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1670 | Evliya Chelebi: Seyahatname - a Journey to Berat and Elbasan 1670 Evliya Chelebi: Seyahatname - a Journey to Berat and Elbasan

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1670 | Evliya Chelebi: Seyahatname - a Journey to Berat and Elbasan 1670 Evliya Chelebi: Seyahatname - a Journey to Berat and Elbasan 1670 | Evliya Chelebi: Seyahatname - a Journey to Berat and Elbasan 1670 Evliya Chelebi: Seyahatname - a Journey to Berat and Elbasan Evliya Chelebi or Çelebi (1611-1684), pseudonym of Dervish Mehmed Zilli, was the son of a goldsmith at the court of the sultan in Istanbul. From 1640 to 1676 he travelled extensively through the Ottoman empire and neighbouring countries, both in a private capacity and at the service of the Sublime Porte. The account of his travels is recorded in his ten-volume Turkish-language 'Seyahatname' (travel book), which he completed in Cairo. The 'Seyahatname' contains a wealth of information on the cultural history, folklore and geography of the countries he visited. For seventeenth-century Albania it is of inestimable significance. Çelebi visited regions of Albanian settlement three times: Kosova in December of 1660, northern Albania and Montenegro in February of 1662, and finally southern Albania in November of 1670. His descriptions of the central Albanian towns of Berat and Elbasan during the latter journey can be regarded as no less than sensational, in particular for those who know the towns today. One can only marvel at the refined oriental culture he encountered in Albania, of which very few traces remain. From this place we descended westwards through vineyards and arrived in one hour at the imposing region of Jihad, the luxuriant walled town of Albanian Belgrade (Berat). According to the Latin historians, it was first founded by [...] and changed hands many times until, in the year [...], during the reign of Sultan Bayazid Khan, the supreme commander Gedik Ahmed Pasha conquered it from the Albanians, the Greeks and the Venetians. There are [...] fortresses called Belgrade in the Ottoman empire: firstly, Danubian Belgrade on the Danube river; secondly, Stolna Belgrade on the Buda frontier a little more than one stage from Budapest; thirdly, Transylvanian Belgrade which is under Ottoman jurisdiction; and fourthly, this Albanian Belgrade. According to the survey register of Suleyman Khan, it is the seat of the bey of the sanjak of Vlora in the eyalet of Rumelia. It is crown land for which the bey receives an income of 229,000 akçe from the sultan. It has 28 zeamets and 489 timars. It also has an alay bey and a ceribashi. In time of war, the sanjak bey is obliged by statute to supply the sultan with 4,000 armed soldiers, including his own armed retainers and those of the timariots. They are very View of Berat rough and courageous soldiers. Berat has a grand mufti, a nakibüleshraf, a kadi with a salary (Photo: Robert Elsie, March 2008) level of 300 akçe and 120 villages, from the annual revenues of which the kadi has the legal right to six purses and the pasha to thirty purses. It also has the following dignitaries: steward of the spahees, commander of the janissaries, warden of the fortress and his [...] garrison troops, voyvode of the town, market inspector, collector of tolls, steward of the fortress, chief of the band of musicians, mayor, chief architect and poll-tax official. The sanjak of Vlora consists of nine kadi districts. The seat of the sanjak is Berat. North of this is the district of Myzeqe with thirty villages. To the east is the district of Tomorica. Near this to the south and east is the district of Skrapar. Bordering that to the south is the district of Përmet. South of Përmet is the district of Pogonia. West of Pogonia is the district of Gjirokastra which, however, belongs to the sanjak of Delvina. North of Gjirokastra is the district of Tepelena. South of that is the district is Vlora. These nine districts are very http://www.albanianhistory.net/texts16-18/AH1670_1.html (1 of 22)10/2/2012 7:52:39 PM 1670 | Evliya Chelebi: Seyahatname - a Journey to Berat and Elbasan fertile, but some of the rayah are rebellious - may God preserve us from them. The fortress of Berat was conquered from Constantine the Greek and the Albanians. Shape of the fortress. Built like a candlestick on a steep and bare cliff stretching in a north-south direction, it is a mighty, solid and enduring fortress constructed of hewn and polished stone. Since it is in the interior of the country, it has not been kept up and its wall are now damaged in places. The total circumference of the fortress is 2,600 large paces. It has four strong and solid gates. First, facing north, is