a guide for young travellers

guten tag! Tom Thrower | Senior Writer

This guide is aimed at you. Yes, you, the person reading this guide right now. You want to know about , the best museums and sights to see? The best places to get a bite to eat, and sample some of ’s fine beer? The places to indulge in a spot of retail therapy, and the get a good nights sleep? Well you have come to the right place, as ‘Berlin There, Done That...’ a brief ... is tailor made to giving you all the Tom Thrower | Senior Writer best advice. Meaning you can make the most of your stay in Germany’s Berlin is a city with a deep and as The Great Elector (1640-1688), capital city. intriguing history. Founded jointly who turned the town’s fortunes how to use this guide with Cölln in 1237, the two were around. He replenished the town’s trading posts and were merged into population, inviting all the oppressed The district each attraction is located one town in 1307. Berlin’s fascination religious minorities of to in has been indicated using one of the with bears started in 1280 with its live in Berlin – especially the French coloured dots listed below: town seal. It increased in size and Huguenots. This, and the town’s Mitte Neukolln importance over the centuries, in economic growth, brought the Prentzlauer Berg 1400 around 8,500 lived there and in town’s population to 22,000. He Friedrichshain 1500 it was 12,000 – it was prospering. also fortified the town’s defences, Wilmerdom Then came the Thirty Years War (1618- built roads, canals and started the Lichtenburg Out of city-limit 1648), Berlin tried to stay neutral development of . Schönenberg but that plan failed, as both sides The town’s stature really grew when Steglitz-Zehlendorf pillaged, looted and generally ruined Elector Friedrich III (1688-1701) gave Deciding where to eat out on a budget the town. Afterwards Berlin was himself a little present and made can be difficult, that’s why we’ve devised broke, ruined, starving, swarming himself King of Prussia in 1701, a price scale based on an average meal, with disease and its population had making Berlin the royal residence detailed below: plummuted to 6,000. and the capital city. € = €0-€2 €€€€ = €10-€15 In came Friedrich Wilhelm, known Architecturally, Berlin beautification €€ = €2-€5 €€€€€ = €15+ €€€ = €5-€10 berlin there, done that... | history | 5 really started during Friedrich and political turmoil ensued. growth, Berlin’s international power II’s reign (1740-1786), known as Although Napoleon did give Berlin grew – as it sought to expand its Frederick the Great. The Staatsoper a form of self governance – which empire and achieve its ‘rightful’ (State Opera House), St Hedwigs was followed up by mere token place in the sun. All the friction, Kathedral and Humboldt Universität reforms, eventually culminating in antagonism, conflicting alliances (Humboldt University) were all the ultimately doomed, and quite and the nautical arms race with erected in his reign as part of his bloody, revolution for democracy Britain resulted in WWI – which had vision for Unter den Linden –the in 1848. The early 19th century was serious consequences for Berlin and most famous street in Berlin. As well the age of the classically inspired Germany. The democratic Weimar as architecture, and the inevitable architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel. He Republic was one, but painful fondness for war that all Prussian designed the Neue Wache (New hyper inflation was another – in rulers shared, he embraced the Guard House), the Konzerthaus Septmber 1923 a kilo of rye bread ideas of the enlightenment. He (Concert Hall) as well as the famous was 3,600,000 million marks! Just to America and the Soviets waging on, abolished torture, guaranteed (Old Museum) – give that figure some perspective, Berlin became its frontline – with the religious freedom, and introduced playing a big part in shaping modern the following month $1 was worth assembled on August 13th legal reforms. As well as this he was day Berlin. 4,200,000 marks. 1961. The acrimonious state of affairs a major connoisseur of the arts, and Berlin became the capital of a unified Up untill 1929, Berlin was booming remained relatively unchanged till a fanatical fan of the flute – Berlin Germany in 1871; the Deutsches – it experienced a cultural and the 1980s, when Russian leader became a capital of culture in this Reich was born (German Empire). artistic heyday that lasted untill the Gorbachev and U.S. president era, a precursor almost to the 1920s. It grew in size dramatically, with American stock market crash of Reagan made real efforts to ending During Friedrich Wilhelm III’s reign a population of 400,000 in 1847, 1929. The economic disaster saw 664 the feud. Resulting in that fateful (1797-1840) Napoleon occupied 931,984 in 1871, and 1,900,000 in Berlin businesses go bankrupt and moment, November 9th 1989, when Berlin for three years – and economic 1900. Alongside this population 450,000 thousand people lose their the wall fell – unfortunately, though, jobs in February alone. Protests, riots to the tune of the horrendously and political clashes ensued with the cheesy ‘Looking for Freedom’ by Nazi party rising to power in 1932. David Hasselhoff. They subjugated, oppressed and Germany was reunified in 1990, a murdered whole sections of society; common currency and economic anyone with a left wing viewpoint union came in July and the GDR or affiliation, Jews, homosexuals, collapsed in October. In the same gypsies – banning trade unions and month the public voted for Berlin to removing Jewish people from the be the country’s capital, and for the civil service for example. Hitler undid Government to be based there. From all of the liberalisation of society that then on Berlin became the modern, was achieved in the 1920s, and lead liberal and sprawling metropolis Germany to a ruinous war. we know today, a metropolis with Post 1945 Berlin was a divided city, 3,500,000 million inhabitants and – France, Britain and America got the the fact you’ve been waiting to hear West, and the Soviet Union got the – 1,700 bridges! east. With the Cold War between

berlin there, done that... | history | 7 a guide to berlin’s Verónica Terriente Berlin’s local transport will make your experience in the city much easier. With its extended system you will be able to travel safely and cheaply to all the most important places.

