Alsace Gewurztraminer Auction Results

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After an uncommonly high-scoring tasting, Andrew Jefford and co-tasters Charles Metcalfe and Jancis Robinson MW are convinced that Alsace’s much-maligned variety deserves much greater respect, its depth, breadth, and terroir expressiveness a match for any white wine style in the world

his tasting surprised us. Charles (2,000 acres). Nowhere else, moreover, between low and invisible. Many of the The top addresses and sites profile identified by all three tasters Metcalfe gave one wine a score of THE TIME HAS COME does Gewurztraminer perform with the difficulties of Gewurztraminer outside The two wines that won single scores of here. Hunawihr’s Clos Windsbuhl, T97 (“great wine of spellbinding TO SAY, CLEARLY AND conviction it shows in Alsace, though France spring from growers’ reluctance 97 were crafted by two of the region’s finally, does not lie in a grand cru beauty and resonance, leaving the UNAMBIGUOUSLY, it’s probably also true to say that only in to accept that fact, since to endow greatest wine growers and vinifiers, vineyard, though the vines are close drinker with a sense of wonder”), and so Alsace do growers fully understand and Gewurztraminer with a bright acid Olivier Humbrecht MW and Jean Boxler, to Rosacker and Schoenenbourg, a did I; together, we found a further nine THAT ALSACE accept the variety’s weird nature. balance by early picking or adjustment but it is no surprise to see how well the protected, relatively high location with wines meriting scores of 93 or above GEWURZTRAMINER It’s not an easy variety to grow: It is to denature it. Where, then, does wines of Meyer-Fonné performed, since thin soils of limestone and clay and (“outstanding wine of great beauty and IS ONE OF THE WORLD’S often has problems at flowering and its balance come from? A resonant, few can match Félix Meyer in terms of some rocky outcrops. The site merits articulacy”). Jancis Robinson MW was FINE WHITE WINES, ideally requires a long growing season haunting bitterness is certainly one the sumptuousness, creaminess, subtlety, promotion, as the scores achieved less enthusiastic than this but by no with alternating periods of heat and factor, and tannin another, though the and density of his Gewurztraminer. by the 2010 Zind-Humbrecht Clos means unenthusiastic, with ten wines AS DISTINGUISHED AND cooler weather. “It needs lots of sun and tannins may be embedded in the wine’s These are all great addresses. Dopff Windsbuhl Gewurztraminer underline. scored at either 92 or 93 (and among BEAUTIFUL IN ITS WAY warmth, but it also needs to ripen as glycerol and sugars to such an extent as Au Moulin may be best known for those ten, the two contrasting wines AS WHITE BURGUNDY slowly as possible,” summarizes Olivier to be impalpable. Aromatic wealth itself Crémant, but its Grand Cru range is AVERAGE AND RANGE OF SCORES that Charles and I scored at 97). This is Humbrecht MW. Choosing the perfect is a further source of balance. It is, too, outstanding, too, especially the Sporen Average Range an uncommonly lofty crop of scores for AND SAUTERNES moment at which to pick it is a challenge. one of those varieties capable of Gewurztraminer; while few long-term our Savor series of tastings. He continues, “My father used to say exhibiting the ballast of “mineral” observers of the Alsace scene will be Tasting 88 70–97 The surprise lies in the fact that MW and José Vouillamoz). Genetically that once it’s ripe, you need to wait for flavors, as some of our notes suggest. surprised to see the Cave de Turckheim our subject was the often-derided speaking, in other words, Savagnin and a month before it’s actually ready to Since it requires a long hang-time for achieve a top-six finish. This is one of AJ 88 74–97 Gewurztraminer. Perhaps the time has Gewurztraminer are “the same variety,” harvest. It needs that time to get beyond full flavor development, and since its France’s outstanding cooperatives and CM 88 70–97 come to say, clearly and unambiguously, despite the fact that the greatest wines the ‘bottled perfume’ stage to being a real sugar levels rise easily, it is usually a an ever-reliable source of benchmark that Alsace Gewurztraminer is one made from each are as comprehensive wine.” Its thick skins are an advantage heady white: 13.5% is normal. wines at every level. JR 89 84–93 of the world’s fine white wines, as a contrast to one another as any in the when it comes to waiting out the full The permitted Alsace yields It’s also worth noting the grand cru distinguished and beautiful in its wine world. To complete the strangeness, length of a summer, though these skins are often too high to make quality names that emerged at the top of our own way as are white Burgundy and this polyvalent variety is now known to tend to thin and refine as the season Gewurztraminer (the official limit is lists. Sporen in Riquewihr provided ANDREW JEFFORD’S TOP WINES Sauternes. Stylistically, indeed, it might be close kin to Pinot Noir. Other than advances. Botrytis is welcome at the end 80hl/ha for the Alsace AOC and 55–66hl/ two of the top six: Its gentle, southeast- Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer Brand Grand Cru almost be said to lie midway between to acknowledge a shared potential for of the season, though not essential; this, ha for grand cru AOCs), and the main facing clay marls always feature among 2015 97 the two. Alsace Gewurztraminer, grandeur, it seems kindest to forget indeed, is a wine that can vary from clones planted during the 1970s, clones Alsace’s greatest Gewurztraminer sites. Meyer-Fonné Gewurztraminer Vieilles Vignes moreover, expresses its sites and these links. cleanly dry to unctuously sweet, and even 47 and 48, are overly fertile, with big Hengst in Wintzenheim rivals it: Sporen Grand Cru 2015 95 summarizes its region as memorably the sweet versions need not necessarily bunches and grapes. Lower yields and another marly, gently sloping site Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Hengst as does Riesling, though in highly Accepting it for what it is be botrytized. It likes the sunniest and quality plant selections, therefore, overwhelmingly planted with Grand Cru 2013 95 Meyer-Fonné Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf Grand contrastive style. Gewurztraminer’s lilac-colored grapes best-exposed sites of the region, and its are essential to avoid the confection, Gewurztraminer. Ammerschwihr’s Cru 2015 94 The variety is the fruit of genetic have been harvested in Alsace since the soils of choice are limey marls, though vulgarity, and triviality that can dog Kaefferkopf is a more complex site with Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer Réserve 2015 92 strangeness—or more accurately, it 18th century, though this name only it will flourish on other soil types, too. the variety here. Gentle pressing, no calcareous sandstone soils, recognized Domaine Muré Clos St Landelin Gewurztraminer illustrates the limits of using genetics to appears for the first time in the latter When grown in granite soils, its skin contact, and a slightly warmer since the 14th century for its quality Grand Cru 2013 92 understand varietal character. Savagnin half of the 19th century; nowadays, it characteristic flamboyance becomes fermentation temperature than for potential, and the Meyer-Fonné Ostertag Gewurztraminer Fronholz A l’Orient Rose is a color mutation of Savagnin, occupies around 3,150ha (7,780 acres), muted—to the extent that Philippe Alsace’s other whites are the main Gewurztraminer holdings are in old d’Eden 2016 92 Domaine Schoffit Gewurztraminer Rangen Clos and Gewurztraminer is an aromatic or around 20 percent of the total Blanc says that Gewurztraminer grown winemaking requirements. Sweetness vines, planted in 1965. Turckheim’s Saint-Theobald Grand Cru 2015 92 mutation of Savagnin Rose (according vineyard area. These are by far the on granite is “anti-Gewurztraminer.” levels vary greatly, as you will see from Brand is one of the region’s sunniest Cave de Turckheim Gewurztraminer Brand Grand to Wine Grapes, authored by Jancis largest plantings in the world; few other The most notable characteristic of our notes, and will dictate the use to sites—but one that has granite soils; Cru 2013 92 Robinson herself, with Julia Harding locations can boast more than 800ha the variety is that its acid levels vary which the wine is put. note the cleanness and freshness of

