Fashion Accessories 1.0 - 6+1 Basic Styles & Its Variation.

Volume – 1

Author: Mr.Abdul Rahuman M, M.Sc. (CRD), UGC NET (J 2018), Jr. Faculty (SFDP). Design & Development Institute- Hyderabad, An “Institution of National Importance” as per FDDI Act, 2017 Under Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Govt. of India

Co-Author: Mrs.Arshiya Banu M S, Sira- 572137, Tumkur, Karnataka.

i

STARLET PUBLISHING RZ 94, Sector - 6, Dwarka, New Delhi - 110075 Shubham Vihar, Mangla, Bilaspur, Chhattisgarh - 495001 Website: www.starletpublishing.in ______

© Copyright, 2020, Author

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, magnetic, optical, chemical, manual, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written consent of its writer.

ISBN: 978-93-90307-29-6 Price: Rs.442.00

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Printed in India

ii Dedication

I dedicate my humble effort to my loving and respected Mom, father and all my teacher (Maa, Pita and Guru) Who makes me able to achieve such progress.

iii PREFACE

First and foremost, I sincerely thank Respected Shri. Arun Kumar Sinha sir, (IAS, Managing -Director, Footwear Design & Development Institute) and Respected Shri. Vikas Verma sir, (IRSME, Former Executive Director, Footwear Design & Development Institute) and FDDI Management for the support and motivation to complete this book. It gives me immense pleasure to express my gratitude to former and present HODs and my colleagues for the support. I would like to thank my wife and child for supporting the daily activities during COVID 19 Lockdown period. I am indebted to the Starlet Publishing for publishing this book on time.Last and not least, I would like to be grateful to all my students who spent time generating ideas and my well wisher who supported this task as much as possible. This book series is a complete guide to understand the fashion accessories. In particular, the daily activities of footwear styles are used. This guide helps you understand the importance of footwear as functional aspects and style advice for an individual. It also helps those who are planning a career in the footwear industry or who want to fill a gap in their knowledge of fashion. This manual deals with the basic styles of and their variations, shoe sizing and footwear, parts terminology, foot anatomy and so on. As we all know, the average walk of the individual throughout his life is approximately 1.00.000 miles. (1.60.934 km), therefore footwear played a vital role for an individual. Right footwear causes many foot problems. About 1, 00, 000 new projects are introduced every year. All shoe fashions based on 6 + 1 basic shoe styles. 6 indicate closed footwear and 1 indicates open footwear. These styles originate from infinite variations in 6 + 1 basic designs. This manual is intended to be used as a resource book and contains several illustrations.I am glad to present the first edition of this book, especially designed to serve the needs of the students, faculty, industrialist and so on. Information in this book is splitted into three parts. Part 1 explores the understanding of the essential parts and historical background of footwear, where the student can easily understand the styles of shoes. Part 2 concentrates the anatomy of the foot, the shoe measurement system and the shoe last. Part 3 focuses on styling and style advisory, which supports designers and store keepers to understand the different shoe styles used on the basis of 6 + 1 basic shoe styles. In addition, we will discuss the basic styles of shoes and their variations.

Date: 24th May 2020 Mr. Abdul Rahuman M iv TABLE OF CONTENTS

PART 1 INTRODUCTION TO PARTS & HISTORY OF FOOTWEAR...... 1

Chapter 1 Parts Terminology & Functions of Shoe/ Upper...... 2 1.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 3 1.2 FOOTWEAR IN GENERAL ...... 3 1.3 SHOE /BOOT UPPER PARTS TERMINOLOGY ...... 5 1.4 LINING & INTERLINING ...... 14 1.5 ACCESSORIES & FASTENING ...... 15

Chapter 2 Parts Terminology & Functions of Shoe/ Boot Bottoms...... 21 2.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 21 2.2 SHOE /BOOT BOTTOMS PARTS TERMINOLOGY ...... 22 2.3 OUTSOLE ...... 24 2.4 HEEL ...... 27 2.5 TYPES OF HEEL ...... 28 2.6 OTHER BOTTOM COMPONENTS ...... 35

