INSIDE: Ancient Ceramics and Ceremonies 4 Snapshots d Sweet Sulmona 5 r a o B m s i of r Cooking and Skiing u o T t n e in Abruzzo 6 m n r e v o G Abruzzo n a Cool Places to Stay 8 i l a t I L’Aquila SPECIA L REPORT : ABRUZZO dream of ® Maiella Mountains IVolumeT6, Issue 9 A www.dreamofitalyLY.com November 2007 Abruzzo : ITALY AS IT ONCE WAS Pescara’s Porto Turistico ast night you left New York and that’s flown under the tourism radar L this morning you woke up in for a long time. The headline covering “ 1954!”joked Mario Scalzi of The the visit in the local newspaper said Italian Travel Promotion Council as he simply, “You found us.” welcomed several hundred American tour operators, travel agents Indeed it wasn’t until the and journalists to Pescara this 1960s that any substantial spring. The group arrived, to infrastructure, especially a red carpet rolled out on the highways, came to the runway and a band, on the region. Historically, Abruzzo inaugural Eurofly flight from was a rural and poor society Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, L’Aquila New York’s JFK Airport to somewhat isolated from the Pescara. While Scalzi may rest of the country. This have been referring to the might explain why between 1950’s architecture of the city’s airport, 1901 and 1915 alone, a million people in so many ways Abruzzo does seem emigrated from Abruzzo and neigh - like a throwback to a dif - boring Molise. Many of them left for ferent era, and that’s the United States and famous part of its appeal. The Americans such as Alan Alda, Madonna Americans were and Tommy LaSorda can trace their her - brought to the region itage back here. to discover an area continued on page 2 L’Aquila’s Castello ’ Abruzzo is one of Italy s least populated regions. Abruzzo As It Once Was continued from page 1 villa to rent in one of the mountain Abruzzo is a playground for hikers towns, consult Doorways at , www.villavacations.com) mountain climbers cyclists Abruzzo’s mountains are mystical, the , , stuff of legends. Supposedly, Maya, the Greco-Roman goddess of Earth, came skiers and nature enthusiasts and here looking for a flower to heal her sick son. Unable to find it, she died in sorrow and reappeared in the form of especially provides an escape for Rome ’s the surrounding mountains, which make up the Maiella, also known as “Sleeping Beauty.” Supposedly, her son city dwellers just two hours away . reappeared as the jagged mountain range opposite from her, which is now known as Gran Sasso or “Sleeping Their ancestors, many of whom may the Appenine Wolf. Parco Nazionale del Giant.” have been sheep farmers, probably Gran Sasso-Monti della Laga is home to referred to their home as Abruzzi, not the highest peak on the Italian penin - The environment is so Abruzzo. Why? In the Middle Ages sula, Gran Sasso. Parco pristine that it is perfect the region was called Abruzzo, Nazionale della Maiella features for pasta making; the from the Latin Aprutium. Later, diverse trees and plants and pure water being the the region was divided into steep gorges. Abruzzo is a secret ingredient. The 2 three areas, Abruzzo Citeriore, playground for hikers, moun - noted pasta brands DeCecco (you’ve Abruzzo Ulteriore I and Abruzzo tain climbers, cyclists, skiers seen their blue and yellow boxes in the Ulteriore II. So if you’ve taken and nature enthusiasts and supermarket), Delverde and Pastificio Italian you know that the plu - especially provides an escape have their factories in Fra San Martino, ral of a word ending in an “o” for Rome’s city dwellers just within the Maiella National Park. ends in “i” —thus Abruzzi two hours away. referred to all three of these The conditions are also right for the areas. When Italy unifed in While it is easy to get to production of the world’s most expen - 1860, the region of Molise was Abruzzo by train, it is nearly sive spice — saffron ( zafferano ). joined to these three areas and the essential to rent a car to tour the Although it is cultivated elsewhere in region came to be known as Abruzzi e region. Yet there are several local trains Italy, the conditions in arid inland Molise. In 1963, the Italian government that can take you into the mountains Abruzzo are perfect for growing the separated Abruzzo and Molise into two and between the towns. Il Treno delle plant. Bulbs are planted between July distinct regions. Valle (www.sangritana.it) is a scenic and September and pinkish-purple railway that runs between the coast flowers appear in late October, mean - Back to Nature and the mountains, also offering spe - ing the plants are ready to be harvest - cial itineraries. (If you're looking for a ed for their orange-red stigmas or In many areas, the region looks much like it did when it was called Abruzzi. That’s because 30% of the land is cov - Although it is cultivated elsewhere in Italy , ered by nature reserves and three national parks, helping Abruzzo earn the distinction as the the conditions in arid inland Abruzzo greenest region in Europe. Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo protects endangered species are perfect for growing [SAFFRON ]. such as the Marscian Bear and Abruzzo is divided into four provinc threads, which are used for the spice. To produce one pound of saffron you The proud people here make it even more need about 250,000 flowers. This is why the spice retails for up to $70 per ounce and reportedly all of Italy pro - authentic ; from the hiking guides to the duces less than 220 pounds per year. Contrasting Cities fishermen , they are all eager to introduce Although it is Abruzzo’s most populat - ed city, Pescara isn’t the most alluring to the ways of Abruzzo . of destinations. This major port was heavily bombed during World War II and travelers will find it more of a of Abruzzo. While The proud people transportation hub than anything else. L’Aquila has here make it even Yes, there are beaches and a prome - many churches, more authentic; from nade as well as some notable muse - the Basilica of San the hiking guides to the fishermen, ums. The Museum of the Abruzzi People Bernardino fea - they are all eager to introduce you to is worth a visit should you find your - tures a three- the ways of Abruzzo. When you visit, self in Pescara. There’s also a yearly tiered cream-col - don’t be surprised at their delight that jazz festival in late July. ored façade, con - “you found them.” sidered one of the Further inland, the regional capital of most important L’Aquila is a far more interesting and Renaissance 3 beautiful place; in fact the Financial structures in dream of ® Times has called it “the most handsome Abruzzo. Inside, the remains of St. city in Abruzzo.” Emperor Frederick II Bernardino of Siena, who spent his last ITALY founded the town in 1240, supposedly years in L’Aquila, are interred. Hotel Kathleen A. McCabe Editor and Publisher by joining 99 villages together. The Duomo, an 18th century palazzo, makes number 99 became a symbol for the a good base for exploring the city. (Via Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe town and 99 churches and 99 piazzas Dragonetti, 6-10; 39-0862-410893; Editorial Assistants: Cailin Birch were constructed, many of which were www.hotel-duomo.it) Laura Cimperman Design: Leaird Designs destroyed in several earthquakes that www.leaird-designs.com have hit the region over the centuries. Why Abruzzo? Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering But the town hall bell still rings 99 Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. times. A symbol of the city, Fontana While the first or even third time visi - Delivery by mail is $89 per year in the United States and $99 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable delle 99 Cannelle, a fountain with 99 tor to Italy would be understandably PDF) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online spouts, was built in the 13th century. If attracted to places other than Abruzzo, access to over 40 back issues and regular e-mail updates. you try counting the spouts, they don’t those who are seeking a deeper con - Three ways to subscribe: 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, actually add up to 99, but that’s just a nection with authentic Italy, perhaps Washington, DC, 20016 small detail! those with Abruzzese heritage, will 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 find the region to be a delightful 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, Mastercard and American Express accepted) The city’s highest change of pace from Editorial feedback is welcome. point is a massive cas - Italy’s other well-visited E-mail: [email protected] tle built by the destinations. From its Advertising opportunities are available. Spanish viceroy Don well-preserved land - E-mail: [email protected] Pedro de Toledo in scape to its down-to- Copyright © 2007 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - 1534. It is well worth earth sheep farming her - mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide a visit and also houses itage, Abruzzo is noth - information that is accurate and reliable; however, the National Museum ing if not real. Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that may occur.