Meyer-Fonné Gewurztraminer litchi and lemon zest to the toast. The palate of spice-furnace succulence, with a splendidly almost burned mineral note, too. An outstanding, broad-shouldered, generous, and long: a low- JR | Deep gold. Fragrant and very obviously SAVOR: ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER Kaefferkopf Grand Cru 2015 93 is almost painfully intense, with high acidity, a “mineral” aftertaste that takes us way beyond very serious Gewurztraminer: long, balanced, yielding, lusciously honeyed Gewurz from a Gewurz on the nose. Then bitter and pungent (13.5% ABV, 37g/l RS) lean, lemony-toasty side, and great richness and mere fruit and fruit sugars. Truly fine wine; resonant, and refined.| 95 fine site, with ample varietal style. It’s carrying on the palate—very Gewurz! Very intriguing weight as well. It’s all larger than life and may just truly unique. No acidity at all, but splendidly CM | Golden-colored, and pleasantly mature. its years perfectly: That’s what’s lifted off the and rewarding. Positively flamboyant! Drink AJ | Pale to mid-gold-yellow in color. Very need more time to settle down. But the length is balanced nonetheless, with those extracts, that This has creamy, toasty aromas, as well as aromatic richness, but the benefit is the harmony 2017–25. | 92 attractive, very present, very assertive but fabulous, the intensity superb, and the potential “mineral” note, and the divine faint bitterness litchi and lemon. The palate is gentle and and resonance and fullness and breadth on the engaging scents of honeydew, peach, tangerine, longevity amazing. | 97 that is another Gewurztraminer birthright. evolved, in a very appealing way. Flavors palate. A very good effort. | 89 Domaine Albert Mann and litchi, with a fine spice mist drifting over JR | Dark apricot color. Rich and vibrant and Chapeau! | 95 of toast, cream, and lemon mingle, with an CM | Lovely, golden color. Rich, opulent aromas, Gewurztraminer Steingrubler 91 all. There’s also a fine vegetal complexity: with sweet apricot fruit. Good sturdy freshness. CM | This has a very fresh, lemony aspect to the agreeably darker note. A wine for now, rather maturing well, with toasty, honeyed intensity. Grand Cru 2013 jasmine, but the leaf as well as the blossoms. Still admirably youthful. A bit bitter. Drink aromas. The palate is fresh, and the sweetness than to keep. | 90 The palate is dominated by honeyed ripeness, (13% ABV; 35g/l RS) Mouthwatering and enticing; fine complexity. On 2016–20. | 92 disguises the youth. There’s enough acidity to JR | Second bottle needed. Deep copper color. but has the exotic litchi side, as well. And the the palate, that excitement is maintained: It’s an balance the sugar, though this is high. It’s like Not an immediate nose but good race and grip acidity is marvelous, lightening and tightening AJ | Bright mid-gold. This is quite an earthy excitingly lush, deep, creamy effort, with superb a big, floppy puppy at present, eager to please on the palate. Molten green somehow. Clean the whole wine. It may be seven years old and Gewurz that almost has some vegetal tones. depth, poise, and finesse. Despite the sugar of and a bit out of control. I’m not entirely sure and fresh. Not that deep-flavored but with already delicious, but it has a great future ahead Lemon cream behind; complex, if not a 37g/l, the very final breath after the wine has the sweetness may not outbalance the rest, lots of easy appeal. And with some pungency of it, as the lean, toasty length shows. | 95 prominent charmer. Despite the 35g/l, this gone is still full of breeze and lift and purity. A though. | 87 underneath. Real grip. Drink 2015–21. | 92 JR | Dark apricot color. Very sweet and rich. Not comes across as quite light, deft, and elegant, generous Gewurztraminer, but one of glorious JR | Mid-golden straw. Very little on the nose. the most appetizing. Some gingerbread notes. with an acid balance but not with huge depth, finesse, too. Hats off to whoever grew and Full-bodied and opulent. Immediately makes Very broad and rich. Lilies to the fore! Drink succulence, or drive. Well made and full of vinified this spellbinding wine. | 94 me think of enjoying this with a range of spicy 2014–19. | 89 pleasure, though it wouldn’t be a bottle I’d CM | A very golden color compared with most of dishes please! Attractive bitter finish. So full squirrel away. | 87 the other 2015s. Rich, opulent, and sensual, and and bursting with life. Lots of grip and masses of CM | Relatively quiet, but with more to say already showing perfume and aromas. Exotic ripe fruit. Sweetish and gorgeous! So long and than some of the other 2015s. Creamy, honey and opulent, this is very much of a whole, with intense. Clean and absorbing. Truly spicy. Drink and barley-sugar aromas. Sweetness is quite lovely flavor intensity and excellent balance. And 2017–24. | 93 high but well balanced by acidity. This shows this will develop much further with more time in promise, with the structural elements in place, bottle. | 92 Cave de Turckheim and already some exotic, perfumed flavor. JR | Coppery straw. Light nose. Very rich and Dopff Au Moulin Gewurztraminer Brand 92 It just needs a couple of years to sort itself dense on the palate, which is quite subtle Gewurztraminer Sporen de 92 Grand Cru 2013 out. | 91 and layered. Intense. Vibrant and long. Very Riquewihr Grand Cru 2015 (13% ABV; 28.1g/l RS) JR | Mid-straw. Relatively straightforward attention-grabbing. Really serious stuff. I love the (12.5% ABV; 55g/l RS) but with very good varietal integrity. High- seriousness of this. Very rich but not just sweet. AJ | Bright mid-gold. A lovely scent: billowing toned and decidedly bitter on the end. Lots of Drink 2017–24. | 93 AJ | Still a relatively pale gold. This is a very jasmine and ginger cream, but there’s a sweetness—but well-placed sweetness. Long. enticing, very becoming glassful of scent: so freshness and poise and precision to this that Domaine Bott-Geyl Drink 2016–22. | 92 Domaine Zind Humbrecht delicately spiced, so vivid and vibrant, so pure. is very winning. Very hard not to sip if you’ve Gewurztraminer Sonnenglanz 91 Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl Sweet fruits (apricot and peach), soft spices, just smelled this. Splendid wine on the palate, Grand Cru 2010 93 2010 (13.5% ABV; 60g/l RS) fresh cream, and the hint of the white truffle too: deft, creamy, and long, and with so much (13% ABV; 58g/l RS) to come... Fine work here. On the palate, it scented jasmine in here you might almost AJ | Full yellow-gold. A lovely scent: walnuts is certainly generously sweet yet also richly imagine it contained 30 percent Viognier. That AJ | Deep mid-yellow-gold. Rich and burnished, and white mushrooms, with a bacon hock in the aromatic, with plenty of depth and aromatic superb aromatic profile helps it carry its sugars sweet, but gently savory, too. Some bacon fat background somewhere. Mature but enticing. power: fine Gewurz. It doesn’t have the absolute with great grace and lift. A complete charmer. here, as if it had 5 percent PG. The benefits of Luscious, full, gratifying, and intense on the saturation (perfume, variety, terroir) of the very Leaves the mouth fresh and clean—and keen for age: plump, ample, comfortable, but aromatically palate: rounded, vivid, vigorous, with ample acid best, but it’s a benchmark late-harvest style the next sip.