Ring-a-Ding-Ding! INCLUDING THE LATEST IN SUNGLASSES, DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS, BRIAN ATWOOD’S NEW LINE AND HARRY WINSTON’S LATEST LOOK. SEE STYLE, PAGES 1-12.

WWDMONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 LVMH’S OLIVE BRANCH Arnault on Hermès: Only ‘Peaceful’ Intentions By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Could Hermès International that his company’s prickly relations one day cooperate with LVMH Moët with Hermès, which views LVMH’s Hennessy Louis Vuitton, its biggest and stake-building as hostile, would im- most reviled shareholder? prove, allowing the two luxury players Bernard Arnault extended that olive to collaborate in a way “that is con- branch Friday as he disclosed record structive and benefi cial to the compa- 2010 results for the world’s largest ny.” Analysts have suggested Hermès luxury conglomerate and vowed that it could benefi t from LVMH’s clout in buy- would be a “peaceful but not passive” ing advertising space and rental prop- shareholder in the maker of Birkin erty, for example. and silk scarves. In a veiled riposte to Hermès — “Don’t count on us to be aggressive,” which claims its corporate culture and he told a rapt audience of analysts and commitment to high craftsmanship is journalists hungry for fresh signals unique — Arnault peppered his talk about LVMH’s intentions. “We are very with repeated references to LVMH’s ob- pleased to be a shareholder in this very session with quality, its workshops and fi ne company. We want to support the artisans. family shareholders, and we want to He opened the morning session at support the management.” LVMH’s in-house auditorium here with That said, Arnault held out hope SEE PAGE 6

IN WWD TODAY

Mark Lee’s Hints on Barneys M PAGE 4 RETAIL: The Barneys New York chief executive offi cer unveils a new ad campaign — and gives a preview of his strategy.

Out of Kansas STYLE, PAGE 1 EYE: Lindsey Wixson has the fash- ion world calling at age 16 — but her main goal is getting a GED and wearing Jason Wu to her high school prom.

Nigo on Selling Bape PAGE 6 FASHION: The Japanese designer talks about the sale of A Bathing Ape — and how he’s glad about giving up the management reins. Ta k ing Flight Wilfredo Rosado’s fanciful new collection of jewelry — decked out in diamonds, Place Vendôme gold and Maison Lemarié plumage — is landing in New York this week. Here, two of his pieces with removable feathers: an 18-karat white gold and diamond cuff and an 18-karat yellow gold, diamond and paraiba necklace. For more on Rosado, as well as other noteworthy accoutrements, see page 5. SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF

PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA STYLED BY 2 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 WWD.COM Pringle CEO Departs Post Management Shifts at Juicy TAKING A STEP that leaves the management of its Juicy Couture unit By SAMANTHA CONTI However, the brand is still struggling to build in limbo, Liz Claiborne Inc. has moved Edgar Huber from the post of sales and profi ts, and over the summer Pringle chief executive officer of Juicy to a new position as executive vice pres- LONDON — Mary-Adair Macaire has said it would close its Bond Street store ident of global business development for the entire company. stepped down as chief executive officer of here, with an eye to opening smaller loca- The move means that LeAnn Nealz, who joined Juicy as presi- Pringle of Scotland after nearly two-and-a- tions — 1,100 square feet, on average — in dent and chief creative offi cer in September from a similar post half years. She has been succeeded by Jean London and resorts such as Monte Carlo, at American Eagle Outfi tters Inc., and John DeFalco, the chief Fang, a member of the Hong Kong-based Monaco; Gstaad, Switzerland and Aspen, fi nancial offi cer and chief operations offi cer, “will jointly manage family that owns the brand. Colo. These stores will sell mostly cash- the Juicy Couture business while the leadership structure for the An announcement is expected today. mere knitwear. brand going forward is determined,” the company said. Benoit Duverger has been named According to Companies House, the Nealz and DeFalco will report to William L. McComb, ceo of managing director, reporting to Fang and official government register for U.K. Liz Claiborne, and Huber will continue to do so. Huber’s title at her family. Duverger had been director businesses, Pringle’s sales in the year Juicy shifted to ceo from president upon Nealz’s arrival. of global communications at Pringle. ending Jan. 30, 2010, were 11.1 million The reassignment of Huber effectively drags the questions per- Fang referred to Duverger as an pounds, or $17.8 million, down 36 per- taining to Juicy’s management into a second year. Co-founders Gela “extremely driven” luxury goods cent from the previous year. Losses were Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy relinquished day-to-day re- professional. “I am confi dent he 6.7 million pounds, or $10.7 million, down sponsibility for the brand in January 2010 and plan to launch a new will advance the excellent work from 9.3 million pounds, or $14.9 million, label this year upon expiration of their non-compete agreement. achieved to date and take it fur- in the previous year. Culminating a four-year search, Huber joined Juicy as president ther,” she said. Pringle plans to move forward with in 2008 after 16 years with L’Oréal, most recently as managing direc- The Fang family business, a more commercial tack. Duverger tor of major markets. At L’Oréal, he served as president of Kiehl’s S.C. Fang & Sons Co. Ltd., ac- said there are plans to reintroduce Since 1851 beginning in 2002 and was credited with expanding the quired Pringle from Dawson a golf line, and the brand has hired brand’s retail network from two stores to more than 60. International plc in 2000, and Sophia Neophitou, the editor of 10 “Edgar’s considerable experience in global licensing and busi- since then it has taken the label up- Magazine, to design a capsule col- ness development will bring focused oversight to, and acceler- market, transforming it into a luxury lection of packable cashmere ate, our international efforts, many under way already, in 2011,” brand with knitwear at its core. knits that will be sold at duty free McComb commented. Over the past two years, Macaire and A look stores exclusively. That collection Juicy, McComb added, opened 46 stores and entered numerous Duverger gave the brand a more sophis- from will go on sale in September. international partnerships during Huber’s tenure. ticated profi le through collaborations with Pringle. The brand will continue its However, Juicy’s retail results hit a rough patch in December. London’s Serpentine Gallery and with art- fashion and art collaborations. Comparable-store sales, including e-commerce revenues, rose ists such as the Turner Prize winner Richard During London Fashion Week it will launch 3 percent in October and 9 percent in November before falling Wright and David Shrigley, who designed lim- a capsule collection of tweaked designs 5 percent in the year’s fi nal month, reducing the fourth-quarter ited edition twinsets for Pringle. from the Pringle archives, known as the comp to an increase of 1 percent and contributing to a lowering Macaire and Duverger gave an edge to the Pringle Archive Project 1815-2011. The col- of fourth-quarter guidance by the company on Jan. 6. McComb company’s ad campaigns, tapping Tilda Swinton lection has been conceived in collaboration cited reduced traffi c and fashion misses for “comparable sales to model and Ryan McGinley to shoot quirky im- with students from Central Saint Martins. and gross profi t in December at Juicy Couture, Lucky Brand and ages set on Scottish beaches and in the country- Pringle has also collaborated with the Mexx Europe that were clearly disappointing.” side. They introduced e-commerce and made a British artist Liam Gillick, who’s designed a Also in January, Kate Foster, Juicy’s vice president of global big effort to attract international buyers and press collection of multicolored argyle sweaters that marketing and communications, left the fi rm. to the shows in London and Milan. will debut at Pitti Uomo in June. — ARNOLD J. KARR

BEAUTY BEAT based out of Los Angeles, and expects to ap- point a new chief executive offi cer early this year, who will report to David Suliteanu, ceo Early Exit Seen LVMH Buys Ole Henriksen and president of Sephora Americas. The brand is sold in 25 countries, with a LOYALTY HAS ITS REWARDS. large presence in Scandinavia. The deal will For L’Oréal Chief LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has acquired luxury potentially expand Ole Henriksen’s reach to PARIS — Speculation is rife here that Lindsay botanical skin care brand Ole Henriksen. Mexico, via Sephora’s venture with Grupo Owen-Jones will step down from his role as The Scandinavian skin care range entered LVMH- Axo of Mexico City, and to Brazil, through L’Oréal chairman on March 17 — his 65th birth- owned Sephora in 2006, and has steadily expanded across LVMH’s partnership with Rio de Janeiro- day — and pass the reins to Jean-Paul Agon, the beauty retailer’s doors domestically and abroad. based online retailer Sack’s, said Jeff the company’s chief executive offi cer. A L’Oréal “I sent a goodie package to Sephora about eight years ago,” Menashe, chairman of Demeter Group, the spokeswoman had no comment on Sunday. said the line’s namesake and founder Ole Henriksen on how San Francisco-based investment bank that It was reported by Le Journal du Dimanche he landed in Sephora. “My loyalty has stayed with Sephora acted as exclusive fi nancial adviser to the newspaper that the changeover will be approved and the reason is I love the way it goes about doing business.” skin care brand. during a L’Oréal board meeting due to be held on Referring to his decision to sell the brand that he has In North America, Ole Henriksen is sold Thursday, the same day the company publishes been building since 1985, Henriksen said, “Every brand in all of Sephora’s U.S. stores, including its annual results. The executive change would reaches a certain plateau, and has to ask, ‘Do I need more the retailer’s outposts in J.C. Penney, in come earlier than expected; in April 2010, Owen- muscle behind me?’” For Henriksen, that point came last Canada and on the TV shopping network Jones’ tenure as chairman had been renewed year as the brand entered Sephora doors in China, and he HSN. It also is sold in a number of spas and until 2014. After March 17, it is believed Owen- was faced with navigating the country’s new ingredient small boutiques across the U.S. Jones will be L’Oréal’s honorary chairman. registration requirements. Henriksen’s spa, the Ole Henriksen Agon became ceo in April 2006. Prior to that, Henriksen said he will continue to develop products Face/Body spa in Los Angeles, is not in- Ole Henriksen Owen-Jones had held the position of L’Oréal for the line and act as brand spokesman in his role as vi- cluded in the deal. African Red Tea chairman and ceo for 18 years. sionary-creative director. The company will continue to be — MOLLY PRIOR Foaming Cleanser. — JENNIFER WEIL

TODAY ON WWD.COM TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS DAILY QUOTE [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. A Nina Ricci WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. ■ RETAIL: See more images from Barneys’ COPYRIGHT ©2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. I fi nd it pointless to compare visual from VOLUME 201, NO. 25. Monday, February 7, 2011. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Barneys’ spring ad campaign and looks from Forever 21’s Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, November and December, two cultures. It’s like asking, “Do designer collaborations at WWD.com/retail-news. additional issues in February, March, April and August and three additional issues in September and October) spring by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. 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By LISA LOCKWOOD

