Vive Le Smoking

GROWING JUMPING PEONIES IN ATHLETA FORMS ITS BLOGGER RACHEL PARCELL OF FIRST DESIGNER PINK PEONIES LAUNCHES HER WEARABLES ON SHOW COLLABORATION, OWN FASHION PRODUCTS: A THE LATEST IN WEARABLE TECH IS ON EXHIBIT AT THE WITH DEREK LAM’S 10 JEWELRY COLLECTION. PAGE 9 BROOKLYN FASHION + DESIGN ACCELERATOR. PAGE 3 CROSBY. PAGE 2

SHAREHOLDERS CASH OUT Tory’s Growing Value: Firm Now Worth $3.5B

By EVAN CLARK

Tory Burch’s stock is on the rise. A recent round of share swaps let some of the private fashion company’s early investors cash out with very healthy returns and valued the fi rm at $3.5 billion — an increase of about $1.25 billion over two MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY years ago, according to sources. WWD That’s a lot of ballerina fl ats. And another sign that the fi rm is ready for primetime and perhaps closer to an initial public offering, even though co-chief executive offi cers Tory Burch and Roger Farah have both declared their affection for operating away from the PARIS klieg lights of Wall Street. Sources said a total of $200 million worth of the company’s shares traded hands in the recent stock COUTURE swap, with its largest investors buying out people who SPRING 2015 held smaller stakes. A spokeswoman for the company declined to comment. Vive Longtime shareholders Access Industries and Tresalia Capital as well as BDT Capital Partners and General Atlantic, which bought in late in 2012, are all believed to have kept or raised their stakes. The last time the company raised money was in late Le Smoking 2012 in a deal that ended in a messy legal battle between Burch and her ex-husband Christopher Burch PARIS — Modern variations on Le Smoking over the now-defunct C. Wonder. Prior to the sale, each added a seductive edge to spring couture of the Burches owned 28 percent of the company. Although Christopher Burch held onto some collections, offering a sleek, tailored shares after that deal, it’s not clear whether or not he contrast to the bounty of floral looks. still has stake in the fi rm and he declined to comment Here, Giambattista Valli’s interpretation for this article through a spokeswoman. The 2012 stock sale brought BDT and General sways mildly Goth, his simple cropped Atlantic on board and, according to numerous sources, jacket topping languid trousers and valued the company at about $2.25 billion. One fi nancial a transparent overskirt with a satin source said that at the time, that amounted to roughly 15-times the company’s earnings before interest, taxes, waistband. For more, see pages 4 and 5. depreciation and amortization of $150 million. So the company’s value appreciated a total of 56 SEE PAGE 3 Texas Retail Thrives Despite Oil’s Decline

By HOLLY HABER

DALLAS — Oil prices have dipped below $50 a barrel, but retailers aren’t panicking in Texas — at least not yet. High-end merchants said the rich are still rich, even if their net worths and royalty checks have been slashed in half. And economists noted that middle and mass merchants stand to proﬁ t from the decrease in gas prices. For every penny decrease for a gallon of gas, $1 billion in savings is injected into the national economy, according to the Automobile Association of America. “I feel like so far it’s been a bit of a nonissue,” said Brian Bolke, president and cofounder of Forty Five Ten in Dallas. “People who really are invested in that market know that it’s pretty temporary, so I feel they aren’t overreacting to it. There’s a point where it could change.” Still, while the mood isn’t one of doom and gloom, the decline in oil prices will have an impact. Dallas Fed economists expect job growth in the state will slow to between 2 percent and 2.5 percent this year from 3.6 percent in 2014. That translates to about 140,000 fewer new jobs than were created last year. That forecast is down 0.5 percent from what the Dallas Fed estimated in mid-December, as oil prices have continued to fall since then. “We are going to lose a lot of white-collar jobs — en- gineering, legal, personnel services, accounting, con- sulting and other professions that support the energy companies,” said Bill Gilmer, director of the Institute for Regional Forecasting at C. T. Bauer College of PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015

Athleta Links With Derek Lam THE BRIEFING BOX

By JESSICA IREDALE IN TODAY’S WWD A sketch from the Athleta, ATHLETA IS AIMING to boost its fashion cred with 10-Crosby its fi rst designer collaboration. The Gap Inc.-owned collaboration. company is partnering with Derek Lam 10 Crosby, Lindsey Wixson Lam’s contemporary collection, for a line that seeks from Sidaction to capitalize on the “ath-leisure” lifestyle phenom- gala. For more, enon. It will launch in Athleta stores and Lam’s 10 see page 10 Crosby Store in New York in September. and WWD.com. “We’ve been following how 10 Crosby developed, and Derek’’ was interested in experimenting with athletic wear,” said Nancy Green, president of Athleta, noting that Intermix founder Khajak Keledjian, who sold his company to Gap in 2012, made the introduction between Lam and Athleta. Asked why Athleta was interested in associating with a designer, Green said, “It’s exciting to have a designer collaboration when it’s the right one. We don’t believe we have to have one every season, but if the right opportunity to partner comes up, it’s great. It complements our collection and gives a PHOTO BY STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE PHOTO BY wider variety to our customer.” For his part, Lam said interest in getting into the athletic arena, whether through a partnership A recent round of share swaps let some of Tory Burch’s early or adding it to 10 Crosby, was piqued about six investors cash out with very healthy returns and valued the fi rm at $3.5 billion. PAGE 1 purely performance-driven range. “I kept questioning I kept questioning what what seemed gratuitous. Like, you don’t need another Oil prices have dipped below $50 a barrel, and while the sports brand, so how do I make the pieces work easily mood isn’t one of doom and gloom in Texas, the decline in into her everyday wardrobe?” Lam said. There’s a two- prices will have an impact. PAGE 1 seemed gratuitous. Like, you in-one sweatshirt-shirt combination, washable leather pieces, a cotton poplin shirt, technical denim, leggings Hexoskin, an open data smart-shirt, is just one of the and a bra top, which he said was the most tradition- don’t need another sports garments featured in “Cloud Couture: The Intimate Connections ally athletic piece, even though most of the pieces use technical fabrics. “We really challenged them on, and Between Fashion and Technology,” opening Tuesday. PAGE 3 brand, so how do I make the they challenged us too on, bringing in leather and fab- rications that you would think are more sportswear- Mort Gordon, who pivoted from early work as an editor and pieces work easily into her oriented versus athletic wear,” Lam said. Prices range publisher at Fairchild Publications to a long career as a licensing from $58 for a tank top up to $388 for a leather jacket executive, died Friday in Boca Raton, Fla., at age 87. PAGE 9 everyday wardrobe? and are slightly higher than current Athleta items. Athleta has been on the expansion track, taking Carroll Petrie, known for her cool beauty, understated style — DEREK LAM steps to raise its fashion profi le by staging its fi rst and good works, died Jan. 22 at the age of 90. She is survived fashion show during New York Fashion Week last by her granddaughters and nieces. PAGE 9 months ago. “With all the awareness of how people September. There are 102 stores and talk of expanding are using that category of clothing in their every- internationally, though Green said there was “no news Shiseido said gains from the sale of the Decléor and Carita day lives, I thought it was an interesting proposi- to share.” Adding a designer-driven range to its assort- brands boosted its bottom line for the fi rst nine months of the tion and put feelers out there that I would love to ment is part of keeping up with a category rife with year as its operating profi t took a tumble. PAGE 9 do some kind of collaboration,” he said. He’s signed stylish competition, such as Nike and Adidas. “It’s a on with Athleta for three seasons. chance for us to put a stake in the ground and say the Thursday’s annual Sidaction gala, which raises money for Aesthetically, Lam said the collection is more fashion and style element to our assortment is equally AIDS research and patient care, drew a crowd of VIPs and subdued and urban than Athleta’s typically colorful, important to the performance element,” Green said. industry faces on the last day of Paris Couture Week. PAGE 10