| 92 not a show-stopper. On the palate, it is rich, balance but ample Gewurz style, too. A first-rate of wine of resonant classicism that leaves the CM | Light, floral, rose-petal aroma. This effort here. Absolutely ready now. | 91 mouth clean, fresh, and poised. | 91 seems quite simple, but in a very attractive, Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer CM | Mid-gold color. Dark, honeyed, toasty, CM | Mid-gold color. Lean, lemony, toasty appealingly floral way. Acidity is fresh and BRIGHT MID-GOLD. Brand Grand Cru 2015 91 and maturing beautifully. The aromas add aromas. The palate is restrained and taut, with buoyant, the flavor is floral and appealing, and (13.8% ABV; 35g/l RS) high acidity, toasty, candied lemon peel flavors, the sweetness is beautifully balanced. Probably SWEET, LUSCIOUS, and sweetness well balanced by the acidity. It’s not a wine to shut away in the cellar but instead AND FRESH, YET VERY AJ | Bright mid-gold. Sweet, luscious, and young and vigorous, and I’m sure it has more to enjoy soon. | 91 fresh, yet very generous, too: There’s almost COPPERY STRAW. to come. Give this another five years, then look JR | Deep gold. Savory and pungent. Exciting GENEROUS, TOO: a figgy note to the spiced melon and soft LIGHT NOSE. VERY again. | 94 and sleek, with the sweetness a minor THERE’S ALMOST A tangerine. Gosh—once in the mouth, you see JR | Pale yellow-straw. Interesting and subtle ingredient. Rich but not sweet. Great satin its freight and power: magnificent density Blanck Gewurztraminer RICH AND DENSE ON combination of richness and raciness. Lip- texture. Very clean and fresh. Drink 2016– FIGGY NOTE TO THE and complexity here, and certainly a wine Furstentum Grand Cru Vieilles 90 smacking, with the sugar very well covered. 23. | 93 SPICED MELON AND with a long future ahead. Commanding stuff. Vignes 2012 (13% ABV; 39.9g/l RS) THE PALATE, WHICH Long and very lively, despite the sugar. Drink Lushly and ripely fruity, as I’ve indicated, but IS QUITE SUBTLE AND 2016–20. | 92 Domaine Zind Humbrecht SOFT TANGERINE. also dense, creamy, and complex in a very AJ | Pale to mid-gold. Lots of spice lift here, LAYERED. INTENSE. Gewurztraminer Hengst 92 GOSH—ONCE IN THE unobvious, subtle, and intriguing manner. though the sweetness is balanced by a meat- Meyer-Fonné Gewurztraminer Grand Cru 2013 The legacy of a fine vineyard or botrytis? and-bean undertow, a quiet vegetal pulse. VIBRANT AND LONG. Vieilles Vignes Sporen 92 (13.5% ABV; 45g/l RS) MOUTH, YOU SEE ITS Perhaps both, but I incline more to the former. Generous, soft, full, earthy-spicy; relatively VERY ATTENTION- Grand Cru 2015 FREIGHT AND POWER: Masterful and complete, anyway—a reference delicate in terms of the expression of its (13.5% ABV; 41g/l RS) AJ | Mid- to full gold. Bottle 1: Creamy, rich, bottle for this tasting. Splendid “mineral,” sweetness, but very complex in terms of the GRABBING. REALLY succulent, and decadent, though with a touch MAGNIFICENT DENSITY stone finish. Young still. | 97 overall spectrum of flavors. Not the most AJ | Mid-gold. Very ginger-sweet and rich, of oxidative tang. Bottle 2: A lighter color, and AND COMPLEXITY, AND CM | A closed, rather tongue-tied youngster, “typical” wine on the table, but very good and SERIOUS STUFF. I LOVE yet with an aromatic architecture to it as no evidence of oxidation. Friendly and plenty with not much to say yet. The elements seem very moreish. | 91 THE SERIOUSNESS OF well: luscious, spicy, full, almost truffley. That of honeyed fruit charm. Vivid, deep, supple, A WINE WITH A LONG okay, with decent acidity to balance the CM | Aromatic, advanced, with litchi and honey fungal complexity is what really brings the honeyed, and rich on the palate, and from a very FUTURE AHEAD. sweetness and highish alcohol. The finish is still notes. The palate is soft and easy-drinking, with THIS. VERY RICH BUT interest to this fine aromatic profile. On the good site, I would say, with great depth and dumb, with a little barley sugar and litchi at last. well-developed litchi and barley-sugar flavors. NOT JUST SWEET palate, this is evidently an outstanding effort: penetration, plenty of peach skin and apricot COMMANDING STUFF Ungainly at the moment, and it is hard to say if Acidity is good, and the balance works well, dense, rich, saturated, powerful, a great roar skin, as well as the fruits themselves, and with an it will become more graceful. | 84 even though sugar is high. | 88

JR | Heady and tropical flowery. Round and fruit flavor, lovely fresh acidity, and an open, sweetness. At a delightful point in its evolution. Cave de Ribeauvillé wine: the acidity, the alcohol, the sugar level, the SAVOR: ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER opulent. With a smudgy undertow of Gewurz’s inviting character. Lovely now; maybe not to I’d drink this now. | 90 Gewurztraminer Collection intensity of flavor. It all needs to settle down in COULD ALMOST BE A seductive charm. Finishes with smokiness. keep. | 90 JR | Deep copper. Very sweet start and some Vendanges Manuelles 2016 90 a cool cellar for a few years. But when it comes CHENIN BLANC. THIS IS Long. Immediate appeal for everyone, I JR | Deep coppery straw. Subtle, savory, floral Gewurz character—heady lilies?—and (13.5% ABV; 12.5g/l) together, it will be excellent. | 93 would imagine. But lighter than some. Drink appetizing Gewurz notes on the nose. Racy, a little bit of reverberation on the finish. A tad JR | Mid-straw. Sweet, sugary nose. Thick and (FOR ME) TRUE OF THE 2015–20. | 92 energetic wine that soars above its RS level. simple. But good intensity. Savory. Long. Drink AJ | Silver-green in color, and a fresh and almost syrupy with some angular acidity and chew PALATE, TOO: IT’S Really very accomplished and superior. The 2016–20. | 89 grassy scent, with just a little musky edge; tea on the end. Just a bit sickly. Youthful. Drink overwhelming impression is of Gewurz flavor leaf, too. Lightly attractive. Fresh, graceful, 2017–22. | 85 GENEROUS, WELL not sweetness. This wine shows how it’s creamy, and poised—an excellent choice for ROUNDED, AND SWEET done—with light bitterness on the end. Drink those who are slightly shy of the style: It is Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2015–22. | 92 accurate and quietly charming, without being in Gewurztraminer Steingrubler any way baroque. | 91 Grand Cru 2015 89 Domaine Muré Clos CM | Rather closed and dumb, with alcohol (13.3% ABV; 28.8g/l) CM | Yellow with a suggestion of gold. Honeyed St Landelin Gewurztraminer showing on the nose. It’s very young and will sweetness dominates aromas at present, with Grand Cru 2013 90 probably open out. Acidity is fresh and very well AJ | Mid-gold; bright. Cream, ginger, tangerine, a hint of lemon zest. This is very young, with (13.5% ABV; 32g/l RS) in balance with other components. There’s a gathered barley, and then a little quiet gardenia an appley youth that will be smoothed away by little sweetness, and flavors and aromas develop richness behind—intriguing, if not wholly time in bottle. At the moment, it’s all a bit too AJ | Back a vintage and into full light gold now; in the mouth as the wine warms up. The finish is enchanting, as some of its peers are. Very rich much—high acidity, high alcohol, and high sugar. Kuentz-Bas Gewurztraminer handsome. Deep, rich, complex: instantly you on the dark side of the Gewurz spectrum: a hint on the palate, concentrated, too, tangy and It’s almost more like rather exotic spiced apple Pfersigberg Trois Châteaux know that you are in front of a serious and of toast, barley sugar, and a touch of litchi. | 88 long, and exotic in style, suggesting Japanese juice than wine. But the length is just beginning Grand Cru 2012 90 possibly profound Gewurz. Deep fruits with JR | Very pale greenish straw. Very light, high- mushrooms and salted cream and strange to show the way it might go. You have to wait (14% ABV; 26.4g/l RS) some freshness, as well as lots of honeyed spice; acid nose. Very youthful, with some fermentation hothouse blooms... I’m enjoying it enormously for this. Probably