December 15, 2018 The Year in Dining 2018 Restaurant critic Pete Tittl, Californian staff and community members look back at the Bakersfield restaurant scene 2 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year in Dining 2018 This year’s guide gives up plenty to chew on

BY STEFANI DIAS [email protected]

ood is a special topic since, unlike other ne- HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN cessities in life, it’s actual fun to discuss. Along Sung Suh of ReMix Asian Kitchen holds a North Shore shrimp plate. Suh says the shrimp plate is found on the North with common getting-to-know-you ques- Shore of Hawaii. He serves it with his own potato and macaroni salad and his special coleslaw. Ftions like “What do you do for a living?” and “Are you married?,” people usually want to know where you like to dine or what you enjoy eating. While many people don’t make it past the con- versation stage, some hit the keyboard to com- pose love letters to their favorite restaurants and dishes. Foremost is The Californian’s restaurant Pile on meat or go plant-based: critic Pete Tittl, who in this guide shares with us his best-of lists for 2018. He starts by looking at trends, which ran the gamut from meat-centric barbecue — enjoying a local revival — to the continued rise of plant- Diners have best of both worlds based alternatives. The latter is not only good news for the vegetarians and vegans in the com- BY PETE TITTL restaurants this year, and you find rather than full time. Restaurants munity but also those looking for a healthier diet, For The Californian Dad’s Barbecue in Shafter (worth the catering to that can benefit from that. balancing those burgers from Moo Creamery Things are changing in the restau- drive), Prime Time BBQ Meats & Deli Just look at how things are changing (like the behemoth on our cover) with a salad rant business in ways that would have (downtown), Pork Chop & Bubba’s (a across the board. 24th Street Cafe from Locale Farm to Table or Firestone Grill. (Pete been hard to imagine five years ago. very humble place like most barbecue offers a burger made with an Impos- recommends the spot for its barbecue and its Even in Bakersfield. places are) and Remix Asian Kitchen sible brand meatless patty. Try it and greens under our casual dining list.) People are eating differently, and (Hawaiian/Asian fusion barbecue), you’ll understand. Even the hot spot Speaking of casual dining, Bakersfield has its the industry has been affected by veg- all after Brooklyn’s BBQ and Salty’s ex- for carnivores, Firestone Grill, has plate full, with Tittl naming more than 20 spots anism and plant-based diets, the rise panding to two locations in previous been promoting a vegetarian option, to relax and nosh. For occasions that warrant of the ketogenic diet, gluten-free op- years boosted the availability of this an avocado sandwich that I under- a finer dining experiences, he has his top 10 tions and more. Sure, the old standby type of food. I’d even throw Cowboy stand has been a hit at their San Luis recommendations. steakhouses and Mexican restaurants Chicken in the mix even though it’s a Obispo location. And no guide would be complete without his are there but when you look at places Texas-based chain that specializes in This is a trend with momentum. must-order items. Of course, chile verde, in its like Cafe Smitten and Locale Farm to wood-fired rotisserie chicken rather They may not get you completely, but many forms — solo or on top of bean dip or a Table you see different fare available than a full barbecue place. one meal at a time and before you pizza — made the cut as did the home cooking of that is not just designed to attract mil- But let’s get back to the healthy fare, know it you’ve sworn off red meat. Cope’s Knotty Pine Cafe, the hot and spicy shrimp lennials. Aging baby boomers may be as that’s a growth field and we have You’ve been warned. at Lam’s, the fire chicken at Crazy BBQ and much, opting for a tad less red meat. Declin- seen poke bowl places pop up all over The classy casual trend has contin- much more. ing health can motivate effectively. town. Sushi got popular long ago, ued both nationwide and in Bakers- In the courtroom, attorneys must wait for What’s been happening here this so this is a logical step and usually a field. You see it in places like Sonder, judges or juries to render a verdict, but in the year that seems to be a direct coun- better value. And you have places like which emphasize a relaxed dining dining room they call the shots. Top legal eagles terpoint to that trend has been a Better Bowls thriving downtown. I format that seems more in tune with H.A. Sala and David Torres share their favorites in full-on barbecue revival. I remember wonder if places like this benefit from millennials than a formal fine din- town. the days when all we had in town people who are “trending vegetarian” ing experience. The idea of ordering And Mossman’s possibly oldest longtime cus- was Hickory House and Mr. Tibbs, rather than fully committed vegetari- at a counter and having your food tomer, Ken Vetter, sat down with Herb Benham but with all the great new options in ans. I’ve known some people who go delivered to the table (Cafe Smitten) to discuss his favorite local spot. At age 90, the in- town in recent years, especially 2018, a day or so at a time on a is something familiar to younger surance agent has been eating at the coffee shop we could eventually make a name for plant-based clientele, and there are advantages inside Westchester Bowling Alley daily since 1951. ourselves, maybe not on the level of diet to that system for the house (fewer Journalists dig for loose change for lunch as Austin, Memphis, Kansas City, Nash- employees). hard as they dig for dirt on their stories, so we ville or Charleston, S.C., but at One trend that truly does make tapped our team for their picks as well. Sports least impressive enough sense for Bakersfield has been the editor Teddy Feinberg, who moved to Bakersfield to make a mark in Cali- emphasis on locally sourced prod- last year, continues to explore the local dining fornia, a state really not ucts that you see at places like scene and shared his current obsession: the known for great barbecue. Locale, and the success of oper- breakfast burrito at Donut Nation and Estrella And barbecuing meats ations like Autonomy Farms, Bakery. dates back to Colonial which can tout a recent men- Columnist Robert Price outdid himself — is times. George Washington tion in the New York Times that even possible? — by venturing out to try wrote about barbecuing in for supplying L.A.-based as many Buffalo wings as he could cram into a his diaries. It’s American! restaurants. That old idea happy hour. He shares some favorites but admits Just look at the gems that we do live in America’s the search continues. on the list of best new breadbasket sure would If this was appetizer enough, dig into this FELIX ADAMO / THE CALIFORNIAN seem to be a natural asset guide and start planning your next local dining for our restaurants. adventure. American bowl from Better Bowls. Please see TRENDS | 4 Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 3 4 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year in Dining 2018 Best new restaurants Passionate entrepreneurs make their mark

BY PETE TITTL tri-tip sandwich, made with beef For The Californian marinated in Korean spices, is in itself amazing and a must-try on the first hile 2018 didn’t see the explo- visit. We’ve also loved the lemon fried sion of exciting new restau- chicken sandwich, the North Shore rants we saw the previous shrimp and the pulled pork fried rice. Wyear, we did get a nice mix of Look for a report in The Californian stylish eateries that will probably be soon about new menu items. The keeping us happy for years. place is small, located amidst medical Here are the nominees: and dental offices, but it’s worth seek- ing out. DAD’S BBQ & CATERING 189 E. Lerdo Highway in Shafter ROLLS AND GRILL A very small humble, family-run 3803 Ming Ave. place that concentrates on barbecue You may notice a theme developing prepared with dry rubs, though there here. Young entrepreneur with a pas- are house-made sauces on the side. sion for food opens small place with The chicken is a particularly smoky decent food at moderate prices trying delight, and the brisket would not be to attract customers sharing their rejected in Texas, which is high praise. sensibilities. Owners are Dr. Dahn Worth recommending are the bacon Nguyen, a local family doctor, and his mac n cheese burger and the bris- wife, Loan, who described herself on ket cheeseburger (with pepper jack the restaurant’s Facebook page as a cheese, coleslaw and barbecue sauce), “food enthusiast who dreamt of hav- as well as the chicken wings, which are ing her own Banh Mi stand one day.” smoked before frying. I think you can see that passion in the HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN rolls and sandwiches. So much to like Grilled chicken with rice and salad, foreground, and crispy egg rolls in back here, from the grilled chicken spring from Rolls and Grill. rolls to the sandwiches on French ba- guettes. Also bahn mi, pho and kalbi. Atmosphere isn’t much, but the food is NARDUCCI’S BURGERS & ITALIAN ICES the buns are worthy. Love the old am- fresh and tasty. 2014 O St. biance, too — like Luigi’s, it’s a place Entrepreneur Trevor Crowder has that wears its history proudly. PRIME TIME BBQ, MEATS & DELI created a folksy restaurant in the 1927 20th St. “Eastchester” neighborhood that has REMIX ASIAN KITCHEN What used to be Big Popy’s Deli the quality of its pioneering neighbor 9450 Stockdale Highway just off F Street transformed itself last Cafe Smitten. The vegetables that he Owner Sung Suh has created a fun summer into an amazing place with uses in the alluring big salads or sand- place that fuses Hawaiian and other burgers and barbecue all made with wiches are farmers market fresh. There Asian cuisines, and like some of the Harris Ranch products. The deboned are other little details that make the other young entrepreneurs at work chicken breast is an amazing creation HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN restaurant great: The chips are home- in this business, he’s always tweaking that I’ve been trying unsuccessfully Trevor Crowder, owner of Narducci’s Burgers & Italian made, the beef used in the burger the menu. So much to recommend Ice at 2104 O St. patties tastes fresh ground and juicy, here, though the specialty, the bulgogi Please see BEST NEW RESTAURANTS | 5