NEW YORK — Mark Lee’s vision for Barneys New York is starting to take focus. At a breakfast meeting at Fred’s with several report- ers Friday, Barneys’ new chief executive officer hinted at some changes to come at the luxury specialty retailer. Among the new developments: ■ A black-and-white spring image campaign that was photographed backstage at fashion shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Cinematic images will appear in national newspapers, magazines and online, and will be displayed gallerylike throughout the store and windows. ■ Renovation of the Madison Avenue flagship’s main floor and men’s Co-op department — two major projects that will be undertaken this year. ■ An editorial microsite on the Barneys e-commerce Web site called “The Window” that goes live today and will highlight the latest Barneys news and products, as well as videos, shows and in-depth profiles of designers. ■ A new Azzedine Alaïa ready-to-wear space, which will take over the women’s Prada rtw space this week. Prada rtw and handbags will be dropped from the assort- ment due to a leasing issue. This was a decision made be- fore Lee took over. A Valextra department will take over the Prada space on the main floor this week. Barneys’

■ Black-and-white awnings will replace red ones at spring the Manhattan flagship, mirroring the ad campaign and campaign relating to the iconic black Barneys shopping bags. goes Since joining the retailer in September, Lee has as- backstage sembled a new team of executives, several of whom at- at Rochas. tended the breakfast: Daniella Vitale, chief merchant and executive vice president overseeing all women’s and barneys.com; Dennis Freedman, creative director, the shows and show the cinematic nature of the back- in the last five to six years to renovate the Madison and Charlotte Blechman, senior vice president of mar- stage experience. Some of the photographers whose Avenue and Beverly Hills flagships. The Madison Avenue keting and communications. Also in attendance was work is featured in the campaign are Nan Goldin, ground floor will be renovated first, and a large amount Barneys veteran Tom Kalenderian, executive vice pres- William Klein, Roxanne Lowit, Raymond Meier, Collier will be done by November. Accessories, leather goods ident and general merchandise manager of men’s and Schorr, Stéphane Sednaoui and Juergen Teller. In ad- and jewelry will remain on the ground floor. The Beverly Chelsea Passage for Barneys New York. Simon Doonan, dition, Barneys commissioned backstage images from Hills flagship’’ will get a new shoe department. creative ambassador at large, was working at a Barneys some emerging photographers such as Anna Bauer, JH Another key undertaking will be the men’s Co-op. event in California and couldn’t make it, while Amanda Engström and Andrea Spotorno. The fifth to eighth floors will be overhauled, and there Brooks, the newly named fashion director, begins today. Each of the photographs offers a glimpse into the will be a connection to the women’s Co-op on the eighth “It’s a work in progress. Overall, I want to make celebrated fashion houses, which include Celine, , floor. “The men’s and women’s will be completely re- Barneys the greatest specialty store in the world,” said Jil Sander, L’Wren Scott, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler and done” on the eighth floor, Lee said, adding there are 17 Lee. He said the changes won’t happen overnight, and The Row. Additionally, some designers, such as Ann floors in the Madison Avenue flagship between women’s there won’t be a “ta-da” moment, but since the store is a Demeulemeester, Thakoon Panichgul and Derek Lam, and men’s, and it’s a multiyear project. “The main floor “living, breathing thing, it’ll move step by step.” are quoted describing the energy and electricity back- and men’s Co-op opens up a ripple effect for what will Until now, Lee has been reluctant to reveal his hand stage at their shows. happen in 2012 and 2013,” he said. and has kept a low profile. “I’m a worker, not so much a The black-and-white theme will be carried through Lee pointed out that once the Co-op is connected, talker. I’d much rather do things,” said Lee. all Barneys channels, including Co-op. The print ads other floors will be connected, too. A greater connec- He explained that when he arrived in September, 100 broke Sunday in the Styles section of The New York tion between women’s and men’s will also occur on the percent of the buying was done in men’s, and 85 percent Times and will break in online media on Thursday. ground floor. of the women’s was complete, and the spring fashion National print ads will also run in the March cycle was beginning. He said customers won’t see the issues of such magazines as Vogue, GQ, Vanity real impact of the evolving brands and how the spaces Fair and Departures. Barneys is deploying QR will change until fall. Since so much was already put in codes into both the traditional and interactive It’s a work in progress. motion for spring, he was able to make the communica- media to add another layer to the campaign. tion and marketing aspect a priority. The QR code directs users to the content-rich Overall, I want to make As the team viewed the spring merchandise, they experience on the Barneys Web site. were inspired by all the “great black and white” in Today, Barneys will launch an editorial site Barneys the greatest the collections, he said. Rather than just run black- linked to barneys.com called The Window, and-white imagery, they decided to shoot backstage at “since our windows are world famous,” said Lee. It will showcase what’s going on, what’s specialty store in the world. exclusive and what’s special at Barneys, and William Klein shoots backstage at will be updated daily. For example, it will fea- — Mark Lee, Barneys Lanvin for Barneys’ spring campaign. ture interviews with Olivier Theyskens, Greg Lauren, Frédéric Malle and L’Wren Scott, as well as As reported, Barneys plans to close several Co-ops Carven designer Guillaume Henry. this year — in Houston, White Plains, N.Y. and Troy, “The overall vision is to be special and to have exclu- Mich. “There are no plans to close any flagships today,” sive, semi-exclusive and rare brands,” said Lee. The micro- he said. site will offer the story behind those products and brands. Finally, discussing the appointment of nonretailers Turning to brands, Lee said some changes are afoot to both the creative director and fashion director posts, in the merchandise. He noted that Azzedine Alaïa will Lee explained, “In terms of picking product that’s right get “a new important space,” and its biggest space in the for Barneys, we all know how to do that. A big part of U.S., taking over Prada’s ready-to-wear area. In a move Amanda’s role is to serve as an editor. She will work with that was decided before Lee joined Barneys, “Prada Dennis and Charlotte on what should be in” the ads and ready-to-wear and handbags are no longer carried in the catalogues. “She has great experience in product de- women’s, just men’s,” he said. velopment. She’ll work on the Barneys New York prod- He said before he got there Prada had requested uct. The job is part styling, editing and trend direction. leased concessions and “the entire meaning of Barneys We didn’t need to add a retail fashion director.”’’ would be lost.” Prada will still be represented in wom- As for Freedman’s background as a creative di- en’s shoes and men’s wear. Valextra will take over rector at W, also with no retail experience, Lee said, Prada’s handbag space on the main floor and will be “Creativity is creativity. Great creativity is hard to find. exclusive to Barneys. Valextra had previously been an He has an eye for artists, furniture and architecture, exclusive brand at Saks Fifth Avenue. “It’s understated, which is highly valuable. The overall vision will be sur- sophisticated and nonlogo,” said Vitale. prising and different than anyone else.” Asked how difficult it is to get exclusives in New Freedman said he’d like to make Barneys a home for York these days, Lee said, “We fight, but there’s a real- set designers, musicians, performance artists, video art- ity. Total exclusivity is the ultimate dream. ists and even writers. “I want this to be a place where We’re not going to be deep in brands that are [fashion] designers can come and experiment. It’s our For more on Barneys sold everywhere.” job to make this a place they want to come to,” he said. and additional images, see Lee said that an “important amount” of Asked whether “Taste Luxury and Humor,” will re- capital expenditures has been earmarked for main the store’s tagline, Lee said taste and luxury, for WWD.com store renovations. “There was a lot of money sure, but as far as humor, “Wit is better. The best of spent to open new stores,” he said, and now Barneys was when it was witty. In terms of a laugh riot, they expect to spend equal the amount spent maybe not, but wit is part of the DNA.” THE LATEST LAUREN: Greg Lauren — Ralph’s nephew — unveils his WWDSTYLE own fashion line. See page 16.

Not in Kansas Anymore

At 16 years old, By ZEKE TURNER

TRAFFIC IS TOO SLOW on 35th Street on a recent Saturday, so Lindsey model Lindsey Wixson, the 16-year-old model from Kansas, decides to ditch her cab at Madison Avenue and walk the last few blocks across town through the Wixson is snow to Jason Wu’s studio. A stranger seems to recognize her on the street. “Really?” she says through taxiing gleefully. That never happens. She might want to get used to it. The story of the 16-year-old from the Midwest who fi nds fame as a model has been done before, but the speed and degree of Wixson’s success and ready for breaks the mold. When she was 15 , found a video of her on a modeling Web site and booked her for Italian Vogue. When Meisel’s pho- takeoff. tographs ran, Prada booked her to open their spring show in Milan, and Miu Miu tapped her to close in Paris, both as exclusives. By September, Stefano Tonchi ran a full-page close-up of her lips and the gap in her teeth — her two most arresting features — in his fi rst issue of W. She walked in a combined 44 shows in New York, Paris and Milan in the fall. John SEE PAGE 6 PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY 002 WWDSTYLE XXXXXXXXX,MONDAY, FEBRUARY XXXXXXXX 7, 2011 XX, 2011 accessories Left: Anna Sheffield bangles for Lindsey Thornburg. Below: A sketch of a Miriam Haskell Jewelry’s Runway Reach necklace for Marchesa.

