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Fashion Accessories 1.0

- 6+1 Basic Shoe Styles & Its Variation.

Volume – 1

Author:
Mr.Abdul Rahuman M,

M.Sc. (CRD), UGC NET (J 2018), Jr. Faculty (SFDP).

Footwear Design & Development Institute- Hyderabad,

An “Institution of National Importance” as per FDDI Act, 2017

Under Ministry of Commerce & Industry, Govt. of India

Co-Author:
Mrs.Arshiya Banu M S,

Sira- 572137, Tumkur, Karnataka.

i

STARLET PUBLISHING

RZ 94, Sector - 6, Dwarka, New Delhi - 110075 Shubham Vihar, Mangla, Bilaspur, Chhattisgarh - 495001

Website: www.starletpublishing.in

_____________________________________________________________________________

© Copyright, 2020, Author

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, magnetic, optical, chemical, manual, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written consent of its writer.

ISBN: 978-93-90307-29-6 Price: Rs.442.00

The opinions/ contents expressed in this book are solely of the author and do not represent the opinions/ standings/ thoughts of Starlet.

Printed in India

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Dedication

I dedicate my humble effort to my loving and respected Mom, father and all my teacher (Maa, Pita and Guru)
Who makes me able to achieve such progress.

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PREFACE

First and foremost, I sincerely thank Respected Shri. Arun Kumar Sinha sir, (IAS,
Managing -Director, Footwear Design & Development Institute) and Respected Shri. Vikas Verma sir, (IRSME, Former Executive Director, Footwear Design & Development Institute) and FDDI Management for the support and motivation to complete this book.

It gives me immense pleasure to express my gratitude to former and present HODs and my colleagues for the support.
I would like to thank my wife and child for supporting the daily activities during COVID
19 Lockdown period.
I am indebted to the Starlet Publishing for publishing this book on time.Last and not least,
I would like to be grateful to all my students who spent time generating ideas and my well wisher who supported this task as much as possible.
This book series is a complete guide to understand the fashion accessories. In particular, the daily activities of footwear styles are used. This guide helps you understand the importance of footwear as functional aspects and style advice for an individual.
It also helps those who are planning a career in the footwear industry or who want to fill a gap in their knowledge of fashion. This manual deals with the basic styles of shoes and their variations, shoe sizing and footwear, parts terminology, foot anatomy and so on.
As we all know, the average walk of the individual throughout his life is approximately
1.00.000 miles. (1.60.934 km), therefore footwear played a vital role for an individual. Right footwear causes many foot problems. About 1, 00, 000 new projects are introduced every year. All shoe fashions based on 6 + 1 basic shoe styles. 6 indicate closed footwear and 1 indicates open footwear. These styles originate from infinite variations in 6 + 1 basic designs.
This manual is intended to be used as a resource book and contains several illustrations.I am glad to present the first edition of this book, especially designed to serve the needs of the students, faculty, industrialist and so on.
Information in this book is splitted into three parts. Part 1 explores the understanding of the essential parts and historical background of footwear, where the student can easily understand the styles of shoes.
Part 2 concentrates the anatomy of the foot, the shoe measurement system and the shoe last. Part 3 focuses on styling and style advisory, which supports designers and store keepers to understand the different shoe styles used on the basis of 6 + 1 basic shoe styles. In addition, we will discuss the basic styles of shoes and their variations.

  • Date: 24th May 2020
  • Mr. Abdul Rahuman M

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

PART 1 INTRODUCTION TO PARTS & HISTORY OF FOOTWEAR...................................................1

Chapter 1 Parts Terminology & Functions of Shoe/ Boot Upper................................. 2

1.1 INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................... 3 1.2 FOOTWEAR IN GENERAL ............................................................................................................ 3 1.3 SHOE /BOOT UPPER PARTS TERMINOLOGY .................................................................................. 5 1.4 LINING & INTERLINING .............................................................................................................14 1.5 ACCESSORIES & FASTENING ....................................................................................................15

Chapter 2 Parts Terminology & Functions of Shoe/ Boot Bottoms.............................21

2.1 INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................21 2.2 SHOE /BOOT BOTTOMS PARTS TERMINOLOGY ..........................................................................22 2.3 OUTSOLE ........................................................................................................................................24 2.4 HEEL ................................................................................................................................................27 2.5 TYPES OF HEEL ..................................................................................................................................28 2.6 OTHER BOTTOM COMPONENTS................................................................................................35

