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Home , Abruzzo, Capestrano, Cocullo, Maiella National Park, Martinsicuro

INSIDE: Ancient Ceramics and Ceremonies 4 Snapshots

d Sweet 5 r a o B m s

i of r Cooking and Skiing u o T t n e in 6 m n r e v o G Abruzzo n

a Cool Places to Stay 8 i l a t I L’Aquila SPECIA L REPORT : ABRUZZO

dream of ®

Maiella Mountains

IVolumeT6, Issue 9 A www.dreamofitalyLY.com November 2007 Abruzzo : AS IT ONCE WAS ’s Porto Turistico ast night you left New York and that’s flown under the tourism radar L this morning you woke up in for a long time. The headline covering “ 1954!”joked Mario Scalzi of The the visit in the local newspaper said Italian Travel Promotion Council as he simply, “You found us.” welcomed several hundred American tour operators, travel agents Indeed it wasn’t until the and journalists to Pescara this 1960s that any substantial spring. The group arrived, to infrastructure, especially a red carpet rolled out on the highways, came to the runway and a band, on the region. Historically, Abruzzo inaugural Eurofly flight from was a rural and poor society Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, L’Aquila New York’s JFK Airport to somewhat isolated from the Pescara. While Scalzi may rest of the country. This have been referring to the might explain why between 1950’s architecture of the city’s airport, 1901 and 1915 alone, a million people in so many ways Abruzzo does seem emigrated from Abruzzo and neigh - like a throwback to a dif - boring . Many of them left for ferent era, and that’s the United States and famous part of its appeal. The Americans such as Alan Alda, Americans were and Tommy LaSorda can trace their her - brought to the region itage back here. to discover an area continued on page 2 L’Aquila’s Castello ’ Abruzzo is one of Italy s least populated regions. Abruzzo As It Once Was continued from page 1

villa to rent in one of the mountain Abruzzo is a playground for hikers towns, consult Doorways at , www.villavacations.com)

mountain climbers cyclists Abruzzo’s mountains are mystical, the , , stuff of legends. Supposedly, Maya, the Greco-Roman goddess of Earth, came skiers and nature enthusiasts and here looking for a flower to heal her sick son. Unable to find it, she died in sorrow and reappeared in the form of especially provides an escape for ’s the surrounding mountains, which make up the , also known as “Sleeping Beauty.” Supposedly, her son city dwellers just two hours away . reappeared as the jagged mountain range opposite from her, which is now known as Gran Sasso or “Sleeping Their ancestors, many of whom may the Appenine Wolf. Parco Nazionale del Giant.” have been sheep farmers, probably Gran Sasso- is home to referred to their home as Abruzzi, not the highest peak on the Italian penin - The environment is so Abruzzo. Why? In the Middle Ages sula, Gran Sasso. Parco pristine that it is perfect the region was called Abruzzo, Nazionale della Maiella features for making; the from the Aprutium. Later, diverse trees and plants and pure water being the the region was divided into steep gorges. Abruzzo is a secret ingredient. The 2 three areas, Abruzzo Citeriore, playground for hikers, moun - noted pasta brands DeCecco (you’ve Abruzzo Ulteriore I and Abruzzo tain climbers, cyclists, skiers seen their blue and yellow boxes in the Ulteriore II. So if you’ve taken and nature enthusiasts and supermarket), Delverde and Pastificio Italian you know that the plu - especially provides an escape have their factories in Fra San Martino, ral of a word ending in an “o” for Rome’s city dwellers just within the . ends in “i” —thus Abruzzi two hours away. referred to all three of these The conditions are also right for the areas. When Italy unifed in While it is easy to get to production of the world’s most expen - 1860, the region of Molise was Abruzzo by train, it is nearly sive spice — ( zafferano ). joined to these three areas and the essential to rent a car to tour the Although it is cultivated elsewhere in region came to be known as Abruzzi e region. Yet there are several local trains Italy, the conditions in arid inland Molise. In 1963, the Italian government that can take you into the mountains Abruzzo are perfect for growing the separated Abruzzo and Molise into two and between the towns. Il Treno delle plant. Bulbs are planted between July distinct regions. Valle (www.sangritana.it) is a scenic and September and pinkish-purple railway that runs between the coast flowers appear in late October, mean - Back to Nature and the mountains, also offering spe - ing the plants are ready to be harvest - cial itineraries. (If you're looking for a ed for their orange-red stigmas or In many areas, the region looks much like it did when it was called Abruzzi. That’s because 30% of the land is cov - Although it is cultivated elsewhere in Italy , ered by nature reserves and three national parks, helping Abruzzo earn the distinction as the the conditions in arid inland Abruzzo greenest region in Europe. Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo protects endangered species are perfect for growing [SAFFRON ]. such as the Marscian Bear and

