EPIC CRUISES KARIMUNJAWAPAPUA NEW GUINEAVENEZUELA NORMANDIESprayATLANTIC COASTTAHITIALASKA 3 ISLANDS, PORTS, SEAS RARE PHOTOS OF GB’S EARLY YEARS NEW ALEUTIAN: OUR BIGGEST YET +GB YACHTING IDEAS & INSPIRATIONS ZEUS! NEW MODEL, SUCCESS STORIES

ANNUAL PRINT EDITION, 2011 Official Magazine for Grand Banks Owners & Enthusiasts 54033-SprayMag.indd 1 1/18/11 10:10:13 AM Jonathan Cooper Jonathan David Hensel David Photographer Designer Producer Writer Spray Happy Cruising, (or not) your may journey be… so weAnd celebrate here the thedream,achievement. theeffort, However epic We’re working hard itseems, while dreaming to all make big, those dreams reality. today.industry and makeseize opportunities moves, bold despite thedeepchallenges facing our plans and buyers. forGBowners Atourfactories and offices,theycontinue to newyachtsGrand with keep and people programs Banks pushing and forward, andAleutian RP thebig newflagship 76RP. acrossIn fact, departments here all at ourdreams.follow There were newmodels to launch, like the much-lauded 53 it’sAnd here else at Grand stopped Banks like everything notexactly so we could was an epicchallenge forus nonetheless. had oran endeavor inmind, equalto anythinghave these owners off. But it pulled Okay, so publishing alarger, lengthier magazine may what Thoreau exactly notbe mightlong last? those opportunities Who knows how Thoreau and make putit, inlife. themost oftheiropportunities motivated by theirdetermination by theircapacity to todeep,” thinkbig, “live as awe and admiration theremarkable ofall seen and done. things We they’ve were and meetat rendezvous and boatyear, shows every leave theoneswho us in But we were inspired about we write owners to goforward—inspiredby thevery of Spray A fewmonths ago, we first when had thedream ofcreating abigger,better edition dreams? dreamers those silly impractical would and theirgrand, we without be Where dream reality. To make that epiccruise. then, despite thereasons all to theydecided itoff and sittight, shrug to make that enteredwaypoints onthechartplotter, someone whopper ofadream—andhad a That’sBefore how epicjourneys start. any dates were marked on a calendar, or Dream big. FROM THEEDITORS , we feltthat also temptation to shake itoff and stick to business as usual.

3 “TWENTY YEARS FROM NOW, YOU WILL BE MORE DISAPPOINTED BY THE THINGS YOU DID NOT DO THAN BY THE THINGS YOU DID DO. SO, THROW OFF THE BOWLINES. 08 EPIC CRUISES SAIL AWAY FROM Stories and photos from GB journeys the world over, from Alaska to SAFE HARBOR. the Atlantic Coast, South America to the South Pacific and beyond. EXPLORE. DREAM. DISCOVER.” {08} KARIMUNJAWA {18} SOUTH AMERICA {32} U.S. INTRACOASTAL WATERWAY {MARK TWAIN} {42} PAPUA {54} INSIDE PASSAGE TO ALASKA

68 THREE ISLANDS • THREE PORTS • THREE SEAS Splitting the channel Itineraries and accounts from three amazing cruising areas—Normandy, British Columbia, Canada the “Med” and Tahiti—designed to inspire your next voyage. Photo / Jonathan Cooper Spray84 GB CHARTER: RESOURCES & RECOMMENDATIONS A selection of charter options in new and exotic destinations, plus tips on making the most of your charter experience from Brian Pemberton of NW Explorations.

88 A LEGEND GROWS Introducing GB’s new flagship 76 Aleutian RP.

95 GB YACHTING: MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR CRUISE Top picks for things to do and see in your Grand Banks, plus a look at great new gear.

114 TRADITION SHAPES THE FUTURE An amazing look back at the earliest days of American Marine in Hong Kong, plus an homage to the great wooden boats built there.

124 PROOF POSITIVE: ZEUS TWO YEARS LATER Two years in, we take a look at the track record of Zeus-powered models around the world—plus maintenance recommendations for owners with Zeus drives on board.

130 ESSENTIALLY EQUIPPED A roundup of tools that every owner should have on board.

136 COMPANY NEWS Updates from GB and our Authorized Dealers around the world.

GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 03 Lightning strikes at daybreak Sebana Cove, Johor, Malaysia

Photo / Jonathan Cooper

SHARE YOUR STORIES MORE ONLINE Spray would not be possible without the contribution of Go to grandbanks.com/spray for additional features and articles and story ideas from GB owners—like Glenn & Eddie content that accompany this issue. You will also find a digital Tuttle (“Cruising Heaven”) and John Armati (“Exploring the version of this magazine, plus a large archive of Spray and SprayLouisiades”). Please share your stories for the next issue of American Marine News back issues. Spray by submitting articles, ideas, photos, blog links, bent

props and other inspirations to [email protected]. DIGITAL SPRAY: MORE ISSUES Spray magazine is published once a year in print and mailed SPECIAL THANKS to GB owners; distributed at GB Authorized Dealers, boat @ Grand Banks Yachts: Fran Morey, Toni Profitt shows and rendezvous events; and is available by request and Tessa Christensen from our web site. We also publish two additional issues @ CMD: Aimee Nagy and Richard Newman throughout the year in a digital, e-zine format for reading on your computer or mobile device. To receive your e-subscription @ Cicchetti: to Chris Bellenbacher to our digital issues, please register online at grandbanks. serafinaseattle.com/cicchetti – delicious! com/spray. And for any subscription inquiries, print or digital, @ Bonnier Corporation: Ed Baker, George Sass, Jr., and please email [email protected]. Chrisopher White for their invaluable help and support. The next round is on us, guys. FIND US ON FACEBOOK

Spray was designed, developed, written, edited, hashed, If you like Grand Banks Yachts, come “Like” us on Facebook rehashed and produced by, and is a product of the resolute and stay up to date with news from Grand Banks and GB efforts and indefatigable attentions of: owners around the world: facebook.com/grandbanks

DAVID HENSEL & JONATHAN COOPER

(Jonathan also shot a whole mess of photos for this issue, made his own batches of falernum [see page 105] and mixed drinks when we got thirsty.)

© 2011 Grand Banks Yachts Selected material © 2011 Bonnier Corporation. Photos and selected content for gear shown on pages 99, 103, and 107 courtesy of Yachting Published by Bonnier Corporation in cooperation with Grand Banks Yachts.

Elisabeth, a 42 Heritage CL, discovers this Indonesian paradise

Islands Out of Time: Karimunjawa Far from traditional Balinese and Asiatic routes, this archipelago made up of 27 islands hosts a luxurious and exclusive resort and offers a very dif- ferent image of Indonesia from the traditional touristy one.

TEXT & PHOTOS / MARCO CASIRAGHI

KARIMUNJAWA 09 ou fly into the Karimunjawa archipelago aboard a Kura Nowadays, they are also sailed by Elisabeth, a Grand Banks 42 of the archipelago: Karang Kapal and Karang Besi (Katang). Besi with its own dazzling lagoon and strip of sand. Three miles further Kura Aviation Cessna 402 B or 172 from Semarang Classic based at the Italian-designed Kura Kura luxury resort on is a spectacular four-kilometre-wide lagoon, a favourite refuge of north lies the island of Bengkoang, renowned for both its turquoise airport in Central Java. Your baggage allowance is a the island of Menyawakan. Elisabeth’s 120-mile Karimunjawa young trigoni marmorati and an occasional rendezvous point for lagoon and the variety of coral in its southern barrier. The health of paltry 10 kg but, realistically, you won’t be needing itinerary follows the southeasterly summer monsoon, which is dry whale sharks. The latter come there from the Indian Ocean and the coral throughout the archipelago is monitored by the Wildlife Yany more than that. It takes 25 minutes to get to the 27 deliciously and fairly moderate, blowing between June and October. It takes have been spotted several times by Renato Ticozzi, dive master and Conservation Society, by the way. unspoiled coral islands. They are now a national park encompassing in five inhabited islands, 21 coral lagoons with plenty of cool palm manager of the Kura Kura Diving Center. A westerly route takes Elisabeth to the volcanic isle of Parange a protected marine area extending 35 nautical miles and lie in the trees to doze under and the limestone Gundul rock, home to terns, Embarkation is at the Kura Kura Resort’s private marina at which is ringed by four miles of reef. Its traditional village and its strait separating Borneo (Kalimantan) from Java. Very few islands sea swallows, cormorants and frigate birds. Very little has changed Menyawakan right in the middle of the archipelago. A fist of sand 500 inhabitants all cluster in the most sheltered part of the lagoon. in the area have remained so remote and traditional. Nothing much in the area except for the introduction of a certain subtle form of about 1,500 metres in circumference, it is surrounded by a coral A line of traditional and highly decorative Madurese-style prahu has changed along the Karimunjawa routes once plied by Joseph tourist facility aimed at travelers keen to avoid the busier routes. reef with 22 hectares of towering palms and a few mangroves. There soppè fishing boats bob at a floating jetty outside it. There are Conrad aboard Celestial and Vidar. There are two semi-submerged atolls at the very south-western end are 19 villas with pools and 19 cottages. Nearby is Cemara Besar also local catamarans known as prahu kelang which have bamboo

text continues on page 15

KARAMUNJAWA 11 One of the traditional outrigger fishing A portrait of an inhabitant of the archipelago boats on the island of Sambangan of Karimunjawa between Java and Borneo

KARIMUNJAWA 13 KARIMUNJAWA 5 of theharbour inalong lineinto theJava they stream Atsundown, wharf. out ferry tied upalongside themosque and thelocal traditional prahu soppèboats are which However, with bristles still the port oftheactivity.focus andof Karimunjawa itremains thecentral side of the islandswamps on the northern inthe mangrove experimentally farmed products.and food The seaweed was first to Java forprocessing and use incosmetic where sendKarimunjawa wholesalers iton ashore, beforedry being transported to wooden canoes. It then is spread out to the seaweedhome. They harvest intheir sheltered lagoon 4-mile surrounding their inhabitants seaweed farm inthe well- southwest. oftheisland’s Almost all 2,000 however, further at just Nyamuk, alittle There are quite different fishing traditions, out theirnets. thefishermenlet fromstructures which the annual monsoonand fishing season. •• that with timedto is symbolically coincide are thefinal phase oftheoperation. Aphase theboats give which back and soul, theirlife Thedecorations,the surface ofthehulls. the traditional done they caulkingscorch is await high tide to beach theirprahu.Before archipelago, theGenting ship’s carpenters outermosteast, at thevery limits ofthe waves and sea urchins. Fifteenfurther miles mantadolphins, rays,fish, herons, flying boat stylized decorated is with individually Sea, in a spectacular display of colour. Each 3 1 4 2 5 4 3 2 1 waters makeforidealexploration. Opposite: Beautifulsealifeandclear the region. ofalocalinhabitant Another portrait tropical vegetation. ‘Prahus’ ashorewithabackgroundoflush Exapnses ofbleach-whitebeaches. Traditional vesseloftheregion.

17 The port of Parang Island with the traditional, decorated prahus Maxwell and Grand Banks Recognised icons of the inteRnational maRine maRket

maXWell hoRizontal Windlass installed aBoaRd gRand Banks’ 72 aleUtian

• Traditional and timeless design. hWVc3500 • Dependable performance. • Built to last.

Three essential elements of a proven partnership spanning thirty years.

hWc3500 www.maxwellmarine.com KARIMUNJAWA Glenn and Eddie Tuttle have been cruising on their GB46 for 17 years. A full account of their voyages could fill this entire magazine—here are some excerpts from their Caribbean journals. CRUISINGHEAVEN TEXT & PHOTOS / GLENN & EDDIE TUTTLE

CRUISING HEAVEN 19 CRUISING HEAVEN Approaching the anchorage, we heard someone yelling at us from anchorageOur first bay was inabeautiful Bahia called Manare. havefishermen stumbled onlong-forgotten treasures. and naturalrocks caves. According to local rumor, several lucky hideaway forpirates would stash who theirtreasures among the outof the incredibly deepwater.rising The area was apopular spectacularwith scenery, including huge rock formations oddly The deepand protected route to Mochima National Park filled is owed by huge mountains that dozens offjords. form ofmiles anchorages,dozens beaches, ofwonderful and bays overshad –all - eastMochima30 miles National Cruz, ofPuerto La Park offers lar anchorages aday’s and beaches within ofourmarina. Just trip One ofthegreat inVenezuela things about cruising thespectacu is Mochima National Park before making extensive cruising plans. ] range voyages—regardless the destination—to check with travel advisories dangerous in countries the world. We recommend to anyone planning long- [Editor’s note: itshould benoted that today Venezuela isamong the more VENEZUELA Y safe at anchor, but that’s not what ships are for, isit? Aves, Bonaire and other destinations. Someone said that aship is Motor Yacht – including excursions to Tortuga, Los Las Roques, many lovely offshore islands aboard Tothill, our Grand 46 Banks nearly three years. During our time in Venezuela, we took trips to So we ended up doing exactly what our friends did and stayed diesel fuel was ridiculously inexpensive. people super friendly, the food great, and everything from beer to andwas fun. The different, marina was wonderful, exciting, the an adventure: the language, the customs, the people, everything Venezuela La Cruz, Puerto ourselves. From the first day itwas boat in exotic places”). Then,in August of2003,we arrived in in your boat (although some define cruising as“working on your so long. all, cruising After issupposed to be about traveling around and why cruisers could take up residence in amarina and stay for I always wondered about that, secretly questioning how the country somuch they ended up staying several years. ears ago, friends ofours cruised to Venezuela and loved - to letus know. boy Coco! Good heard agroup ofgreen parrots squawking andheneeded decided source irritation. ofhis We were relieved to determine that hehad What’s Cautiously, this? upwith to Igotoutofbed investigate the Havanese, started barking and scampering around thedecks. about Coco 4:00a.m., Bear,Early onemorning, ourBichon delicious meat- empanadas orchicken-filled onthestreet corner. thatily alittle owns open-air restaurant her cooks where the owner to During the our town,visits we a fam have- with friends become theheavy boats wooden construct fishing as pirogues. known who The small pueblo ofMochima hometo is several boat builders and theareadolphin, hometo is parrots, seabirds, and hawks. wild The waters surrounding the park are teeming of schools with anchoring inremote areas, and feltmore inagroup. comfortable worked butwe always Everything outwell, are fun. carefulwhen we were while just there havingmakeguys by fishing, their living it was best notto these besides, make thefishermen; enemies with boatsdents ofcruising being boarded by bandits inthese waters, so fortheevening. Theredropped ourhooks have beenseveral- inci minutes ofnegotiations, moved we all to thefar sideofthebay and were afraid that we After several would interfere their fishing. with are lookouts into tothat spot offish swim thebay; schools they wooden to pirogue inthemountaintop The explain. guys shack from thecampSoon enough,onthebeach fishermen came ina so what was theproblem? anchoring was permitted, was since ofthe this National part Park, a bluerag and screaming something to us inSpanish. We knewthat vocal men wavingmountain very was alittle two tin-roof hut with the nearbySure mountain enough, way cliffs. uponthetop ofthe We obviously didn’t know theright places to gavehuge butfinally reef, upafter sighting onlyonebaby lobster. We spent the better for lobsters of the afternoonpart diving on the won theWorld Series. diversion playing is baseball, and several were interested inwho markets to theysell thefish which inPLC. It appeared theirmain andtime. dive thereefs They forgrouper, fish snapper and lobster, the hard-workingat home for weeks which a call island, fishermen sand beaches. There are several camps fishing located around the you were clear intheBahamas water thecrystal with and white near-perfect horseshoe. If you didn’t know better, you would think The anchorage inTortuga protected well is beaches forming with a to getaway from land and enjoy theclear blueCaribbean waters. pretty (mahi nicedolphin notFlipper). mahi, It was anicefeeling a was ontheboat fish about anfirst hourafter the dock, we left reels. We even rounded upafewfrozen to balihoo use as bait. Our days and lubricated Ipolished before rods thetrip and ourfishing forseveralseveral onboard, ourmain objective friends was fishing; Tortuga With located is Cruz. ofPuerto La north about 60miles Tortuga This page, clockwise from top: This page, clockwise Colombia) enjoyingtheirislandjewel. Spread:First is theoneonleft Islands; Theboysrelaxinaquietanchorage(intheSanBlasIslands)-Coco clearwatersintheSanBlas Snorlking aroundatinyislandinthecrystal molas forEddietobuy;spotsem,Igrabwebotheatem!; Latin America ... the people; A Kuna Indian woman proudly displays her

Young barebackridersonthebeach(inSanAndresIsland,

One ofthemanyreasonswhyweloved week, we countedweek, over 50boats that braved the20to 30knot from Caracas. family wonderful Despite theblusteryweather that a neardrop with us, made and theirhooks quickly newfriends age. We to similar were to ours other GBs very see surprised two With each passing day, more and more boats intheanchor arrived Santa. Semana enough to make from themainland thetrip had thesame plan for we didn’tWhat realize Venezuelan that is every aboat large with ahalf-dozen other boatsfind clear anchored waters. inthecrystal atmospherethe party ofourmarina. We to friends with arrived headed ofTortuga forthequiettranquility inan attempt to escape Once, duringSemana Santa (the Holy week preceding Easter), we lobsters fordinner, and made amental note to buymore cigarettes. and negotiated atrade. Soon we were cleaning acoupleofbeautiful packs ofyear-oldin theCaribbean, outtwo we pulled Marlboros been told ofhaving thebenefits cigarettes cruising onboard while to outtheywanted figure to trade lobsters forcigarettes. Having smoke a cigarette the other. with You don’t need to speak Spanish several young holding lobsters guys inoneandhand, pretending to to eating spaghetti oneofthem approached that evening, with and lobsters. fish nice-sized Just we had when resigned ourselves several boats wooden fishing look: returned that afternoon with -

23 CRUISING HEAVEN cruisers aboardcruisers boats. theirown There are so many different Not too except Los Roques, water many visit Americans truck. since there onlyonemotor is vehicleand that’s ontheisland, the The town ofGrand has Roque onlysand right roads, all is which beaches.pristine butwefrom doing made much snorkeling, upforitby enjoyingthe no catching lobsters hunters, orconch.As that kept Eddie and me (except aspecial forbonefish), ahand-line, permit orwith with and aVenezuelan is Los Roques nationalallowed is nofishing park; already dazzling scene. overheadclouds take onapretty green adding tint, to beauty an tal clear water. The shallow so reefs much sunlight reflect that the miles) ofreefs, sandy collection amagnificent islands, and is crys areaislands The and reefsas Los Roques. whole known (14x25 From Tortuga, itwas an easy passage 85-mile to thegroup of Los Roques apart onthejagged coral. of theirpersonal belongings before theboat was completely torn ofanotherhelp boat from England theymanaged to salvage most accurateis to are thecharts about notaccurate. 10feet, With the to lead them into the anchorage at night. the GPS system Although made themistake ofrelying onelectronic and charts aGPSsystem at One, nightketch, abrand hitthereef new50-plus-foot and sank. one month duringourstay, sailboats different making landfall two surrounding reefs are treacherous lethally miscalculated. if In just TortugaAlthough it’s benignwith looks world-class beaches, the and 8to seas 10foot winds to spend theirholiday at Tortuga. 1 - in the way we will rememberin theway LasAves. we will somethingwe didsomething that different, made ahuge difference coves that we shared thousands of birds. with But on our last visit we anchoredOn previous visits in protected, mangrove-lined dinner that night. must add that we haven’t lobster and had lostawonderful ourskills, anchor that we were snorkeling and forthetasty looking critters. I sters permitted is onLasAves, so itwasn’t long after we lowered our Unlike and huntinga few fishermen. fishing Los Roques, lob Las Aves are uninhabited exceptforasmall Guardia Costa station theirlinesin. they couldpull fortunate, and ended upcatching before fellows of thepoor two skimming along was thesurface. notso In oneofourfriends fact, are lines,since the boobies tofishing known lures dive onfishing out to inspect ourboat. Fortunately, we had already inour pulled islands, we were greeted by hundreds ofbooby birds that came of birds that roost approaching inthemangrove the islands. While The islands ofLasAves gottheirname from theenormous number AvesLas for thesupply boat to show up. but at .25cents it’s agallon abitoftrouble worth waiting certainly islands. It’s notas convenient as into pulling up, Pier 66and filling boughtbe from supply boats themainland between that and run up oncheap Venezuelan thetiming right can if is which diesel fuel, For thelast headed also is Los Roques chance cruisers west, to fill eral from moving anchorage weeks to anchorage. anchorages located throughout thearea that you couldspend sev 2 - - 3 ships were lost that night and or were hundreds perished of sailors rest followed into ofthefleet the crashing theFrench reef. All but theircannons wereing taken peril; forhelp, as acall and the its cannons fired flagship to theother warn ships ofthe approach- the breakers were spotted it was too late The to French back. turn Insteada village. theywere approaching adeadly reef. By thetime forthetrapfell and charged ahead thinking theywere approaching The approachingvillage. Frenchmen ontheother sideofthereef many lanterns aboard theirboats to simulate abrightly litcoastal side ofthereef where we were anchored, andlit as darkness fell, Frenchmen into aclever trap. The Dutch boats entered theleeward ofboatssmall fleet from Curaçao to LasAves to lure themarauding coming to Bonaire. Having aspy inplace, network theDutch sent a islands of Tortuga,the offshore and LasAves Los Roques, before theFrench west sailed As from Trinidad, fleet theyencountered acleverthe Dutch plan to devised take onthetyrants. and thousands So of sailors. instead of fighting the French head-on, were notprepared to repel an attack by eighteen French warships were thetiny Dutch islands ofBonaire and Curaçao. The Dutch Vincent, Grenada, and Trinidad targets Their from theBritish. next wreaking havoc intheCaribbean, seizing theislands ofSt. Lucia, St. involves a lesson.little Inhistory the 17 ofbeingBut there. that was The onlythehalfthrill other part was spectacular. scenery underwater The reef knockedful. thewaves to down just aslight chopand the the coral heads to where they anchored. It was absolutely wonder With theirencouragement, threaded we carefully ourway through anchored on the reef and encouraged us to join them out there. to inthe20-to-30-knot blowing range. be were This time, friends tecting theislands from therelentless that trade always winds seem There barrier reef an offshore pro is forabout that 5miles, runs th century the French century were - - naval battle occurredhundreds ofyears ago. ence to spend aweek anchored spot where ontheexact such a from theships lost that fateful night. It was- areally special experi have cruisers reef, found hundreds of cannons and other remains took place. itwas Although too rough forus through to the swim so that incredible is is we wereWhat anchored this right where all marooned onthedeserted islands. reef system, sinceanchors and anchor chains damage thefragile and prohibited anchoring is park, inorder to thedelicate preserve surrounding the island have been designated as an underwater proclaim ita“Divers Paradise,” and it’s The waters true. certainly never saw one bird watcher.) The license tags on the cars in Bonaire (Wediving. saw hundreds but ofdivers, dozens ofwindsurfers, Most bird of the watchingtourism related is and to windsurfing, Amazing. were to built house theslaves worked who inthenearby salt mines. mini-bustaking aguided tour that oftheisland, we learned these what these houses were. It several was onlyuntil days later, while lined upinneat rows. Even through binoculars we couldn’t imagine beaches. From afar, thehouses looked like cement doghouses, of Kralendijk were dozens ofsmall white houses located onthe interestingAnother making ourapproach sight while into theport saw extracted is huge mountains from which theseawater. ofsalt, industries. Approaching ofKralendijk from thesouth we theport and language. Salt production and tourism are the island’s only are country, of the Netherlandspart Antilles—another culture, Bonaire, like its sister islands Curaçao to and Aruba the Bonaire DUTCH ANTILLES 3 2 1 trip toFlorida). welcomed ustoMexico(onourreturn One ofthemanyplayfuldolphinsthat Island silhouettesatsunset. garb. and colorful A KunaIndianwomaninhercustomary west, west,

