Ap Lei Chau AP LEI CHAU 3 HongKongClimbing GENERAL A diverse collection of crags in two main areas, Ap Lei Chau and Ap Lei Pai. The climbing here covers just abbout all style imaginable and is sure to keep you entertained for many many weekends. Some routes are tidal so its worth checking out the Hong Kong Observa- tory webpages first to time your visits to when the water will be lowest. AccESS The crags at Ap Lei Chau are best approached from the end of Lee Nam Road, which can be reached relatively easily either on foot or by taxi from South Horizons MTR station. From the end of the road, follow the little alley on the left along the side of the building, staying right to some steps that allow you to climb over the wall. After this follow a via ferrata like trail that contours along the coastline via a combination of scrambling, wooden planks, old boat ropes and even the odd steel ladder. The difficulty of this and the need tom use the above features varies depending on the tide. This trail will eventually lead to Welcome Wall and, after a short scramble descent, the boardwalk beneath The Depot. Other areas at Ap Lei Chau are reached by scrambling along the coastline between here and the small beach connecting to Ap Lei Pai. The crags on Ap Lei Phi (excluding Ocean Wall) are reached via the obvious dirt trail leaving the right side of the beach. It is also possible to reaches beach by hiking over the hill from Lei Tung Estate, but seriously, why would you when there’s a quicker less strenuous option available. A third option to get here is to take a Sampan from Aberdeen Harbour. 4 Ap Lei Chau AccESS MAPS 5 HongKongClimbing CLIMBING AREAS: Ap Lei Chau Areas Welcome Wall: A couple of short routes on the first wall reached. The Gallery:A handful of routes ninth small zawn just beyond Welcome Wall. Most routes affected by the tide and required abseil access to hanging stances. The Depot:This crag is basically like a modern bouldering gym on steroids. Steep, powerful routes on (generally) positive holds. Partially tidal on the left side. The Fury Wall: Quality face climbing up a sustained steep face providing some of the best routes at this area. Yellow Wall: A mix of short slabby routes and steeper, longer lines up prominent features provides a good selection of routes at moderate grades. Dump Wall: Short (very short) climbs up the slightly scrappy walls on the right side of the cliffs as they descend in height. The Den:A combination of steep lines on the right and slab lines on the left provides a well shaded area to keep you busy. Some lines affected by the tide. Ap Lei Pai Areas Ocean Wall: The small cover on the NE tip of the island offers a variety of styles for mid- grade climbs, coupled with some additional potential for deep water soloing of some lines and (for the fainter of heart) some smaller scale cliff jumping/swimming. The Cove:The small cove/cave on the west coast offers and handful of existing and a lot more potential for DWS routes. Water depth can be marginal for this at low tide however so a good degree of experience and caution is advised. Left Wall: A long wall of short (predominantly traditionally protected) routes on compact high quality rock. With enough pads, some climbs could even be treated as high ball boul- der problems. The Prow:A collection of high quality routes on steep rock on the buttresses at the far end of the island. 6 Ap Lei Chau WElcOME WALL The short wall of Welcome Wall is the first distinct crag reached when approaching along the coastline. The wall itself offers a few pleasant introductory climbs for beginners as well as a couple of steeper fiercer routes forcing through the headwall at the top of the crag. 1 - There’s No Mat F6b+ 4 - Feudal Enterprises F4 Straightforward climbing leads to the technical corner, FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) which is taken direct. FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok (2015) 5 - Welcome F4 To the right of the fixed ropes is a short wall of solid 2 - Point Break F6c rock. Technical climbing on the lower wall capped with a FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok (2015) dyno finish! FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 6 - Barnacle Crush F6a FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2016) 3 - Tuff Trip F6c The finish is similar to a campus board session. 7 - Fish Fingers F6a FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2016) 7 HongKongClimbing 8 Ap Lei Chau THE GALLERY A collection of routes in the small zawn provide good opportunity to hone sea cliff climbing skills. Most routes have tidal bases and utilise hanging belays so a clam sea is recommended. 