Abruzzo is divided into four provinc threads, which are used for the spice. To produce one pound of saffron you The proud people here make it even more need about 250,000 flowers. This is why the spice retails for up to $70 per ounce and reportedly all of Italy pro - authentic ; from the hiking guides to the duces less than 220 pounds per year. Contrasting Cities fishermen , they are all eager to introduce

Although it is Abruzzo’s most populat - ed city, Pescara isn’t the most alluring to the ways of Abruzzo . of destinations. This major port was heavily bombed during World War II and travelers will find it more of a of Abruzzo. While The proud people transportation hub than anything else. L’Aquila has here make it even Yes, there are beaches and a prome - many churches, more authentic; from nade as well as some notable muse - the Basilica of San the hiking guides to the fishermen, ums. The Museum of the Abruzzi People Bernardino fea - they are all eager to introduce you to is worth a visit should you find your - tures a three- the ways of Abruzzo. When you visit, self in Pescara. There’s also a yearly tiered cream-col - don’t be surprised at their delight that jazz festival in late July. ored façade, con - “you found them.” sidered one of the Further inland, the regional capital of most important L’Aquila is a far more interesting and Renaissance 3 beautiful place; in fact the Financial structures in dream of ® Times has called it “the most handsome Abruzzo. Inside, the remains of St. city in Abruzzo.” Emperor Frederick II Bernardino of Siena, who spent his last ITALY founded the town in 1240, supposedly years in L’Aquila, are interred. Hotel Kathleen A. McCabe Editor and Publisher by joining 99 villages together. The Duomo, an 18th century palazzo, makes

number 99 became a symbol for the a good base for exploring the city. (Via Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe town and 99 churches and 99 piazzas Dragonetti, 6-10; 39-0862-410893; Editorial Assistants: Cailin Birch were constructed, many of which were www.hotel-duomo.it) Laura Cimperman Design: Leaird Designs destroyed in several earthquakes that www.leaird-designs.com have hit the region over the centuries. Why Abruzzo? Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering But the town hall bell still rings 99 Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. times. A symbol of the city, Fontana While the first or even third time visi - Delivery by mail is $89 per year in the United States and $99 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable delle 99 Cannelle, a fountain with 99 tor to Italy would be understandably PDF) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online spouts, was built in the 13th century. If attracted to places other than Abruzzo, access to over 40 back issues and regular e-mail updates. you try counting the spouts, they don’t those who are seeking a deeper con - Three ways to subscribe: 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, actually add up to 99, but that’s just a nection with authentic Italy, perhaps Washington, DC, 20016 small detail! those with Abruzzese heritage, will 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 find the region to be a delightful 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, Mastercard and American Express accepted) The city’s highest change of from Editorial feedback is welcome. point is a massive cas - Italy’s other well-visited E-mail: [email protected] tle built by the destinations. From its Advertising opportunities are available. Spanish viceroy Don well-preserved land - E-mail: [email protected] Pedro de Toledo in scape to its down-to- Copyright © 2007 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - 1534. It is well worth earth sheep farming her - mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide a visit and also houses itage, Abruzzo is noth - information that is accurate and reliable; however, the National Museum ing if not real. Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com L’ es: Aquila, , Pescara, . ABRUZZO: THE PLAC Castelli at its narrowest, la Ruetta, as it is known, Coculla might not be so easy to squeeze through Tucked in the middle of the national park after an authentic What has made this small town of some of Gran Sasso, Castelli might seem an unlike - Abruzzese meal at 400 people famous throughout Italy, and ly center of ceramics, but the people here Zunica 1880. Try indeed the world? Snakes. In early May, a have been practicing this art form since as the soup. number of grass snakes are captured (the far back as the 8th century. In the 16th and The attached town has snakes on hand all year round 17th centuries, town artisans became hotel and its however for curious visitors) and on known for using brighter colors (yellow, rooms (starting the first Thursday of May, they are green, blue, orange and brown) than other at 80 € per night) offer stunning views of placed on a statue of San Italian artists and depicting more narrative the valley below; making it a good base for Domenico and paraded themes including battles, allegories and reli - exploring the area. (39-0861-91319; through town in a cen - gious themes. www.hotelzunica.it) turies old A short walk tradition. A from the cen - CIVITELLA DEL ter of town is t i .

