting and allow for recovery. Because live on it all the time. For seven years now. Thank completely fit in on they need ‘kina’ to pay school fees, parents sell you for letting us park our home in your bay.” Nusalik Island. intricately carved wooden spears, detailed model They ask questions about us, we ask questions 6. The Japanese ‘sailaus’ and lovely baskets. about them. We invite them to visit and learn we Zero is just off the are the first to do so. They are pleased and assure beach at Nivani Kavieng us that Tenaya is safe. No harm will come to her. Island, get in It is a five day, 1,200 kilometre passage north Even in town, people are nice. Many say hello the water! from Panapompom to Kavieng at the tip of New before we do. When Jim asks about buying 300 Ireland. We could have stopped at Budibudi litres of diesel, Malcolm says he will find a boat Atoll which has a safe anchorage and welcoming and bring out a 200 litre drum with a pump and people, but we kept going. cans holding the remaining fuel. He does not For safety reasons we passed by Kokopo and trust Jim with his glass pump. checked in at Kavieng. The plan was to refuel, He comes the next morning and is happy to restock and be on our way in a few days. We be invited aboard for a cold Coke. He has never stayed three weeks. seen the inside of a yacht before. 60 March 2016 destination: Papua New Guinea 4 5 6 Dorothy’s husband offers betelnut to Jim. He We head for Carola Bay and choose the forgets to tell my adventurous husband to keep strongest looking mooring. It is very close to a the mustard seed, which is dipped in lime (the reef. No sooner have we strung our lines through mineral, not the fruit), away from his tongue and it than a squall hits and blows over 25 knots. I only poke it into the pulp wedged into his cheek. hunker down at the bow in pelting rain watching Jim’s tongue hurts the rest of the night but it is the line and our position to shore to be sure we red like the locals’ and he is happy. do not blow down on the reef. The next morning two women in their twenties paddle out to greet us. Lorraine teaches at the When we leave for the last time primary school and Baxter runs the dispensary. Jayne says, “Mi lukin yu no mo.” They arrange for Matthew to fill our fuel cans in Manus and he returns them two days later. Tears well in my eyes. Manus is not a safe place for yachties to stop. People give us the sweetest pawpaw, mangos, Each time we part company we say, “Mi lukin pineapples, bananas and oranges we have ever yu behaen,” ‘I’ll see you later’ in pidgin. When we tasted and ask for basic food items in return. leave for the last time Jayne says, “Mi lukin yu no Frieda tells us that big rats from a Malaysian mo.” Tears well in my eyes. fishing boat are ravaging their gardens so we It is a three day trip from Kavieng to the accept only what we know we can eat. Hermit Islands. They are surrounded by an I tell Baxter and Lorraine about my failed outer reef and the island of Luf, our destination, attempt to bake cassava.