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UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna International Centre, P.O. Box 300, 1400 Vienna, Austria Tel: (+43-1) 26026-0 · www.unido.org · [email protected] UNIDO United Nations Industrial Development Organisation Project N°D.P ffURJ89/013 Contract N° 92/171P.

TRAINING PROGRAMME on DESIGN and PATTERN-MAKING INDUSTRY - ISTAMBUL (TURKEY) 4/17 February 1993 -

[ FINAL REPORT ]

P.I.S.I.E. International Polytechnic for Industrial and Economic Development Via S.Marco, 13 • 60035 .Jesi (Ancona) Italia· P.O. Rox 364 Tel. (0731) 64253-209067 ·Fax. (0731) 6438-' ·Telex: 561007

' I I I I I ' 1111 I I I I II I 11 11 I 11 11 I I 11 11 I 11 Footwear Technical Course UNIDO - Istanbul

Technical Regort The following issues were examined in the technical training programme carried out from 4th to 16th February, 1993 in Istanbul: - introduction to the technical and design problems of the footwear industry and their comprehensive examination; discussion of the current situation of the footwear industry throughout the world: production, consumption and medium-term forecasts; - survey of the most advanced methods to rationally tackle the problems of the footwear industry; - creativity: ways to develop it.bearing m :nind rnarke requirements and the related production methods; discussion of drawing and sketching techniques whereby creative ideas are visualized; - survey of the most common measuring methods and explanation of the international measuring systems; - survey of the most advanced techniques of footwear design and pattern-making;

- survey of the technical problems to be addressed at different production levels and suitable solutions for them; - discussion of the role of the designer, who is expected to carry out market research activities and select the most suitable footwear to be manufactured; - survey of the industrial manufacturing of different footwear designs; study of the structure and organization of industrial companies and cottage industries; survey of the technical strategies and actions to be taken to improve footwear quality and productivity in Turkish firms.

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- Material taken from the training kit on footwear design and pattern-making and used as a teaching aid; - pictures showing the latest fashion trends in the field:· of footwear and accessories; - slides showing fashionable men's. ladies' and children's (classic. informal and smart designs of footwear); transparencies on company organization (plant. management. departments. personnel, costing. etc.); videotapes on the manufacturing process. m particular on: a) binding methods; b) the production cycle (pattern-making. cutting. assembly and finishing); c) vulcanization (training shoes and vulcanized bottoms); magazines and printed material showing the latest accessories. Design Classes: Men's. Ladies' and Children's Patterns Types of Designs: Informal. Training, Classic and Smart Shoes

A List of the Designs studied in the Course 0 I) classic court with a 50 mm heel 02) asymmetrical with a 20 mm heel 03) court shoe with an 80 mm heel 04) classic derby shoe 05) derby shoe with an uncut upper 06) English style derby shoe 07) derby shoe with buckle strap 08) classic 09) oxford shoe with an uncut upper I 0) oxford shoe with lateral lacing I I ) asymmetrical ladies' 12) men's sandal 13) loafer with no elastic strap I 4) loafer with an uncut upper I 5) loafer with an apron 16) loafer with apron and elastic strap I 7) loafer with elastic strap and two-piece upper 18) boy's derby shoe 19) boy's oxford shoe 20) girl's court shoe 21) boy's ankle 22) training shoe 23) boot with no fastening 24) low boot 25) ankle boot 26) men's zipped ankle boot 27) classic real 28) informal real moccasin (I) 29) informal real moccasin (II) 30) vulcanized real moccasin Total: 30 patterns made Teaching Material banded out to Trainees - a copy of the UNIDO kit prepared and translated into Turkish by the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (ICOC)

- ph~tocopied d~a~in~s showing the latest fashion trends for men's, ladies' and ch1ltiren s footwear - photocopied drawings showing the profiles of lasts, soles. heels and accessories for men's, ladies' and children's footwear - photocopied explanatory material on: a) last sizes and measurement criteria b) graded patterns and the pantograph:detailed description of the pantograph and its use in the production of a graded series of patterns c) plant layouts: cutting, binding. assembly and finishing departments material on personnel and equipment requirements, depending on the footwear to be manufactured material on product costing - material on production management Material given to the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (ICOC> - wooden lasts for men's, ladies' and children's footwear - teaching material developed during the course, paper standards and footwear actual patterns

