MONTAIGNE OSCAR IN MANSE ARKANSAS OSCAR DE LA RENTA IS OPENS HEADING TO LITTLE ROCK PARIS FLAGSHIP ON MONDAY FOR THE OPENING AVENUE MONTAIGNE. OF A RETROSPECTIVE AT PAGE 3 THE WILLIAM J. CLINTON PRESIDENTIAL CENTER. PAGE 2

FALL 2013 PARIS COUTURE

WWDWEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 BELLETTINI JOINS BRAND New CEO Named at YSL, Slimane Expands Role

manding controls of a major fashion By MILES SOCHA label, from photographing the cam- paigns to vetting the press discount PARIS — The house of Yves Saint list — is to now also “supervise all Laurent is rocking — and not strategic projects for the brand.” only because of designer Hedi Kering said Deneve is leaving to Slimane’s penchant for grunge take up a “new opportunity in the and Teddy Boys. high-tech industry” and mentioned In a management shake-up Silicon Valley, suggesting a move that caught many by surprise in to Northern California, home to the midst of couture week here, Apple, Facebook and Google. YSL parent Kering said Tuesday Reached by WWD, Deneve de- that chief executive offi cer Paul clined to comment on his next Deneve, who recruited Slimane move, characterizing his exit from and implemented a daring reju- YSL as “bittersweet,” even if the venation drive, would leave the company registered strong growth French fashion house after two — almost doubling revenues — years. He is to be succeeded effec- during his brief tenure. tive Sept. 1 by Francesca Bellettini, “It was an amazing adventure an executive director from Kering- and I’m very confi dent in the fu- owned Bottega Veneta known for ture of this brand,” he said. her merchandising prowess. An affable, pensive executive What’s more, Slimane — who al- of Belgian descent, Deneve came ready boasts one of the most com- SEE PAGE 9 L.A.’s Manufacturing Challenge eral participants with manu- By MARCY MEDINA facturing assets in Southern California, including Marty LOS ANGELES area manufactur- Bailey, chief manufacturing of- ers are going to need regulatory re- ficer of American Apparel Inc., lief — and a more global perspec- and Deborah Greaves, secre- tive — if they are to take advantage tary and general counsel of True of the growing opportunities to bol- Religion Apparel Inc. They were ster local apparel manufacturing. joined by Ilse Metchek, presi- This was among the messages dent of the California Fashion delivered at a panel discussion on Association; Tracy Gray, senior ad- “The Future of U.S. Manufacturing viser to former L.A. mayor Antonio and Opportunities in Los Angeles” Villaraigosa; Carlos Valderama, moderated by American Apparel & senior vice president of global Footwear Association chief execu- initiatives for the L.A. Chamber tive offi cer Kevin Burke at the L.A. of Commerce, and André Raghu, Chamber of Commerce last week. chief strategy officer of Tradegood. The panel included sev- SEE PAGE 8 Master Builder The elaborate set — an ancient, crumbling theater with disintegrating stage curtains that opened to a dazzling 21st-century city scene — was just one of the masterful details at ’s fall couture show. worked sleek lines in intense embroideries and an ample dose of shine with a multitiered message: lean, embroidered tweed jackets over layered skirts and stocking shoes, with wide, jeweled belts to highlight the hips. For more on couture, see pages 4 to 7.

PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013

Michèle Huiban Named Lanvin CEO the Briefing Box and worked mainly in the media before joining By alex WyNNe lanvin, the company said tuesday. in Today’s WWd she was not available for comment. PaRis — lanvin has named michèle Huiban its lat- andretta is credited with having spearheaded est chief executive officer. the company’s global retail expansion. sales for Backstage at the Armani Privé couture show. Huiban had taken over the operational man- the fashion house nearly doubled during his tenure For more, see WWD.com. agement of the group in april, after the depar- there, to an estimated 240 million euros, or $308.5 ture of managing director thierry andretta, as million at average exchange, in 2012. reported. according to sources, andretta and shaw- Huiban, who joined lanvin in 2008, had been lan Wang, the taiwanese media magnate who is deputy general manager of the company since 2011. lanvin’s majority owner, had disagreed over strat- she is a graduate of French business school esseC egy at the fast-growing company. D r Former Tiffany Exec Arrested for Theft A roughly $1.5 million M hine Ach By alexaNDRa steigRaD worth of jewelry that P n.co Del A she had checked out NeW yoRK — a former tiffany & Co. executive would have to be written

was arrested tuesday for stealing $1.3 million of off, court papers said. Photo by jewelry from the New york-based company, and but tiffany claimed trickMcMull now faces up to 30 years in prison. A that none of that inven- n/P

Federal agents arrested ingrid lederhaas-okun, A tory was ever returned, 46, at her Darien, Conn., home, after tiffany ac- “contrary to the usual Yves Saint Laurent parent Kering said Tuesday that chief cused its former employee of “checking out” and practice,” such as in the executive officer Paul Deneve would leave the French fashion selling more than 165 pieces of jewelry with a re- case of damaged jewelry, house after two years. Page 1

trick McMull tail value of more than $1.2 million from November A which would have had to 2012 to February of this year. the former vice pres- P be written off because it Los Angeles area manufacturers are hoping for regulatory ident of product development pilfered “numerous Ingrid Lederhaas-Okun had been “rendered un- relief in their efforts to build on increased opportunities to boost hoto by

diamond bracelets, platinum or gold diamond drop P usable in some way.” local manufacturing. Page 1 and hoop earrings, platinum diamond rings and in order to cover her platinum and diamond pendants,” according to tracks, the former vice president allegedly said she Fendi on Thursday will open a 6,500-square-foot, two-level manhattan U.s. attorney Preet bharara. she was had only recently checked out the missing baubles Paris flagship at 51 Avenue Montaigne. Page 3 fired by tiffany in February “as part of an overall in anticipation of “creating a PowerPoint presen- downsizing,” court papers said. tation for her supervisor,” but that presentation The front row of Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel couture show was Filed in New york federal court, the lawsuit could not be found. fittingly churning with thespians, including Kristen Stewart, Rose alleges that lederhaas-okun sold “some if not she also claimed the jewelry could be found in an Byrne, Michael Pitt and Vanessa Paradis. Page 7 all” of the jewelry for $1.3 million to a midtown envelope in her office, but that, too, was never found. manhattan-based company that buys and resells lederhaas-okun has been charged with one Olah Inc. has formed a marketing and product development jewelry. that reseller paid for the merchandise count of wire fraud, which carries a maximum pen- by paying either lederhaas-okun’s husband or a alty of 20 years in jail, and one count of interstate relationship with Prosperity Textiles, a Chinese firm with a friend working on her behalf. transportation of stolen property, which carries a monthly capacity of about 5 million yards of denim. Page 8 bharara pointed to more than 75 checks written maximum penalty of 10 years in prison. bail was by the reseller, which ranged in value from $7,525 set at $250,000 to be signed by two financially re- A clutch of boutique openings in Europe and Asia should push to $47,400, and totaled $1.3 million. sponsible cosigners and secured by $25,000 in cash Acne Studios past the revenue threshold of 100 million euros, Following tiffany’s November 2012 statement or property as well as the surrender of all travel or $130 million, this year. Page 8 that it was going to conduct an inventory review, documents and no new applications. lederhaas- lederhaas-okun, who had worked at the firm since okun was released on tuesday, with all conditions Urban Outfitters Inc. will build its largest store in the world in 1991 according to her linkedin profile, reported to be met by July 9. Manhattan to unveil a new “lifestyle center” concept. Page 9

Ambassador Claudio Bisogniero and his wife, Laura Denise, are celebrating Italian culture in America this year. Page 10