25 throughout theIsland(SanAndres,Colombia) A prettyexampleoftheCaribbeaninfluenceseen anchored intheSanBlasIslands. Our dailysceneforseveralweekswhile GRAND BANKS YACHTSCRUISING HEAVEN • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL why Americans are flocking here like bees to honey. attempt to explain why we are falling in love with the country, and they appear surreal. This isPanama, and in this update we will abundance of butterflies, many of which display colors so vibrant fish. Every walk through the nearby jungle guarantees seeing an from a day of fishing without having caught a marlin or sail- that fishing lodges refund their customer’s money if they return their land. The billfish are soabundant on Panama’s Pacific coast the early Indians couldn’t have picked amore fitting name for “Panama.” Having lived here several months now we clearly see “Abundance offish and isthe butterflies” Indian translation of PANAMA boat needs. forourparticular boat, butthen we realize that perhaps we have cruising theperfect particularly at boatwhile, show time, we get the bug to buy another “after of these years”—still all our boat.in love with Every once in a ourthoughts thatand we re-affirmed we are –as Paul Simon says, was Theskipping a beat, great, trip the boat without performed terrain to and oftherugged tried beauty spot ortwo. aflamingo One day we drove around theentire island enjoyingthenatural more than 170species ofbirds pinkflamingos. including beautiful the salt pans and adjacent marshland are thefeeding also grounds loadedis onto freighters and sold throughout Curiously, the world. the ocean water to produce huge amounts ofpure which white salt, production ofsalt. There are of“salt miles pans” where thesun dries Bonaire longworld is famous wide, andmiles about forits 5miles Bonaire has alotto see above the water only24 Although as well. boat made certainly things easy. and really enjoyed it.Being able to thestern dive right off ofour 150 feet.Several to goscuba timesIhad diving theopportunity of water. spectacular, is The drop-off and continues onto about inabout be 15feetofwater,boat will and thestern inabout 40feet attached to buoys.the mooring When thebuoy, thebow ofyour Manythe island. ofthedive sites distance swimming of are within yachts edge, where visiting along may visiting thereef’s tieupwhile Instead, themarinas have installed asystem buoys ofmooring coral. land intheir large outboard powered and return to thepopular Indian make who to family weekly trips a local market on the main- Thelong. solution forSan an enterprising is Blas Kuna cruisers But you can’t catch vegetables at sea, and lettuce onlylasts forso later tuna. we respectable caught avery yellowfin the sea thesky merged time onthedistant with Ashort horizon. unlimited as far assky you couldsee until was clear and visibility It day, was apicture perfect just right forcatching thebig one. The Colombia’s Islands Rosario and entered into international waters. we havefish caught. The sea was extraordinarily calm as we left were dear lures deployed friend, largerby with avery than some Islands. big Penn Ourtwo International rods and reels, givento us anchorage along theColombian mainland en route to theSan Blas One bright and sunny morning we were from alovely underway Panamanians have lived inharmony. Panamanian andSince police Kuna them, theKunas warriors. and and re-enactments fireworks, ofthebattlesdancing, the between adaylong oftheirindependence with festivalthe anniversary of theycelebrated inFebruary a revolution in1925.Duringourvisit pletely autonomous from the Panamanian government following these islands are as theKuna known Yala Nation and are com- and control theentire archipelago ofover 340islands. Collectively, out canoe) selling vegetables. The Kunas number about 55,000 Islands we came were when approached inan by ulu(dug afamily Our introduction to theKuna Indians that inhabit theSan Blas ashore and to play swim onthebeach. were stunned at of the beauty islands and couldn’t wait to get protectreefs which the islands from the constant We trade winds. In spite oftheovercast day, made arrival ournoon iteasy to spot the overdue romp for agood onabeach. to forourselves, seeing this forward and Coco all Bear was way Island” forsundownersand We to meetnewfriends. were looking like the “Swimming Pool” gather where cruisers onnearby “Potluck seeing anotheryou boat, without orif choose, placesgo forweeks Theredown. are anchorages hundreds ofbeautiful where you can ofletting theirguard haveout theirislands, and cruisers theluxury gentle, people.practically Crime peaceful is nonexistent through- beingbesides interesting, extremely thenative Kuna Indians are a and incredible star shows at night as thereasons theyreturn. Also, tree-covered clear water, islands,crystal warm spectacular beaches, anywhere. They cite natural theunspoiled ofthepalm beauty of the San Blas Islands of Panama as their favorite grounds cruising Consistently, we and hear circumnavigators world cruisers speak Islands Blas San -

27 anchorages the next day loaded with lots of aguer (onion), osi track. All of a sudden Eddie was screaming, Coco was barking, and “But you can’t catch vegetables at sea, and (pineapple), oros (rice), asue (avocado), masi (banana), manasibu the squall began pelting us with rain and wind. We all responded to lettuce only lasts for so long. The solution (eggs) and even candir (chicken), which of course comes complete the screams and barks to see a two-foot-long reptile doing a snake with head and feet, making good fish bait. The cruisers can even dance on the deck. for San Blas cruisers is an enterprising Kuna place an order for specialty items like soda, beer, wine and rum. The guidebooks to Panama say that “if one does not fear lightning Indian family who make weekly trips to a The Panama Cruising Guide’s section pertaining to the history one need have no fear of poisonous snakes, for it has repeatedly local market on the mainland ... and cruisers of the Kuna Indians indicates the Kuna’s forefathers lived primar- been demonstrated statistically that one’s chances of dying from ily in the mountainous mainland known as the Darien. However, snakebite are not greater than those of being struck by a bolt of can even place an order for specialty items floods, wild animals, and snakes prompted the tribe to move to the lightning.” Well guess what, we are afraid of lightning, and definitely like soda, beer, wine and rum.” offshore islands where these dangers didn’t exist. Well, we learned afraid of snakes, especially since Panama is famous for poisonous firsthand that is not completely true. snakes. The dreaded Fer-de-Lance—regarded as the most danger- ous snake in the Panamanian jungles, has a strike so fast that the In the summer months, violent storms seem to come out of eye can hardly track it. After several minutes of ship-wide terror, the nowhere complete with blinding rain and howling wind. Early one slithering critter was returned to the water. We still don’t know how morning we awakened to see ominous clouds over the mountains he (or she) managed to climb aboard, but we started closing our meaning a rain squall was coming our way. As we rushed around overhead hatches at night. The thought of one dropping into bed closing hatches and ports I had trouble closing the hatch over our with us at night could push Eddie into a condo in Florida. bed in the aft cabin. I yelled to Eddie who was on deck, “Help me close this hatch, I think something is in the way.” She called back, We recovered from our incident and enjoyed another beautiful “It’s a bungee cord…or something,” to which I replied, “Well, fun-filled day in the San Blas Islands. Here the “red sky at night” did quick, pull it out. Here comes the rain!” So Eddie started tugging in fact turn out to be a “sailors delight” the following day. on the “bungee cord” when it started slithering out from the hatch

Above: Tothill cruising through the mountainous islands of Venezuela.

This photo: Another lovely day ends in the San Blas Islands.

CRUISING HEAVEN 27 of theSanBlasIslands clearwaters Eddie enjoyingthecrystal islands, butwelcomecruisers Cays nearSanAndresIsland)stillguardtheir (intheAlbuquerqueThe ColombianArmada CRUISING HEAVEN reptile doing” asnake dance onthedeck. responded to thescreams andto barks see atwo-foot-long We rain beganand peltingand thesquall wind. us with all ofasudden Eddie Coco“All was screaming, was barking, built fortifications as protection. fortifications built claimed theislands in1928, and immediatelyColombia officially Morgan used these islands to invade Panama and Colombia. slaves from Jamaica to tobacco, farm pirate legendary Henry while by theEnglishonly to in1631.They expelled be began bringing in covered forawhile, them in1527.The Dutch claimed victory tocountries for their possession fight since the Spanish dis first Caribbean Sea, theyare indeedjewelsthat have caused various SanAlthough Andres and Providencia are mere inahuge specks San Andres (Colombia) drank coldBalboa beerand sampled local Johnny cakes. at agreat little waterfront bar thePickled Parrot, called where we touring thewaterways and later inthelocal water ended taxis, up cafes, the town of “Bocas” flavor. retains still its colorful We enjoyed and restaurants way are giving slowly to T-shirt shops and Internet West was probably like 50orso years small taverns ago. While we walked aroundAs delToro, Bocas itreminded us ofwhat Key board engine to power islands. them between Indians and have of the Yamahalocals discovered the luxury out sacks. Around thetown delToro, of Bocas themore enterprising a dugouttheypaddle canoe, made oruse which sails from rice basic Their farming. main source of transportation the cayuo, still is They live like theirancestors thelocal waters, by fishing did, and The Indians that inhabit the islands are of the Ngobe-Bugle tribe. coloredThe vibrantly male has atrain 15-30incheslong. considered makes intheworld, themost beautiful its home here. reason.and for good For theresplendent example, Bird, Quetzal it a biologist’s51 keys, call and 200islets. The guidebooks fantasy, The archipelago delToro ofBocas ofnineislands, comprised is delToroBocas we intend to homeforawhile. call protected harbor tucked into thesurrounding jungle. Thiswhere is Recently, anewmarina, Shelter Bay, has inthenatural beenbuilt to theUS relinquished 1999when control ofthePanama Canal. center and special operations forlight infantry units from 1953 as theU.S. served toucans The fort are bountiful. Army’s training area inathickjungle is where monkeys, sloths, panthers, and was foundedin1914to protect theCanal from The attack. entire what was oncetheU.S. Army post Fort called Sherman. The fort Lemon Bay separates theold(and dangerous) ofColon from city - - homes in Bogotá, Medellin, We orCali. homes inBogotá, really enjoyed interacting interesting Colombians were from and their who friendly visiting themonthOver we spent inSan Andres, we metmany very leavingfor thepeople theoldBaptist church thestreet. down so we stopped and sampled her Sunday dinner, she prepares which infront ofher home. Itbarbecue grill was too tempting to pass up, and came alady upon chicken making fried and sausages on a morning we drove arented into cart golf theinterior oftheisland some we uniquedish have OneSunday never before experienced. into we turn would run Atalmost that every true. well partially is If seems is that we did was all eat our way through San Andres… camera we neededit! when topless washeld by our the beautiful from model Medellin. Where sented, and now probably our dog is in aglamour magazine, being her inthephoto course hecouldpose we with shoot. Of con- if took One of the models tomodels. a liking Coco Bear and asked on the islandarrived we saw a group of cameramen and swimsuit and romp onthebeach. foraswim noon we Oneafternoon when We foundasmaller to island onwhich take after Coco Bear every theatto thesame timeso exit that itcauses theboat to list severely. trying all singing be and dancing, theentire group will the evening, It thating. theboat acertainty when is returns to the anchorage in tours, blasting complete with salsa music and flow unlimited rum consider itaproper vacation taking oneofthese boat without out to thenearby islandJohnny called Cay. No Colombian would number of people, perhaps 100 or so, onto and head their decks assortment oftourist boats. vessels pack These rusty an incredible anchor intheharbor, theyshare boats shrimp which and an with route Florida and Panama. between choose to cruisers Almost all oflocal boatsa collection boats and occasional fishing sport en There one“marina” is inSan “Nene’s Andres called Marina.” It’s ner, mess exceptwe and utensils. ate kits military-issue with and dinner.their facility din- potluck It into turned acruisers-style invited coupleto us and another cruising jointhem foratour of Later and theymade that upadelicious conchceviche evening, our dinghy to hunt forconchand lobster. anywithout boats. They us took outto going turns with thereef in strange as itmay seem, theyare assigned toontheisland duty soldiers are oftheGuardia notpart Costa orNavy; therefore, as snorkeling lobster and collecting day. and conchthenext These several ofthesoldiers swam outto welcome us and invite us to go we clear anchored water inthecrystal When near theirstation, preventing theNicaraguans from staking claim ontheirislands. monthly tours ofduty,serve mostly keeping theisland spotless and from mainland Colombia have who never seen abeach before, CaysAlbuquerque near San Andres. Young many recruits, military Today, the Colombian Armyoutpost at has the a well-equipped - -

31 This is whaT you’ve been looking for…

with the locals, most of whom speak both English and Spanish. We all decided that without doubt, San Andres was the most friendly island we have seen, and we’ve seen a lot of islands between Florida and Panama.

Heading Home It happened in Cartagena, Colombia. We figured it would happen to us sooner or later since we have seen it happen to the majority of our cruising friends. No, we weren’t mugged, robbed, or invaded by pirates (although there really are pirates out there!). Heck, we didn’t even have our dinghy stolen, an accomplishment not too many of our friends can brag about. It happened to us during our morning walk/jog circumnavigating the old walled city, and came through like a simulcast announcement in Technicolor. After going on eight years cruising around the Caribbean, South and Central …and it was worth the wait. America, it was time to head back to the United States of America. Everything you ever knew about the ultimate Our 21-year-old Grand Banks has kept us safe and secure, her Caterpillar engines never faltering throughout our eight-year cir- boating experience is about to change. cumnavigation of the Caribbean. It has been an amazing experi- ence cruising throughout this great region, and we can learn a lot stay tuned…The bar is being raised. from our South and Central American neighbors. We love the culture, the people, the food, and especially the many friends we Marine.CaT.CoM met along the way. Who knows, we may return some day. ••

Tothill anchored in Tortuga Island ©2011 Caterpillar. All rights reserved. CAT, CATERPILLAR, their respective logos, with another Grand Banks 46 “Caterpillar Yellow” and the “Power Edge” trade dress, as well as corporate and product from Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela identity used herein, are trademarks of Caterpillar and may not be used without permission.

CRUISING HEAVEN

CAT Marine Ad (Spray Mag).indd 1 2/9/11 9:46 AM Our five-man navigation team aboard the newly purchased 49 Eastbay HX DIGGING THE became submarine-like in precision. “The next mark will be a flashing red four-second.” “How far?” “Two miles.” “I have it on radar.” “I see it about 11 o’clock.” “Turn to 165...”

TEXT / GEORGE SASS, JR. “DITCH” COURTESY OF YACHTING

GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 33 entrepreneurial he honedinthefast-moving form Internet world, boat shows andover poring brokerage listings. Instead, inthe – how not years months if are at usually spent docks walking You see, clued Teddy nobody inabout the boat-buying process world. moving than enough clues about how a boat would in Teddy’sbe ride fast boat, we ofthis would have and quickdelivery trial foundmore course,Of had about we thequickpurchase, known quicksea learned fast. accomplished embrace lifelong sailor amotoryacht’s He speed. the Eastbay, offering the to watchrest of us an opportunity an extended first be his would son. Thetrip passagenewborn aboard for aFriday afternoonand wife and wedding to meethis party than 45hoursbefore we were dueinCharleston, South Carolina, daylight. But Teddy had an agenda. We were to leave less Maryland woundslowly my way to from Norfolk Miami, motoring only in Waterway often Like is yachtsmen called. before and since, I’d It wasn’t the first time I’d“The Ditch,” done as the Intracoastal owner. blackness at of speed clip should agood task be for the reserved That withthe a boat rest wasDriving fine of inthepitch- us. Turner was reveling purchase. inhis less thanwheel halfthetime, as first-time motoryacht owner Teddy theglassesahead with and working thespotlight. We were at the CRUISING THE INTRACOASTAL W his son Georgehis took watching turns theradar, looking Puckhaber, aquintessential Southern gentleman, and e took Buddy calling themarks. onthechart turns It was on Wednesday. 10a.m. underway. porch thedelilefton thenightsandwiches before, we were After tracking the down rest ofourcrewgrabbing and a bag of staterooms, galley. heads two and afull-size beam afairamount allows ofaccommodations, including two upgraded, and several appointments had The 16-foot beenadded. 660-hp 3196 TA The interior diesels. 49HX ofthis finish beenhad about 25knots and hitatop apair ofCaterpillar speed of30 with degrees ofdeadrise aft. She’s ontheheavy built cruise side, but she’ll Hunt and Associates deep-V designedher modified with 19 hull I found Teddymorning, aboard futzing new boat. his C. Raymond voyage, Iwas fortheeastern bound Thenext shore ofMaryland. Forty-eight hoursafter inviting Igotthe call mealong for the The Departure Teddy was theproud ofa49Eastbay owner HX. Within just seven days ofseeing thelisting computer onhis screen, going foraride. the sea and thetimehehad trial to flyhome. Ice ornoice, they were Teddy had for onlyanarrow thetimehearrived between window the Bay and break some ice ahead oftheEastbay workboat. his with The dealer asked alocal weatherman to meethe and Teddy outon winter slow himdown. online hearranged and aseadidn’t trial, letacoldChesapeake he slashed After theprocess finding to the49HX down aweek. with hardwith beige mayonnaise, pit-stop butintrue fashion, we flewin Carolina.North We, too, couldeat onlyso many day-old sandwiches theirboats idle Most over folks forastop at Coinjock Marina in plus knots. often less than a hundred yards away. We sped by inthe dark at 20- way Landing theNorth River, down smelling thearomas ofland The water was like molasses as the we exited canal and snaked our oftheslot. middle Swamp and keeping an eye on our radar to ensure we were in the canal into thenight’s darkness, cutting through theGreat Dismal pleasantries were of our not plans.part We blazed the narrow down stop, drop and thehook enjoy butnormal anicemeal, cruising of theAlbermarle-Chesapeakewhen mostpeople Canal.is This swamp water, we negotiated at thelock Great Bridgeat themouth zero at 5p.m. reflectingglasslike thesun set, offthe black, As We flewthrough Hamptonmarker mile Roads and arrived at ICW glee. the logwas newto them, and theysoaked salt morsel with upevery displacement speeds. Busting through waves off and clicking miles and Buddy has putquite under thekeel a fewmiles atrawler at TeddyBoth George are friend and his accomplished sailors, boat Her was solid. offthechop. mass 45,000-pound shrugged barreled along at 22knots, forcing us to back off to 19.The about of the northwest at 25 knots. Green water flew overbow the as we thebaydown out Winds howled ofamorning. was duringaripper Teddy’s first sea onthe49HXwas trial ona calm day, butourtrip about 13 feet, 6inches–enough toabout 13feet, get through after the half-hour office.) Oncethe mast wewas down, clearancehad a vertical of overhead from nearby Camp Lejeune. (Sure beats aday at the whisked into thedistance as ofhelicopters aswarm buzzed close by, whipping 25- to 30-knotwinds Iwatched my favorite hat get we stoodmast atop had to the hardtop While come down. with marked at theboat’s highest point (the mast). We determined the We approached aboathook onourbow with slowly thestructure ourschedule, atry. itwas worth with at and the it bridge woulddecided a tightbe fit underneath. But excess of35knots had We beenclocked. shook ourheads, looked Lejeune, we learned would in the bridge not open because winds Calling tender thebridge fortheOnslow Beach Bridgeat Camp offshore. our entire would spent be trip insidebecause oftherough weather continued express. our LowWe Country settled on the thatreality we awoke remained later thewind strong that as we morning, in a cove on the east end of the Alligator-Pungo Canal. When Just after we hook on the Thursdaydropped midnight, morning, at night? south goes inthespring? And the ICW away pulled drives thehell leaving to other wonder: cruisers Who Buddy and me) to butdecided offacouplemore knock miles. We staying at themarina forthenight (it would havewith beenfine Our total timeat was thedock less than 45minutes. We discussed she Southernshowed hospitality in keeping true us on schedule. the waitressbegged closing theplace for last-minute and service, and watched Teddy Eastbay his dock foroneofthefirst times. We the distance ...” watched my favorite hat getwhisked into by, whipping 25- to 30-knotwinds I we stood atop thehardtopWhile with determined themast had to comedown. the boat’s highest point (the mast). We aboathook onourbowwith marked at “We approached slowly thestructure

37 CRUISING THE INTRACOASTAL and parallel parked newboat his ” sheBug. as were if aVW turned-powerboater larger atight her innimblydown slot with vessels pulled sides onboth “Coming in,any hesitation Teddy had Eastbay about his docking was gone. This sailor- little more effort little moreinto effort the process, butit was who studied Teddy speed and charts jotted my estimate Theothers puta down. to Marina theCity inCharleston. Itook aglance at afewnumbers, During thehomestretch, predicted weourown formed lograce Not even aday removed, itwas timeto getback to sea. radio from bellowed overhead speakers. ofscepters menus as andChristian full perused Belt, of theBible mental health facility. We at arrived theeatery, smack inthemiddle Marina to a“diner” inacab most driver whose likely escaped from a afast-movingof timewithin capsule. We rode from Wacca Wache senses were acute, like those ofanyone has who spent any amount morning –lesthan 36hours The next after we’d – trip started our my The Arrival It was timeto sleep. bow,off our illuminated ourby theconfirmed spotlight, realization. before realized we all ourmistake. Sea grass and abeach several feet doesn’tseveral others. “This right,” seem is all Teddy had to say (read “I”) picked out a mark too far up the channel andpast cut one oftheoldest mistakes ofthesea navigating when at night. We ignoringourolder,punk kids father, wiser we proceeded and made before, indaylight, heknewtheywere tricky. But like abunchof night’s rest, suggested we stop. Having navigated these waters Buddy, dressed to pajamas theninesinhis and ready foradecent confluence ofchannels, includingLockwood’s and Shallotte.Folly strove minds By ourtired, fuzzy to nightfall, aconfusing decipher could getclose to Charleston refueling. this with consumption was aboutperhour, 25gallons and we we decided So muchplanning. for good Our fuel the channel to dock. the next fuel pumpbrokento findthe at the so marina, we headed across we grabbed some chowwhile at aGreek restaurant. We came back ofourschedule, we askedServants thedockmaster to top us off At 5p.m., we stopped at Wrightsville forfuel Beach, Carolina. North delay. maybe with alittlemoremaybe diesel inthere with than dear old •• dad. destinedis to have salt water screaming through veins. his Though was onboard himmost son, who His ofthetime, with newborn summer, from South Carolina cruising to theBahamas. Hefun. spent spare almost every moment on the boat during that Teddy had determined that quickly powerboating can a lotof be would speed itupabit. pace, growing impatient and hoping maybe, just maybe, thecaptain on thewaterway several later weeks at moving amore civilized motoryachtbought to a43-foot live aboard. Ifoundmyself back George becamehewent so enamored back thetrip homeand with noproblems,ditch nonew-boat with glitches. In just over 37hours,we had traveled almostalong the 600miles parked newboat his sheBug. as were if aVW larger atightdown slot with vessels sidesand onboth parallel was gone. This sailor-turned-powerboater her innimbly pulled Coming in,any hesitation Teddy had Eastbay about his docking theengines, theowner’scut estimate minutes. was within closest, restrictions along theway. into we pulled Marina theCity and As and studied ourcourse, timeand averages, determining speed

39 MAKING PORT & PASSAGE ALONG THE INTRACOASTAL WATERWAY

eveloped after World War I as a submarine-proof route Be careful of your wake, too. A heavy barge will flatten head-on for coastal shipping, the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway waves, but a large wake from an overtaking boat may twist a tug has become a cruising destination unto itself, popular away from its barge, parting the cables that join them. Wake control withD Grand Banks owners from along the East Coast and around is particularly important for all boats passing construction zones, the world. For those looking to make the trip, here are some tips boat ramps, beached boats or wading fishermen. Use binoculars to and recommendations by and for GB cruisers along this section of look for the unexpected. the ICW. Bridges are another reason for caution and forethought. Know your height and the bridge clearance beforehand; allow boats that Safe Passage can traverse without an opening room to pass, and let faster boats While the threat of submarines has abated, the ICW remains a busy move to the front. Restricted bridges can be quite trying. In heavily waterborne highway for shipping and transport. Tug and barge traf- traveled Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina, the bridge opens only fic is common, and it’s important to remember some of the basic once per hour, creating just the right mixture of boats and impa- boating rules when encountering commercial vessels like these. For tience to set off some fiery verbal barrages. instance, always pass dredges at very slow speed on the side marked for safe passage with two black diamonds (think of the phrase “dia- Sloppy navigation is another impediment to ICW quietude. Elec- monds are a girl’s best friend”), and radio the dredge if you’re at all tronic charts have come a long way, but paper charts are essential uncertain. for waterway navigation in this area. Plotters don’t show enough detail over a large enough area. Keep track of your progress with VHF channel 13 is often used to communicate safe passage. Be channel-marker numbers. “Red, right, returning” does not ap- clear on the radio. “Southbound tug and barge, this is the moto- ply on the Intracoastal; rather the rule is red, right when traveling ryacht Grand Adventure on your bow on channel 13.” The skip- clockwise around the country. A simple memory aid is to keep per immediately knows you are addressing him, which boat he is “red markers toward the heartland and green markers toward sea.” dealing with and which microphone to grab. (Commercial vessels Before running through Georgia or South Carolina practice using are required to simultaneously monitor channels 13 and 16 with range marks both ahead and astern. While ranges are common in separate radios.) commercial ports, many yachtsmen are not familiar with them, and they are the only markers posted in many places along the ICW.

