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A Bilingual Glossary of Shoemaking Terminology

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A Bilingual Glossary of Shoemaking Terminology A Bilingual Glossary of Shoemaking Terminology General terminology English Term Definition Context Czech Term Definition Context footwear Wearing apparel (as shoes and “The shoemaker should study obuv - obecně V širším termínu je to každá „Způsob výroby rámové, boots) for the ' feet. (dic, 39) the foot that he has to clothe. He obuv, zakrývající lidskou nohu. flexiblové, prošívané, should know the shape of a (ECD, 217) kolíčkované, […]opánkové a perfect foot and the stages by obrácené obuvi patří mezi which it reaches full nejstarší výrobní způsoby.“ (Výr. development. He should know obuv. polot. II, 106) what would retard the development of the muscles and „Každý druh obuvi se vyrábí pro how to help such muscles as určitý, předem stanovený účel. require assistance. He should Vlastnosti obuvi musí odpovídat know the movements of which účelu, kterému má obuv sloužit. the foot is capable when it is Podle toho je stanoven tvar, unhampered by footwear, and obvodová skupina, materiál, how to construct footwear that výrobní způsob a celkové will not hamper those provedení. Obuv musí movements. He should also respektovat požadavky know the common foot troubles, zdravotně nezávadného their cause, and, if possible, how obouvání, odpovídat vkusu to relieve them.” (Boot and zákazníka a současným módním Shoe Man., 1) směrům.“ (Obuvnická technologie I, 20-21) shoe An outer covering for the foot. The “Those leathers in general use bota V severoamerickém rčení může „Boty jsou párovou součástí word is commonly used in the for the production of boots and termín zahrnovat kotníčkovou obuvi, která slouží k ochraně United, States as an inclusive term shoes, each distinct in its obuv, v britském rčení obuv, kryjící chodidla při chůzi. Existuje for the lower cut types of footwear; appearance by which it may be kotníkovou kost není považována mnoho druhů obuvi, které dělíme the higher cut types are called boots. identified, include lamb, the za Shoe. V širším smyslu, obzvl. dle jejího účelu, velikosti, (dic, 85) skin of a young sheep before it jako adjektivum, Shoe může historického období či pohlaví 1 In North American usage the term has cast its first wool, producing znamenat jakýkoliv druh obuvi nositele. Světově známý český shoes may include ankleboots, in a fine but very soft leather.” (punčochová není v to počítána). obuvník a velkovýrobce byl British usage no footwear covering (Golding II, 57) (ECD, 289) Tomáš Baťa.“ the anklebones is regarded as a shoe. (http://cs.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bot In a wider sense, particularly as an a) adjective, "shoe" mail mean any kind of footwear (hosiery not included) (ECD, 288) shoemaker Someone who makes shoes “It is probable that, in the first obuvník-někdy výrobce obuvi (ECD, 99) „Úkolem obuvníka je vyrábět a place, foot coverings were made se též používá ve opravovat všechny druhy obuvi. NOTE: the most only for the family; then the best významu opravář Obuvník zpravidla pracuje buď general term makers undertook to supply the obuvi jako strojní obuvník, který v needs of their neighbours, and obuvnické továrně vyrábí boty, thus it became profitable for a nebo jako obuvník pro opravy, section of the community to který se v obuvnické dílně nebo practise as shoemakers.” přímo v opravně obuvi zabývá (Golding VIII, 3) opravami poškozených bot.“(http://www.occupationsgui de.cz/cz/povol/povolani.aspx? Par=427.htm) cordwainer Old British term for shoemaker. (dic, “By the twelfth and thirteenth odborný Archaický termín pro osobu, která Používá se velmi zřídka a může 24) centuries, English cordwainers obuvník je kvalifikovaným obuvníkem. znít archaicky, až nepřirozeně. NOTE: becoming had formed themselves into (ECD, 187) Zde uvedeno spíše pro ilustraci dated companies for the purpose of rozdílu u aglických protějšků. protection and the setting up of conditions of employment and trading. These companies and guilds, however, outgrew their usefulness, and many craftsmen broke away from conditions which, in some cases, approached industrial slavery.” (Golding VIII, 3) cobbler A repairer or maker of shoes. (dic, “The Cobbler in švec švec, příštipkář (ECD, 23) „Zní to zvláštně, ale pokud máte 2 21) Chu Chin Chow has high ideals skutečně kvalitní boty (od Loake NOTE: also when he sings— POZN.: zažito i výše), nenechte na nich pracovat becoming The better I work, the less I pro výrobce obuvi příštipkáře, ale mistry.“ (http:// somewhat dated earn, www.elegantne.cz/encyklopedie- For the soles won't crack, nor mody/cistirny-sevci-krejcovske- the uppers turn. salony/) The better my work, the less my pay, „Významy slov se mohou někdy But work can only be done one posunout velmi radikálně. way.” (Golding II, 165) Původně byl např. příštipkář švec, který dělal drobné opravy. Ve 30. letech ale toto řemeslo zmizelo a dnes už pod tímto slovem rozumíme jen člověka, který dělá drobné nepodstatné práce, protože nic jiného neumí.