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The Market Hall Revisited Cultures of Consumption in Urban Food Retail During the Long Twentieth Century

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The Market Hall Revisited Cultures of Consumption in Urban Food Retail During the Long Twentieth Century The market hall revisited Cultures of consumption in urban food retail during the long twentieth century Jenny Lee Linköping Studies in Arts and Science No. 497 Linköping University, Department of Culture Studies (Tema Q) Department for Studies of Social Change and Culture (ISAK) Linköping 2009 -JOLÚQJOH4UVEJFTJO"SUTBOE4DJFODFt/P "UUIF'BDVMUZPG"SUTBOE4DJFODFBU-JOLÚQJOHTVOJWFSTJUFU SFTFBSDI BOEEPDUPSBMTUVEJFTBSFDBSSJFEPVUXJUIJOCSPBEQSPCMFNBSFBT3F- TFBSDI JT PSHBOJ[FE JO JOUFSEJTDJQMJOBSZ SFTFBSDI FOWJSPONFOUT BOE EPDUPSBMTUVEJFTNBJOMZJOHSBEVBUFTDIPPMT+PJOUMZ UIFZQVCMJTIUIF TFSJFT-JOLÚQJOH4UVEJFTJO"SUTBOE4DJFODF5IJTUIFTJTDPNFTGSPN UIF%FQBSUNFOUPG$VMUVSF4UVEJFT 5FNB2 BUUIF%FQBSUNFOUGPS 4UVEJFTPG4PDJBM$IBOHFBOE$VMUVSF *4", "UUIF%FQBSUNFOUPG$VMUVSF4UVEJFT 5FNBLVMUVSPDITBNIÊMMF 5FNB2 DVMUVSFJTTUVEJFEBTBEZOBNJDmFMEPGQSBDUJDFT JODMVE- JOHBHFODZBTXFMMBTTUSVDUVSF BOEDVMUVSBMQSPEVDUTBTXFMMBTUIF XBZUIFZBSFQSPEVDFE DPOTVNFE DPNNVOJDBUFEBOEVTFE5FNB 2JTQBSUPGUIFMBSHFS%FQBSUNFOUGPS4UVEJFTPG4PDJBM$IBOHFBOE $VMUVSF *4", %JTUSJCVUJPO %FQBSUNFOUPG$VMUVSF4UVEJFT 5FNB2 -JOLÚQJOHTVOJWFSTJUFU SE-581 83 Linköping 4XFEFO +FOOZ-FF 5IFNBSLFUIBMMSFWJTJUFE $VMUVSFTPGDPOTVNQUJPOJOVSCBOGPPESFUBJM EVSJOHUIFMPOHUXFOUJFUIDFOUVSZ &EJUJPO *4#/ *44/ ª+FOOZ-FF %FQBSUNFOUPG$VMUVSF4UVEJFT 5FNB2 %FQBSUNFOUGPS4UVEJFTPG4PDJBM$IBOHFBOE$VMUVSF *4", &OHMJTIQSPPGSFBEJOH4UFGBO1FTTJSJMP $PWFSEFTJHO%FOOJT/FU[FMM #PPLEFTJHOUZQFTFUUJOH'SBODJT-FF 1SJOUFECZ-J65SZDL -JOLÚQJOH 1SJOUFE XJUI TVQQPSU GSPN ,VOHM (VTUBW "EPMGT "LBEFNJFO GÚS TWFOTLGPMLLVMUVSBOE4UJGUFMTFO"YFM)JSTDITGPOE 4FUJO,-*./BUJPOBMBOE*5$-FHBDZ4FSJG Contents Acknowledgements .................................. 7 1. Introduction ...................................... 11 1VSQPTFBOESFTFBSDIRVFTUJPOT 11 5IFPSJHJOTPGUIF4XFEJTINBSLFUIBMMT 1 8IZ4UPDLIPMN 1 2. Theoretical perspectives .......................... 