CRUISING THE INTRACOASTAL 39 SAFE HARBOR There are scores of destinations along the ICW well known for beautiful scenery, Jekyll Island historical sites, wonderful hospitality – and sometimes a mix of all three. Here are In 1886, Jekyll Island was purchased to be- five favorites recommended by GB owners who made the voyage in recent years. come an exclusive winter retreat for the Rockefellers, Morgans, Pulitzers, Goulds and other elite American families. The state Ocracoke Georgetown bought the property in 1947, but the attrac- Ocracoke Island was Blackbeard the Pirate’s This antebellum town on the Sampit River tion remains: unspoiled yet accessible, Jekyll home, where he (literally) lost his head during is the antidote for the antics of commercial Island offers wonderful opportunities to the early 1700s. Legend says that his ghost still Myrtle Beach. Residents and guests alike en- explore and enjoy, starting with 10 miles of haunts the area, but these days you’re more like- joy an ambience that easily becomes a way of pristine beaches. As a bonus, the marina of- ly to find snowbirds patrolling the local haunts life – plucking oysters from beds around the fers free bicycles to cruisers, and everything and enjoying ocean-water temperatures that inlets and reveling in the bounty of five rivers, on Jekyll Island is accessible on two wheels, stay warm well into fall. The village of Ocracoke beaches and great golf courses. Every Oc- from the shops in the center of town to a is a true gem; listed on the National Register of tober the town hosts a Wooden Boat Show lovely park at the island’s end that includes an Historic Places, it has a rich maritime heritage, along the city’s waterfront and historic dis- array of fishing piers overlooking St. Simons dozens of unique shops and most of the conve- trict, with nearly a hundred boats of all sizes Sound and the lighthouse on St. Simons Is- niences and services of a world-class vacation on display in the water, and a popular wood- land to the north. destination. It’s also an ideal home base for ex- en boatbuilding competition. Visit wooden- Tip: If you like to golf, consider Jekyll Island boatshow.com for more information. ploring the beautiful Cape Hatteras National over some of the more popular—and crowd- “This antebellum town on Seashore and other parts of the Outer Banks. Tip: Get to the Kudzu Bakery on King Street ear- ed—coastal resorts along the ICW. The island is the Sampit River is the Tip: A 10-minute walk up Highway 12 from the ly enough in the morning and you can walk out home to Georgia’s largest public golf resort, with harbor brings you to Howards Pub and Raw Bar. with bread that’s still warm from the oven. Opens 63 holes on three 18-hole courses and a historic antidote for the antics of at 9 a.m. Monday through Saturday. 9-hole course. Great burgers, a delicious pulled-pork sandwich and commercial Myrtle Beach. Pamlico Sound crab cake sandwich are some of the menu highlights, as is an enormous beer list includ- Residents and guests alike ing nearly 200 bottled imports, microbrews and 24 Oriental Beaufort enjoy an ambience that easily draft selections. Enjoy the rocking chairs on the sky Oriental is located in Pamlico County, just This cruiser-friendly town is steeped in his- deck while taking in the ocean to sound-side views. below where the Neuse River connects with tory, with a colorful seafaring heritage and becomes a way of life ... “ the Pamlico Sound, the second largest sound plenty of natural beauty to explore. Five ma- on the East Coast after the Chesapeake. Many rinas are ready host your vessel, including the of the activities here occur in and around the Downtown Marina right on the waterfront. water, such as the Oriental Cup Regatta, sport For peace and quiet at the end of the night, fishing and the annual Croaker Festival. It’s a consider anchoring just south of the city be- peaceful and relaxing refuge, with everything hind the marsh island. And for spectacular from local art to local seafood just a leisurely views of Cape Lookout Light and the barrier walk or bike ride away. For those who wish island, the Bight at Cape Lookout is a favorite to wander a little farther afield, the surround- anchorage of locals and savvy cruisers alike. ing area offers exceptional opportunities for Jeb Brearey—aka “Jeb the Dock Master” — cycling, paddling, hunting, golfing and other is a wealth of local knowledge and can direct activities, all within a short distance. you to local sights like the Carolina Maritime Tip: Just north of Oriental is River Dunes, which Museum or to fine provisions at the Beaufort offers a picturesque and protected marina on Grocery Company on Queen Street. the ICW at MM 173 with year-round boat- Tip: Head out to nearby Harkers Island for a ing, floating docks, private steam showers, and visit to J.A. Rose, master model boat builder and transient dockage. For more information on the lifelong resident. To date, he has built around marina and the village – including details about 3,000 model sailing vessels, plus countless scale- the Grand Banks rental cottage there – visit river- model versions of the full-size boats he once built dunes.com. for local fishermen.

CRUISING THE INTRACOASTAL 41 GB owner John Armati took his 72 Aleutian RP, EXPLORING Liberty IV, on an epic cruise from to ’s . Fortunately for THE LOUISIADES & us, he also took a wealth of photos and records of the journey—some of which are presented here. The complete account of this spectacular voyage, MILNE BAY PROVINCE with more photos and log entries, can be found at: TEXT & PHOTOS / John Armati grandbanks.com/spray

GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 43 LOUISIADES & MILNEBAY ney to Cairns and back, about 2,800 nm which will take us moreney to will about Cairns 2,800nmwhich and back, By far thelongest ofour voyage part from Syd IV getting is Liberty - Plan The pendence in1975. ated, and were named Papua New Guinea. gained PNG her inde- After the end of World two War II,the territories were amalgam- an ofAustralia. external territory remained all possessionwhich aBritish even though itwas deemed mer German New Guinea New and British Guinea inthesouth, United Nations –gave Australia amandate to administer thefor After Great this War,League the of Nations –forerunner to the New British time itwas called Guinea. during World War Iwas administered by Australia –from which as German New Guinea. In 1904,thesouth Papua was called and PNG’s came under German north control in 1884 and was known those hehad seen earlier ontheGuinea Coast ofAfrica. Ynigo deRetez because Ortiz ofits natives’ close resemblance to hair; New Guineafrizzy was thename givento theland in1545by the word Papua from derived theMalay is word “pepuah,” meaning A little research revealed some interesting background PNG: about Abbreviated ofPNG History into waters PNG and return to Cairns. (nm) another 1,300nmacross inbetween, –and, theCoral Sea, ofSydneyport to Cairns and return –almost 3,000nautical miles with thelongest be abigThis would trip,beingfrom legs my home Kate, aboard theM/VOrion in2008. stimulated to my the I Louisiadescruised region when wife with appetite into further, to Papua cruise New Guinea waters, had been have taken ofthebiggest Grand and my so far Banks built delivery tolike because agreat -especially venture I opportunity further gate Tasmania So now, in2007,and lots inbetween. 2009,seems coast ofAustralia, around Lizard north Island, south to circumnavi - inmanyI’ve donealotofcruising boats since1990,ontheeast PapuaWhy New Guinea (PNG)? region.explorers ofthis Chinese and Malay seamen are believed also to have beenearlier in search forthesupposed southern continent. 40 tonnes, second ofthree from sailed Peru vessels which in1605 ther Spanish orPortuguese. Torres was captain oftheSan Pedrico, ArchipelagoThe was named after Luis deVaez who Torres, wasei- Papua New Guinea mainland. merged mountains and coral–ringed archipelagos southeast ofthe The includes region BayMilne from islandsand the formed sub T pelago. voyage to Milne Bay Province and theLouisiades Archi - duringits September, IV ofLiberty theLog is his 2009, - - AS GOOD AS ITGETS AS GOOD AS ity Opening at Opening 1915and headity into thenight. more in thanrive with 3,000litres remaining. We clear Trin- as is anticipated burn fuel at 140 litres per hour, to so we arexpect 11.7 knots towards Trinity Passage, to theopensea. ourexit Our the shallow and narrow channel towards making ourfirst waypoint, At 1615we release ourlinesand motor outofthemarina, through forces and the JapaneseAllied duringMay 4to 8,1942. was thesetting forthe Battle ofthe Coral the Sea fought between We have 502nmto Alotau across thenotorious Coral Sea, which beginning. inCairns.Marine OurLouisiades Rescue voyage moments is from the Australian System Ship Reporting inCanberra and Volunteer We are ready! Customs has cleared us and to we logonwith depart, August 31:Yorkey’s Knob, Half Moon Bay Cairns Marina, theweather.with how our planning good of course, – and, howis fortunate we are We are as ready as we can be. Now, success on orfailure depends Coral Sea. complete preparations to venture to across anewland, thebroad McDowall, Frank Walsh and Stephen there Ainsworth—and we fered nomechanical failures. Three more join us here—Dhugald and crew happily, and, by thetimewe tieupat Yorkey’s, we’ve suf are essentially Thevarious topassages refuel. road–testboat the having done so. to In our thoseonly visits of civilisation forms fact, we can avoidWhenever amarina we doand gain huge pleasure for Mourilyan Harbour. Gayundah Creek secret andin the Hinchinbrook, the marvelous off in Shoal Bay, the Sandy Straits, Pancake Scawfell Island, Creek, by the regular south–easter for most of the time. Mostly we anchor weatherwith good is blessedThe and aided north trip “delivery” adequateCairns with reserves. Louisiades take the cruise fuel and onsufficient toreturnwe to will in anticipation ofdeparture aweek later forAlotau where inPNG for theleisurelyto trip Yorkey’s Knob, August 24 Cairns, arriving BridgeMarina onJuly Gladesville departs 24,2009 IV Liberty The Voyage Begins werethree who guests to joinus at Yorkey’s Knob. and to load fuel forthe three sufficient and crewprovisions and planning to anticipate equipment various failures and emergencies, theLouisiades inparticular—demandsPNG—and significant and to for handle supplies,emergencies. fuel, to of–call Cruising the Sydney–Cairns–Sydney passage many coastal, is with ports– legfrom CairnsPNG and return just is over course 1,300nm.Of the ocean crossings waters, indistant, unknown and cruising the than 230engine of hours.By comparison, and ignoringtheperils Our heading 37 is Island. The sea-state forecasttwo metreswith a is steady or less 20 ˚ true to 416nm ourfirst true away landfall, at Brumer - -

47 knot south-easter dead on the starboard beam. As good as it gets. sages, because we knew it will not be easy to prepare food if the seas ance which is done with good humour, and courtesy – we are issued Our predicted passage time to Alotau at 12 knots is 42 hours but go beyond three metres. our “Free Pratique”—or the required Permit to Land —once we pass a few hours into the crossing we are making just over 11 knots. We a cursory inspection of Liberty IV. are a couple of hours behind schedule held back by a westerly–set- Kerry’s wife Jill, Cairns-based friend Rhonda Campbell, and an- Before the trip across, we decided that all food waste would be dis- ting current, as we cruise further to the north east. other friend in Sydney, Rhonda Rose, spent hours in their kitchens preparing single-serve packaged meals for our crossings. These are carded overboard, cardboard packaging shredded, and plastics com- We take intermittent turns at the helm, and then at dusk we set stowed in three freezers ready to defrost in the micro-wave. Thanks pressed and bagged. After our days at sea, we had only two kilograms three four-hour watches with two at the helm while the others to their efforts, we begin with a great choice of food which we enjoy of garbage by the time we made landfall at Alotau, which was con- sleep. Sleeping is relatively easy with the sea off the starboard bow throughout our three-week adventure. 1 fiscated for disposal by the quarantine officer. As in Australia, PNG and not much rolling thanks to very efficient stabilisers. Kerry and I customs is no-charge while Quarantine levies a cost-recovery charge We are disappointed when one of the freezers dies just as we make of 250 kina ($125 AUS) for the disposal. are on from 2000 to midnight; Malcolm and Frank do midnight to 2 0400, and Dhugald and Stephen 0400 to 0800. Not a boat in sight, our Brumer Island landfall, (followed a couple of days later by a The Port Authority’s berthing arrangement is more complex, with an or on the radar. But for several hours, we have a lonely albatross as second freezer failure), but we still have three more freezers and initial back-of-the-envelope proposal in which we pay 1,500 kina for a company, perched unsteadily on our bowsprit for more than an five refrigerators so our concern is not too heightened. At least the night’s dockage. This is subsequently modified to 600 kina after some hour, as Liberty IV punches through the ocean. Mediterranean chicken survives, cooked along with other delicious meals by Rhonda Rose to be devoured another day. pleasant negotiation. We could anchor off, but are too tired to make We see only one vessel on the entire Coral Sea passage, the 150-me- the effort, so we pay with cash and a knowing smile to one another. tre I.D. Symphony, picked up by the AIS and radar on our second As ocean crossings go, ours is enjoyable and uneventful - and We have a celebration to mark our safe passage. The weather is unex- night as it came up astern at about 13 knots and virtually on the thanks to the China Strait tide, we pick up some of the time we lost pectedly mild – cooler, we all feel, than Yorkey’s Knob – nevertheless same track. We do a sweeping 360˚ turn to starboard, so when we on the high seas. we turned on the air-conditioning and slept well. come back to our original track, the Symphony is past and clear. We anchor near the Airways Wharf at Alotau at 1200, only 90 min- utes later than predicted by our passage plan. I make the final report HEADING INTO TOWN A FULL MOON & CLOUDLESS SKY to AusRep in Canberra, signing off with our coordinates and arrival The markets are well worth the effort to get there; either a half-hour We are comforted by the full moon hanging in a cloudless sky. It time and Malcolm logs us off with Cairns VMR, who have also kept walk or taxi, of which there are many that are full of rattles and dust. provides an excellent visual horizon and, as an additional aid, we us on their watch list. Kerry is first out of the blocks and flags down a taxi which takes him use the night vision camera to see what’s ahead in the dead of night. for a 40 kina ‘ride’ and then into town. We find out later the going rate The southeaster is now more than 20 knots, still on our starboard September 2-3: At Alotau, the capital of Milne Bay 3 is around four kina to the market! beam, but we are riding nicely with 81 nm still to run to Brumer Alotau, situated in the northwest corner of Milne Bay, means “Bay Island. of Views” in the Suau language. Milne Bay was named in 1873 by The market itself is fascinating, with vast arrays of crab, kumara, smoked fish, coral lime, banana, pumpkin, cold hot dogs and rows of And then landfall. Brumer Island rises from the horizon at 0730 Captain Moresby after Lord Milne of the British Navy. trays of greens. after a faultless 35 hour transit from Yorkey’s Knob. Soon we are The World War II Battle of Milne Bay, fought from August 25 to in China Strait and the ocean swell drops off noticeably. The closer September 7, 1942, was the first in the Pacific campaign in which Malcolm, ever-keen for a fish diet, buys four mud crabs for 28 kina. to land the more haze—heat or smoke, we don’t know—obscures the Allies decisively defeated Japanese land forces whose objective This seemed to be pretty reasonable, given the price in Australia. the landscape. had been to secure an air and naval base to support their Kokoda Track campaign to capture . Australian forces were THE TIDE IS WITH US credited with being the first troops to shatter the aura of invincibil- NOT QUITE THE LEAFY SUBURBS OF SYDNEY ity which had, to that point, surrounded the Japanese invasion. The Strait is comparatively narrow which means the tidal stream Next, to the bank where (not having taken the precaution of buying can run up to six knots adjacent to Sariba Island. We certainly re- kina in Australia) one of our intrepid travellers finds the ATM out of ceive the benefit of the tide because we are soon running at 15.8 service and not one of his three cards can extract cash from the teller. knots (speed over ground) compared with 11.3 knots just an hour Forty-two hours after leaving Yorkey’s Knob we anchor off Alo- Life in the tropics is clearly quite different from the leafy suburbs of ago. tau’s Airways Wharf awaiting Customs and Quarantine clearances. Sydney. Ours had been a great passage with all systems operating perfectly, We keep a full engine log every hour for a couple of reasons: one, other than the two freezers, so we were very happy that all our ef- At the excellent supermarket—which is guarded by armed securi- because it is a common-sense thing to do and, hopefully, the instru- forts to prepare properly for the trip had so far paid off. ty—we buy 40 kg of rice in one kg packs to trade around the islands. ments will alert us before the alarms sound; two, to keep the watch- 1 The Papua New Guinea flag streams from Liberty IV’s mast as Rice, of all the things we brought with us to trade, was clearly one of keepers awake and aware. We were all grateful for two silent nights. We hoist the two mandatory flags for cruising yachts, purchased she lies alongside the main wharf at Alotau. The red portion shows the indigenous Kumul Bird of Paradise, symbolizing the country’s the most popular commodities with the Louisiades’ islanders. from the renowned vexillographer, John C. Vaughan: the PNG flag Every six hours we report our position, course and speed to Aus- emergence into nationhood; the five five-pointed stars of the Southern is streaming proudly in the breeze from our HF aerial and beneath Cross reflect her ties with Australia and other nations of the South This evening we meet David, his wife, and their two sons aboard their Rep HQ in Canberra, either by HF or Satellite phone. If we miss the it the yellow Q, or Pratique, flag which is our ship’s signal to Quar- Pacific. Black, red and yellow are PNG’s traditional colours. yacht, the Lady Emily, moored astern from us. They, too, are Aussie schedule, the alarm bells will start ringing. antine authorities seeking their permission for our party to come 2 The men of Liberty IV moments befor Liberty IV set out from Yorkey’s travelers and confirm that rice is a popular trade in the islands. He Liberty IV’s chart plotter shows her in the middle of China Straits, ashore once we are given clearance. Knob, Cairns, for Alotau PNG and the Louisiades: Kerry Jiear, is right about that, as we are to learn from our island-hopping, sup- Stephen Ainsworth, Malcolm McDonald, Dhugald McDowall, Frank heading towards Milne Bay. Walsh and John Armati. plementing villagers’ diet of fish, yams and kumara with rice. Kerry HUMOUR & COURTESY FROM THE BUREAUCRATS spends a few hours with David’s sons, demonstrating a keen knowl- We’d given a lot of thought to the cuisine for the two high seas pas- 3 Liberty IV nestles against Alotau’s main wharf as we await customs edge of how to entertain a couple of ship-board lads. Port Control now directs us to the Main Wharf for Customs clear- and quarantine clearance.