The BVG (Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe), Berlin’s transport authority, operates bus, underground U-Bahn and networks. The S-Bahn (overground railway) is run by its own authority, but services are integrated within the same three-zone tariff system. tickets + fares one-day-ticket There are three different pay zones. This allows travel throughout the Zone A covers all areas within the whole day for as many trips as S-Bahn and Zone B goes to Berlin’s desired. The ticket is valid from the city limits. Zone C covers Berlin’s day of its validation until 03:00 the nearby surrounding areas such as following day and costs €6.70 in tariff Schönefeld Airport or . You zone AB, reduced €4.70. can get a combined ticket covering zones AB, BC and ABC. seven-day-ticket This counts for seven consecutive To buy your tickets you can use one days from the day of its validation. of the many BVG and S-Bahn Berlin The ticket costs €28.80. Its validation ticket selling areas or the machines ends on the seventh day at midnight. in the stations, which are available in six languages (German, English, small-group-day-ticket French, Spanish, Turkish and Polish). This allows up to 5 people to use all Don’t forget to validate your ticket in public transportation services until the small yellow or red box next to 03:00 the following day. The small- the machine, which stamps it with group day ticket costs €16.20 in tariff the time and date. Tickets bought zone AB. on or buses are usually already validated. Berlin WelcomeCard This offers free travel on public Single €1.50 transport in Berlin AB zones or Single AB €2.60 ABC zones in Berlin and Potsdam. This includes numerous discounts Single BC €2.90 at many of the cultural and tourist Single ABC €3.20 highlights.

berlin there, done that... | transport | 9 info + maps Taxi Fares to Schönefeld Airport: For both BVG and S-Bahn you will From City West (Station Zoo): find any information you may need €38 approx. on their website. There is usually From City East (): someone who speaks English at the €38 approx. 24 hour BVG Call Centre (19449) or Taxi Fares to Tegel Airport: visit: From City West (Station Zoo): www.bvg.de €20 approx. www.s-bahn-berlin.de From City East (Alexanderplatz): €25 approx. A map can become your ‘best friend’ if you are not that good at Some taxi telephone numbers are: orientation. They can be picked (030) 44 33 22 Taxi Funk Berlin up for free at ticket offices or from (030) 26 10 26 Funk Taxi Berlin the grey-uniformed Zugabfertiger (030) 26 30 00 Quality Taxi (Passenger Assistance Personnel) (030) 21 01 01 Würfelfunk who wander about the larger U-Bahn (030) 21 02 02 City Funk and S-Bahn stations. getting to + from the airports travelling at night Tegel Berlin has an ample night-line This airport is connected with the network that covers all parts of town city centre by 4 bus routes: with 59 bus and tram routes running JetExpressBuss TXL - running every every 30 minutes between 00:30 and 15 or 20 minutes depending on the 4:30. Before and after these times hours, for €3 approx. the regular timetable for bus and tram routes applies. Express X9 and Lines 128 + 109 - running every 15 minutes and taxis connecting you with the main Berlin has compulsory tariffs for all underground stations. taxis. Within the city area, passengers must pay the fare according to the Schönefeld meter but in case you travel beyond The most comfortable way to get the city borders you can agree a to the city centre is with the Airport price with the driver, except for Express train. The lines RE4 and RE5 Schönefeld Airport. will take you to the Central Station every 30 minutes for €3. Or, take the S-Bahn lines and , running every 40 minutes. The Shuttle Bus (€3), or the Lines 100 + 200, are the most used by tourists. 10 | transport | berlin there, done that... survival guide to berlin Samantha Sullivan + Sally Elliot do’s + don’ts where to go DON’T expect to pay with a debit or Mitte credit card at restaurants or small The most central of 12 districts and shops – keep some cash on you. home to some of the most important historical points of the city (The DON’T vandalise – the city is littered Brandenberg Gate, The Reichstag, with so much graffiti that people Alexanderplatz and ). assume it’s legal – it’s not! Charlottenberg DO bring student ID – you’ll get Filled with upmarket shops and discounts on public transport, restaurants, come here for a more activities and at most museums and sophisticated occasion. galleries. Kreuzberg DO bring comfortable shoes – Berlin Edgy and lively. The best place for is a huge city. nightlife and vintage shopping, and DO validate your travel card – even the hipster hub of the city. if you have a ticket, fines and public Freidrichshain humiliation are both possible if it Filled with students, this punchy hasn’t been validated. and exciting district is one of the cheapest to eat and drink. when to go Berlin is lively all year round, but what to eat particularly busy through the This city is full of variety and you’ll summer months. For a less tourist find delicious fast food vendors and crammed experience try April, May reasonably priced restaurants to or September. The weather is not choose from all over. as predictable but it tends to be reasonably warm with averages of There’s something to suit everyone 15-19⁰C. but be sure to try the legendary Currywurst and a Döner Kebab. Christmas is also a fantastic time to These dishes are sold all over the city, visit – winter markets and beautiful and they’re filling, tasty and cheap! lights brighten the city. But don’t expect the Caribbean – Berlin is Vegetarians won’t struggle to find a cold at this time of year and snow is substantial variety either. There’s no possible. rush to eat – some fast food joints are open 24/7.