Chapter 3 Introduction to process of Footwear making…………...... 38 3.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 38 3.2 BASIC STEPS INVOLVED IN CONSTRUCTION OF FOOTWEAR ...... 38

Chapter 4 History & Evolution of the Footwear…………………...... 43 4.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 43 4.2 OBJECTIVES ...... 43 4.3 CLASSIFICATION OF THE HISTORY OF FOOTWEAR...... 44 4.4 ANCIENT ERA...... 45 4.5 MIDDLE AGE (OR) POSTCLASSICAL ERA ...... 49 4.6 EARLY MODERN PERIOD ...... 54 4.7 CONTEMPORARY PERIOD ...... 59

PART 2 ANATOMY OF FOOT, SHOE SIZING SYSTEM & SHOE LAST...... 66

Chapter 5 Foot Anatomy...... 67 5.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 67 5.2 FOOT ANATOMY ...... 68 5.3 JOINTS ...... 72 5.4 LIGAMENTS & TENDONS ...... 73 5.5 ARCH ...... 75 5.6 CHANGES DURING GROWTH ...... 77 v 5.7 FUNCTIONS OF FEET ...... 80 5.8 INTRODUCTION TO BIO- MECHANICS ...... 81 5.9 VARIOUS TROUBLE IN FEET ...... 86

Chapter 6 Shoe Sizing System...... 95 6.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 95 6.2 SHOE SIZE &DIMENSIONS ...... 96 6.3 TYPES OF SHOE SIZING SYSTEM ...... 99 6.4 COMPARISON OF ONE SIZE WITH ANOTHER SIZE...... 106 6.5 SIZING & GRADING ...... 107 6.6 MULTI FITTINGS ...... 110 6.7 FOOT MEASURING & FITTING ...... 110 6.8 SHOE FITTING AS A SINGLE IMPORTANT PROPERTY ...... 112 6.9 FOOT CARE FOR AN INDIVIDUAL ...... 113 6.10 FOOT MEASURING DEVICE ...... 114

Chapter 7 Shoe-Last...... 121 7.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 121 7.2 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE HUMAN FOOT AND SHOE LAST ...... 123 7.3 CLASSIFICATION OF SHOE LAST ...... 124 7.4 SHOE-LAST TERMINOLOGY ...... 129 7.5 SHOE-LAST DEVELOPMENT ...... 132 7.6 SHOE-LAST MANUFACTURING ...... 134 7.7 SHOE-LAST ASSESSMENT ...... 136

PART 3 BASIC SHOE STYLES & ITS VARIATION ...... 140

Chapter 8 Closed Footwear Styles.-Oxford, Derby, Slip-on, ………………...141 8.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 141 8.2 BASIC SHOE STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 142 8.3 STYLES & IT VARIATIONS ...... 142 8.4 DERBY SHOE STYLES & IT VARIATIONS ...... 150 8.5 SLIP-ON SHOE STYLES & ITS VARIATION...... 156 8.6 MOCCASIN STYLES ...... 163

Chapter 9 Closed Footwear Styles.- Court Shoes ……………………………………....168 9.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 168 9.2 STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 169

vi Chapter 10 Closed Footwear Styles.- Boot ...... 179 10.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 179 10.2 BASIC BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 180 10.3 HISTORICAL BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 180 10.4 STYLE & ITS VARIATION...... 184 10.5 WORK BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 188 10.6 STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 195 10.7 ATHLETICS / SPORTS BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 201

Chapter 11 Open Footwear Style...... 205 11.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 205 11.2 OPEN FOOTWEAR & THEIR VARIATIONS...... 206 11.3 HISTORICAL STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 206 11.4 WOODEN STYLE & ITS VARIATION...... 184 11.5 OTHER TRADITIONAL SANDALS FROM INDIA ...... 210 11.6 TOE HOLD SANDALS...... 211 11.7 APRON SANDAL STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 214 11.8 FASHION SANDAL STYLE & ITS VARIATION ...... 214

Chapter 12 Multi Disciplinary...... 222 12.1 INTRODUCTION ...... 222 12.2 IDENTIFICATION OF FAULTS...... 223 12.3 INTRODUCTION TO HAND BAG ...... 224 12.4 COMPONENT PARTS OF HANDBAGS...... 224 12.5 CLASSIFICATION OF HANDBAGS ...... 226 12.6 SEQUENCE OF TOOLING...... 229

REFERENCE…………………...... 233 GLOSSARY……...……………...... 236

vii viii Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear.