By LAUREN BENET STEPHENSON dependently at a presenta- view the advantages in tion instead. creative terms, as well as THOUGH THE MAIN DRAW during New York Ali Galgano, founder exposure. Sheffield collabo- Fashion Week is the ready-to-wear designs, it’s also of online jewelry re- rated with Marc Jacobs for his a high-profile stage for jewelry collaborations. The tailer Charm & Chain, spring 2006 line in the fall of 2005. partnerships are mutually beneficial, helping to com- has noticed an uptick “Doing the line for Marc was plete an outfit on the runway while bringing jewelry in sales after fashion the biggest push for me,” Sheffield designs to a larger audience. week collaborations. said. “It was a really visible, in- Among the collaborations for the fall collec- “I feel like when the credible forum, to have my work tions that get under way this week are Miriam two brands really work presented in that way.…There’s no Haskell for Marchesa, Chopard for Pamella Roland, together and there’s an obvi- way to really measure the varied ben- Alexis Bittar for Jason Wu, Ben-Amun for Jonathan ous synergy is when it works,” efits from doing collaborative work. It’s Simkhai and IvanaHelsinki, Janis Savitt for Ralph she said, pointing to Lizzie putting your product in front of a new type Lauren, Kara Ross for Tadashi Shoji, Meredith Fortunato for Suno, Alexis Bittar and of consumer, so it all comes around in one way, shape Kahn of Make Her Think for Mandy Coon and Dannijo. or form. I’ve never found it to be a waste of time… Jonathan Goldstein of Bevel for Parkchoonmoo. Dannijo is presenting its line in a fashion week but, then again, I’m an overachiever.” Also, Atelier Swarovski is working with Cate Adair, presentation in addition to collaborative collections Sheffield, who is collaborating with Lindsey Arik Levy and Rodrigo Otazu. with Vena Cava and Bibhu Mohapatra. Danielle and Thornburg this season, added, “It’s not for the Lizzie Fortunato Jewels has teamed up with Jodie Snyder, the designers behind Dannijo, met weak of heart. It takes a lot of time and attention Suno for a second season. Vena Cava designers Lisa Mayock to go above and beyond what you’re already doing Designer Lizzie Fortunato said, and Sophie Buhai at an event and with your brand. There’s definitely always going to “It’s good for me to have the chal- formed a friendship that evolved be a lot of time spent, and a lot of back-and-forth lenge of working with someone into a partnership. conversation and revisions and all that.…You have else and not just being my own “We had a creative meeting, we to be nimble.” single-man operation.” talked through what they loved, we Erickson Beamon evolved as a jewelry brand in She created the collection for showed some of our pieces,” said the mid-Eighties as a result of a need for jewelry for Suno in addition to her own fall line. Danielle Snyder. “We definitely designer rtw shows. Fortunato also has worked with VPL created and designed a collection “We started making jewelry only because I by Victoria Bartlett for five seasons, just for their show. I’m always in- didn’t have jewelry for a ready-to-wear show that and said, “The biggest challenge is spired anytime we work with cre- I was doing,” said Karen Erickson, co-founder of perceiving someone else’s vision ative people. It colors your creative Erickson Beamon. “Collaborations are the core of while not being with them day to process one way or another.…It’s this brand. I love taking a concept or an idea and day and always going back and forth more about the dynamics [between turning it into a reality.” with pictures and ideas — until next the designers].” Perhaps because of this history, Erickson em- week, when we have the samples in Dannijo has collaborated with braces the collaborations of fashion week as part of a a room with all the finished jewelry. Trovata, Luca Luca, Bensoni and larger life mantra. I’m constantly worrying: Is this going Walter, among others, and admitted “What in life isn’t collaborative?” she asked rhe- to work with their clothing?” that it’s not always a flawless experience. torically. “Everything we do is a collaboration: when Despite the challenge, Fortunato said, “I’ve al- “Anytime you’re dealing with creative people, try- you get on an elevator and someone has to move to ways had a good experience, but it’s unique that ing to find a balance between your vision and their the back, it’s all an exchange. Our life on this planet we got on with the designers as well as we did. It’s vision, it should reflect both brands,” Snyder said. is a collaboration with the trees.” more about the dynamics. It’s helped overall sales “Sometimes, particularly with clothing designers, Erickson was sure to stress — and perhaps this is by introducing an entire line and product to retail- they feel like jewelry should be secondary to the the crux of the brand’s success — that the apparel ers and editors.” clothes. They don’t recognize it as being just as im- designer dictates the direction of the collaboration. Jewelry designer Dana Lorenz of Fenton Jewelry portant to finish off the look. They want so many de- “It’s never our mutual inspiration,” she added. agreed. “You do get a lot of press off of it...and when signs, but they don’t really want the jewelry to over- “I’m working with a ready-to-wear designer, and I be- you partner with other people that are carried in power the clothes.…Once the stylist comes in for the lieve accessory designers aren’t designing in a vacu- stores, it seems to generate more publicity,” she show, they could be like, ‘I don’t want this for these um, they’re meant to be worn with clothing.…Women said. “Someone may potentially buy your main col- five outfits,’ or ‘Can you make this?’…No, we can’t don’t wear just accessories, they start with fabric and lection as well as the collaboration. You get more make that, it’s taken us five months to do.” ideas and concepts. So if Anna [Sui] is thinking Deco, attention from stores, and people inquire about your Even when everything does go smoothly, the ben- I’m thinking Deco. You have to work with the ready- own collection.” efits are difficult to quantify. “It’s hard to tell in terms to-wear designer. Jewelry is a part of the picture, but Lorenz has collaborated with Proenza Schouler of sales,” admitted Snyder. it’s never the picture. It’s like punctuation, it helps and Thakoon, but this season is showing her line in- Anna Sheffield of jewelry line Bing Bang likes to the sentence, but it isn’t the sentence.” Winston Spins Fresh Format in Vegas

By RACHEL BROWN and in trying to constantly enhance the from contemporary jewelry and watch- experience.” es. With the new concept, de Narp be- HARRY WINSTON is putting a friend- Harry Winston joined forces with lieves that watches especially will be a lier face on its retail. interior designer William Sofield, Tom larger part of the sales mix. The grand opening Thursday of Ford’s long-time collaborator, to up- Planting another store in Las Vegas the fine jewelry brand’s Las Vegas date its store concept. The facade of — the brand already has one at the The Harry Winston store within the Crystals at CityCenter the 1,900-square-foot Las Vegas store Forum Shops — is risky at a time when store at the Crystals marked the official introduction of a is transparent glass in the spirit of the discretionary spending Mecca isn’t at CityCenter. revamped store design instituted to openness to give passersby a chance yet clicking on all cylinders after tak- convey Harry Winston’s accessibility by to glance inside at the merchandise. ing a pounding during the recession. In simultaneously being more open and The store’s interior is separated into particular, the Crystals at CityCenter Vegas and this is why we are spending more intimate than past stores. The new distinct areas for watches, bridal, and got off to a slow start upon its opening time, money and energy. I believe this is look was unveiled as Harry Winston is contemporary and high jewelry. There at the end of 2009, but de Narp said a market that will surely recover.” embarking on an aggressive expansion is a private room with a 30-foot cathe- that he’s been pleased with the perfor- After Las Vegas, Harry Winston is plan to grow its existing retail network dral ceiling, as well. mance of Harry Winston’s store there, turning its retail focus to China, where of 20 units to 50 within the next five The exterior lets people “know which has been in soft-launch mode for de Narp said “100 percent of the capi- years, including seven stores this year. what they are getting themselves into,” about six weeks. tal investment for new stores around “Clients have evolved, and they said Sofield. “In some ways, it is not The initial approach to the Crystals the world” would be spent this year. want something less intimidating and different from a dollhouse where you store was “to be conservative and give it The brand is opening three company- warmer,” said Frédéric de Narp, who can see a cross section of the world of two to three years to be at a good speed, owned stores in China this year. Dubai became chief executive officer and Harry Winston.” but after a month and a half, I can tell and Moscow will get Harry Winston president of Harry Winston in 2009 More than half of sales within Harry you we are much more ahead than we stores this year through partnerships. after holding the ceo post at Cartier Winston stores are typically from high budgeted,” said de Narp. Of Las Vegas Harry Winston stores average 1,500 to North America. “This is what we are jewelry, according to de Narp. One- generally, he added, the city “has been 2,000 square feet, although flagships creating with this [Las Vegas] salon third comes from bridal and the rest hurt big time, but I want to invest in can rise to 5,000 square feet.

004 WWDSTYLE XXXXXXXXX,MONDAY, FEBRUARY XXXXXXXX 7, 2011 XX, 2011 accessories

Thierry Lasry

Marni

Liquid Christian Roth Color Oliver What lies beneath? Peoples A treasure trove of colored shades. Here, a medley of transparent frames in a rainbow of hues. For lenses in the prettiest of pastels, see page 6.

Celine

Bond 07 by Selima Optique

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Seeking Clarity Gucci 3-D glasses. On 3-D Glasses

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

BRANDS ARE UNVEILING 3-D eyewear for spring, but so far the supply might be greater than the demand. Firms including Gucci, A|X Armani Exchange, Converse, Calvin Klein, Nautica and Oakley introduced 3-D eye- wear late last year with plans for addi- tional styles this year, but the technol- ogy the glasses use is still in its infancy for use in the home. Oakley 3-D glasses. There are two types of 3-D technol- ogy — passive and active, which is the current platform for 3-D viewing. This Smith, category director for 3-D optics at why fashion brands opted for this tech- means that electronics in the glasses Oakley. For example, the owner of an ac- nology. Passive glasses are also the ones sync to the TV, but caveats such as cost, tive 3-D Samsung TV can only watch with used in movie theaters. heavy frames and platform specific- glasses specific to that model. Passive The problem is there are very few ity make eyewear for this medium less glasses have no electronics in the glasses 3-D TVs on the market now, and these Joe Jonas in consumer friendly, according to Scott and can be made inexpensively, which is are extremely expensive. More manu- A|X Armani facturers are expected to launch pas- Exchange sive 3-D TVs later this year, but even 3-D glasses. then it will take some time for a criti- cal mass of sales to build, especially since there are only a handful of 3-D November, including a limited edition channels at the moment. The develop- “Tron: Legacy”-specific style that sold ment of 3-D appears to be similar to the through the weeks surrounding the mov- growth of the HD or flat-screen TV mar- ie’s premiere. kets. Even 3-D movies have had check- A|X Armani Exchange launched pas- ered success, with the most popular sive 3-D sunglasses in December for being the likes of “Avatar,” “Toy Story the holiday season, and the brand’s fall 3” and “Tron: Legacy,” rather than advertising campaign specifically used straightforward dramas or comedies. 3-D imagery to tie in with the debut of Higher manufacturing costs might its unisex navigator frames, comprising hinder sales initially, admitted Smith, gray plastic and black metal temples. but he believes the market will see slow, The $58 glasses are intended for movie steady growth this year and will actively theater use only and will be available in start to take shape in 2012. stores through the summer. “It’s taking people a while to Gucci also unveiled unisex passive 3-D jump into it. The early adopters have eyewear at the same time — a $225 aviator- jumped on the technology really style frame with signature red-and-green- quickly,” Smith said, adding that the striped detailing along the brow bar and big factor in driving 3-D eyewear sales temples of the frame, and Converse isn’t is how much 3-D content is readily far behind. It’s introducing a $59 limited available in homes. “As more content edition glow-in-the-dark pair. comes available and people inter- “It’s absolutely clear that passive act with it more, it will become more glasses are more convenient,” said prevalent in the home. It will just Vincent Teulade, a director at PWC with take a little while for the consumer to a focus in telecom media and technol- become more familiar with the tech- ogy. “The only thing is that passive TV nology. It’s just a matter of time.” For screens are more expensive. You need example, Marchon Eyewear has inked to put a polar film on the TV and it’s a a global licensing agreement with pas- sophisticated process. It’s more costly sive 3-D technology provider RealD than an active 3-D system.” Inc. for sales of the just-launched Matthew Brennesholtz, a senior ana- Marchon3D. The patented frames, in- lyst at Insight Media specializing in dis- cluding styles from Calvin Klein and play technology, said the next genera- Nautica, retail from $99 to $300. tion of 3-D TVs just entering the market “The new technology that’s being in- will require passive eyewear. troduced is passive and it’s being intro- The biggest draw for passive technol- duced to the market in televisions as well ogy eyewear is it will work on any brand as computers,” said Hannah Sarbin, vice of TV and in most 3-D movie theaters. president of new business development However, it might take a bit longer at Marchon Eyewear. “Our grandparents for smaller eyewear companies to de- saw movies in black and white, we watch velop their own styles of 3-D frames. movies in HD and my nieces and neph- “We are very excited about the explo- ews, in 3-D. This is the new realm.” sion of 3-D, but the reality is that cur- Oakley is another brand that’s al- rent technology is controlled by a few ready utilizing this concept, and all companies and we’re too small to buy a its 3-D offerings are compatible with license,” said Matthew Waldman, found- RealD’s passive 3-D technology. The er and chief creative officer of eyewear brand released its $120 3-D glasses in brand Nooka.