Trainees' Technjcal Skills There were 25 trainees on the course; most of them came from companies based in Istanbul. They were proficient at designing and possessed a good knowledge of the manufacturing cycle. Only a few of them lacked adequate knowledge and proficiency. All the firms they worked in produced approximately the same types of shoes. The trainees' technical skills can be regarded as satisfactory. as proven by their performances: nevertheless. their working methods are not in lin~ wuh present working standard~. No trainee had ever been imparted any previous inlensive uaining in these areas. T. ainees possessed a fair technical knowledge of traditional manufacturing with low-quality finishing equipment. Only one trainee was completely unfamiliar with this subject.

A Sun:ey of the Local Footwear Output and Sector Footwear manufacturing is an established business in Turkey. There are some footwear industries; yet. the majority of businesses are small- and medium-sized firms. characterized by small and artisanal oulputs. Raw materials are produced locally and are also imported from Italy. France. Spain. Germany and other countries. These imports improve the quality of the finished product; nevertheless. they cause an increase in selling prices.

As regards lasts and leather. there is a quality gap to be filled if higher quality products are to be manufactured. Only che larger firms. which have concluded trading agreements wilh European parlners. achieve good resuhs (see the joint-venture with the firm Calzature di Varese. for example). The above-mentioned Italian firm supplies raw macerials, parts and pauerns 10 its Turkish counterpart; most of the products thus manufactured in Turkey are then exported and their qualiiy is high. Most other Turkish firms sell their whole outputs on the domestic market. Their products do not meet the requirements of the Turkish market in terms of lasts. designs. accessories and finishing; for this reason their sales arc sluggish. There is a disparity between footwear selling prices and the purchasing power of che Turks. Prices in shops are very high. if compared wah the average wages and salaries of most people. Low productivity and - most importantly - imports of raw materials account for high prices. The discribution network is adequate; there is a large number of small- and medium-sized shops. Some of them purchase their goods on foreign markets and sell che best footwear available in Turkey. The Turkish footwear sector lacks compclcncc in the fidd of produl"t image promotion. There are foreign companies (such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Benetton, Di Varese and others) which have set up retail branches in Turkey: they can serve as an example and show how companies can improve their sales.

Workers' skills are satisfactory. Nevertheless there is a strong demand for skilled workers to be employed in the manufacturil'lg process.

Technology employed by medium- and large industries 1s satisfactory: those companies constantly keep an eye on the latest technological developments available on the world markets. Small firms use few machines and are organized as collage industries.

Turkish designers draw upon European fashion magazines to create the designs they supply to Turkish firms. The ideas they come up with are not very convincing: furthermore, most of the time, those ideas materialize in poor finished shoes, which bear no evidence of the original designs.

Finally, the quality of lasts and footwear parts is low.

Each firm has its own salaried designer and pattern-maker; the profession of free-lance designer and pattern-maker is not well­ established. Local designers come up with too elaborate designs, characterized by extravagant and excessive decoration. There are construction details that are important for exporting and are required by international standards: yet, not enough attenrion is paid ro them.

Suggestions for the lmpro,·ement of the Footwear Sector At:ainst rhis background, technical staf[ training is a drioriry. A training institution and its services should be resorte ro on a permanent basis; or else technical, ad-hoc training seminars on specific issues could be held at regular intervals. If training in design and manufacturing is imparted to technical staff, Turkish footwear companies will be able to produce higher quality and more original footwear in che short term. Furthermore industrial manufacturing must be promoted through the introduction of new machinery. That process shall of course be very gradual and shall make sure that the balance between manpower and equipmenr is kepr. The purpose of that action is: to improve quality and increas:.: productivity with a reduction of unit production costs. ,';IJ •u•u• IJ"t.....,,..•"'' n-o.1 ,_, .... ''' • -"" ~ .J•~

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THE FORMS OF THE FOLLOWING PARTICIPANTS ARE NOT AVAILABLE:

01) Mr. INCI GUN, Pames Ayakkabicilik Ith. Ihr. San ve Tic. A.~. 02) Mr. FARUl( SIT,, Faruk Kundura San. Tic. Ltd. Sti..