have a new tenant in that strip per about hints about a national TRENDS mall on White Lane. Brink’s Deli, chain that everyone knows (Claim Continued from PAGE 2 famous for the garlicky Italian Jumper? Cheesecake Factory?) beef sandwich that we’ve enjoyed opening a new location in our fair THE DEARLY DEPARTED for decades, also closed its doors city. Fatburger is coming to the Every year we lose some restau- this year. The closing yet to come east side at the corner of Oswell rants that we will miss. Flame is Mexicali West, which has been and Bernard, Fuego’s Bar & Grill Burger in Rosedale was a fasci- sold and will reportedly be con- is opening a brick-and-mortar nating high-end concept from verted into another restaurant. location at Coffee Road and the folks who brought us Juicy Last day is set for Dec. 31, so you Downing Avenue, and Garrisons Burger, and I loved both the food, still have time to go and pay your Seafood Express is due to open the Plexiglas towers of draft beer respects to the family that is a on Panama Lane as well as the and the gas-burning walls on restaurant pioneer in Bakersfield. Barbecue Factory Steakhouse the patio. Some issue involving And we lost Cindy’s for underde- at the old Cactus Valley location a lease renewal was supposedly termined reasons. I heard from on Rosedale Highway. And one the root of its demise. Cactus readers who claimed to have been of the fastest-growing national Valley on Rosedale Highway also going to the breakfast and lunch chains, Raising Cane’s, is opening closed after going through a few coffee shop for 38 years! just north of Rosedale Highway. owners and is in the process of And 2019 will bring us Smitten, being transformed into Barbecue HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN COMING IN 2019 the new full service restaurant in Factory Steakhouse. T.L. Maxwell’s Cowboy tacos from Locale Farm To Table Eatery. In the new year, we have much the southwest from the owners of closed its doors rather abruptly to look forward to. The buyer of Cafe Smitten downtown. this year after owner Terry started is. Look for a report on Horse in a true supporter of live musical the Mexicali Southwest building God willing, look for more moving into talk radio, a new ad- the Alley, the new restaurant lo- entertainment in the southwest, is supposedly going to turn it into reports on these and other restau- venture that called him away from cated there, soon. B. Ryder’s, one also was shuttered during 2018, a new restaurant, and I’ve read in rants every Sunday in The Califor- the time consuming business this of our favorite sports bars and but as of press time we do not Bob Price’s columns in this pa- nian. Happy dining! Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 5

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS The Year Continued from PAGE 4 in Dining to duplicate, with the meat so crispy did some catering and got more pas- and smoky on the outside and sliced sionate about his food. You can see 2018 into strips that made it perfect for the it on every plate. The biggest flaw is top of a salad. The tri-tip is also extra you may get there after he’s run out smoky. Neither is too dry, too, which is of slow-smoked meats. Too much to a hazard with smokers. The chili beans recommend, but the chicken is a reve- are also amazing with tomato and bits lation. The pork ribs, beef brisket of all sorts of leftover meats inside. and tri-tip, all smoked with dry rubs, are also so well done. There are house- URBANE CAFE made sauces, including a startling 2658 Mount Vernon Ave. mustard sauce, if you’re so inclined to This small California chain offers indulge. healthy, fresh food in a busy area of the northeast. We’re talking tasty soups, MAMMA MIA salads and sandwiches made with 1804 Chester Ave. fresh-baked focaccia bread and cook- This new downtown Italian restau- ies, prepared in the oven located right rant opened by a former Luigi’s em- near the cash register. My absolute ployee is still a work in progress, but favorite is the Santa Maria barbecue early returns are very impressive, and chicken salad ($9.25), with a combi- it will be fun to see how the passion nation of ingredients and a startling project evolves. Everything we sam- freshness that was reminiscent of pled on our visits has been above places like Cafe Smitten: roasted in average to great: porcini sacchetti (ri- house barbecue chicken breast grilled cotta/porcini mushroom stuffed pasta HENRY A. BARRIOS / TBC MEDIA with a house-made blackberry barbe- purses with a brown butter sauce), A pork chop with Isabella salad served at Mamma Mia restaurant located on cue sauce, a chopped salad slaw and a braised short rib ravioli, Scottish Chester Avenue. wonderful corn and black bean salsa. salmon filet with caramelized walnuts The cookies are up to the standards of and pecans and the house-made amazing side dishes such as tomato Mix Asian and Pork Chop & Bubba’s Sweet Surrender and Sugar Twist. gelatos. Service still needs the Mama cucumber salad, twice-baked “Po- BBQ. The common thread: on-site Tosca’s professionalism, but that could taters,” solid peach and apple cobblers owners who are passionate about PORK CHOP & BUBBA’S BBQ come in time. and amazing sandwiches made with food, quality and always ready to tin- 1230 H St. that smoky, juicy chicken. A good ker and change to move their restau- Owner Branden Slichter is a former COWBOY CHICKEN to-go meal is available, as the dining rant up a level and keep customers welder who got into barbecuing as a 5620 California Ave. room can be small and crowded. coming through the door. You see all hobby, won some competitions This Texas chain specializes in that on every plate. If you haven’t tried as far away as Kansas City, wood-fired rotisserie chicken and The winner: It’s a tie between Re- them yet, do not delay.

Looking for the Perfect Event Venue? 2018 REHEARSAL DINNER • RETIREMENT PARTY • INTIMATE WEDDING RECEPTION • BIRTHDAY PARTY • COMPANY FUNCTIONS • ANNIVERSARY We offer customized fine dining food choices with full bar options in our spacious 2,100 square foot banquet room, new private Best Chef: Preeda Piamfa Mandalay Room plus full off-site catering services

2018 Gift Cards and Gift Packages with house Sweet & Sour Sauce

Favorite Downtown Restaurant

Follow Our Facebook Page No MSG Added 6 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year in Dining Best casual dining: 2018 Local scene is bursting with options