WWDSTYLE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 9 accessories·· Eva Gentry Creates Own Jewelry Line

By KRISTI GARCED a sterling silver and white diamond ring fashioned from an antique cuff NEW YORK — Eva and Gentry link. The collection will retail from Dayton, co-owners of Eva Gentry $120 to $3,000, and the duo plans to offer boutique and Eva Gentry custom-made jewelry in the future. Consignment in Boerum Hill, Asked if a new line would be produced Brooklyn, have launched their each season, Eva Dayton said: “We have the own jewelry designs luxury of making jewelry as with hope of a similar we get inspired. It doesn’t New ring offerings following. I just like simple have to have any rhyme or from BaubleBar.com. The collection fea- reason with anyone else’s tures diamonds, ci- schedule. We like to bring trine and other semi- jewelry — minimal, new things in when we get precious stones set in new clothing in, too. That’s silver and gold. Eva classic and easy. always fun.” Gentry jewelry cur- For now, the collection rently includes rings — EVA DAYTON will sell exclusively at the and earrings in re- Eva Gentry boutique — a configured antique gallery-like space with white settings and original brick walls, hardwood floors designs, and will expand to include and subtle Gothic details — alongside a necklaces and bracelets. roster of jewelry lines such as Philip “We found that everything out Crangi, Hoorsenbuhs, Ficalora, Annie there was really expensive for what Costello Brown and Rosa Maria. it is,” Eva Dayton explained on The store’s wares include ap- what prompted she and her hus- parel from Ann Demeulemeester, band’s move into design. “I just Rick Owens, Maison Martin Margiela, Ring It On like simple jewelry — minimal, Dries Van Noten and The Row and have SINCE LAUNCHING IN January, BaubleBar.com has quickly be- classic and easy. And I love stacking Jewelry from inspired a decade-long following by a come the go-to for some of the most beautiful — and affordable — — I love five rings on one finger, six Eva Gentry. devoted clientele. The couple plans to costume jewelry around. The company started with necklaces, ear- or seven bracelets on one wrist.” expand the boutique’s jewelry reper- rings and bracelets, and on Feb. 17 will be adding rings to the mix. Stud earrings cut in delicate, geo- toire even further: Gentry Dayton has The new ring styles, which retail from $64 to $84, range from minimal metric shapes are paired with stackable rings, collaborated·· with New York-based artist Wes and modern to those inspired by traditional Indian jewelry and to including an 18-karat yellow gold band with al- Lang on a separate jewelry collection for men Swarovski crystal pavé and quartz, set in 14-karat rose gold-plated ternating black and white diamonds — a best- and women that will bow at Eva Gentry in the sterling silver, as shown here. seller among brides-to-be. Another standout is coming months. — ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT 0010 WWDSTYLE MONDAY,XXXXXXXXX, FEBRUARY XXXXXXXX 7, 2011 XX, 2011

From top: Tumi’s Esplanade, Brooklyn, Akinada and accessories Severn styles. B Brian Atwood Steps Out MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY

By LAUREN BENET STEPHENSON Brian Atwood and model Danielle Zinaich SIX MONTHS AFTER signing a licens- in a Paris68 ing deal with The Jones Group Inc., dress and Brian Atwood is ready to launch his B Brian Atwood diffusion footwear collection, B Brian shoes. Atwood. The line is priced significantly lower than typical Brian Atwood footwear, but still manages to proj- ect Atwood’s penchant for glamour. B Brian Atwood shoes come in bright jewel tones, multicolored leopard prints and metallic fabrics on a pedes- tal of daring stiletto heels. Atwood said of the collection’s look, “I would definitely say there’s three kinds of aesthetics melted together: Upper East Side poshness, mixed with downtown cool, along with a Parisian so- Tumi phistication.” B Brian Atwood is priced at a lower price point (from $200 to $600) with the aim of introducing the Brian Atwood brand to a wider audience. Gets “This is definitely for a younger, broader market. I think that person is really hungry for fashion…but it could also be some of the same people who Shady are buying the main line, with a differ- ent use for it,” the designer said. IN THE PAST FEW YEARS, Tumi has This expanded consumer group was added belts, outerwear and electronics precisely what Richard Dickson, Jones’ (speakers, phone chargers) to its roster. president and chief executive offi cer of If it’s not already obvious, the company is branded businesses, hoped to reach by pushing a new message: There’s more to signing the B Brian Atwood license in Tumi than . It’s fitting, then, that August. Dickson said, “Brian Atwood has the firm is introducing eyewear for spring. added an infusion of energy and excite- “We’re moving the company forward ment to the Jones Group. I am confi dent as more of a lifestyle brand,” said Alan the introduction of B will be a success Krantzler, senior vice president of brand man- and our intention now is building Brian agement and merchandising. “Sunglasses into an important part of our portfolio were a natural fi t and progression.” for the future.” The Tumi approach to glasses, howev- Atwood began his own collection in er, puts the emphasis on technology. The 2001 while chief accessories designer fi rm partnered with German manufactur- at Versace. In 2004, he left Versace to er Carl Zeiss — it creates lenses for micro- devote his energies entirely to his own scopes, cameras and planetariums — for line. His fl edgling brand received a con- a custom Tumi ZR3 CR-39 polarized lens siderable publicity bump thanks to a that’s coated to repel dirt, dust, oil and dedicated celebrity following. water. “This goes back to the Tumi DNA,” “It was huge, especially in a so- Krantzler said, “which is about function-

ciety that’s so celebrity driven, it’s FOR TART RYAN KATE SUZY GERSTIN AT ERICKSEN; MAKEUP BY KYLE PHOTOS BY ality and technical innovation.” The debut collection, retailing from hugely important,” he said. “I do think $215 to $265, was inspired by bridges and people took notice, possibly quicker, is named Traverso, which is a take on the when it’s on Kate Hudson, Victoria Italian term attraversare, “to cross.” It’s a Beckham, all these people. It defi nitely play on words, Krantzler explains. “The gave it recognition.” bridge is the ultimate expression of form Atwood said of his recent work with and function, but there’s also the bridge Jones: “There’s defi nitely more on your of your sunglasses on your nose,” he said. plate, which is also very exciting. There Travel connotations, obviously core are so many endless possibilities to do to the Tumi brand, are also implicit, so with the B line and expanding it.” each of the 13 styles is christened after But after working for himself for 10 a different bridge around the world. The years, there were a few challenges with re- Akinada, for example, is made from an ul- spect to new manufacturers and time lines. tralight molded aluminum and named for “I’m used to working in Europe where a suspension bridge in Hiroshima, Japan, they can make it like that [he snaps his fi n- while the Brooklyn features acid-etching gers],” he explained. “I think that, with the patterns on a stainless-steel frame. lead time, and if there are any last-minute changes, Other design details were borrowed from B Brian you’re not really sure if they’re going to arrive.…But Tumi’s luggage, including accents shaped Atwood heels. Jones, they don’t waste time, they’re really quick at mov- like zipper pulls as well as rubber overmolds ing on with whatever it is.” on the temples. “We use that on [] B Brian Atwood will be available in stores such as handles,” said Krantzler of the latter, “so Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and Barneys Co-op, as they’re easy to grip on a wheel-away. We’re well as on ShopBop.com, beginning in mid-August. just taking elements from our core catego- “We are being very careful on where it’s placed,” he ries and applying them to the sunglasses.” said. “And we want it in this market, we want it to sell out, Even the cases for the new sunglasses we want people to kind of fi gure out where to get it.” focus on function. Made from the same With his fi rst licensed shoe collection behind him, ballistic nylon used on most of the compa- Atwood already has begun thinking of expansion. ny’s luggage, the cases fold completely fl at. “We’ve spoken about jewelry, handbags, ready- “We thought that was a great idea for trav- to-wear, but we won’t do that until we do it with elers,” Krantzler says. “People are looking the main line,” he added. “We started in shoes and to make their lives simpler and minimize it’s been a great experience so far.” what they carry.” — VENESSA LAU Naturally Inspired.

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Great Lengths Long straps make these cross-body bags easy, practical and superstylish for fall. And since they all retail for less than $200, shoppers might go for more than just one. Vince Camuto’s lambskin and metal bag.

Dooney & Bourke’s embossed leather bag.

Franco Sarto’s canvas bag.

Jessica Simpson’s PVC bag.

Nine West’s PVC and acrylic and polyester shearling bag.