Clinton Center Showcases Oscar Julianne Moore is the face of the Reed Krakoff fall campaign, which the designer himself photographed on location at the ago, de la Renta would like to see her return to the By RosemaRy FeitelbeRg Cultural Services of the French Embassy in New York. Page 10 oval office as president. “i do hope that Hillary will be our next president. they are really extraor- Belk Inc. is seeking national exposure by sponsoring the 12th NeW yoRK — Friendly as he has been with bill and dinary people,” he said tuesday. season of “Project Runway.” Page 11 Hillary Rodham Clinton over the years, oscar de For the event, Rodham Clinton will no doubt la Renta will be making his first trip to little Rock, wear something designed by de la Renta, but she ark., monday for what should be an eventful night. did not make any special requests. “i don’t even L Capital has acquired a 53 percent majority stake in two private planes are lined up to fly in the de- know what she is wearing. it will probably be a CellularLine, an Italian company that designs and distributes signer with his family and friends to the William J. white jacket of mine and black pants. that’s her accessories mobile devices. Page 11 Clinton Presidential Center uniform now,” he said. for the opening night party the Clintons will be of the retrospective ex- joined at monday’s party on WWD.CoM hibit “oscar de la Renta: by their daughter Chelsea. american icon.” the exhi- barbara Walters and anna RUNWAY: See the latest images from couture week bition will detail his life, Wintour will also be among in Paris, including Armani Privé, Chanel and Alexandre career and impact on the the well-wishers. the afore- Vauthier at WWD.com. fashion world with 30 of his mentioned are also fea- designs as well as photo- tured in a video, which de la graphs and video interviews. Renta has heard about but To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is From his boyhood days in has yet to see. the fashion- [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. the Dominican Republic to focused exhibition is a first COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. his years spent working in for the Clinton library. VOLUME 206, NO. 3. WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two spain, Paris and eventually Jennifer Park and molly additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance the U.s., visitors will get a sorkin, who helped de la Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, play-by-play look at how de Renta with exhibits at the Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, la Renta’s career has evolved spanish institute, worked and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver over more than five decades. A view of Oscar de la Renta's retrospective closely with the designer Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North Former secretary of at the William J. Clinton Presidential Center. to curate the “american Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. state Rodham Clinton (who icon” show and to oversee Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or honored de la Renta at last its installation. Having sent inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine month’s Council of Fashion Designers of america pieces from his archives dating “all the way back is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. awards) had the idea for his arkansas retrospec- to the sixties,” de la Renta was reluctant to single You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt tive some time ago. “i was very honored. originally, out any favorites. “all of them [are] especially the of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request i thought the library had some of the other clothes ones that people don’t like because i feel sorry for for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at that i had done for mrs. Clinton. i was told, ‘No, this them,” he said. www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that is not at all about mrs. Clinton. it’s about you.’” the little Rock show will be on view through we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at their mutual admiration is a long time run- Dec. 1. in light of his recent CFDa award and a P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ning. in a 1998 Vogue cover story, Rodham Clinton rousing Q&a at 92y, the Clinton library exhibition ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER praised de la Renta as “the ultimate statesman of has helped make this year a memorable one. and UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR american fashion” and “a true american original.” de la Renta is ready for more fun. “Hopefully, every DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A although her husband left office more than 12 years year is going to be like this,” he said. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

w03a002a;9.indd 1 7/2/13 7:49 PM 07022013195020 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013 3 WWD.COM Fendi Paris Flagship a Lesson in Luxury a grand staircase coils around a monumental, fun- By Miles socha nel-shaped sculpture composed of multicolored Murano Some handbags, like the Peekaboo and Baguette, glass shards — 28,000 of them to be exact — leading up are displayed on a wall of 127,000 metallic rods. PaRis — “Fur in front, fur above.” to a shoe salon, a watch niche and an expansive room so declared Pietro Beccari, chief executive officer housing the fur and ready-to-wear collections. of Fendi, as he led a tour of the brand’s new flagship “it’s a very coherent theater for our great ac- at 51 avenue Montaigne here, referring to the striped tors,” said Beccari, referring to star handbags like the mink coats and bags given pride of place at the en- Peekaboo and the Baguette, which is exalted near the trance, and the fur salon visible upstairs through a staircase with a mesmerizing display, showing some glass porthole above. of them embedded in a wall sprouting 127,000 metal- The 6,500-square-foot unit, slated to open to the lic rods. They’re a wink to the needles used on the “fur public on Thursday, exemplifies how Beccari is putting tablets” where artisans experiment with intricately iconic products — headlined by fur and leather goods — spliced, multispecies furs. at the center of Fendi’s development. one of Fendi’s largest stores after its flagship palazzo The two-level boutique, boasting a new design con- in Rome, the Paris unit is “almost double” the size of its cept by Tokyo-based French architect Gwenael Nicolas, previous location at 22 avenue Montaigne, Beccari said. also telegraphs the brand’s hyper-luxurious positioning “space is also a luxury,” he said, flashing a big smile. and its pride in its Roman roots. chanel, Versace and saint laurent also recent- From the moment shoppers set foot on a haynes ly christened new or enlarged stores on avenue Robinson rug that took eight months to hand-weave, Montaigne, with céline and Givenchy coming soon. they encounter a range of luxurious materials and fur- Fendi plans to open another expanded unit, also nishings, many with an italian accent. reflecting the new store concept by Nicolas, on Via Gleaming black marble floors lead them through a Montenapoleone during in series of accessories salons with curved walls in traver- september. a london flagship is due in 2014. tine — “like the buildings in Rome,” Beccari said as he Focusing on women’s product categories, the Paris caressed the pale stone — or glossy lacquer in a deep, boutique boasts a room dedicated to handmade selleria captivating blue. bags and a made-to-order service for bags, with prices running into the five figures. a woven technique first employed on Fendi furs in the Fifties allows customers to add their names or initials on certain bags. other striking features in the store include a table, screen and treelike sculptures by Maria Pergay, as well as pieces by Giò Ponti, Gabriella crespi and hervé Van Der straeten. as reported, Fendi is to feature industrial design stars in its boutiques and link their commissions to the licensed Fendi casa home range,with reeditions of Pergay designs the first of what are being dubbed Fendi casa icons. connections to its hometown are also being under- lined. Beccari added the word Roma under the Fendi logo and gave its trademark yellow packaging a weathered pa- tina, like timeworn buildings in the eternal city.

Treelike sculptures by Maria Pergay are also featured in the store.

Fendi is feting the Paris boutique in grand style, unveil- ing a traveling exhibition of photos of Roman fountains by Karl lagerfeld, its designer of furs and rtw since 1965. The exhibit is to remain in five domelike structures along the seine for 10 days before moving on to other cities, including some in china. For the fountain photos, lagerfeld employed two A grand staircase circles a early photographic processes — daguerreotype and sculpture made of 28,000 platinotype, which involves platinum and has been Murano glass chards. The staircase leads up to the store’s shoe salon. rarely used over the past century due to the exorbitant cost. Platinum printing offers unrivaled durability and a rich tonal range, from deep blacks through brownish and midgray tones. “The Glory of Water” project dovetails from Fendi’s four- year commitment to restore several crumbling fountains in Rome, including the Trevi and the Quattro Fontane. The exhibition also showcases a restored version of an 18-minute fashion film lagerfeld’s late friend Jacques de Bascher shot in 1977 to present Fendi’s rtw and fur collection. The central character bathes in Roman fountains and collects water samples. in the foreword of the steidl book, lagerfeld calls de Bascher “the French dandy par excellence” and la- ments that “his short life did not allow him to ever make another film. he knew he would die young and conse- quently acted in a totally destructive way….The film has an artful mood of still-modern surrealism.” in other Fendi news, the fashion house has named Gaetano sciuto president of its americas division, ef- fective sept. 1. sciuto is currently Fendi’s licenses and accessories director based in lugano, switzerland. since joining Fendi in 2008, he spearheaded the brand’s development of areas such as timepieces, home, fragrance, eyewear, textiles and children’s wear. Prior to Fendi, sciuto worked for companies such as sebastian international, lotto sport and sola international, which was acquired by carl Zeiss in 2005. he also served as managing director of carl Zeiss Vision’s sunlens division. at Fendi americas, he succeeds stacy Van Praagh, who left the company in april. sciuto will relocate to

Goize Francois New York and report to retail and wholesale managing

by Furs are shown prominently throughout the flagship. director Jean-Marc Gallot. Fendi is expected to appoint a new licenses and ac-

photos cessories director in the next month.

w03a003a;10.indd 3 7/2/13 7:42 PM 07022013194302 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013