not among the very best, botrytized complexities. Age has swiped the Ostertag Fronholz aromas still hanging around but refined and and I’d love to drink a bottle, but it is definitely a but worth waiting for five years to see where it AJ | Clear mid-gold. Pineapple and creamy florals somewhat, but the mushroomy richness Gewurztraminer A l’Orient quite delicate with low phenolics. Racy and just a wine for looking at in attentive isolation since the goes. | 90 mango scents. Quite a tropical-fruit style here; of age is ample recompense. On the palate, d’Eden 2016 90 suggestion of sweetness. Builds to a peacock’s- sweetness (being less supported by fruit than JR | Deep straw. Easy, sweet. Gingery but a dusty note; a touch fudgy. Lots to like, but it is classical, pure, and rich, its sugars well (12.5% ABV; 48g/l RS) tail finish. Should develop into something quite for some of its peers) is striking. I think Gewurz without real focus. Lots of volume but less focus. less pristine and fine than some of its peers. qualified by the complexities both of age and special. Drink 2018–24. | 90 is so extraordinary that one ought to let it just be Drink 2017–22. | 89 Juicy, round, soft, full and gratifying—more of concentration. Floral spice and mushroomy, AJ | Light mid-gold in color. A rich, graceful however it wants to be. A fascinating outlier. | 91 mango fruit and some orange citrus, too, lent earthy richness come together admirably here. bough of sweet scent: honeyed, with fine fruits Domaine Schoffit CM | Tight, quite lean, and at the same time Domaine Albert Mann dignity by its spice. Generously contoured and Impressive wine. Deep, round, mature; perfectly (dessert apple, peach, pineapple), creamy soft Gewurztraminer Rangen exotic. Needs time. This is coiled and waiting, Gewurztraminer Steingrubler unmistakable, but lacks a little inner nerve and ready for me. | 92 and packed with charm. It’s young as yet, but Clos Saint-Theobald Grand Cru 90 but with good elements and intensity. Acidity Grand Cru 2015 89 sinew. | 88 CM | Lovely golden color to this. Creamy, toasty, bodes well. Excellent Gewurz on the palate: 2015 (13.5% ABV; 59g/l RS) balances the other components well, and there’s (13.5% ABV; 37g/l RS) CM | Open, floral, exotic, and evolved, with litchi aromas. The palate is rich and seductive, lush, dense, rich, and resonant, packed with an underlying litchi and barley-sugar flavor, but litchi and barley-sugar aromas. Very appealing. with opulent, Turkish-delight rose-petal layered fruit sweetness and spiced warmth. AJ | Mid-white gold. Very beautiful this has not yet reached its moment. | 90 AJ | Pale silver-straw in color. Lively, vivid, fresh, This tastes ready to enjoy, with attractive, litchi fragrance and enough acidity to balance the A young classic that could be aged with Gewurztraminer scent of cream, ginger, and JR | Deep gold. Rather simple nose. Lots of with orchard fruits (apple and pear) sent into a confidence.| 92 jasmine, with a hint of musk rose. How can sweetness on the palate. Light fruit intensity. Just sweet curve but without any notable spice or CM | Quite a golden color for a young wine. Has you resist anything that smells like this? Classy a medium-sweet white really, rather than a fine floral notes. Could almost be a Chenin Blanc. CHARLES METCALFE’S VERDICT aromatics that hint at barley sugar and litchi. It’s yet sensationally attractive, too. Very sugar- expression of Gewurz. Drink 2017–20. | 87 This is (for me) true of the palate, too: It’s weighty, young, and a bit ungainly at present, saturated, and within those sugars a great wealth generous, well rounded, and sweet, given life In the long-gone days when I was first learning were neither one thing nor another—not but it does have highish acidity to balance the of perfume—more so, in truth, than fruit wealth. and dignity by its orchard fruits, but with many about wine, there was a rule that said the sweet enough for dessert wines, but much sugar and a latent intensity that suggests a So, the result is a very sweet, very perfumed fewer Gewurztraminer keys than its peers. Still a best match for smoked salmon was Alsace too sweet to serve with most savory dishes. more interesting future. | 90 wine of impressive complexity and absolute very good wine and a wonderful drink. Perhaps a Gewurztraminer. Having tasted almost 50 Maybe the best food companions are strong, JR | Deep bronzey straw color. Not that much varietal fidelity: outstanding. The very greatest, question of site? | 90 Alsace Gewurztraminers in this tasting, I can mold-ripened cheeses. concentration. Just sweet, juicy wine. Nothing though, have just a little bit more: either some CM | Rather lean and reductive, with some imagine few worse matches. Best drinking at present seems to come from wrong with this wine with its bitter finish, but it’s fruit ballast, or a sense of earth and stone (also a lemony aroma. The palate is also tucked up and Is this because most Alsace producers the 2012 and 2013 vintages, with a few lovely just not compelling. Drink 2016–19. | 88 ballast). This is fine wine, but the sugars for the waiting, with lemony acidity, ripe honeyed fruit, have decided that their preferred style of older wines from 2008 and 2010. 2015 has time being have such an upper hand that I am and quite a lot of sugar. This needs time to get to Gewurztraminer has more residual sugar than produced some magnificent wines, the best not not sure where to find the ballast. Perhaps it will a more drinkable stage. | 88 used to be the case? The average sugar level nearly ready to drink. Leave them in the cellar come with time. | 92 JR | Bright deep straw. Light, rather simple nose. of these wines was over 30g/l (not what you till 2020 at the earliest. And the 2016s are also CM | Yellow with a glint of gold. Young and Sweet and round, with some Gewurz-in-a-cloud. want with an oily smoked fish!). much too young, though perhaps not with the vigorous, with tight lemon and litchi aromatics. Hint of red pepper. But not enough acidity, alas— The best wines in the tasting, however, aging ability of the 2015s. Very young, very restrained, but already despite the good grip on the end. Quite fresh. were very sweet, made in a full-bloodedly For the record, by the way, I don’t think showing the Gewurz signature flavors of litchi Drink 2017–20. | 89 late-picked style, opulent and exotic, whereas Alsace Gewurztraminer was ever much good and barley sugar. Everything is big about this many of the medium-sweet to sweet wines as a match for smoked salmon. Much better seemed to lack the intensity to age well and to go for the traditional smelly cheese option. Dirler-Cadé Gewurztraminer MID-WHITE GOLD. 89 TOP WINES Kitterlé Grand Cru 2016 VERY BEAUTIFUL (14% ABV; 80g/l RS) Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos Dopff Au Moulin Gewurztraminer Sporen de GEWURZ SCENT Windsbuhl 2010 97 Riquewihr Grand Cru 2015 94 AJ | Bright pale gold. Very young still, and almost undigested: lots of sweet pear and quince, but Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Furstentum Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer Furstentum OF CREAM, GINGER, Grand Cru 2008 96 Grand Cru 2013 94 AND JASMINE. HOW without any varietal cues for the time being. Hugely pretty, nonetheless. On the palate: a Domaine Bott-Geyl Gewurztraminer Sonnenglanz Domaine Schoffit Gewurztraminer Rangen Clos great wall of youthful crystallized sugar with fruit Grand Cru 2010 95 Saint-Theobald Grand Cru 2015 93 CAN YOU RESIST perfumes drifting through it, but nonetheless Domaine Schoffit Gewurztraminer Rangen Clos Meyer-Fonné Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf Grand ANYTHING THAT with nothing that really insists on challenging Saint-Theobald Grand Cru 2013 95 Cru 2015 92 SMELLS LIKE THIS? or being Gewurz. Judgment reserved, really, for such a young sweet wine. | 89