Claudia Schiffer and Tse creative director Tina Lutz met up in London last week to put the fi nishing touches on their fi rst ’’ capsule collection. PAGE 11 Myanmar Establishes Code of Conduct Young workers should be kept off night shifts, Diane von Furstenberg’s woman is always on the go, literally. By TIM MCLAUGHLIN according to the code, and away from potentially Her spring campaign features Daria Werbowy making her way dangerous environments, such as working with fab- through a New York airport terminal. PAGE 11 YANGON, Myanmar — Myanmar has introduced its ric-cutting machines or hazardous chemicals. first code of conduct for the country’s apparel in- The code also urges the enforcement of the 44- Fashion brands are keeping it simple with hashtags. dustry as the sector looks to improve working con- hour work week that is stipulated under Myanmar’s According to digital analytics fi rm Stylophane, #fashion was the ditions and boost exports to the European Union national labor laws. The country’s legal framework most widely used hashtag by brands in December. PAGE 11 and United States. does allow for overtime work with permission from The Myanmar Garment Manufacturers Association labor authorities, but the code says factory owners said implementing the code of conduct, which was set should strive to reduce working hours per week to ON WWD.COM to be formally unveiled on Sunday, is an important a maximum of 60, a number recommended by the step in bringing the country’s apparel manufacturing U.N.’s International Labor Organization. EYE SIDACTION: Thursday’s annual Sidaction gala drew factories in line with the demands of Western buyers. The MGMA said it hopes the code will help the a crowd of VIPs and industry faces on the last day of “Factories adhering to the industry become known “inter- Paris Couture Week. For more, see WWD.com. full MGMA Code of Conduct will nationally for safe and ethical open themselves up to the mas- garment production” as it eyes sive infl ux of international or- greater access to Western markets ders coming from Europe and since the easing of sanctions by FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA the United States who demand the EU and U.S. starting in 2012. @ WWD.com/social socially responsible manufactur- $20M Annual apparel exports to the ing practices from their produc- ESTIMATED MYANMAR APPAREL U.S. have climbed from zero in EXPORTS TO THE U.S. IN 2014. TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS ers,” the group said. 2012 to an estimated $20 million [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. The MGMA, which repre- in 2014, according to MGMA fi g- WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. sents around 300 member com- ures. But exports to the U.S. are VOLUME 209, NO. 21. MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published da² y (except Saturdays, panies, drafted the code with the help of offi cials still a “minuscule amount” compared with what they Sundays and holidays, with one additÑ nal issue in January, June, August, September, October, November and December, from the EU-funded SMART Myanmar program. once were, the MGMA said. In 2002, prior to the lev- and two additÑ nal issues in Apr² and three additÑ nal issues in February) by Fairch² d Media, LLC, which is a divisÑ n of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Launched in 2013, SMART works with the garment eling of sanctions against Myanmar, garment exports PerÑ dicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and at additÑ nal ma² ing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian industry to improve production practices. to the U.S. accounted for more than 20 percent of the addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-H² l, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE The 11-point code of conduct focuses primarily country’s entire national export revenue. INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-ma² customer service at on labor rights and working conditions, two areas Exports to the EU are signifi cantly higher, esti- wwdPrint@cdsfulf² lment.com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, optÑ n 7. Subscribers: If the that are of concern to companies looking to the mated at $400 million last year, more than double Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligatÑ n unless we receive a corrected address Myanmar market where labor standards remain 2013 fi gures. Around a dozen factories in Myanmar within one year. If during your subscriptÑ n term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscriptÑ n, let us know. You w² l receive a full refund on all unma² ed issues. First copy of new subscriptÑ n low and a reputational risk of investing in the for- produce primarily for the EU. Japan and Korea are w² l be ma² ed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business and productÑ n correspondence to mer military junta remains high. the two biggest export markets for Myanmar-made WWD, 475 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissÑ ns requests, please call 212-630-5656, or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-ma² [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse The voluntary code calls for factory owners to garments, but the MGMA has forecast that exports to permissÑ ns, please e-ma² [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. adhere to a minimum working age of 15 and for the EU will overtake these two countries this year. To subscribe to other Fairch² d Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptÑ ns. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED workers’ ages to be confi rmed prior to them begin- In June, Gap Inc. revealed plans to produce ap- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND ning work. Despite the country’s transition to a parel at two factories in Myanmar, making it the TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, nominally civilian government in 2011, the use of fi rst American retailer of note to enter the market OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY child labor is a persistent problem in Myanmar. since the U.S. lifted sanctions. A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015 3 WWD.COM Tory Burch Firm Valued at $3.5B {Continued from page one} things that we see we want to do percent over 2013 and 2014 — that’s bet- and really have control.” ter than rival Michael Kors Holdings Roger Farah For his part, Farah said: “Being Ltd., which fared on the public market and Tory Burch private is very attractive to me. I with a 47 percent stock gain, but short did not want to be in a public com- of Kate Spade & Co.’s 157 percent jump. pany. I think this company has the Coach Inc., which also plays in the acces- ability to look long-term in how sibly priced handbag space, saw its stock they build the brand globally fall 28 percent over the two years. and how they make decisions. Those companies all garner higher They’re extraordinarily well- valuations than Tory Burch, but their fi nanced and have tremendous stocks are also constantly trading on cash fl ows that allow reinvest- the open market and reacting to the lat- ments and good ideas. As a pri- est and variable winds of the fi nancial vate company, really rallying markets. (Kors has a market capitaliza- around Tory’s vision, there’s tion of $14.9 billion, while Coach weighs a lot we can accomplish.” in at $10.7 billion and Kate Spade at $4 While adopting a slow- billion). In the case of the Burch share and-steady strategy, the Burch sales, market forces are also at work and business has become more the price refl ects the belief on the part aggressive about expansion of larger shareholders that the company in the last 18 months. Beauty will keep growing and the willingness of products were added in 2013 smaller ones to cash out. and watches came last year. The share sales at Burch do not have But as measured as Burch any impact on control of the fi rm or op- has been, her investors are not erations. But the company is said to have necessarily as patient, even though had a good holiday season and it’s useful they are sitting on signifi cant gains. to check the market and reset the com- Some of the company’s back- pany’s value from time to time since pri- ers are believed to be angling for vate stock sales set a baseline should the A look an IPO this year or next, while company take the plunge for an IPO. from others are willing to wait until The company seems to be picking up pre-fall. Tory Burch’s 2017 or 2018.

momentum, particularly with the arrival GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY Buddy watch. The company, which was of Farah. founded in 2004, is said to have Hiring the former president and chief the Vernon Co. consultancy. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. ceo Lee Scott is also surpassed $1 billion in retail sales last operating offi cer at Ralph Lauren Corp. “If any apparel brand would have a on the company’s board. summer and has 2,500 employees and was seen as a coup for Burch. Farah is higher valuation it would be Tory Burch,” Those and other indications that the more than 3,000 points of distribution in widely regarded as one of the best ceo’s Vernon said. “They’re still in growth mode, business is starting to expand made it a more than 50 countries. Handbags and in the fashion world and his arrival cast and there’s still tremendous value to cre- good time for some early friends and fam- footwear account for about 80 percent of Burch’s already well-regarded business ate. It would not surprise me if there were ily to sell — particularly given how much the business. And 75 percent of revenues in a new light for investors. some friends and family, early investors Burch has soft-pedaled the prospect of an come from the U.S. That translates to rel- “There are not a lot of brands today who would like to transact out considering IPO in the near future. atively fat profi t margins for fashion and that have the momentum that Tory Burch the value that’s been created from the fi rst “We enjoy being a private company,” room to grow abroad. does and now they have with Roger couple years to today.” Burch told WWD when Farah was hired in It’s a story that big-money investors Farah, I think, exceptional leadership,” Farah isn’t the only sign that Tory September. “I think having someone like are going to want to sell on Wall Street said Kim Vernon, president and ceo of Burch continues to think big. Former Roger come on board really helps us to do sooner or later.