a Chieti c a

the small s e h c i

Church of San m There’s only one man to see in Chieti and a r e c .

Donato, boast - w that’s the Warrior of . He can be w ing a ceiling w found in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale decorated with 800 ceramic tiles. Many of d’Abruzzo. The 7-foot-tall statue was 4 the town’s ceramic shops sell copies of discovered in 1934 by a local these tiles. Visit Castelli’s Museo delle farmer tending to his vineyard. Ceramiche to see historic examples of Researchers t i .

o ceramics produced here think the z z

u CASTELLI r b

a between the 16th and 19th warrior is actu - . e n o i g

e centuries. (Open daily in sum - ally a funerary r . w w

w mer, closed Monday during win - monument of ter; 39-0861-979398) Italic king Nevius Pompuledeius dating back to the 6th cen - g r o . i tury B.C. (Museum v u m

Civitella del Tronto .

w open daily, 9 a.m. to w The breathtaking panorama alone is rea - w 8 p.m.; 39-0871-331668; son to visit the 11th century fortress of www.muvi.org/musarc) Also worth seeing , one of the largest in — Chieti’s Roman ruins, including Europe. The fortress was originally com - three small temples and a missioned by Philip theater. II of Spain, but his - tory may remem - ber it best as the SUL last Bourbon hold - out in the fight for . (Open daily; www.fortezzacivitella.it) Head into town to see the narrowest street in Italy and have a fantastic meal. About 16 inches wide

Authors Ignacio Silone and Gabriele CES IN BETWEEN pagan ritual, designed to protect against Sulmona snake bites, it has been transformed into a Catholic rite. Legend has it that if the This scenic port town has a violent past. Ever wonder where those colorful sugar- snakes don’t Riddled with holes, the remains of a 15th covered called confetti come cover the face century Aragonese castle shows the scars from? Sulmona is their birthplace and you of San of long-ago fighting with the Turks. During can’t walk the city’s main street, Corso Domenico, World War II, more than 1,300 Canadian Ovidio, without see -

d then the year soldiers were killed here in a fierce seven- ing at least one i o f o C

. ahead will be day fight against the Germans to capture store every few feet, R a good one. the town. One war correspondent dubbed displaying life-like Worried that one snake might take off and the events of December 1943 “the little flowers made of end up in your camera bag? “No,” says one Stalingrad of Italy.” British Prime Minister these traditional villager. “They don’t move because they Winston Churchill credited the bloody candies. (There are want to be on him.” battle confetti colors for every occasion — with white for weddings, green for engage - teaching ments, yellow for baby showers, red for the Allies graduations.) There’s much to visit in much sweet Sulmona — the Cattedrale di San about street fighting. Over sixty years Panfilo has survived numerous earthquakes later, there are still reminders of the over the centuries — but the true attrac - events. On Corso Vittorio Emanuele you can tions are the city’s parks, picturesque see an inscription saying, “Allied Soldiers streets and expansive Piazza Garibaldi, 5 Meet @ 21:00.” complete with Roman aqueduct. Latin poet was born here and his proclamation, Sulmo mihi patria est, (Sulmona is my home - land) is inscribed around the city. Parker Villas represents a unique apartment CHIETI ORTONA owned by a Boston chef who returned to his ancestral city and renovated one of the city’s oldest palazzi, m

o overlooking the piaz - c . s a l l i

v za. Guests may want r e k r a p

. to time their stay to w w w coincide with Sulmona’s horse race, or palio, the oldest in Italy. La Giostra Cavallesresca occurs the last weekend in July. The eight-bedroom, eight-bathroom apartment, with a unique Roman plunge pool fed by the city’s LMONA aqueduct, rents for between $4,685 and $7,050 per week. (800-280-2811; www.parkervillas.com)