Brahmin’s crocodile- embossed leather bag. PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF MITRA; STYLED BY ROBERT PHOTO BY Rose Gold Lace

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By KARYN MONGET ing, as well as every single component that embodies legwear for the consum- THE JONES GROUP will be intro- er to see. It all should look like it was ducing its first collection of legwear painted with one brush [with Jones and bearing the Jones New New York apparel],” said Bell. York label for fall. She added that the styling of the Jennifer Grey A licensing agreement was signed legwear lends itself to a sophisticat- opted for gold- last fall with Leg Apparel, a division ed “day-into-night” statement with a dusted legs in of Aimee Lynn Inc., to manufacture color palette of charcoal, chocolate, “Dancing With and distribute the legwear line. The black, navy and merlot, which will be the Stars” with legwear will be launched simultane- in the same color range as Jones New Derek Hough. ously with a handbag and a footwear York apparel for women. collection for fall by Jones New York, A first-year wholesale sales pro- which is being produced in-house, jection was not available, but sales said Mary Bell, president of licensing of the combined collections of tights, at The Jones Group. casual crew socks, trouser socks and “Jones has been dressing women for knee-highs could exceed $3 million, It’s All About success for over 40 years, and we felt according to industry estimates. now was our moment in time to bring Distribution will be aimed at depart- Celebrity Leg Work our customers the perfect handbag, ment stores nationwide that sell footwear and legwear to complement Jones New York products. A SELF-CONFESSED “LEG MAN,” the costume the perfect suit or dress.…We have Fabrics will include cashmere, designer of “Dancing With the Stars,” Randall a very close collaboration between angora, nylon spandex and cotton Christensen, says legwear is a number-one priority Barbara Corea and her team at Leg blends. Three themes will under- for celebs to look sexy while performing on the hit Apparel and our brand management score the legwear and collec- TV show. at Jones. We are creating a collection tions: floral patterns, lace looks and “We use a lot of dancing tights and sexy fishnet with colors, aesthetics, fit and packag- men’s wear-inspired textures and mo- tights — Capezio, those are always terrific and Bristol tifs. Legwear styles will be rendered Palin, Brandy, Mel B [Scary Spice], Erin Andrews and in opaques, flocked sheers, sexy back Niecy Nash just love them. But then a lot of celebs Jones New York’s seams with an opaque Cuban heel including Jennifer Grey, Brandy, Audrina Patridge, textured tights. and sweater-inspired looks including Nicole Scherzinger and Pamela Anderson like to cable patters and angora treatments. dance bare legged,” explained Christensen. “Our Barbara Corea, fashion director at Leg makeup lady, Melanie Mills, has developed an exclu- Apparel, said the opaque tights segment sive formula of bronze creams that give a wonderful is expected to generate the strongest shimmer highlight to the legs.…The lights bounce right off sales because of a special application. the legs. We also add a gold dusting to the legs just before “Our opaque tights will be infused a performance when the celebs are waiting in what we call [microencapsulated] with vitamin E the ‘celebquarium’ right before they go on.” and aloe vera, which will condition Christensen appeared on the “Rachael Ray” show and soften the skin,” said Corea. Thursday where Ray wore a red “Dancing With the Bell said the strategy is to “differ- Stars”-inspired dress as she danced a salsa with Tony entiate” the opaques from other of- Rachael Dovolani, a dance regular who coached Jennifer Lopez on ferings in the market. Ray’s ballroom dancing. “That [vitamin E and aloe vera] “Dancing “It was an asymmetrical dress with spirals of Swarovski will make a big difference for the With the crystals that elongated her legs. But she’s modest and wasn’t consumer,” said Bell. Stars”- comfortable with the slit on the front left side, so I sealed it Suggested retail for the tights is inspired with clear eyelash glue. She also loved that she had a bigger $15 to $20; crew socks are $9 to $18; salsa bust for a moment in the dress...I just went one size up from a knee-highs will be priced at $12, and dress. B to a C cup,” said Christensen, an Emmy-award winner and trouser socks will be sold in two-pair four-time nominee for this year’s Costume Designers Guild

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY packages for $12. Awards, which will take place Feb. 22. — K.M. ‘Love Your Assets’ Launches Online INVISTA INC. has launched a video series called “Love Your Assets” featuring body- An image from shaping solutions in legwear and shape- the “Love Your wear by Assets by Sara Blakely, a new Assets” video. brand created by the founder of Spanx. The three videos — which focus separately on the legs, midsection and derriere — also feature celebrity styl- ist Cher Coulter, who was named Stylist of the Year at the 2010 Hollywood Style Awards and has dressed stars such as Kate Bosworth, Sienna Miller, Orlando Bloom and Teresa Palmer. In the vid- eos, Coulter shares tips to help women dress to play up a part of their body they love the most, such as wearing a high-waisted belt on a dress to accen- tuate longer-looking legs and avoiding shoes with strappy ankle treatments count manager for legwear, said this is the first that cut the silhouette of the leg. time Invista is presenting a video with a celeb- LA LAME, Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics “Every woman should have a part of their rity stylist. body they love, and I want women to approach “This is the first video of this nature that their wardrobe and how they dress themselves Invista is sponsoring that incorporates prod- with a sense of joy and excitement,” said uct attributes as well as fashion tips and the STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS Coulter. “With some simple and realistic styling apparel that goes with it,” said Mackler. “And POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL advice that I use to dress my clients for red car- Lycra has been an ingredient of Spanx gar- GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS pets and magazine covers, I show that it’s easy ments since their inception.” NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES to dress your best, helping women love their The videos are being shown at YouTube.com/ favorite asset just a little bit more.” spanxinc. Valerie Mackler, Invista’s marketing ac- — K.M.

LA LAME, Inc. ADAM LARKEY/ABC VIA GETTY BY IMAGES “DANCING WITH THE STARS” RANDOLPH; LUIBA BY ILLUSTRATION RAY

16 WWDSTYLE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 media Greg Lauren Launches Fashion Collection Celebs Turn Out in Dallas

By DAVID LIPKE every piece is unique — and everything is hand- sewn by Lauren and a group of artisan sewers For Super Bowl Bashes ARTIST GREG LAUREN is launching a men’s he’s assembled in his Los Angeles studio-turned- DALLAS — Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher — along with a and women’s collection this month at stores production facility. horde of their Hollywood brethren — hit snowy Dallas for the such as Barneys New York, Maxfield in Los “Every single piece goes through my hands parties leading up to Super Bowl XLV. Moore, in YSL, and Angeles, Blake in Chicago, Linda Dresner at some point. I want the fingerprint of a Kutcher hit up the GQ-Lacoste-Cadillac bash on Friday, but in Birmingham, Mich., and Susan in human being on the clothing. It’s ex- dodged photographers because they had been paid to attend San Francisco. hausting, but we’re having a blast rival automaker Audi’s event the same evening, said sources. Lauren comes to the fashion world doing it,” said Lauren. The duo bopped their heads bearing a loaded last name: His uncle Prices range from $1,875 for to Cee-Lo Green’s energetic is Ralph Lauren and his father is a jacket made from old Army set at GQ, including the hits Jerry Lauren, executive vice presi- tents to $3,125 for a washed and “Crazy” and “Forget You.” dent of men’s design at Polo Ralph destroyed cashmere tuxedo Also on hand were Andy Lauren. But the 41-year-old artist- jacket with silk lapels. Roddick and Brooklyn turned-designer hardly set out Barneys will unveil a win- Decker, Joe Jonas, Randy to capitalize on the family name. dow at its Madison Avenue Jackson, Jessica Szohr, Rather, this retail collection is flagship dedicated to Lauren Adrian Grenier, Hayden more of an extension and evolution on Wednesday, and the de- Panettiere, Ryan Kwanten of Lauren’s paintings and paper signer will make a public ap- and former Super Bowl sculptures — which often explore pearance on Saturday. The champion Kurt Warner. True themes of identity and iconogra- collection will be carried in Blood’s Joe Manganiello phy — and less a strategic busi- the company’s New York, reminisced about meet- ness foray into the stores that sell Beverly Hills, Chicago and San ing his fiancée at the his uncle’s wares. Francisco stores, as well as at Commissioner’s Ball at the “Two-and-a-half years ago I barneys.com. It will be mer- 2009 Super Bowl, which the learned to sew in order to cre- chandised next to collections Steelers won — so he was ate ‘Alteration,’ an exhibit con- such as Lanvin, Balmain and again rooting for Pittsburgh. sisting of 40 sculptures of the Thom Browne. Roddick was pulling for most iconic men’s wear gar- “When I first saw the collec- Green Bay, as his father is a ments,” explained Lauren, who tion, I knew in a New York min- lifelong Packers fan. Neiman has a degree in art history from ute that this was something very Marcus’ Jim Gold was root- MICHAEL BUCKNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR AUDI PHOTO BY Princeton and spent his early postcollege special,” said Tom Kalenderian, ex- ing for the local team, how- Ashton Kutcher and Demi Moore at the years pursuing an acting career before ecutive vice president and general mer- ever. “I used to be a Giants Audi event on Friday. turning to art. “I was exploring the power- chandise manager of men’s and Chelsea fan, but now that I live in Dallas, I have to be a Cowboys fan. I ful archetypes that help shape our sense Passage at Barneys New York. “Each converted,” he confided. of self and image. That same desire piece is executed like a puzzle, and At ESPN the Magazine’s Next shindig, New York Yankee led me to want to create real clothes. at the end of the day, the clothes are Mark Teixeira arrived with teen rocker Nick Jonas, as the I just look at it as a new medium.” amazing and just look beautiful on.” two share a manager. Kid Rock performed a rollicking hour- The collection that Lauren cre- Kalenderian was so impressed long set and was joined by Rev. Run of Run DMC for a crowd- ated mostly comprises outerwear, with Lauren’s work at that first pleasing rendition of “Walk This Way.” Meanwhile, former Kim with many pieces fashioned from meeting that he brought Barneys Kardashian flame Reggie Bush of the New Orleans Saints de- repurposed vintage material, such chief executive officer Mark Lee clared himself “Single like a Pringle and ready to mingle.” as military duffel bags, sailor uni- to Lauren’s New York studio the Sports Illustrated returned to the Super Bowl festivities after forms and Army tents. Styles in- following day to meet with the two years away, with a major blowout featuring a performance clude blazers, tuxedo jackets and artist-cum-designer. by the Black Eyed Peas and guests like Hugh Jackman, Adrien field jackets, in both men’s and And what does the Lauren Brody and Mike “The Situation” Sorrentino. Playboy, a regular women’s silhouettes. Lauren’s clan think of the newest designer on the Super Bowl scene, recruited Snoop Dogg and Flo Rida wife, actress Elizabeth Berkley, in the family? “I think it’s great, as entertainment for guests including Chelsea Handler, Serena was the first recipient of one of and I believe it was inevitable,” Williams and notorious party crashers Tareq and Michaele the budding designer’s jackets, said Jerry Lauren. “Greg was al- Salahi, who were apparently actually invited this time. sewn with his own hands. ways brilliantly creative, and I On Saturday, GQ publisher Peter Hunsinger and Lacoste’s “I’m a bit obsessed with our watched him absorb my passion U.S. chief executive officer Steve Birkhold again teamed up universal obsession with military for quality, style and heritage. to host a steak dinner at Del Frisco’s, with guests including clothing — the idea that we all This is an extension of his art Chord Overstreet of “Glee” and Movado ceo Efraim Grinberg. want to look like soldiers, without and his own personal style born Overstreet then hopped in an SUV with his father and headed to actually being one,” he noted. from what he observed, and his the Maxim blowout. At Maxim, several thousand guests packed As the collection relies on The collection includes men’s and life in the studio, and reflects an indoors state fair, replete with Ferris wheel, bumper cars vintage fabrics that are re- women’s jackets fashioned from the themes and ideas he ex- and musical entertainment from Wyclef Jean and Jason Derulo. claimed and pieced together, vintage duffel bags and Army tents. plores in his artwork.” — D.L.