Another area will high- light DryDye, a dyeing pro- Exhibition Explores Fashion’s 3-D Frontier cess that relies on highly compressed supercritical “Cloud Couture: The Intimate tion. If you’re excluding those dimensional ways and in carbon dioxide to dis- By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Connections Between Fashion two things in your design work, the shopping experience.” tribute the dye through and Technology,” an exhibition as well as in your thinking, your “Cloud Couture” visitors fi ber. Noting that the NEW YORK — The idea of a which opens Tuesday. The hands- strategy and the conversation will get a sense of that by textile industry gen- sports fan sitting in a bar watch- on, interactive exhibition will be you’re having as a creative per- using a 3-D scanning sta- erates 20 percent of ing a game, wearing a smart-shirt a fi rst for the Brooklyn Fashion son, then you’re just missing the tion to map their bodies, the world’s indus- that simulates just how fast his + Design Accelerator (BF+DA), point of the century.” and then they can digitally trial pollution, John favorite player’s heart is beat- Pratt Institute’s expansive digi- Johnson, who along with drape fabric on their avatar said the DryDye ing and how heavily that com- tally minded incubator. The show Rebeccah Pailes-Friedman and to create their own design. process uses no petitor is breathing may sound explores how technology is driv- Henry Yoo curated the show, They can also check out water, 50 percent like something straight out of ing brand innovation and rede- said, “Twenty years from now, Sensoree’s GER (Galvanic less energy and 50 “Jupiter Ascending.” But that refi ning clothing through wearable you won’t even think about how Extimacy Responder) percent fewer chemi- ality is increasingly in reach. technology meant to enhance your clothing is wired and is con- Mood Sweater, which has cals. Adidas is among The aforementioned wear- health care, beauty, safety and nected to the Internet. Brands a bowl-shaped collar with the companies using able-technology-enhanced Alert connectedness. will be able to track where you LED lights that change DryDye. Shirt, and Hexoskin, an open During a preview Thursday, are and see who you’re with. You color based on instant Designer Francis data smart-shirt that allows re- BF+DA executive director know how Google just knows what biofeedback from the gar- Bitonti presents a dif- al-time remote health monitor- Debera Johnson said, “When you want? You Google something ment’s sensors. Designer ferent idea with his ing on smartphones and tablets I think about the 21st-century and you get 15 different answers Billie Whitehouse’s Adobe Molecule Show. using Bluetooth, are just two conversation, it includes sus- about the things you are starting Navigate jacket uses haptic His design uses an algo- of the step-into-the-future gar- tainability and technology. We to think about. That’s going to vibrations to guide the wear- rithm-generated compu- ments that will be on view in want to ramp up that conversa- happen in more three- er along a predefi ned course. tational model that was The frequency and intensity developed with Adobe soft- of the instructions — wheth- ware. Then the fi le is sent er that be “a soft left, merge to a Stratasys 3-D printer left or hard left” — will that built the shoes, layer by vary depending on body layer and pixel by pixel. placement and intensity, Given the breadth of Johnson said. Here and advancements, Johnson More intriguing is the left: NASA- said, “I hope people will assortment of wearables inspired take away an understand- with outboard power wearables. ing of the multiple ways and wireless communi- technology is fi tting in a cation prototypes that were very personal kind of relation- developed for NASA to try to ship with clothing and your facilitate tasks during space body and what you’re doing.” flights. Pailes-Friedman, The show closes Feb. 12 who led two NASA-related with a panel about how wear- projects that are featured, able technology is reshap- said having reconfi gurable ing our relationship with the swatches (akin to how a Boy Internet, brands and personal Scout wears badges) essentially privacy. The panel will in- allows the astronaut to wear his clude Makerbot’s Bre Pettis, Laser-cut, 3-D and LED-laden designs on display in “Cloud Couture.” or her tools to make them easier Whitehouse, Bitoni and Fast

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY to reach, to test and wash. Co.’s Leah Hunter. 4 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015

PARIS Alexandre Jean Paul Gaultier Atelier Versace Vauthier COUTURE SPRING 2015

Schiaparelli

Vive Le Smoking LONG OR SHORT, WITH LAPELS OR WITHOUT, AND TRANSFORMED INTO JUMPSUITS AND DRESSES, HEAD-TURNING, TUXEDO- INSPIRED LOOKS EMERGED AS A SOPHISTICATED EVENING OPTION ON SPRING RUNWAYS. 4 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015 5 WWD.COM PARIS Alexandre Jean Paul Gaultier Atelier Versace Armani Privé Bouchra Jarrar Yiqing Yin Vauthier COUTURE SPRING 2015

Schiaparelli Stéphane Rolland Vive Le Smoking LONG OR SHORT, WITH LAPELS OR WITHOUT, AND TRANSFORMED INTO JUMPSUITS AND DRESSES, HEAD-TURNING, TUXEDO- INSPIRED LOOKS EMERGED AS A SOPHISTICATED EVENING OPTION ON SPRING RUNWAYS.

FOR MORE, SEE WWD.com/ runway. VAUTHIER PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE; ALL OTHERS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE; ALL OTHERS BY PHOTO BY VAUTHIER 6 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015 WWD.COM