1 - Lean to Port F6a 5 - The Lip Trip F6c+ FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok (2015) Start as for Manic Volcanic but at a prominent jug ad- jacent to the third bolt, pull right out of the roof to a 2 - Close to the Wind F6a+ crux on the lip. FA: Francis Haden, Sue Hazel, Donna Kwok (2015) FA: Francis Haden (2016) 3 - Plain Sailing F6a 6 - Promenade Facade F4 FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee(2015) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje (2015) 4 - Manic Volcanic F6c+ Taking the steepest line through the cave roof, this 7 - Time to Get Physical F6a is an unusual kind of route to be found in Hong FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje Kong. Despite the need for particular conditions (2015) and abseil access, this climb is well worth the effort. FA: Francis Haden (2016) 8 - Sinking Slowly F5 FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Gloria Nortje (2015) Joost Swetter on The Fury (F7a) Photos: Stuart Millis 9 HongKongClimbing Nick Street getting Press Gang(ed) (F7b) Photos: Stuart Millis 10 Ap Lei Chau THE DEPOT Steep powerful ‘gym’ style climbing through the roofs abbove the boardwalk. The left side of the crag is tidal. 1 - Walk the Plank * F6b 7 - Diesel Power ** F7b One of the steepest routes you’re likely to find in Hong FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) Kong! Tackle the steepest portion of the cliff via gymnastic 2 - Black Watch F6c hard moves and a healthy dose of power and stamina. FA: Neil Carruthers (2017) FA: Francis Haden (2015) 8 - The Devil Wears Prana *** F7c 3 - Crimson Tide F6b+ The test piece of the crag. Long dynamic moves, a dyno at mid height and a pow- FA: Francis Haden (2016) erful finish equate to a route that shorter climbers will certainly find harder. 4 - The Rush to Crush F6a+ FA: Neil Carruthers (2016) FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 9 - Press Gang *** F7b A fine bouldery route up the steep wall left of the cor- 5 - Lean Burn *** F7a ner. The difficulties may be short lived but it still packs a punch. FA: Francis Haden (2015) Initial moves on positive crimps, pockets and breaks bring you to an awkward clip and powerful pulls on 6 - Shark Attack ** F7a small crimps up the blank section of wall (a bit of extra A fantastic excursion thorugh the steepest part of the height is a definite advantage here). These lead (hope- crag. Positive holds lead powerfully through the roofs fully) to good ledges, which are followed to the top. to follow a leftwards trending line of weakness. Climb FA: Colin Rouse (2015) quick to avoid powering out! FA: Francis Haden (2016) 10 - Final Approach *** F6c Good climbing up the obvious left facing corner with a fun finish. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) 11 - Down by the Sea F5+ FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) 12 - Sideshow F6a+ FA: Francis Haden, Eugenie Knipper, Jon Knipper, Sue Hazel (2016) 11 HongKongClimbing THE FURY WALL Sustained steep face climbing on the compact wall to the right of The Depot offers a good contrast to the steep routes nearby. 1 - Collision Course ** F6b+ 4 - Simple Face *** F7a The left side of the main wall offers a fine exercise in FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) cranking on crimps! Sadly this route often suffers from seepage issues. 2 - Jumping Judy *** F6b+ FA: Francis Haden, Ray Lee (2015) Big power moves on good holds after the second bolt. FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok (2015) 5 - One Ice Cream away from Happiness ** F6c+ 3 - Surf to Sun ** F5, F6b A pleasant route up the left side of the main portion of A fun outing taking the obvious left-to-right trending Fury Wall. Good holds lead to a more committing crux ramp, concluding with an exposed traverse beneath the at mid-height, beyond which further positive ledges roof that is decidedly easier if you are short. Take note and side pulls will bring the top (provided the pump that this climb crosses all the other Fury Wall routes so doesn’t set in…). avoid choosing this during busy times! FA: Francis Haden, Donna Kwok, Ray Lee (2015) FA: Francis Haden (2016) 12 Ap Lei Chau Claus Jacobs just a few moves away from earning ‘One Ice Cream’ (F6c+) Photos: Karen Chan 6 - The Fury *** F7a 8 - Direct Action * F6b+ A crag test piece that forces a sustained line up the A short technical and punchy little line up the clean centre of the wall. Tricky to on-sight but relatively corner on the right side of The Fury Wall.