Chapter 3 Introduction to process of Footwear making…………...............................38

3.1 INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................38 3.2 BASIC STEPS INVOLVED IN CONSTRUCTION OF FOOTWEAR..........................................38

Chapter 4 History & Evolution of the Footwear…………………...............................43

4.1 INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................43 4.2 OBJECTIVES....................................................................................................................................43 4.3 CLASSIFICATION OF THE HISTORY OF FOOTWEAR...................................................................44 4.4 ANCIENT ERA. ...............................................................................................................................45 4.5 MIDDLE AGE (OR) POSTCLASSICAL ERA ....................................................................................49 4.6 EARLY MODERN PERIOD..............................................................................................................54 4.7 CONTEMPORARY PERIOD..............................................................................................................59

PART 2 ANATOMY OF FOOT, SHOE SIZING SYSTEM & SHOE LAST. ......................................66

Chapter 5 Foot Anatomy.................................................................................................67

5.1 INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................67 5.2 FOOT ANATOMY ............................................................................................................................68 5.3 JOINTS..............................................................................................................................................72 5.4 LIGAMENTS & TENDONS ...................................................................................................................73 5.5 ARCH ................................................................................................................................................75 5.6 CHANGES DURING GROWTH.........................................................................................................77

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5.7 FUNCTIONS OF FEET ...............................................................................................................80 5.8 INTRODUCTION TO BIO- MECHANICS .........................................................................................81 5.9 VARIOUS TROUBLE IN FEET ................................................................................................86

Chapter 6 Shoe Sizing System.........................................................................................95

6.1 INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................95 6.2 SHOE SIZE &DIMENSIONS..........................................................................................................96 6.3 TYPES OF SHOE SIZING SYSTEM..................................................................................................99 6.4 COMPARISON OF ONE SIZE WITH ANOTHER SIZE.................................................................. 106 6.5 SIZING & GRADING ........................................................................................................................ 107 6.6 MULTI FITTINGS.......................................................................................................................... 110 6.7 FOOT MEASURING & FITTING.................................................................................................... 110 6.8 SHOE FITTING AS A SINGLE IMPORTANT PROPERTY .............................................................. 112 6.9 FOOT CARE FOR AN INDIVIDUAL .................................................................................................... 113 6.10 FOOT MEASURING DEVICE ........................................................................................................... 114

Chapter 7 Shoe-Last.......................................................................................................121

7.1 INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................................. 121 7.2 DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE HUMAN FOOT AND SHOE LAST ................................................. 123 7.3 CLASSIFICATION OF SHOE LAST .............................................................................................. 124 7.4 SHOE-LAST TERMINOLOGY ...................................................................................................... 129 7.5 SHOE-LAST DEVELOPMENT ...................................................................................................... 132 7.6 SHOE-LAST MANUFACTURING................................................................................................. 134 7.7 SHOE-LAST ASSESSMENT.......................................................................................................... 136

PART 3 BASIC SHOE STYLES & ITS VARIATION.......................................................................... 140

Chapter 8 Closed Footwear Styles.-Oxford, Derby, Slip-on, Moccasin………………...141

8.1 INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................................. 141 8.2 BASIC SHOE STYLE & ITS VARIATION .................................................................................... 142 8.3 OXFORD SHOE STYLES & IT VARIATIONS .............................................................................. 142 8.4 DERBY SHOE STYLES & IT VARIATIONS................................................................................ 150 8.5 SLIP-ON SHOE STYLES & ITS VARIATION............................................................................... 156 8.6 MOCCASIN STYLES ..................................................................................................................... 163

Chapter 9 Closed Footwear Styles.- Court Shoes ……………………………………....168

9.1 INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................................. 168 9.2 COURT SHOE STYLE & ITS VARIATION................................................................................... 169

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Chapter 10 Closed Footwear Styles.- Boot .....................................................................179

