Ap Lei Chau Ap Lei Chau

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General A diverse collection of crags in two main areas, Ap Lei Chau and Ap Lei Pai. The climbing here covers just abbout all style imaginable and is sure to keep you entertained for many many weekends. Some routes are tidal so its worth checking out the Hong Kong Observa- tory webpages first to time your visits to when the water will be lowest.

Access The crags at Ap Lei Chau are best approached from the end of Lee Nam Road, which can be reached relatively easily either on foot or by taxi from South Horizons MTR station. From the end of the road, follow the little alley on the left along the side of the building, staying right to some steps that allow you to climb over the wall. After this follow a via ferrata like trail that contours along the coastline via a combination of scrambling, wooden planks, old boat ropes and even the odd steel ladder. The difficulty of this and the need tom use the above features varies depending on the tide.

This trail will eventually lead to Welcome Wall and, after a short scramble descent, the boardwalk beneath The Depot. Other areas at Ap Lei Chau are reached by scrambling along the coastline between here and the small beach connecting to Ap Lei Pai. The crags on Ap Lei Phi (excluding Ocean Wall) are reached via the obvious dirt trail leaving the right side of the beach. It is also possible to reaches beach by hiking over the hill from Lei Tung Estate, but seriously, why would you when there’s a quicker less strenuous option available. A third option to get here is to take a Sampan from Aberdeen Harbour.

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Access Maps

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Climbing Areas: Ap Lei Chau Areas Welcome Wall: A couple of short routes on the first wall reached. The Gallery:A handful of routes ninth small zawn just beyond Welcome Wall. Most routes affected by the tide and required abseil access to hanging stances. The Depot:This crag is basically like a modern bouldering gym on steroids. Steep, powerful routes on (generally) positive holds. Partially tidal on the left side. The Fury Wall: Quality face climbing up a sustained steep face providing some of the best routes at this area. Yellow Wall: A mix of short slabby routes and steeper, longer lines up prominent features provides a good selection of routes at moderate grades. Dump Wall: Short (very short) climbs up the slightly scrappy walls on the right side of the cliffs as they descend in height. The Den:A combination of steep lines on the right and slab lines on the left provides a well shaded area to keep you busy. Some lines affected by the tide.

Ap Lei Pai Areas Ocean Wall: The small cover on the NE tip of the island offers a variety of styles for mid- grade climbs, coupled with some additional potential for deep water soloing of some lines and (for the fainter of heart) some smaller scale cliff jumping/swimming. The Cove:The small cove/cave on the west coast offers and handful of existing and a lot more potential for DWS routes. Water depth can be marginal for this at low tide however so a good degree of experience and caution is advised. Left Wall: A long wall of short (predominantly traditionally protected) routes on compact high quality rock. With enough pads, some climbs could even be treated as high ball boulder problems. The Prow:A collection of high quality routes on steep rock on the buttresses at the far end of the island. 6 Ap Lei Chau

Welcome Wall The short wall of Welcome Wall is the first distinct crag reached when approaching along the coastline. The wall itself offers a few pleasant introductory climbs for beginners as well as a couple of steeper fiercer routes forcing through the headwall at the top of the crag.

1 - There’s No Mat F6b+ 4 - Feudal Enterprises F4 Straightforward climbing leads to the technical corner, FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) which is taken direct. FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok (2015) 5 - Welcome F4 To the right of the fixed ropes is a short wall of solid 2 - Point Break F6c rock. Technical climbing on the lower wall capped with a FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok (2015) dyno finish! FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 6 - Barnacle Crush F6a FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2016) 3 - Tuff Trip F6c The finish is similar to a campus board session. 7 - Fish Fingers F6a FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2016)

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The Gallery A collection of routes in the small zawn provide good opportunity to hone sea cliff climbing skills. Most routes have tidal bases and utilise hanging belays so a clam sea is recommended. 1 - Lean to Port F6a 5 - The Lip Trip F6c+ FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok (2015) Start as for Manic Volcanic but at a prominent jug ad- jacent to the third bolt, pull right out of the roof to a 2 - Close to the Wind F6a+ crux on the lip. FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden (2016) 3 - Plain Sailing F6a 6 - Promenade Facade F4 FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee(2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje (2015) 4 - Manic Volcanic F6c+ Taking the steepest line through the cave roof, this 7 - Time to Get Physical F6a is an unusual kind of route to be found in Hong FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje Kong. Despite the need for particular conditions (2015) and abseil access, this climb is well worth the effort. FA: Francis Haden (2016) 8 - Sinking Slowly F5 FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje (2015) Joost Swetter on The Fury (F7a) Photos: Stuart Millis

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Nick Street getting Press Gang(ed) (F7b) Photos: Stuart Millis