Chanel: Once upon a time, Karl Chanel Lagerfeld showed his Chanel couture collections at the historically resonant Ritz, and later, at various spaces about Paris, this pool, that abandoned school, the Tuileries Gardens. FA LL 2013 At some point, he decided that staging mere fashion shows wasn’t enough (no matter how great the clothes), and that he would make each one an extravaganza, a world unto itself imagined in the mind of Karl, realized beneath the glass dome of the Grand Palais. This season, several designers Coutu are discussing the need to make couture relevant with clothes that resonate beyond the red carpet and within the context of the real lives of real women. The notion that couture should not be immune to the practicalities of life may be novel to some, but not to Lagerfeld. He has always viewed the genre as one that, though steeped in tradition, must embrace and achieve currency. For fall, he addressed that belief in the title of his show — “The Old World and the New World” — and used his set to drive home the point. Guests walked into an ancient theater, its forlorn “stone” walls crumbling, windows broken, The set at Chanel. musty stage curtain disintegrating at the hem. All seemed under the Chanel Chanel cover of long-settled dust, which in fact was contrived brilliantly, no less deliberate a surface texture than a thick embroidered tweed. (“The seats just look dirty,” offered one chic p.r. “They’re not.”) Once the crowd settled into the haute mustiness, the curtain opened to reveal the vista of a dazzling 21st-century city, no one place in particular, but a place “like in the Far East,” Lagerfeld said during a preview. The old and gray provided entrée to the new and dazzling. Metaphors are swell, especially giant visual ones so stunning they awe. But if the clothes don’t stand up to the theatrics, quelle bust. Here, not a chance. After spring’s romantic reverie, Lagerfeld toughened up a bit, his girls now with thick brows and hair done for rockabilly height, the better to show off his new two-cornered picture hats. These were worn atop graphic, linear layers. By day, this collection was about two things — the suit and mesmerizing, meaty fabrics, the spoils of remarkable couture craftsmanship. Though jackets varied, they were worn almost always over a short skirt, slightly longer suede underskirt and thigh-high legwear — not boots, said Lagerfeld, but “stocking shoes,” held up by garters. The constant accessory: a wide belt that brought attention to the hips. As for those fabrics: ribbons, wools, silks, sequins and more embroidered into tweeds that flaunted their couture status while looking, dare we say, practical in their context. Lagerfeld worked mostly in grays, whites and blacks, occasionally interrupting the neutrality with shots of pink and green. Evening, too, focused on the hips, though here the volumes and surface happenings sometimes ran amuck. Not so with a soft-skirted dress with a hint of Seventies and the ease of FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE a T-shirt, its embroidered striped tulle as intricate in its discretion, WWD.com/ the look both ultrafresh and ultra- runway. Chanel. But then, as Lagerfeld offered in explanation as to how GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI he makes so many new ideas fit like an archive-worthy glove, “Chanel is an idea, not a reality.” PHOTOS BY WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013 5 WWD.COM re Armani Privé Armani Privé

Armani Privé

Armani Privé: Taking a breather black egret feathers caught on a evening jumpsuit with delicate from futuristic experiments slim choker. spaghetti straps and ever- and far-flung multicultural Although the jaw-length widening bands of black sequins. references, Giorgio Armani went sweep of hair occasionally Armani named his collection back to terra firma — Thirties brought Marlene Dietrich “Nude” for the pale makeup glamour — and delivered one of to mind, the clothes had colors he employed for his strongest Privé collections in contemporary airs and the daywear, and the gossamer recent seasons. pantsuits Armani paraded fabrics scattered with vaguely Couture may be for the were 100 percent his: The Deco embroideries or filmy 0.001 percent, but the Italian bottoms were cut pajama- metallic lace for night. designer wants to win over loose, while the streamlined The delicate eveningwear that entire fortunate fraction. jackets fell from pronounced was unapologetically pretty. “This collection is to please all yet rounded shoulders. Armani may have orchestrated women, not just five out of 10,” Armani also trotted out a few the tenderest spectacle of the he said backstage, tugging over jackets elongated to fingertip week as his barely there gowns, slender models who looked length, a pleasing proportion in tiered lace or stiff crinoline like they had slithered off echoed in a lacy slipdress over dusted with crystals, drifted by to Erté’s sketch pad (or the silver loose trousers. His commitment a swelling soundtrack of Mahler screen), each with a puff of to pants extended to a knockout symphonies. Maestro, indeed. 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013

Ulyana Stéphane Alexandre Vauthier Atelier Gustavo Lins Sergeenko Rolland

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway. GIANNONI AND DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY

Ulyana Sergeenko: Ulyana lace underlays and hand- dresses. Jumbo lapels and draping, worked close to the Atelier Gustavo Lins: Gustavo Sergeenko turned to Russian embroidery, all of which she sculptural sleeve inserts body and even on a nude- Lins continued on his folk stories as the inspiration executed with a sense of made from piles of satin, tone bustier jumpsuit, were quest to create “everyday” for her third couture control. Standouts included glossy vinyl or Rhodoid proof that the designer couture. Channeling the collection. More specifically, a shaved beaver cape with a were the main points is evolving in his simplicity of Japanese the “Russian Gothic” theme black funnel neck embroidered of surface interest craft. Juxtaposing architect Tadao Ando’s was a suitable foil for her with flowers and river pearls. on otherwise clean- FALL 2013 ultrashort work, the Brazilian designer trademark style, which If there was any doubt that cut navy, black and miniskirts with produced a beautifully sits somewhere between Sergeenko, the wife of Russian white silhouettes. sporty stadium cut black foal pencil skirt Victorian governess and Fifties oligarch Danil Khachaturov, The performance PARIS jackets, done with an orange silk chiffon bombshell. Models stepped could hold her own alongside of a flamenco up in crocodile lining, for example, which out from a frame shaped like Paris couture designers, dancer during the COUTURE or black velvet, was somewhat reminiscent a looking glass, wearing her the number of women in show underscored added an edgy of the shapes of Ando’s signature high-necked dresses, the audience sporting her the collection’s vibe. Dream Chair. The designer’s transparent panel details distinctive designs was telling Spanish flair. Vauthier also signature kimono influences hinting at a more subversive of a different story. took another shot worked best on an ensemble edge. A red velvet dress with Alexandre Vauthier: The dresses at the bustier this season featuring a black-and-white whorls of fabric at the waist Stéphane Rolland: Stéphane were short; the music was — in satin overlaid with printed silk rider jacket suggested Little Red Riding Rolland cued the strictness thumping. Hello, disco! With tightly wrapped tulle for with a lambskin bustier and Hood all grown up. of 17th-century Spanish royal spotlights crisscrossing the a graphic effect. Form- cropped lambskin harem The level of craftsmanship lace collars with the futuristic runway, Alexandre Vauthier fitting, asymmetric dresses, trousers. The overall feel was impressive, with details lusciousness of his discernible unleashed a clique of dynamic provocatively slit open was calm and reserved, like honeycomb ruching, volumes, producing a lineup party vixens. Naturally, day on the side, remained the although some of the looks tear-shaped cutouts, Vologda of red carpet-friendly tuxedo looks were scarce. Elaborate standard look. were almost too discreet. WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013 7 WWD.COM