Zuhair Murad Yiqing Yin Loris Azzaro

Ulyana Sergeenko

Zuhair Murad: Guests making their way close, but the young couturier also noted was striving toward a new body-centric Ralph & to the Zuhair Murad couture show had that it didn’t feel right to host a runway simplicity. With growing responsibilities, Russo to ditch their vehicles a block from the show while Russia, her home country, including her ready-to-wear venue and negotiate a crowd of railway was in economic turmoil. “Two-thousand line and her collections for FOR MORE, SEE workers, who had gathered nearby to fourteen was such a good year for us. Leonard, Yin no doubt has less protest against a reform of their sector. We were so proud, and then, at the end time to experiment, and early WWD.com/ The scene made for a surreal prelude to of the year, half of [our revenue] was fans may mourn the loss of the runway. Murad’s aquatic-themed display, which gone. I still don’t understand why,” she painstaking surface details that drew Rose McGowan and a gaggle of said, venting her frustration over the long characterized her designs. French starlets to the basement of the depreciation of the ruble. But bringing her knack for relaxed Palais de Tokyo art museum. Her spring couture collection was tailoring and fl awless draping to a wider The opening lineup included a a celebration of Caucasian folklore. audience could deliver a much-needed translucent sheath dress dripping with Fantasy embroideries on bell-shaped breath of fresh air to the step-and-repeat. A crystals, sequins and raindrop-sized silk gowns and corset dresses were as word of advice: Steer clear of the feather- cabochons. A Vegas showgirl bodysuit rich as the collagelike sets of Georgian light white silk dress, which resulted in an trimmed with a bouncing bead fringe fi lm director Sergei Parajanov. unfortunate nip slip. — J.D. brought to mind Jennifer Lopez, Sergeenko said it took two months to who regularly wears the Lebanese apply the little beads to a lean navy- Loris Azzaro: “Welcome to the desert,” couturier’s designs — most recently to blue dress with a bolerolike top, which Alvaro Castejón, one half of the design the Golden Globes. harked back to a 19th-century painting. duo behind Loris Azzaro, said backstage Silver sequins sparkled like light on The collection was indefi nably retro, before the show. A dry terrain — with its water on a pale blue strapless gown with but its architectural silhouettes kept beige and midnight-blue hues — served a Watteau train, while crystals it modern. In one instance, as inspiration for the label’s spring drifted in clusters on a long Sergeenko applied the shape couture collection, which featured a silk tulle dress with short of Russian Orthodox domed series of novel techniques. Castejón and sleeves. Working a watery cathedrals to a long satin co-creative director Arnaud Maillard palette ranging from pastel PARIS cape in baby pink, which experimented with silicon appliqués to pink and yellow to silver she matched with a sober mimic desert flowers and even shoved a and bronze, Murad veered bustier dress. No doubt: It dress in the oven: “It came out burnt — between showmanship COUTURE would take a gutsy lady to three times,” Maillard said of a lean tulle and restraint. SPRING 2015 take it out for a walk. gown adorned with golden leaves that Among the false notes — PAULINA SZMYDKE meandered around the model’s body. was a pink ball gown that Elsewhere, the house’s chain motif paired a barely there sleeveless Yiqing Yin: Taking place in the was repurposed on ethnic tops and bodice with a skirt made of yards middle of awards season, Paris scarves or as ornamental seams that of tulle that shimmered like mother- Couture Week is always a trove of red- ran down luscious djellaba-shaped of-pearl. His quieter looks were among carpet options. What may come as a robes. A sense of lightness and airiness GIANNONI GIOVANNI GOIZÉ; ALL OTHERS BY FRANÇOIS PHOTO BY SERGEENKO the fi nest — including a sheer column surprise is that Yiqing Yin is now vying prevailed, meaning that some of the looks dress in vintage-feel bronze lace with a for a slice of that business. featuring transparencies and cutouts craft, which adds some distinction to waterfall cape. And as the bride emerged, The designer is known for intricately were unnecessarily revealing. The best Ralph’s demure, retro shapes. Stiff Murad’s sleek catwalk refl ected her pleated creations like the pale mint gown exits relied on the charms of their lavish cocktail dresses sprouted multiple mirror image as clearly as a lake. Audrey Tautou wore to host the opening volumes, such as starkly draped Berber peplums, arch Watteau backs or whorled — JOELLE DIDERICH ceremony of the Cannes Film Festival pants with a chain scarf-top, covered by a volumes around the hips. A dramatic in 2013. The lineup she showed at the long cape. — P.S. silk cape drifted from a simple, off-the- Ulyana Sergeenko: Ulyana Sergeenko Pavillon Cambon was her most accessible shoulder lace column. welcomed guests to her couture to date, with gowns that twisted around Ralph & Russo: Like so many couturiers While some exits winked to Dolce & collection with a Georgian banquet. the body to deceptively simple effect. this season, Tamara Ralph decided to Gabbana and John Galliano-era Dior, Pomegranates, fi gs, cheese, wine or tea As evening dresses go, these were still say it with fl owers, seeding her sculpted what registered was the glamour of Old from a Russian samovar — and the famous on the edgy side. A bolt of gray fl annel Fifties party dresses and fi lmy gowns Hollywood — the kind projected by Dita khachapuri, a sort of Georgian cheese was knotted into a graceful bustier dress, with glossy embroideries of vines and Von Teese, who took her seat in a curvy focaccia — were served at a little suite at while a sapphire silk gown coiled around a blooms, or full-on 3-D petals and other red cocktail suit while the show was the Bristol laid out with colorful Russian diamanté belt-cum-halter strap. The tribal- glittery encrustations. The bride lurched already underway. Lately, the label has rugs that the designer had brought from print sheer black catsuit was strictly for forward to propel her weighty train been a magnet for the likes of Angelina her own home. “I wanted this to feel like attention-seekers, though celebrities seeking laden with pearls, crystals and metallic Jolie, Beyoncé and Eva Longoria, the a Georgian house, very personal and to foil paparazzi fl ashes might opt for a threads. Four burly attendants helped kind of exposure Ralph and her partner intimate,” Sergeenko explained. glossy blazer made with refl ective threads. her swivel and reverse down the catwalk. Michael Russo must surely lap up as they The banquet gave everyone the “This collection is a turning point,” This British couture house has little strive to become a major luxury house. chance to view her craftsmanship up the show notes read, noting that Yin to prove in terms of fi nesse and high — MILES SOCHA The 2nd Clio Image Awards Deadline Extension: February 27th. Recognizing the most creative work in fashion, beauty, and retail advertising. From print to PR, mobile to experiential, it’s all about the image. Entries open now at Clioimage.com. For more information call 212.683.4300 in pa r tnership with