Part I Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear

1 | P a g e Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear.

Chapter- 1

Parts Terminology & Functions of Shoe/ Boot Upper.

Abstract: This chapter focuses on understanding of essential parts of footwear, where learner can easily understand shoe styles. This chapter describes the elements and parts terminology and functional ability of shoe / boot uppers. The upper parts build the way that attracts the customer to the purchase, eye appeal, concept, etc. The upper components are mainly dependant on styling of the footwear. The objectives of this chapter are to determine how upper technology can be useful for people. This chapter will begin with the quote by Cinderella that “ One shoe can change your life”.

Keywords: Vamp, Quarter, Lining, Upper components, etc.

2 | P a g e Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear. 1.1 Introduction: The word style is from the Latin word “stylus” meaning a pen like ancient instrument used to draw an outline. Other hand, style is associated with fashion. There are several steps involved to create new designs. Those are idea generations, design IB, research direction, etc. According to Merriem Webster, a shoe is defined as an outer covering portion of the feet. Safety, mobility and weight bearing are characteristics of a shoe.

A new design is also associated with many factors. Such as taste, gender, age, etc of the wearer, trend analysis, forecast, etc. Generally, segmentation on basis of Geographic, psychographics, demographics, behavior segmentation plays important role to create a new design. By the 1950‟s, however, as suit style became more conservative [2], Due to purchasing power of individual, shoe style is on rise and women‟s trend is changing faster than men and children.

Around 1, 00, 000 new designs are being introduced every year. All shoe fashions based on 6+1 basic shoe styles. These styles are originated from endless variation in 6+1 basic designs. The origin of each design can be traced to one or more features introduced to meet some specific requirements or objectives. For an example, Brogue is unique variations of oxford shoes. Peep toe is clone of court shoe. Objectives After studying this chapter, you should be able to • understand the anatomy of the footwear, • explain the basic functions of the footwear, • assess the shoe/boot upper parts terminology, • describe the basic shoe styles and shoe upper parts. Before starting a shoe style, learner should have an idea about parts and function of shoes. 1.2 Footwear in General. 1.2.1 Introduction Generally, Footwear is an integral part of human living, which protects the feet from extremes of temperature, moisture and mechanical trauma. Footwear is outer covering portion of feet. This supports body weight bearing, mobility of individual which protects the feet from injuries. Mostly, fashion adapted. Fashion has dominance comfort and narrow footwear is desired. Largely, Commercial footwear has no toe room which raises crowding, pressures, etc. In Commercial, length of the feet is considered in footwear making. No group of human being has same feet shape. No two foot has the same shape or function. But commercially, standard feet width is only considered for footwear manufacturing, which is principle limitation. 3 | P a g e Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear. 1.2.2 Parts of footwear There are a different shoe styles available in the market which differs in style lines, heel heights, toe shapes, etc.The look of each design can be found one or more features that are intended to meet some special purpose or utility. Classic, Casual, Sporty, Customized are different types of shoes which is based on utility of shoe. Shoe last provides shape retention for footwear. Various forms of constructions and materials used depend on utility of footwear. English, French, midpoints are different sizing systems which is based on length and girth of feet. Heel height should be in balance with toe spring. Usually, the heel height of footwear depends on end user. I.e Heel height of women‟s footwear is higher than men‟s footwear.