brushing up on her classics. “I’m starting doing a modern- Carla FASHION SCOOPS Bruni day version of Shakespeare’s ‘Cymbeline’ in the fall,” she said. Jovovich, who is staying PLAYERS’ CLUB: Shakespeare first couture show, was in Paris for the summer to wrote: “All the world’s a stage, getting to grips with the set. help her five-year-old daughter and all the men and women “It’s so thrilling — it’s not brush up on her French, merely players.” Karl Lagerfeld what I expected at all,” the admitted she hadn’t been took the adage literally, setting “Bridesmaids” star said. Byrne familiar with the play, one of his Chanel haute couture just wrapped “This Is Where the Bard’s less-known works. “I show in Paris on Tuesday on a I Leave You,” costarring Jason had to look it up,” she confided. crumbling theater set. His front Bateman, and will be seen Catherine Denveuve had a row was fittingly churning with opposite Zac Efron in “Townies.” couple of days off from filming thesps, including Kristen Stewart, Cannavale, her leading André Téchiné’s “French Riviera” Rose Byrne, Michael Pitt, Vanessa man in real life, will appear with Guillaume Canet and was Paradis and Bobby Cannavale. in Woody Allen’s upcoming using the time to take in some Earlier, Rihanna — who wore her “Blue Jasmine” alongside Cate shows. “I’m not filming today cream Chanel maxi-cardigan Blanchett and Alec Baldwin. The or tomorrow, so I’m able to see Christian Lacroix with nothing but pearls — had American actor, who also stars Armani today and Gaultier DOMINIQUE MAITRE and Christian joined Carole Bouquet, Virginie in the TV series “Boardwalk tomorrow,” she explained. Louboutin Ledoyen and Cécile Cassel for the Empire,” said he usually Alyson Le Borges, the PHOTOS BY first of two shows. prefers stage to film. granddaughter of Alain Delon; Stewart was flanked by “I just like doing it every Clotilde Courau and husband noted Elie Top, whose own dresses that will always go French director Olivier Assayas, night, having a different creations for Lanvin will be on,” said at the Mona with whom she is preparing to experience every night, and featured in the museum’s Bismarck American Center shoot “Sils Maria,” a drama set frankly I like the roles better contemporary jewelry for Art and Culture in Paris — as luck would have it — in on stage than I do in films,” exhibition this fall. on Monday night. “How you the world of theater. “I play a Cannavale said. “When you are a writer, wear it, how you translate it, personal assistant to an actress. Pitt, who termed the decor you’ve been reading how you accessorize it. What It takes two very particular “shabby chic,” noted Shakespeare. When you you do with structure — no people to have that relationship he was discovered by FOR MORE are a designer, you’ve been structure. I mean, it’s just be functional — one that a casting agent while SCOOPS, SEE studying Schiap — she is the insane, the black dress.” services the other — because acting off-Broadway Shakespeare of fashion,” said She was speaking at the Juliette Binoche is playing the in 1999. Bouquet, WWD.com Inès de la Fressange. vernissage for André Leon Talley’s actress that I assist, and she meanwhile, is Jean-Charles Castelbajac “Little Black Dress” exhibition is one of the most powerful keeping a foot in both lamented, “ Yo u have a really that’s running there from women I think I’ve ever seen in camps. Before tackling the role hard time recognizing who Wednesday to Sept. 22. The film,” said the “Twilight” star. of Medea onstage next year, she is doing what these days. show, which made its debut last Noting that her character will head to India to shoot a When I started, designers had fall at the Savannah College of is no pushover, Stewart said movie directed by Atiq Rahimi. recognizable styles. Today Art and Design, features about she would have to hold her “ Yo u completely adapt to is a karaoke time, but this is 50 garments and is sponsored own against the Oscar-winning the city, to the location. It’s also authentic. I see Lacroix, but by MAC Cosmetics — host Binoche. “I’m going to try an internal voyage, a personal there is a lot of Schiap, too. of the cocktail followed by a desperately to not be squashed journey, of course,” she said. Look at the lobster.” dinner at the Palais de Tokyo’s by a woman like that, and it’s — JOELLE DIDERICH “Fantastic craziness with a Monsieur Bleu restaurant. not going to be an easy thing,” AND MILES SOCHA lot of elegance” is how Azzedine Wang noted the Fortuny and she said with a nervous laugh. Alaïa put it, adding, “I admire Givenchy pieces on display. Assayas said he had written UNDERSTUDY: Exhausted from her for that.” the movie around Binoche, with the intensity of playing Winnie Vanessa Bruno, Jean Paul Mandela Gaultier Maxime Simoens Roland Agatha Ruiz whom he previously worked on in the upcoming biopic STEPHANE FEUGERE , , his 2008 film “Summer Hours.” “Long Walk to Freedom,” Milla Mouret and Christian Louboutin de la Prada “I wanted to do a sort of Naomie Harris is taking a well- Jovovich were also among the guests. portrait of an actress in her earned break. “I’ve never done PHOTO BY So, does the exhibit portend 40s, and I thought it would so much research for anyone Monsieur Lacroix’s return to be more interesting to set I’ve ever played. Because she’s Emanuele Filiberto; designer haute couture? “Quelle horreur! it in the theater, because an icon, I wanted to represent Edouard Vermeulen, and Not at all!” exclaimed the it gets rid of the material her properly. It was very Tunisian-born model Afef Jnifen master tailor. “But it was an constraints of cinema,” he intense,” the “Skyfall” actress were also among the guests. enlightening experience.” explained. “It’s about that confided at the Armani Privé — ALEX WYNNE — PAULINA SZMYDKE very fine line between reality show in what was her first time and imagination — actors are attending couture week. HAUTE SOCIETY: “He killed it,” HATS OFF: The eccentric hats always somewhere in between.” Milla Jovovich has also been enthused Riccardo Tisci, strolling of the late Italian fashion Byrne, attending her a studious girl lately, and is through Christian Lacroix’s editor Anna Piaggi will go on installation paying sartorial display during Milan Fashion

tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli at Week in September, WWD has FEUGERE Paris’ Les Arts Décoratifs. “I learned. An exhibition entitled love the animal side of it. It has “Hat-ology” and curated by the same irony and darkness milliner Stephen Jones is to open STEPHANE of Schiaparelli,” said Tisci of to the public Sept. 22 at the BY

the 18 designs that will be sent Palazzo Morando and feature PHOTO to the Schiaparelli Foundation everything from a McDonald’s after the two-day exhibit by invitation only. The Fortuny dress was also “They are like paintings,” the favorite of Guerlain’s marveled Carla Bruni, who global creative director Olivier sneaked in before other guests Echaudemaison, who called the arrived, fresh from a trip to creation “sublime.” the Parc Astérix near Paris. For her part, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Kristen Vanessa “I took my son there, but I said her two top picks Stewart Paradis just watched.” were Fortuny and Balenciaga. No roller-coaster rides for The designer known for her her. “I’m too old,” said the colorful creations said, “I former Lacroix model, puffing only wear black things for on an electronic cigarette. very special occasions like Bruni is otherwise engaged funerals,” and added her with her new album. “I’m going preferred hue is fuchsia. on tour in the fall in and A sketch of “I think the concept of Europe, and then in April in Anna Piaggi. the black dress in the 21st the United States,” she said. century is so important Rossy de Palma, who is because our world is in such taking her musical show on baseball cap to Chanel couture transformation, and the tour this year, was frantically creations. little black dress is such an taking pictures of each piece. According to Jones, Piaggi establishment of fashion,” “Everything — I want to wear would make every hat her own added Roland Mouret. “It’s so everything,” she said of the and “try them on back-to-front, nice to see where the roots mélange of Lacroix’s opulence upside-down, pin on a jewel, of it start from.” and Schiaparelli’s whimsy. add a veil.” — M.S. Designers such as Riccardo Tisci Olivier Theyskens Haider

STEPHANE FEUGERE “The figurative and the , , Rose Byrne and surrealistic elements full of DRESS FOR SUCCESS: “There Ackermann and Peter Dundas were Bobby Cannavale Rihanna wit — they are a great source is a vocabulary or a dialogue also among the guests. — JENNIFER WEIL PHOTOS BY of inspiration for accessories,” or a monologue on black 8 WWD wednesday, july 3, 2013 ’’