Cave de Ribeauvillé way. Charming and fleet of foot. Already you perhaps lose on the palate, since it can’t perhaps a lack of real complexity. Long and lift. On the palate, this is a little more richly spicy SAVOR: ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER Gewurztraminer 2016 89 approachable, with some grip on the end. Not THIS IS VERY quite match the aromatic charm of the wine. On reverberant. Drink 2016–20. | 89 than that fresh nose led one to expect. There’s (13% ABV; 22.5g/l RS) the most dramatic but very competent. Quite GRACEFUL—ALMOST the plus side, it’s quite a gutsy effort that would some sweetness, and it has a mouth-coating persistent. Drink 2017–22. | 89 go well with fatty food—and no one will fail to texture with plenty of glycerol, yet the freshness AJ | Steel green-gold. Super aromas: creamy, WILLOWY—WHICH spot the variety. | 89 of style returns at the finish and makes it a very seductive, and insinuating, spice-dusted, nougat- Domaines Schlumberger YOU CAN’T OFTEN SAY CM | Lovely, mature Gewurz aromas, with an clean, pungent, and classic example. | 90 rich, delicately honeyed, yet freshly fruited, too. Gewurztraminer Les Princes attractive golden note to the color. Mainly litchi, CM | A hint of something slightly rummy on the Spot on and subtle withal. On the palate, this is Abbés 2015 89 OF GEWURZTRAMINER. with a suggestion of witch hazel. The palate is nose. It could be a touch of rather dominant oak very graceful—indeed, almost willowy—which (13% ABV; 25.75g/l RS) THE FLORAL-SPICE mature, with richness and character. There’s barrel. It’s young and rather raw at present but you can’t often say of Gewurztraminer. The very good balancing acidity, and exotic length. has good acidity, balanced sweetness, and some floral-spice notes are picked out with great AJ | Pale mid-gold. Exuberant lifted spice and NOTES ARE PICKED Probably at peak point now. | 90 pleasantly candied aromatics lurking. Difficult restraint and subtlety, and the palate is tender, soft honey behind, over becomingly peachy OUT WITH GREAT JR | Deep pinky copper. Smudgy impact on the to judge now, but does have adequate length, graceful, light, and moreish. There’s a little fruits: a super scent. Honeydew melon adds nose—too alcoholic? Really quite a sweet start, with some barley-sugar and litchi eventually hazelnut richness on the finish. A Gewurz that to the fun. Juicy, full, and exuberant, with that RESTRAINT AND with some burnished metal and bitterness on the appearing. | 86 you’d be happy to drink a second or a third glass honeydew flavor well to the fore; glycerous and SUBTLETY, AND THE end. Quite dramatic! Food definitely needed with JR | Pale greenish straw. Fresh, light, and floral of, yet it would also satisfy the most finnicky of rich; and then plenty of spice hidden in the 26g/l this. Hot finish, though. Makes quite an impact. but without strong Gewurz character on the Gewurzophiles. | 91 sugars. A generous Gewurz of ample personality PALATE IS TENDER, Drink 2014–18. | 89 Domaine Barmès-Buecher nose. Sweet start and quite juicy and agreeable CM | Attractive, rose-petal aroma. Youthfully and flesh, but well balanced by its spice and its GRACEFUL, LIGHT, Gewurztraminer Hengst 88 with sugar/acid ratio satisfactory. Fairly long. charming. The palate is fresh and lively, with alcohol. | 90 Domaine Weinbach Grand Cru 2015 Neat and unshowy. Refreshing. May develop good acidity and pleasing flavors. It’s not a CM | Dark, restrained, litchi aromas. This is AND MOREISH Gewurztraminer Furstentum (13.9% ABV; 19.6g/l RS) into something even more impressive. Drink wine of great weight, and I wouldn’t expect young and quite closed, but it does have good Grand Cru 2013 89 2017–21. | 88 great things of this in the future. A “gather ye elements and should develop. Acidity is good, (13.5% ABV; 48g/l) AJ | Silver green-gold. An attractive, well-crafted rosebuds” type of wine. | 88 and balances other structural elements well. It aroma, which combines a soft, gentle spiciness JR | Pale straw. Light and very youthful on the has a creamy texture and good sweetness level; CM | Quite closed at present, with a little litchi AJ | Pale, mid-silver-gold. A big buzzy muddle with a quiet vegetal feltiness; perhaps a little rose nose. Nicely balanced in a sweetish rosewater it just needs time. | 88 escaping and a hint of lemon. Gentle litchi of bee-loud scent: vibrant, autumnal, must-like in the background, but none of the really obvious JR | Deep straw. Rather sweet and simple on and barley-sugar flavors, with sweetness just and generously sweet. Attractive if unpoised triggers are to the fore. Singular but pleasant. the nose, with the merest hint of struck match. about balanced by the acidity. It’s young and and rather simple. This sets the tone for the On the palate, the 20g/l shows prominently: It’s JANCIS ROBINSON MW’S VERDICT Something a little, and not unpleasantly, vegetal may develop further but is in a rather ungainly palate, too. You’d have to enjoy drinking it, very salty-creamy and lush but lacks a fruit core about this. Sweet start and then quite tingly and moment now. | 86 and within the sugars there are perfumed and supporting sap or spice. I’d enjoy drinking I can’t remember the last time I tasted a energetic on the end, so that the whole is not JR | Mid-straw. A little sugary on the nose. depths (thanks to the variety), but it is neither it but have to admit it is on the torpid side, range of Gewurzes! And I would have been unbalanced. But this is the sort of medium-sweet Some Gewurz pungency on the palate. Medium a great vin de terroir nor a great late-harvest though the aromatics are very interesting and happy to taste some from Alto Adige, wine that can be difficult to place in a drinking intensity and clean and fresh enough. But a incarnation of Gewurz. | 85 in some ways compelling. And it doesn’t lack Slovenia, and New Zealand, too. The tasting context. Clean finish. Drink 2017–21.| 89 difficult wine to fit into drinking plans, with its CM | Pale, yellow-gold color. Rich, creamy, concentration, either. | 86 was quite difficult because of the very medium-sweet dimension. Impressive length, opulent, and evolved aromas. Very appealing, CM | Dark, scented rose-petal aroma. Seems Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer different ages and vintages of the wines, however. Drink 2017–21. | 89 with lemon, honey, toast, cream, and spice. good for a young wine. This is opulent, Réserve 2015 88 which meant, among other things, that the It’s sweet but balanced by good acidity. This is restrained, and looks to have a good future. (13.5% ABV; 30g/l RS) colors varied widely, many as if they were lovely, aromatic, and creamy, with this lovely Flavors are appropriately exotic, the balance of in an evolutionary state. My impression of acidity and delightful length. And although acidity, sweetness, and alcohol is well judged, AJ | Full light gold. Soft and sweet. Back lacks a two of the vintages is that the 2011s are delicious now, will probably continue to evolve and there’s good, exotic, perfumed length. I’d little aromatic finesse and detail, though it has rather good, whereas many of the 2010s in bottle. | 94 leave this a couple of years. | 91 a jasmine/litchi charm and is wholly typical. seemed a bit past it. The medium-sweet JR | Deep golden straw. Pungent, interesting JR | Pale straw. Very cool, low-key nose. Gathered, gingery, zesty, deep, rich, and luscious, wines are difficult to place, but bitterness nose. Very full-bodied in litchi mode. Lots of Sweetness dominates the front palate, but there on the palate this wine is a concentrated tour de is no longer a flaw! fun. Absolutely ready to drink. Great balance is perceptible varietal character of a litchi variety. force of aromatic succulence. Great harmony and pungent length. Nothing to reproach except Neat and refreshing, though embryonic. Fades a and completeness, too. Estimable and rewarding, little on the finish. Drink 2017–21. | 87 and great classicism, too, all in all. | 92 TOP WINES CM | Not a great deal showing at present, except a