Ring-A-Ding-Ding! Taking Flight
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Ring-a-Ding-Ding! INCLUDING THE LATEST IN SUNGLASSES, DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS, BRIAN ATWOOD’S NEW LINE AND HARRY WINSTON’S LATEST LOOK. SEE STYLE, PAGES 1-12. WWDMONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 LVMH’S OLIVE BRANCH Arnault on Hermès: Only ‘Peaceful’ Intentions By MILES SOCHA PARIS — Could Hermès International that his company’s prickly relations one day cooperate with LVMH Moët with Hermès, which views LVMH’s Hennessy Louis Vuitton, its biggest and stake-building as hostile, would im- most reviled shareholder? prove, allowing the two luxury players Bernard Arnault extended that olive to collaborate in a way “that is con- branch Friday as he disclosed record structive and benefi cial to the compa- 2010 results for the world’s largest ny.” Analysts have suggested Hermès luxury conglomerate and vowed that it could benefi t from LVMH’s clout in buy- would be a “peaceful but not passive” ing advertising space and rental prop- shareholder in the maker of Birkin bags erty, for example. and silk scarves. In a veiled riposte to Hermès — “Don’t count on us to be aggressive,” which claims its corporate culture and he told a rapt audience of analysts and commitment to high craftsmanship is journalists hungry for fresh signals unique — Arnault peppered his talk about LVMH’s intentions. “We are very with repeated references to LVMH’s ob- pleased to be a shareholder in this very session with quality, its workshops and fi ne company. We want to support the artisans. family shareholders, and we want to He opened the morning session at support the management.” LVMH’s in-house auditorium here with That said, Arnault held out hope SEE PAGE 6 IN WWD TODAY Mark Lee’s Hints on Barneys M PAGE 4 RETAIL: The Barneys New York chief executive offi cer unveils a new ad campaign — and gives a preview of his strategy. Out of Kansas STYLE, PAGE 1 EYE: Lindsey Wixson has the fash- ion world calling at age 16 — but her main goal is getting a GED and wearing Jason Wu to her high school prom. Nigo on Selling Bape PAGE 6 FASHION: The Japanese designer talks about the sale of A Bathing Ape — and how he’s glad about giving up the management reins. Ta k ing Flight Wilfredo Rosado’s fanciful new collection of jewelry — decked out in diamonds, Place Vendôme gold and Maison Lemarié plumage — is landing in New York this week. Here, two of his pieces with FISCHHOFF removable feathers: an 18-karat white gold and diamond cuff and an 18-karat yellow gold, diamond and paraiba necklace. For more on Rosado, as well as other noteworthy accoutrements, see page 5. SHOSHANNA BY PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA STYLED 2 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 WWD.COM Pringle CEO Departs Post Management Shifts at Juicy TAKING A STEP that leaves the management of its Juicy Couture unit By SAMANTHA CONTI However, the brand is still struggling to build in limbo, Liz Claiborne Inc. has moved Edgar Huber from the post of sales and profi ts, and over the summer Pringle chief executive officer of Juicy to a new position as executive vice pres- LONDON — Mary-Adair Macaire has said it would close its Bond Street store ident of global business development for the entire company. stepped down as chief executive officer of here, with an eye to opening smaller loca- The move means that LeAnn Nealz, who joined Juicy as presi- Pringle of Scotland after nearly two-and-a- tions — 1,100 square feet, on average — in dent and chief creative offi cer in September from a similar post half years. She has been succeeded by Jean London and resorts such as Monte Carlo, at American Eagle Outfi tters Inc., and John DeFalco, the chief Fang, a member of the Hong Kong-based Monaco; Gstaad, Switzerland and Aspen, fi nancial offi cer and chief operations offi cer, “will jointly manage family that owns the brand. Colo. These stores will sell mostly cash- the Juicy Couture business while the leadership structure for the An announcement is expected today. mere knitwear. brand going forward is determined,” the company said. Benoit Duverger has been named According to Companies House, the Nealz and DeFalco will report to William L. McComb, ceo of managing director, reporting to Fang and official government register for U.K. Liz Claiborne, and Huber will continue to do so. Huber’s title at her family. Duverger had been director businesses, Pringle’s sales in the year Juicy shifted to ceo from president upon Nealz’s arrival. of global communications at Pringle. ending Jan. 30, 2010, were 11.1 million The reassignment of Huber effectively drags the questions per- Fang referred to Duverger as an pounds, or $17.8 