few restaurants can meet (my Buca di Beppo in town, but daughter loves it with a dose we’ve got something better of hot sauce). They’ve been — Frugatti’s, or, as they bill it, adding to the menu along the “Italian food by real Italians.” way, with a new steak sand- Seriously, the pizzas are al- wich (with cilantro, sautéed ways amazing, the pastas are fennel and aioli) as well as a al dente and no strangers to “hummus smash” sandwich garlic and real Italian herbs (avocado, cucumber, radish and the consistency of the op- and heirloom tomatoes). We’ll eration is admirable. be trying those soon. Great Castle Chinese Restaurant Coconut Joe’s Beach Grill 410 Union Ave., 325-3311 4158 California Ave., 327-1378, coconutjoes.com Sad that the founder, Tzu Chun Wang, died this year. This restaurant is always “Papa Sun” retired in 2005 adding great new things, and but he continued to visit the in recent years that has in- restaurant daily. A former sol- cluded outstanding fish and dier in Taiwan, he came to Cal- chips, better desserts, amaz- ifornia in 1972 to build a better ing chicken soup, decent clam life, creating a restaurant that chowder, coconut shrimp, has become a Bakersfield the salmon salad … in fact it’s institution while living out been so long since I ordered the American Dream. This my old standby, the tri-tip and Cantonese restaurant that has chicken plate. so many amazing specialties such as walnut shrimp, kung Crest Bar & Grill pao beef, sizzling rice soup, 5025 Wible Road, 833-9998, crestbarandgrill.com shrimp fried rice — too many great choices if you visit often. Almost every time I’ve vis- I know some are leery of this ited it’s crowded, even when neighborhood, but we’ve seen GREG NICHOLS FOR TBC MEDIA the RV park isn’t full. Hmm. a guard stationed in the park- Wonder why? Could be the ing lot to keep vehicles safe Above: BY PETE TITTL a chicken piccata omelet, Bootlegger’s Craft Pub & quality of the sandwiches, while you dine. Scallops For The Californian crepes stuffed with sweet Eatery salads, dinners, stuffed mush- linguine cream cheese and topped 955 Oak St., 322-2123, rooms, prime rib and the Jake’s Tex-Mex Cafe from he casual dining scene with sliced banana, brown bootleggersbakersfield.com special Oktoberfest menu that 1710 Oak St., 322-6380, jak- Frugatti’s. is prospering in Bakers- sugar and rum, an amazing came and went. The pastrami estexmex.com Bootleggers Craft Pub & field. So much so that smoked tri-tip scramble gone wild sandwich is an old Eatery is never going to end Like Luigi’s, Jake’s has we couldn’t limit the with red and yellow peppers favorite I’ve raved about in the T up on the high-end cuisine evolved over the years from Below: list to fewer than 20 that are and pepper jack cheese past. Very juicy burgers and list, but the fare shows verve a pit beef and garlic chicken Pastrami worth your time and money. (what I finally ordered) solid breakfasts, too. and imagination to match the lunch spot to a place that has gone wild Here they are, some new, and house-made Kentucky craft beers they serve on tap, super chili, tempting desserts, sandwich some quite established: chicken sausage with eggs. Firestone Grill killer happy hour, great burg- swift cafeteria service despite from Crest Vegetarians will also like the 3501 California Ave., no phone, ers and sandwiches. Others the lines and the kind of food Bar & Grill. 24th Street Cafe expanded choices on that firestonegrill.com/ trying to master this concept that while maybe more Tex 1415 24th St., 323-8801, sheet, such as the soyrizo bur- firestone-grill-bakersfield have failed. Not the Boot. than Mex always inspires in- 24thstreetcafe.com rito, veggie omelet made with My daughter living in Santa satiable cravings that require egg whites and the meatless There are so many great Cafe Smitten Monica has become an aficio- regular visits. In recent years, Impossible burger. Don’t even offerings on the regular menu, 909 18th St., 843-7305, nado of good tri-tip and I’ve I’ve grown to appreciate the get me started on the sun- such as fried trout with eggs cafesmitten.com yet to take her here. That mis- lemon cake (most people can’t dried tomato scramble with for breakfast (who else offers take will be rectified soon. The get past the chocolate) and Brie and prosciutto. My sister- This restaurant has the that anymore?), but I can’t get pulled pork sandwich with the those chocolate chip cookies in-law swears the huevos ran- perfect name as we were in past the specials insert, which buttery bun is great also, and with the chocolate cream cheros are unparalleled. love from the first visit with on a recent visit featured the large salads are amazing. cheese frosting in the middle. both the food and the casual Interesting place as they won’t … after a simple burrito or L.A. vibe without all the head- take orders by phone; in fact a big salad. Well, life is good. aches such as insane traffic or they don’t event have a listed Visit for dinner — the food is snooty people. Glad to hear phone number. This is a place just as tempting late at night, that Shai and Stasie Bitton, that goes its own way, but af- and it’s less crowded. the entrepreneurs who gam- ter you’ve tasted the fare you’ll bled on this converted tire put up with that. The beef Lino’s Mexican Cuisine shop, will be opening a new and the ribs are smoked, and 2911 Taft Highway, 381-7612, full-service restaurant merely it makes all the difference. The facebook.com/ called Smitten in the south- ABC burger is outstanding too. linosmexicancuisine west late in 2019. The original The fries are ordinary. There, is the perfect place for a light I know if you live in the I found something to gripe breakfast/snack/healthy food. northwest or east side, Pump- about. Few, after trying the Moroccan kin Center is a long drive away eggs, are able to avoid order- — seems like you’re going to Frugatti’s ing them every time in the fu- Taft — but the reward is excel- 600 Coffee Road, 836-2000, ture, and don’t get me started frugattis.com lent food at Lino’s with prices on the avocado toast, which HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN set a standard in my mind that I used to wish we had a Please see BEST CASUAL | 8 Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 7 8 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year This is not one of those chicken steak with eggs for burrito to the grilled salmon and lettuce) and sincroni- BEST CASUAL places that no one knows breakfast or the Mediterra- salad or the lamb tacos. I, for zada (large tortilla filled with in Dining Continued from PAGE 6 about. Everyone who’s been nean omelet. This is the kind the longest time, was hooked cheese, ham, spicy salsa and living here more than a year of place that offers Himalayan on the Hudson burger with its sour cream). In short, what 2018 that seem too low. So many knows how great this once sea salt at each table. It’s this fried egg and bacon on top, the kitchen is doing here is not love the pork belly tacos, but humble east Bakersfield place attention to detail that makes but last time I enjoyed the your typical Mexican fare. I’m partial to the pork barba- is. The worst part about it is Milt’s an amazing place al- James burger with grilled on- coa with its house-made ba- the wait, but people are pa- ways, and, unlike 24th Street, ions and lots of veggies. They Pork Chop & Bubba’s BBQ con chipotle barbecue sauce. tient because they know the they’re open for dinner with just do a lot right at this place, 1230 H St., 520-4227, The sandwiches, the scallops, reward is ahead. I’ve been rav- full bar service. and you can see them working porkchopandbubbasbbq.com the shrimp diablo and a ing about that stuffed chicken in the kitchen if you’re sitting chicken dish called pollo al breast for years, but that’s just at the bar. Jazzed-up hot dogs Former welder Branden horno are also excellent. Taco a small part of it. The Saturday were added to the menu in Slichter took up barbecuing as Tuesdays are special because burgers, the pastrami sand- the past year, but they are so a hobby, won some competi- those pork belly tacos are wich, the trademark half and popular on some of our visits tions, started a catering busi- half-price. half, the mushroom ravioli they’ve been out. ness and this year opened a with the sage butter sauce. So humble little place just east of much worth recommending. the BHS campus that has the New Vintage Grill They do have a small glu- most amazing smoked meats. 9901 Hageman Road, 829-6814, ten-free menu, too. newvintagegrill.com You know a restaurant is good when they run out of food on New Vintage Grill is another some days, so get there early Mama Roomba restless restaurant, always or face possible crushing 1814 Eye St., 322-6262, HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN mamaroomba.com striving to get better, and it’s disappointment. One of the Moo Creamery chocolate one of those restaurants that best new restaurants to open It’s become a downtown cream pie when you’re finished you walk locally in 2018. institution even though it’s out saying, “We have to get so small and located in the here more often.” Breakfast Moo Creamery Remix Asian Kitchen old home to the late Luigi the (pancakes, special potatoes) 4885 Truxtun Ave., 861-1130, 9450 Stockdale Highway, Tailor. My companion loves moocreamery.com and the interesting way they 847-9331, facebook.com/ the beans and plantains, the use veggies in sandwiches remixasiankitchen chicken, the pork chops, the If I’m on a diet, I can’t go to (the Mazzafiata burger with HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN cool urban vibe, the tiny bar Moo. From appetizers to des- its roasted Roma tomatoes, This place is amazing with and pineapple chandelier, serts, the food is too good, and arugula and pesto aioli; that its Korean/Asian/American Creamy Locale Farm to Table Eatery while I’m partial to the skillet it would take a will of steel pastrami sandwich with the food mix. Chicken curry rice, potato and 1723 18th St., localefarmtotable. shrimp in cream sauce and not to overeat. Now that the caramelized onions) make chicken katsu, shrimp the way leek soup com the hot garlic wings. It’s the weather is cooling down, get this a gem of a restaurant. you get them in Hawaii. So kind of distinctive restau- the chili. Or the fresh-cut fries. much to recommend. A new from Locale The salads, the sandwiches, rant that has helped give our Or the fabulous burgers, espe- Nuestro Mexico restaurant off to a strong start. Farm To the soups, this is a restaurant downtown a great dining cially the 24 hour burger with 716 21st St., 637-1343, facebook. The bulgogi tri-tip is unlike Table Eatery. that is like visiting a great identity. the egg on top. The meatloaf is com/nuestro.mexico.restaurant anything else served in our chef’s kitchen at home, a chef the perfect comfort food. Love city. Look for a full report on who has a connection to some Located in what was the Milt’s Coffee Shop the ice cream, but the pastries the new menu in The Califor- of the freshest produce and original home of La Costa 6112 Knudsen Drive, 399-4975, and cookies are so killer that nian in the coming weeks. quality meats and cheeses Mariscos, this is a small, low- miltscoffeeshop.org choosing dessert is painful. that you can find. Jackfruit key place that you almost A great place for vegetarians, Sonder is the trendy meat substitute Milt’s, like 24th Street Cafe have to know about to visit. So too, as their options there are 9500 Brimhall Road, plant food and the kitchen (same family ownership), has much we love here, the fajitas, exceptional. There is always 247-0000, facebook.com/ here was offering it in tacos some seriously great monthly the chicken or beef Colorado, something surprising, like the SonderBakersfield this year. That and things like specials. My favorite this the tacos that lifestyle website salmon tacos. I’ve never been the grilled vegetable sandwich fall was the bacon-wrapped Thrillist listed as some of the Sonder is the kind of place disappointed. really win hearts and minds bratwurst with grilled pep- best in the state (that’s an all ages can go to chill, eat, over to the plant-based diet, pers and onions served on a honor!). So many things we’ve drink, have conversations, Muertos Kitchen and but their burgers and tri-tip crispy Pyrenees bun offered tried here in the past have sit on sofas, play games Lounge sandwiches are to die for. in October, capped by that impressed us, including the and generally enjoy a night 1514 Wall St., 324-2557, Like a good politician, they month’s special dessert, facebook.com/pages/ fish filet with chile verde and out at a place that has been try to please everybody, and it German chocolate cake that Muertos-Kitchen-and-Lounge shrimp, the enchiladas suizas working so hard to make that works. Try the cowboy tacos or any bakery would be proud served stacked rather than Canadian specialty poutine chicken Parmesan melt. to offer — and a steal at only A very fun, personal place rolled and a couple of their (well-dressed French fries) a $5 for a very wide slice. They with too many must-orders appetizers: the pambazos (two popular option locally. They Luigi’s make their own pastrami here on the menu. It’s worth visit- small Mexican breads filled understand the key is the 725 E. 19th St., 322-0926, shop- and it’s quite special. A good ing a few times to explore, as with chorizo, potatoes, spicy sauce/gravy; it’s worth ordering luigis.com friend loves the chicken-fried you may prefer the drive-in salsa, queso fresco, sour cream just that — it will fill you up.