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The Depot Steep powerful ‘gym’ style climbing through the roofs abbove the boardwalk. The left side of the crag is tidal. 1 - Walk the Plank * F6b 7 - Diesel Power ** F7b One of the steepest routes you’re likely to find in Hong FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) Kong! Tackle the steepest portion of the cliff via gymnastic 2 - Black Watch F6c hard moves and a healthy dose of power and stamina. FA: Neil Carruthers (2017) FA: Francis Haden (2015) 8 - The Devil Wears Prana*** F7c 3 - Crimson Tide F6b+ The test piece of the crag. Long dynamic moves, a dyno at mid height and a pow- FA: Francis Haden (2016) erful finish equate to a route that shorter climbers will certainly find harder. 4 - The Rush to Crush F6a+ FA: Neil Carruthers (2016)

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 9 - Press Gang *** F7b A fine bouldery route up the steep wall left of the cor- 5 - Lean Burn *** F7a ner. The difficulties may be short lived but it still packs a punch. FA: Francis Haden (2015) Initial moves on positive crimps, pockets and breaks bring you to an awkward clip and powerful pulls on 6 - Shark Attack ** F7a small crimps up the blank section of wall (a bit of extra A fantastic excursion thorugh the steepest part of the height is a definite advantage here). These lead (hope- crag. Positive holds lead powerfully through the roofs fully) to good ledges, which are followed to the top. to follow a leftwards trending line of weakness. Climb FA: Colin Rouse (2015) quick to avoid powering out! FA: Francis Haden (2016) 10 - Final Approach *** F6c Good climbing up the obvious left facing corner with a fun finish. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) 11 - Down by the Sea F5+

FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) 12 - Sideshow F6a+

FA: Francis Haden, Eugenie Knipper, Jon Knipper, Sue Hazel (2016)

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The Fury Wall Sustained steep face climbing on the compact wall to the right of The Depot offers a good contrast to the steep routes nearby.

1 - Collision Course ** F6b+ 4 - Simple Face *** F7a The left side of the main wall offers a fine exercise in FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) cranking on crimps! Sadly this route often suffers from seepage issues. 2 - Jumping Judy *** F6b+ FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2015) Big power moves on good holds after the second bolt. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 5 - One Ice Cream away from Happiness ** F6c+ 3 - Surf to Sun ** F5, F6b A pleasant route up the left side of the main portion of A fun outing taking the obvious left-to-right trending Fury Wall. Good holds lead to a more committing crux ramp, concluding with an exposed traverse beneath the at mid-height, beyond which further positive ledges roof that is decidedly easier if you are short. Take note and side pulls will bring the top (provided the pump that this climb crosses all the other Fury Wall routes so doesn’t set in…). avoid choosing this during busy times! FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) FA: Francis Haden (2016) 12 Ap Lei Chau

Claus Jacobs just a few moves away from earning ‘One Ice Cream’ (F6c+) Photos: Karen Chan

6 - The Fury *** F7a 8 - Direct Action * F6b+ A crag test piece that forces a sustained line up the A short technical and punchy little line up the clean centre of the wall. Tricky to on-sight but relatively corner on the right side of The Fury Wall. Intricate straight forward and soft for the grade once you know moves up the corner leads to the slopey shelf and (with the moves. the help of a little tree) the lower off Follow a line of small ledges and edges up the middle of FA: Francis Haden, Jonathan Knipper (2015) the wall until you reach a series of small overlaps at the last bolt. General consensus seems to be reaching out 9 - Layer Cake F5+ left to good side pulls at this point in order to get to the capping roof above and the lower off. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden (2015) 6a - The Fury (extension)** F7b Instead of clipping the anchor, traverse right under- neath the roof until it is possible to finish as for Life- time Piling Up. FA: Francis Haden (2015) 7 - Lifetime Piling Up ** F7a+

FA: Francis Haden (2015)

Nick Street taking Direct Action’ (F6b+) Photos: Stuart Millis 13 HongKongClimbing

Yellow Wall A mixture of interesting lines following obvious features and short slabby routes on compact faces. 1 - Persistence of Vision F6b+ 5 - And She Was * F6b A technical and sustained climb up the steep wall on The compact looking wall is surprisingly hard. the left side of the crag. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden (2015) 6 - Personal Space * F6a+ 2 - Dry Rot * F6a+ Another tricky route up the compact slab. A fun route that weaves an interesting line following FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) the path of least resistance. Take care around the start as the rock is heavily fractured and may have loose holds. 7 - The Wrecking Crew F6a FA: Francis Haden (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 3 - Man against the Sun F6c+ A brutal start to pass the first bolt is capped by a techni- 8 - Wrecking F6a+ cal finish. FA: Ray Lee, Terry Chan (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 4 - Purple Fart F6b Stay left of the last bolt to avoid suspect rock in the corner. FA: Francis Haden (2015)

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9 - Bristol Fashion * F6b+ 12 - Everyman’s an Island F5 Technical, thin moves to become established on the . obvious ramp line. BBeware loose rock near the top as FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje, Terry a large block has fallen off directly above the anchors Chan, Ray Lee (2015) since the first ascent. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Terry Chan, Ray Lee 13 - Look Left, Ignore the Right F3 (2015) An easy scramble up the obious corner system. Beware weak rock bbeneath the anchor though. 10 - The Corner * F6a. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2016) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 14 - Fishy Business F5 The obbvious narrow buttress at the right end of the 11 - Avon Calling F4 wall, just before the crag degenerates further in height . and rock quality. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2016)

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Dump Wall Short technical and beginner routes on the buttresses at the right side of the hill.