million, down 36 per- taining to Juicy’s management into a second year. Co-founders Gela “extremely driven” luxury goods cent from the previous year. Losses were Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy relinquished day-to-day re- professional. “I am confi dent he 6.7 million pounds, or $10.7 million, down sponsibility for the brand in January 2010 and plan to launch a new will advance the excellent work from 9.3 million pounds, or $14.9 million, label this year upon expiration of their non-compete agreement. achieved to date and take it fur- in the previous year. Culminating a four-year search, Huber joined Juicy as president ther,” she said. Pringle plans to move forward with in 2008 after 16 years with L’Oréal, most recently as managing direc- The Fang family business, a more commercial tack. Duverger tor of major markets. At L’Oréal, he served as president of Kiehl’s S.C. Fang & Sons Co. Ltd., ac- said there are plans to reintroduce Since 1851 beginning in 2002 and was credited with expanding the quired Pringle from Dawson a golf line, and the brand has hired brand’s retail network from two stores to more than 60. International plc in 2000, and Sophia Neophitou, the editor of 10 “Edgar’s considerable experience in global licensing and busi- since then it has taken the label up- Magazine, to design a capsule col- ness development will bring focused oversight to, and acceler- market, transforming it into a luxury lection of packable cashmere ate, our international efforts, many under way already, in 2011,” brand with knitwear at its core. knits that will be sold at duty free McComb commented. Over the past two years, Macaire and A look stores exclusively. That collection Juicy, McComb added, opened 46 stores and entered numerous Duverger gave the brand a more sophis- from will go on sale in September. international partnerships during Huber’s tenure. ticated profi le through collaborations with Pringle. The brand will continue its However, Juicy’s retail results hit a rough patch in December. London’s Serpentine Gallery and with art- fashion and art collaborations. Comparable-store sales, including e-commerce revenues, rose ists such as the Turner Prize winner Richard During London Fashion Week it will launch 3 percent in October and 9 percent in November before falling Wright and David Shrigley, who designed lim- a capsule collection of tweaked designs 5 percent in the year’s fi nal month, reducing the fourth-quarter ited edition twinsets for Pringle. from the Pringle archives, known as the comp to an increase of 1 percent and contributing to a lowering Macaire and Duverger gave an edge to the Pringle Archive Project 1815-2011. The col- of fourth-quarter guidance by the company on Jan. 6. McComb company’s ad campaigns, tapping Tilda Swinton lection has been conceived in collaboration cited reduced traffi c and fashion misses for “comparable sales to model and Ryan McGinley to shoot quirky im- with students from Central Saint Martins. and gross profi t in December at Juicy Couture, Lucky Brand and ages set on Scottish beaches and in the country- Pringle has also collaborated with the Mexx Europe that were clearly disappointing.” side. They introduced e-commerce and made a British artist Liam Gillick, who’s designed a Also in January, Kate Foster, Juicy’s vice president of global big effort to attract international buyers and press collection of multicolored argyle sweaters that marketing and communications, left the fi rm. to the shows in London and Milan. will debut at Pitti Uomo in June. — ARNOLD J. KARR BEAUTY BEAT based out of Los Angeles, and expects to ap- point a new chief executive offi cer early this year, who will report to David Suliteanu, ceo Early Exit Seen LVMH Buys Ole Henriksen and president of Sephora Americas. The brand is sold in 25 countries, with a LOYALTY HAS ITS REWARDS. large presence in Scandinavia. The deal will For L’Oréal Chief LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has acquired luxury potentially expand Ole Henriksen’s reach to PARIS — Speculation is rife here that Lindsay botanical skin care brand Ole Henriksen. Mexico, via Sephora’s venture with Grupo Owen-Jones will step down from his role as The Scandinavian skin care range entered LVMH- Axo of Mexico City, and to Brazil, through L’Oréal chairman on March 17 — his 65th birth- owned Sephora in 2006, and has steadily expanded across LVMH’s partnership with Rio de Janeiro- day — and pass the reins to Jean-Paul Agon, the beauty retailer’s doors domestically and abroad. based online retailer Sack’s, said Jeff the company’s chief executive offi cer. A L’Oréal “I sent a goodie package to Sephora about eight years ago,” Menashe, chairman of Demeter Group, the spokeswoman had no comment on Sunday.