berlin there, done that... | survival guide | 13 berlin’s quiet time Berliner Bank etc.) which are usually Tuesdays to Saturdays are a bustling open 24/7 and much safer than frenzy city-wide. Sundays see outlying machines. shortened hours for shopping malls Average prices and supermarkets are closed. Kebab €3 While shops are back in business by Currywurst €2 Monday, museums and galleries are Water €1.20 more often open on Sundays and Club Entry €5 - €10 closed on Mondays, so check out Museum Entry €5 - €10 Museum Island or nearby parks. Single public transport journey (120 minutes) getting around Adult €2.60 Public transport here is simple, Student €1.60 cheap, reliable and user-friendly. Check out our ‘Guide to Berlin’s phones + numbers public transport’ for advice on Trams, The international dialling code for U-bahn, S-bahn, and bus services. Germany is 0049. The area code for Berlin is (0)30. Alternatively, if you’re feeling fit, most places within the central circuit Dial 0044 for the UK and 001 for USA. can be cycled to within 30 minutes. A If you’re sticking around for more push bike can be hired by the minute than a week, it may be worth from 50 ‘call a bike’ locations around getting a German SIM card for your the city centre. They cost 8 cents per mobile phone (only if your phone is minute and reach a maximum of €12 unlocked), this will tend to let you per day. send cheaper texts and phone calls. If you’re around for a while, head to SIM Cards can be purchased at Mauerpark Flea Market and buy your most convenience stores and some own for around €50. supermarkets. One of the cheapest for calls and texts within Germany money is blau.de (available at Norma), and Compared to many other European for international communication, try cities, Berlin does not put too much Mobi, Lyca or Lebara. Each SIM costs of a dent in the back pocket. about €10 and comes with €7.50 Don’t rely too heavily on your credit. debit/credit card: many places will Emergency numbers only accept cash. Try to use ATMs Fire Brigade 112 in the vestibules adjoining banks (Sparkasse, Deutsche Bank and Police 110

14 | survival guide | berlin there, done that... 36 hours in berlin Eleanor Cobbe

Start your Saturday morning with Appetite sated, go home to breakfast at Ana Blume cafe in change into your glad rags and trendy Prenzlaur Berg before head to the Weinrei for a glass of heading to the Brewers Free wine or five before hitting Club Tour atmuseums 11am to get +an galleries der Visionaire to dance the night initial glimpse ofSally what Elliot Berlin has away. to offer. Berlin has over 170 museumsIf you wake and up art feeling not too Afterwards, duckgalleries, into the each metro bringing refreshed, something soothe your hangover at (Brandenburgunique for Tor)visitors with to a fresh discover. fruit and cream waffle and take the S25Museumsinsel, to Yorkstraße, or atMuseum Kauf Dich Island, Glucklich and recover where you can ischange the eliteto the centre yourof prize-winning senses with a cup of warm to Mehringdamm.establishments; Here, indulge as lovelyEarl Grey. outside as it your fast foodis lush craving with treasures with within. Berlin’s best kebabFrom at the the famous magnificent Blow Ishtaraway Gatethe remaining Mustafa’s – don’tof Babylon be put off– restored by cobwebs to its formerwith a gentle stroll the line, it’s worthglory the in wait! the Pergamondown museum the road – to the Mauerpark the contemporary fleawonders market of andthe rummage around Energy restored,Hamburger you’ll be Bahnhof ready themuseum, hundreds this cityof stalls for some to tackle the Easthas some Side Gallery,of the world’svintage most bargains highly to round off your a short metroacclaimed ride away collections. at weekend The innewer Berlin – just make Warshauer Straße.residents Then, if can’tyou’re be sureleft they’llout: allthere fit in your suitcase feeling peckish aredespite museums the huge for Computeron the way Games, home. lunch time kebab,The windRamones off andyour even Currywurst. sightseeing tourWhether with dinner you cameat for the classical Burgermeister aantiquities short 10 minuteor prefer something more walk from theunusual, Wall inthis gritty city won’t leave you Kreuzberg. wanting.

berlin there, done that... | 36 hours in berlin | 17 sights + monuments