8 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015

Oil Prices Down, but Texas Retail Holding On {Continued from page one} “We haven’t seen anything of their pocketbooks, but they Business at the University of High-end retailer Stanley Korshak in Dallas. showing up yet that would still have money. Our customer Houston. “They will all see some say, ‘Uh oh, head for cover,’ ” is savvy and educated and is al- signifi cant job cuts. There is no said Crawford Brock,’’ owner of ways going to be working on her question about that.” Stanley Korshak designer store wardrobe. That’s just the energy Gilmer expects the Houston and Shak men’s and women’s she exudes.” MSA will gain about 40,000 and contemporary boutiques. John Maguire, dress buyer at jobs this year compared with “Men’s, our usual indicator, was Tootsies, said it’s too early to tell. 100,000-plus in each of the past up [comparable] double digits “I don’t think it’s hurt us yet three years. But the bulk will in December.” but maybe it will if it continues,” be blue-collar construction Brock is sticking to his plan for he said. “The few oil people I’ve jobs, whereas during the boom a mid-single-digit gain at Korshak spoken to say they prepare for years, about half were high- and low-double-digit growth in the this kind of thing because it hap- paying positions in oil. The contemporary stores. pens every so often.” average mining job in Houston Stephen Summers, co-owner Retail development has paid $185,000 in 2013, accord- of Highland Park Village shop- been brisk. The biggest project ing to the Quarterly Census of ping center, said December is OliverMcMillan’s River Oaks Employment and Wages. numbers were coming in strong, District, a luxury mixed-use cen- The tumbling price of oil has reduced the rig count, es- pecially in Western Texas, and In 2009, when the economy was spurred major oil companies to announce capital spending cuts. “The affl uent side of town is getting crushed, we were down 3 really [going to] get hit in this downturn in the short term,” percent. Where there is perceived Gilmer predicted. “It will be a tougher time in retail just be- value, people still purchase. cause of the nature of the job growth that we’re going to see.” — STEPHEN SUMMERS, HIGHLAND PARK VILLAGE He forecast Houston’s retail tax revenues will grow in the low single digits this year compared but people whose incomes are ter rising on 15 acres near the with 7.1 percent in 2013 and an dependent upon drilling or oil Galleria. It’s set to open this fall estimated 6 percent in 2014. and gas are “pretty stressed.” with 252,000 square feet of re- “I see a negative number any- “It’s probably not great for tail, including a 10,000-square- where in the outlook assuming my clientele, but it remains to foot Hermès, a 9,000-square foot that oil recovers sometime in be seen,” Summers said. “The Dior and such designer name- the middle of next year, back up luxury realm doesn’t mirror plates as Tom Ford, Kiton, Akris to $75, $80 [a barrel],” he added. the economy as much as stan- and Giuseppe Zanotti. Texas’ economy is diversi- dard retail, the Wal-Marts of “Houston is a diverse, dy- fi ed enough that it won’t plunge the world. In 2009, when the namic, sophisticated market, into recession as it did in the economy was getting crushed, and we continue to be enthu- Eighties, during the last signifi - we were down 3 percent. Where siastic about it’’ as we prepare cant oil-price decline, said Bud there is perceived value, people to open River Oaks District in Weinstein, an economist and as- still purchase.” September of 2015,” comment- sociate director of the Maguire the drop in royalties and divi- ties that have benefi ted from Retailers in Houston also said ed Jeff Zeigler, senior manag- Energy Institute at Southern dends for people invested in oil the Eagle Ford Shale, such it remains business as usual, ing director of retail services at Methodist University. and gas, he pointed out. as Corpus Christi and San even though oil prices began OliverMcMillan. “We’ve taken “It depends how low pric- “We’ll have a better Antonio, he predicted. slipping meaningfully in October. care to plan for a beautiful, au- es fall and how long they stay sense six months from now,” Furloughed roughnecks “We’ve had an excellent thentic experience…one that down,” he said. “It certainly isn’t Weinstein added. will fi nd plenty of opportuni- Christmas season — the largest will evolve and continue to be good for the Texas economy.” The hardest-hit cities will ty in construction, said Mike gains in the store in years, es- relevant for many generations, The benefits of low gaso- include the West Texas oil capi- Geisler, managing partner pecially in men’s,” said Stephen much as you fi nd in other great line prices have to be weighed tals of Midland and Odessa, at Venture Commercial Real Skoda, director of women’s at up- cities throughout the world.” against high-wage job losses and plus South Texas communi- Estate in Dallas. scale M Penner. “January is sales The Galleria, the grand- “Construction labor has gone time, and we are moving it. We’ve daddy of Houston retail that up so much because we can’t heard business overall is good.” racks up more than $1.25 bil- A rendering of River Oaks fi nd enough workers,” Geisler District, which will open in said. “With less drilling, those Houston later this year. folks will probably migrate back into construction work, and builders told me they are already seeing that happen.” As for Houston, Gilmer said, “In the short run, there is a lot of built-up momentum in Houston.” Low natural gas prices since 2011 have fueled “the biggest construction boom that the Gulf Coast has ever seen,” he noted. Seven refi neries that convert gas to petrochemicals are being built in the region, including fi ve valued at $5 billion. That growth will enable Dresses on display at Tootsies. Houston to avoid recession, Gilmer said. The outlook for the Dallas- Calli Saitowitz, owner of lion in sales, is relocating Saks Dior, Cartier and Hermès are expected Fort Worth metro area is BB1 Classic in Houston and a into a 198,000-square-foot fl ag- to open in the complex. equally sanguine, given its 49-year veteran of fashion re- ship by spring 2016 and creat- economic diversity. tailing, said she may adjust her ing a luxury wing in the former The area has seen 106 cor- buy to less expensive items, but Saks space. Nordstrom added porate relocations or expan- she doesn’t think her business a fourth full-line store in the sions since 2010, according will be rocked. Specializing area last September at The to research by CBRE. Within in European labels such as Woodlands Mall. weeks, State Farm Insurance Beatrice B, Isabel de Pedro and Angie Freed, general man- plans to begin moving the fi rst of Luisa Cerano, BB1 just had its ager of Galleria Dallas, expects 8,000 employees into a $1.5 bil- best December ever with a 25 cutbacks by people dependent lion mixed-use campus under percent increase, she noted. on oil for employment or in- construction on 186 acres in “Too much else is going on vestment. But she also sees a Richardson. Toyota North [in Houston], and we have a salutary effect. America is gradually relocating diverse customer,” Saitowitz “We just had a fabulous workers here as it erects a cor- affi rmed. “Obviously, gas pric- December, up 16 percent in traf- porate headquarters in Plano es this low are not good for fi c,” she said. “I think that is that will receive its biggest wave Houston, and the wealthy will partly due to more discretionary of transplants in 2017. be in a little bit more control income for the middle class.” WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015 9 WWD.COM OBITUARIES Philanthropist Carroll Petrie own Carroll Petrie Foundation Dog Rescue Mort Gordon, 87 By LORNA KOSKI Project at the ASPCA. She also gave gener- in the newsroom, never backbiting or ously to her alma mater. Her fourth hus- By ARNOLD J. KARR and uptight, and he was always helpful CARROLL PETRIE, known for her cool band, meanwhile, was a real-life Daddy JEAN E. PALMIERI to young reporters,” noted Mary Lois beauty, understated style and good works, Warbucks, who often read about someone Adshead, who worked as a secretary died Jan. 22 at the age of 90. in need, swooped down and sent them MORT GORDON, who pivoted from and later reporter for Gordon and The fourth time was the charm for her money. He remembered 343 people in his early work as an editor and publisher Blueweiss. “He was very tuned into life, and her husband, Petrie Stores founder 120-page will. at Fairchild Publications to a long seriously interested in people and the and philanthropist Milton Petrie, whom “As a person, she was utterly charming career as a licensing executive, died industry we covered. He was just a very she married in 1978. Each had been mar- and fun,” said Aileen Mehle, who, under Friday in Boca Raton, Fla., at age 87. nice, dependable guy with a great per- ried three times before. Born in Greenville, the name Suzy, wrote a much-read gossip The cause was complications from a sonality and a tremendous zest for life.” S.C., to Helen and William McDaniel, column for decades, including at WWD stroke he suffered about two months ago, In a blog written as DNR prepared Carroll Petrie went to Converse College, and its then-sister publication W. Mehle according to his daughter, Jennifer Gross. to cease publication in 2008, Adshead then moved to New York and became a often chronicled the parties and charitable A native of Philadelphia, Gordon gradu- wrote, “Mort Gordon was tall, smart and model. Her first husband activities of Petrie, whom ated from Temple University sexy while Herb Blueweiss was Alfonso, the Marquis de she described as “one of with a B.S. in journalism. was short, balding, hyper Portago, whom she married my best friends,” adding, After service in the U.S. and sometimes enigmatic. when he was 20 and with “She went everywhere. She Navy during the Korean War, Herb liked to read and at- whom she had two children, was a great beauty and ex- he returned to Philadelphia tend the theater…and Mort, Andrea and the late Anthony tremely elegant. She had a and began his publish- a bachelor [at the time], was de Portago. Petrie spent very, very Southern accent. ing career as a reporter in content to attend industry most of the Fifties with de She had many friends. She Fairchild’s Philadelphia bu- functions and do as much Portago, known as Fons, a had a good sense of humor. reau. He was soon brought to skirt-chasing as time al- wealthy aristocrat, in Paris. She was a social hostess Fairchild’s headquarters in lowed. The two worked so He, his fellow driver and 10 and gave many parties. It New York, where he would well in tandem that they spectators died in a fi ery car was fun to be there.” progress through the edito- were referred to by the staff crash during an Italian car Petrie received a wide rial ranks of the company’s Mort as The Bobbsey Twins.” race in 1957. array of honors for her men’s wear newspaper, Gordon Sandy Josephson, who Her next two marriages charitable work, including