LOUISIADES & MILNE BAY 47 The general demeanor in Alotau is dour, matching the generally high (150-meter) islands. Hummock and its neighbour Hazzard poor infrastructure. Roads are in bad condition and most retail are located at the northern end of a beautiful lagoon on the eastern businesses post security guards at the doors, suggesting there is boundary of the Group. The lagoon is bounded by a half-moon commonplace petty theft. However, we feel no concern for our shaped reef adjoining Tewa Tewa (Hummock), Hazzard, and the overall safety and despite the dearth of welcoming smiles and eye- islets of Button and Flat Islands. contact, courtesy is widely evident. We arrive at the lagoon entrance at 1230, presented with a virtual Alotau seems to have a two- or three-tier economy with some sub- paradise; the water colours are just beautiful. Liberty IV edges stantial homes set in the hills above the harbour, while lower down slowly through the opening in the fringing reef. This is the opti- many are rough-and-ready corrugated-iron shanties. Security at the mum time to manoeuvre, with the sun overhead and the coral wharf is excellent and we are never harassed or confronted in any heads clearly visible beneath the crystal blue water. We anchor in way. 11.8 metres, well north of Tewa Tewa (Hummock) Island and drop the anchor onto sand. No coral hazards for us, hopefully. Small native vessels pull in behind us to unload unbelievably large numbers of copra which are sold for cash and then trundled into huge sheds filled with tens of thousands more bags of copra. We’ve come to Alotau for customs clearance both into and out of PNG, but also to refuel. We need to load 6,200 litres in the ship’s tanks and another 1,100 litres in deck bladders to ensure we can cruise the Louisiades and leave from Island direct for Cairns on our return journey. So next day, we roll out the three fuel bladders as the Inter-oil fuel truck arrives at the wharf. The 430-litre bladders are set on the port and starboard side decks; the 300 litre bladder sits nicely under the aft deck table. After about an hour, we’ve loaded 7,750 litres of diesel giving us 1 10,950 litres of diesel for the Louisiades and direct return to Cairns. Liberty IV is now heavily laden—nearly nine tonnes of fuel, one- and-a-half tonnes of water—and yet she rides well and is as stable 2 3 as ever. This is our first taste of the Louisiades. The temperature is 28˚ so a swim for some was followed by a few beers for all. We have scarcely settled down when an islander, Rodney, arrives at the stern and When we pay the fuel bill we are told we are eligible for a refund of presents three painted crayfish for a trade. We are well pleased with the fuel excise—an unexpected bonus. The fuel costs 2.22 kina a the transaction; Rodney departs with a kilo of rice, a T-shirt and five litre—little more than a dollar a litre which compares very favour- cigarettes and we keep three robust, fresh, crayfish for dinner. ably with Australian diesel. We have anticipated that small excise bonus because Cairns customs also said we were eligible for a re- THE FIRST “DIM DIMS” OF THE YEAR fund of excise on fuel loaded at Yorkey’s Knob for the passage to the Louisiades. Rodney speaks English well, so communication is easy. He tells us we will be very welcome on the island and then rows his dug-out One last night at the wharf, then we check Buoyweather pending a canoe back to Hummock announcing our pending arrival. departure at 0700 for Hummock Island. We anticipate light winds at about 10 knots from the southeast for the next two days—and By the time our tender makes the beach, Head Man Apiti is alerted. this is precisely what we get. Perfect. We cast off at 0700 with help We are the first whites—so-called Dim Dims—to visit this year. Curiosity is high and we feel very welcome. 4 5 from wharf security for our passage to Hummock Island. Malcolm 1 A magnificent Technicolour sail graces this sailing fishes all day with three lines astern and we wait for dinner to come Dozens of young children meetcanoe us onas shethe crosses sand; manythe lagoon holding at Hummock even Island. up over the transom, but it is not meant to be. We don’t get even a younger children and babies in their arms. Few speak English; we single strike. As we motor along, we chat with Lady Emily on the learn that there is no school2 onAt Alotau, Hummock Dhugald and completes those whothe diesel receive fill of 430 litres into the starboard deck bladder. VHF; she’s headed towards and we are on passage 107˚ at an education go to an adjacent island where they are educated eight knots out of Milne Bay. while staying with relatives3 forThe the market school offers term. a diverse This range appears of produce to be as a very poor island with none wellof the as mudamenities crabs, smokedtaken forfish, granted and cold by hot dogs. September 2, 2009: To Tewa Tewa (Hummock Island), most Australians. Engineer Group, Milne Bay Province. Population 78. 4 An island trader unloads bags of copra, the dried Water for the village is drawnmeat from of the a coconut,corrugated from whichiron-lined oil is extracted. well The Engineer Group, of which Hummock Island is part, comprises about a metre deep and a metre square. Between the lagoon and an array of low coral islands, atoll-like reefs, submerged reefs and the well, 200 metres of sandy5 Some soil actsof the as thousands a natural of desalination bags of copra sys stored- under cover awaiting export.

LOUISIADES & MILNE BAY 49 LOUISIADES & MILNEBAY 4 2 3 1 4 3 2 1 bodies inwhatarenowknownasSkull Caves. ages-old traditionthroughouttheArchipelago ofinterring marked thearrivalofChristianmissionaries, endingthe Graveyards andtheuseofheadstones intheLouisiades washing dayisaconstant. Neither threadbarenorcolourless:atHummockIsland, A youngsterandhispuppygreetusonthebeach. travelled manyhoursinsailingcanoesforthisoccasion. Head ManApitigreetshisguests,someofwhomhave this occasion. sailing canoesfor many hoursin have travelled some ofwhom greets hisguests, Head ManApiti garden portion isselected within the family area sothere willbe the roof. Land for the house is allocated the by head man and the which support the roof and women weave the sides and some of is built family by and friends. The men cut timber frames and poles and at the start ofmarried life, live with relatives until their house sential. The husband andwife are frequently from different islands Once acouple ismarried with children, aproductive garden- ises “Every family has agarden and needs to grow produce for meals. ago. It what we sums saw upperfectly island: onalmost every ternet an Australian following yacht’s to theislands afewyears visit gardening and homemaking taken is from alogposted onthein- staplevillage the villages’ of produce. description The following taro, yam, coconuts, bananas pumpkin, and kumara provide which throughout Milne Bay Province and theLouisiades, gardens of We see onHummock Island, other village as we see inevery No shops, corner nosupermarkets, norefrigeration. grow, catch ortrade; there noother way. is ers’ subsistence comesonlyfrom what theirfood theycan life: we travelAs through theislands we clearly understand theisland- The Missionaries stopped that. then eaten, displayed theirskulls beams with inthehuts. oncarved en. caves Other and were ofcaptured forthebodies killed warriors, adjacent to Panasia Island where, in earlier days, the dead were tak later, oneofthemany we visit Skull Caves onPana Vara Vara Island Church marked acemetery is by anumber ofheadstones. Days missionaries, theinfluencesReflecting ofthe adjacent tothe SKULLTHE CAVES case, theyare therainsevery are empty; yet to come. discover that other islandshave also forwater, tanks butinalmost empty.but it is is affecting these islands, The bigtoo. dry We are to havedoes awater tank attached to one sideofthepitched roof; onaconcretewith acorrugated built is iron which floor roof. It grandestThe structure, using the loosely,adjective is thechurch, islanders.mock substantialdicative ofavery infant population among the78Hum - String clotheslinesare inabundance as are theclothnappies, in- and spotlessly clean. ing pots,saucepans are andstacked containers ofwhich tidily all afire if gets outofcontrol.the risk Each family has an array ofcook Most kitchens are removed well from thesleeping areas to reduce ABUNDANCEAN OFCHILDREN Houses from are plaited palm walls roofedfronds; with thatch. together; matches sticks rubbing sometimes with there if are any. Thereis noelectricity. is Cooking over openfires, most often lit by of fresh water drawn well. from thecommunity in thatchedand rinse-off shower-enclosures, using a meager supply as reasonablythe well potable water. Villagers bathe inthelagoon tem; sea water filtered is as itflows through the sandarrives and at - - the fish in fastthe fish enough. where hewants itto bottom be: fishing. Literally, the boys can’t pull thelineupwards that knowing jerks is to thehook free thehook, rock takes thepackage to quickly Apiti thebottompointwhich at intohook the palm leaf then drops itoverboard. The weight ofthe wraps and tiesapalmApiti leave around snags achosen rock, the can eat. family he and his Nofood. little fish, - or morefishes for a living aptly, a lessonfrom fisheswho a so man at the cargo,surprise our boys are givena lesson from a man who tender about Oncetheyovercome 30kgofsmall rocks. with their are inaweMalcolm and Kerry ofApiti’s He comesaboard skills. the for another day. that day are smoked fire over - the only way a village it to preserve great and productivedoes not day his fishfamily round.The eat all takesApiti at least thesame number offish backvillage. A to the three coronation red trout throat and six emperor; haul. agood day inthetender. theyreturn, ourboys have When fourcoral trout, day.us fishing next decide to joinhimfora half Malcolm Kerry and thebest fishermanhe is island onthe offers and hequickly to take Amongst Apiti’s many professed attributesproclamationis his that “This is my home. My family is here. This is where I want to be.” ask himwhy hehas returned to and theisland hesays, life simply: and travelled to many widely and across countries many oceans. I workedApiti for about 15 years on commercial shipping vessels tenure, heldprivately under State lease oras Government land. and provides that traditional lands have alegal basis forinalienable law ofPNG which recognizes a beneficiary CustomaryLand Title We says who We halftheisland. heowns meetApiti, learn later heis strength and aerobic fitness.” upper body strength and walking the steep slopes gives lower body Digging theirfit. gardens and paddling their canoesgives superb new garden has to be dug and then planted. The islanders are very ortwo three years ofharvest, the ground needs to lie fallow, soa the of a size crow bar. Because there is no fertilizer available, after is food for the day. isdone Digging with asharpened stick about so the owner has abig task. If help the isgiven, cost ofthe labour as 45degrees. Each square has to be dug-out to allow planting, into the ground. This is quite a job as the slope is often as steep the horizontal timbers. Where none exist, stakes must be driven which had been left groundin the are used as supports for those on down the slope to make squares of about 1.5 metres. The saplings horizontal boughs are laid across the slope and then boughs laid Once the area has dried, itisfired. The cleared gridded area— is a meter high. The tops are stripped and cut into 1.5 metre lengths. The bush and small saplings are first cut; the latter left about half on steep slopes, cut from the bush using machetes or sticks.digging an established garden to provide for their needs. Many gardens are

53 1 2 Every ten or fifteen seconds a bucket flashes in the sunlight and a ing the two-mile passage from Hummock Island towards our next few litres of water splashes into the sea. Such are the tribulations landfall, Itamarina Island. Our chart shows this sector as being un- of voyaging in an inter-island canoe. Contemplate: no life jackets, surveyed, so we are cautious. As well as he knows his fishing, Apiti no EPIRBs! These islanders are wonderful navigators and sailors, knows the waters around him. He extracts a 1994 Hydrographic travelling hundreds of miles in their outrigger canoes. chart of the area from his hut and with some rapid finger move- ments indicates where it is safe for us to cruise into the unknown THE FORMAL WELCOME BEGINS with a sense of security. This is my home.My family is here. The last arrival signals the start of Apiti’s formal welcome. Leading So we do. •• This is where i want to be. from the beach towards the village is a lush avenue of palm fronds set into the ground especially for this occasion. The villagers stand along one side of the avenue and their visitors walk into the corri- 3 dor beneath a hand-crafted sign reading, “Welcome to Tewa Tewa Island,” and to the outstretched arms of their hosts. The guests make their way along the line of greeters until, finally, they meet Apiti. May the celebrations begin! Some other islands, particularly Panapompom, have become the focus of cruise liners such as Orion and True North, and the 1 Hummock Head Man Apiti, who lays claim villagers are encouraged by the operators to put on a show for to half the island, stands outside his home. the passengers. My wife Kate and I first went to the Louisiades on the Orion last year and were exquisitely entertained by the 2 Malcolm proudly holds a Spanish mackerel, performances. caught near Giglia Island. Yet nothing we saw then came close to the display of uncontrived SPREADING THE GENE POOL 3 Moments later it is ready to cook. and spontaneous beauty which Kerry and I see and hear this day. A Kerry and I have by chance happened upon a wonderfully natural fabulous slice of life which we are unlikely to ever see again. Trading and exhilarating village celebration—Basket-to-Basket Day—the gatherings like this are common, because no island alone can pro- day islanders from as far away as 40 nm arrive on Hummock Island duce the variety of things its villagers need. Sea voyages from island for three or four days of trading, celebration and personal introduc- to island have created trading partners over centuries—both for tions—which is another way of saying spreading the gene pool. exchange of commodities—and for another ancient ritual called the Kula Ring. CATCH IS WELL WORTH THE LOSS OF THE ANCHOR Apiti, genial and courteous as he is each time we meet, apologizes that he has first to welcome perhaps 100 visitors to his island vil- Kula is a rigorously prescribed custom of ceremonial exchange. The They fish two or three miles outside the reef, losing one of the ten- lage, Tewa Tewa; would we like to come with him to the other Kula Ring is practiced amongst the inhabitants of the ring islands der’s anchors when it jams in a bommie. beach where the visiting sailing canoes are? Eight have arrived; one of The Massim—which embraces, amongst other areas, Milne Bay We hope Apiti will retrieve it later for his own canoe, so a bottle is is due soon. Province and the Louisiades. tied to the anchor rope as a floating marker before the rope is cut. The day out, and the catch, was well worth that cost. ISLAND HARMONIES HUNDREDS OF MILES ACROSS THE SEAS Malcolm: “Up early, making fishing lines ready for our day out We walk through the village across to the western beach. We hear, Participants travel hundreds of miles in their sailing canoes to trade with Kerry and Apiti in the tender. We head northwest; find a faintly at first and now louder, the wonderful voices of the islanders Kula gifts, which may include red shell disc necklaces, known as shallow reef ... and fish for coral trout. A lot of current. Apiti is a of Hummock—accompanied by two guitars and a bush bass—en- Veigun or Soulava, and which are typically traded in the north with great bloke and we have a really good morning, although Kerry’s tertaining their visitors with an unceasing cavalcade of hymns sung traders navigating the island ring clockwise; or white shell arm- legs look like Rudolph’s nose. I lose one of the tender’s anchors and in the Misima dialect. bands, traded in the south with traders navigating in an counter- some line. Later we go ashore to village which is very clean and the clockwise direction. We cannot understand the words, but the beautiful harmonies, co- people very friendly. Fish for dinner ... lovely meal.“ lourful décor and rhythmic dancing tell stories of obvious joy and A unique feature of the Kula is that trades are of “non-use” gifts Malcolm fillets the fish and this evening we barbeque it, wrapped in welcome. exchanged to enhance the social status and prestige of the giver— foil with lemon. Two nights anchored off the island: fresh crayfish who is always of higher station than the receiver. The gift must never one evening, fresh coral trout the next. How good is this? In the af- As each canoe is poled to the beach, with up to 18 passengers stay for long with the recipient who must pass it on to another par- ternoon, Kerry and I go ashore to Hummock while Dhugald, Frank aboard, the early arrivals sit silently on the beach awaiting the last ticipant in the ritual, so that it constantly circles the ring of islands. and Stephen decide they need shore-time and jump out onto Haz- boat. zard Island for some exercise. And at last, there it is! A magnificent multi-coloured sail, for all the KULA IS AN EXCLUSIVE CUSTOM Three hours later, with the tide rising uncomfortably, they are re- world a gigantic patch-work quilt, billowing in the breeze with the Not everyone may participate because the custom is exclusive, al- These pages recount only the beginning ofLiberty trieved, having battled for hours to circumnavigate the island with canoe under full wind-power skirting the reef, before its sail is low- though access may be bought. carefully distinguish IV’s epic cruise through the Louisiades and Milne ered and the men pole it into the shallows. its impenetrable brush and rugged shores. They’ve certainly had between this type of gift exchange and market exchange or bar- Bay Province. Read the complete article and see more ter—the latter being what Kerry and I saw this day. the exercise they needed; but rather more than they wanted. On this canoe, as on every other, the most important person aboard photos at grandbanks.com/spray. other than the helmsman is usually a woman constantly bailing wa- We are to leave next day, so Apiti is asked about the risks of cross- ter from the hull.

LOUISIADES & MILNE BAY 53 NORTHERNCROSSING Beyond Vancouver Island, the Inside Passage Offers Up A Different Kind of Cruising Experience

TEXT / David HenseI PHOTOS / Jonathan Cooper

GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 55 NORTHERN CROSSING Opposite: BritishColumbia,Canada. Passage innorthern rvos Spread: Previous supplies amongthefishingboatsinKetchikan,Alaska.

GB 72AleutianRP,, loadingupon Sanctuary

Several was us; behind and in the wake of the waves there was and winds It was clear as we passed Cape Caution, though, that theworst drenched anyone lacked who forcover. glee crackled over the radio water as guststopped 40knots while threatened, ofanother squall wall and afewshouts ofperverted that much ofthechop. blewdown us, though, Behind thedark turning a the squall Sound, the found corner the group following were theoceanAlthough swells high as we made ourway outinto event in2006,lesscruising than halfhad ever doneso before. crossing through nearly theGrand halfway Tour 50thAnniversary agroup ofveteran madeWhen GBowners theQueen Charlotte place Cape called Caution should make you thinktwice. boating.” any past that journey all, After includesacruise some- the open-ocean Queen Charlotte crossing from “pleasure afar cry But that’s formany ends where thejourney boaters, consider who Sullivan Bay orPort Hardy. venture upas far as theBroughton Islands, as some as far north into smaller Desolation percentage Astill Sound as well. will and Canadian Islands Gulf each year. Many ofthose venture up Hundreds notthousands if ofvessels spend timeintheSan Juan Northwest boaters travel who theInside upand down Passage. Crossing Queen Charlotte Sound abadge is ofhonoramong ning and scenic cruising routes. join the three-week adventure along one ofthe world’s most stun Tour welcomed nearly GBowners fifty from around the world to I GBs headinguptheInside from the US-Canada border to Southeast Alaska, the Inside Passage. Covering more than 600nautical miles Anniversary hosting by aguided excursion up cruise the n 2006,Grand Yachts Banks celebrated its50th - poises crestedpoises up ahead of timelaterA short theshow goteven better: ofpor asmall pod backs as and thentheyheaded tails back below. down were whales theirspray,then first two spotted to port, off then It wasn’t long before someone shouted “whale!”Sure enough, one, unfold majestically thepassage. down and watchsame idea coffee warm to thescenery sitondeckwith and were foredecks crowded—it seemed that had everyone the calm and theclose shoreline crowded Douglas fir. with Flybridges Pointrounded Dryad heading out to Seaforth Channel, thewaters our way upto Inlet. Khutze Eagles soared above ourboats as we the Grand Tour made a fleet dawn departure from Shearwater on That seemed certainly to thecase be acoupleofdays later, when Scenes Portion from theNorthern they inhabit. here. You might say thesame about thepeople, and theplaces Nature more profound, more spiritualup seemed more vivid, had graduated crossing. to avoyage onefifty-mile with breathtaking spectacle and awesome grandeur. That our“cruise” turesque that beauty aboundsinthesouthern straits way gives to of Insidekind Passage where the scenic, pic- experience—one here.” That perhaps point from onwe this were inforadifferent there was, already, a growing sense that things were “up different ofanother.the beginning we stared As inslack-jawed wonder, sight was meant to mark theend ofonephase and ofourjourney exclamationit seemed the perfect like the moment, point forthis Someone, somewhere, must have “Cue said, because the whale!” ourbow. yards off twenty and raised herback, in a tail slow, majestic dive below the sea, just made huge humpback us jump—a spouted, whale arched her asound that andDuncanby thesilence cut Landing when—with to getourbearings at theopening to Inlet Rivers onourway into tering thesea inways many ofus never knewbefore. We paused exhilaration and asense and ofaccomplishment,knowing mas into KlemtuPassage. In a small bay thesmall end, by its northern along Finlayson Channel, we kept to its western edge up and cut across through steep-sidedOscar Passage. Turning again north our eyes fororcas peeled and deadheads upthechannel and then For we were quite a while theonlyboats onthese waters; we kept that ledus upinto Mathieson Channel. through Passage,north Reid anarrow and intimate stretch ofwater spotted and Watch Ivory jumping between Islands as we turned buttheyhadcome back, breakfast to attend to: huge salmon were ended far too butstill quite soon.We awhile watched forthem to itwas amagical display and playful, powerful that lastedSwift, and soontheywere splashingof ourfleet, along inthebow wake. Sanctuary , the 72 Aleutian RP flagship , the 72 Aleutianflagship RP - -

59 “At Graham Reach we round Griffin Point and turn into the wide mouth of Khutze Inlet between still higher and steeper hillsides. A little more than a mile in and the passage bends to reveal its inner village of Klemtu (pop. 460) revealed first its fuel and ferry dock, say “artesian waters” we were in our bathing suits and up the dock end – a stunningly beautiful tableau of snow-capped mountains, clear blue skies, arcing waterfalls and eventually a large and beautiful First Nations “Big House” into the small pools that flow with warm water. The basins are up a and grassy mudflats, all reflected in glass-calm waters.” nestled on Klemtu Point. Klemtu is the traditional home of the small climb, so we sat neck-deep and soaked while taking in the full Kitasoo and Xai’xais peoples, who are known to watch over the sweep of Bishop Bay—green and pristine, a perfectly wonderful area’s pristine wilderness with a passion. place to escape from anything and everything that ever brought a cloud to your day. Moving still northward through Tolme and Princess Royal Channels, the high ground flanking these waterways grows steeper But we came to explore, not escape. Back out to Ursula Channel, and mountainous, with spidery waterfalls tucked into nearly every we were struck dumb once again by the scenery. These are narrow cove and inlet. On the flybridge we’re warm beneath sunny blue passages carved deep and rugged by retreating glaciers tens of skies, while a few hundred feet above us there’s snow dusting the thousands of years ago, and the snow-topped landscape is majes- peaks. tic, raw, and achingly beautiful. Lying again in the warm sunshine aft of the flybridge, it looked and felt like we were moving through At Graham Reach we round Griffin Point and turn into the wide some kind of wonderland on steroids. mouth of Khutze Inlet between still higher and steeper hillsides. A little more than a mile in the passage bends to reveal its inner If it seems we’re grasping for words here, it’s because there are few end—a stunningly beautiful tableau of snow-capped mountains, adjectives that can convey the true feeling of this place and that clear blue skies, arcing waterfalls and grassy mudflats, all reflected day, or the sense of spirit we all felt traveling together through these in glass-calm waters. waters and on these boats.

This is what we journey for. As we made the turn from Grenville Channel into Klewnuggit Inlet, a group of GBs from the Tour were already at anchor. We With the fleet anchored around the inner shore, we hop in the had the cove to ourselves, and all of our faces seemed to reflect the tender to explore the neighborhood. Salmon swim and jump, and understanding that we experienced something rare and wonderful soon a big brown bear is spotted down along the mudflats. He that day. stays for an hour or so to enjoy his dinner before sauntering back into the woods. We decide not to go ashore. There were plenty of other rare and wonderful experiences to be had on our way north. And not just on the water. Nighttime brings stars galore, great globs of Milky Way spread out in all directions. A sprinkling and sparkling of shooting stars. We In Prince Rupert, we left our GBs at the dock to fly by seaplane to stay up way too late just lying on our backs atop the flybridge, until the Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary, designated Canada’s a fog rolls slowly down the mountainsides. only grizzly bear sanctuary under the joint management of the province of British Columbia and the Tsimshian Nation. The The next morning we cruise carefully through thick fog and out aerial journey took us over rugged and remote valleys and cirque into Graham Reach. It was surreal and ethereal, the fleet emerging lakes in the high sub-alpine meadows, passing over steep-walled from the soupy grey and into a brilliant blue day—sunny, hot, fjords where rock faces rise sharply from the deep sea floor, spectacular. It’s moments like these that make this Grand Tour landing finally at a floating dock anchored near the Sanctuary. experience so much more than just a cruise, no matter how amaz- The flight paths were carefully planned to ensure that we did not ing that cruise may be. And this day’s journey was one of the best: disturb the bears. eye-popping scenery at every turn as we made our way up Fraser Reach. We deplaned to board a covered boat for two hours of exciting exploration in the wilderness coastline. It was amazing to watch in Sea conditions were ideal, as was the weather. There we were, hushed silence as these large, powerful creatures fed on rich sedge well above 53° N, still in May, and out on the foredeck in shorts grass and foraged for other foods. Moving along the water’s edge, and T-shirts. The music was on, and you might have even spot- just under the tree line, they would occasionally look up at us as ted a little dancing. Although our destination was northwest to if to observe our group and its own natural habits (just who was Klewnuggit, a stop at Bishop Bay was clearly in order. watching who here?). The grizzlies seemed at ease with our pres- ence and much more interested in lunching along the shoreline. Located in Haisla First Nations territory, Bishop Bay is home to Heading back to the dock for our return flight, we also saw and popular hot springs that are open to public use. Before you can heard countless other animals who make their home in the area’s

47 Heritage EU, Fireworks, at anchor in Khutze Inlet, British Columbia, Canada.

NORTHERN CROSSING 59 “We left Ketchikan behind and cruised up Tongass Narrows. From this point there are many well-regarded dense rainforest: moose, eagles, grouse, kingfishers, harlequin The dinner was like so much of what we experienced in this north- destinations one can choose—west to Thorne Bay, or up the beautiful Behm Canal to the rugged splendors ducks, harbor seals and more. The sound (though not the sight) of ern portion of the Passage: exciting and inspiring, impressive and of Misty Fjords National Monument. But we chose Meyers Chuck—and weren’t we glad we did!” wolves also caught our attention. adventurous, unexpected and unforgettable.