denim Olah Sets Alliance L.A. Makers Hope for Export Help With Chinese Mill {Continued from page one} aged the audience to use these bur- it’s changing The vulnerability of L.A.-based dens to increase efficiency. “We should things every- companies was dramatized in April take a hard look at why we do things where. We have By ARNOLD J. KARR when the European Union boosted the this way,” he said. “Look at every as- an opportunity tariff on U.S.-made denim to 38 per- pect of the pipeline in order to im- to look at things OLAH INC., the New York-based, denim-fo- cent from 12 percent. True Religion we thought were cused textile and apparel development com- was forced to move production of a blips on the pany, has formed a partnership with China’s portion of its women’s product outside Their [Brazil’s] GeorGe Chinsee photo by radar but are Prosperity Textiles. of L.A. and the U.S. in response. really critical. Under the new arrangement, effective “The orders for these particular As an industry, Oct. 1, Olah will function as the company’s goods were placed some time ago at protectionist we have to ac- sales agent in the U.S. and provide guidance certain prices, and in order to meet cept the things on product development and sustainability those prices for sales in Europe, there regulations will begin that we haven’t practices to Prosperity, which has a produc- was no way that we could ship from done.” tion capacity of 5 Los Angeles. So already jobs have been to work against them. Tradegood works to facilitate U.S. million yards of lost,” Greaves said. “It’s distressing.” manufacturing, and Raghu believes denim a month. Andrew Metchek added, “It’s not just Their manufacturing it is primed for a resurgence. “There The arrange- Olah women’s denim, all areas of produc- is an understanding even by offshore ment will take ef- tion are affected. Profits will go up, base will drop, and players that there is value in re-shor- fect as Olah’s 25- but jobs are lost. What suffers is the ing,” he said. “Is it really that benefi- year association ‘Made in USA’ values.” cial to go offshore when you consider with Kurabo China In addition to the tariff, manufac- they’ll find themselves the rising wages in China and the huge ends. Olah contin- turers expressed concern about the ex- supply chain? A change won’t happen ues to work with tensive regulations in California, from where the U.S. did immediately, but the jobs that should Kurabo’s Japanese the state’s Proposition 65 — a statute be here will come back.” denim and textiles regulating toxic chemicals which Gov. 30 years ago. Where will Made in USA product operation. Jerry Brown has vowed to reform — stand in five years? Burke said it was “Not only to the requirements of the federal — Kevin BurKe, AmericAn critical for American companies to ex- is Prosperity a Affordable Care Act. The full force of AppArel & FootweAr pand outside of traditional markets, large mill, but image in "denim la panel / kevin burke state and federal regulations can make and remained hopeful that trade re- its values in new - karr" folder to be scanned - photo by goods produced in California up to 20 AssociAtion strictions would ease in countries like development, George Chinsee percent more expensive than merchan- Brazil. “Their protectionist regula- sustainability, dise produced elsewhere. prove our costs. In many situations, tions will begin to work against them. sustainable cot- photo by Donato sarDella Donato photo by -- “Our industry needs exceptions,” challenges like increased tariffs can Their manufacturing base will drop, ton and laser Kevin Burke said Greaves. “Year after year more turn into blessings.” and they’ll find themselves where the technology make them the perfect collabo- regulations on the state and federal Raghu said the growing pains are a U.S. did 30 years ago,” he said. rator for Olah,” said Andrew Olah, chief level occur, and it doesn’t seem to necessary part of the transformation of Metchek also believed that mar- executive officer of Olah Inc. “Prosperity align with this whole government ini- the U.S. into an export economy. “This keting is critical. “As an industry understands the way the future of our indus- tiative of keeping manufacturing in has a lot to do with the rebalancing of we’ve done a lousy job marketing the try will unfold. That means they understand America and Los Angeles.” the global economy. As China is moving value in ‘Made in USA.’ Youths don’t and have their hands around the ideas of American Apparel’s Bailey encour- faster toward a consumption’’ economy look at a clothing label to see where global product development, wash develop- it’s made. But look at the ments using entirely sustainable processes Apple ad that says ‘Designed and a company mission to be part of all new by Apple in California.’ provocative technological developments Obviously there is value throughout our industry on all levels from added to something coming fiber to manufacturing equipment.” from the United States.” Prosperity, based in Hong Kong, will ex- The panel was organized hibit at the upcoming Kingpins trade shows by the L.A. Mayor’s office, the in Los Angeles, on July 9 and 10, and in New Los Angeles Regional Export York, on July 16 and 17. Kingpins is produced Council and Tradegood. by Olah Inc. Acne Accelerates Retail Growth toward spectacular venues — such as By MILES SOCHA a former bank in Stockholm. Schiller said the Rue Froissart store in Paris, PARIS — A clutch of boutique openings with its melange of vivid color and in Europe and Asia should push Acne sculptural elements in an industrial Studios past the revenue threshold of 100 setting, perhaps best represents where million euros, or $130 million, this year. the company plans to go. “Functional, Detailing its development plans, modern,” he said. Acne chairman Mikael Schiller noted Freestanding stores range in size the Swedish fashion firm is already from less than 500 square feet, in Palais close to blanketing Scandinavia. It Royal here, to more than 5,000 square counts eight locations in its hometown feet for the forthcoming Los Angeles of Stockholm, for example. unit in the Eastern Columbia Building, “But in the other markets, there’s a which will come complete with a café. lot of growth potential,” he said. Acne continues to steer clear of The coming months will see a sec- triple-A locations, favoring emerging ond store open in London, a third in neighborhoods or destinations. “Not // Paris, three units in Seoul with part- typical fashion locations,” Schiller said, NEW YORK SEPTEMBER 18, 2013 ner Shinsegae, and a boutique in flashing a smile. To wit: Its next Paris Japan in Osaka. store, slated for a fall opening, will be Hong Kong is also a top priority for a on Quai Voltaire, a riverside strip known @wwdsummits #wwddig company-owned unit, given its stature for elite antique dealers and no fashion as a shopping mecca — and a window shops, save for Dries Van Noten on near- for Mainland China. by Quai Malaquais. With its early roots in denim, Acne Schiller noted that wholesale re- opened its first boutique in 2003. The mains a critical channel, and it ships to brand has 35 locations, including com- about 650 doors worldwide. “When we For a full list of speakers: wwd.com/falldigital pany-owned stores, shops-in-shop and open retail, we also grow with wholesale franchise locations. in that city,” he said. “We noticed this in TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.5926 Given the critical mass the firm is Japan and the U.S.” TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4425 reaching with retail — which now gen- Acne also plans to continue de- erates about 45 percent of revenues — veloping its online store, which SPONSORED BY: Schiller said creative director Jonny launched in 2006 and currently ships Johansson and architect Andreas to some 65 countries. Fornell are aiming to “standardize The privately held company, with some elements” of its shop concept. Schiller and Johansson holding the “We need to take ownership of the majority, generated sales of 89 million space more,” he said. euros in its fiscal year 2012, or $117.2 Acne’s early retail forays veered million at average exchange.

w03a008a;10.indd 8 7/2/13 6:41 PM 07022013184220 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013 9 WWD.COM Bellettini Succeeds Deneve at YSL

{Continued from page one} literal take on grunge for fall, Slimane’s and new business development. to the fashion industry from Apple, and Francesca makeover is showing commercial trac- Most recently, she oversaw all aspects worked for Courrèges, Nina Ricci and Bellettini tion. YSL reported a 16.9 percent rev- of merchandising, visual display and Lanvin before joining YSL in April 2011. enue gain in the first quarter, besting communication at Bottega.

He brought Slimane, who had de- all its luxury peers at Kering, parent of Commenting on her appointment, voted himself to photography and art Gucci, Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, François-Henri Pinault, chairman and after exiting Homme in 2007, back Boucheron and other brands. ceo of Kering and chairman of YSL, said, to the mythic French house and part- According to a Paris source, YSL is “Her expertise and her determination nered with him to “revolutionize fash- expected to continue charting top-line persuaded me of her ability to implement ion again,” as Deneve boasted to WWD growth when Kering reports first-half Saint Laurent’s day-to-day strategy.”

