MOLDOVA PREFACE Moldova is a picturesque country of rolling green hills, whitewashed villages, placid lakes, and sunflower fields. It has an old-world charm that is hard to manufacture, and some of the best vineyards in Europe. It is densely populated, with numerous ethnic groups represented, but the majority are ethnic Romanians. The economy is heavily dependent on labor intensive agriculture, and Moldova must import virtually 100% of its primary energy. Chisinau is a moderate sized city that has preserved much of its pre-Soviet character, with many low rise, older structures and tree shaded streets remaining in the central city. With its cultural ties to Russia, Romania, and Turkey, Moldova is something of an enigma. It has risen from the ruins of Soviet socialism to become a democratic republic split in two, one area controlled by the government and the other by separatist rebels nominally loyal to Mother Russia, but it is essentially concerned with making money. The possibility of unification with Romania, its closest neighbor, has been raised, but Moldova has much in common with other former Soviet countries. The official language, Moldovan, is phonetically identical to Romanian. Often business is conducted in Russian; most Romanian-speakers also speak Russian, but many members of the Russian and Ukrainian minorities do not speak Romanian/Moldovan. A government attempt early in 2002 to reintroduce compulsory study of Russian provoked months of protests but no violence. Originally Moldova was part of the greater region of Moldavia — one of the principalities that made up Romania. It lies directly between Russia and Romania and has long been the focal point for border disputes and expansionist policies. Prior to its tenuous unification, it had been overrun, split up, reunited, conquered, annexed, renamed, and taken back again many times over. It has been a long and bloody journey from the principality of Moldavia to the Republic of Moldova, and it seems fitting that the flag includes a band of red signifying the blood spilled in defending the country. The region was made a focal point for the diaspora of Magyars, Slavs, and Bulgarians spreading across Eastern Europe. By the beginning of the Middle Ages, Moldavia (as part of Romania) was already a potpourri of different races and cultures. In the mid 14th century, Moldavia was subsumed under the Ottoman Empire, and it remained under Turkish suzerainty until 1711. In 1812, Turkey and Russia signed the Bucharest Treaty, which gave the eastern half of Moldavia to the Russians (renamed Bessarabia) while the rest of Moldavia and Wallachia became Romania. Bessarabia remained under Russian control until the 1918 Bolshevik Revolution, when it reunited with Romania as a protective measure. In 1939 the Molotov Ribbentrop Pact handed Bessarabia back to the U.S.S.R., and it became the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic (M.S.S.R.). The area was reoccupied by Romanian forces from 1941 until 1944, when the Soviet authorities once again took control. With the collapse of Communism in the mid 1980s and Gorbachev’s policies of glasnost and perestroika, reform followed, and finally, in 1991, Moldova declared its full independence. Moldova has set its sights on European integration, but its prospects remain tenuous as the country struggles to keep all the pieces together and smooth over the contradictions of being part Romanian, part Russian, and wholly Moldovan. AREA, GEOGRAPHY, AND CLIMATE Moldova encompasses what was until August 1991 the Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic, and is located between Romania and Ukraine. Except for a small strip of land on the Danube River, the country is land locked. Moldova is a relatively small country, roughly 300 km long and 100 km across — about the same size as Maryland. Its total land boundary is 1,389 km. Its total area is 33,700 square km. The land border with Romania is 939 km and with Ukraine 450 km. The area east of the Dniester (Nistru) river, along with the city of Bender west of the Dniester, is the breakaway and officially unrecognized Transdnistrian Moldovan Republic, or Transdnistria. Transdnistria is not recognized by Moldova, the U.S., or any other country. Tiraspol is the "capital" of Transdnistria. Moldova’s total population is 4.3 million, of whom 715,000 live in Chisinau. The majority of the population lives in the countryside in villages organized around former state farms. Moldova’s climate is mild in the winter and warm in the summer—approximately that of New York City. Winter temperatures are typically in the 20s (F) but occasionally fall below zero. Highs in the summer are typically in the 80s but can go as high as 100. There are four distinct seasons, with foliage on trees between April and October. The climate is semi arid. The countryside is comprised mainly of gently rolling agricultural lands with a gradual slope south toward the Black Sea. Seventy percent of the soil is composed of the famous, fertile “Black Earth” (chernozim) in this region. Because of the clearing of land for agricultural cultivation—especially in the Soviet era for