It was such a rare and wonderful adventure, a perfect distillation Another inspiring and unforgettable experience—this one also of the area’s natural wonders that left us a bit in awe; moments of with a food-related theme—occurred a few days later in the tiny After everyone settled into place and took a few photos, we all about the importance of conserving fish populations on the west excited chatter were punctuated by long thoughtful silences on the harbor settlement of Meyer’s Chuck, Alaska. We’d left a drizzly hopped in our dinghies and headed to shore. One of the locals coast. Also on hand was Tomi Marsh, the only female captain flight back to Prince Rupert. Ketchikan behind and cruised up Tongass Narrows and out into later exclaimed, “I don’t remember when I’ve last seen the chuck of a king crab vessel (F/V Savage), and one of the founders of Clarence Strait. From this point there are many well-regarded des- so full of boats.” Fishwitches, an Alaskan seafood marketing group that enthusi- Even dinner there became a wonderful adventure of sorts, as tinations one can choose—west to Thorne Bay, or up the beautiful astically spreads the word to consumers about the pleasures of our group walked up from the marina, through the quiet lumber Behm Canal to circumnavigate Revillagigedo Island and take in Greeting our mini armada were Greg Rice and Rebecca Welti, who Alaskan seafood. A smart, optimistic and energetic woman, Tomi town—and straight into New York’s East Village. the rugged splendors of Misty Fjords National Monument. But over the last ten years have cleared land along an outcropping of has worked in Alaska for 23 years fishing everything from crab in we chose to keep to the east side of Clarence Strait, hugging the rock that overlooks the chuck, on which the couple have built two the Bering Sea to salmon in Southeast Alaska. She was trained as an Well, not really, but the restaurant Rain made for a convincing Cleveland Peninsula and ducking into “the chuck” through a slim beautiful workshops used for their woodworking projects (a lovely engineer and the lore surrounding her is that she has been known stand-in. Its sleek interiors, lush colors and post-modern cuisine cut just north of Meyer’s Island. wooden skiff was a fine testament to their skill). The compound to work on her boat’s engine in the middle of 20 foot seas in the stood out in stark relief against the kind of fare one expects here. also included a wonderful outdoor kitchen and garden, with a Bering Sea. We were surprised and delighted to feast on an outstanding din- And weren’t we glad we did! veranda for dining as well. This is where we gathered to begin what ner of small plates in a tapas style, with a cuisine that also brought would be an amazing afternoon in Meyers Chuck. Both Tomi and Amy helped procure many of the wonderful foods in Asian touches and local ingredients. Shining through it all Meyers Chuck provided great anchorage for our fleet, plus a few we sampled that afternoon, which included king salmon, halibut, was the warmth and talent and good spirits of owners Brian and spots at the dock for rafting. The water was at low tide, with a The focus of this lunchtime event was the natural abundance that is fresh spot prawns and geoduck that had all been donated for the Charmaine, who made sure we were very well taken care of at every couple dozen houses sprouting from the rocks around the bay. The offered by Alaska’s seafood culture, caught by local fishers, crabbers event by local commercial fishermen. Locals Dan and Carol even turn. Booths were packed and owners went from table to table to whole scene was unbelievably quaint and perfect; people remarked and shrimpers. But it was not simply about eating. Representing showed up and added a few dozen crab to the feast. All of this fresh chat about the meal and the day’s excursion. that it could have been a backdrop on a soundstage. Pacific Marine Conservation Council, Amy Grondin spoke to us seafood was lovingly and expertly prepared by Becky Selengut—

Fishing boat outside of Santa Anna inlet

GRANDNORTHERN BANKS CROSSING YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 61 “Meyers Chuck provided great anchorage for our fleet, plus a few spots at the dock for rafting. The water was at low tide, with a couple dozen houses sprouting from the rocks around the bay.”

NORTHERN CROSSING 6367 NORTHERN CROSSING eparting forSantaAnnaInlet Departing feel so remarkable, so memorable. particularly else. They of the Grand are Tour portion what made northern this unique to to impossible of the world, part this duplicate anywhere journey,on this theyare ofatimeand aplace and aspiritthat is Like so many and ofthepeople places and sights we encountered group them right justaway. inlove ourwhole fell with ing; forourevent.workshop They were most also genuine and charm- and warm very, generous us to forallowing very useworking, their Gregfunctional) and ofart. Rebecca are works hard extremely - other timesare spent making fishing; these lovelytheir living (and oftheyear Duringpart inMeyershome and life theymake Chuck. spoke colors.Earlier thetwo beautiful to ourgroup about their and turning them onahuge lathe before Rebecca paints them in in theirworkshop, using from wood stumps that have beenlogged Greg demonstratedAfterward, how hecreates thewooden bowls brought along. and theAlaskan beerthatto theviews, Tomi enjoy thefood, had bottomher flat boat! It was lingered amagical afternoon, and folks freshly baked twenty piesloaded upwith ontoof pulled thefloor hitthetables,Just food another local, Kassie, beautiful this as all an Indian-inspiredwith and roasted rub inawood-burning stove). coated pit, onan openfire lemon-pepperrub over with sake, grilled cooked (steamed ofmethods salmon and using halibut avariety chefoftheGrand Tourofficial force and her own ofnature—who broke the surface, and dove awaydoveand darkening surface,intobroke•• the sea.the Somewhere out inClarence Strait, just spouted, then, awhale

67 NORTHWEST

YOUR GRAND BANKS SPECIALIST IN THE NORTHWEST

AUTHORIZED GB DEALER ELEVEN REASONS TO CHOOSE GBNW AND BROKERAGE YACHT SPECIALISTS 1. 50+ years experience selling new & brokerage boats Grand Banks Northwest is your source for new 2. Sales staff are Certified Professional Yacht Brokers Grand Banks and other pre-owned yachts of 3. Strong record of selling well-respected brands distinction in the Pacific Northwest. 4. Only Authorized GB Dealer in the Pacific NW U.S. 5. Regional & national print, web and event marketing Visit us online at grandbanksnw.com to see our 6. Brand new offices at Salmon Bay Marine Center listings of new and pre-owned yachts, or call to 7. Over 265’ of moorage on modern concrete docks speak about listing your yacht with one of our 8. Easy access to Puget Sound and Lake Washington experienced brokers. 9. Free parking 10. Electric Club Carts to help move gear 11. On-site professional yacht services

S3 MARITIME Authorized Service Center for Grand Banks

S3 is your resource for unparalleled systems, service, and support in the Northwest and worldwide. Our team has the training and the expertise to bring superyacht service to GB owners and all levels of boaters, regardless of the need or location. ANYTHING, ANYTIME, ANYWHERE. Centrally located in For a closer look at our complete menu Seattle to serve the of services, visit S3maritime.com Located near Grand Banks Northwest Puget Sound region at the Salmon Bay Marine Center. and beyond!

S3 MARITIME 2296 West Commodore Way Suite 100 Seattle, WA 98199 P: +1 206-420-4932 The 53 Aleutian RP, commissioned for P: +1 877-S3Maritime GRAND BANKS NORTHWEST Grand Banks Northwest by S3 Maritime Tel: (206) 352-0118 [email protected] grandbanksnw.com 2288 West Commodore Way, Suite 105, Seattle WA 98199 Conveniently located at Salmon Bay Marine Center in Seattle 3 I SLANDS, PORTS, SEAS

If you’ve read this far about the adventures and explorations of other GB owners, you’re probably ready to start planning one of your own. Maybe it’s time to stretch your horizons and try someplace new—fresh sights, different ports, unfamiliar waters, novel experiences.

There’s a whole world of waypoints to be made and coastlines to be cruised in a Grand Banks; grab a chart, a map, a globe and start planning. To get things started, we present three sets of itineraries designed to arouse and inspire your cruising dreams.

GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 69 3 ISLANDS

PHOTO / Mary South T Eternal Allure commerce that ofthegritty Islandsentails. all for theSociety with isn’t This postcard is but it Tahiti, real. It’s the center of business charm. The key to enjoying Papeeteis adjusting your expectations: appointed. Papeete and its environs are and dirty,low on bustling, mooning couplesholding hands, dazed vaguely looking and dis most international travelers to French Polynesia, of honey are full thestreetsfact, ofPapeete, Tahiti’s capital for and thepoint ofentry Paradise notthefirst is impressionvisitor a to have-inwill Tahiti Tahiti above itall. tikis lean reefs; statuesque emerald mountains like loom chia-covered sunshine; sapphire bays and deepcobalt seas are parted- by ceru gorgeous: lagoons Crystal-clear flash jade and turquoise inthe atmosphere languorous is it’s and And sensual. staggeringly still nesia remain unchanged.Its Its and beautiful. are people friendly to themost capitalize aspects important ofFrench onitall, Poly toof media toairplanes getyou it, advertise there, and developers a littlemore than one hundred years despiteago-and the advent Gauguin came to French Polynesia, forthat looking same heaven, heaven probably get. as I’ll those a thousand vistas times in the last decade. It was as close to Idon’tBora. remember butI’ve asingle relived oneofthose books, tocally soak ofTahiti, intheexquisite scenery Moorea, and Bora basking inthesun, and upfrom looking mydeck, reading- periodi mydays—still record—and what Iremember most was sitting on snorkeled, had on atolls. picnics gourmet I read in 10 11 books Went ashore each day of exploration, for an hour or two about ten years ago. We little in those did very ten days: best vacationhe very ofmy was inFrench life Polynesia, 3 I TEXT &SELECTPHOT SLANDS - - - OS /MARY SOUTH great idea. Ourstook us to theBelvedere Lookout, way to getthelay However, oftheland. 4x4tour a also aguided is It’s around 37miles thebase oftheisland and bikes are aperfect tropical weather growing conditions. provide perfect plantations dotthelower volcanic and slopes where therich, soil island and thelush landscape steeply is mountainous. Pineapple clefts Bayat the and Oponuhu top oftheheart-shaped twin form postcard South Pacific-it’s picturepostcard inhi-def. Cook’s Bay Tahiti. You’ll needto brace because isn’t yourself, this just picture- you’reWhen ready, Moorea about is ten to miles the northwest of Moorea delicious and theatmosphere always is festive. there’sname it, is generally it.Thefood probably serving atruck crepes, perchsteak, fish…you chips, pizza, forChinese food, gry loweringsunset, their sidepanels to create counters where thehun- thatmiss lesroulottes-the park onthewaterfront dinner trucks at countless discos ornightclubs. you And definitely donotwant to a nightlife person, you can dance ‘til you drop at oneofPapeete’s it to the Paul Gauguin Museum and the Museum of Tahiti. If you’re tour hike intheValley oftheisland, ofFataua, vis orenjoy aguided water toys to forguests use. But you may want also to take a4x4 Méridien Tahiti) had alarge sandy-bottom of pool and avariety You can, ofcourse, take inyour refuge hotel—mine resort (Le COURTESY OFYACHTING -

73 PHOTO / Mary South

(Moorea, continued) Bora Bora, roughly 140 miles northwest of Moorea, is often de- which has views across the island to Mount Rotui and Cook’s scribed as the most beautiful island in the world. Even James A. and Opunohu Bays. On the way, we stopped at Titiroa marae, an Michener, a man whose best-selling tomes suggested no lack of vo- ancient, stone-girdled clearing once used for community gather- cabulary, once described Bora Bora as “so stunning, that there are ings and human sacrifices. Marae can be found all over the French really no adequate words to describe it.” Believe the hype. Pacific, and the silent, eerie air of this one—tucked in the jungle’s Two extinct volcanos, Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu, are the shade—put me in just the mood for a visit to the local rum distill- towering centerpieces of Bora Bora, which is encircled by a neck- ery, where we stopped next. lace of reef. Cradled between the reef and the island shores is the la- When you’ve had your fill of exploration, treat yourself to a stop at goon—essentially a balmy, crystalline moat that serves as an enor- the Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort and Spa. Whether you decide to mous swimming pool of constantly changing blues and greens. enjoy a spa treatment, a waterfront meal, a cocktail—or, my recom- mendation—all of these, the views over the 10-acre lagoon offer the ultimate sensation of Polynesian ahhh.

In Bora Bora, it’s all about the water—you want to look at it or be in it, all the time. And nature obliges: A launch collects you at the airport to take you to your hotel, which is invariably on a gorgeous beach. Once there, you really need to splurge on an over-water bungalow with a glass floor. Mine, at Le Méridien Bora Bora, also had a deck and a stairway to the water for easy snorkeling or swim- ming access. Book an outing with Shark Boy, where the ridiculous- ly good-looking guide will somehow convince you to swim with stringrays and sharks-and you will love it. At night, you can top off a day like this by taking a water taxi to Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Lagoon restaurant at the St. Regis for some of the finest cuisine in the South Pacific.

The after-effect of many a tropical vacation is mild withdrawal symptoms: a yearning for balmy breezes, soft white sand, fruity drinks with silly names. But a trip to French Polynesia is so far be- yond anything our wee imaginations can conjure that you’re more likely to return to reality with the secret sense that you have been to heaven and, very reluctantly, back.

Bora Bora

GRAND3 ISLANDS BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 73 GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL made and sold seem to have bypassed theFrench. In thepro European Union regulating policies theway is food France, these farmers’ markets are way an important New oflife. Saturday market is day inCherbourg. In over towns andall cities hot and fresh we couldhardly holdthem. sants, pain au pain chocolat, au ofFrench raisin and sticks bread so We returned to theboat munchies ladenforbreakfast: crois with bakery, past offwafts of cafésfreshly giving hurrying roasted coffee. breakwaters. We ashore hopped made and hungrily ourway to the motored into its majestic harbor, protected is which by massive We ofCherbourg and port made onthecommercial landfall ferry Cherbourg ships werecoast, and thenorthbound onourstarboard bow. but as dawn began to we picked break, upthelights oftheFrench to from starboard. port down Midway through noonewas about, shores. Within an hourofourdeparture, heavy traffic pouring was tuckedRiver inside the Isle Britain’s guards of Wight, which south At 6p.m. we set outfrom Buckler’s Hard Marina, ontheBeaulieu Bahamas from Floridato is us intheStates. lands. Crossing thechannelto as is alluring as Brits heading to the yachtsmanfers the British foreignto explore first his opportunity the same ofwater itof body Manche, La itwhat you butcall will, T Old-WorldAn Epicurean Adventure ain from its European neighbors. The French call Channel, that stretch ofwater separating Great Brit France,ern into proudly protrudes theEnglish he Cotentin Peninsula, ofNormandy- part innorth TEXT /CAPTAIN MICHAELJ.HOWORTH 3 P vincial vincial ORTS - - - the sailing route fewdays. forthenext and planned ouritinerary ourcaptain dinner with we Over discussedcoast north. liefarther wayand theperfect to enter France, butthereal crown jewelsofthe of call first port was a and dinedbywonderful candlelight.city The we lunchedoncrêpes,In drank brewed locally Cherbourg, cider selections. Many free offerto delivery your yacht. shopkeepers speaking English, perfect eager to you help make your don’t. Little wonder, then, that of find inthis part Francewill you consider theconsumption ofbrandy and calvados away and oflife Britain and puts sprits, heavy theFrench dutiesonwines While and wine. food boats thebetter theysail, they can take advantage of oftheprices that flock the British side of thewater,to this and the larger the New York’s best delicatessens. It because is ofthese hypermarkets ofBloomingdale’s thequality Mart, and theselectionofsome of store/supermarket that hybrids combinethesizeand valueofWal- Europe, theFrench lead theway “hypermarkets,” with department like stores have Americans to grown love; it’s quite theopposite. In Not French all disapprove inthe huge, foodstuffs barn- ofbuying likelythe French ever cometo creating will fast food. onto tables. Thecharcoal-burning street arebarbecues thenearest ing to past look ashroud ofplastic wrap. Fresh produce heaped is praise of afreshlythe skin plucked free-range chickenhav without ditionally, At the meat you stall, can unpasteurized ap with milk. markets you can prod and poke atcheeses made brie ripening tra- - -

77 3 PORTS specialized sections. passes several neighboring stores and ofcorridors alabyrinth and is lievre, a great-granddaughter of the company’s founder, it encom- trol since1889.Now inthehands ofFrançoise Gosselin Besse- stores Maison is Gosselin, a shop that has con- beenunder family are setfashion beside Prince boutiques. amongst these produce butchers shoulders with and charcuteries,rub merchants and wine produce. Bakeries quality fering what want: locals and fishmongers the past, theyare business highly successful ventures superb at of though they were from a time capsule. pulled Not merely relics of oftradingShops here, astyle unaltered with indecades, appear as The back streets, however, offer the tinyreal gems ofthis town. on tourist tackiness. little emphasis cafés shops, and with harboruseful lined with is ty base your boat to should crew venture wish The pret inland. farther stages. spot The perfect is a but marina, maintained,small well to clever system gates, oflocking ofwater theharbor full attide is all of St. port The from Barfleur,Vaast trip is a short and thanks toa St. Vaast coast. last person to have landed invading asuccessful onBritain’s party as theConqueror. William Nearly 1,000years later, heremains the and aftersucceeded, ascending the English throne, became known liam I, Duke of Normandy, set out to conquer England in 1066. He Itcal museums avisit. was are from that Barfleur worth well - Wil vessel to needs stay afloat. Barfleur’s church andlo well-preserved amidst thelocal fishing craftberth is dock essential onthe if your tinyThis out butdries at low tide,harbor all aquaysideand securing Barfleur,port, required The atournext arrival planning. careful Barfleur quality produce.”quality business venturesful superb atwhat offering want: locals sule. Not merely relics of the past, they are highly success cades, appear as though theywere from atimecap pulled oftradingtown. Shops here, astyle unaltered with inde- back “The streets, however, offer the tinyreal gems ofthis - - - treasures, notjust forthegourmet. depicting theNorman Invasion of1066.The areais of packedfull land town ofBayeux houses treasures such as thefamous tapestry rope from Hitler duringWorld War II.Not far from there, thein- nearby beaches ofOmaha, where U.S. forces liberate helped Eu- Leave your yacht safely tucked away the inthemarina and visit Normandy to slowly should explored be savor its sights and fare. picturesinawell-maintainedries, and artifacts museum. conventional road tires at low. Visitors are rewarded local sto with hou Island, screws at motoring high tideand employing its twin bus. It’s bus, boat part part and makes to hourlytrips nearby Tati- great way these to oyster view to is beds catch onthe“boat- aride where local oystermen oysters farm impressive onatruly scale. A of St. The fortunes shallow,Vaast lieinits long, sloping foreshore, averitable is cellar to and ye shrine shall taste. these liquors.Ask itoriginates.which Iwas notdisappointed. Agated sectionofthe calvados, abrandy made from apples and named fortheregion in I came here forscotch, ofcourse, forFrench butalso brandy and high taxes. can purchase without price, itat afraction ofits typical in Scotland’s highlands. Here, thescotch re-branded, is and you woodento barrels ofsingle-malts import directly from distilleries a cunning marketing loophole, Madame has Besselievre managed areasOther shop are ofthis dedicated to cigars and scotch. Through mersaults. time. Crisp chardonnays stunning sit beside sancerres and honeyed Crates ofbordeaux are and burgundy covered thedusts of with antique iron gates openedonlyby request. stocked amazing vintages. with Some are cellars cordoned off by you to deeplyenjoy thespectacle section,or“cave,” that thewine is cheeses produced allow by local farmers. Eating theircheeses will Don’t pass sampling thecheese soft sectionwithout and hard - - -

79 3 SEAS film film you may terrain recognize thelush, hilly ofSalina from theItalian fromspectacular atop volcano. views thepeak ofits extinct And Nearby Vulcano popular is forits beaches, mud baths, and made ofstone. here, remnantscity with and buildings Greek ofthe original tombs Archeologists have many unearthed remains ofan ancient walled Romans,Greeks, Turks, and even theNormans. Africans, North main town ofthesame name that and along history finds for room Islands alovely thelargest, oftheirappeal. is Lipari part with is epicvoyage),them on his therelative remoteness ofAeolian Named by afterwinds theGreeks of thegod (Odysseus released comes to and and beauty charm, enjoyment. relaxation nearby Aeolian archipelago it can when easily holdtheirown tovisitors region, this but the seven islands that the comprise and Amalfi Capri may capture thedreams and attention of many The the AeoliansExploring Sea: Tyrrhenian a kilometer wide—but it surpasses with an intimate itsurpassesa kilometer wide—but with charm and Panarea may small—just be three kilometers long and less than sky.dusky crashrocks into thewater like fireworks and explode against the the sea from its active volcano; it’s quite ashow to watch white-hot lava ofglowing spurtingfor views from thedomeandinto flowing Aeolians. But around an evening theisland worthwhile cruise is There’s not as much to do on themostStromboli, remote ofthe as much as themovie’s voluptuous heroine. Il Postino offer theserecommendationsforyournextadventureonTheMed… offer Thanks tothelocalknowledgeofGrandBanksownersandenthusiastswhohavecruisedthisareaforyears,we There arehundreds–eventhousandsofalluring destinations within the Tyrrhenian, Ionian and Adriaticseas. around thePeloponnese,cruisingintoGrandCanalofVenice. T , in which theland and sea, inwhich often captivated audiences anchorages ofthisregionthatcomestomind:luxuriatingalongtheAmalficoast,historicsightseeing of thelowerItalianpeninsula.Whenpeoplethinkcruising“TheMed,”it’s oftentheislandsand hree oftheMediterranean’s sevenseaswraplikeajewel-studdednecklacearoundtheplungingneckline 3 S EAS cruising. infrastructure that cruising makesfriendly foreasy and enjoyable are a strong numerous and and with parks moorings, and ports and snorkelinglight, here some is of the best in Greece. There beaches temperatures abound, are generally are and winds mild like the Caribbean,And the area a cruiser’s is paradise. Good theislands angive apt nickname: “the Caribbean ofGreece.” green islandswith dottedpastel-painted, red-roofs buildings— Greece. Theclimate and thecolors—turquoise seas and lush Islands hug thenorthwest coast ofPeloponnesus and mainland Around and opposite theboot Italy’s ofSquillace, Gulf theIonian Island Hopping Through The Ionian Sea as theonebackscene as inport. lively and colorful an abundance oddly-shaped fish make ofbright, theunderwater and formationsunderwater ideal forsnorkeling. visibility Excellent ofPanarellithe rocks andFormice Le offer lovelygrottoes and There’s boatbeauty by of plenty be experienced to here, too; and local merchants cautiously eye each other. as you alimoncello, sitand sip watching chictourists from Rome up along the beach and quay; adds to it all festivity the air ofrustic ofSan Pietro,small port bright-colored fishing with boats pulled picturesque Shops vistas. and restaurants ringthe