MEMO PAD to comment beyond this quote, which ROLLING ON: The Hard Rock Cafe has MUSICAL CHAIRS: There is some have reason to exist. Will hiring the Web originally ran Friday on observer.com. a new competitor in Rolling Stone. With reshuffling in the front row this fashion site’s original voice help change that? Spiers, who also didn’t respond by a restaurant on the way and a new deal week. Allure’s fashion director Michael He’s about to find out, as he’s tapped press time, has had a few different career signed with IMG, the magazine plans to Carl is moving over to Vanity Fair as Elizabeth Spiers to succeed Kyle Pope paths, from analyzing stocks for hedge extend its licensing business into new fashion market director just in time for as editor in chief. In a story that was funds and working as a tech consultant categories, including electronics and the New York shows next week. Treena posted around noontime at observer.com, to working at Gawker and becoming gaming and fashion-based products that Lombardo, who left W, where she was staffers found out they would have a new founder of Dead Horse Media, the blog are inspired by the magazine’s rock ’n’ roll market director, last June, is taking over editor, the fourth to come to the pink network behind Fashionista, Dealbreaker roots. During the past 40 years, Rolling his spot at Allure. Lombardo will officially paper in 20 months. Even though there and Above the Law. She also served as Stone has published books and calendars, start at Allure on Feb. 14. Meanwhile, W’s had been significant tension between editor in chief of Mediabistro.com and, in and licensing deals have been made for senior accessories-jewelry editor Talya Kushner and Pope for months, and print, she was a front-of-the-book editor sunglasses, posters and T-shirts. Cousins announced her departure from sources said Kushner had been looking for at New York magazine and a columnist A spokesman said the Los Angeles-based the magazine. She is joining Open Sky, the a new editor for some time, the shift still at Fortune. Insiders called her a talented restaurant, RSLA will open in a few months. free online shopping forum, as director of came as a surprise to the newsroom. editor who knows how to work with The 10,500-square-foot space was designed merchandising. — Marc Karimzadeh “I am very excited to be working with young writers. In the press, Kushner has by Gavin Brodin, who also worked on Crown Elizabeth to further build on the great said that the Observer could become Bar and The Abbey in West Hollywood. NO LONGER JUST GAWKING: Jared progress we have made over the past profitable this year. Pope, who also did Executive chef Christopher Ennis, formerly Kushner reportedly once said that if few years. She will be instrumental in not comment, will remain affiliated with of Fig & Olive, is planning an upscale staffers at the New York Observer were taking our print and online products to the the paper until the end of March. menu, but it hasn’t been posted yet on the doing their job right, Gawker wouldn’t next level,” said Kushner, who declined — Amy Wicks restaurant’s Web site. — A.W. WWDSTYLE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 17

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ eye eyescoop.

tall, in Wichita, strangers used to come up to her in stores like Dollar General and Sally’s Beauty Supplies to tell her she could be a model. “It just became clear to me,” Wixson says. Around the same time, she read an article in Reader’s Digest in the bathroom. “It was about how Bill Gates — the millionaires — got big,” she says. “It was talking about how they took the chance and they took their opportunities and they took it to a whole other level.” Now she is interested in acting or singing. She ad- mires Miuccia Prada’s business acumen. Wixson is focused on her career and says she has skipped the chance to party with the fashion set. “They let people party at a very young age,” she says. “I’m not into it, and it’s bad for my skin.” “Real success is not, like, materialistic,” she goes on. “It’s being where you want to be when you want to be; just living your life how you feel; having an ulti- mate goal and being able to accomplish it.” “For me right now,” she continues, “success will be getting a GED.” Wixson is too cool for school, in a good way. She’s not arrogant, but she sticks up for herself. (“Correction: I have boobs and I do eat on a regular and healthy basis [smiley face]” she wrote on Twitter eye to nobody in particular in January.) When she talks about her ambitions, she manages Lindsey Wixson on her way to come across as neither a delusional teenage girl nor to Jason Wu’s studio. an entitled young model. She doesn’t seem to be lost in her sudden fame and access, though she is certainly precocious. It’s hard to imagine any 16-year-old com- on 34th Street. Wixson is wearing a purple Anna Sui coat, plimenting Arizona Muse, 22, Anna Wintour’s favorite a scarf covered in silver sequins, skinny black jeans and model at the moment, for her “poise.” Lucky Lindsey! boots that she bought herself in Kansas. Bananto takes Wixson would be a junior in high school now, but a long-exposure photograph of the train pulling into the on her sister’s advice she decided to devote herself to {Continued from page one} station on his iPhone. He lives in Augusta, Kan., a suburb modeling instead of trying to juggle high school as a Galliano, Versace Vanitas, Miu Miu, Jill Stuart and 20 minutes north of Wichita, and plays the guitar. He sur- jet-lagged teen. Alexander McQueen have all booked her for campaigns. prised her that morning with a dozen roses. The couple “I usually need a teacher to give me examples, but This year promises to be bigger. met in a doughnut shop. She made the first move. I didn’t really get to have that when I was traveling,” Backstage at the Oscar de la Renta runway show in “I don’t really think of myself as being 16,” Wixson she says. the fall, a reporter for the blog Modelinia asked Wixson had admitted earlier that morning, sitting on a gray She was in accelerated math in middle school and which designer she would like to wear to the prom. sofa in her agent’s boyfriend’s apartment on East 3rd has always been an A-B student. She wants to get her “Jason Wu,” she said. “Oh my god, my friends would be, Street. Her right leg is crossed over her left, and she high school equivalency so that nobody will be able to like, how much did that cost? What? Like freaking out.” energetically bounces her dangling foot. “I think I’m in judge her for neglecting her education. Soon after, someone reached out to tell her that Wu the middle of 17 and 22. I don’t feel 16 at all.” Getting to the prom without being in high school would be happy to accommodate. The day before, she had done her first editorial might be a challenge. “I’m actually being taken by my Now, five months later, she is sitting across a nar- work for Vogue, a two-model shoot with . best friend Victoria,” she says. row table from the designer in the middle of his studio. “Everyone was really on top of everything. They “I plan on renting a limo,” Wixson says. “Even if I Spare electronic music plays over speakers. Wu, wear- have their own creative idea, and they all work to- can’t go to prom, I am still going to act like it’s prom, I’m ing a blue sweater and jeans, says that after the blog gether,” she says. “I think the most stressful shoots are still going to do prom things.” item ran, people kept asking him if it was true, and that when the crew doesn’t know what they’re doing and Back home in Wichita, Wixson is a normal teen. at least one other 16-year-old model was jealous. they’re unprepared.” She watches movies like “Zombieland” with her mom, “It will be my first prom dress,” Wu says. “I’ve done Cheri Bowen, her agent at the Marilyn Agency, says Michele, a school-bus driver. Her dad, Thomas, works all the other occasions, but I’ve never done a prom that Wixson was more interested in quality than quantity. installing satellite dishes. Her sister, Kirsten, is en- dress before.” “She’s incredibly intelligent about the business. gaged and plans to start a small farm in the lot next Nick Bananto, Wixson’s 18-year-old boyfriend, sits She’s not about selling out,” she says. to her house in Wichita, raising chickens and grow- at the end of the table watching quietly. It is his first When Wixson was 12 years old, and 5-feet, 7-inches ing vegetables and wild berries. Wixson got the gap in time in New York. He flew in from Kansas to meet up her teeth from her dad. They also share hand lotion with her when she got back after two weeks in Paris sometimes. for the couture shows and China, where she walked Wixson “He comes home and has beat up fingers and stuff,” for Prada. “You’re going to have the most glamorous walking in she says. prom dress, I promise,” says Wu. They brainstorm col- the Christian Her sister travels with her for work because her ors and a design. spring mom isn’t much of a traveler. “It’s a conflict of per- “So, like, a bustier, and then a double-shoulder thing, couture sonalities, honestly,” she says. But she brags about and a blue, kind of flowy dress,” Wu says, summing up 2011 show. her mom’s ability to shop at antique stores and thrift his vision. “I think that will be nice. Let’s do it.” shops, and haggle. She found a set of wheels for Wixson thanks him several times. Wixson’s 2003 Chrysler Sebring Convertible — a 16th “I’m so excited,” she says. “I’m so flattered.” birthday present to herself — for $100. The designer turns to the boyfriend. “What are you When Wixson was in the eighth grade, her math going to wear?” teacher told her to make a list of all the things she “Umm,” he says. He hadn’t thought about that. “A wanted to accomplish in 10 years. She wanted to be on tux,” Wixson answers, saving him from awkwardness. “America’s Next Top Model” — scratch that — and live “You’re gonna have to dress up and match her, be- somewhere exotic. Wixson hasn’t gone back to look at cause she’s gonna be really dressed up,” Wu says. The the list, but she keeps adding to it. She’s said before couple laughs politely. that she wants to be a chef. Wixson invites the designer to the prom before leav- “When I went home for Christmas, I was in the kitch- ing. “You can come. You’re totally welcome,” she says. en for three days straight. Making fudge, making cookies. “Cool,” says Wu. He says that he didn’t get to go to I made truffles,” she says, counting on her fingers. “I was his own prom in high school and promises to show her just in there all day, and I didn’t even eat lunch, I was the dress when she returns to town for fittings for New just in there cooking and cooking. I made spice bread.” York Fashion Week. He escorts them to the door, and And she wants to learn to fly before she’s 18. Wixson and Bananto say goodbye like polite teenagers “One, it’s better than sitting back in the back and from the Great Plains. not being able to see the whole view,” she says. “And I “It’s such an honor to be here,” Bananto says, shak- think it would be cool to just be able to fly wherever. If ing the designer’s hand. anything, you know, went wrong with the world, I could When Wu closes the door to his studio behind just fly away. them, Wixson takes a giant leaping skip toward the el- “I really like Amelia Earhart. She’s from Kansas,” evator and lands in a pose with one hip out to the side. she continues. “She disappeared, so I have to take She raises a celebratory fist in the air. her place. I want to be Dorothy. I want to be Amelia From Wu’s studio, the couple heads to catch the 2 train Earhart.…I want to do it all.” 0018 WWDSTYLE XXXXXXXXX,MONDAY, FEBRUARY XXXXXXXX 7, 2011 XX, 2011 innerwear Curve Expects More Fashion