10.1 INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................ 179 10.2 BASIC BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION .................................................................................. 180 10.3 HISTORICAL BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION...................................................................... 180 10.4 COMBAT BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION. ........................................................................... 184 10.5 WORK BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION ................................................................................. 188 10.6 FASHION BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION ............................................................................ 195 10.7 ATHLETICS / SPORTS BOOT STYLE & ITS VARIATION....................................................... 201

Chapter 11 Open Footwear Style....................................................................................205

11.1 INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................ 205 11.2 OPEN FOOTWEAR & THEIR VARIATIONS............................................................................... 206 11.3 HISTORICAL SANDALS STYLE & ITS VARIATION ............................................................... 206 11.4 WOODEN SANDAL STYLE & ITS VARIATION. ........................................................................... 184 11.5 OTHER TRADITIONAL SANDALS FROM INDIA................................................................................ 210 11.6 TOE HOLD SANDALS.................................................................................................................... 211 11.7 APRON SANDAL STYLE & ITS VARIATION......................................................................... 214 11.8 FASHION SANDAL STYLE & ITS VARIATION ................................................................. 214

Chapter 12 Multi Disciplinary........................................................................................222

12.1 INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................................................ 222 12.2 IDENTIFICATION OF FAULTS......................................................................................................... 223 12.3 INTRODUCTION TO HAND BAG...................................................................................................... 224 12.4 COMPONENT PARTS OF HANDBAGS. ............................................................................................ 224 12.5 CLASSIFICATION OF HANDBAGS .................................................................................................. 226 12.6 SEQUENCE OF TOOLING. .............................................................................................................. 229

REFERENCE…………………......................................................................................233 GLOSSARY……...……………......................................................................................236

  • vii
  • viii

Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear.

Part I

Introduction to Parts & History of
Footwear

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Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear.

Chapter- 1

Parts Terminology & Functions of Shoe/ Boot Upper.

Abstract:

This chapter focuses on understanding of essential parts of footwear, where learner can easily understand shoe styles. This chapter describes the elements and parts terminology and functional ability of shoe / boot uppers. The upper parts build the way that attracts the customer to the purchase, eye appeal, concept, etc. The upper components are mainly dependant on styling of the footwear. The objectives of this chapter are to determine how upper technology can be useful for people.

This chapter will begin with the quote by Cinderella that “ One shoe can change your life”.

Keywords: Vamp, Quarter, Lining, Upper components, etc.

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Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear.

1.1 Introduction:

The word style is from the Latin word “stylus” meaning a pen like ancient instrument used

to draw an outline. Other hand, style is associated with fashion. There are several steps involved to create new designs. Those are idea generations, design IB, research direction, etc. According to Merriem Webster, a shoe is defined as an outer covering portion of the feet. Safety, mobility and weight bearing are characteristics of a shoe.

A new design is also associated with many factors. Such as taste, gender, age, etc of the wearer, trend analysis, forecast, etc. Generally, segmentation on basis of Geographic, psychographics, demographics, behavior segmentation plays important role to create a new design. By the 1950‟s, however, as suit style became more conservative [2], Due to purchasing power of

individual, shoe style is on rise and women‟s trend is changing faster than men and children.

Around 1, 00, 000 new designs are being introduced every year. All shoe fashions based on
6+1 basic shoe styles. These styles are originated from endless variation in 6+1 basic designs. The origin of each design can be traced to one or more features introduced to meet some specific requirements or objectives. For an example, Brogue is unique variations of oxford shoes. Peep toe is clone of court shoe.

Objectives

After studying this chapter, you should be able to
• understand the anatomy of the footwear,

• explain the basic functions of the footwear,

• assess the shoe/boot upper parts terminology,

• describe the basic shoe styles and shoe upper parts.

Before starting a shoe style, learner should have an idea about parts and function of shoes.

1.2 Footwear in General.

1.2.1 Introduction

Generally, Footwear is an integral part of human living, which protects the feet from extremes of temperature, moisture and mechanical trauma. Footwear is outer covering portion of feet. This supports body weight bearing, mobility of individual which protects the feet from injuries. Mostly, fashion adapted. Fashion has dominance comfort and narrow footwear is desired. Largely, Commercial footwear has no toe room which raises crowding, pressures, etc. In Commercial, length of the feet is considered in footwear making. No group of human being has same feet shape. No two foot has the same shape or function. But commercially, standard feet width is only considered for footwear manufacturing, which is principle limitation.