Daily News Record, and JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY was named editor of DNR ended in divorce. She met honorary doctorates from

eventually become its coedi- after Gordon became pub- Petrie, who was 30 years her THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY the New York Institute of tor, sharing management responsibilities lisher of Men’s Wear, remembered him as senior, in 1977, and married Carroll Petrie in 1989. Technology and Long Island with Herbert Blueweiss. Blueweiss later someone who rose above the pressures of him the next year. University. In 1987, she re- became editor, and subsequently publisher, the publishing and men’s wear businesses. When Milton Petrie died, in 1994, at the ceived a Spanish decoration, the Medal of of DNR, and Gordon editor of Fairchild’s “You never saw Mort get angry,” age of 92, he left his widow with the in- Honor of the Order of Isabel La Católica. Men’s Wear magazine. The extroverted Josephson said. “He kept things loose come from a trust fund, which spun off an She is survived by her granddaughters, Gordon became the publisher of Men’s and very social. He was outgoing but al- estimated $10 million a year, along with $5 Theodora Portago, Marquesa de Portago Wear several years later. ways conducted himself in a laid-back million in cash, two dwellings, including a and Carolina Portago, and her nieces, From Fairchild, Gordon moved directly way, with a true sense of joie de vivre.” Fifth Avenue apartment, and made her one Camille Manning and Carroll Wilson. into the fashion business as president of In a tribute on his Facebook page, of the trustees of his foundation, the Carroll Instead of flowers, donations may be Bill Kaiserman before joining Playboy Gerald Andersen, a former DNR fur- and Milton Petrie Foundation. The founda- sent to the ASPCA, Attn.: Gift Processing Enterprises in 1980 as senior vice president nishings editor who later headed the tion had an initial funding estimated by Center, In Memory of Mrs. Carroll Petrie, of licensing. He formed his own licensing Neckwear Association of America, com- The New York Times to be $300 million to 424 East 92nd Street, New York, New company, Mort Gordon Enterprises, in 1983, mented, “To a Jersey City kid new to $400 million, the bulk of it in Petrie Stores York 10128 or Converse College, Attn.: and continued to operate the business until the world of New York City, he was the stock. The couple’s wide-ranging philan- Petrie School of Music, In Memory of shortly before he died. epitome of suave and sophistication.” thropic activities included underwriting Mrs. Carroll Petrie, 580 East Main Street, He was active in several industry In addition to his daughter Jennifer, the Carroll and Milton Petrie European Spartanburg, SC 29302. Visitation will organizations, including the YMA, Gordon is survived by another daugh- Sculpture Garden at the Metropolitan be held on Tuesday, from 4 to 6 p.m. at which awarded him its AMY Award. ter, Heather Gordon, as well as three Museum of Art, and making major contri- the Frank E. Campbell Funeral Home at Marvin Lord, a former Oxford Industries grandchildren and his longtime part- butions to Beth Israel Medical Center, the Madison Avenue and 81st Street. A funer- executive and close friend of Gordon’s, said, ner, Nina Krevlin. His two marriages Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center, al will be held for family and close friends “He was always looking for the next deal. ended in divorce. the Museum of Modern Art and the Parrish on Wednesday at 10 a.m. at The Church of He loved to live — it’s a tough loss.” Gross said plans for a memorial service Art Museum. Petrie herself had a particular Saint Vincent Ferrer at Lexington Avenue “He kept a really nice atmosphere were still being formulated at press time. passion for animal charities and had her and 66th Street. Pink Peonies Blogger Unveiling Line Shiseido Profit Up 66.1% versary sale earlier this year, she drove more In the nine months under review, By RACHEL STRUGATZ than 10,000 sales to the retailer’s Web site in By KELLY WETHERILLE Shiseido’s domestic sales in Japan a matter of weeks. Over the summer, a $48 fell 2.4 percent to 265 billion yen, or BLOGGER RACHEL PARCELL of Pink tribal-printed cardigan from Sosie she wore TOKYO — Shiseido said extraor- $2.49 billion, which accounted for Peonies was getting so good at selling other in August sold out on the brand’s site at shop- dinary gains from the sale of the 47.7 percent of the company’s total people’s wares that she decided to make and sosie.com within hours. Decléor and Carita brands to sales. The company said sales suf- sell her own. Her conversation rates range from 3 to 12 L’Oréal SA boosted its bottom line fered on an increase in the country’s The Salt Lake City-based Parcell is ventur- percent, while the average is 1 percent, and she for the first nine months of the year consumption tax, which went into ing into retail, starting with a jewelry line that said clicks typically mirror the retail calendar, as its operating profit took a tumble effect in April. But the fi rm said its hits her site today . The eight-piece Pink Peonies with November and December being her highest on higher costs. Elixir and Maquillage brands, both Collection ranges from $45 for a marbled geo ring converting months. In 2013, her main revenue The company’s net profit for of which have been recently re- with a pavé border and a “scattered crystals” ring stream was through affi liate retail partners, but the three quarters ended Dec. 31 vamped, posted increases. to $110 for a Deco tassel necklace. jumped 66.1 percent to 27.82 bil- A weak yen boosted interna- “We were seeing that my conversion rates lion yen, or $261.26 billion at aver- tional sales 10.2 percent to 290.77 were so strong. Any product I posted — espe- age exchange rates for the period. billion yen, or $2.73 billion. In cially accessories and jewelry — was convert- Operating income for the nine local currency terms, the percent ing so well with my readers,” Parcell said. months fell 43.6 percent to 18.81 bil- increase in this fi gure was only 2.8 She sees herself becoming less “That is when the wheels started turning. The lion yen, or $176.62 billion. Shiseido percent. Overseas, sales in Europe of a BaubleBar and more of a multi- next step was to have my own product line.” said factors included “an increase were down due to the sale of the category business that just happens The 24-year-old is starting out small and fo- in personnel expenses stemming Decléor and Carita brands, but to start with jewelry. Her goal is to cused, and said she is already working on a sec- from higher bonus payments in global brand Shiseido and Bare expand into wholesale. ond collection. She plans to let reader response Japan, as well as stepped-up mar- Minerals performed well in the dictate much of the design process going for- keting investments overseas and Americas, Shiseido said. , and going forward she expects ward, and if a certain piece performs well, she higher costs stemming from prob- Shiseido left unchanged its profi t retail to become a meaningful portion will do a spin-off for a future collection. lems at our U.S. distribution center.” guidance for the fi scal year ending of her business Although Parnell has been blogging for A ring from blogger Rachel Parcell of Pink Nine-month sales at Japan’s March 31, but increased its sales more than three years and has a cult fol- Peonies’ first jewelry collection. largest cosmetics manufacturer in- forecast. The company is expecting lowing — her conversion rates are among creased by 3.8 percent to 555.77 bil- net income to grow 14.7 percent year- the highest of those who work with perfor- last year Parcell witnessed a shift. Partnerships lion yen, or $5.22 billion. over-year to 30 billion yen, or $254.4 mance-based digital management agency with brands like Tory Burch, Kate Spade, Since appointing Masahiko billion at current exchange rates. RewardStyle — she was relatively unknown Armani, Dove, Williams & Sonoma and Blue Uotani as president and chief ex- The company is predicting operat- in the fashion space until late last year. Apron, to name a few, started to gain momentum. ecutive officer in April, Shiseido ing income will fall 49.6 percent on the She has just a fraction of the Instagram In 2014, her earnings were split between affi li- has been preparing to make drastic year to 25 billion yen, or $212 billion. followers that leading fashion bloggers have ates and collaborations with brands. reforms to its operations and mar- Shiseido is forecasting yearly net — Parnell has almost 335,000 when others Although Parcell declined to comment on keting strategy. In December, Uotani sales growth of 1.7 percent to 775 bil- have well into the millions — but remains a her earnings, industry sources estimate that detailed some of these reforms in a lion yen, or $6.57 billion. This is up favorite for brands to work with because of she is projected to earn more than $1 million new medium-term business plan set from a previous forecast of 770 bil- her selling power. During Nordstrom’s anni- this year. to start in the coming fi scal year. lion yen, or $6.53 billion. 10 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015