By KARYN MONGET York, said Laurence Teinturier, execu- tive vice president of CurvExpo Inc. ATTENDANCE IS EXPECTED to be “The postrecessionary time is bring- strong at the CurveNV and CurveNY ing more retailers to the shows, and ev- trade fairs this month despite the eco- erybody has adapted and gotten better nomic climate. because of the recession. Brands have So far, preregistration is more than adapted and fashion is back after two 2,200 at both venues, the CurveNV show years of black, beige and white,” said in Las Vegas at The Venetian Hotel & Teinturier. “The turnout in Las Vegas Resort, which is scheduled Feb. 14 to is expected to be strong because it’s 17, and the CurveNY edition, which an established West Coast market, and An overview of will be staged Feb. 21 to 23 at the Jacob it’s Vegas — people have the occasion the CurveNY fair. K. Javits Convention Center in New to feel like they are on vacation for

three days and it’s inexpen- sive. You can get a Princess Suite at the Palazzo hotel for $169 a night.” The Las Vegas venue will feature 169 brands, of which 38 are new exhibi- tors, while the New York edition will showcase 221 brands, of which 30 are new to the show. A highlight of the Las Vegas show will be a fash- ion show at the Crazy Horse Paris nightclub at the MGM Grand Hotel on Feb. 15. Among the brands to be featured in the show are Wacoal, Amoena, Affinitas Intimates, Leonisa, Hanky Panky, Gerbe, Simone Perele, O. Eve, Body Wrap, Panache, Eveden, Huit, Parlak & Parlak, Daniel Hechter and Rhonda Shear. “We have a partnership with Crazy Horse, and the same 12 dancers who per- form at the club in Paris will be doing the Vegas show,” she said. Regarding the Manhattan venue, Teinturier said there will be a strong internation- al focus. “We are calling it a European invasion with brands such as La Fille d’O from Belgium, British Beautiful Bottoms, Jenny Packham and Playful Promises from the U.K., Emilie Cousteau of Paris, Les Chaussons de la Belle from Spain, Okha of Germany, Malgomargo of Poland, Zimmerli of Switzerland, and three Portuguese labels — Collove, Fiorima and Stress Out.” She further noted that the number of sleepwear exhibi- tors is also seeing “consid- erable growth.” New sleep- wear brands to the venue will be Coolbleu/Wildbleu, Dearfoams, Demimonde Intimates, Karen Neuberger and Laura Ashley. Among the highlights at CurveNY will be a cock- tail party at the French Lounge on Feb. 21 and a Philanthropic Auction on Feb. 22 benefiting Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, an initiative of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. A total of $20,000 of luxury goods will be do- nated by Curve exhibitors for the auction, she said. Lenzing AG, A-4860 Lenzing, Austria

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WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 5 WWD.COM ACCESSORIES head a 2008 project in which contemporary artists created baubles for an auction at the Whitney Gala. That experi- ence, he says, “got my feet wet in the jewelry world and sealed the deal for me.” His debut collection is made from 18-karat gold by Place La Vie en Rosado Vendôme jewelers; retail prices average $75,000 but reach BACK IN THE EIGHTIES, Wilfredo Rosado wore so much jewel- $1 million for custom designs. The sensibility, Rosado says, is in- A pendant ry that his former employer Giorgio Armani told him, “ Yo u look spired by his experiences at Armani and Warhol, creating a luxe from like Cleopatra.” From that point on, he stopped wearing baubles, mix of street savvy and the wicked. In his cameo series, the carv- Rosado’s but Rosado is now getting back into his old routine — his debut ings include licking lips and a seminude fi gure with a gemstone Blackamoor collection of fine jewelry is launching this week. placed strategically over her nipple. For his ebony series. Rosado’s career, however, is not as he originally pieces, Rosado modernizes the traditional intended. He had goals to become, of all things, a gy- Venetian Blackamoor sculptures with a hip- necologist when kismet set him on a different track. hop slant. “Blackamoor always depicted One summer in the early Eighties, during his pre- traditional North African people,” he med studies at New York University, he was working explains. “[My characters] are wearing at hip downtown boutique Parachute. While there, tank tops and rope chains.” The pen- he caught the eye of Gabriella Forte, then an Armani dants also don crowns worn askew exec, who immediately recruited him to work at the “like a homeboy wearing a baseball

designer’s fi rst New York fl agship. Happenstance cap.” Other motifs range from gold struck again when, on the Armani sales fl oor, Andy fringe cuffs dotted with diamonds

Warhol took a liking to the young New Jersey na- to cage-shape rings inspired by a MITRA tive. “He walked into the store, said he wanted to see gold molecule’s tetragonal shape. me up close and then just turned and walked away,” But perhaps the most exquisite ROBERT Rosado, 45, recalls. “Two days later, he came back and theme revolves around Rosado’s BY asked me to dinner.” (Needless to say, he never went Wilfredo avian story, which riffs on feath- back to school.) Rosado ered roach clips worn by club girls in Dinner happened, at the Odeon in TriBeCa — the Eighties. Necklaces and cuffs are Warhol drank vodka — and a friendship soon blos- topped with dramatic splays of real somed. Rosado began working at Interview magazine and spent quills from Maison Lemarié, which, with the turn of a weekends painting canvases at the artist’s factory on 32nd Street. screw can be customized, removed or substituted with But the Italians were never far from the picture: Rosado took on an additional pavé diamond plate. But any old screw-

a side gig for Armani, whipping up trend reports on the New York driver just won’t do: Rosado designed one of his own, THOMAS IANNACCONE; PENDANT scene. When Warhol died in 1987, Rosado went back to full-time at elegantly embellished with a feather, to accompany the BY Armani, eventually becoming the company’s U.S. fashion director. convertible pieces.

He left that post in 2007 and was then hired by Versace to spear- — VENESSA LAU ROSADO

Anya Hindmarch’s FOR MORE calfskin bag. ACCESSORIES, SEE WWD.com/ fashion-news

Kara by Kara Ross’ 14-karat gold-plated metal, python and lizard-skin necklaces.

Edmundo Castillo’s suede and pony hair shoe.

Pamela Love’s bronze cuff. First Dibs With New York Fashion JOHN AQUINO

Week just days away, BY Jean-Michel accessories designers are Cazabat’s gearing up for their fall leather boot. debuts. Here, a preview of some of the season’s EDMUNDO CASTILLO

best accoutrements. MITRA; — Shoshanna Fischhoff ROBERT Amanda Pearl’s satin and cotton clutch. BY PHOTOS 6 WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 WWD.COM Arnault Aims to Ease Hermès Tensions

{Continued from page one} vineyard Château d’Yquem in 1999, it re- director of the saddle and leather métier, Carcelle said Vuitton would open fewer a video montage of men and women cut- inforced the sweet dessert wine’s upscale would join the executive committee and than 10 new locations this year, and ting leather, driving nails into trunks, reputation and didn’t start producing become chief operating officer; while greatly expand the scale of its boutiques carving wood and massaging labels onto “T-shirts and other horrendous things.” Guillaume de Seynes, executive vice in Rome, Cannes and Munich. “We want Champagne bottles. And he trumpeted Arnault clarified that LVMH has not president, would head a new production to offer increasingly luxurious premises Louis Vuitton’s unique business model, purchased any more shares in Hermès and participations division including all for our customers,” he said. with no licenses, no discounts and large, since the disclosure in December that leather and textile manufacturing. Asia continued to drive luxury sales impressive stores before which tourists the company had increased its stake to Gains on its investment in Hermès, at LVMH, with sales there advancing 20 frequently pose for vacation snaps. 20.2 percent. He also stressed that LVMH achieved through cash-settled equity percent in local currencies, compared “No other luxury company has this swaps the AMF is also scrutinizing, and a with 14 percent for the U.S., except- elite strategy,” he said. “We never have favorable currency environment padded ing Hawaii, and 12 percent for Europe. duty free shops in airports like other out LVMH’s net profit last year, which Stagnant Japan logged a 5 percent de- brands.” rose 72.7 percent to 3.03 billion euros, or cline in local currencies, with a slight Hermès operates 46 stores in airport $4.03 billion. It would have risen 30 per- improvement in the fourth quarter. locations, according to a tally of those cent without the Hermès transactions. The French group ended 2010 with a listed on the firm’s Web site. Profits from recurring operations debt-to-equity ratio of 15 percent and a Arnault later acknowledged Vuitton rose 29 percent to 4.32 billion euros, or free cash flow of 3.07 billion euros, or products are sold at one airport location, $5.74 billion. Dividends are to increase $4.22 billion at current exchange. Still, Seoul’s Incheon, yet he characterized it 27 percent. Arnault downplayed the likelihood of as an anomaly LVMH inherited when it Dollar figures are converted from acquisitions, reiterating LVMH’s strat- took control of Vuitton. euros at average exchange rates for the egy to invest heavily in its high poten- During the meeting, Arnault deflect- periods to which they refer. tial brands. Asked about its second-tier ed repeated queries about the compat- Revenues for the full year advanced fashion brands, the luxury titan high- ibility of LVMH’s corporate culture and 19.2 percent to 20.32 billion euros, or lighted strong results at Celine and that of Hermès. “I find it pointless to $26.98 billion, touted as a record level. Loewe, and said there were no plans for compare cultures. It’s like asking, ‘Do Sales in the three months ended Dec. 31 disposals. you prefer Victor Hugo or Molière?’ jumped 19.6 percent to 6.11 billion euros, LVMH stock closed Friday down 2.4 They’re different writers, you can’t com- or $8.33 billion. Friday’s results were percent to 114.05 euros, or $154.80 at cur- pare,” he retorted. slightly ahead of consensus expectations. rent exchange. What’s more, he touted the decentral- Arnault said January business has ac- Separately on Friday, Christian Dior ized nature of LVMH — “more like a con- celerated from 2010’s pace, bolstering his SA, parent of LVMH and Christian Dior stellation than a federation” of brands Bernard Arnault optimism for smooth sailing for the luxu- Couture, reported results that under- — and stressed, “We can guarantee the ry business for the next few years. score the strength of luxury’s rebound. preservation of [Hermès’] culture in the “We certainly expect 2011 to be as Revenues at the Dior fashion house long term.” has no plans to exit from its investment. good a year as 2010,” he said. “We have grew 15 percent in 2010 to 826 million Despite his reputation as one of the Hermès declined to comment on reasons to be optimistic. Ever since 2010, euros, or $1.1 billion, while profits vault- business world’s shrewdest financial Arnault’s various declarations, but the we have entered into a new economic ed 169.2 percent to 35 million euros, or strategists, Arnault painted himself at company has repeatedly characterized cycle…a resumption of growth.” $46.5 million. the meeting as someone easily befuddled LVMH’s investment as unwelcome. Last year, all business groups logged Sidney Toledano, Dior’s president by the complexities of currency gyrations Hermès’ family shareholders plan to double-digit gains: 12.2 percent for per- and ceo, said a stronger full-price busi- and financial instruments such as the eq- group 50.2 percent of its capital into a fumes and cosmetics; 18.6 percent for ness and less reliance on the wholesale uity swaps that landed him a command- nonlisted holding company in order to selective retailing; 19 percent for wines channel improved Dior’s gross margins. ing chunk of Hermès. fend off a potential takeover bid. The and spirits; 20.3 percent for fashion Sales in Dior’s own boutiques advanced “Day in, day out, we focus on high- move has been green-lighted by France’s and leather goods, and 28.9 percent for 22 percent last year, or 16 percent at con-