19 'PPEQSPWJTJPOJOHJODJUJFT 1 $POTVNQUJPO 3 5IFDJUZ 8 2VBMJUZ SBUJPOBMJUZBOEBVUIFOUJDJUZ 3 3. Ethnography and history: a long-distance relationship? .. 37 .FUIPEBOENBUFSJBMGPSQBSU 3 .FUIPEBOENBUFSJBMGPSQBSU .FUIPEBOENBUFSJBMGPSQBSU 8 Part 1. Dreams of modernity: the rise of the market hall ............................57 4. Stockholm on the brink of modernity ................ 61 $POHFTUFEDJUZ 61 4IBQJOHUIFNBSLFU 6 5SBOTDFOEJOHUIFQSPWJODJBMDIBSBDUFS 6 5IF.BSLFU$PNNJUUFFVOEFSUBLFTBOJOWFTUJHBUJPO 3VMFTBOESFHVMBUJPOTPOUIFSJTF 8 .BSLFUIBMMTBTHFOFSBUPSTPGNPEFSOJUZBOE VSCBOQSFTUJHF 88 5IFIBSTISFBMJUJFT 5 5. Speeding into modernity ........................... 97 5IF'PPE$PNNJUFFBOEUIFDPTUPGMJWJOH $JUZDPNNJTTJPOBHFOUT DFOUSBMNBSLFUIBMMT BOEQVCMJDBCBUUPJST 5 .VOJDJQBMDPOUSPMTFDVSJOHBGPPETVQQMZ 111 #VZJOHQSJWBUFNBSLFUIBMMT 113 3FJOGPSDJOHSVMFTBOESFHVMBUJPOT 115 5IFUJEFJTUVSOJOHSFUBJMNBSLFUIBMMTVOEFSDSJUJDJTN 118 3FTDVJOHUIFNBSLFUIBMM 5IFNJEEMFNBO 3 (SBWJUBUJOHUPXBSETXIPMFTBMFNBSLFUIBMMT 5 Coda. Waning symbolic power: how the market hall lost its al- lure of modernity ...................................129 Part 2. Dreams of rationality: the decline of the market hall ...........................135 6. Modernity in action ...............................139 $MJNBUFPGDIBOHF 13 "HSJDVMUVSFIFBEJOHGPSSBUJPOBMJ[BUJPO 3BUJPOBMEFTJHOT 5 3BNQBOUEJTUSJCVUJPODPTUT 5IFQBDLBHJOHSFWPMVUJPO 151 5IFTIBEPXPGUIFNBSLFUIBMM 15 7. Distribution and retail: the silent revolution? ...........165 4UBOEBSEJ[JOHDPOTVNFST TUBOEBSEJ[JOHSFUBJM 165 (P8FTU1BTTJPOBOESFTJTUBODF 5IFTFMGTFSWJDFGPSNBU 4FMGTFSWJDFUSJVNQIT 8 4USVDUVSBMSBUJPOBMJ[BUJPOCBDLmSFT 183 0VUPGUIFTIBEPXT 186 Coda. Decline of rationality ...........................195 Part3. Dreams of nostalgia: the return of the market hall ....................... 201 8. Setting the Scene................................ 205 5IFTQBUJBMEJNFOTJPO 6 5IFUFNQPSBMEJNFOTJPO 5 5IFCFOFmUPGDPNQBSJTPOT 9. Customers: the consumers ........................ 229 8IZMJGFTUZMF 1 8IPBSFUIFDVTUPNFST 3 3FHVMBSTBOEPSJHJOBMTNBOBHJOHTPDJBCJMJUZ %JGmDVMUDVTUPNFSTBOEOFHPUJBUJOHDPNQMBJOUT 3 5IFJOUBOHJCMFRVBMJUZPGBUNPTQIFSF 5IFFMVTJWFDIBSBDUFSPGRVBMJUZ 1 &YQFDUBUJPOTPGDSBGUTNBOTIJQ 5 5IFDPNNPOHSPVOEPGDPOOPJTTFVSTIJQ 8 10. Vendors ...................................... 