in an interview last year. results on July 25, although heavy invest- Pinault also thanked Deneve for a “re- Paris-born Slimane burst on to the ments in the creative overhaul and ex- markable job in leading Saint Laurent’s fashion scene in the late Nineties with his panding the store network are expected transformation and development.” modernist and provocative men’s wear for to weigh on profitability. The business titan has been vocal in his YSL, ultimately joining Dior and creating It is understood Bellettini, 43, recruit- support for Slimane, who exerts a heavy Dior Homme, overseeing everything from ed by Bottega in 2008 as worldwide mer- hand in not only design, but also the look fragrances to the store design, up to and ·· chandising director, will play a key role of staff in his stores and the placement of including the contemporary artists com- in reinforcing Saint Laurent’s crucial editors at his shows, some seated behind missioned for the fitting rooms. leather goods business. his famous friends and designer peers. In his return to YSL, Slimane suc- Star products created by Pilati, nota- Kering declined to elaborate on the ceeded Stefano Pilati, who logged a bly Tribute and Tribtoo shoes and Cabas management change, or comment on spec- topsy-turvy eight-year stint, and immedi- Chyc bags, were originally swept aside by ulation that Deneve had become estranged ately set about an all-encompassing over- Slimane but have recently trickled back from Slimane, who lives in Los Angeles haul of product and image. For starters, onto shelves alongside Slimane creations and moved YSL’s design studios there. Slimane changed the name of the collec- such as the Betty and Duffle bags. In Tuesday’s statement, Pinault tion and stores to Saint Laurent to sym- An Italian national, Bellettini joined lauded Slimane’s “clear vision” for bolize the principles of youth, freedom Bottega from Gucci. A graduate of YSL. “He has successfully rejuvenated and modernity that inspired the creation Bocconi University in Milan, she worked and repositioned the brand,” he said, of Saint Laurent Rive Gauche ready-to- in investment banking in London before asserting that it is “one of the world’s

wear back in 1966. joining Prada Group in 2002 in planning most prominent fashion houses and my He also returned to his familiar ob- ambition is that Saint Laurent is able sessions — androgyny, minimalist archi- to realize its considerable long-term po- tecture and the music scene. He intro- tential for growth.” duced a sleek marble-driven boutique Her expertise and her determination Given YSL’s ambitions to rival the design and snapped moody black-and- likes of Chanel and Dior in size and ca-

white ad campaigns featuring a range persuaded me of her ability to implement chet, it has set an interim goal of reach- of musicians, from insider (Christopher ing 1 billion euros in sales before the Owens of San Francisco band Girls) to Saint Laurent’s day-to-day strategy. end of this decade, according to indus- incendiary (Marilyn Manson). try sources. YSL revenues in 2012 to- While his first collections proved — FRANCOIS-HENRI PINAULT ON FRANCESCA BELLETTINI taled 473 million euros, or $608.2 million divisive among critics, particularly his at average exchange. ·· includes a few other properties along Urban Outfitters Inks Manhattan Lease for New Concept Broadway between Herald Square and Times Square that it hopes to fill with Free People, Terrain and BHLDN seen from the brand.” Malkin Holdings new retail and restaurants. By DAVID MOIN brands has signed a lease for 56,730 supervises 1333 Broadway. The retailer Officials at Urban Outfitters could square feet on three levels on the north- will take occupancy in September, ac- not be reached for comment Tuesday NEW YORK — Urban Outfitters Inc. will west corner of 35th Street and Broadway, cording to Malkin. on the new concept or its name. “It’s to build its largest store in the world at 1333 just north of Macy’s. The stretch along Broadway·· from be determined. There are a lot of mov- Broadway in Manhattan to unveil a new Anthony Malkin, president of Malkin Macy’s to Times Square offers little in ing parts,” said a real estate source. “lifestyle center” concept. Holdings, said Urban Outfitters will cre- the way of retailing and entertainment Urban Outfitters’ largest stores are in the The Philadelphia-based operator of ate “an innovative new lifestyle center and at night becomes desolate, though its 25,000-square-foot range. the Urban Outfitters, Anthropologie, concept with new features never before relatively new pedestrian walkway has Malkin said 1333 Broadway contains helped enliven the area. Malkin said that 12 stories and 363,000 square feet of mod- the new Urban Outfitters concept “will ern office space and has undergone a $71 The area has seen transformational be a huge catalyst for this retail and of- million upgrade involving the lobby and fice neighborhood extending north of restoring its ceiling and marble finishes, Herald Square. The area has seen trans- installing two new elevators and reno- changes over the past few years…and Urban formational changes over the past few vating three existing passenger eleva- years, as Broadway with its pedestrian tors and freight elevators. The building Outfitters will be a magnet for shoppers. arcades links Herald Square to Times is owned by 1333 Broadway Associates Square, and Urban Outfitters will be a LLC, a partnership led by Peter L. — ANTHONY MALKIN, MALKIN HOLDINGS magnet for shoppers.” Malkin Holdings Malkin and Anthony Malkin.

sales professional at the men’s Wealthy Women’s Top Jewelry Pick: Tiffany fashion and accessories brands. “Relationship selling is not something exclusive to markets cessories category, Michael share of customer-salesperson fashion (9 percent), Burberry like high-end automobiles, real By LISA LOCKWOOD Kors holds a 35.9 percent mar- relationships (40 percent), fol- women’s fashion (7 percent), estate and wealth management ket share, followed by Prada lowed by Prada women’s fash- Ralph Lauren men’s fashion (7 services,” said Milton Pedraza, TIFFANY & CO. is the jewelry (21.1 percent), Burberry (18.3 ion (28 percent), Tiffany jew- percent) and Marc Jacobs wom- chief executive officer of The brand most frequently pur- percent), Louis Vuitton (17.4 elry (25 percent), Louis Vuitton en’s fashion (6 percent). Luxury Institute “Even in luxu- chased by wealthy women over percent), Chanel (16.8 percent), ··women’s fashion (24 percent), Among the men, Ralph ry jewelry and fashion, relation- the past five years, followed Gucci (16.6 percent) and Marc David Yurman jewelry (16 per- Lauren and Brooks Brothers ships cultivated by trust and an by David Yurman and Cartier, Jacobs (16.6 percent). held the largest market understanding of customer pref- according to a new survey re- Customers were asked share in the men’s fashion erences can help boost both fre- leased by The Luxury Institute. which of these luxury and accessories category. quency and size of sales.” Rounding out the top 10 are, brands, if any, they had Overall, wealthy men are The study concluded that in order, Judith Ripka, Mikimoto, purchased over the last less likely than women to given the recent growth of Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, 12 months. The report re- 35.9% build relationships with men’s fashion and accessories, Asprey, Harry Winston and Piaget. vealed that these brands salespeople, the study found. luxury brands could better en- ’ MARKET SHARE IN THE The Luxury Institute polled vary widely in their ability The study concluded gage wealthy men by improving FASHION AND ACCESSORIES CATEGORY, 504 women with a minimum to build relationships with that 17 percent of women one-on-one interaction beyond gross annual income of $200,000 wealthy women. ACCORDING TO THE SURVEY. surveyed have a preferred the purchase, by handwritten and a minimum net worth of $5 Customers were then sales professional at one or thank-you notes, free altera- million. Overall, 63 percent of asked if they had a specif- more luxury jewelry brands, tions and personalized product the women surveyed reported ic sales professional they pre- cent), Chanel women’s fash- and 16 percent have a preferred suggestions. More than half of having purchased luxury jew- ferred to shop with or commu- ion (15 percent), Michael Kors sales professional at one or the women who purchased from elry in the past five years. nicate with at the top 12 luxury women’s fashion (11 percent), more fashion and accessories both jewelry and fashion brands The survey also showed that brands purchased by men and Gucci women’s fashion (9 per- brands. Only 12 percent of men said they appreciate handwrit- in the women’s fashion and ac- women. Cartier had the largest cent), Brooks Brothers men’s reported having a preferred ten thank-you notes. 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, JULY 3, 2013 Creative Diplomacy

WASHINGTON — Italian history Beatrice di Borbone. “ Yo u defines the art of flaunting high have the chance to create culture to win commercial rooms, tables, beautiful events. success — from ancient Rome But if you take off all the to Marco Polo to Cosimo de’ trimmings, what matters most Medici, who hired Michelangelo is meeting people.” to help build support for his city- At an embassy event state. But these days, with Italy’s celebrating Elle magazine and government in a state of constant Gucci last March, the couple crisis, feting Italian design can welcomed Vice President test even the savviest Roman’s Joseph Biden’s wife Jill, along devotion to “la bella figura.’’ with White House deputy chief That’s the challenge facing of staff Alyssa Mastromonaco Ambassador Claudio Bisogniero and New York Sen. Kirsten and his wife, Laura Denise, Gillibrand. Two weeks later,

who this year are celebrating Biden was back for the Opera Italian culture in America. Ball, this time accompanied by “Washington is a special her husband, who delighted the city,’’ says Bisogniero, who crowd by reminiscing about his eye Ambassador Claudio operates around the clock to wife’s Italian-American father. Bisogniero with wife SAMPERTON KYLE