1 € = $1.47 at press time ’ D Annunzio were born in Abruzzo. There ’s Something for Get Cookin ’ in Abruzzo Coastal Treasures:

ith Abruzzo still considered off the kitchen.com ) Celtic Tours’ Flavors of Abruzzo haracterized by broad, sandy beaches in W beaten path, there aren’t many offers a similar program, also using Palazzo C the north to more rugged terrain in organized cooking schools or tours in the Tour d’Eau as a base and including five cook - the south, Abruzzo’s 80 miles of coastline region, but that is changing. The International ing lessons and excursions for $3,400 per attracts visitors from near and far. In fact, Kitchen offers Sapori di Abruzzo, with dates person, land only. (800-833-1373; the region has 26 beaches that meet the upon request for groups www.celtictours.com). If criteria of the Blue Flag organization of two to eight people. you don’t have much time (www.blueflag.org), which rates beaches d r a

Guests stay at the newly o to devote to learning B based on water m s i

renovated palaces, r Abbruzzesse cuisine, con - u

o quality, environ - T t

Palazzo Tour d’Eau (see n sider the four-night e mental manage - m n r

page eight) , for six nights e Abbandonza Abruzzesse v

o ment and safety. G

and enjoy four hands-on n program offered by The a i l Locals recommend a t cooking lessons and all I Parker Company at the and Hotel Zunica meals , as well as excursions to cheese and (see page four). One of the on the salame producers and trabocchi (traditional region’s hottest young chefs gives three days northern coast of fishing huts). $2,990 per person, land only. of cooking lessons. $1,250 per person, land Abruzzo and (800-945-8606; www.theinternational only. (800-280-2811; www.parkervillas.com) in the south. Silvi Marina, in the mid - dle, is frequently 6 Skiing on the Pope s Slopes on lists of the best ’ beaches in Italy. bruzzo’s mountainous terrain makes it stood in front of him and another behind A a natural destination for skiing. In fact, him,” Dziwisz writes. “He took the lifts with While touring the coastline, you can’t help avid skier Pope John Paul II frequently took a ski pass. It seemed unbelievable that but spot a distinctly Abruzzese institution – to the slopes here, nobody recognized him. trabocchi. These are huts built on stilts on sometimes openly but But then who would have the beach or the rocks with nets hooked other times incognito, thought that the pope on to outriggers, giving fishermen access to according to his per - could go skiing just like deeper waters – and the fish there – with - d r a

sonal secretary o that?” B out needing boats. The chaos of beams, m s i

Stanislaw Dziwisz. In r u ropes and wood made from local trees or o T

t At one of Abruzzo’s most

his recent book, n e planks that have washed up on shore can m n

r popular ski resorts and Dziwisz tells the story e v make for a bewildering sight but the o G Italy’s oldest continuously n

of how he helped the a i l a t pontiff sneak away I operating commercial ski from the papal residence at Castel Gandolfo area, (www.ilgransasso.it), to the Abruzzo ski resort of there are ski runs known as the “Pope’s (www.ovindolimagnola.it). Slopes.” On what would have been the Pope’s 85th birthday in May of 2005 a peak “We left at nine in the morning, in Father in the Gran Sasso range, formerly known as Jozef’s car, so that the Swiss Guards would - the Gendarme, was renamed in his honor. n’t get suspicious,” he writes, noting that The mountain is not far from the small another priest pretended to be reading a church of San Pietro della Ienca where John newspaper in order to prevent the guards Paul would stop to pray during his moun - from seeing inside the car. “He was dressed tain sojourns. For more information on ski - like everyone else: ski suit, hat, goggles. He ing in Abruzzo, visit stood in the queue just like everyone else, www.gransassolagapark.it although for security reasons one of us