her SAG card on that fi lm, she booked “At Any Price,” with Zac Efron and Dennis Sundance’s Most Wanted Quaid, when she was 18, followed by “Labor Day,” with Kate Winslet and Josh Brolin. The Sundance Film Festival is the place to spot Provenance: Santa Barbara, Calif. The big guns: She just wrapped the big- Hollywood’s next big thing. Here, a look at three of the budget alien-invasion thriller “The Fifth festival’s most buzzed-about starlets. Wave” with Chloë Grace Moretz. “I play a marksman, so I trained with S.W.A.T. guys Bun in the oven: Smulders, who’s married to learn how to shoot, take apart and reload to “SNL” player Taran Killam, was a 9-millimeter semiautomatic. Having my pregnant with their second child during athletic side helped a lot because I had to both shoots. In “Results,” she termed kick big dudes’ asses,” she says. her burgeoning belly a “one-pack” Worst job: “When I was 14, I did a (Smulders was in her fi rst trimester). commercial for Pizza Hut, for their Though further along, she still donned fettuccine Alfredo chicken pasta. By the a cotton-and-silicone bump sewn into twentieth take, they had buckets where her wardrobe to play pregnant in we spit the food out. I didn’t have pasta “Unexpected.” for four months after that.” Up next: In May, she will reprise her On-set romance: Monroe met her boyfriend, role as S.H.I.E.L.D. agent Maria Hill in actor Daniel Zovatto, on the “It Follows” set. “Avengers: Age of Ultron,” alongside “We both said, ‘Yeah, I would never date an Scarlett Johansson and Elizabeth Olsen. actor,’ but it just happened. It’s not easy to “The comic-book world has a lot of strong Bel Powley understand our lifestyles and our jobs, so to female superheroes. It’s nice to see the have someone who gets it and someone to world is branching out,” she notes. talk to about it is very nice.” — JENNY SUNDEL might change very slowly, whereas fi lm Up next: “I start ‘Tribes of Palos Verdes’ in is more immediate. You get so many March. It’s this really cool, dark drama BEL POWLEY different takes and shots, you can develop they compare to ‘American Beauty.’ The 22-year-old Brit made her American your character over half an hour.” Powley Jennifer Garner plays my mom. We’re fi lm debut at the festival in “The Diary relied on her theater chops to play Minnie shooting in Malibu, so it’s the fi rst time Cobie of a Teenage Girl,” bringing to mind in “Diary,” memorizing the 90-page script, I’ll be working near home.” — M.M. Smulders other English ingenues who broke out at as she’s in nearly every scene. Sundance: Carey Mulligan, Felicity Jones, Sartorial style: “I’ve been wearing etc. Though she’s been busy working Burberry the whole festival, and I will COBIE SMULDERS the boards for the last four years at the when we go to Berlin as well. It’s just so Cobie Smulders made it big on the Royal Court Theatre, the West End and classic and chic.” small screen with a nine-year run as on Broadway, she sent an audition tape to Up next: She’s taking pole-dancing lessons eye TV reporter Robin Scherbatsky on CBS “Diary” director Marielle Heller when she for her next fi lm, “Detour,” with Tye smash “How I Met Your Mother.” Since heard about the project. “The script came Sheridan. “It’s a thriller about some people the show wrapped last year, she’s had to me from my American agent; I read it on a road trip to go murder someone in Las time to branch into indie fi lm. She had and thought, ‘Holy s--t, I’ve got to be in this Vegas, and I play a stripper. I’d love to do two premiere at the festival. “It’s really movie.’ You usually make a tape against a a period movie next because then I would fun to play varying characters and not white wall or something, but I did the scene have the whole spectrum done.” be locked into one thing,” she says. in bed, then added a bit on the end, talking — MARCY MEDINA Case in point: In “Results,” she plays a to the camera as myself,” she says. “Then personal trainer alongside Guy Pearce, we met on Skype, and I fl ew to New York to MAIKA MONROE and in “Unexpected,” she’s a teacher read with Alexander [Skarsgård, who plays The 21-year-old Californian has now who gets pregnant at the same time as her mother’s boyfriend] and that was it.” tackled two Sundances in a row: last year’s one of her students. Provenance: West London, England horror thriller “The Guest,” and this year’s Provenance: Vancouver, British Columbia Small screen to big time: Powley also got equally scary “It Follows.” But the former Worst job: “I was, like, a waitress for her start on television, in the popular dancer says, “I had no interest in being forever,” says the former model, 32. English series “M.I. High” when she an actor when I was younger. A producer- What a guy: “He was very deeply was 13. director contacted my company because he committed to the role of Trevor, and he Stage vs. screen: “In theater, you spend four needed backup dancers for a horror fi lm was working out constantly,” she says of weeks getting ready and you go onstage called ‘Bad Blood,’ and I was like, ‘Why Maika Pearce, who was a bodybuilder before and do the same thing every night. Over not?’ But imagine [being] 13 and walking Monroe

he started acting. the course of fi ve weeks, your character on a movie set. I was in awe.” After earning JONES KATIE PHOTOS BY First Things First THURSDAY’S ANNUAL her fi rst Paris boutique in July. Sidaction gala, which raises Héloïse Letissier, the French money for AIDS research and singer behind Christine and patient care, drew a crowd of the Queens, had her own round VIPs and industry faces on the of fi rsts coming up. “My album last day of Paris Couture Week, will be released in the U.S. in though some high-profi le August, and I have never been to foreign guests reportedly the States, because I’m afraid opted to stay at home of planes,” she divulged, following last month’s sporting a printed Kenzo tux Paris attacks. with a pair of derbies. “My plane was empty. So how does she keep It was like a ghost calm when up in the air? “I plane — but we did don’t! I cry, I panic. I think Pierre-Yves Roussel have a lot of snow, I will start drinking,” the Catherine with Tory Burch in Dita Von Teese and you know,” said singer laughed, burying Deneuve vintage Balenciaga. Conchita Wurst designer Tor y her face in her hands. Burch, attending Other guests’ outfi ts her fi rst Sidaction also seemed to echo the the Chloé gang, wore black soon present “Talent Street” on dinner in a vintage blurring of genders that trousers, a striking aquamarine French cable channel France occurred on European blouse, heavy gold necklaces Ô. “It will have candidates from runways recently. and vivid orange lipstick. all the street-culture disciplines FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Forgetting bearded “Actually, it’s red,” she facing off in front of a jury,” WWD.com/eye. Conchita Wurst in a fully corrected, for the party venue she said, reeling off sections, beaded number straight had been bathed in a strange including beat box, break- off Jean Paul Gaultier’s purple light. The English dance, hip-hop, skateboarding, Balenciaga couture runway and Dita singer said she’s working on BMX biking and rap. LBD she had Von Teese poured into a her third album. Max Boublil was making a stripped from her curvy Alexis Mabille Betty Catroux was her usual rare excursion into the world mother’s closet. gown, many women opted licorice self — the skinniest black of fashion. The French stand- Burch, who for tuxedo variations in lieu jeans topped with a tiny black up comic is to star in “La arrived at the party of long dresses. leather blouson licked with gold, véritable histoire de Robin hand in hand with “I go between the two,” from the Saint Laurent men’s des Bois” (which roughly LVMH Fashion shrugged Chloé designer Clare collection by Hedi Slimane. “I translates as “The Real Robin Group honcho Waight Keller, who accessorized don’t even wear women’s clothes Hood”), a parody that will hit Pierre-Yves Roussel, her black pantsuit with a anymore — haven’t for years,” she French screens on April 15. “I said she was gearing Sofi a Sanchez fl oppy black ribbon tie. shrugged. “It’s all boys’ things.” steal from the poor to give to Elizabeth Olsen