woo friends in high places. “If With friends and events like Laura Denise. an ambassador comes here and these, what could the Bisognieros thinks he can do his work in the possibly have to worry about? PHOTO BY old traditional way, to stay in his Lots. In between those two if he had taken a moment to overnight trips to President U.S. to celebrate Italy, the office and send diplomatic notes high-profile parties, Italy’s telephone Terzi to see how his Obama’s hometown. “Chicago Bisognieros make the most and wait for an answer, I don’t foreign minister, Giulio Terzi di predecessor was surviving, and Milan are sister cities,” he of cultural opportunities think he has a chance. That isn’t Sant’Agata, Bisogniero’s boss and Bisogniero replied he’d been explains, later tweeting about in the nation’s capital. The how this city works.·· Yo u need to embassy predecessor (Terzi took too busy. And who can blame attending opening night of ambassador studies piano go out to meet people in think the embassy’s chief of staff with him? Italy under Letta is four days of Verdi concerts by with a teacher from the Levine tanks, opinion makers. It is so him when he returned to Rome), struggling to hold together a Ricardo Muti and the Chicago School, but his real passion is important to be active, present resigned unexpectedly in March. centrist government despite Symphony. While in Chicago, flying, especially with his friend and visible on the D.C. scene.” As Italian ambassador to pulls from media magnate Silvio he also revisited discussions and fellow pilot John Mason, He’s certainly that. One of Washington from 2009 to 2011, Berlusconi (recently found guilty with an Italian-American the former chairman and Bisogniero’s newest gambits is Terzi is credited with initiating of having sex with an underage doctor and medical robotics chief executive officer of the the Twitter account he opened in the year of Italian culture prostitute) on the right and expert he met earlier this year National Savings and Trust Co. March. So far this year with 2,700 in America. In December, crusading comedian Giuseppe about ways to collaborate with (now SunTrust Bank). tweets, he’s lined up close to 2,300 he made a special trip to “Beppe” Grillo on the left. No Italian researchers. Laura Denise, who dislikes followers — almost 50 percent Washington as foreign minister wonder the ambassador prefers Italy’s commitment to flying, prefers staying closer to more than British Ambassador to launch the program with to stick to a more upbeat script. focusing diplomatic missions Villa Firenze, the 22-acre estate Sir Peter Westmacott. a reception at the National Bisogniero won’t discuss the on business and cultural that is the Italian ambassador’s exchange programs began in D.C. home and which is near Tokyo in 2001, with Beijing in the official residences of Israel If an ambassador comes here and thinks he can do his work 2006 and in 2010. “We and Kuwait. She has decorated Italians always have had strong the house with antiques from in the old traditional way, to stay in his office and send diplomatic relations with China from the her Olivieri family, which time of Marco Polo and Jesuit dates to the 12th century. Her missionary Matteo Ricci,” says grandmother’s house where notes and wait for an answer, I don’t think he has a chance. Bisogniero, looking dapper in she was born in Mache is near a Davide Cenci suit. “And now the papal city of Fabriano, — AMBASSADOR CLAUDIO BISOGNIERO investments are growing there in where the Renaissance master exports of fashion, luxury goods, Raphael got his drawing paper. While Westmacott finesses Gallery of Art to celebrate success of Grillo’s Five Star cars and industrial goods.” An avid reader of English the benefits of a common a three-month exhibition movement, but is happy to tout The year of Italian culture literature, Bisogniero during language, multiple defense of Michelangelo’s marble the strength of Italian President in America marks the first university spent a summer alliances and an able crew masterpiece “David-Apollo.” Giorgio Napolitano, 89, known time Italian companies abroad studying the subject in of high-profile royal visitors, Three months later, affectionately as “King Giorgio.” have bankrolled the project. Dublin. She relaxes reading Bisogniero deploys his own Terzi exited in a blaze of “He is fantastic,” says the “Given the financial crisis in Charles Dickens and Elizabeth advantages, including a palatial recriminations. His resignation, ambassador, who turns 59 this Europe, we could not look Gaskell, along with modern city residence, a politically he said, was a protest against month. “Universally respected to government for funding,” Italian writer Dino Buzzati. active Italian-American then-Prime Minister Mario both domestically and says Bisogniero. Contributors “ Yo u read about what moves community and a committed Monti’s refusal to extradite internationally, he has led the include Fiat; S. Pellegrino; people, and it’s all there. In and entertaining wife. two Italian sailors accused of country through difficult times.” Gruppo Campari; chocolatier books you can really learn As comfortable pouring tea murder in India. That charge So while Italy·· battles a Ferrero; lottery and online about people. Because writers for two as hosting a dinner for prompted the beleaguered tough economy and political gaming giant Sisal; Sicilian base their characters on the 500, Laura Denise packs the technocrat famously to declare confusion, the ambassador’s vintner Donnafugata; lives of people they know, stamina and charm needed to parliamentary investigators main goal is to end this year multinational oil and gas reading books is like living 200 to make every guest feel looking into the Indian affair, with a portfolio long on leads company ENI; firearms maker more lives,” she says. “Love, special. “The diplomatic life “This government can’t wait to be for future business and artistic Beretta, and Intesa Sanpaolo, envy, searching for peace, it’s is all about creativity,” says relieved of its duty.” (Monti still collaborations for Italian the Turin-based banking group all there. We face it every day of Laura Denise, whose favorite had to wait a month for Enrico companies and organizations. that owns up to 33 percent of life, and like the characters, we designers include Renato Letta to succeed him in April.) Last month, Bisogniero Alitalia airlines. must choose what is right.” Balestra, Giorgio Armani and Asked at the Opera Ball zipped off on one of several In between traveling the — SUSAN WATTERS

to doubling as a model. Other SOUNDING OFF: Diego Della Valle publishing business, respecting was in the past,” he wrote. MEMO PAD campaigns she’s done have sounded off Tuesday afternoon employees and reinforcing — ALESSANDRA TURRA included Bulgari, Talbots, and, about RCS Mediagroup SpA, the editorial independence.” recently, the Fedoras for Fairness struggling Italian media group that He also confirmed that if this MODEL LINEUP: Inez van Lamsweerde MOORE, MOORE, MOORE: Julianne Initiative. The Reed Krakoff publishes the daily Corriere della strategy is embraced, he will play and Vinoodh Matadin captured the Moore is the face of the Reed Krakoff campaign will break in September Sera. Della Valle, who has an 8.7 an active role, but if it doesn’t young, edgy spirit of Miu Miu’s fall fall campaign, which the designer issues of fashion and lifestyle percent stake in RCS, explained happen, “I’ll take note that there collection in the label’s advertising himself recently photographed on magazines. — MARC KARIMZADEH why he has not yet agreed to the is an unwillingness to face the campaign, which makes its debut in location at the Cultural Services capital increase slated for Friday. critical situation that I have international publications this month. of the French Embassy on Fifth “I’m waiting for some frequently highlighted and that The photographer duo shot the Avenue in New York. “I have Julianne important stakeholders to confirm there is a desire to continue the varied cast of models, including admired Julianne’s extraordinary Moore what we have, on many occasions, operation [in a way that is] not in Katlin Aas, Emily DiDonato, Daphne talent and unique style for many in Reed discussed and considered the interest of RCS Mediagroup, Groeneveld, Georgia May Jagger, years and have been fortunate Krakoff’s fall positively,” he said, referring its employees and stakeholders.” Adriana Lima, Marina Nery, Hind Sahli, enough to get to know her on campaign. to the creation of a modern Della Valle closed the Anne Verhallen and Lindsey Wixson, on both a professional and personal governing body, the dissolution statement with a message to a seaside pier with the skyline of a level,” said Krakoff, adding of the current shareholders leading figures in the Italian mysterious city in the background. that the actress embodies many agreement, the altering of the business world. “Now it’s time In one image, Sahli and of his brand’s values, i.e. “the industrial plan and the review of to make a clear decision, and DiDonato are shown wearing the combination of personal strength, some of the terms for the capital for some of us it’s time to show collection’s opulent astrakhan confidence and a subtle sensuality, increase. According to Della whether we want this country to maxi coats while seated on two which is strongly reflected in the Valle, this strategy would “give change, or whether we want to bikes and gazing intensely into imagery.” Moore is no stranger the company a better future in the keep everything as it is and as it the camera. — A .T. WWD wednesday, july 3, 2013 11 WWD.COM