Figure 1.1 Parts of Footwear (Derby wing cap brogue). The top portion of the footwear is called as upper .The upper is further attached to lining, inter lining, etc. Vamp, Quarter, Counter, Tongue, Collar, Facing, Saddle, etc are Upper components consisting the upper, Lining play a vital role in shoe, because it will be in direct contact with the feet during walking. Vamp lining, Quarter lining, Tongue lining, Heel grip, etc. are lining components. Toe puff, stiffener, backer, eyelet stay are used as interlining materials or grinderies

4 | P a g e Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear. which provide additional support for shoe. Lace, Eyelet, Velcro, Buckle, etc are used as fastening elements, and it is also supports fitting of the shoe. There are different materials used for production of single footwear. Leather, synthetic, canvas, poly urethane, and poly vinyl chloride are used to prepare „the upper‟. Sole, Heel, Insole, , Bottom filler, etc. are bottom components of the footwear. Sole is the layer of material which covers the bottom of the shoe and it is the walking surface of that is in direct contact with the ground. The sole are commonly made of diversity of material, such leather, Thermoplastic poly urethane (TPU), Vulcanized rubber, Poly vinyl chloride (PVC), EVA (Ethyl Vinyl Acetate). The out sole is used for ground support and grip during mobility.

Heel is made of leather, wood, plastic, rubber, leatherboard, etc. Insole is the inner sole of the shoe, which is next to the foot under the shoe . It is classified into half insole, ribbed insole, skeleton insole, continental insole, blended insole etc, Bottom filler consists of cork, foam, etc. and it is placed in between insole and out sole. Shoe sock and sock foam are also play a vital role for cushioning of feet. Shank, Nails, Threads, Foam (paddings), heel, etc. are used as elements of bottom grinderies. Especially, Shank is the segment of insole used for weight bearing of the shoe. It is usually made of metal, plastic, wood, etc. with flute or flat.

Construction of footwear are depends on method of attachment, cost of shoe, durability, material, purpose. I.e. stuck on, Good year welted, Veldtschoen, String, etc. A moulded and string lasting construction is used for sports shoe manufacturing. Californian construction is used for water proof shoe making. Stuck on or cemented construction is used commonly for commercial footwear making.

1.3 Shoe /Boot upper parts terminology. The upper parts of the footwear offer the customer‟s appearance, fit, purchasing ability, customer dependencies, etc. The upper components are divided into many categories according to design, standards, cost, fastening etc. The upper portion is a flexible area compared to the bottoms. The common terminology of the upper parts explained below. 1.3.1 Vamp upper: The vamp upper [Fig.1.1&1.2] is the most forepart of the shoe which covers most functional area of a shoe. Commercially, most of the design is developed in the vamp area because it is more visible area compared to the other parts. The vamp upper starts from toe area, extending around the quarter, eyelet facing. Sometime, Vamp upper covers whole upper portion. Such as Blucher. The vamp covers the ball girth of the feet. Vamp should be able withstand stress and strain from flexing of the foot when walking or running. Because the vamp part of the shoe is cut from the good quality leather. Such as butt region.

5 | P a g e Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear.

Figure 1.2 Upper components of Plain Oxford Footwear. The vamp is divided into various parts according to design and requirement. For an example, Toe cap, wing cap, Apron, mud guard, mid vamp, etc. 1.3.2 Wing cap upper: A wingcap [Fig.1.1] is angled back to give a streamlined effect[5]. This may cover the toes in an intricate flowing curve.Mostly, both side wings extends around waist area of the feather edge. Wing cap upper is in the form of „W‟ shaped. And this portion of a shoe is similar to a bird with an extended wing.

6 | P a g e Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear. 1.3.3 Toe cap upper: Toe cap upper [Fig.1.3] is the foremost of the shoe which covers toe area of a shoe. Often, the distance between ball girth and toe cap is around 20 millimeters. Toe cap upper is the most notice able component of a shoe. Therefore toe cap portion of the shoe made of remarkable design, such as toe flower, toe cording, etc. Often, the design of the toe cap portion is placed above the wall of a shoe.

Figure 1.3 Parts of Footwear (Oxford Toe cap). 1.3.4 Mid vamp upper: Mid vamp upper [Fig.1.1&1.3] is similar like a vamp upper .but it is separated by a toe cap or wing cap for design purpose. 1.3.5 Quarter upper: Quarter upper [Fig.1.1&1.2] as the name suggests are the pieces those forms approximately ¼th of the length of the shoes. Quarters portion of a shoe which are used for fastening of the shoes on to foot. [3]

7 | P a g e