Join Us for Great Food & Service | Happy Hour 3:00pm-6:00 pm 2515 F Street • 661-322-9910 • www.kcsteakhouse.net 2018 Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 9

The Year in Dining Best fine dining 2018 It’s 10 to win if you want to be wowed

BY PETE TITTL For The Californian hen it comes to fine dining, here’s the best of the best in Bakers- Wfield right now, listed alphabetically: BELVEDERE ROOM AT THE PADRE HOTEL 1702 18th St. I hesitate to speak much about the menu because it may have changed since my last visit, but there are so many good choices here at this elegant, classy din- ing room, including crispy lamb belly with risotto, steaks with the sources of the beef listed on the menu and a beet salad that will convince all the haters of that root vegetable that they’ve been wrong about that food item. Don’t skimp on desserts and make sure to make reservations as it’s a small place and busy on the weekends in particular. BENJI’S FRENCH BASQUE RESTAURANT 4001 Rosedale Highway Too much to recommend at a Basque restaurant that empha- sizes (particularly through the artful use of sauces) the French element of that cuisine. The shrimp with garlic butter sauce, the soufflés, the hamburgers, the rack of lamb, the steaks (get the peppercorn sauce!), the roast duck with orange sauce, the setup that uses Pyrenees sourdough bread. Too much good food.

HNERY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN Uricchio’s Trattoria server Megan Stonelake brings food out to her lunch guests at the restaurant.

solid vegetarian dishes, orange LITTLE ITALY chicken and fried rice. Rock your 8200 Stockdale Highway world and order the fried avocado There are some real gems on wontons as an appetizer. My the lunch menu at this formal personal favorite is the duck fried service Italian restaurant — it rice. Another downtown place seems to be where the owner, that is typically crowded on the Chang, does his experimentation. weekends. I’d make reservations. One reader absolutely raved (jus- tifiably) about a cheese gnocchi KC STEAKHOUSE served with chopped mild Italian 2515 F St. sausage and a butter sage sauce, Last year we raved about how priced at only $12.95 for lunch. this downtown institution was I’ve never had better lobster ravi- MARK NESSIA / THE CALIFORNIAN given new energy due to an en- oli than what these folks routinely ergetic kitchen staff modernizing serve. Pad Thai at Chef’s Choice Noodle the menu, and the trend of great- FELIX ADAMO / THE CALIFORNIAN Bar. ness continued into the new year. MAMA TOSCA’S RISTORANTE Mama Tosca’s famous marinated carrots. If you’re not big on beef, get the ITALIANO CHEF’S CHOICE NOODLE BAR lobster mac and cheese, and the 9000 Ming Ave. tomer feel pampered. If osso buco occhi with three different sauces. 1534 19th St. lamb chops are pretty amazing, This place is almost the dean is your thing, try their version, as No, it’s not cheap, but when I walk So much worth recommending too. If you’re lucky, they’ll have a of Bakersfield fine dining, soon well as the steaks with Gorgon- out I feel as if I got what I paid here, from the drunken noodles musician serenading you in good approaching its 40th year in busi- zola sauce, the amazing to the various pad Thai, prime ol’ Rat Pack style. Life seldom gets ness, and always with a classy, veal choices, and the gn- rib on weekends, the soups, better than that. deferential style that makes a cus- Please see FINE DINING | 10 10 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year I’d get emails with the details of disap- FINE DINING pointing dining experiences. But new in Dining Continued from PAGE 9 owners Brian and Mikela Oberg have righted the ship, and if you’re one of 2018 for, and quality ingredients are the those who swore never again, give it difference. Something as simple as the a try. The menu has been revamped olive oil served with the bread is a cut to bring back a lot of greats at various above. It’s what they do, and the ser- price points so it can be a special night vice staff is ever vigilant to make sure out for a wider range of customers. your needs are met. Outstanding wine list, too. The Italian sauces all seem RED PEPPER like slow-cooked gems. 2641 Oswell St. Count me as one city resident who THE MARK hopes Gilbert Sabedra and Sharon 1623 19th St. Kendall never retire. Selfish, I know, This beautiful downtown gem has but this innovative Mexican restaurant been through a few owners since its remains the jewel of northeast Bakers- debut back in 2012. And occasionally field. Just this year the ever-restless Gilbert went to work on offering his version of the famous Dave’s Tacos HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN downtown, and as usual he elevates anything he touches. They’re called Bacon-wrapped meatloaf comes out of the kitchen for lunch at The Mark. fiesta tacos and they’re on the restau- rant’s secret menu, so you have to as ever. The lasagna may seem like a Growers is still hitting on all cylin- ask for them. Great happy hour, great cliché choice, but the version they of- ders. Our personal favorite is still nightly specials, fusion cuisine or fer here is stunning, as is the chicken the shrimp scampi and the beef bro- conventional Mexican, it all works. As walnut salad, the shrimp scampi, the chette; the fries set the standard for all at many of these restaurants, the gold chicken and sausage a la Nick, the of Bakersfield and prices are east-side is found on the “specials” insert, and filet mignon with a marvelous porcini low compared to some of the other I’ve always found the staff to be very mushroom sauce. If you can avoid restaurants on this list. I wouldn’t aware of what the kitchen is really ordering the sand dabs in the white go without reservations as it always hammering out of the park. wine/butter sauce. Reservations are seems crowded, even on weekday a must. Don’t fight the crowds. Some nights. The dinner menu seems slim URICCHIO’S TRATTORIA people seem to eat here every week- at around 20 choices, but the fried 1400 17th St. end. Discover why if you haven’t been. chicken, lamb chops and filet of sole We wrote a whole column about have all been impressive to us on past this influential downtown gem that WOOL GROWERS RESTAURANT visits. The consistency year over year & COCKTAIL LOUNGE GREG NICHOLS FOR TBC MEDIA has been a big part of downtown is the most impressive feat to me. The Bakersfield’s renaissance in recent de- 620 E. 19th St. food never seems to change, and why Red Pepper’s take on sea bass. cades, and found it to be as impressive All these years later and Wool should it?

“Home of the Blazing Hot Boiling Seafood”

Original coupon only. No Photocopies Accepted 10% off Per Table

The Best Vietnamese Soup in Town 4200 Stine Rd, Ste A, Bakersfield, CA. 93309 661-735-5354 Open Tuesday - Sunday 10am - 9pm Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 11

Dinner

Lunch Special

Breakfast Pererffeectct PlacePlace ForFFora orfamily get together!

Welcome to a perfect place for a family get togetthherer of TThThaiha food. Our restaurant offers authentic Thai cuisine preparreedddwwwitithhfffeatureateaeeaturtuureed. Cozy, family-friendly atmosphere and impeccable service.ce..PPleaPlPleaseas ccomeome to finfindd flavors and enjoy all we have to offer! ,KOO[ 1YPGT QH $NWG 'NGRJCPVCPVV

: (661) 833-8190

Breakfast: 7:00AM - 11:00AM [email protected] Lunch: 11:00AM - 3:00PM www.BlueElephantCA.com Dinner: 4:30PM - 9:00PM 8200 Stockdale Hwy, Suite M-1 Bakersfield, CA 93311 12 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year in Dining Happy hour: 2018 Bring the gang to new deal spots

COURTESY OF THE BLVD Bloody mary options at The BLVD.