auction in which Rhinestone, a business formed by silpada’s founders, offered Avon to Divest Silpada Business the highest bid. a standard & Poor’s analysis “stabilizing avon’s U.s. business is a the business to “historical levels of Tuesday made clear the work avon has By Belisa silva top priority in our turnaround efforts,” profitability.” ahead of it. said avon chief executive officer sheri The company expects to incur a post- “Though the company’s new manage- iN a MOve to narrow its focus and in- McCoy, who took the helm in april tax noncash charge of approximately $50 ment team appears to be gaining some crease profitability, avon Products inc. 2012. “Divesting silpada is an impor- million, “reflecting the estimated loss on traction in stemming declining sales and cut a deal to sell its silpada Designs jew- tant step in our plan and will enable us sale in the second quarter of 2013.” avon margins, performance in some of the elry business to Rhinestone Holdings. to focus our resources on the core avon said it expects the proceeds from the company’s key markets remains frag- The sale, which is expected to close business.” sale will be used for general purposes, ile,” said s&P. “The Brazilian market, today, includes an $85 million all-cash avon said in February that it was namely the “repayment of outstanding for example, is highly competitive and transaction, plus an earn-out of up to $15 reviewing the silpada business and it debt, further strengthening avon’s bal- improvement remains tenuous, in our million if silpada achieves earnings tar- subsequently decided to divest due to ance sheet.” view. The U.s. market continues to be gets over two years. the amount of time it would take return The divestiture process involved an soft and unprofitable.” L Capital Takes CellularLine Stake Blumarine to Show in DvR Capital. sales including licenses of 300 million By alessaNDRa TURRa “We decided to invest in a very dy- By lUisa ZaRGaNi euros, or $384 million, in line with the namic and successful company and previous year. europe accounted for 50 MilaN — l Capital is entering the mo- a strong management team to build a MilaN — Blumarine is planning a fash- percent of revenues. bile devices market — or at least the leader of the industry,” said l Capital ion show in Moscow in November. The company has inked a four-year products that carry them. senior partner Philippe Franchet, re- This will be the first such event for license with Walt and Brown sa for the The private equity fund backed by ferring to Cellularline, which is ex- the italian fashion company, which is production and distribution of a men’s lvMH Moët Hennessy louis vuitton pected to generate revenues of 140 mil- investing in countries that are growing sportswear and beachwear line called has acquired a 53 percent majority lion euros, or $182 million at current the most and showing the biggest poten- Blumarine sport. The collection will stake in Cellularline, an italian com- exchange, in 2013. tial. Russia and asia account for 40 per- be presented to buyers in Milan on July pany that designs and distributes ac- “i am very satisfied about the op- cent of sales, said Gianguido Tarabini, 4 and will hit stores in December. in cessories for smartphones, tablets and portunities that this partnership will sole administrator of line with the women’s other mobile devices. bring to Cellularline, both in italy and Blumarine parent com- signature brand, the The agreement was signed by l abroad,” stated Cellularline chairman pany Blufin spa. lineup includes ani- Capital and Cellularline’s founding Piero Foglio. “We share a common “Russia and the for- malier prints juxta- Foglio and aleotti families, who still growth strategy which is very motivat- mer coun- posed with flower mo- retain a 40 percent stake in the com- ing, both for us and for Cellularline’s tries are markets that are tifs. swimsuits made pany. The remaining 7 percent was ac- management team, which is a guaran- showing great results and with the technical “fast quired by Milan-based merchant bank tee for our current success.” we are very satisfied,” dry” fabric with a vel- said Tarabini, attributing vet effect, printed polo the success of Blumarine shirts, T-shirts, beach in the area to a “real towels and printed Belk to Sponsor ‘Project Runway’ made-in-italy product shirts are among the and meticulous attention new pieces. keting campaign, “Modern. southern. to details.” Tarabini also separately, Bluma- By DaviD MOiN style.” For that design challenge, John pointed to the Far east rine is looking back to Thomas, Belk’s executive vice presi- as a “very strong mar- its ad campaigns of the Belk iNC., the regional department dent of private brands, will be a guest ket,” and to expansion past. For fall, the com- store chain in the south, is seeking na- judge on the show. The winner will plans in Japan. at the pany will unveil its new tional exposure by sponsoring the 12th have the opportunity to design and sell end of December, Blufin An ad from ads featuring Candice season of “Project Runway.” an exclusive line at Belk. spa signed an agreement Blumarine. swanepoel and pho- “‘Project Runway’ will provide us “We’re very pleased to have Belk as with Woollen Co. ltd.- tographed by Camilla the perfect opportunity to extend the our retail partner. The way they care- Mitsubishi Corporation of blumarine Camilla akrans/Courtesy Photo by akrans. Tarabini’s Belk brand,” said Belk president and fully curate their collection is a perfect Fashion Co. ltd. for the distribution in mother, designer anna Molinari, said she chief merchandising officer kathryn fit for the show, not only for our design- Japan of Blumarine and younger brand wanted to return to the “iconic images Bufano. “as the authority on lifestyle ers and the models on the runway but Blugirl starting with the fall season. The and atmospheres of the old Blumarine and fashion in the south, we are look- also for our fashion-conscious view- agreement succeeds a previous one with campaigns by albert Watson and Helmut ing forward to adding our perspective ers at home,” said Meryl Poster, ex- Bluebell. Newton to create new, intense, extremely to the show.” ecutive producer of “Project Runway” “China is a great market, but we must feminine and sensual images, while main- Belk operates 301 stores in 16 and president of television for The not delude ourselves thinking it will re- taining the heritage of the brand.” southern states, though the company Weinstein Co., which produces the re- place the rest of the world,” remarked The company is family-owned, and actually sells to consumers in every ality show hosted by Heidi klum. Tarabini. Tarabini said there are no plans to pub- state through Belk.com. Twenty percent During the “Project Runway” season, in 2012, the company posted retail licly list it or relinquish control. of Belk’s e-commerce is from outside belk.com/projectrunway will have infor- the brick-and-mortar footprint. The re- mation about the accessories seen on the tailer already gets some national expo- show, as well as video clips and featured sure when esPN broadcasts the annual products based on the winning designs. Belk Bowl, and the company does con- Belk will also sponsor Facebook-based duct some national advertising. sweepstakes. entrants will be eligible to The 12th season of “Project win either a selection from the accesso- Runway” begins in september and is ries wall or a trip to New York to see a taping episodes. as part of the deal, taping of “Project Runway.” The sweep- Belk pulled together an accessory wall stakes opens aug. 8 at facebook.com/belk For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. with more than 200 looks that will be and ends midnight Oct. 25. incorporated into the contestants’ run- Previously, lord & Taylor was the way looks during the season. retail sponsor. “We had a great couple in addition, Belk will challenge the of seasons with them. We’re focused on Spaces designer contestants to create a collec- other initiatives for fall,” said a lord & tion inspired by Belk’s lifestyle mar- Taylor spokesman. COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE

New York Embroidery Studio New Wave to Distribute Craft Products Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking novelty embellishments NYC, China & India 212-971-9101 [email protected] THe NeW Wave Group aB’s U.s. subsid- valkenburg, the founder of Craft’s distri- SALESPERSON iary has acquired karhu North america’s bution in North america, continues in his Better Sweater Co, is looking for in Showrooms & Lofts PATTERNS, SAMPLES, house salesperson with existing cli- business to distribute Craft products. current role. The company will still be run BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS PRODUCTIONS ents, majors and specialty stores,with Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Full service shop to the trade. at least 5 years experience. Resume: karhu North america has been from its headquarters in Beverly, Mass. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 [email protected] selling Craft products in the U.s. and set up as an asset acquisition, the Canada since 1999. as part of the initial purchase amounts to $3 million deal, New Wave Usa acquired that with an additional contingent price part of karhu’s business that relates based on business results over the next to distribution of Craft products as five years. The contingent price cannot well as inventory, certain intellectual exceed $4.75 million, according to a property and contract rights. The ac- company spokeswoman. quired business is being managed by The New Wave Group, a $640 mil- the newly formed Craft sportswear lion sweden-based company, is eager North america llC, an indirect wholly to develop its presence in the North (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] owned subsidiary of New Wave Usa. american market. karhu chief executive officer Huub  —RosemaRyFeitelbeRg

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