whiff of alcohol. It’s young and unformed as Cave de Turckheim Gewurztraminer Brand Grand yet, with good acidity and a creamy note to the Cru 2013 93 PALE, YELLOW-GOLD texture. But it’s really closed, not showing much, Meyer-Fonné Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf Grand COLOR. RICH, CREAMY, even on the finish. And the end is a shade hot. Cru 2015 93 OPULENT, AND Not my favorite here, though not bad. | 83 Meyer-Fonné Gewurztraminer Sporen Grand Cru JR | Edgy, high-toned nose, with masses of Vieilles Vignes 2015 93 EVOLVED AROMAS. sweetness (low acid?) and some floral notes. Very intense and showy. Like a bouquet of Blanck Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru VERY APPEALING, Vieilles Vignes 2012 92 Pierre Sparr Gewurztraminer carnations in its showiness. Precocious. Drink Mambourg Grand Cru 2015 89 2017–20. | 88 Albert Boxler Gewurztraminer Brand Grand Cru WITH LEMON, HONEY, (12.5% ABV; 34.53g/l RS) 2015 92 Trimbach Cuvée des Seigneurs TOAST, CREAM, AND Joseph Cattin Dopff Au Moulin Gewurztraminer Sporen de AJ | Pale to full silver-gold. It’s both spicy and de Ribeaupierre 2012 89 Gewurztraminer Hatschbourg Riquewihr Grand Cru 2015 92 SPICE. IT’S SWEET BUT floral, yet there is a lovely fleshy fattiness here (14.5% ABV; 25g/l RS) Grand Cru 2015 88 Kuentz-Bas Gewurztraminer Pfersigberg Grand that draws you ineluctably in. An attractive BALANCED BY GOOD (13% ABV; 30.18g/l RS) Cru Trois Châteaux Grand Cru 2012 92 aromatic profile, though no notable fruit and not AJ | Full pale gold. Excitingly warm, sensual, ACIDITY. THIS IS Domaine Albert Mann Gewurztraminer much complexity yet. Almost a roastiness here. gingery scents over lovely orange and tangerine AJ | Clear mid-gold. A soft focus sweet- Steingrubler Grand Cru 2013 92 In the mouth, it’s vivid, rich, full, and generous, fruit; a little botrytis complexity, too. There’s LOVELY, AROMATIC, spiciness, which is typical and attractive, though Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer with lots of almost primary fruit dressed jasmine richness as well: very complete and AND CREAMY, WITH Blanck Gewurztraminer 2016 88 as you sniff it’s not a showstopper. The thing Hengst Grand Cru 2013 92 gratifyingly in spicy honey. Very generous and gratifying aromas. Lush, sweet, vivid, generous, (13% ABV; 15.59g/l) itself, nonetheless. Juicy, fresh, lively, with an Domaine Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Clos hugely enjoyable; the spices carry and lift what and rather tangy on the palate, made in a much LOVELY ACIDITY AND acid balance (which few of its peers at this stage Windsbuhl 2010 92 might almost otherwise be simple if exuberant less reductive style than its peers at this “drier” DELIGHTFUL LENGTH AJ | Steel white. Very attractively fresh, cleanly of the tasting have), but a slightly simpler style as fruits. | 91 end of the tasting. What you gain on the nose spicy scents: invigorating and enticing. Lots of well. Straightforward, exuberant, enjoyable, and

but not much else. This is lemony and tight, JR | Doesn’t seem to be showing its age on Kuentz-Bas Gewurztraminer much cleaner and positively opulent. Very bit withdrawn and restrained in aromatic SAVOR: ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER LOTS OF PLANTY with a distinct honey character, almost with the basis of its deep straw color, but it’s a bit Trois Châteaux Vin d’Alsace 87 charming with a burned edge and great balance. terms against the best of its peers. Generous EXCITEMENT HERE, concentration of propolis, or “bee glue.” The fossilized rather than evolved on the nose. Lots 2014 (13% ABV; 16.9g/l RS) Pungent, and handles its residual sugar well. sweetness on the palate, but touches of caramel palate is lean and lemony, suggesting this has of sweetness. Easy and round but not that fresh. Very definitely Gewurz. Rather well balanced and and custard rather than stone, fruit, spice, and THOUGH IT IS MUCH quite a way to go. But it’s not the right moment Lots of beeswax. Why wasn’t this sold long ago, AJ | Soft, pale gold. Honeyed spices and gingery appetizing despite the high residual sugar. Long perfume. | 86 LESS EXOTICALLY to drink this yet. I’d wait two or three years and I wonder. Quite long. Drink 2013–20. | 85 depths here, together with the late autumn, and savory. Quite intense. Long undertow. Drink CM | Golden, creamy, and mature, this has hope for a less angular wine. | 89 moistly sticky presence that true late-harvest 2016–22. | 90 ripe, opulent aromas of barley sugar and candy. SWEET IN SCENT THAN JR | Deep bright straw. Light, rather simple wines have (though this is only 17g/l). On the There’s an evolved toastiness as well, and a MOST. FULL, LIVELY nose. Quite evolved and then green and leafy on palate, it seems to run on its sugar a little, and luscious, opulent texture. The wine is buoyed the palate. A bit loose and smudgy on the end. turn a little flabby in comparison with the very up by lively acidity, so the sugar goes almost (PLENTY OF ACIDITY Doesn’t quite hang together yet. A bit glucose best. Not much marrow here, though it makes unnoticed. The finish is toasty and creamy. A FOR A GEWURZ HERE), and simple. Drink 2018–21. | 88 pleasant sipping. | 84 lovely wine to enjoy soon. | 91 CM | A noticeably gold note to the color here. JR | Bright gold. Heavy, rather sweaty nose. AND VIVID It’s opulent, with a rather exotic bouquet. It Very sweet and round. Lacks freshness. Rather does have this slightly oxidative character, with reminds me of the Austrian Gewurzes of yore. bright acidity, good, reined-in, rose-petal and Distinctly syrupy. Not refreshing. Falls apart. classical, but not necessarily ambitious. | 88 litchi flavors. The finish is soft and seductive, Drink 2014–16. | 85 CM | A youngster, but with some appealing but still enlivened by good acidity. More evolved aromas already apparent. Fresh, litchi and a hint than I would have expected, but exotically of lemon. The palate is nicely balanced, with appealing. | 90 good acidity and even a touch of phenols to add Domaine Bott-Geyl JR | Bright gold. Hint of wet wool on the nose. an interesting twist. Good now, but will improve Gewurztraminer Clos des 3 Satin smooth texture and some green streak with some years in a cellar. | 89 Chemins Vieilles Vignes 2013 87 keeps this from falling over. A hint of the glucose JR | Pale gold. Light and fresh. A green streak but (12.5% ABV; 53g/l; 50cl) drink Lucozade. Not the finest, but there is not much intensity of fruity core. A bit simple interest here. Drink 2016–20. | 87 but not an unpleasant drink—albeit without AJ | Mid-gold, bright. Sweet, warm, honeyed, Domaine Muré that much Gewurz character. Good freshness. and enticing: there are some gentle truffley Domaine Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Zinnkoepflé May develop into something more interesting. complexities if you hunt them down. Excellent Gewurztraminer Furstentum Grand Cru 2013 87 Residual sugar exceptionally well covered by if undemonstrative aromas, but with time in the Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2013 87 (11.5% ABV; 103g/l RS) pronounced acidity. Drink 2016–19. | 88 glass it may grow more articulate. Deep and (13.5% ABV; 33g/l RS) Domaine Weinbach lively wine, with way more acidity than is the AJ | Mid-gold. Tangy, lush, and full: lots Josmeyer Gewurztraminer Gewurztraminer Furstentum norm for this tasting, so a “classic” dessert wine AJ | Bright mid-gold. Bottle 1: Oxidized. Bottle of honeycomb richness here, with just a Hengst Grand Cru 2011 88 Grand Cru 2008 88 balance. The drawback is that it isn’t anywhere 2: Light, fresh, pristine, and graceful, and little pear and rose, but not hugely varietal. (14.5% ABV; 20g/l RS) (13% ABV; 49.5g/l RS) near the exotic, mood-altering, mind-changing, much better than the slightly defective first Pretty nonetheless, and generous. Big, full, horizon-shifting ideal of Gewurz in Alsace, which bottle. Nonetheless, it is not a wine of huge generous, but not at