81 3 SEAS with ancient ruins and archeological ancient ruins with and has beenfeatured innumerous books and films—Corfu is laden and films—Corfu books Ionians—it provided thesetting “ for Shakespeare’s The Tempest, Perhaps sites, all side by side with its sites, sideby sidewith all sun-blessed beaches. Argostoli the main is harbor and check-in for Kefalo facility andMakris Platis and others along its southern shores. compete forattentionwith its famousbeaches, especially Roman, Venetian striking Like Corfu, and Byzantine ruins chipelago, popular for its innumerable beauties and charms. oneoftheotherKefalonia large is islands intheIonian ar and Garitsa. Kassiopi ouram Kalami, spotssheltered mooring other- good includeKou mooring; updelicious Corfiot delicacies. offersgood It also serving beaches on the Ionion several islands, along with tavernas fanos onthenorthwest coast boasts oneofthebest sandy There are many Agiosvillages,attractive too: Ste- smaller another trademark Island. ofCorfu and Mandolato,everywhere) ablack and white nougat that is (on aliqueurand ofboth asweetin theform preserve sale veal dish) and pastitsada (a veal and pasta dish); Kwat Koum island’s seaside restaurants. sure thesofrito Be (a to try spicy upinmanyand Greek the excellent theyserve ofthe cuisine So therenowned does visitors. hospitality ofits inhabitants, play also nightlifecuisine and fine in their attractingpart Town,in Corfu where elegant architecture, enchanting harmony inbeautiful ancient abound can and modern exist blessed ofhow beaches. the examples compelling Other and archeological its sun- sites,ruins side by sidewith all with is ancient laden in numerous and films—Corfu books setting for Shakespeare’s The Tempest , and has beenfeatured Perhaps thebest-known of theIonians—it provided the exploration here. the environment, adding another layer to ofenjoyment any There’s afascinating also sense of thathuman history infuses thebest-known ofthe ” - - interesting, some ofthecoves seductive.” inDalmatia, cruising need it, and theislands are discretely even exhilarating...Youalluring, alwayswhen you findlee will sailing here afewyears ago, entire “The Dalmatian is scene F. William one ofthebest intheMed. As Buckleywrote after islands that make region ofCroatia this onthesouthern tip past Montenegro and you at arrive Dalmatia, and themany of Otranto to enter theAdriatic Sea; its follow eastern shore ofthemiles north Ionians and you fifty crossCruise the Strait Dalmatia Coast Cruising inthe Adriatic Sea stars. with explodes a cove, drop anchor, and watch as the sun drops and the sky safeages forall toming and snorkelling, enjoy. Then tuckinto enjoy some ofthefinest clear blue seas- inthe world forswim south to oneofthe many smaller, more secluded beaches and beaches, Vrika and Voutoumi. Not to worry, though: cruise habitants, nonetheless attracts many two gorgeousto its even smallerAntipaxos, and quieter less than 200 in- with and sheer cliffs. caves, with thecoastline archesthe west, and bold abrupt, is boats.mooring Around to the east, theshores are gentle; to from theopensea and for and anforswimming excellent trees. The eredbay in cypress is almost completely sheltered nestles inahorseshoe bayLakka flanked by highground cov oftheisland, tip Atthenorthern and Loggos. Gaios, Lakka Paxos has three main located towns, all at natural anchorages: make Paxos seem like onelovely, olive endless grove. ancient olive treesthe half-million that cover theisland and Ionians; its 2,300inhabitants are vastly outnumbered by offer some ofthemost serene and stunning delights ofthe It’s perhaps thesmall islands, like Paxos that and Antipaxos, amagical Mediterraneanvide atmosphere. cafés,old buildings, bars and restaurants combineto all pro enough you can buy freshly caught fish.Atnight thelights, side themore extravagant yachts here, early you and if rise Traditional ofKefalonia. tip ern fishingboats along moor Fiscardo- amore is onthenorth picturesque harbor village bola”) and quincepaste to take homeas gifts. you can buyhoney, pralines (mandoles), (“Ro white wine here. Cheese, are olives some and thespecialties, wines and island makesbut thefertile forgreat shopping at themarkets and theshops may and as interesting notbe varied as Corfu, quay. The maytown notoffer the same charming character, nia; drop your anchor and back orwest inalong thenorth - - - -

83 3 SEAS can rise upindramaticcan rise fashion.” landof beauty: wondrous that stark both with is rock andformations fascinating, that reefs—moved to authorities proclaim thearea anationalBut it’s park. adifferentkind more archipelago—with thanbeauty ofthis singular islands,islets 100 and “The is strictly controlled, butthelarge controlled, strictly is Marina Kornati of offers plenty Anchoring hereing fish amongandcoral. an abundance ofcolorful you mightfashion. imagine, As thepark offers spectacular snorkel- wondrous with rock formationsnating, that upindramatic can rise But it’s adifferentbeauty: kind of land that both is stark and fasci- and reefs—moved to authorities proclaim thearea anational park. more archipelago—with than ofthis beauty 100islands,gular islets amongtia, an amazing group Thesin- theKornati. ofislands called More natural wonders await you edge ofDalma near thenorthern - summer). to thecave see itwhen in uncrowded is you unlikely if visit (highly if you’re unearthly—especially effect thewhole pink; lucky enough light. Below thewater’s calm surface, shimmer and rocks insilver opening to illuminate and ephemeral thecave abrilliant blue with day, forjust about an hour, thesun’s rays penetrate an underwater little attention were itnot for its remarkable Blue Grotto. Near mid- hop southwestA short of Viz lies tiny Bisevo, would attract which youif can spot theItalian coastline far inthedistance. Hum, Vis’ oftheAdriatic for astunning highest and see point, view privatecompete with yachts forspace intheharbor. Climb Mount rants seafront linethepalm-fringed across from fishingboats that list are favorites onVis like Komiza Island, where shops and restau- found here—too many the“must-see” to ofcourse. But list, within you gives some sensewhich ofthenumerous enchantments to be More than athousand theDalmatian islands comprise archipelago, Explore. Dream.Explore. Discover.” you diddo. So, throw offthosebowlines. Sail awayfrom safe harbor. more disappointed by thethings you didnotdothan by the things Or, as Mark Twain “Twenty put it: years from now, be you will for yourself. justyou’ll have to getoutthecalendar and findthetime to see it ofTahiti,exotic isles oranywhere you’ve else dreamt ofcruising, here intheMediterranean, offthecoast of Normandy, among the oftinybeauty Island. Zlarin So much more, that it’s infact, whether Korcula, the lovely bays and beaches around Milna, the unspoiled Thereis much more to see here—the historic sites at Trogir and to boaters thearea. and numerousberths visit services who

85 CHARTERING IN CHARTERED WATERS www.motoryachtchartertahiti.com (689)661-767 Fax: Tel: (689)661-774 French Polynesia 98735 Raiatea BP 909 Motor Yacht Charter -Atara Royal intheSouth Seas.experience aboard an unforgettableRobinson like Crusoe toalways make at be ofyour your stay service tural sites, local celebrations, etc. cul- of visit lagoon and deepses fishing, skiing, waterOn board snorkeling, are activities varied: theTuamotunot, and theMarquesas islands. cific”, “The Bora Bora”Maupiti Small why and, Vanila Island”, Bora Bora “The Pearl ofthe Pa- Island”, RaiateaSacred “The Island”, “The Tahaa, sailing throughwishes, Huahine Savage “The vantage ofaprivate cutomized to cruise, your You, your take family, ad- will oryour friends of Tahaa. ATARA, locatedisland sideofthe onthenorth (islets) including the motu of the same name, (sacred places), stopspriceless on some “motu” plantations, of pearl vanilla farms, visits “marae” color lagoon, encounters local people, with sian colors:dreamlike inturquoise moorings Polyne all - you with live afabulous experience you from island guide to island toand will make come you according to Polynesian tradition, and the hostessThe wel- skipper will and cook ofFrenchgoons Polynesia. unforgettable momentsislands inthe and la- Atara R FrenchHomeport: Raiatea, Polynesia M/Y Atara Royal GB charters give you the opportunity toGB charters you give the opportunity a GBcan an be ideal option. ing chartering range from your homeport, those destinations liefar beyond easy cruis plore and enjoy in a Grand When Banks. less destinations around theworld to ex lands intheSouth Pacific, there are count to azure seas surrounding Italy to exotic is From coastal towns Europe ofNorthern oyal and her crew waitforyou to pass The crew will will The crew - - - - Website: www.gbserenity.com Mobile: +90(532)2054939 +90(242)3234580 Fax: Tel: +90(242)3236680 TURKEY Antalya Lara, No:1964 Sokak 9 Fener Mahallesi HolidayStyluss Designer 24hoursaday.service ourprivateing activities, concierge at is your cultural on land excursions or other excit with wish Whenever to your cruise you enrich fish. ing locally-picked vegetables and freshly hauled international prepared us cuisine by ourcook, ranging art from Turkishamples ofculinary to at savor yourpace, own you delicious ex will green and turquoise Mediterranean and Aegean discoveringWhile the by ourdiscreet staff. enjoy absolute freedom, and to feel pampered and quality, theutmost comfort experience to maintained 52 Heritage EU, at your disposal to and beautifully equipped M/Y Serenity awell is Homeport: Antalya, Turkey M/Y Serenity erations that feature Grand vessels Banks alist ofjustBelow is afewofthecharter op theadvantagesall aGBhas to offer. way to getaboard firsthand and experience Grand chartering Banks, provides agreat For boaters considering the purchase of a (ornew GBmodel onethat’s newto you). iar vessel—or to of a the get wheel behind ply new and unfamiliarseas aboard- afamil garding these operators’ products and services. no claim norholds any liability to their customers re businesses and their operators in any way, and makes GrandBanks. Yachts Banks not is affiliated with these the convenience ofboaters looking to charter aGrand charter operations provided is solely information as for Please note that the information and by about these - - - - www.grand-banks.de/charter Mobil: +49(0)1633303273 +49(0)2014504522 Fax: Tel.: +49(0)2014504521 Essen D-45133 Heierbusch 28 Walter Nautica favorite destination. cruising and themagnificent bays that make this a region Europe,of Northern oftheBaltic thebeauty Sea, local knowledgeto enjoyvide thecoastal towns youon board. can and Our proskipper guide uptocondition forchartering 12people with is inexcellent GB42 This large, well-equipped GermanyHomeport: Lübeck, M/Y Grand 42Classic Banks itineraries. and other recommended guides cruising them directly formore information, local regions highlighted Contact article. inthis inor aroundin theirfleetforcruising the - -

87 Charter from a company that matches the WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN CHARTERING quality of your taste in boats. TEXT / Brian Pemberton, General Manager, Northwest Explorations

hartering a boat can be a fantastic The caliber of charter company that you on the boat works before it goes out on San Juan Islands way to travel the world. It allows are dealing with is usually a good reflection charter? Asking a few questions regarding you the opportunity to explore of the quality of vessel you can expect to the maintenance of the charter boat can thrivingC cities as well as remote anchorages, charter. Take a look at what kind of reputa- make the difference between a relaxed, Desolation Sound commune with nature, and enjoy some tion the company has. What is their com- amazing experience or an anxious one. much needed time with friends and family. pany culture? Are they boaters themselves? Deciding where you want to charter is the From the first phone call, how accommo- You may notice that price has not been Canadian Gulf Islands obvious first step, but often there are many dating and comfortable do they make you mentioned. Of course the price of a charter options to choose from in terms of char- feel? Are they knowledgeable, helpful, and is important. However, it is important to Inside Passage & Alaska ter vessels and charter companies. So how passionate about boating? Can they help take all of the items listed here into consid- do you decide what vessel or from which with itinerary planning? In the event that eration. You may need to pay more for the company to charter? There are several fac- something does go wrong, do they have peace of mind that comes with a quality tors that go into making the final decision a network set up to help within the geo- charter boat company but make sure you of ensuring your charter boat meets both graphical region where your itinerary is look for competitive, fair and consistent your personal needs and the needs of the taking you? What is their policy in case of a pricing. Most importantly your charter local environment. mechanical issue? Like any profession, the decision should feel right. You should feel more pride people take in their work and safe, comfortable and at ease on your char- I. What’s the experience you’re hop- company, the better experience they will be ter boat and with the charter company ing to have? able to provide. you’ve decided upon. Spend your time en- It’s important to determine what you want III. Well-maintained vessels: joying being out on the water with family out of your vacation. Do you want to cover One of the key elements in a successful and friends—not worrying. Remember, a lot of area in a small amount of time, or charter is making sure the boat is well main- you are chartering a boat for fun! take your time meandering to towns and anchorages? Do you place more impor- “You may need to pay more for the peace of mind that comes with a tance on space and comfort, or is speed quality charter boat company but make sure you look for competi- more important? How well equipped do tive, fair and consistent pricing.” you want your vessel and how sea kindly do you need it to be? Are you looking to have a more self-sufficient experience such as tained and kept in good condition. The age with a bareboat charter, be pampered with of a boat is not necessarily an indicator of on-board captains and chefs, or something good boat quality but a strong focus and in between as with group guided flotillas? attention on year-round maintenance is. Understanding what you want out of your What is the annual maintenance schedule charter will help you make the most in- for the charter boats? Is the navigational formed decision and hopefully lead to the equipment kept up to date? Are the interi- best vacation. ors kept clean, modern and fresh looking? How often are the boats dove, painted, and engines checked? Does the boat have a full set of charts for the geographical region? What is the condition of any special ameni- ties onboard? Are the galleys fully stocked? II. Take time to research charter com- Are there crab pots, dinghies, fishing gear, panies and ask questions. etc.? Is it company policy that everything

guided flotillas • bareboat charters • brokerage • training www.nwexplorations.com • 800-826-1430 CHARTERING

NWE_print_SPRAY_Jan11.indd 1 2/14/2011 12:48:17 PM A LEGEND GROWS ARRIVING ON ITALY’S FAMED “RIVIERA LIGURE” THIS SPRING, THE ALL-NEW 76 ALEUTIAN RP WILL DEBUT WITH A STYLISH NEW INTERIOR DESIGN -- THAT STILL MATCHES THE TIMELESS LINES AND RUGGED SEAWORTHINESS ONE EXPECTS FROM THE ALEUTIAN SERIES.

GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 89 A LEGEND GROWS

For those who long to cross the far horizon comes a remarkable Her timeless look and time-tested performance are matched new yacht to take you there and beyond: the 76 Aleutian with an exciting interior design—more contemporary, European RP, flagship of the Grand Banks fleet. Whether your itinerary and stylish than ever before. Smart and sophisticated, this new includes exploration or entertainment, recreation or relaxation, aesthetic brings a more modern look to the Aleutian Series the new 76 Aleutian RP is an unrivaled choice. Stretch your that still upholds her authentic design and timeless nautical voyage to nearly 2,000 kilometers between stops at port, or lines. All with the quality and reliability that has made Grand speed to your next destination at over 30 knots: however you Banks a icon among true yachtsmen for over 50 years. choose to cruise, four generous staterooms and a wealth of handcrafted luxury will usher you there in comfort. < Find out more at grandbanks.com/preview76 >

Grand Banks Yachts constantly seeks to improve the specification, design and production of its boats, and alterations may take place continually. Photos, illustrations, renderings, deckplans, other artwork and their accompanying text may include optional, aftermarket or discontinued features and equipment not currently offered by the manufacturer. Grand Banks Yachts, Ltd., reserves the right to make changes to any information herein without notice or penalty.

GRANDA LEGEND BANKS GROWS: YACHTS 76RP • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 91 A LEGEND GROWS: 76RP models today. andstylingfoundonAleutian model isalsoavailablewiththetraditionalcabinetry with therefinedoveralllookofseriesandGrandBanksbrand.Ofcourse,this 76RP willfeatureonboard:slightlymoreEuropean-contemporary, whilestillconsistent fromtheactualfinal build,theygiveagoodideaofthenewstylethisfirst and mayvary Left: Top left: 76 ofthe renderings Interior AleutianRPproduced bydesigner the convertible office. While these renderings are from the preliminary designstage Whiletheserenderings arefromthepreliminary office. convertible masterstateroom. masterhead.Center: Top VIPcabinwithqueenberth. left:

95 Grand Banks: perché il mare non accetta compromessi Yachting GRAND BANKS ITALIA GRAND BANKS FRANCE Paolo Murzi Ariane Colin Tel: +39 0564 860235 Tel: +33 4 92972211 URL: grandbanks.it URL: grandbanksyachts.fr Jonathan Cooper Photo /

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR CRUISING

The fine ship is smartly outfitted, only those select few possessions We are ready to cast off and go!In this section we share some guaranteed to bring us the utmost pleasure and comfort for our of the places, items and events that caught our attention, the days at sea ahead. On the charts our course is plotted: from port things and experiences we’d like to enjoy on board a Grand to port and anchorage to anchorage, leaving plenty of room to Banks. We encourage you to share your own favorites with us wander, ample time to idle and enjoy. A red “X” marks each and other GB owners: go to facebook.com/GrandBanks and day on our calendar that holds an occasion eagerly awaited, an post your ideas and recommendations. experience we don’t want to miss on our journey. >

GRAND BANKS YACHTING 95 GRAND BANKS YACHTING Make the most of your cruising experience

FROM SEA TO SEA A CRUISE THROUGH THE HISTORIC BOSPHORUS

Short but spectacular, a trip up the Istanbul Strait from the Marmara to the Black Sea provides an overload of wonderment: the bustling and beautiful Golden Horn, six Ottoman palaces, stunning baroque mosques, mighty fortresses, the chic art-and-cafe scene along the village of Ortaköy, luxurious wooden waterfront mansions, the Selimiye Barracks (where Florence Nightingale worked), and the enormous span of the Bosphorus Bridge—just to name a few. Then there’s the city itself, tumbling down to the Bosphorous from high hillsides in a seemingly endless patchwork of neighborhoods. Between its shores, the Strait is chockablock with huge tankers, scores of ferries, and a crazy flotilla of tiny fishing boats that somehow manage to stay upright amidst the colliding wakes of all that traffic. Exotic, historic, scenic and wholly unique, it’s an unforgettable cruise between two continents.

GRAND BANKS YACHTING 97 Make themostofyourcruisingexperience GRAND BANKSY GRAND BANKS YACHTING ACHTING Day—details at woodenboat.org. September,beyond thedocksideexhibits. Every theweekend afterLabor towns,withplentyofgreatfoodand sightseeing and scenichistoricport thatthefestivaltakesplaceatoneofNorthwest’shurt mostcharming the wateranywheretoday—thatmakethisamust-seeevent. Anditdoesn’t 300 ofthemostbeautiful,enchanting andlovingly-craftedwoodenboatson music anddemonstrationshands-onworkshops,butit’s theboats—over boatbuilding while inviting energetic debate about new innovations. There’s andtraditionsofwooden from aroundtheworld,festivalhonorshistory Drawing thousandsofenthusiastsandawho’s whoofwoodenboatexperts PORT TOWNSEND WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL WOODEN WONDERS THE SWISSBIKE XO BIKE ONBOARD folded state.SwissBike XO ($2,439),montaguebikes.com Attheendofride,releaseleverstocollapsebikeits and traffic. suspension fork, and hydraulic disc brakes to meet the demands of both trail folding commuter—it’s atruemountainbikewith27speeds,RockShoxRecon pounds, theSwissBikeXOputsalotofbikeinlittlespace.Butthisisno With a collapsed size of 3 feet by 3 feet by 1 foot and a weight of 27

101 Make themostofyourcruisingexperience GRAND BANKSY GRAND BANKS YACHTING ACHTING Baie St. Jean beach and watch planes take off just 100’ above you. Baie St. Jean beach and watch planes take off Turtle side to dive on the walls off for the north Island. For thrills, lie on head to ShellBeachwithitschi-chiDoBrazil restaurant.Off-season, Snorkel atColombierorAnseSaline.It’s walkfrom Gustavia ashort BEST BEACHES&DIVING protected anchorageforsmalleryachts. quieter anchorage,headfortheouterharbor. ShellBeachalsohasa If youliketoparty, Med-moor atthequay, recentlyrenovated.Fora BEST SPOTINTHEHARBOR comeanyothertime. of thereal,quieterSt.Barths, Bucket.Forataste Come thefirstweekendinAprilforSt.Barths BEST TIMETOGO OFTHEBUCKET BEST ride outtotheirvesselforaLeMans-stylestart. required todrinkadaiquiribeforetakinghigh-speedtender Oneyear,St. Barths. acrewmemberfromeachyachtwas ofthefirstracesaround confrontation. Fishingwasabigpart intoatrash-talking ago afteradrunkencelebrationturned belies thedesignation:firstregattacameabout25years Some callita“gentlemen’s history race,”butacolorful ST. BARTHSRACE BUCKET BUCKET LIST a must. at LeSelect(perhapstheonlyplaceonislandwith$2beers)is view oftheharbor, Gustavia’s try CarlGustafhotel.AndaRedStripe withaspectacular Best placesforadrink:Forsophisticatedmartini BEST SPOTINTHEHARBOR Bartolomeo. foie grasandlobster. acookingclassandlunchat try Off-season, $39prixfixethree-coursemenuthatcaninclude has awonderful Though NikkiBeachandMaya’s arethetrendyspots,K’feMassei BEST LOCALRESTAURANTS drop-dead gorgeousscenery. a must-see event for enthusiasts of sailing, competition, and in theequallystunningvenueofSt.Barthélémy, theBucketis inthe2010race.Based over 100featLOA)participating in spectacle and beauty, with 39 stunning sailing yachts (all What today’s regattaslack in eccentricity they make up for

103 Make themostofyourcruisingexperience GRAND BANKSY GRAND BANKS YACHTING ACHTING across thesebeautifulislands—islikeastepbackintime. town ofSt.James.Unspoiledandunhurried,lifehere—and attractions of Beaver Island itself and the small but ever-friendly and harborspackedintotinyGardenIsland;thevaried High Island;thescenicsolitudeofSquawmanybays Cruise themallandtakeinthesunsetssandybeachesof from theboatingcommunitiesofHarborSpringsandCharlevoix. Michigan andtheanchorofasmallarchipelagojust30miles One ofourfavoritesisBeaverIsland,thelargestislandinLake ofworld-classcruisingdestinationswithintheirshores. worth the thousandmilesinbetween—theGreatLakesholdalifetime’s From the1000IslandstoApostleIslands—andthroughout BEAVER ISLAND, LAKE MICHIGAN BEAVER LAKE ISLAND, ISLAND IDYLL DOUBLE-CLEAT SERVING BOARD TASTEFUL Soundview Millworks (starting at$90),soundviewmillworks.com Soundview Millworks (starting handles andcanbecustomized withlaserengravingonthecuttingsurface. spacewhenroom getstight.Theboardhastwo5-inchcleatsfor to optimizeserving solid mapleandmahoganyand—measuring 7-3/4 inchesby20inches—isshaped boardfromSoundviewMillworksissturdilyconstructedoutof The doublecleatserving Galleyware ($179.99), Set gbshipstore.com plattersarealsoavailable. mug.Serving and coffee washer-safe bone china. Each set includes dinner and salad plates, bowl Pictured at left is our creamy white, break-resistant, microwave and dish- but theymayalsobepurchasedseparatelyatGBShipstore.com newGrandBankswedeliver,and durable.Thesesetsareincludedonevery Banks style:highqualitypiecesthatarebothtimelessandelegant,practical ley-ware, hand-selectedbyourinteriordesignteamtomatchtoday’s Grand Grand BanksYac acollectionofquality,hts isproudtooffer GB-brandedgal - GB-BRANDED BONE CHINA A STYLISHSET LY SERVED .