up for the opening of Barrenechea Anna Calvi, part of Mareva Galanter said she will myself,” he said. — WWD STAFF STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE PHOTOS BY WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2015 11 WWD.COM trade show next week. Antoine Arnault, its swimwear patterns. president of Loro Piana, is expected to “One of the strongest trends across FASHION SCOOPS be the keynote speaker at the opening the men’s fashion and accessories on Wednesday, together with the vice category is prints,” said David Sirkin, minister of economic development, president of dress shirts for PVH, SCHIFFER SAYS: Claudia Schiffer and Tse is about to step into the limelight as this Carlo Calenda; the mayor of Milan, Giuliano who said the Vilebrequin brand “is creative director Tina Lutz met up in year’s Vilcek Prize in Fashion winner. The Pisapia; the president of the Lombardy synonymous with iconic prints and London last week to put the fi nishing Vilcek Foundation will honor the British- Region Roberto Maroni; the president of a high-quality product. We believe touches on their fi rst capsule collection. born New Yorker with the $100,000 prize Milano Unica Silvio Albini, and Carlo Marenzi, consumers will be pleased with the The supermodel has signed up for a as well as the Stefan Sagmeister-designed president of industry association Sistema adaptation of Vilebrequin’s prints from two-season deal that will debut this fall trophy at a ceremony in April. Moda Italia. — LUISA ZARGANI swimwear to neckwear.” with 17 styles of cashmere and wool- Bolton said he was “incredibly The ties and pocket squares will blend knits. The knit dresses, cardigans, surprised. I’ve never personally received MAMMA MIA: The National Mother’s Day be made of Italian silk twill and the sweaters, pants and capes an award before, and to be Committee has selected four women collection will be manufactured in Italy. are offered in a variety of given one that is so generous to honor at its 37th annual Outstanding The line will be available in stores in May. weights and stitches, which and prestigious has been Mother Awards, that will take place May — JEAN E. PALMIERI were inspired in part by David overwhelming. To know that 7 at The Pierre Hotel. They are Meredith Hockney photographs from the the Vilcek Foundation has Vieira, host and executive producer of “The CUTTING EDGE: “Kaput — it means what it Seventies seen it fi t to recognize the Meredith Vieira Show”; Joanna Coles, editor means; it’s a broken stone,” said Jean Paul Fall borrows from traditions, work my colleagues and I do in chief of Cosmopolitan and editorial Gaultier of the new crystal he developed scents and colors found in at the Costume Institute has director of Hearst Magazines; Liz Rodbell, in collaboration with Swarovski. “What’s Schiffer’s countryside home been extremely humbling. I president of Hudson’s incredible is that it’s in England, and is “anchored couldn’t be happier.” Bay and Lord & reversible, one color by my German heritage and Since joining the Costume Taylor, and Dee Ocleppo on one side, another inspired by the pebble beaches, Institute in 2002, Bolton Hilfiger, designer and color on the other side, beautiful sunsets and Fair Isles Claudia has curated 13 exhibitions creative director of Dee and there are fractures. worn by our local fi shermen,” Schiffer (some with Costume Institute Ocleppo, a handbag It’s very Cubist and she said, adding that the ANTHONY HARVEY/GETTY IMAGES PHOTO BY Curator in Charge Harold fi rm. Art Deco-ish in a way,” collection mixes hand-knit traditions such Koda) and is responsible for one of the Mindy Grossman, chief Gaultier noted of the as intarsia and Aran. Lutz added, “We most highly attended exhibitions in the executive offi cer of double-faced stone, wanted to create a range of pieces that can museum’s history “Alexander McQueen: HSN Inc. and a 2010 which premiered in his easily be intermixed into our customer’s Savage Beauty.” Outstanding Mother haute couture collection current wardrobe. Claudia’s designs were The Vilcek Foundation will honor Award Honoree, on Wednesday. a natural fi t with Tse’s aesthetic and her three foreign-born artists who are up- will again serve as Now that he no longer effortless style is apparent with each piece.” and-comers with Creative Promise mistress of ceremonies. produces ready-to-wear, This isn’t the fi rst time Schiffer has Prizes in the Arts in the fi eld of fashion: Proceeds of the 2015 pre-fall and secondary tried her hand at knitwear: she had her Siki Im, who has a signature label and a awards luncheon lines, the designer plans own knit collection several years ago. denim one aptly named DEN IM; Natallia will benefi t Save to do more costume — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Pilipenka, and Tuyen Tran. Each will receive the Children’s U.S. jewelry. “I want to fi nd a $50,000 cash award. — R.F. Programs. new ideas, new ways Rose SALUTING BOLTON: Having largely worked — LISA LOCKWOOD of doing things, look at McGowan behind-the-scenes since joining The RECRUITING AN ARNAULT: Milano Unica the details on the cuts,” Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume organizers are pulling out all the stops PRINTS OF TIES: STÉPHANE FEUGÈRE PHOTO BY he explained, before Institute as Curator in 2002, Andrew Bolton to inaugurate the giant three-day textile Vilebrequin is branching out into enthusing about Rose McGowan’s hairdo. neckwear. The “Charmed” star sported a crystal The French swimwear brand has peruke (“a mix of ‘Metropolis,’ Cleopatra, to-wear collection, it also puts her licensed PVH Corp.’s Insignia Design Art Deco and disco ball,” as Gaultier new Voyage Handbag Collection in the Group to create a collection of neckties, summed up) from Liberace’s hat-maker. MEMO PAD spotlight. The campaign launches today. bow ties and pocket squares based on “It’s so absurd – I love it,” she laughed. In the U.S., it will appear in the Fiona Swarovski came with her mother SHAPING UP: Meredith Corp. is spring issues of Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Marina (a granddaughter of the company’s shuttering the print editions of newly Bazaar, W, InStyle, V Magazine and founder) to see the innovation up acquired titles Fit Pregnancy and Interview, among others. In the U.K., it close. The affable heiress faces a busy Natural Health, WWD has learned. will appear in the spring issues of Love year ahead. “We are opening fi ve new The news was confi rmed by and AnOther, among others. It will Cadenzza stores,” which will add to the Meredith, which said it plans to retain also run in the various international existing 27, she said. the digital presence of Fit Pregnancy editions of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Swarovksi, who is in charge of the and Natural Health and incorporate Elle. Outdoors, the campaign will be family company’s multi-brand jewelry elements of their content into similar mounted on taxi tops, billboards and chain, said the idea behind Cadenzza Meredith pubs, such as American Baby. other outdoor units worldwide. Ads is to present an edited selection of 30 Meredith bought the two titles, along will also run online. — LISA LOCKWOOD designers, established brands as well as with Shape, from American Media this up-and-coming labels. “It’s like a concept week. In the process of the transaction HASHING IT OUT: Fashion brands are store — but for jewelry only,” she added. with AMI, some of the staff from Fit keeping it simple with hashtags. Neckwear from Vilebrequin. — PAULINA SZMYDKE Pregnancy and Natural Health were let According to digital analytics fi rm go, sources said. Stylophane, #fashion was the most The cuts didn’t stop at AMI. Fitness widely used hashtag by brands in magazine, Meredith’s health title December, followed by #regram, suffered layoffs, as well. It will be folded #christmas, #style, #love, #OOTD into Shape under Meredith when Shape (outfi t of the day), #holiday, #repost, releases its fi rst issue under the new #nyc and #inspiration. Nearly 300 owner in May. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD brands posted an image or video to Instagram with #fashion, Motel Rocks For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. DVF ON THE FLY: Diane von Furstenberg’s leading the pack with 84 posts. Topshop woman is always on the go, literally. Her Australia came in second with 49 spring campaign features Daria Werbowy posts, and Free People and Lipsy had making her way through a New York 39 and 27, respectively. According to airport terminal. It was photographed Stylophane, the platform tracks upward by Emma Summerton. “The collection is of 6,000 apparel and beauty brands called Riviera, but the campaign is really globally on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest about this strong and sexy woman,” said and Instagram. According to the fi rm, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, von Furstenberg. “It’s all about this easy social-media marketers can use this PRODUCTIONS glamour that comes from being on the go.” data to see what’s trending among the Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Created by New York-based ad fashion, beauty, denim and footwear agency Laird + Partners, the campaign set, gaining insight into how brands are was styled by Edward Enninful. In addition executing their social-media marketing to featuring some looks from her ready- strategies. — RACHEL STRUGATZ

Daria Werbowy for Diane von Furstenberg.