BY PETE TITTL getting sticker shock when friendly employees. Check For The Californian the bill arrives), rolls for $7.50 it out. appy hour is still a big to $9.99, house wine only $4, business in Bakersfield, house margaritas $3.50, tall The BLVD and you have the kings domestic beers $5. Many $6 3200 Buck Owens Blvd. of the hill that will never food offerings include salmon H We love this place because be toppled. Though Tahoe collar, garlic edamame and they run their happy hour Joe’s has continued to raise gyoza. Hours when we visited until 7 p.m. (Monday through prices to the point they actu- were 2 to 6:30 p.m. Monday to Friday beginning at 3 p.m.) ally might make a profit, it’s Saturday, and their Facebook and though the $2 discount still a social draw, especially page said they were offering it on all appetizers and drinks with that expansive patio. all day Sunday, but we weren’t doesn’t sound like a great Cafe Med remains the place to there to see what the offerings value it adds up, and it’s easy get the best “house wine” and were then. It’s really made to get a table in the bar area $5 appetizers coming out of a play for the value market. to take advantage of this. a first-rate kitchen. Iguana’s, Things are fluid here as Added entertainment bo- BJ’s, Lucille’s, Romano’s they’re tweaking the offerings HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN nus: If the sports on the big Macaroni Grill, Agave on Oak regularly trying to compete. screen TVs around you aren’t Street and Red Pepper in the Bocados Sushi Bar has a variety of happy hour specials. The Library thrilling you, you can watch northeast all offer great values 1718 Chester Ave. people bowl. that we’ve raved about in the may not know about that spot has really amped up past. might be worth your happy their happy hour game with Notable for Taco Tuesdays. Sonder But there’s competition. hour dollars. so many different offerings More a bar than a restaurant, 9500 Brimhall Road New kids on the block trying including $10 bento boxes but I’ve gotten emails about Bocados Sushi Bar to knock off the aging gun- (that’s a meal, folks), $27 all- their Tuesday events with The food is great, the 1300 Coffee Road fighter, or at least get a chunk you-can-eat sushi on Tuesday $5 all-you-can-eat beef and couches are comfy and any of that lucrative business. In recent months this nights (a real value if you’re chicken tacos and $1 Tecates. Here are some prospects you Mexican-influenced sushi used to ordering sushi and There’s a pool table and Please see HAPPY HOUR | 13 Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 13

HAPPY HOUR Continued from PAGE 12 glass of wine priced at $12 and under is only $5. Draft beers are $4. The food star is the bruschetta board where you can choose any four off the list of appealing prospects for $14.

Wiki Wine Dive & Grill 11350 Ming Ave. COURTESY OF SONDER We’ve always liked the caliber of the house wines Every hour is a happy one at Sonder. here, but they are truly a steal at $3 a glass. The P.F. Chang’s of mixed drinks are the happy hour menu has a 10700 Stockdale Highway same price. lot of variety including plantain bites ($3.49), great OK, the place is small but Firestone Grill sliders ($4.99 for two), fried the happy hour is mighty 3501 California Ave. green beans ($3.99), the and usually uncrowded. sourdough garlic bread loaf They’ll serve you at the ta- OK, the place is loud. ($3.99, and less garlicky ble as if you were eating in That’s the bad news. The than it used to be) and the the restaurant, and happy happy hour here (2 to chopped Mediterranean hour runs from 3 to 6 p.m. 6 p.m. Monday through salad plate ($5.95), though Monday through Friday. Friday) is perfect for beer my companion thought the Food items are $6, includ- drinkers as they have great presence of diced turkey ing the famous chicken let- options for $4, such as and ham was out of place tuce wraps and spicy tuna Luponic Distortion, 605, with all the good veggies roll or $5 for vegetarian or Union Jack, Modelo, Blue (sun-dried tomatoes, pick- shrimp dumplings, excel- Moon and Guinness. Not led red onions, artichoke lent vegetable spring rolls, just a list of “domestic hearts). It’s got an upscale, crab wontons or egg rolls drafts.” If that’s what you’re social vibe that I haven’t made with chicken or pork. seeking, you can get Bud seen in a lot of places — like Craft draft beers are $4, the Light for $2. Food is more all the cool kids are hanging Kendall-Jackson chardon- limited, but the spicy wings out here. nay is $6 and an assortment ($4.99) are exceptional. 14 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year in Dining 2018 Must-order items These dishes are favorites for a reason

BY PETE TITTL For The Californian hen I’m just roaming around and eating on my own dime, Wthese are the kinds of specialties I like to seek: Leo’s Burgers: Bacon breakfast sandwich, bacon omelet, Philly cheesesteak and rib eye steak sandwich. We’re indebted to reader George Gillburg for tipping MARK NESSIA / THE CALIFORNIAN us off to these wonderful offerings. La Costa’s palmas con Lino’s: Everyone raves camarones with sea bass. about the pork belly tacos — the restaurant was a pioneer in our area for those — but white cheddar cheese, there are so many other great garlic, spinach and red choices including the pork quinoa. The breakfast food barbacoa, a slow-cooked pork is good enough, but these creation sent over the top by potatoes are worth a visit in a house-made bacon chipotle themselves. barbecue sauce. La Costa Mariscos: Any of the shrimp choices, the bean dip with a thin layer of chile verde on top, the grilled fish nachos (only $6 at happy hour). Wood-Dale Market: Any of the burgers, seriously juicy and with great veggies and buns. If it’s your first visit, get the Wood-Dale classic ALEX HORVATH / THE CALIFORNIAN burger: one-third pound patty If it’s fried, J’s Place is probably serving it — and it’s worth ordering. One of the restaurant’s of quality juicy beef cooked signature dishes is its fried catfish, seen here served with mixed greens, mac and cheese and medium with a butter-toasted cornbread. Pyrenees bun. Crazy BBQ: This small Ko- rean place in the northeast has one dish that is amazing: items are amazing, such MARK NESSIA / THE CALIFORNIAN the spicy chicken stone with as the crispy chicken skin The homeboy burger at Muertos Kitchen & melted mozzarella cheese, appetizer called Nashville Lounge. sometimes called buldak, or cracklins’, something like a “fire chicken.” Large enough natural chicken nugget with for two to share. skin, served with an Alabama Muertos Kitchen & Tahoe Joe’s: The roasted white barbecue sauce, or the Lounge: Too many items chicken, so smoky yet still amazing Alabama chicken, to list, really, from the out- juicy, followed by that amaz- marinated in apple cider and standing chile verde to all the ing thick baked cheesecake. rib spices, then smoked and burgers, the carne asada fries And the bone-in pork chop glazed with that white barbe- or salad (depending on how they started serving in No- cue sauce. healthy you want to be), the vember is pretty amazing, too, Temblor Brewing Co.: The popcorn pork, the lamb tacos, but who knows how long that burgers made with the Santa the lamb salad. Going here is will be available. Seems like a Carota beef, the bison burger painful after a few times; you seasonal special. or the burger made from wish you could get two meals. J’s Place: The great fried ground brisket and chuck, the Narducci’s Burgers & Ital- shrimp basket, any of the fried cheese curds appetizer, ian Ices: They get their meats fried chicken, the fried catfish. the citrus salmon salad, the from Martin’s Meats (you can The fried snapper. Even if you Thai chicken salad or the Ba- find them at the Haggin Oaks don’t like fried foods. kersfield cheesesteak made farmers market on Sundays), Milt’s Coffee Shop: So with grilled mushrooms, HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN and the real winner on their many great things on the tem- prime rib, provolone and a Temblor Brewing Co.’s pepper jack burger. list of great sandwiches is the porary “specials” menu such garlic aioli. ‘Ducci burger, made with as the Mediterranean omelet Eureka!: Sure the burgers two four-ounce patties that (always get the hash browns and sandwiches are great, but beets, sunflower seeds, car- Get it with steak or salmon are half ground chuck, half — they’re crispy and amazing) if you’re in the mood for a big rots, red onions, feta cheese, and you’ve got an outstanding bacon, with Swiss cheese, as well as the monthly special salad with amazingly fresh a “bean trio,” butter lettuce meal. avocado and roasted jalapeno cakes. They make their own produce, head here for the and an oregano mustard New Vintage Grill: Those lime aioli. pastrami, and it is always protein chopped salad made vinaigrette that allows you to breakfast potatoes called Lucille’s Smokehouse with kale, quinoa, cucumbers, taste the vegetables but still “spuds” with the combina- BBQ: Some of their new lunch red bell peppers, roasted brings something to the dish. tion of hash brown shreds, Please see MUST-ORDER | 15 Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 15

Discover the Foods of Mexico at the Red Pepper

Since its inception in 1979, Chef Gilbert Sabedra has always been on the cutting edge. He has taken traditional Mexican foods, inspired by the infusions of International flavors and expanded the cui- sine to ensure a feast for all your senses.