105 GRAND BANKS YACHTING INTRODUCING Make the most of your cruising experience THE “GRAND BANKS”

Crisp and cool for a hot summer’s day, with a full and intricate flavor that’s just as well suited for chilly nights. The Grand Banks is our signature cocktail, The Grand Banks custom-crafted to match the rich, unique character of Combine in a cocktail shaker with ice: our boats. And like a Grand Banks, the taste—dark • 2 ounces Goslings Black Seal rum (or preferred dark rum) rum, lime, ginger beer and spiced spirits—evokes a • ½ ounce falernum strong seafaring tradition with each and every sip. • 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice Shake vigorously and strain over fresh ice. Float ½ ounce (or to taste) Ginger Beer. Garnish with lime.

What is falernum?

Falernum is a flavored syrup used to highlight rum cocktails. Available in some liquor stores, its recipe—traced back some 200 years to its origins in Bardados—is actually quite simple and straightforward if you choose to brew it up it yourself. Of course, there are hundreds of variations based on personal taste, but here is one we tested and found easy to make (and delicious!) from readily available ingredients:

Galley-brew falernum

• Combine 8 ounces white rum with 40 whole cloves in a sealed jar and soak for 48 hours • Remove lid and add the zest of 9 limes • Add 1½ ounces julienned fresh ginger Re-seal the jar and allow the mixture to soak for 24 more hours. Strain through moistened cheesecloth, squeezing the solids to extract the last bits of liquid.

To complete, add the following, then mix, and serve: • 1/4 teaspoon almond extract • 14 ounces 2:1 simple syrup • 4½ ounces fresh strained lime juice

GRAND BANKS YACHTING 105 Make themostofyourcruisingexperience GRAND BANKSY GRAND BANKS YACHTING ACHTING August—visit mainelobsterfestival.com Marina, thenfollowthecrowdsdowntoHarborPark.Inearly up yourGrandBanksatBeggar’s orJourney’s Wharf End freshest Mainelobsterthatreallykeepuscomingback.Tie more. Butit’s the20,000-pluspoundsofworld’s best, andmuch ship tours,marineheritage,kidsevents,concerts displays,aseagoddessandbigparade,USNavy artist events, TheMaineLobsterFestivalhasitall:cookingcontests, and For authenticsmall-townfunwithbig-timeentertainment MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL THE MAINEEVENT fordetails. BINOCULARS BY ZEISS BINOCULARS NICE VIEW Victory FL 7 x 42 T* Binoculars ($2,200), Carl ZeissOpical, zeiss.com FL7x42T*Binoculars($2,200), Carl Victory for buoysandchannelmarkers. awiderfieldofview forscanningthehorizon tion providesmoreimagestability andoffers toholdsteadyonanimageinarolling sea.The7x42magnifica- of viewandaredifficult is well-suitedtotheneedsofboaters:highermagnificationbinoculars oftenhavetighterfields r excellent clarity of vision, and the midrange magnification These all-purpose binoculars offe

109 GRAND BANKS YACHTING A GRAND AFFAIR Make the most of your cruising experience GB RENDEZVOUS AROUND THE WORLD

Each rendezvous throughout the year—just like the GB The common thread, of course, is a love of all things Grand Owners’ Associations that host them—seems to have its own Banks and a happy pursuit of “the GB Life” – a life that the appealing, defining characteristics. Some are action-packed, many Owners’ Associations around the globe celebrate once with full slates of seminars and activities and predicted log a year at their annual rendezvous events. races; others spool out through the weekend like a relaxed To find information about the GBOA in your region and their and joyful family reunion. Some are marked by zany traditions rendezvous schedule, visit grandbanks.com. kept alive by long-time members, while still others travel each year to new places to seek out new experiences.

Owner’s Rendezvous Gruissan, France

Photo / Jonathan Cooper

GRAND BANKS YACHTING 109 Make themostofyourcruisingexperience GRAND BANKSY GRAND BANKS YACHTING ACHTING busy ChineseNewYear. Be suretomakeyourarrangementswellinadvanceforthe MOORAGE THECELEBRATION FOR color andsoundaboardyourownGB. middle oftheharbouritself,floatingbeneathexplosions best vantagepointforthisamazingpyrotechnicsdisplayisthe sky insyncwiththeirownstirringsoundtrack.Ofcourse,the around halfanhouronthesecondday, fireworkslightupthe skywardsas,for messages ofgoodluckandalleyesturn are decoratedwithredribbonsandstreamersbearing display inVictoriaHarbour. Skyscrapersaroundtheharbour throughout thecity, culminatinginanover-the-topspectacular toafullstop three maindaysofcelebrationbringeverything asinHongKong.The celebrated withsuchgustoandfervor Nowhere aretheancientfestivitiesofChineseNewYear GUNG HAYGUNG FAT CHOY VICTORIA HARBOR NEW YEARIN very goodrepairfacilities,includingitsowntravelift. very anchorage,and the MarinaClubtherehas Bay alsooffers including thetyphoonshelterinCausewayBay. Clearwater On the Hook: haulouts. necessary Repair facilitiesaregoodandthereisalsoatraveliftforany space for cruising yachts. Shelter Cove has more berthing and spaceonfloatingpontoons;theRHKYCfacilityat visitors arewelcomeandthereissomelimitedmoorage Victoria Harbour. facility, Theclub isnotamarinaberth but and facilitiesare on theHongKongIsland side ofthebusy Club isoneoftheoldestinworld.Themainclubhouse Founded over150yearsago,theRoyalHongKongYacht many fineclubsspreadacrosstheislandsandpeninsula. welcome cruisersfromaroundtheworld,andthereare All: it of Center the In

There arevariousanchoragesusedbyvisitors, AllyachtclubsinHongKong

113 GRAND BANKS YACHTING Make the most of your cruising experience

• Terms specifically for GB owners • No survey required for vessels up to 20 years of age • Automatic $1,000,000 liability limit • Competitive pricing, higher limits available • Uninsured & personal effects coverage • Hull & machinery deductible only 1/2 of 1% Info & application online: grandbanks.com/insurance

Exclusive Yacht Insurance Program for GB Owners

HAND TOOLS THE GPSMAP 78SC FROM GARMIN

The helm of your GB may be packed to the rafters with state-of-the-art nav gear, but what about when you step off the boat? That’s when you reach for Garmin’s handheld GPS- Specializing in MAP 78sc. Whether you’re hiking up the shoreline or out exploring the island aboard your tender, the rugged 78sc is loaded with features to help you get your bearings and custom yacht keep your fix. models GPSMAP 78sc includes preloaded U.S. coastal charts, with the ability to easily add more from Garmin’s wide array of detailed marine, topographic and road maps. It has a high-speed USB interface, is NMEA 0183 compatible—you can even share with other compatible device users the wealth of waypoints, tracks and routes it stores, all by wire- less connection.

With its high-sensitivity, WAAS-enabled GPS receiver and HotFix™ satellite prediction, GPSMAP 78sc locates your position quickly and precisely and maintains its GPS location even in heavy cover and deep canyons. And with its barometric altimeter, you can plot barometric pressure over time to help keep an eye on changing weather conditions.

And it floats!

Garmin GPSMAP 78sc ($549.99), garmin.com Visit us at seacraftclassics.com or call 800-356-1987

GRAND BANKS YACHTING GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL an AmericanMarinemotor sailor. right: Marine yardonJunkBay, HongKong.Upper ding. It wasthesamewatchIworeatmywed - Omega watchhegavemyfatheryearsago. and treated him like a son. I still have the gold Newton loved my father’ssailboat. Robert work of a40-footSparkmanandStephens-designed It wastakeninthelatefifties,atlaunching Newton’sstanding toRobert rightinthisphoto. picture IhaveofmyfatheratAmericanMarine, top: Opposite, THE FUTURE TRADITION SHAPES My grandmotherholding usatthehelmof bottom: Opposite, PHOTOS /SHINGKONG &CAPTIONS This isprobablytheoldest The originalAmerican them here with his own notes own his them hereand recollections… with tos yard from this graciously passed who shares to son, Shing, his MarineAmerican inHong ofpho collection His Kong. wonderful eventually went who on to production become managerKong, for boatbuilders theNewtons was working engineer with Joseph course,Of theydidn’t doitalone. team Among theoriginal of inHong village of asmall fishing Kong. boat, out the dreams of one sonsman along andtwo the shorehis not always boat knowbegan—and where how itall by itwas built, today’s buyers know ourbrand that and all itstands forthey may ofthat dreamthe ultimate foreach fulfillment newowner. While For over halfacentury, thepurchase ofaGrand has Banks marked the sea. new innovation. It connectsus to thetimeless dream oftaking to O world. Itworld. ouriconicdesignsand inspires informs each resides shaped, and atborn, still ofthecruising theheart ur past where we are defines today. Grand was Banks -

117 TRADITION SHAPESOUR FUTURE 5 1 4 2 3 6 SCENES FROMJUNKBAY Hong was closed forgood. onlyinwood, Kong built yard, which the company evolved entirely to yachts fiberglass the Junk Baylegendary. truly factory That until era continued though thesixties But ofcourse itwas theproduction trawlers as Grand known that Banks made establishedquickly custom as itself aquality boat ofhigh regard. builder Eldridge McInnes, Angleman and Davis, Nat Hunt Herreshoff, Ray and others. It theyard toryachts, built thedesignsofSparkman Stephens, Garden, William From rule-beating sloops to clipper-bowed ketches to heavy displacement moto boatbuilding legend. acres 475feetofwaterfront with onJunk Bay for$100ayear—and thus began a Marineand American Ltd., aHong It Kong corporation, was formed. leased two soonjoinedtheNewton team,launched months at after asmallWhit profit. six employee The and anfisherman. boat order sport was fora34-foot successfully NewtonsThe rented two asmall space one and set upshop inKowloon with had alreadyRobert established intheHong himself Kong business world. leap boats building offaithandto decided foraliving. try John graduated a degree from Berkeley in business, with he andfather his took a from small catamarans use.everything forfamily In to cruisers 1956,after 40-foot ing J.the name ofRobert Newton had alove ofthesea and akeen talent forboatbuild- Before there was Grand Yachts Banks oreven Marine, American an engineer by — both of which he passed of which both Growing to up, sons his John theybuilt and Whit. — built inSingaporebuilt —and the - 6 4 5 3 2 1 drink delivery truck. drink delivery My father, inanow-defunct Bireley’s soft launched. timeanewboat which theyoncedidevery to thankTin Hau,theGoddessofSea, Employees preparingafeastandfireworks trial onJunkBay. A photoofmeasayoungboyonGBsea of aGB. and myfather, JoeKong,ontheflybridge Whit Newton,DocGinter, Chuck Hovey, yard inHongKong. The entrancetotheoriginalAmericanMarine time. wonderful who lovedGrandBanks,thatwasreallya was readytobelaunched.Foralittlekid lars andcheckwhetheranewGrandBanks after school I woulduse my father’s binocu- the boatyardafewmilesaway. Eachday Bay. FromthebalconyIcouldlookdownto The viewfrommyfamilyhomeaboveJunk

119 TRADITION SHAPESOUR FUTURE world–including andpassagesaroundthe many oftheoriginal fleetcruisinginports Chantyman model at HongKongintheearly1960s.You canstillfind Legacy inwood:beforetheGB36,American Marinebuiltthe35-foot Plowman, shownhereinPuget Sound,Washington. 2 1 1 7 4 to make the initial carving ofthekeel. to maketheinitialcarving oldest ofallwoodcraftingtools,was used A specialtoolcalledanadze,oneofthe had tobealignedforproperstrength. was thenaturalgrainofwood,which Among themanyfactorstobeconsidered thekeel. of woodlargeenoughtoform apiece fir werelaminatedtogethertoform in the1960slargepiecesofwhiteoakor was builtoutofasinglepiecewood.But and talloldtreeswereabundant,thekeel Building thekeel:Whenboatsweresmall BUILDING THEWOODENBOAT FROMTHEKEEL-UP 6 5 4 3 8 5 2 seams tokeepthewaterout. caulking compound were hammered into caulked, a process where cotton fibers and The seamsbetweentheplanksmust be covered withawoodplug. each fastenermustbecountersunkand In ordertokeepthehullplankingsmooth, fasteners. planks wereinstalledontotheribswith With thekeelinplace,Philippinemahogany and thestemwasinstalled. The ribs were then connected by thechine 9 8 7 9 6 3 Building therudderpostfora36. caprail upnearthebow. scroll thatwillconnectthehandrailto Here amastercarpentershapestheteak puzzle. the boatlikeagiant3dimensionaljigsaw wascustombuilttofitinside All thefurniture

121 Far left: Original plans for the Chantyman, a 35-foot displacement trawler and precur- sor to what was to come.

Left: Prototype Spray, on the water

This page: The Cutty Sark schooner in Puget Sound, Washington.

NOTABLE VESSELS BUILT IN HONG KONG BY AMERICAN MARINE

Cutty Sark Chantyman models American Marine commissioned by the Newtons in 1962 By all accounts, the Cutty Sark is the first in built in the early 1960s, Plowman was res- and launched the following year. While a series of ten sailboats built by American cued in 2005 by a retired schoolteacher and the decades that followed saw thousands Marine under the model name Mayflower. avid Pacific Northwest boater (see photo of Grand Banks built in the fashion of its Designed by Hugh Angleman and Charlie previous pages). Dedicated to preserving sensible and workman-like design, the boat Davies, she is a yacht that screams of explo- history by taking a trawler and turning her itself lived on in the care of several devoted ration, use, and salt. Indeed, Cutty Sark has into a modern, capable cruiser without sac- and respectful owners. Recently, Spray was had a rich 50-year history of sailing from rificing her important heritage, he lovingly acquired by a retired academic in Maine, Hawaii to California, and among the many and painstakingly overhauled, repaired and who has embarked on a multi-year jour- nooks and crannies of Puget Sound. She refurbished the old wooden pilothouse ney to restore this history yacht to her full has served as a workboat, sailed with the motoryacht. Today it is his pride and joy, glory. See Spray Volume 10, Number 1 for historic Tall Ships (she even has her own and the star attraction wherever she goes. more of the story, and watch for updates in registration in their annual guide), endured See Volume 6, Number 3 and Volume 7, upcoming issues. You can also follow along harsh winters in Juneau, and helped edu- Number 1 of Spray for the full story. on the owner’s own web site, bhwooden- cate kids for fifteen years. Learn more about boat.com. Cutty Sark and her former owners in Vol- ume 6, Number 3 of Spray.

Spray Perhaps the most famous among a long line Plowman of notable originals from American Ma- One of the limited collection of 35-foot rine, the Ken Smith-designed Spray was

TRADITION SHAPES OUR FUTURE 121 n amazing archive of stories and photos about long- past and near-present times at Grand Banks Yachts is easily available to download from our web site. JustA visit grandbanks.com/spray to find the online library of Spray and American Marine News magazines, a collection that dates back to 1970. Informative, enlightening and widely entertaining, this library gives GB owners and enthusiasts a year-by-year look into the rich and unique history of our company and the people who worked here—as well as the boats they built, the people who cruised them, and their adventures all across the world.

This is truly a one-of-a-kind resource for boat lovers of all stripes, available for quick and easy download to your laptop, iPad or mobile device. If you have one of the back issues currently missing from our library and would be willing to lend it for scanning into the collection, please email spray@ grandbanks.com.

TRADITION SHAPES THE FUTURE 123 PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ Text by GB Service Director Fran Morey Text PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROPROOF OF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ POSITIVEPROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO F+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO henOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR the management team of Grand Banks first OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+P operatedROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ a Zeus-equipped boat in Ft. Lauderdale PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF +PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROO severalF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PRO years ago, it was immediately clear that OF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PR podsW would be OOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+Pbig part of our industry’s future. Then, as our ROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+PROOF+ development team began to wrap their hands and heads around this new remarkable propulsion system, we all had lots of questions for Cummins MerCruiser Diesel—especially about service. What happens when there is a problem with the drive? Who can fix the system? How is maintenance different than on our shaft-drive models? And just how does it all work?

GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL 125 PROOF POSITIVE: ZEUSPOD DRIVES ease of servicing, and thetremendous ease ofservicing, “Many have articles - beenwritten hail the perspective of customer service, I the perspective ofcustomer service, am a true believer inits reliability,am atrue its product support from at thepeople product support But when I look at Ilook But thesystem when from ing all oftheamazinging all features and benefits of these pod drives. All of All benefits drives. ofthesepod Cummins “ Diesel. MerCrusier which is well and good. and good. well is which reoccurrence ofthe problem. Butleak. in each case repairs were easily made and we saw no • As with any new completed the problems were resolved. that did software experience problems. Once the updates were system, and we had acouple ofboats without these updates conti CMD • was installed the problem was corrected. cause the autopilot to malfunction. Indeed, link once the NEMA electronic stations. We found this communication break could neglected cable to include between the upper aNEMA and lower • In three boats wit to its promise. So letsabout talk those 19boats inthefield: tobegin see just newpropulsion how this system well has lived up to history With back look over years on, we two can now of service 46 Eastbay we have SX, sent 19Zeus-powered boats into thefield. Since Grand launched Banks the41EU,powered and now theZeus- HitsZeus The Water Centers.Dealers Service and Authorized training ourAuthorized conducting sessions worldwide with In addition, Grand recognized needforfield Banks itssupport, own diagnostic directly to support thecustomer. provides location parts and offers and logistics, over-the-phone customers helps network support locate facilities, support warranty insidetheUS both days and internationally. aweek, Theirproduct boats can contactof Zeus-equipped center acall 24hoursaday, 7 owners aresult, all drive. As theZeus to network service support CMD made asignificant investment intraining theirproduct the company prepared and pods, to with newmodel this equip consideration important wasas a very support After-sales service and operation before being placed into service. Each engine must and pod meettheCMDstandard forinstallation tothe factory installations review andstart-up conduct sea trials. Wally Kafer. Wally based is inAustralia and makes to regular trips Manager, by reviewed ourCMDSupport is Grand factory Banks installation ofthenewsystem. Today, CMDinstallation at every the A spent many CMDintraining hoursworking forthe with took several shape duringthenext months, Grand Banks the41 model, HeritageZeus-equipped EU,s ourfirst nually updates the software for their Smart Craft engine there was the occasional oil and or water h ow h ner-installed electronics, the installers product support from at thepeople product Cummins support Diesel. MerCrusier and thetremendousbeliever inits reliability, its ease ofservicing, atI look the systemI standpoint, am a true from a purely service when But and is good. which well of All benefits drives. of thesepod havearticles ofthe amazing beenwritten all hailing features and and from reliability Grand Yachts Banks and its customers. Many system theZeus highforitsOverall, performance hasmarks yielded propulsion orcontrol problems. finger-pointing by various when itcomes technicians to solving harness and propellers, comefrom source. oneparts No more ONE person. Moreover, including oftheparts, theelectrical all throttleby controls associated and all wiring canbe serviced means theengine, transmission,and shift autopilot, unit, drive thepropulsion package Zeus, This But self-contained. with is on… problem and you needahydraulic specialist.” so onand so And would at look electrician theboat and say, “Sorry, that’s asteering problem and Ican’t that, you need an electrician.” fix Then the and the engine mechanic would say, “Sorry, that’s an electrical I can’t tell you how many timesacustomer would have aproblem would needto find an electronic technician. needed atransmission theautopilot if specialist; didn’t work you you needed an engine mechanic; the transmission if didn’t shift you and resources. logistics support Typically, theengine was if broken spent many hourshelping dealers and customers locate product- at CMD.commitment by thefolks Early inmy career GB, I with On apersonal note, Ihave impressed the service beenwith very coverage in both cases provided new pods.) and could have been put back into However service. the insurance CMD. (Note: the sheared-off pods were later recoveredby divers to the and design engineering teams from both Grand and Banks broken without any damage to the hull. This isatrue testament pods and the hull and performed asdesigned, the shear bolts were could come and bring them back In to port. both instances the second boat lost both pods and anchored until atowing service and was able to return to its marina on one engine and pod. The pods were sheared away from the hull. One boat lost one pod t of know We • product-support standpoint has positive. been very questions and possible problems. The feedback here from a Customer Support Line to answer owner/operator-related a few i of know Wedo • wo incidents where boats struck bottom and the nstances in which owners used the 24/7

129 ZEUS POD CARE 101 As with all propulsion systems, adherence to the maintenance schedule for your Zeus drive will helps to ensure its proper and continu- ing performance. In addition to routine checks on drive fluid levels (steering actuator, trim tab, gear lube and transmission) at each day MAKE THE MOST OF LIFE’S JOURNEY start and when refueling, owners of Zeus-equipped models should also perform the following scheduled maintenance when noted:

EVERY TWO MONTHS • Check the battery connections and fluid level. • Treat the power package components inside the boat with Corrosion Guard to protect the product from corrosion. • Ensure that the gauges and the wiring connections are secure. Clean the gauges (every two months or every 50 hours, whichever occurs first. If operating in saltwater, the interval is reduced to every 25 hours or 30 days, whichever occurs first).