263 )PXUPSVOBCVTJOFTT 5 5IFNBSLFUIBMMMJGFTUZMF $PNQFUJUJPO DPPQFSBUJPO BOEDPOnJDU 5IFMPTTPGUSBEJUJPO 5IFJNQPSUBODFPGLOPXMFEHFBOEDPOUBDUT #VJMEJOHDSFEJCJMJUZ 3 7JTVBMBOETQBUJBMUFDIOJRVFT "OFDPOPNZPGUSVTU Coda. The power of place ........................... 301 Epilogue. New beginnings? .................. 305 Sources and literature ..................... 325 Acknowledgements .ZJOUFSFTUJONBSLFUIBMMTCFHBOXIFO*NPWFEUP5PVMPVTFJOUIFTPVUI PG'SBODF$PNJOHIPNFMBUFBUOJHIU XFVTFEUPHPUPMarchés Victor Hugo QJDLPVUBTUFBLBOEESJOLBMBTUHMBTTPGXJOFBUUIFCBSJOBDPSOFS PGUIFNBSLFUXIJMFUIFDIFGDPPLFEUIFNFBUGPSVT5IJTXBTEFMJHIUGVM BOEBEEJOHUPUIFFYQFSJFODFXBTUIFGFFMJOHPGCFJOHQBSUPGTPNFUIJOH TQFDJBM5IJTXBTPVUTJEFUIFPSEJOBSZPQFOJOHIPVST UIFNBSLFUIBMMXBT XBLJOHVQBOEFWFSZUIJOHXBTCFJOHQSFQBSFEGPSUIFCVTZDPNNFSDFEBZ 0O4VOEBZT UIFSFXBTBOPUIFSNBSLFUDMPTFSUPIPNF Marché des Carmes XIFSFXFDPVMEEPEJOOFSGPPETIPQQJOH%VSJOHSFHVMBSPQFOJOHIPVST WFOEPSTBOEDVTUPNFSTFOHBHFEJOGSJFOEMZBOELOPXMFEHFBCMFEJTDVT- TJPOTPWFSGPPE BOE*FOKPZFEUIFBUNPTQIFSFPGUIFOPUTPFMFHBOU CVU DIBSNJOH NBSLFUIBMMBUUIFCPUUPNPGBQBSLJOHHBSBHF "MNPTUUFOZFBSTMBUFS *XBTBDDFQUFEBTBEPDUPSBMTUVEFOUBU-JOLÚ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nstitut Européen d’Histoire et des Cultures de l’AlimentationJO5PVSTJO4FQUFNCFS*XPVMEMJLFUPUIBOL1FUFS 8 the market hall revisited 4DIPMMJFSTBOE"MMFO(SJFDP 1FUFS"ULJOT .BSD+BDPCT 9BWJFS.FEJOB 4UFQIFO .FOOFMM )FOSZ /PUBLFS +FBO1JFSSF 1PMBJO "MFTTBOESP 4UBO- [JBOJ BOEBMMUIFEPDUPSBMTUVEFOUT JOQBSUJDVMBS3BDIFM&EFO#MBDLBOE 4WFOE4LBGUF0WFSHBBSE "UWBSJPVTQPJOUT *IBWFSFDFJWFEVTFGVMDPNNFOUTPONZXPSL5IBOL ZPV #PFM#FSOFSGPSZPVSHFOFSPVTBOEDPOTUSVDUJWFSFBEJOHPGNZUFYU GPSUIFIBMGUJNFTFNJOBS*XPVMEMJLFUPUIBOL$FDJMJB'SFESJLTTPO GPS IFSJOTJHIUGVMBOEJOTQJSJOHDSJUJRVFBUNZmOBMTFNJOBS.ZUIBOLTBMTP HPUPUIFmOBMTFNJOBSDPNNJUUFF&SMJOH#KVSTUSÚN #SJUB)FSNFMJO BOE )BOT4KÚHSFO GPSUIFNBOZIFMQGVMTVHHFTUJPOT *XPVMEMJLFUPUIBOLBMMUIFNFNCFSTPGUIFGPPETFNJOBSXIJDIXBT NZmSTUBDBEFNJDIPNFBU5FNB"OJUB"OEFSTTPO 4UJOB#BDLNBO "OOB #SZOUPSQ #FOHU&SJL&SJLTTPO &WB(VMMCFSH +PIBO)FESÏO .BSUJO)FMM- TUSÚN 3PHFS2WBSTFMM 