grape production—there are few forests or woodlands. There has been soil erosion due to farming methods. The effect in the cities is that occasionally dust can blow up from the streets in gusts. Humidity in the summer can be high but mildew and insects are not significant factors. Moldova is sparse in natural mineral resources, with some lignite, phosphorites, and gypsum. Moldova has suffered with other countries in the region from serious environmental damage from the heavy use of agricultural chemicals, including pesticides, such as DDT, that have been banned in the West. Substantial amounts of its soil and ground water are contaminated. Because of the extensive use of asbestos in construction, village and urban area soil may have, in some areas, high concentrations of asbestos mixed with the soil. The two principal rivers—the Prut on the west and Dniester in the east—are polluted. Untreated drinking water have heavy metal contamination, as well as pollution from agricultural chemicals. POPULATION Moldova has approximately 3,500,000 citizens. It is the most densely inhabited of the former Soviet Union Republics, although the poor economic condition of the country has led over 800,000 (by some estimates as many as 1,000,000) to seek employment outside of the country. About 65 percent of the population is ethnic Romanian, 14 percent is Ukrainian, and 13 percent Russian. The remaining 8 percent includes several ethnic groups — Jews, Bulgarians, and Gagauz (Christian Turks) — among others. Moldova is a largely agricultural country, with more than a third of the population employed in the agricultural sector and agro processing, including the production of wine and other alcoholic beverages (brandy, champagne), vegetables and fruits, sugar, grain, sunflower seeds and oil, cattle and pigs. The population in the countryside is largely ethnic Romanian, with a number of Ukrainian villages, especially in the north. In the main cities, ethnic Russians and Ukrainians predominate. The state language is Moldovan (Romanian), although Russian is extensively used. Most of the population of Moldova is at least nominally Orthodox and Moldova has preserved many Orthodox traditions, including colorful Easter celebrations and church festivals. Moldova has a proud tradition of hospitality, and is renowned for its wine, cognac and champagne. Many people, even in the city, make their own homemade wines and are eager to share them with visitors. Local cuisine shows the mixture of cultures, with traditional Romanian, Ukrainian, Russian, Georgian, Turkish, and Jewish foods popular. National dishes include mamaliga (similar to polenta), placinta (a pastry filled with cheese, potatoes, or cabbage), and sarmale (stuffed cabbage); Russian style borscht and caviar are also favorites. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS Parliament amended the 1994 Constitution in July 2000 transforming the country into a parliamentary republic and changing the presidential election from a popular to a parliamentary vote. In December 2000, after several tries, Parliament was unable to elect a president, and President Petru Luchinschi dismissed the Parliament. In February 2001, parliamentary elections were held, which resulted in a new communist-majority Parliament and Government. In March 2005 parliamentary elections, the Communist Party received 46.1% of the vote and won 56 seats in the 101-member Parliament -- more than enough for the 51-vote minimum required to form a government, but short of the 61 votes necessary to elect a president. However, President Voronin was re-elected with support from the opposition Christian Democratic People's Party, the Democratic Party and the Social Liberal Party, after Voronin promised to implement a set of reforms aimed at advancing Moldova's prospects for European integration. Parliamentary and Presidential elections are scheduled for 2008. ARTS, SCIENCE, AND EDUCATION Chisinau has an active cultural life, especially in classical music, although the institutions have suffered from the economic difficulties of the country. During the season, from mid autumn to late spring, there are regular performances by the opera, ballet, national symphony, and smaller musical groups. The Organ Hall and the Philharmonic Hall are frequent venues for concerts by local ensembles and touring groups. In addition to classical music, traditional folk music is very popular; Moldovan ensembles such as Flueras and Lautari are well known throughout the former Soviet Union. The folk dance ensemble “Joc” is especially admired for its performances featuring traditional dances from throughout the region. Chisinau also has several theaters performing in Romanian and Russian. The Chekhov Theater performs classic Russian plays as well as some modern works and translations. The Eugene Ionescu Theater performs avant garde and modern plays in Romanian. Several other theaters feature musicals, satirical plays or traditional favorites. A puppet theater in the center of town offers regular performances in Russian and Romanian, and the Circus hosts a wide variety of touring groups in addition to local performers.