All About The Wines 2 3 Jura Wine
Grape Varieties
Jura may have only five ‘official’ grapes part of a blend. A few still exist in tiny accepted into the AOC regulations first quantities (see final section). Note that established in 1936, but these five are pre-phylloxera only about 10–15% of the very important in the history of grape grapes grown were white, for the simple varieties. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir reason that red wine was the popular are of course best known in Burgundy, colour of the day, considered the standard but have been grown in Jura for several drink with meals. centuries. The other three varieties, Savagnin, Poulsard and Trousseau, In this chapter we explore the history and can now be described definitively as growing characteristics of these grapes in indigenous to the Jura wine region, Jura specifically. The choice of clone and indeed close to the primitive ancestors rootstock is examined in more detail in of Vitis vinifera, the wild varieties known the chapter on growing vines. The taste of as Vitis sylvestris. Before the arrival of the wines they produce is examined in the phylloxera in the late 19th century there final chapter of this section on wine styles were many more grape varieties grown and how the wines are made. in Jura in mixed vineyards, used as
Previous page: Sunset with west and southwest facing vines at Château-Chalon and Ménétru-le-Vignoble Left: Ripe Chardonnay grapes
4 5 Jura Wine Grape Varieties
White Varieties As a relatively early ripener, Chardon- a reduction in quantity. Despite this, today nay may be prone to late spring frost, and Chardonnay appears, as everywhere, to be Chardonnay with thinner skins than the hardy Savagnin one of the most reliable varieties. Much is it is potentially more affected by oidium harvested early for Crémant; for still wines and subsequent grey rot. In poor weather it tends to be harvested after Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay is the most planted variety in particularly Pineau Blanc, Melon or Melon Jura. In 2013 it covered 41% of the vineyard d’Arbois in villages around Arbois and Dole flowering can also be a problem, leading to often around the same time as Poulsard. area, almost double that of Savagnin, though in the north of today’s Jura region, Gamay the percentage has been even higher, with Blanc around Lons-le-Saunier, L’Etoile as much as half of the Jura vineyards being and the south, and Luisant in the Besançon Melon à Queue Rouge planted to Chardonnay in the mid-1990s. area in Haute-Saône. It is as Luisant that Confirmed as a natural variation of To date I know of at least six producers with Its importance should hardly be a surprise, the first known mention is made, with texts Chardonnay in Jura, the Melon à Queue Melon à Queue Rouge in their vineyards given the region’s proximity to Burgundy from the 14th century in the abbey of Gy Rouge (Melon with a red stalk) usually and the importance, quantity-wise, of referring to the introduction of Luisant. – Puffeney, Bacchus, La Pinte, Bornard, From here to being grown in Jura would develops its distinctive red stalk close to Crémant du Jura, in which it plays such a Credoz and Ganevat – but there are many not have taken long. Perhaps to protect ripening, although it can appear as early significant part. However, I estimate (figures other vignerons with old vines where Savagnin, already recognized as special and as just after flowering. Sometimes there are not available) that, given that yields are Melon will be interspersed. When made valuable, Chardonnay in its various guises may even be some faint redness showing higher for grapes for Crémant than for still on its own, nearly always from an old vine was considered an inferior grape, and on on the surface of the grape skin, giving wine, about half is used for sparkling and selection, Melon à Queue Rouge shows a several occasions risked being outlawed rise to an old expression ‘Les renards ont half for still white wines and Macvin. until 1774, when it was finally recognized pissé dessus’ or ‘The foxes pissed on it.’ particular riper, softer and most attractive In old texts on Jura a string of white for its quality. From then it went from As an alternative to the ubiquitous clones yellow fruit characteristic compared to the grape varieties appears, a few of which, with strength to strength, especially for its use in of Chardonnay, it is becoming increasingly straight Chardonnays, though sometimes advancing understanding of ampelographi- sparkling wines, and in terms of geography prized and massal selection techniques this can also be attributed to the low yields cal methods, turned out to be variations of most particularly prized in the vineyards are being used to perpetuate its existence. it produces. Chardonnay. This plethora of synonyms, around L’Etoile. often with names that led them to be con- Chardonnay in Jura is grown on many fused with other varieties, includes most different soil types, something recognized increasingly by those producers who choose to bottle cuvées from different terroirs. It Savagnin seems to suit almost all the variations of The rest of the wine world may have long Traminer, but many conjectured that it came clay-limestone marls, although it is perhaps fretted over whether Savagnin is related to from Austria or northern Italy. It seems that weakest on grey marl – in any case this soil Traminer and which came first, or whether Jura’s supreme confidence has been vindi- type is generally reserved for Savagnin or their particular grape variety, known under cated. Yes, DNA testing has confirmed that Poulsard. Especially valued for fine, almost a different name, was in fact the same as Savagnin is actually the same as Traminer Burgundy-style Chardonnays are warmer hillside vineyards of marl covered in Bajo- Traminer or Savagnin. But, meantime, (the better-known Gewürztraminer is an cian limestone-rich pebbles or scree. The in much of the local Jura