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Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear.

1.2.2 Parts of footwear

There are a different shoe styles available in the market which differs in style lines, heel heights, toe shapes, etc.The look of each design can be found one or more features that are intended to meet some special purpose or utility. Classic, Casual, Sporty, Customized are different types of shoes which is based on utility of shoe.

Shoe last provides shape retention for footwear. Various forms of constructions and materials used depend on utility of footwear. English, French, midpoints are different sizing systems which is based on length and girth of feet. Heel height should be in balance with toe spring. Usually, the heel height of footwear depends on end user. I.e Heel height of women‟s footwear is

higher than men‟s footwear.

Figure 1.1 Parts of Footwear (Derby wing cap brogue).

The top portion of the footwear is called as upper .The upper is further attached to lining, inter lining, etc. Vamp, Quarter, Counter, Tongue, Collar, Facing, Saddle, etc are Upper components consisting the upper, Lining play a vital role in shoe, because it will be in direct contact with the feet during walking. Vamp lining, Quarter lining, Tongue lining, Heel grip, etc. are lining components. Toe puff, stiffener, backer, eyelet stay are used as interlining materials or grinderies

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Part I -Introduction to Parts & History of Footwear.

which provide additional support for shoe. Lace, Eyelet, Velcro, Buckle, etc are used as fastening elements, and it is also supports fitting of the shoe.

There are different materials used for production of single footwear. Leather, synthetic,

canvas, poly urethane, and poly vinyl chloride are used to prepare „the upper‟. Sole, Heel, Insole,

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  • Introduction to Leather Product Manufacturing

    Introduction to Leather Product Manufacturing

    KIOT Leather Engineering INTRODUCTION TO LEATHER PRODUCT MANUFACTURING PPT- 3 SHIKUR M. BASIC PARTS PARTS OF A SHOE The parts of shoe can be grouped broadly into those which make up the upper and those which constitute the sole and heel at bottom. The aim of this section is to identify the basic parts which go to make up uppers and bottoms. A. UPPER PART A simple upper consists of three basic parts: • The vamp, which covers the toes and forepart or front of the shoe. • The quarters which covers the middle of the foot. • The counter which covers the back of the foot. The top of the shoe which surrounds the opening for the foot is called the top line. The lower extremity where the upper meets the sole or insole is called the feather edge. When the patterns are cut, an additional margin is added to the feather edge which allows the upper to be attached to the rest of the shoe. This is called the lasting allowance. Example of Shoe and its Parts: DIFFERENT UPPER PARTS OF SHOE 1. VAMP Vamp often consists of a single piece of upper material. They may, however, consist of two separate pieces stitched together to make a whole. I.e. for example, Toecaps and wing caps A conventional toecap is set squarely across the shoe. A wing cap is angled back to give a streamlined effect. This may cover the toes in an intricate flowing curve or may lie simply round the wall edge of the last. In both cases, however, the wing cap and vamp extend to the lasting edge.
  • Mens Formal Shoes Guide

    Mens Formal Shoes Guide

    Mens Formal Shoes Guide emboldenIs Conroy unicameraland cantillating. or wistful Large when Nunzio sectarianised murders very some mysteriously ginkgoes dungswhile Emilsoberly? remains Arturo diminished is heavy-handed and viny. and economising gropingly while optative Corby Reserve them for Black Tie events. There are a number of different dress shoe styles and the particulars of each will be covered below. Was this article helpful for you? Brogues are such an interesting category of their own. Tassels or a kilt might hang from a saddle. And both are sturdy methods of construction. This does not change our opinion but does help support the site. The only difference is that instead of the classic lacing on top of the shoe, you will find it diagonally at an angle. In many ways the boots seemed to be a companion for these trousers during horse riding sessions. Some of their cheaper lines are imported, however. The Edward Green Dover is an iconic one, but my favorites are from Paolo Scafora and the Antonio Meccariello Centurion. Do you need to take your Shoes off at the Door? Feel Love In The Air With These! They were usually worn to play sports or with casual clothing. How long do you wear them for? Never miss out on a great deal again. What I do mean is that it is the most popular, solid construction out there for good shoes. But how do you choose the style? Depending on coloration, these can run from business formal to casual, but are considered to frivolous to be though of as formal.