quality products,” he said. “The financial stock market regulator AMF, but is being watches and jewelry, which doubled op- stant exchange. DOMINIQUE MAITRE performance is the logical outcome.” appealed by minority shareholders. erating profits. Toledano cited strength across wom- BY And to wave off any lingering percep- Also on Friday, Hermès announced The pivotal Vuitton brand, which ac- en’s and men’s ready-to-wear and leather tions that LVMH is a money-hungry mar- a reorganization of its executive com- counts for about half the group’s earn- goods, with the brand’s New Look and keter, he reminded the audience that mittee, elevating two family members. ings, posted double-digit gains through- Granville bags emerging as “new pillars”

when the group bought famed Sauternes It said Axel Dumas, currently managing out 2010. Chief executive officer Yves beside the perennial Lady Dior bag. PHOTO ARNAULT Nigo Opens Up About Bape By KELLY WETHERILLE lection of vintage toys, art, pop of things I wasn’t able to con- culture artifacts and designer trol on my own increased, so I TOKYO — Nigo, the fashion furniture. A statue of Colonel started looking for a partner.” and music impresario who Sanders greets visitors at the Nigo said sales for the year founded Japanese street label entrance, and the space down- ended Aug. 31 totaled about 5 A Bathing Ape, openly admits stairs houses no less than a billion yen, or $55.5 million. He he’s never really had a head vintage Coca-Cola vending ma- said sales peaked in the 2006

for business. That partially ex- chine, a jukebox, a giant Apple to 2007 period, when Nowhere A w plains why Hong Kong-based re- Computer logo sign in neon was registering an annual vol- A g A tailer I.T Ltd. managed to snap lights and a series of paintings ume of about 7.5 billion yen, or k A up 90 percent of his company by New York-based artist Kaws $63 million. N A s

Nowhere Co. for just 230 mil- featuring the Simpsons charac- In April 2009, Nigo stepped A k lion Japanese yen, or $2.8 mil- ters with missing eyes. down as president and director U Ts BY

lion at average exchange rates. “Basically, I can’t do busi- of Nowhere in an effort to bring The company, which owns the ness. I’m not suited for it. I wish in more formal management, Nigo brand known as Bape, has post- I had had a partner on the busi- but that was a short-lived ar- PHOTO ed losses for the past two fis- ness side from the beginning,” rangement and he resumed his cal years and has racked up its said a surprisingly upbeat Nigo, role at the helm of the company coffers separate. Nigo thinks I.T is the best com- share of debt. whose real name is Tomoaki only a few months later. Nowhere had net liabilities pany to grow the brand. Over Although Nigo downplayed Nagao. The music and fash- I.T has said Nowhere posted a of 1.25 billion yen, or $13.88 mil- recent years, Bape’s popular- the severity of Nowhere’s finan- ion impresario said he always loss of 267.43 million yen, or $2.78 lion, as of Aug. 31. Also, I.T is ity has grown tremendously in cial situation — even to the ex- thought he would sell the com- million, for the fiscal year ended taking on about 4.31 billion yen, China, even as the buzz has died tent that he denied the company pany he incorporated in 1995. Aug. 31, 2009, and a loss of 119.05 or $52.79 million, of Nowhere’s down in Japan. is actually losing money — he “I turned 40 [last million yen, or $1.32 million, for outstanding bank loans and Nigo has agreed to serve I.T acknowledged that dealing with December], there was the turn- the year ended Aug. 31, 2010. shop leases. as Bape’s creative director for the administrative side of run- ing point of the brand reaching Dollar figures were converted at “I definitely didn’t want an initial period of two years, ning a business has never been nearly 20 years since its estab- average exchange rates for the to file [for bankruptcy] under but he said he hopes his involve- his strong suit. lishment, and I think I made periods to which they refer. the Civil Rehabilitation Law, ment continues beyond that. “The company itself wasn’t a forward-looking choice,” But Nigo expressed a differ- and I didn’t want to damage In addition to his new role in a very dire situation, but in he said, acknowledging the ent take on the numbers. “The the brand,” Nigo said. “I had a in I.T’s Nowhere, Nigo said he the end I spent so much time brand’s popularity in Japan accounting base is different, so strong feeling that I wanted the would continue working on his looking after the management has faded in recent years. I don’t think we made a loss. brand to survive, so the main other projects, including his side that I wasn’t really able to “About two or three years ago It’s difficult [to say]. But I never thing was thinking what to do partnership with singer-pro- do design,” he told WWD dur- the brand and the company got missed payments or delayed about that. I spent 20 years ducer Pharrell Williams on the ing an interview at his personal too big for me to handle, plus paying employees’ salaries,” he building it up, so it would be a Billionaire Boys Club and Ice atelier, packed with what is only there was the problem with said, adding he’s kept his per- real shame for it to disappear.” Cream brands, which are part of a portion of his extensive col- the economy, and the number sonal fortune and the company’s As for the future of Bape, a separate venture. WWD MONDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2011 7 WWD.COM

it’s taken in Phase Eight, but Winston Ginsberg, DANGEROUS CURVES: Hervé Léger by Max the fund’s managing director, described it as Azria is the Mercedes-Benz Presents label of the “a significant investment.” The transaction is fall season at Lincoln Center’s New York Fashion Fashion scoops expected to close later this month. Week. What that means is Mercedes-Benz is Phase Eight is a midmarket women’s fashion subsidizing the Hérve Léger show at Lincoln WILD THING: Dior Joaillerie’s creative director of the Year” award at the Liaison Capitol Hill retailer, with 88 boutiques and 143 concessions Center, and, during shows, a selection of Léger Victoire de Castellane evoked poisonous hotel. “This is something that will be out across the U.K. and Ireland. The retailer, bandage dresses will be displayed around the plants for her psychedelic Belladone Island there for a long time. There is a lot of work to which describes its designs as “elegant but 2012 Mercedes-Benz CLS 63 AMG. be done in Haiti and my heart is there.” collection for the French brand in 2007. Now, for contemporary,” was founded a side project with the Gagosian Gallery in Paris, in 1979. KIM CAN: Thursday was just another work night de Castellane has cultivated another unique for the ubiquitous Kim Kardashian, who made batch of precious blooms, with 10 transformable GOOD OLE U.S.A.: At least an appearance with mom Kris Jenner at Revolve hybrid jewelry objects. Dubbed fleurs d’excès, or one person is not sold on Clothing’s Melrose Avenue store to mark the flowers of excess, the pieces will be on show at the Far East as the new launch of her jewelry line Belle Noel. “It’s always the gallery March 3 to 26. frontier. “I do not believe in good to start off strong and we’ve had lots of Asia anymore,” said Jean DONNA TO THE RESCUE: Donna Karan was preorders,” said Kardashian, who was decked Touitou, founder and owner called the driving force behind “Hope Help out in leather leggings and a pair of steel-toe of French contemporary & Relief Haiti,” as she was feted Thursday Louboutin pumps. She also took the opportunity brand A.P.C. “I know people night in the nation’s capital by ShelterBox to pile on some of her favorite pieces from the are crazy for China, but I’m USA, a U.K.-based charity that, with her line, including a dagger pendant and palladium help, has provided 35,000 tents and 28,000 not at all. And Japan, for ring that she called “the perfect mixture of edgy survival kits to the victims of the devastating fashion — it’s a dead, dead earthquake in Haiti last January. and glam.” Pascal Mouawad, whose company country.” “In the U.K., we have the royalty and that manufactures the line, described Kardashian Which is why Touitou Two A.P.C. stores are opening in New York’s West Village. is our celebrity world,” said Tom Henderson, as “a great businesswoman who knows what is putting his money in founder and chief executive officer of the she wants and what she likes.” He said the America, New York City’s charity. “Our patron, Camilla Parker- collection, retailing from $13 for a pair of stud West Village, specifically, where he’s opening two GOING TWICE, GONE: Luxury titan François Bowles, [the Duchess of Cornwall and wife earrings to $179 for gold statement necklaces of Prince Charles], is very understated. stores. The first, called A.P.C. Specials, opens Pinault — via his private investment holding We don’t have the same level of celebrity would expand from 50 to 150 pieces by the end Tuesday at 92 Perry Street, with a twist on the company Artémis — has sold a 40 percent stake awareness you have here in the States, so of the year. standard store concept. Specials will house in the Piasa auction house to Financière Piasa. Its to get into the fashion industry with Donna Kardashian said the fall collection would novelty items, such as quilts made from archived investors include former Hermès executive vice Karan is wonderful.” have more of a “vintage” feel to it, drawing on fabrics, as well as overstock from seasons past, president Christian Blanckaert, former PPR chief The “Hope” initiative was formed by her mother’s pieces and things she wore as a to be priced at a discount. The second store, executive officer Serge Weinberg and socialist Karan and her Urban Zen Foundation, music child. Belle Noel is sold in Bloomingdale’s and executive Andrew Harrell, hotelier André opening in the summer a few blocks away at politician Laurent Fabius. Terms of the deal were Nordstrom, the three Dash boutiques as well as Balazs and The Mary J. Blige and Steve 267 West 4th Street, will sell the full men’s not disclosed. Pinault had already sold a 60 Stoute Foundation for the Advancement of internationally. and women’s collections. That will make three percent stake in Piasa to Financière Piasa in Women Now. The initiative with ShelterBox New York stores for the company. A.P.C. opened May 2008. Piasa, France’s fourth-largest auction has raised about $900,000, noted TOWERBROOK INVESTS IN PHASE EIGHT: its first store on Mercer Street in 1993, but, house, registered 2010 sales of 45 million euros, Henderson, adding that Karan’s involvement TowerBrook Capital Partners LP, the private like Asia, Touitou is over SoHo. “I don’t love or $59.8 million at average exchange, up 37.6 has taken the charity’s effort to a new level. equity fund that owns Jimmy Choo, has invested “Hopefully, we will bring awareness to the what’s going around there anymore,” he says. percent on-year. Pinault remains the owner of in British women’s wear retailer Phase Eight. fact this is not a one-night stand,” said Karan “There’s too many chains and there’s not much Christie’s auction business, which he acquired in before receiving the charity’s “Humanitarian TowerBrook did not disclose the size of the stake personality. It’s a shopping mall situation.” 1998 for approximately $1.2 billion.

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