wine literature aromatic version) and yes, it originated in heavier clay-rich Liassic marls, which are dating back at least 150 years one can see Jura. Indeed in 2012 it was dubbed by the so distinctively Jura, are also excellent for the Jurassiens as quietly confident that Sav- authors of Wine Grapes as part of an exclu- Chardonnay, and these soils seem to confer agnin was not only theirs by right, derived sive group of ‘founder varieties’ and thus the flavours that make many tasters comment from a wild vine, but they also valued it as a parent, grandparent or ancestor of a whole The village of L’Etoile, on an oxidative character even when a wine very fine wine grape. Early grape scientists host of other well-known grape varieties known for Chardonnay in particular is made by Burgundian methods, i.e. regu- did indeed believe that it was at the very grown throughout Europe, not least Jura’s larly topped up. least related or perhaps even the same as Trousseau. 6 7 Jura Wine Grape Varieties
This variety loves the steep south-facing tiple texts erroneously describe the grape wine world is more secure in understanding slopes of clay-rich marl soils, especially Savagnin giving wines that are distinctively this variety’s origins and the fact that it is if they are deep and grey in colour. Being nutty and spicy, classic descriptors for Sav- the same as Traminer (the non-aromatic thick-skinned, it suffers rarely from mildew, agnin wines that have aged under the veil form of course), and now that Jura has a and grey rot is only an occasional problem, of yeast destined to make Vin Jaune. Yet growing following, we are sure to see more with an often beneficial level of noble rot. It anyone who has had the chance to taste planted around the world. Already there can suffer from coulure if the weather is bad a Savagnin berry, or juice from the press, are Savagnins from Australia (from vines around flowering. Sadly, like Trousseau, it or better still drunk Jura’s ouillé Savagnin previously wrongly identified as Albariño) is proving to be badly affected by Esca and wines, knows differently – tangy citrus fla- and from Canada’s Niagara Peninsula (see other fungal diseases affecting the wood. vours dominate. This is a grape with a strong Appendix x). I believe there will be many There are several natural variations personality and I predict that now that the more in future. The distinctive crumbly grey marl that the Savagnin of Savagnin, most particularly Savagnin vine likes Vert (green) and Savagnin Jaune (yellow), although the latter is more prevalent (see Naturé – an ancient name photo). The yellow version gives more aro- In Jura the story of Savagnin, or Naturé matic flavours; the green variety is particu- You will see Naturé on some labels, aged like a Vin Jaune but for a shorter as it sometimes called, is inextricably linked larly prized for its high acidity, an advan- particularly of Arbois wines, and since the time. Naturé or sometimes Naturel are old with the story of Vin Jaune and earliest tage for the long ageing of Vin Jaune, but late 1990s, although not an official term, names for Savagnin, and can be found in mentions of it date back to the 14th or pos- also giving crispness to ouillé (topped-up) several producers have used Naturé to many old texts referring to Arbois; even sibly the 13th century. Because its origins indicate a Savagnin Ouillé, differentiating it 19th- and early-20th-century English texts were not really understood, at some point it versions. Many producers like to work with from the more prevalent oxidative Savagnin, refer to it as Naturé. was thought to have come from Spain due a mix, especially for Vin Jaune. Savagnin to the fact that, like Sherry, it attracted a Muscaté is a rare variation that exists in tiny flor-type yeast on the surface of the wine quantities in the Sud Revermont, giving (and also that Franche-Comté was at one aromatic flavours somewhat reminiscent Red Varieties time ruled by the King of Spain). It was of Gewürztraminer (an aromatic mutation always known as a strong, resistant variety of Savagnin Rose), but the berry indicates Poulsard/Ploussard that ripened very late, sometimes not that it is a sort of white-skinned Gewürz- traminer. Apparently the Muscaté version until the first snows or frosts of winter. Even if there is confusion over its name (see The village of Pupillin considers itself the was selected and replicated post-phylloxera The ancients knew that in good years with ‘The sloe versus the Breton’), Poulsard seems capital of Ploussard by Jean Labet of Rotalier, the grandfather sufficient crop they could make what was to be the indigenous Jura variety over which of Alain Labet, who ran a vine nursery. sometimes named a Vin de Gelée (picked there is least confusion of place of origin, Although flavours are beyond the scope after the first frosts) or a Vin de Garde even though its parentage is not entirely of this chapter, it should be said that mul- (a wine to age), as Vin Jaune used to be clear. The latest ampelographical research named. Due to its thick skins (enabling it shows that it has a likely parent–offspring Ripe Savagnin grapes to withstand late picking), naturally high relationship with the Valais grape Rèze, acidity and fascinating flavours, Savagnin once grown as Petit Béclan Blanc in Jura. is an extremely versatile and high-quality Although much revered within the region grape increasingly used today for a whole and in evidence since the 14th century, until range of wine styles beyond the traditional the 21st century there was never a whiff of Vin Jaune. fashion related to this variety, and never any Around 22% of the Jura wine region is interest on the part of other wine regions to planted with Savagnin and if ever there was lay claim to it. The only other established a perfect marriage between grape variety and vineyard area for Poulsard is Cerdon, in the soil or geology, Jura has it with Savagnin. northern section of the Bugey region, just 8 9