Cantina 2018 HENRY A. BARRIOS / THE CALIFORNIAN Hours: Daljit Brar cuts into the beef shawarma at his Sultans Mediterranean Grill. Open Daily

www.BakersfieldRedPepper.com MUST-ORDER Sunday Champagne Continued from PAGE 14 Brunch worth ordering in a sandwich or an omelet, 10 am - 2 pm as well as the $6 burger special on Thurs- days or the fried chicken any day. Dining Room Hours: Mossman’s Westchester Restaurant: Monday - Saturday 11:00am to 9:00pm Still impressive fish and chips and chicken Sunday Brunch 10am - Lunch & Dinner strips and chips. Just fun to watch the op- Closed 8:30pm eration in full force on a weekend in the bowling alley. Ruben’s Mexican & Seafood: The warm bean dip, the chile verde and any of the shrimp dishes, spicy or not. And the pork spare ribs chile verde. 24th Street Cafe: The pumpkin pan- GREG NICHOLS FOR TBC MEDIA cakes, the huevos rancheros, the pan-fried Chile verde pizza from Tony’s Pizza. trout with eggs (does anyone else even of- fer this?) and the amazing list of specials. Sultans Mediterranean Grill: This lo- gone wrong, but it captures the concept cally owned restaurant specializes in Med- perfectly. iterranean food customized Chipotle style. Grandma’s Tamales: Any of the tama- We love both the souvlaki skewers and the les. Any time of year. juicy beef shawarma as well as the garlic Lam’s Chinese Restaurant: Hot and potatoes. spicy shrimp, orange chicken and curry Alfonso’s Taco Shop: Any of the burri- chicken. tos, breakfast or otherwise, on those torti- Tony’s Pizza: Chile verde pizza. llas that taste freshly made, and crunchy ta- Buck Owens’ Crystal Palace: The cos made in fresh-fried corn tortilla shells. chicken-fried steak was supposedly Buck’s Very few tables, but the drive-through lane last dinner before his last performance, seems to pull in a lot of folks. though the huge portion has me leaning The Gourmet Shoppe at Cafe Med: toward the rib-eye steak because they have Monday: Any Pasta for $10 The best deal in town has got to be the tapped a great source of beef. family style dinners to go at $41.95, includ- Cope’s Knotty Pine Cafe: A family-run Tuesday: Any Burger and Any Beer $10 ing soup or salad, steamed vegetables and gem of a place that some swear has the rice or potatoes for the non-pasta items. best biscuits and gravy in town. The break- Weds: Prime Rib with Basque Set Up for $22 We love the roasted chicken (Monday), fast burritos are the bomb, too. The pas- (Only after 5pm) chicken stroganoff (Tuesday), house made trami sandwich or chicken-fried steak are meatloaf (Wednesday) and, believe it or longtime favorites. Basque Set Up Only for $15 not, the spaghetti and meatballs (available Ben Paca Mexican Grill: Chilaquiles, any day). The website says it feeds four to burritos or bowls. Thurs: Pickled Tongue Sandwich or Pickled five, but we’ve stretched it past that many Cafe Crepes: Sweet or savory crepes, times. though the Panini sandwiches aren’t bad Tongue Burger $9 LoLo’s Mix: The Amazon smoothie — either. It’s just hard to get past those crepes. blueberries, bananas, peanut butter pow- Riverwalk Cafe: The 50-50 burger. Half Friday: Beer Battered Fish and Chips for $10 der and lots of other goodness. Great way bacon, half beef. Not original, but so well Sat. Morning Huevos Rancheros & Eggs Benedict for $9 to start the day. executed here. Arizona Cafe: Chile verde. Old-school Hungry Hunter: Any steak with the Brunch: Micheladas & Bellinis for $3 Bakersfield. whiskey peppercorn sauce, also the pe- Athena’s Greek Cafe & Bakery: The can-encrusted chicken. Perfect combina- carrot cake will shake up your life. It’s that tion. And the happy hour offerings are an good. Just writing that sentence made me exceptional value and high quality. A friend 2104 O Street, Bakersfield, CA. 93301 | 661-404-4038 want to get in the car to pick up a piece. recommended the au gratin potatoes and Slice of Italy: The pastrami sandwich lump crab stuffed mushrooms. We will Open 11am - 3pm Monday - Saturday pizza. Sounds like a bad food experiment check it out. https://narduccis-burger-italian-ice.business.site 16 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

My favorite: Flavors of Mexico abundant at Los Aguacates

BY DAVID A. TORRES For The Californian very once in a while, it’s good to treat one- self to comfort food. E While there are liter- ally hundreds of Mexican restaurants in our city, one that I have found to be authentic with flavors that transport me back to my childhood is Los Aguacates. I first discovered this restaurant several years ago while attending a meeting. As I sat with my colleagues, I was im- pressed with the waitress mixing fresh scoops of avocado from its husk into a molcajete along with other spices. She then mashed the ingredients to- gether into one of the best guacamoles I have ever eaten. It was even more delicious accompanied with a bowl of warm corn tortilla chips The first dish I ate there was la cochina, the Mexi- can version of osso bucco. However, instead of lamb shank, Aguacates uses pork that is roasted in a rich array of sauces until the meat begins to separate from the bone. Along with ALEX HORVATH / THE CALIFORNIAN this was the traditional rice Local defense attorney David Torres’ favorite restaurant and beans. However, at is Los Aguacates on South H Street. His favorite meal is Los Aguacates, the rice is the la cochinita, a pork shank with adobo sauce served neither too dry nor soggy; with guacamole, pico de gallo, beans and rice. it is perfect. Likewise, the frijoles are refried and seasoned just enough that enhancer. I recommend They also offer daily spe- each bite reminds me of ordering extra sauce on the cials that are definitely my mother’s frijoles from side to pour over the rice worth trying. Also, the days gone by. and beans. owner and head chef Other dishes that are If you are thirsty and happens to come from worthy of trying are their want to relax with a cold my father’s home state of fish tacos, perhaps the drink, I recommend any Zacatecas, Mexico. best tasting tacos north of their iced or blended If you enjoy authentic of Cabo San Lucas. En- margaritas. I prefer mango, Mexican food, visit Los chiladas are served with a which is blended and Aguacates. The taste and variety of meats, however, served in a generous por- ambiance will take you to www.mysliceofitaly.com I prefer ground beef. What tion with a rim of tajín or a journey south of the separates these enchiladas salt. border. Disfrute! from others is the sauce. Los Aguacates staff are –––––––––––––––––––––––– It’s not too thin, nor thick, warm and friendly and David A. Torres is a defense but it is definitely a flavor provide excellent service. attorney in Bakersfield. Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 17

The Year in Dining My favorite 2018 Steak your claim at The Mark

BY H.A. SALA For The Californian or those of us who enjoy a flavorful, juicy and tender steak, one of Ba- kersfield’s best-kept secrets is the Fbone-in ribeye at The Mark. I have been to some of the best steak- houses on the West and East coasts and without a doubt this steak is among the best. The bone-in ribeye at The Mark is grilled to perfection. The flavor is spectacular due to the marbling and the quality of the grade selected by the restaurant. The chef serves the steak on a bed of mashed potatoes cushioned by baby asparagus tips and topped with a sprig of rosemary, which adds a pleasant aroma to an already amazing culinary experience. This is one of the best steaks in town. Mastro’s has met its match! ALEX HORVATH / THE CALIFORNIAN ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– The Mark Restaurant in downtown Bakersfield. H.A. Sala is a defense attorney in ALEX HORVATH / THE CALIFORNIAN Bakersfield. The Mark Restaurant in downtown Bakersfield.

2018 2018

Best Mexican Restaurant Best Sea Food 18 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year in Dining 2018 For this man, every morning starts at Mossman’s Westchester

BY HERB BENHAM every morning and I tell them [email protected] I’m a routine guy. I love the mornings.” or Ken Vetter, breakfast at Recently having turned 90, Mossman’s Westchester Vetter has eased his schedule, Bowl is his longest stand- heading in at 6:30 a.m. most Fing tradition. days, but not his routine. “I’ve been eating at the “When the kids were young, Bowl since 1951,” said Vetter, it got me up early. Now, I’ll eat an insurance agent and for- and play golf at 8. On Sundays, mer 40-year member of the I go to the 6:45 Mass and then Police Commission. to the Bowl at 8. ALEX HORVATH / THE CALIFORNIAN He started going there back “I eat at the counter (the when Clarence Mossman had next to the last seat away from Insurance broker Ken Vetter, 90, has been dining at Mossman’s Westchester, inside the restaurant, along with the door), unless a friend Westchester Bowling Alley, since 1951. For a few years, the longtime customer had the the Salad Bowls. Clarence’s or my son, Jeff, joins me for restaurant bill him every month so he could pay for veterans to eat for free. grandson, Rick, now keeps breakfast. I read the paper, the eatery inside Westchester visit with friends and spend Bowling Alley running along an hour there. I order the costs because I run a tab and “My favorite waitresses over Herb Benham, Californian with the one in Southwest full breakfast: hash browns, they bill me at the office. If I the years have been Lissa, Lanes Coffee Shop and the scrambled eggs, toast well eat lunch there, I’ll have the Gina, Becky and Kari and family and lifestyle columnist, catering business. done, all on the same plate, Bowlers’ special, which is a then Gerry and Else, when has been part of the TBC Me- “Friends think I’m crazy and three cups of coffee. hamburger, french fries and the restaurant was on Golden and ask me why I go there at 6 “I’m not sure how much it salad. State Avenue.” dia family for 30 years. I can’t possibly name every option, but I’ll wing it