the Big Gate: from it down to the bazaar is a distance of 1,000 paces. This gate has three large doorways which are separated from one another by a distance of 100 paces each. Two of these doorways look towards the north, and the third one, the inner doorway, opens to the east. The foundation stones of the gate are as big as the body of an elephant. Such stones can otherwise only be found in Hebron near Jerusalem and in the fortress of Bender on the banks of the Dniester river. The second gate, below an ancient monastery, faces west and opens out onto the road which descends to the front of the new mosque built by Hüsein Pasha in the Murad Çelepia quarter. The third gate faces east between the quarters. It is a small, hidden gate and is not used very much. Shape of the citadel. It is a splendid small stone citadel, 800 paces in circumference, joined to one corner of the western wall of the great fortress. It has two gates. One opening to the east, faces the interior of the fortress, and the other, opening to the west, leads down outside the castle to the Çelepia quarter below, and so it inclines to the south.. All 7 (sic) of the above-mentioned gates are made of elm wood and not of iron, because they are all concealed behind towers. The doors of one or two of the gates are lying on the ground, since they are on the inside of the castle and the castle is in the interior of the country, and there is no great fear of attack. Within the citadel there are about forty to fifty houses with tiled roofs, one Mosque of Bayazid Khan (1), a few munitions stores, just six cannons, some outdated grain storehouses and cisterns (2), the house for the warden, and no other buildings. Outside the castle of Berat there is a total of 200 dilapidated houses with tiled roofs, most of them inhabited by Greek infidels. They have very big yards, but the gardens are not kept up. There is one isolated congregational mosque, that of Bayazid Khan (3), covered in tiles. It is a large old mosque with a stone-carved minaret, but with no congregation. There are eight churches, of which one is very large and well built. The streets are paved with unworked cobblestone. On the four sides of the fortress there are houses built against the walls. It has no moat on any side because it is surrounded by sheer gorges. On the south side is the quarter called Çekebeni ("Pull me up") Rock, a frightful cliff which soars into the sky and shelters the nests of falcons, eagle owls, eagles and kites. The gorge is so steep that no one dares to look down into it. There is a reason why the quarter of Çekebeni Rock bears this name. After the conquest of Berat, the accursed infidels once again besieged the fortress, and the Ottoman troops within were unable to alert the sultan. Finally, one of the brave warriors, willing to risk his life, was lowered down this cliff by a rope. He swam across the [...] river which flows in the gorge below, made his way straight to Edirne, and informed the sultan of the dire situation, i.e. that the fortress was being besieged by the enemy. Having been rewarded by the sultan with gifts, he set off once more and three days later arrived in the middle of the night at the foot of this cliff and shouted "Çeke beni!" ("Pull me up!"). They knew it was Ghazi Kuski - that is the name of the one who had gone to alert the sultan - and that he was shouting the agreed-upon password. They immediately drew up Ghazi Kuski with ropes and got him inside the fortress. "Welcome back! What news?" they inquired. "I bring greetings from the Padishah, his viziers and deputies and ulema and grand mufti. The sultan informs you that he will arrive in ten days with 50,000 soldiers to make war. Until then, he bids you give proof of your religious fervour and not surrender the fortress to the enemy. Here are the letters from the authorities." Those under siege were encouraged by the news and defended the fortress day and http://www.albanianhistory.net/texts16-18/AH1670_1.html (2 of 22)10/2/2012 7:52:39 PM 1670 | Evliya Chelebi: Seyahatname - a Journey to Berat and Elbasan night with all their energy until help arrived, ten days later, like sudden death, in the form of 70,000 or 80,000 soldiers, who cut down the infidels with such a Bayazid-like sword that even today heaps of infidel bones can be seen on the plain of Myzeqe. After this victory, the sultan rewarded his soldiers for their efforts. He especially rewarded the courageous messenger who had cried out "Çeke beni!" granting him a large zeamet with a village of its own, which is still administered by the Çekebeni clan. From that time on, the cliff in question has been known as the Çekebeni Rock.
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