“ (ktf.cuni.cz/~ryskova/Exegese- metody/Vyklad%20textu- pracovni%20verze%20jen %20pro%20KTF.doc) „Pohasíná sláva blatenských ševců, která započala za tereziánských a pak napoleonských válek velkými zakázkami pro erár a vyvrcholila v druhé polovině 19. století. Nejrozšířenější řemeslo v blatné přežilo ještě 1. světovou válku, brzy poté se však dostavila tvrdá expanze a konkurence zlínské firmy Baťa. Houstnoucí síť baťovských prodejen sériově vyráběné, a proto lacinější obuvi učinila z blatenských ševců 3 postupně příštipkáře, kteří se museli spokojit už jen s opravami rozbitých bot.“ (http:// www.blatensko.com/ostatni/histo rie.php) last A piece of wood, metal or synthetic “There uppers and bottoms are kopyto Napínací kopyto je forma vyrobená „Kopyta jsou jedním z material roughly following the shape joined by one of .many z materiálu jako je dřevo nebo nejdůležitějších pomocných of the foot and acting as a | form on different methods so that they plastická hmota, přes níž je přetažen zařízení pro výrobu obuvi. which the shoe is made. As a verb, now commence to look like svršek obuvi (napnut) aby dostal tvar Vyznačují tvar, délku a objem to shape a fitted upper to the last shoes. The shape is here obuvi. Jiné druhy kopyt jsou nohy podle jejího anatomického using the stretch of the leather (or obtained by building the upper používány při napínání narážením složení. Na kopytě se také other material) and then fix it and bottom into one over a last nebo jsou umísťovány do obuvi v projevují výrobní, účelové a temporarily or permanently to the which is subsequently pozdějších etapách dokončování módní požadavky. Zhotovují se insole. (dic, 55) removed.” (Shoemaking, 3) nebo pro žehlení a ostatní dílenské ze dřeva, kovu, nebo plastů.“ operace. Kovová nožka používaná (Obuvnická technologie, 38) “The word forme is derived při lisovacím postupu je také někdy from the French word for last, nazývána kopyto. (ECD, 243) but the term is used in pattern cutting to signify the shape that is produced to represent the area of one side of a last.” (Golding I, 5) (shoe) tree A last shaped form over “It is the custom in bespoke tvar (1, 2), 1. Kopytově tvarovaná forma ze „Na dobu odpočinku je Vaše which a completed shoe is shops to show pairs of napínák (2) dřeva nebo kovu, na níž je umístěna obuv vybavena napínákem, placed for final ironing, shoes on wooden trees in the obuv pro konečné žehlení, úpravu a který zajistí dokonalou tvarovou finishing and dressing of window, but this is rather a apretování svršku. stabilitu v průběhu přirozeného the upper in the packing special feature. They certainly 2. Může také znamenat kopytově vysoušení. room. (dic, 102) look well so displayed and it tvarovanou formu, umístěnou v V případě nepoužití napínáků also indicates to the customer obuvi pro držení tvaru. (ECD, 315) nedojde k poškození obuvi ale that it is the way his shoes musíte počítat s tím že se obuv should be kept when not in začne tvarovat do tvaru wear.” (Golding VII, 172-173) obráceného oblouku "gondoly".“ (http://www.mpshoes.cz/www/in 4 dex.php?call=udrzba) rubber “A material that is capable of “So that for house shoes and pryž Pryž je elastický materiál „Nohy jsou ohrožovány i recovering from I large slippers, we provide soles of (slang. = guma) vyrobený srážením latexu z neustálými tvrdými dopady na deformations quickly and forcibly, thin flexible leather, or even of různých stromů a keřů» beton, asfalt, dlažbu - to se and can be, or already is, modified felt or rubber; while for následované praním, uzením a časem může projevit to a state in which it is essentially farmers' and miners' boots the vulkanizováním.Syntetické pryže opotřebením kostí, kloubů a insoluble. Strictly defined, it is a soles are usually of stout dense se používají ve větší míře. (ECD, kloubních chrupavek dolních material made from the extract of leather, reinforced with hob 281) končetin a poškozením páteře. the rubber plant, or synthetic nails or metal plates.” (Golding Prevencí může být kvalitní versions of the same material. III, 6-7) podešev s dobrými tlumícími Loosely used to denote any vlastnostmi (PUR, EVAC, pryž), elastomeric material with similar pružné vkládací vložky, physical properties and podpatěnky a anatomicky appearance. Rubber may be tvarované stélky z pružných expanded to cellular form for materiálů, které dokonale sponge or cushion and is rozdělují zatížení na celou commonly used for cemented or plochu nohy a tlumí nárazy při molded shoe bottoms, as well as chůzi.“ for separate soles and heels. (http://www.coka.cz/index.php? Protective footwear may also be option=com_content&task=view made of rubber, either slush &id=22&Itemid=33) molded or fabricated from RNDr. Pavla Šťastná, Ph.D. sheeting or rubberized cloth. Also known as "caoutchouc" or "India rubber."“ (dic, 80) leather The end product of a hide “Before dealing with the useň - vyčiněná V podstatě kůže nebo kožka „Hověziny jsou univerzální or skin after processing by processes performed in the kůže, či kožka zpracovaná takovým způsobem, aby surovinou pro výrobu všech tanning, that still retains its Clicking Department it is first byla zvýšena její odolnost proti druhů usní, tedy nejen original fibrous structure desirable that we should study rozkladu konzervováním její obuvnických, ale i brašnářských more or less intact.
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