The flavorful red regional Mont e p Everyone in Abruzzo Beaches & Seafood Seeking Divine Inspiration

trabocchi serve their purpose well. With or the pious or even the merely curi - interesting that the flesh and blood have fishing not as plentiful as it once was, few ous, Abruzzo offers a wealth of religious the same blood type (AB) that has been make their living from trabocchi but rather F treasures. For centuries, the region’s remote detected on the Shroud of . (39-0872- use them on weekends. landscape has provided a haven for monks 7131 89; www.miracoloeucaristico.com ) and hermits; supposedly, the number of Slow Food has dedicated a hermitages here rivals only those in Tibet. For more than three centuries, visitors have bi-yearly festival called Cala The most famous religious houses in the come to the town of to see a Lenta (www.calalenta.it) to region are linked to Pietro Angeleri, the man thin veil reported to bear the impression of the trabocchi – next one who would become . He the face of Jesus slated for July 2009. The lived in the abbey of San Spirito a Maiella Christ. In 1506, an event celebrates the tradi - and the hermitages of S. Bartolomeo di Legio angel appeared to a tional seafood of and S. Giovanni all l’Ofrento . This last local resident and the Trabocchi hermitage is among the most interesting gave him the veil. Coast such as and hardest to reach; it is carved out of the t

Some theologians i . o

scapece (fish t n

rocks and relics found in the caves here that a now think it is the s o t cooked in vinegar, l o v date to Paleolithic and Neolithic times. .

veil of Veronica once w

and saffron) w housed at the Vatican. w and shellfish and Celestine was at the hermitage of S. Onofrio The veil is kept in a case above the main potato soup. when in 1294, he learned that he had been altar at the Sanctuary of the Holy Face Special dinners are 7 elected pope. Alarmed at the corruption (Volto Santo ). (39- 085- 859118; arranged on the he saw as pope, Celestine renounced his www.voltosanto.it) trabocchi them - position after 13 months, hoping to return selves. You don’t to his beloved solitude. It was not to be; Devotees of the Virgin Mary will want to have to wait until 2009 to dine on a he died a short time later after being visit the medieval hill town of trabocco as during the summer, local imprisoned by his successor. Later where Mary’s birth house – where she families arrange to cook for guests on these canonized as St. Peter Celestine, and he is accepted the profound mystery of the historic “fishing machines.” The Veri family of now a celebrated figure in Abruzzo. All of Incarnation – is said to be located. In the the small coastal town of Fuggitella owns the hermitages he is linked to can be visit - 13th century, holy angels supposedly flew Trabocco Pesce Palombo and offers an authen - ed. More information can be found at the house from Palestine to a green hill of tic trabocco meal including fish stew, sole www.regione.abruzzo.it laurels here on the Adriatic Coast. Pope and mussels. (39- 0872_60857; John Paul II came here during his first pil - www.traboccopescepalombo.it) The town of is grimage as pope and called it “the holiest home to the first place on Earth.” (39-071-9747155; Eucharistic miracle www.santuarioloreto.it) recorded by the . During an While not technically part of Abruzzo, the 8th-century mass, after the Pugliese town of San Giovanni Rotondo , birth - consecration, the host was place of the celebrated Padre Pio, is close turned into human flesh and the wine was enough (an hour away) to include it on a turned into human blood. Scientific tests religious tour of the area. It was here in have revealed that the flesh now housed in 1918 that the former Francesco Forgione the Church of San Francesco is muscular received the stigmata on his hands, feet and tissue of the heart and although over 1250 chest. years old, it contains all of the chemical properties of freshly shed blood. It is 1 € = $1.47 at press time ’ pulciano d Abruzzo is a popular export. Special Places to Stay