6MSJLB5PSFMMBOE4BSBI7JOUFSMZDLB*XPVMEBMTP MJLFUPUIBOLBMMUIFNFNCFSTPGUIFQBDLBHJOHTFNJOBS*UIBTCFFOCPUI JOTQJSJOHBOEJOTUSVDUJWF5IBOLTUPBMMUIFGSJFOETBOEDPMMFBHVFTPGUIF %DPIPSU *NIBQQZUPIBWFIBEUIFDIBODFPGHFUUJOHUPLOPXZPV BOEZPVSXPSL5IBOLTBMTPUPBMMUIFOJDFOFXBOEPMEDPMMFBHVFTBUUIF EFQBSUNFOUTPG5FNBBOE*4", ZPVNBLF-JOLÚQJOHVOJWFSTJUZBHSFBU QMBDFUPXPSL 4PNFQFPQMFIBWFUIFLOBDLGPSCSJOHJOHPVUUIFCFTUJOBOZBDBEFNJD UFYUT #PEJM"YFMTTPO ¯TB1FUUFSTTPOBOE6MSJLB5PSFMMJGPOMZZPVLOFX IPXNVDI*BNJOEFCUFEUPZPVGPSCFJOHXIPZPVBSFGVMMPGBTTPDJB- UJPOT BOE JEFBT XFMMSFBE BOE UIFPSFUJDBMMZ TPQIJTUJDBUFE ZPV QPTTFTT UIBUXPOEFSGVMBDBEFNJDJNBHJOBUJWFOFTTUIBUEJTDPWFSTOFXFNQJSJDBM NBUFSJBMTBOELOPXTIPXUPQSFTFOUJU7FSPOJDB#SPEÏO 7BTJMJT(BMJT BOE1FMMF(ZCFSHUIBOLZPV/PUPOMZBSFZPVGVOBOEJOUFMMJHFOU ZPV BMTPSFBMMZLOPXIPXUPSFBEUFYUTBOEIBWFIFMQFENFNPSFUIBO*UIJOL ZPVLOPX 0WFSUIFZFBST*IBWFNFUNBOZFYUSBPSEJOBSZBOEJOTQJSJOHQFPQMF %JTB#FSHIOÏS $IBSMPUUF#JMMHSFO .BSJB#KÚSLNBO %BOB$PSEFMM )F- MFOF&HFMBOE 4UJOB)FO[F &SJDLB+PIOTPO 1FUSB+POWBMMFO -JOB-BSTTPO ,SJTUJOB-JOEIPMN $BSJOB.JMEF "MNB1FSTTPO +BOJOB4DIJSNFS 5JOB 4DINJE/FTFU 4PmB4FJGBSUI ,BSJO4LJMM ,BSJO5IPSFTTPO "OO8FSOFS )BOOB8JUSPDL $FDJMJB¯TCFSH *XPVMEMPWFUPTFFNPSFPGZPVBMM *NHSBUFGVMGPSBMMUIFPMEBOEOFXGSJFOETXIPBSFTUJMMUIFSFEFTQJUF FWFSZUIJOH %BOJFM #FOHUTPO (VJMMFSNP $BSCPOBSJ .POJDB%VQPOU "OOJDB &XJOH ¯TB'SJU[PO /JOB +BLPCTPO "OESBT-BSTTPO ,SJTUJO -KVOHLWJTU "OEFST -ÚXBOEFS .BUUJBT-ÚXIBHFO 4BSB/PSCÊDL .JDLF /PSCÊDL (VOJMMB3FJTDIFM $JMMB4DIÚOOJOH +FOOZ5JEHSFO .BSUJOB 8BIMHSFO )BOOB8BMMFOTUSÚN ,BKTB8FTUCFSH )BOT8JMIPMN UIBOL ZPVGPSBMMZPVSFODPVSBHFNFOU BMMUIFJOTQJSJOHEJTDVTTJPOT BOENPTU acknowledgements 9 PGBMMGPSZPVSGSJFOETIJQ*MPPLGPSXBSEUPTFFJOHZPVNPSFPGUFO 5IFIFMQGVMTUBGGTBU4UPDLIPMN$JUZ"SDIJWFT Stadsarkivet BOEBUUIF 4UPDLIPMN$JUZ.VTFVN Stadsmuseum IBWFNBEFHPJOHJOUPUIFBSDIJWFT BUSVFQMFBTVSF*BNHSBUFGVMUPUIFWFOEPSTBOEDVTUPNFSTJOUIFNBSLFU IBMMTGPSMFUUJOHNFTIBSFUIFJSUJNFBOELOPXMFEHF BOEGPSQVUUJOHVQ XJUIBMMNZRVFTUJPOT5IFTUBGGBUUIFGPSNFS.BSLFU)BMM"ENJOJTUSB- UJPOEFTFSWFTBTQFDJBMNFOUJPO5IBOLZPVGPSUBLJOHZPVSUJNFXJUINF HFOFSPVTMZ BOTXFSJOH BMM RVFTUJPOT CSJOHJOH PVU NBUFSJBM GPS NF BOE NBLJOHNFGFFMXFMDPNFKungl. 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