TASK INTERVAL MAINTENANCE

To be performed after the first 25 hours of operation and not To be performed every 500 hours of operation, or, once a to exceed 30 hours of operation. year—whichever comes first • Change the transmission oil (fluid) and filter, including the • Lubricate the propeller shaft splines and tighten the propeller transmission oil in the drop box, if equipped. nuts to specification. • Change the gear lube in the drive gearcase and gear lube moni- • Inspect the hydraulic system fittings and hoses found on the tor. (The task can be performed with the vessel in the water.) drive for leaks or damage. Check the hose fittings for tightness. • Check the bonding (continuity) circuit for loose or damaged connections. Test the MerCathode® unit output. To be performed every 250 hours of operation, or, once a year—whichever comes first • Inspect the electrical system for loose, damaged, or corroded fasteners. Check for lose, damaged or corroded wiring and • Tighten the driveshaft connecting bolts and nuts to connectors. specification. • Inspect the cooling system components found on the drive • Inspect and lubricate the driveshaft slip‑joint. for damage or leaks. Check the hose clamps on the hoses for • Inspect the driveshaft ‑U joints; lubricate if equipped with tightness. grease fittings. • Check that the water inlet openings on the seawater pickup • Change the gear lube in the drive gearcase and gear lube are clean and not obstructed. monitor. • Inspect the exhaust system connections on the drive for • Change the transmission oil (fluid) and filter, including the damage or leaks. Check the hose clamps on the hoses for transmission oil in the drop box, if equipped. tightness. • Treat the power package components inside the boat with Corrosion Guard to protect the product from corrosion.

To be performed every 1,000 hours of operation, or, once every two years—whichever comes first • Replace the driveshaft U joints.

PROOF POSITIVE: ZEUS POD DRIVES EQUIPPED ESSENTIALLY GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL TEXT /LARRY CROUCHPHOTOS /JONATHAN COOPER TOOLS THAT EVERY BOAT OWNERS SHOULDCARRY ABOARD. RYSERVICE WEIGHSIN ON THEESSENTIAL GURU CROUCH LAR I but can offer quick solutions to trickyproblems.” They cannot takefunction. theplacewrench ofthecorrectly-sized or socket, like Vise hemostats, Grips, and multi-tools because have theyall more theone “You see inthese photos anumber oftools tasks. thatI will multiple perform disconnecting recommend lines.Ialso youallows to measurewithout amp flow including that ainductive coil functions, aboard. Themeter Ilike has a number of becoming themost tool important complicated. A basic volt meter rapidly is Boat electronical systems are increasingly length listed onthesales bin. store to as well make sure are theparts the measure. Iusuallytake to thecaliper the to squint atthose onatape marks all measure having the depth of holes without orstandarda metric size, and quickly for boltsand screws,if figure outyouneed measure inside and outside dimensions sure to getjustYou what needed. is can frustration. With little this tool you canbe A simpledial has caliper saved mealotof or the wrong diameter. too short, too long, Often I havebought fasteners that were gettingis materials that areright the length. working on it). Oneproblem Ioften have one time(hasn’t happened butI’m yet, still thepiratesto visit at themarine store just so that itneeds I have Ihave everything Ilike to Istart aproject, make sureWhen and make your work alittle easier. common tools that inthe gaps might fill arefollowing on afewtips thenot-so- just don’t have what we The really need. pliers. However, itoften seems that we screwdrivers, sockets, and afewrusty includes thebasics such as wrenches, think most us have atool set that next page).next Also, I find the lighter-weight replaced such as theGerber (pictured gate, so Iprefer atool that more is easily have to leave security them at theairport Itendexpense. to lose these overboard or theirdrawbacks are well; weightvery and from Leatherman andare SOG designed screwdriver amust. is The stainless tools cutters pliers, multi wire toolgood and with those items Ihave A foundreally useful. but donotdeliver, Ihave includedonly and moneyontools that make great claims theirweight.worth Having wasted time always fortools looking that are literally hand tools, notmuch room left so I is am from job to job. By thetimeIadd basic too itbecomes 25 pounds, heavy to tote that my when tool bag roughly exceeds solutions to trickyproblems. Ihave found butcan orsocket, wrench offer quick cannot take theplace ofthecorrect sized havethey all They more theonefunction. hemostats,grips, and multi tools because tools tasks. thatIlike multiple Vise perform You see in the photos a number of will are tools have we should all aboard. think a voltmeter and basic guide electrical Electrical Manual to your ship’s library. I Calder’s I recommend adding acopy ofNigel up onyour basic knowledge electrical understood before use. If you needto brush read should carefully be instructions and a bitmore complicated than most and the and clips pointedboth probes. This is tool Boat Owners Mechanical and with other Grand owners. Banks with please let us know so that we can share it If you have aspecial tool that really works, little room and alotofvalue. packs asocketis and set. driver This tool takes up from tool pictured anifty is Nebo,which easier construction onmyalloy Also belt.

133 made ofnon-corroding surgical stainless steel. are and best ofall for soldering orgluing, vise can grab that errant screw, used be as aclamp or ofsizesand shapes. They variety come inawide the operating room. They are and inexpensive shows because theyhave so many uses outside ucts have beenshowing upmore often at tool thelastOver fewyears these great medical prod- Hemostats often seem to needthree hands. shacklesing ordeckhardware, with you when Mini Vise are forwork Grips useful extremely seen here. noseincluding variety theneedle sizes and jaws. Irecommend at least three types of clampingvariety Grips, pliers comeinawide Commonly under thetrade known name Vise Clamping Pliers ofprobes. note types Also thetwo and an inductive amp meter, just to name afew. AC operation, and DC out, resistance meter, featuresnumber ofuseful including digital read- The voltmeter pictured here incorporates a Voltmeter ESSENTIALLY EQUIPPED PICK &PACK THEESSENTIALS 6 1 3 2 - mess; use reamsfolks ofpaper towel to swab upthe notleaking.Itpart notuncommonto is see I know that Ihave areasonable chance ofthe perimeter Iam working ofthepart whole on, ter.” sealant squeezes outaround the When mytrim, mottois “the morebet the caulk apieceofdeckhardwarecaulking down or tool forcaulking projects. Ifa primary Iam of thebest boat toolis valuesaround. This For may less this dollars, than two one be Knife Putty in making bimini frames. thematerial asis this mosttubing, often used your local canvas maker pieceof1” forashort easy to find at thelocal hardware store.Ask deal leverage. ofextra are grips Chain vise fits over the givesgreatend ofthepliers a and less steel tubing used as a“cheater” bar: itjust in these photos. Note the1”pieceofstain- shaftemergency break or shafttool as seen unusual problems. They aregreat also as an are grips theanswerChain to vise many was too large foryour wrench? biggest pipe budge it?How fitting hull that about athru at orso stuck that nostrap would wrench Have you ever had filter an oil so hard to Chain Vice Grips 6 4 get - extra leverage.”extra of thepliers andagreat gives deal of cheater bar: itjust fits over the end of stainless steel tubing used as a photos. Note theone-inchpiece break orshaft tool as seen inthese are great also as shaft an emergency to many unusual problems. They “Chain Vise are Grips theanswer an inch.The arm reads inchesormillimeters. dial readout in fractions is or thousandths of side diameter, inches.The and depthupto six tool chest. It can measure quickly length, in- making itagreatvironment, boat’s fitforthe or corrode in a dampnot warp en- will body quick and accurate. plastic Thehigh quality plasticThis dial caliper makes measur Dial Caliper rust. plastic orgelcoat, cleans easily, andnot does problems notscratch and stains. Also, itwill me,Believe theplastic can save knife alotof pecting itto bolted even outwhen down. puttingbead a ofandex on the caulk part spread caulk onflat surfaces as opposed to Also,clothes, petsorwives. usethe theknife spread other fittings, to your hands, thedeck, themess not does gently theexcess lift caulk, however, by using knife aplasticto putty 5 ing - 5 1 2 4 3

135 MORE ESSENTIALS

Packing Tool 1 Nebo® Socket Kit 3 Infrared Thermometer 4 These simple corkscrew devices make remov- This tool is not a cheap gimmick, as so many Easy to use, this point-and-shoot device mea- ing packing from traditional stuffing boxes universal tools are. This is a high quality— sures the surface temperature of any object 1 2 much easier. They come in a number of sizes though relatively inexpensive ($25)—sock- with out having to touch it. This is very use- and are available at most marine supply houses. et set that swivels, ratchets, and has just the ful in troubleshooting anything that is tem- right amount of driver tips to handle most perature sensitive. Measure or monitor the small jobs. temperature of water lines, sea water intakes, Gerber® Multi-Tool fuel lines, freezers, air conditioner supply and 2 This Gerber® has a good blade and pliers with returns, and electrical wiring harnesses to wire cutter. The screwdriver bits are the right name just a few. size and the alloy construction is lightweight and durable. This tool is also less than half the price of its stainless steel competitors sold in marine stores.

“... the miner’s lamp is an absolute necessity for over-40 boaters. Adjustable brightness and lamp angle coupled with hands-free operation make this a very useful addition to any toolkit.”

Miner’s Lamp 5 It is a little ironic that as I have learned more about working on boats, I have become less able to see what I am working on. Low light situa- 3 4 tions make it hard for old eyes to focus, so this handy miner’s lamp is an absolute necessity for over-40 boaters. Adjustable brightness and lamp angle coupled with hands-free operation make this a very useful addition to any toolkit. Plus, my kids love to play with it.

ESSENTIALLY EQUIPPED 135 GRAND BANKSGBCOMPANY YACHTS NEWS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL NEWS COMPANY Up top, finda you’ll large and well-designed handcraftedfurnishings. generousvisibility, accommodations, signature below, she’s much like her predecessor: great 46 Eastbay that made its debut oneyear ago. Down Zeus-powered ofthe model flybridge 46FB—the Spray A REVIEW OFTHE46EASTBAY SXAS SEEN INYACHTING READ ALLABOUTIT LAUNCHING SOON:THENEW46EASTBAY FB the original Hunt-designedthe original 38Eastbay brought EX “Like the45,new46has thesame classic lines of associated installation. pod-drive with 45 Eastbay, theincreased onlywith maneuverability Hunt modified Associates-designed oftheold V-hull you thesame getis C. Raymond What concerned. the game as far and as handling performance are changesfrom Cummins which Diesel, MerCruiser Eastbay powered is propulsion by system theZeus But thenew46 express East-style cruisers. Down “Sportiness often notamodifier is associated with readers are getting afirstlook here atthenew to enjoy thesunshine. leaving open still plenty below—while the cockpit overhang measure provides agood ofprotection to quadrantthe aftport of the bridge, and the entire surrounds a largehand-made L-settee teak table at room foran optional second oneto starboard. A with acenterline flybridge, Stidd helm seat and and aft windows and and aftMan Ship hatches overhead panels, thelarge side windshield with excellent from thehelmis Visibility cruising. comfortable seat for more and a smaller yes, wheel and, sportier standup helmofits predecessors foraStidd helm Inside, the traditional eschews the46also look. raked stanchions that the profile a give sportier the aft ofthedeckhouse corners and theforward- such as theradial at tweaks windows with concept, amorelends contemporary feelto East theDown to market in1993.But the46 like the45before it, grandbanks.com/46FB announced newEastbay, visit: For drawings and morejust- ofthis details remarkableof this system pod-drive from CMD. pinpoint maneuverability the other benefits and all vessel from theupperand both lower helm—plus controlsZeus to you give joystick command ofthe Like the 41Heritage EU, the46FBhas dual-station issue ofYachting Read 2011 thecomplete intheFebruary article panels to break uptheteak bulkheads.” lightens the ambience by belowdecks adding soft increases theinterior vibrancy. Grand also Banks retractable sunroof inthesalon overhead only that bathe the cabin in natural light. The optional .

139 Dassault Falcon Jet Corp. dfjc111661a Proof 1 THE POWER OF BEAUTY

SERVICE CENTER TRAINING Grand Banks Authorized Service Centers are selected for their high caliber service and high quality of work. But that’s just the start. Grand Banks runs a rigorous Factory Training Program designed to ensure that all equipment installations, yacht maintenance and other service work performed by our ASCs meets the same exacting standards we apply to our own work and every boat we build. COVER TO COVER Our most recent session included 18 managers and technicians from ASCs and service The new 72 Aleutian SC isn’t just turning heads, departments at Authorized Dealers—all coming from across four continents around the it’s turning up on cover after cover of some of the world. The program included updates on GB manufacturing techniques, plus hands-on top yacht and boating publications. Late last technical seminars for a variety of new equipment. Wally Kafer, customer support manager at year the 72SC graced the covers of Southern Cummins MerCrusier Diesel, ran hands-on demos for operating and servicing CMD Zeus Boating (September), Yachting (October) and engine and drive systems utilized in the 41 Heritage EU and 46 Eastbay models. Sea (November), and garnered other coverage in Before they were certified by Grand Banks, each attendee had to pass a comprehensive test major boating publications in the U.S. and around to demonstrate their skills and knowledge of “the GB way.” And, of course, everyone passed the world. with flying colors. Congratulations to all! “Only a handful of builders know how to make a boat with an extended range that is also comfortable and safe. Grand Banks is one of those builders.” Sea

“Thoroughly modern classic.” Yachts Int’l

“Her looks were timeless, and the attention to detail was what we’ve come to expect from this nearly 55-year-old builder. You package this together with a thoughtfully designed coastal cruiser, and it’s safe to say that this is a worthy addition to the Grand Banks family.” Yachting

THE INCREDIBLE FALCON 7X

Its smooth skin and sleek aerodynamics were designed to fly you 5,950 nm with unequalled

BIG NEW SHOWROOM AT WALSTROM MARINE efficiency. Its tri-jet configuration optimizes short-field performance letting you go where other Walstrom Marine, GB Authorized Dealer for the Midwest United States, is putting the finishing touches on a new $2 million sales showroom. This beautiful new jets its size can’t go. Its Digital Flight Control System is a revolution in smooth flying comfort in facility, which will also house Wasltom sales and corporate offices, is located just across the street from their current parts and service center in Harbor Springs. It includes large glass doors along the south side of the showroom that will open to the lake and the new floating docks installed to showcase boats for sale. an incredibly quiet cabin. None of this was designed to make your 7X the most beautiful plane in Look for this grand new facility to open in April. If you’re in the area, stop by the showroom at 501 Bay Street; for more information on this and other news from Walstrom Marine, visit walstrom.com. the sky. And yet…

The Art of Flight Visit us at falconjet.com/7X

GB COMPANY NEWS

Spray Trim: 8.875 in x 10.875 in Bleed: .25 in features we’ve beenable to designinto aboat size.” ofthis Grand “People Banks. are clearly excited about thetremendous amount ofroom and where she’s been on display,” said David Hensel, Director of Brand and Marketing for hasnew model generated, here both in Düsseldorf and at shows around the world from over “We’re 60countries. positive reactions thevery pleased extremely this with Once again was the53RP ashowstopper and oneofthetop draws among visitors boats,with gear equipment, and otherboating-related filled displays. theworld’s Düsseldorf, was Boot halls largest 17giant exhibition show indoor with toof thenew53Aleutian RP boat show audiences Europe. inNorthern The venue Grand Yachts Banks joinedGBNederlands/Kremer Nautic forafirst-class showing OUT OFTHEWATER, MAKINGASPLASH GB COMPANY NEWS overhead.” andchunkygrabrails proved…The layoutworkssuperbly andisdesignedwithseafaringtypesinmindsolidly builtcabinetry trawler yachtisjustashappypotteringaroundsunnybaysit isthunderingintoanoceanswell asourseatrial “This formidable livability, itexceededmyexpectations.” and aboutitsmanyfeatures,itbecameevenmoreappealing…Incomfort andasIlearned the layoutwasimmediatelycomfortable the53AleutianRP,“When IsteppedaboardGrandBankslatestoffering, itfeltlikecominghome.Ithinkwastheboat;itssizeand throw itsway.” confidenceinitsabilitytohandlemostthingsthesea could the 53copedwithconditionsonthisseatrialshouldgiveowners every ofaseriouscruisingyachtbutwhichcanalsoactit.Theway be enhancedbyknowingtheyhaveaboatthatnotonlylooks thepart would andthatcomfort of itssizenowonthemarket.Acouplecouldliveaboardhereformonthsatatimeinconsiderablecomfort, “I foundthisnewadditiontoGrandBanksbesimplybrilliant…Overallthe53AleutianRPrepresentsoneoffinestcruisingyachts new itspaces.Here have say: issomeofwhatthey modelthrough to putthis to have many andeditors been aboard lastfall, boatingexperts 53RP debuted Since the HIGH PRAISEFORTHE53ALEUTIANRP —HugoAndreae, —DagPike, Motor Boating(NovemberMotor 2010) Motor Boat&YachtingMotor — BillAndo, (January 2011) (January (January 2011) Boating(January Southern ahead! on ourFacebook page and months intheweeks from near and far. forlots more Look to come ofGBenthusiastscommunity young and old, of others); online and participate friendly inafun, (andquestions and experiences respond to those doing around share theworld; tips, your own Yachts;Banks learn what are other GBowners new photos and catch breaking from Grand news day! Visit facebook.com/grandbanks to see Facebook—and more are doing thesame every onand “liked” theGrandlogged page Banks at nearly this, we ha write 1,000people As FACEBOOK 53 AleutianRPmaidenvoyage Sibu Tengah Malaysia Resort, Photo / Photo ve ve Jonathan Cooper

143 C.Onan-FP-Spray2011.vHR.pdf 1 1/24/11 10:57 AM

GB UNIVERSITY: THE FLORIDA SESSIONS A recent study commissioned by the National Grand Banks Yachts. Marine Manufacturers Association found that The latest session of GB University was held UNIVERSITY dealership experience is the most important in Ft. Lauderdale; attendees included sales factor in the process of buying a new boat. each of our Heritage, Eastbay and Aleutian teams from two of our largest dealers, HMY Of course, that’s something Grand Banks Series. At the end of it all, these “students” (Florida’s East Coast) and Galati Yacht Sales has always understood, which is why we’ve praised the program as a vital tool for their (Florida’s West Coast). Also in attendance worked tirelessly to build the best network of efforts to provide the best possible service were salespeople from Walstrom Marine in the Authorized Dealers in the industry. and information to their customers—while Great Lakes region, and from even as far away as GB “teachers” applauded their hard work and That’s also why we constantly strive to keep Grand Yachts in British Columbia! eventual mastery of the material. our dealers informed, up-to-date and excited Classroom seminars provided all the details about all things Grand Banks. Our dealer If you’re in the market for a new motor yacht, about how GB yachts are designed, built and education program, GB University, is a big part we think you’ll notice the difference that GB equipped, and what sets them apart from the of this effort—an intensive, multi-day event that University makes in your buying experience— competition; on-board sessions gave a closer, brings together dealers from around the world come to a Grand Banks Authorized Dealer and hands-on look at various models in to learn directly from some of the top people at see for yourself!

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

HMY OPENS FLAGSHIP FACILITY IN THE PALM BEACHES In late January, HMY Yachts announced their strength to build on our connections, expand on Florida’s East Coast and offers high-end plans to open an eighth location, a flagship our offerings and enhance our commitment to amenities such as concierge services, yacht club facility in the heart of the Palm Beaches on our customers, today and into the future.” and social room, fitness facilities, Epicurean Florida’s east coast. center and video game room. The marina also HMY found the ideal addition to their seven features a state-of-the-art concrete floating dock The decision to open a luxurious new location prime waterfront locations at Palm Harbor system, high-speed fuel pumps, in-slip pump is a bold one in today’s down market, but much Marina in the Palm Beaches. The new facility out services, security, single and 3-phase power of the dealer’s clientele has been turning to the features 200 slips for yachts up to 250 feet in and much more. HMY team to guide them into the high-end length, with luxurious amenities. “You won’t cruising yacht market. HMY Founder and find a yacht showcase like Palm Harbor Marina President Steve Moynihan predicts that seizing anywhere else,” explains Moynihan. “We can the opportunity to increase market share in a display our listings in this state of the art marina constricted economy will prove a shrewd move in one superb and easily accessed location, in both the near and long term. which makes it a convenient one-stop shop for our buyer.” “At a time when others are pulling back, HMY Yachts is forging ahead,” declared Moynihan. “Thirty plus years of growth and success have Palm Harbor Marina (www.palmharbor- provided us with the financial and organizational marina.com) enjoys a prominent location

GB COMPANY NEWS GB RENDEZVOUS Last fall, Authorized Dealer Marina Velasis hosted its first GB owner’s rendezvous. Eight GBs and 30 attendees gathered in Tokyo Bay for a barbecue to open the event, followed the next day by a cruise to the IN well-known waterfront restaurant Tycoon in Yokohama.

“It was our first big owners event since becoming the GB dealer in Japan 10 years ago,” said Futoshi “Nemo” Ninomiya, owner of Marina Velasis. “We are really pleased to have gathered GB owners from hundreds miles away. We want this to be a big yearly event and raise the enjoyment GB owners here. One day, I would like to host a gathering somewhere not only of GB yachts in Japan, but also all over the Asian countries— Korea, China, Hong Kong etc…”

BOAT SHOW CALENDAR Palm Beach Boat Show Cannes Int’l Boat Show 3/24 - 3/27 9/7 - 9/12 Some of the major shows where GB Authorized Dealers will have models on Southwest Int’l Boat Show Seattle Boat Show display in 2011. For a complete list of 4/14 - 4/17 9/14 - 9/17 shows and models on display, see our Newport Beach In-Water Show Newport Int’l Boat Show boat show calendar at grandbanks.com 4/28 - 5/1 9/15 - 9/18

Trawler Fest Anacortes Lido Yacht Expo (Newport, CA) 5/12 - 5/14 9/22 - 9/25

Boat Asia Norwalk Int’l Boat Show 5/12 - 5/15 9/23 - 9/26

Sanctuary Cove Int’l Boat Show Genoa Int’l Boat Show 5/19 - 5/22 10/1 - 10/9

Sydney Int’l Boat Show Annapolis Power Boat Show 7/28 - 8/1 10/13 - 10/16

Maine Boats and Harbors Show Ft. Lauderdale Int’l Boat Show 8/12 - 8/14 10/26 - 10/30

Amsterdam Seaport Boat Show 8/30 - 9/4

GRAND BANKS YACHTS • SPRAY MAGAZINE • 2011 ANNUAL Grand Banks Book Ad Singapore 0211 HR Monday, 14 February 2011 10:06:03 AM