BY ROBERT PRICE just the right amount of Bakersfield still has Goose you’d better, soon. [email protected] heat. And dry to the touch, Loonies, at 18th and Q I generally have an which means you didn’t streets, which offers a aversion to chains, but was prepared to tell read- end up with a greasy-brown wings option for most ev- some of them have pretty ers which eateries, in my Fu Manchu, stained fingers ery taste: eight sauces, in- good Buffalo wings. BJ’s estimation, had the best and a repulsed dinner date. cluding fiesta and roasted Restaurant & Brewhouse IBuffalo wings in these But that recipe has been Greeks, and three serving ranks high on my list parts, but then I made the dumped in favor of a greas- sizes that’ll set you back (bone-in wings, $12.75; mistake of conducting an ier off-menu version that $6.99 (for six), $11.99 (for boneless $12.25), as does internet search for worthy does not measure up. 12) or $19.99 (for 24). The Outback Steakhouse, which candidates I might have The other is Mexicali ones I’ve tried are great. It markets itself with an Aus- missed. West, whose wings have only makes sense that Jim tralian theme but is not Turns out I missed most of some of the same desirable Katsantonis should have above sampling the cuisine them. I knew Buffalo wings (to my tastes) characteris- good Buffalo wings: He’s of other hemispheres. The were on the verge of taking tics. I know: Buffalo wings Canadian and Buffalo, N.Y., Bakersfield restaurant’s over the world but I had no don’t qualify as Mexican where buffalo wings were Kookaburra wings ($10.99) idea it was fait accompli. cuisine by any stretch, but invented in 1964, is practi- are pretty good. In addition to Buffalo Wild that just speaks to their con- cally in Canada. Wingstop is top-notch Wings and Wingstop, the quest of the human palate. Not every locally owned if you’re looking for a fast- two national chains focus- Alas, Mexicali West is closing Mexican restaurant com- food/take-out experience, ing on chicken wings that Dec. 31, having been sold petently follows the lead but Buffalo Wild Wings, have taken up residence in to developers who have not of Mexicali West in the though it wins in terms of ROBERT PRICE / THE CALIFORNIAN Bakersfield in recent years, disclosed their plans for the Buffalo wings department. sheer flavor variety and Outback Steakhouse markets itself with an Australian dozens of other restaurants, property, a choice spot lo- I recently ventured into number of big-screen TVs, theme, but it’s not above sampling different continents. both chain and local, have cated near the city’s busiest one such place in north- gives me a headache. Their The Bakersfield restaurant’s Kookaburra wings ($10.99) added the item to their ap- intersection. And, double west Bakersfield and was managers insist on blasting are among the best we’ve tasted. petizer menus. alas, the lovable original served wings that seem to the volume on virtually I’m sad to say two of my Mexicali, at 18th and R have been deep-fried into every TV in the place, it favorites are gone or soon streets downtown, does not a brown-gray leather and seems, so you can’t actually Also, their commercials are ––––––––––––––––––––––– will be. The Padre Hotel, offer wings. Yet. Do you hear topped unimaginably with understand what’s being irritating. Robert Price, a columnist at in downtown Bakersfield, me, Sonny Cruz? (He’s the something hot and red said on any of them, much That’s my list. Pathetic, The Californian, has been had some of the best: crispy manager; talk to him.) straight out of a bottle. You less what your compan- isn’t it? I’ll keep sampling. part of the TBC Media outside, moist inside, with Fortunately, downtown know who you are — or ions might be trying to say. Suggestions welcome. family for 30 years. Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 19 Options abound at India Bistro’s flavorful lunch buffet

2018

CALIFORNIAN FILE PHOTO India Bistro offers a flavorful lunch buffet. This plate includes just a fraction of the amazing selections.

BY CHRISTINE L. PETERSON desserts and fresh fruit. While all [email protected] these categories are available at all the lunch buffets, the choices multiply on hen I happen upon a restaurant Sundays. I like, I’m hooked: You might find Among my favorites are the rice, vege- me at the same place every week table pakora and samosas, shani paneer Wfor a year. — so creamy, so comfort food — chicken My current favorite is India Bistro on makhani and a lightly breaded white fish. Ming Avenue. I’m enthralled with the fla- There are some amazing vegetable dishes vorful food, warm service and music so with potatoes, peas and green beans that soothing I wish I knew the words. you shouldn’t miss. I go there so often that the staff greets The location, 3939 Ming Ave., used to be me asking if I’d like Coke — in addition to a Bob’s Big Boy, but you wouldn’t know it the water served in chilled glass bottles at inside with a peacock mural in the entry- every table — and garlic naan. The naan way and gold accents throughout. comes piping hot, fresh from the kitchen, One of the ever-present staff members with the amazing lunch buffet, and you — perhaps he is an owner — always asks, have a choice of garlic or plain. “Is everything OK? It’s good?” The gracious, soft-spoken owners and No, actually, it’s excellent. 1927 20th Street • Bakersfield, CA. 93301 staff already know what I’d like, and that –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– most definitely is the lunch buffet. Christine L. Peterson, director of newsroom 661-325-DELI • 661-325-MEAT It’s a treat any day of the week, with a operations, has been part of the TBC Media www.ptbbq.com bevy of vegetarian and meat choices, family for nearly 22 years. 20 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year in Dining Caveman Cavey’s 2018 Pizza justifies a trip to the mountains BY JOHN COX were treated to a memorable [email protected] view of a mountain commu- nity blanketed in white — not razier Park looked like a something we were used to nice enough place, but we seeing in Southern California. probably wouldn’t have But at that point I was still Fmoved there if not for on the fence about buying Caveman Cavey’s Pizza. a home located so far from This was during the housing pretty much everything. bubble, when home prices Then the pizza arrived. seemed unreasonably steep After all these years, I still where my immediate family can’t quite put my finger on was living in the San Fernando what makes Cavey’s so spe- Valley. cial. Maybe it’s the tang of the JOHN COX / THE CALIFORNIAN Someone told my wife Fra- sauce or the texture of the Caveman Cavey’s Pizza is located in the heart of Frazier Park, less than an hour south of zier Park was a bargain, so we sausage. But the combination, Bakersfield at an elevation of about 4,500 feet. scheduled a visit one snowy which is the menu option we Saturday in early 2005. ordered and I continue to ask hesitate to bring up, but I will Call it a lasting reminder of cally insist we order Caveman’s After a few sled rides down for every time, borders on anyway: Think twice about some of the best pizza you’ll (many people in town call it nearby Mount Pinos and a perfection. eating your meal inside. eat in California. that). Friends consider the tour of the house my wife had Not being a food writer, I’ll Locals tend to eat on the Short story long, we decided pizza worth a trip to the moun- her eye on, we were ready have to leave my description outside patio, which has be- to make an offer on the house, tains, even when there’s no for lunch. One of us spotted of the food right there. People come one of Frazier Park’s which I still consider a bargain snow and no prospects of sled- a quaint little pizza place in tell me the lasagna’s excellent, prime gathering places. I even though we bought at the ding. Unlike the weather, the a Tudor-style building in the and I’ve enjoyed the meatball suspect it’s because the ven- height of the market. For my pizza there’s dependably good. center of town. We got a table sandwich there. But most tilation inside the building is part, I was ready to sign the and ordered. people I know get the combo plainly inadequate. Spend five mortgage documents halfway John Cox, The Californian’s Now, it’s true we were a little or the pepperoni and stick minutes inside Caveman’s and through lunch. We live there to business editor, has been with dazzled by the atmosphere. with it. (That said, Cavey’s BLT you’ll smell like pizza until this day. the TBC Media family for more It was warm and dry inside, pizza intrigues.) your next shower. Visitors to our home typi- than 10 years. and through the window we There’s one minor detail I