all dense, fine-drawn, AJ | Full light gold. A becoming barley-sugar AJ | Pale and youthful in appearance for its is necessarily baroque. | 84 aromatic complexity. Rich, soft, vivid, spicy, and fine-grained, or subtle. A simple adventure sweetness qualified and supported by classy vintage. Classically sweet, late-harvest scents CM | Golden color. Rich, creamy, opulent aromas, generous, with some discreet acidity to back up in sugar. | 85 ginger spice and soft peachy fruit. Down-the- rather than a vin de terroir approach. In truth, not with toasty maturity. There’s good acidity, as the alcoholic warmth and perfumed fullness as CM | Golden color. Honeyed, rich aromas, with line, attractive, gentle Gewurztraminer, with a lot of Gewurz specificities: some gingery grain, well, and this supports the inherent richness of a factor of balance. Deftly done. | 91 a hint of marzipan and a touch of oxidation. This lots to like, well balanced by its spice and riding but it’s the late harvest one smells. Generous, the wine. It is already very drinkable, with flavors CM | A slightly reductive, thiol note to this. The is dominated by the sweetness, which is very Domaine Schoffit on a wave of qualified and supported warmth sweet, and bright on the palate: a sugar-fest, but of litchi, honey, and apple, and will probably palate opens up more, and shows litchi, and high. It’s hard to see how this will develop. It’s Gewurztraminer Rangen Clos to finish.| 88 it lacks aromatic complexity. | 84 develop further, as the creamily aromatic length barley-sugar flavors, good acidity, and some all about honey and sweetness at the moment. Saint-Theobald Grand Cru 2013 87 CM | This isn’t showing much on the nose at CM | Pale gold color. Toasty, mature aromas, suggests. | 91 intensity. But there’s a niggling note of something This is almost too sweet for me, because the (12.5% ABV; 48g/l RS) present. Perhaps it never will. There’s a little with notes of marzipan, lemon zest, and barley- JR | Very deep copper color. Swingeing acidity on (might it be rot?) that persists to the finish. Not other components are overwhelmed. There is alcohol grinning through. The palate is pleasant, sugar. There’s a hint of propolis (“bee glue”) to a big, bold sweet platform—not very integrated. my favorite wine. | 81 creamy, honeyed length, though. | 87 AJ | Filling out into a luscious gold. Buttered with candied barley-sugar character, decent this, mingled with the toasty, lemon-zest flavors, Sour. Drink 2015–18. | 85 JR | Deep gold. First bottle dirty. Second bottle JR | Deep apricot color. Smoky and not much popcorn: generous and exuberant but acidity, and some litchi length. Pleasant, if not and sprightly acidity. This seems a wine at peak focus. Lots of round sweetness, but not unpolished and doesn’t plumb the recesses great. | 87 maturity, but lean and toned, ready to carry on freshness. Drink 2015–18. | 89 of varietal potential. Some spiced pear. JR | Mid coppery color. In the savory spectrum for some time yet. Just shows what high acidity Bottle 2: Even deeper in color, and with of Gewurz on the nose, and then masses of and balanced sugar can do to help a wine age. GOLDEN, CREAMY, the same overall (attractive but unsubtle) sweetness on the front palate, but it all tightens The finish is marzipan and beehives, and the blowsiness of scent. On the palate it is simple up to a pretty tense, arresting wine by the finish. length is considerable. | 96 AND MATURE, THIS stuff: moderate concentration and certainly Throbs. Real bite. There’s some tension here. HAS RIPE, OPULENT at the end of its aging trajectory, though a Drink 2014–20. | 90 fun drink. | 80 AROMAS OF BARLEY CM | Beautiful, golden color. Opulent, exotic, Domaine Albert Mann GOLDEN COLOR. RICH, SUGAR AND CANDY. and unctuous aromas, of litchis and cream. The Gewurztraminer Furstentum CREAMY, OPULENT palate is complex and delicious, and probably Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2014 88 THERE’S AN EVOLVED nearing its best. Acidity fully supports the (13% ABV; 37g/l RS) AROMAS, WITH TOASTY TOASTINESS AS WELL, sweetness, and suggests it could carry this MATURITY. THERE’S further. But it’s lovely now, with rich, opulent AJ | Pale, bright gold. An earthy, soil-rich reading AND A LUSCIOUS, flavors, buoyed up by this tremendous acidity. of the variety; lots of planty excitement here, GOOD ACIDITY, AS OPULENT TEXTURE. Very tempting now, although could age though it is much less exotically sweet in scent WELL, AND THIS further. | 95 than most. Full, lively (plenty of acidity for a THE WINE IS BUOYED Domaines Schlumberger JR | Aggressively apricot color. Very big and Gewurz here), vivid, and almost fresh in style: SUPPORTS THE UP BY LIVELY ACIDITY, Gewurztraminer Kitterlé blustery. Not fine, but this makes an impact! a juicy fruity Gewurz rather than a spice-bomb INHERENT RICHNESS Grand Cru 2012 87 I asked for a second bottle to see whether it was odalisque. Agreeable, though not particularly SO THE SUGAR GOES (12.5% ABV; 45.9g/l RS) any fresher. No! If anything, even heavier. And ambitious. | 88 OF THE WINE ALMOST UNNOTICED darker. Needs more finesse, however blustering CM | Lean, tight, a touch of honey on the nose, AJ | Bright deep gold. Malty grains, but a little it is. Drink 2015–18. | 86

Léon Beyer Gewurztraminer struggling through, good acidity and sweetness fresh and is evolving well, with buttery, barley- cohort. Attractive, nonetheless, if relatively Trimbach Cuvée des Seigneurs SAVOR: ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER Comtes d’Eguisheim 2010 86 in balance. Length is good and presages well for sugar length and good freshness. | 89 superficial, without any great power, density, or de Ribeaupierre 2011 84 REFRESHING NOSE (14% ABV; 4g/l RS) the future. | 88 JR | Pale yellowish straw. Hardly any nose. The saturation for this sugar level. | 85 (14.5% ABV; 16g/l RS) WITH STRONG FADED JR | Pale straw. Low-key nose. Very soft sugar rather obtrudes. And then so does the CM | Honeyed, with glimmers of aromatics AJ | Delicate light gold. Plump, sweet scents of and juicy. I’d like more acidity or bitterness. alcohol on the end. Rather an unbalanced wine— to come, but not really here yet. The palate is AJ | Deep steel-gold. Rather a quiet and ROSE-PETAL NOTES. A dripping summer fruits; a little rose. Exuberant, Sweetness obtrudes. Drink 2017–19. | 85 too old? Drink 2012–16. | 84 sweet, quite alcoholic and with good acidity. uneventful scent, which isn’t the Gewurz ideal. TAD LOW IN ACIDITY, classically oily palate, with plenty of rose-garden The sweetness is rather overpowering at the A little torpid ginger if you hunt about. Rather perfume. Vinous, long, and structured, with a Dirler-Cadé Gewurztraminer moment. Without sufficient aromatic complexity a weighty palate, too, though you realize that BUT THE BITTERNESS little acidity and a perfectly dry style. Very good Kessler Grand Cru 2013 86 to balance the sugar, this presents as a sweet, it’s here that all the aromas were hiding: The COMPENSATES. THIS dry Gewurztraminer. | 90 (13% ABV; 50g/l RS honeyed, rather alcoholic Gewurz. It’s difficult to spices emerge through the soft and luscious CM | Pleasant aroma of litchi, not immensely see a positive future for it. | 79 summer fruit. A fair to good wine that would win SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN complex, but adequate. Palate seems sweeter AJ | Pale to mid-gold. Very exotic, very fruity JR | Bright gold. Simple green-fruit flavors. Full- a higher score with a more attractive aromatic MADE BY SOMEONE than the numbers suggest, but this does have scents: green plums left in the sunshine till they on and fragrant. Not that alcoholic. Correct. And profile. | 85 some litchi perfume and good acidity. Length dimple and ooze sugars. Some apricot, too. Quite rich and long. Drink 2017–22. | 90 CM | Not a lot of aromas showing here. The WITH A CLEAR VISION. isn’t great, but it’s an adequate Gewurz. | 82 delicious to smell, yet I wouldn’t