1 – Bolting in a Blizzard F6a, 8 – Edge Control F6c FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2016) A srenuous line through the roof. FA: Francis Haden (2015) 2 – Comfortably Numb F6a 9 – Sidekick * F6a+ FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2016) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee, Terry Chan 3 – Parental Guidance F3 (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 10 – Little Roof F6a+ 4 – Sailing Close to the Wind * F5 FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 11 – No Peacock Strut * F6c+, 5 – Fresh off the Boat* F4 FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 12 – Beach and Bosch * F6b+ 6 – Ten Minutes * F6b FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) A technical route with a tricky finish FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 7 – Use Your Groove * F6a FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015)

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The Den A somewhat hidden area tucked away from the rest of the climbing on Ap Lei Chau. From the beach at the end of the other area, traverse left around the hillside to the opening of the cave and the climbing itself. Routes 4 to 7 are affected by the tide so plan ahead if these are on your tick list. A – Den of Iniquity F6b+ 4 – Once In A Lifetime ** F6b+ FA: Francis Haden (2016) The overhanging corner. FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Chris Mak (2015) B – Pocari Shake F6b+ FA: Francis Haden (2016) 5 – Keel Thin** F7a FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 1 – Wake Turbulence ** F6b+ Fun climbing through the bbulges in the lower wall 6 – Splash and Dash *** F6a+ leads to a lower off just beneath the roof FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak (2015) 7 – Splash Down ** F6a+ FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 2 – Open Project Climb Wake Turbulence to the anchor and extend this with a sling. Crank out through the roof abbove before a few moves up the wall abbove lead to the anchor. 3 – Cave Rave ** F7a A sustained line in a fine position. FA: Francis Haden, Keung King 13/09/2015

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Hilda Chan in a Den of Inequity (F6b+) Photos: Karen Chan

The left wall of The Den offers a few pleasant slab routes in nice contrast to the steeper routes to the right. Climbbs are described left to right: 1 – Costa Del Chau * F5 FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak (2015) 2 – Of Cave and Country F4 FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak (2015) 3 – Bedrock F6a * FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak (2015) 4 – Sanctuary ** F5+ FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak (2015) 5 – Caving in Daylight ** F4 FA: Francis Haden, Keung King, Connie Choy, Chris Mak (2015)

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Ocean Wall

This crag offers quality routes on good rock up the gently overhanging wall. From the beach connecting to Ap Lei Pai, traverse left around the coast just above the water line until a short scramble leads down to the crag. Routes 1 to 7 require abseil access to reach the ledge. 1 – Ocean Park F5+ 7 – Coast to Coast ** F6b+ An easy warm up route on the left side of the crag. Start at the bottom of the ledge and launch up the wall Keep right near the top to avoid weak rock. above, passing through a series of small overlaps. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2016) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2016) 2 – Ocean Endeavour ** F6c+ 8 – Immersed ** F6b+ Start at the low belay on the right of the wall, moving up a left from here to pass through the small roofs at FA: Francis Haden (2016) the line of least resistence. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2016) 3 – Ocean Pike ** F6c Quality climbbing up the steep wall on good holds 9 – Free Admission F5 FA: Francis Haden (2016) Follow Coast to Coast to the first roof. From here break out right, across Immersed, and make a long diagonal 4 – Marine Interdiction ** F7a traverse across the wall to anchors on Ocean Lark. Follow Ocean’s 3 to the big jug before launching up the FA: Francis Haden, Darian Chan (2016) wall to the left. FA: Francis Haden (2016) 10 – Ocean Lark * F5

5 – Ocean’s 3 *** F6c FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok One of the lines of the crag leading up the steep wall (2016) from near the toe of the ramp. FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 11 – A Drop in the Ocean F5 (2016) FA: Francis Haden, Neil Carruthers, Donna Kwok 6 – Cruise Control ** F6c+ (2016) Another sustained line up the steep wall on positive holds. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2016) 19 HongKongClimbing

The Cove Deep Water Soloing in the cove on the west coast of the island. Access is by following the main path to the summit of Ap Lei Pai. Shortly after this, break right and bushwhack down the hill to reach easy scrambles down on either side of the crag.