TOUR OPERATORS/TRAVEL WHAT ’S OLD IS NEW AGAIN PACKAGERS TO CONSULT Luxury castle Albergo Diffuso Santo Stefano All rates below are per person, based on double occupancy. Castello Chiola di Sessanio Loreto Aprutino Abruzzo Off the Beaten Path (39) 085 4972324 (39) 085 8290690 Four air and land packages (five or six nights) including www.sextantio.it www.castellochiolahotel.com Abruzzo and one of the following additional destinations: Rates: Doubles start at 170€ and Rates: A double room is 190 € per night, suites start at 200€ per night. Rome, , or . Starts at $975. while a junior suite costs 220 €. (800) ITALY 95; www.tourcrafters.com The 100-person village of Santo Stefano di Considering Abruzzo has hundreds of castles Sessani, within the Gran Sasso national park, Best of Abruzzo with A Taste of Rome it makes sense to stay in one. This 4-star received worldwide attention several years Airfare. Eight nights deluxe accommodations with property dating back to 864 A.D. offers every ago when an daily breakfast. Three lunches and four dinners. amenity including an elegant interior court - Italian-Swedish Transportation in Abruzzo with tour guide and various yard, glass elevator preservationist excursions. Three hands-on cooking lessons in Abruzzo. and swimming pool. bought the entire Starts at $2,699. (888)TOURS-ABC; www.clubabc.com Service is fit for town, once a wool-trading hub. One of his Discover Abruzzo, Day by Day.. royalty. For those first projects has been to turn several Land only, seven-day car rental, vouchers for seven nights interested in cultural 15th-century buildings into a 40-room inn. at select hotels with daily breakfast. Starts at $1,096. and culinary tourism, there are pottery and The rooms are decorated in the Arte Povera (800) 223-1616; www.maiellano.com oil museums on site. tradition (emphasizing local crafts and fab - rics) and even the soap is made from local Discover Abruzzo 8 . The hotel exudes a rustic feel but Airfare, seven-day car rental, seven nights hotel The Personal Touch maintains modern standards, such as heated accommodations. Starts at $1,495. (877) 723-0802; Palazzo Tour d’Eau floors. (The online reservations system www.bellavistatours.com Via Monte, 8 allows you to choose exactly which room Pescara Fly/Drive you would like — by looking at photos — Airfare, three days of accommodations in Pescara, three-day (39) 0873 957006 for the period you are trying to book.) rental car. $699 per person, plus $299 air taxes and fuel www.palazzotd.com charges. (800) 995-7997; www.splendidaitalia.com Rates: 120 € per room, per night, including breakfast. Beach Chic Pescara Fly/Drive Airfare and seven-day car rental. $869 to $1,167 per This newly renovated and intimate palazzo is Park Hotel Alcione the brain child of Massimo Criscio who left his Viale Alcione, 59 person, depending on month of travel and class of car. job in corporate America to return to his (800) 835-1555; www.autoeurope.com roots and open this small hotel. The palace, (39) 085 817698 Religious Abruzzo and Italy named for the French family who once www.parkhotelalcione.com Escorted tour for nine nights, land only (accommodations resided here, is considered the sentry of the Rates: Range from 124 to 144€ for a double and some meals), beginning and ending in Rome. valley because of its position high above. with breakfast. Half board starts at 80€ per Highlights in Abruzzo include L’Aquila, Pescara, Lanciano There are just six rooms, four have en suite person while full board averages 100€ per and Cocullo. Visits to Assisi, Padre Pio’s hometown in bathrooms and the other two (perfect for person, per day. Puglia and the Amalfi Coast included. Daily mass. families) share a bathroom. The young and Dubbing itself a “design resort,” Alcione fea - $1,095 to $1,649 per person (five people required for vibrant owner gets personally involved in the tures minimalist décor in an atmosphere of tour) (800) 322-3876; www.europeatcost.com experience of his wellness — there’s a pool, spa, yoga classes, A Taste of Abruzzo guests, arranging etc. The hotel has its own private beach on Flights to Pescara. Four-day car rental. Accomodations at for unique excur - some of Abruzzo’s loveliest shoreline. There’s 4-star hotels in L’Aquila and Rome. Welcome dinner in sions and cooking even a “green” feel here. The wood used at Rome. Hands on cooking lesson. Private half-day walking lessons. the hotel is natural, without chemical resin tour of L’Aquila. Visit to Museum of Olive Oil followed by and treated only with water-soluble paint. dinner. Starts at $1,710 per person. (800) 255-3537; www.visititalytours.com There are more than 520 castles in Abruzzo.