It’s a Prime Time to enjoy some barbecue downtown

BY STEFANI DIAS lemon berry acai and black cherry [email protected] with tarragon. My usual order is the chees- hen it comes to sand- esteak, which piles on sauteed wiches, I’m a big pro- onions and green peppers as well ponent of bringing the as cheese. I pair that with either a Wmeal together with some cream soda or black cherry Stub- sides. City Sandwich has the born Soda and a bag of cracked best potato salad in town (come pepper and sea salt Dirty Chips. at me, bro) and pair that with a That flavor is key to the equation shooter of chili and garlic cheese because of the final side: a half- toast and you’re set. Likewise pint of chili. That heady mix of with Sequoia Sandwich: a grilled tomatoes, spices, sausage and cheese is great with a side of its other bit of barbecued meats macaroni salad, decked out with with the occasional peppers is a crunchy bits of celery and onion. flavor sensation. And it serves as a If we’re talking a barbecue op- gussied up au jus for dipping the tion, then I’m headed to Prime sandwich as well as the chips. Time BBQ, Meats & Deli on 20th No doubt this is a big lunch, Street. Thursday is the best when but I usually eat half the sand- the Cali cheesesteak is on special wich and save the rest for dinner. but the other options, including Sometimes a different side gets tri-tip, pulled pork or deep pit thrown in to further help stretch sandwiches, are also intriguing. to two meals. The fried pickles are For $10, you get the special a treat if I’m feeling my sodium FELIX ADAMO / THE CALIFORNIAN along with a bag of chips and a levels are low (ha!), and the mac Prime Time BBQ, Meats & Deli is a busy place at lunchtime! fountain drink. The beverage is and cheese with hot links is great a definite treat since Prime Time as a side or on its own. lunch. There’s Bakers Outpost meat counter offers Harris Ranch –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– has Stubborn Soda on tap. The Another reason to stop into and Pyrenees bread on racks and and Santa Carota beef along with Stefani Dias, The Californian’s line from PepsiCo features flavors Prime Time is being able to pick Gino’s Gelato and Rosa Brothers seasoned meats and house-made features editor, has been with the like agave vanilla cream soda, up a few groceries along with ice cream in the cold case. The sausages ready for the fire. TBC Media family for 18 years. Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 21

TREVOR HORN / THE CALIFORNIAN Trevor Horn’s go-to order at La Costa Mariscos is the las palmas con camaron. To avoid gluten, he substitutes salad and mixed vegetables for the usual beans or rice to accompany the white fish and shrimp. We feel right at home at La Costa Mariscos

BY TREVOR HORN [email protected]

am a creature of habit. Case in point, my wife and I continue to frequent our favorite restaurant, La ICosta Mariscos at the Ice House, despite the fact it opened a new location relatively closer to our house in the northwest. There is something to be said about the ambiance at the Ice House location for this gem just north of downtown Bakersfield. The high ceilings, the fact that the build- ing once actually housed a citywide refrig- erator for those sweltering in the summer heat just wanting some ice to cool down their tea or water. But there is so much more to La Costa. First, the margaritas are our favorite in town. There is no skimping on the house tequila for these drinks. For me, I go with the traditional while my wife is a fan of the strawberry version, and, of course, on the rocks, not blended for us. Then there is the food. The chips and salsa TREVOR HORN / THE CALIFORNIAN brought early and often will get you started Sports reporter Trevor Horn says, “If I’m right before the menu will take you over with at La Costa Mariscos at the Ice House, a variety of traditional Mexican dishes. know that I will always have one of these The seafood option at La Costa are plen- classic margaritas with me at all times.” tiful, hence the name. You will walk away satisfied, as we do every time after a meal and a few drinks, There is something special about going but there is a finishing touch that makes La to La Costa. It’s like walking into their home Costa our go-to. It’s the staff. as a guest of honor. We frequent the bar, not just for the –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– www.WikisWineDive.com drinks and access to sporting events on TV, Trevor Horn, Californian sports reporter, has but because the staff in the bar, led by Will, been part of the TBC Family for four and a Miguel and Jose, are a treat to be around half years. and make you feel right at home. 22 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018

The Year in Dining hesitation. I got the chorizo with all the fixins and they whipped it up. The damage 2018 was a more-than-reasonable $6 and All wrapped up in change. Beyond fair, in my opinion. It was well sized, perfectly packaged with the ideal heat density. Inside, it was layered and balanced — the meat, potatoes, cheese, eggs and latest food find at salsa. Not too much of one item, just the right amount of each. Perfect craftsmanship. Upon splitting the burrito, heat rose from the middle. The first bite was glorious. And a key tip: Include a side Estrella Bakery of salsa, which provides the necessary kick and a cooling effect to the pip- ing-hot ‘Rito. BY TEDDY FEINBERG lectable pretzel buns. Conversely, it Yes, I’ve been back multiple times. [email protected] was not for breakfast burritos. I’ve eaten a variety of breakfast bur- In turn, when I came to Bakersfield ritos there, and there are still options hrough my travels — and the just over a year ago, I knew they would on the menu. I also love the ambience, itinerary is fairly extensive — I be front and center on my palate once those who work there, the customers have become a connoisseur of again. You know, it was something to STEFANI DIAS / THE CALIFORNIAN who converge, the local feel. Tbreakfast burritos. I know what look forward to! It had been too long. The breakfast burrito at Donut Nation I’ll be the first to admit, I have a I’m talking about in this arena. Don’t To discover my spot, I simply goo- and Estrella Bakery is a worthy doughnut issue. That means, when mess with me. gled “best breakfast burritos in Ba- contender for starting your day. they’re in my face I devour, so I’m best Specifically, the grab-and-go variety. kersfield.” And while myriad options just not ordering them. But I can tell Portable. The kind I can hit behind the came up, one immediately caught my you, they are fresh and they are for- wheel or throw down while writing a attention: Donut Nation and Estrella room, it had plenty of goodies and a midable at Estrella. Quality across the Sunday column. No, I’m not looking Bakery. 2400 Wible Road. Super-duper no-frills menu — chalkboard style, board from what I can tell. to sit down at a restaurant and order a local. I was down. right above the counter. It was just I’m sure there are other great spots breakfast burrito that I gotta be pretty Luckily, my barber resides right what I was looking for in that present in town — as a matter of fact, I know with, then let it sink in for 45 minutes. around the corner of this fine estab- moment. there are. I’m just telling you one of That’s for some people, but not me. lishment. One day after getting my There was a lot to take in — a vast my favorite discoveries over the past At my last career stop — York, Penn. wig split by the one and only Clifford assortment of doughnuts, pies, cook- year. — I just wasn’t seeking them out. Cole (yes, that Clifford Cole. Of Jus- ies, salsas. Really, a sight to behold. May the adventures continue. Know your surroundings, and play to ntyme Barbershop — shameless plug, At the same time, I came for one –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– the area’s strengths. In south-central I know) I sauntered down to Estrella. reason — the BB, the ‘Rito, the Break Teddy Feinberg, The Californian’s Pennsylvania, it was about whoopie And I was far from disappointed. Burr, you name it, I came for it and sports editor, has been part of the TBC pies the size of flying saucers and de- A place no bigger than my living it was going down with little to no Media family for just over a year. Better Bowls taco salad can’t be beat BY KELLY ARDIS and enjoyed working my way like it well enough, but it [email protected] through their menu to find never ignites the paranoia my favorite. That alternated that nags “Is this really meat? s a vegetarian, you between their American bowl It looks like it’s really meat!” learn quickly to adapt and Southwest bowl, until which often turns me off when eating out. Sub a clear winner emerged this other fake meats. Athis, hold that and, summer: the taco salad. The chips and salsa with when in doubt, go for a The new item includes the bowl are also great, a grilled cheese or salad. house-made chips on a bed healthier take on one of my To go to a place where I of greens, with salsa, black favorite snacks. I skip the can eat anything — anything beans, black olives, red on- red onions simply because I —is a special treat I never ions (I swap those out for don’t like onions much, but dared dream of having in corn instead) and, for an they must be good for onion Bakersfield until a few years added charge, soyrizo. lovers, like my editor, Stefani ago. Now, there is a place While I have no doubt the Dias, who goes for double where I can close my eyes bowl would be great as it onion with red and green. and point to anything on the comes, that added soyrizo is So far, the taco salad has menu and know I can eat it. what makes the bowl a only been available on Tues- Actually, there are a few favorite for me. I’m not days, which means the staff places like that in Bakersfield usually a big fan of faux meat often knows exactly what now, which still kind of blows — I’ve always preferred a I’m there for when I walk in my mind. I won’t write an more straightforward veggie on that day — they regularly ode to every single vegan patty over something like remember the specific way I restaurant or every item the Impossible burger that order it, too, without me say- that I love at the Hens Roost tries to imitate the taste and ing a word. I’m hoping the (there are so many: tacos, consistency of dead animal, taco salad becomes a regular Thai fries, corn dogs!). which, uh, is not anything I daily item, so I can enjoy it Instead, I’ll limit it to my missed. any Monday through Friday. favorite this year, a new- Still, the soyrizo at Better –––––––––––––––––––––––––– comer to the local vegan Bowls has checked some box Kelly Ardis, a Californian scene. I didn’t know I was missing. entertainment reporter, has COURTESY OF BETTER BOWLS I eagerly awaited the open- It’s savory like meat, spiced been part of the TBC Media The taco salad at Better Bowls is a treat for diners of every stripe. ing of Better Bowls last year like meat and seems to look family for nearly five years. Saturday, December 15, 2018 The Bakersfield Californian 23

9500 BRIMHALL ROAD • 661-247-0000 • @SONDERBAKERSFIELD 24 The Bakersfield Californian Saturday, December 15, 2018