shout out, “Ah, palate is similarly dumb. It’s pleasant wine, with COULD ONLY BE JR | Deep pinky straw. Smells too “heavy” to Gewurz!” This completely describes the palate good acidity and sweetness, though slightly release much on the (decidedly indistinct) nose. also: baked green plums, succulent and sweet. overt alcohol. Not much length. Doesn’t add up ALSACE, WITH A Round and rather soft. On the way down. Drink But with Gewurz on the label, you do hope for a to much. | 77 VIBRANT UNDERTOW 2012–17. | 86 bit more aromatic density and power. Generous JR | Deep coppery color. Refreshing nose with sugars. | 85 strong faded rose-petal notes. A tad low in CM | Yellow with a suggestion of gold. Rather Domaine Albert Mann acidity, but the bitterness compensates. This dumb on nose, with some honey and a hint of Gewurztraminer Furstentum seems to have been made by someone with a to engage with. Not wholly successful, and it lemon. The palate is more open but weighty Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2015 86 clear vision. Could only be Alsace, with a vibrant doesn’t entice. Rather similar on the palate. One and sweet, and the alcohol reinforces the sugar. (13.5% ABV; 26g/l RS) undertow. Drink 2013–20. | 91 senses there has been some sort of struggle There is acidity, but it rather fades beneath the here, and the result is a little disappointing and UVEE DES EIGNEURS DE IBEAUPIERRE weight of the sugar and alcohol. | 85 AJ | Steel green-silver. Slightly dry, cardboardy C S R coarse-grained. | 76 JR | Fresh, simple nose with floral notes (lilies?). scents. Some spiced apple fruit, but it lacks CM | Hard to read at the moment, with what There’s a bitter note on the end. Pungent and subtlety, richness, and appeal. On the palate, the seems to be a hint of reduction and thiols on the interesting, with more apparent sweetness than character is similar—that cardboardy (filter- nose, and not a lot else showing. Acidity is good, most. Just not that fresh and compelling. Drink pad?) note is unbecoming. The fruit quality isn’t and balances the sweetness, but there aren’t 2015–20. | 88 bad, though, and there is some winning sweet many of the flavors I hope to find in Gewurz. rose on the palate, too. You could certainly Neither is there great length. Maybe that’s a Dopff Au Moulin recognize it and enjoy it, but without finer Cave de Turckheim good thing. | 79 Theo Cattin et Fils Gewurztraminer aromatics it’s not really a contender today. | 83 Gewurztraminer Vieilles Vignes 85 JR | Deep bright gold. Very simple and sulfidey. Gewurztraminer Bollenberg Domaine Familial 2013 86 CM | Pretty dumb and closed on the nose. 2015 (13% ABV; 23g/l RS) Unsubtle. Unappetizing. Drink 2014–16. | 85 Cuvée Prestige 2016 86 (13.5% ABV; 14g/l RS) Young and rather tightly shuttered at present. (13% ABV; 18.9g/l RS) There’s good weight and good acidity to balance AJ | Pale steel-green. Some quiet apple fruit, a AJ | Full gold. Sweet and grassy, almost like the the sugar and an underlying intensity. But this little bit of stalk. Lively, though not as seductive Léon Beyer Gewurztraminer AJ | Green steel-gold. Fresh, grapy, floral— Mosel amplified. Exuberant but perhaps lacks needs five years or so to reach a more drinkable as most, perhaps. Apples, apricots, tangerines, Comtes d’Eguisheim Pfersigberg 83 another of those Gewurztraminers that smell a aromatic finesse and typicity. Juicy and soft, full moment. | 89 in sweet style and dressed with spice and Grand Cru 2011 little bit like the Mosel on steroids. But it does of lush orchard fruit and grassy freshness. Not JR | Mid-straw. Indistinct syrupy nose. nougatine richness. Actually very good in the (14% ABV; 4g/l RS) draw you in and make you want to sip. Fresh, much spice or backbone, and no sign of litchi or Sweetness rather dominates everything, though mouth—and better than the aromatic profile sweet, and attractive in a soft, grassy-floral rose, but pleasant drinking. | 84 there is some freshness on the end. Lightly bitter. suggested. | 88 AJ | Pale steel-gold. Clean, soft litchi fruits but kind of way on the palate, too, with just enough CM | A good whiff of rose petal to the bouquet Just not quite enough distinctive flavor—more CM | Pleasant floral aromas, mainly rose. Light little evident spice. A touch dusty. Dry and rather concentration to carry its sugars. | 85 of this, with a hint of barley-sugar sweetness. sugar+acid+bitterness. Drink 2017–21. | 87 and refreshing, with a darker undertone of toast sinewy palate, though long, with a little baked- CM | Youth dumbs this down at present, with There’s lovely balance to the palate, with good and highish acidity. There’s almost a burned hint apple fruit on the palate. Touch bitter on the few aromas showing. The palate is weighty but weight of flavor, lively acidity, aromatically floral to this that slightly jars. It’s light, with no great finish. Fair at best, though drinkable. | 83 needs time to develop. There seem to be good notes, and sweetness well balanced. The length length, and not going very far. | 79 CM | Hint of barley sugar on the nose, otherwise elements in place, with litchi flavor eventually is a little fragile and tends more to barley sugar JR | Smoky/wet woolly nose. Sulfides in rather bland with a whiff of aggressive alcohol. than rose petals. | 87 ascendant? Low acid and a little sickly. A powder The dryness doesn’t really help this. It might JR | Deep straw. Richly burned toast aroma. This puff of a wine—insubstantial and talcy. Drink have been more appealing with a few more seems relatively evolved and to have rather low 2016–18. | 87 grams of sugar! Acidity balances the alcohol YOUNG AND RATHER acidity, though it certainly isn’t too sweet. Lacks adequately, but there’s little real perfume, and TIGHTLY SHUTTERED much definition. Drink 2014–18. | 86 a slightly hot finish. | 78 Dirler-Cadé Gewurztraminer JR | Mid-straw. Mid intensity of rose petal Spiegel Grand Cru 2015 77 AT PRESENT. THERE’S Hugel Gewurztraminer PALE STEEL-GREEN. aroma. Slightly oily palate entry. Very savory ((13.5% ABV; 48g/l RS) GOOD WEIGHT AND Grossi Laüe 2010 86 SOME QUIET APPLE finish and medium body. A distinctive style with (14% ABV; 16.3g/l RS) some bite and freshness. Quite long. Confidently AJ | Full mid-gold. Bottle 1: Very strange, raw GOOD ACIDITY TO FRUIT, A LITTLE BIT different. Well made, but it rather fell apart in the aromas, entirely unseductive and untypical. BALANCE THE SUGAR AJ | Pale steel-gold. There’s a sense of aromatic OF STALK. LIVELY, glass. Drink 2013–20. | 87 Bottle 2: Not notably different. Still raw and richness here, almost a butteriness, combined rather bean-like. Atypical. All the oddity is there AND AN UNDERLYING with gentle, low-focus floral notes. Soft, sweet, THOUGH NOT AS Domaine Albert Mann on the palate, too: not a success. | 74 quietly attractive: buttered pain d’epices. Not Gewurztraminer Steingrubler CM | Really unappealing rot character. This is not INTENSITY. BUT THIS SEDUCTIVE AS 80 notably concentrated, yet very easy and supple Bott Frères Gewurztraminer Grand Cru 2014 good wine and will never be anything other than NEEDS FIVE YEARS OR to drink. | 86 Réserve Personnelle 2016 85 MOST, PERHAPS. (13% ABV; 28g/l RS tainted by rot. | 70 SO TO REACH A MORE CM | Dark, exotic aromas, with rose petal, toast, (12.5% ABV; 47.29g/l RS) ACTUALLY VERY JR | Pale straw. Sticky nose. Just sweet and and Turkish delight predominant. The palate has AJ | Quite a pale steel-gold. Slightly odd scents, simple. Raw finish. Clumsy. And indeed a bit DRINKABLE MOMENT a lovely balance of sweetness and acidity, and AJ | Pale to mid-gold. Sweet, malty, reedy, planty: GOOD IN THE MOUTH though—some vitamin B meatiness and sickly. Second bottle equally heavy, if not more some development of flavor. This is lively and graceful and restrained aromas for the 45+ g/l grubbiness, and nothing lovely or lifted or sweet so. Very sweet. Drink 2017–20. | 86

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