Recommended to only use this venue for DWS during high tides as its pretty shallow in places. Also be careful of the rocks beneath the mouth of the right side of the crag. This crag was only first experimented with in late-2019 so some suspect rock may still re- main. Caution and cleaning recommended for further development.

The Cove - Right

Nothing topped out yet but plenty to aim for…

Potential lines shown for inspiration! All of these require a low traverse (or abseil) to access if you want to stay dry. The main wall looks awesome but could probably do with cleaning to check for loose rock. It also gets shallower in this area so be careful! Easiest way back out of the water is to swim around the big boulder and climb onto the small block behind it. You can rock hop to shore from here (just time it with the waves).

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The Cove - Left

Currently only a couple of easy’ish lines climbed – Lines 1 and 2 both have relatively safe splashdown depths. The other line looks plausible but might be tricky to start (and stay dry) and could also get a bit shallow for a route that high? 1 – Splashdown ** F6a+ 2 – Fungal Toes ** F6a From the platform at the edge of the crag make a low Start as for Splashdown using the low traverse. From traverse right into the back of the corner. Move up the corner on that route, continue further right onto from here, through the small overlaps until a long reach blank looking rock, but with good holds. Once estab- brings a good jug above these. Continue up the wall lished on these continue directly up until you reach a above on small but positive crimps until common sense good ledge and can scramble back left to safety. tells you to escape out left. FA: Nick Street (2019) FA: Stuart Millis (2019)

Stuart Millis making exploratory forays up the right wall Photos: Joost Swetter

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Left Wall

This collection of high quality, but somewhat short, traditional climbs gives you a good ex- cuse to dust off the trad rack and try and remember how to place your own protection for a change. Most routes have convenient bolt belays set back just beyond the top of the routes. 1 – Gunpowder ** F6c+ 6 – Flake Away E1 5b The steep wall left of the arete. A large cam protects moves onto the ledge, arrange gear FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) then follow the vertical crack above. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 2 – Lean Too * VS 4b Start just right of the arête. Climb onto the ledge; place 7 – Crack Attack VS 4c a good cam and step left then move up to a series of The obvious vertical crack provides a well protected ex- overlaps. Pull directly over using a good jug out left ercise in hand jamming. and gain the top. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2015) 8 – Cream Pai ** HVS 5b 3 – Starboard Side - Hard Severe A well protected line offering fantastic climbing and a The line of ledge, flakes and cracks. sting in the tail. FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2015) 4 – Tuff Love** E2 5c 9 – Tuff Enough? E1 5b One of the lines of the crag. Obvious and compelling. Start left of the mid height roof. Climb up into a small Although short, the steep corner crack packs a lot in to niche and arrange gear. Pull out on the right and follow the small distance it covers. a thin crack, with a testing exit. Sufficient gear exists FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) however it is awkward to place on lead. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 5 – Crab Walk HVS 5a Start below a small corner. Awkward moves left gain 10 – Sulphur Shuffle* F6a entry to the corner above and flake line. A small cam A short bolted route up the right side of the arete, using protects the exit. laybacks and crimps. FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015)

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11 – Left Wall F5 14 – Ships That Pass All Day & Night HVS The short wall right of the arete. 5a FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) Start below the blocky arête. A medium cam protects the start as you climb the arête from the left hand side 12 – Rough and Tuff - Hard Severe to a rest point at mid height. Arrange gear and finish The obvious corner. direct. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden (2015) 13 – Do I Get Vouchers With This? E1 5a 15 – Down by the Sea - Hard Severe The wall right of the corner forces a tricky and difficult The obvious curved crack. to protect route up the crag. You have been warned... FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden (2015)

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The Prow Located on the very far end of Ap Lei Pai, The Prow provides a compact buttress of gently overhanging sport routes in a stunning setting. Good swimming can also be had just beyond the cliffs, making for a nice day out.

1 - Siren Call ** F5, 6 - Draggin’ Along ** F6b+ The obbvious corner line on the left side of the crag. Big moves through the stacked roofs low down lead to FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) a crux finish on crimps. FA: Francis Haden (2015) 2 - Bullet Tuff** F6a+ A pleasantly sustained route on positive holds. 7 - The Drilling Fields* F4 FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) The obvious right slanting ramp and corner. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) 3 - All to Port ** F6b Reasonable climbing leads into the left facing groove 8 - Sideshow F5 and the crux to finish. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) 4 - The Prow** F6b+ 9 - Exit Right F5 Climbb the prominent arete directly on good holds until reaching the undercut rest of All to Port. From here, FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) launch out right to good holds and a few more tricky moves to the anchors. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 5 - Dragging Anchor ** F6b Climb the narrow wall and corner system to the right of the prominent rib. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015)

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Jack Lin on The Devil Wears Prana (F7c) Photos: Karen Chan