Libretto Percorsi Inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 1

libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 1

• The Medieval Period • The Sixteenth and Seventeenth Century • The Eighteenth Century • The Nineteenth Century • The Twentieth Century • Monuments Alessandria Walks thrOuGh HistOry Città di Alessandria al turismo e promozione della città Assessorato Assessorato alla cultura libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 2

How to get to Alessandria Santhià Santhià

Gravellona Toce

Casale Milano Monferrato A26 A2

Valenza Piacenza Torino A21

Tortona ALESSANDRIA

Acqui Novi Terme Ligure A7

Ovada A26

Genova

Voltri

Alessandria WALKS thrOuGh HistOry Città di Alessandria Assessorato al turismo e promozione della città Assessorato alla cultura Many of the more important places mentioned in these walks have a detailed sign in front of them giving further information (in Italian) This is to enable the visitor and residents to get the most out of their visits. libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 3

This booklet, drawn up by the Council’s Tourism and Heritage department contains descriptions of the town’s most important monuments and sites. There are six chapters which span a period of roughly 1,000 years from the tenth century to the present day. The Council who decided in 1997 to enhance its cultural and historical heritage were given invaluable help from the local Rotary Club and the “Città Nuova” association. The aim of this booklet is to make both residents and tourists aware of how Alessandria has changed through the ages.

index

The Medieval Period walk 1 page 2

The Sixteenth and Seventeenth Century walk 2 page 6

The Eighteenth Century walk 3 page 8

The Nineteenth Century walk 4 page 16

The Twentieth Century walk 5 page 22

Monuments walk 6 page 28

Ufficio cultura del Comune di Alessandria Telefono 0131 40035 - 0131 43140 [email protected] IAT info Telefono 0131 234794 [email protected] lib The Medieval Period re

s palto Borgoglio palto via Giordano Bruno o percors

lungotanaro S. Martino CITTADELLA spalto Borgoglio

i Stazione F.S. Stazione F i

ng piazzale Curiel piazzale The Mediev l corso i The MedievalPe

ese

corso Cavallotti via Lumelli via

u Crimea 21 m - S.Rocco

p.zza via via e - 2 Carducci 2008

p.zza Turati Casale

via S.F. d’Assisi p.zza C.so Virginia Marini via Bergamo via T

17 via Alessandro III Alessandro via Gobettip.zza lungotanaro Solferino

: via Vochieri via Garibaldi via Rattazzi 06

piazza n

corso S.Stefano

Marconi a P piazza p.zza Roma ag r

via S. Lorenzo i

na via S. G. d. Vittoria Milano via o S.Lucia

Lega via Verona via p.tta p.tta 4

Catania

7 via Faa di Bruno di Faa via largo via S.M.Castello via

via XXIV Maggio XXIV via via via via Milazzo 4 3 1

via Cavour Schiavina

Libertà

. zza della zza

6 s palto Rovereto palto

via Parma via

corso Pontida via

via Dante via

via Ghilini via via Guasco via Savonarola via via Rossini Cento Cannoni

via Mazzini via Marsala via

via Plana via via Venezia via

p.zza Divina

viale MiliteProvvidenza I via

r Re a

v gnot libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 5

eriod walk 1 vi al Period a Rettoria

1 The Church of St Mary of the Castle

viale Michel 2 The House of “Gli Umiliati”

3 The former church of St Francis

nza 4 Palatium Vetus 5 The Church of St Mary Carmine

e Ignoto 6 The Inviziati Palace Milit 7 The Church of St James of the victory

8 The Stortiglioni Tower (Marengo)

via Galimberti via Scassi 9 Casalbagliano Castle (Casalbagliano) spalto Marengo

The Medieval walk begins in the Rovereto district, in the heart of town,with the Church of St Mary of the Castle,which dates to the 9th century. The town core,which sprang up in 1168, came about through a joining up of zia the already existing military garrison with the via Burgonzio adjoining dwellimgs of Gamondio, Marengo and Borgoglio, the latter lying on the other side of the River Tanaro. At that time,the town housed many important religious orders, which duly led via Claro to the building of St Francis’ church, the Carmine church and St Peter’s cathedral. Thanks to the river Tanaro many small trades sprang up such as the fulling and dying of wool. Montello

via These were principally carried out by the monks

.so Lamarmora c via Marengo and residents of the “Casa degli Umiliati” They via Oberdan set up no less than 5 mills, of which remains the so called “Umiliati”s’ dye works. This town could not help but be economically affected but the nearby Lombardy region as it lay midway between this rich Duchy and the major Meditteranean seaport of Genoa.

palto Gamondio s 3 lib The Medieval Period re The ChurchofStMary’s CarmineChurch The ChurchofStMarytheCastle The formerchurchofStFrancis tt 4 o percors Palatium Vetus i

i ng l ese 21 - 04 4 5 2 3 1 th century)Tryptych showingSaintTheresaandCrucifix (18thcentury). and StLuciastandingbetweenSaint BarbaraandSaintAgatha(14 Inside: the middleofnineteenth centuryinlategothicstyle. enlarged in1466whenacloisterwas added.Itwasrestoredtowards order inthethirteenthandfourteenth centuries.Itwassubsequently subsequently itbecameaprivatedwelling. undergone sweepingalterations,firstlyformilitaryreasonsand fresco featuringSaintPaul.Inthecourseoftimethisbuildingas Inside: stretch asfarViaMigliaraanddeiMartiri. medieval times,ithousedthepodestà(therulingclass).Itusedto to thefirsthalfoffourteenthcentury. of the Of particularnotearethepolychromevaultsandremainingsigns the additionofpartitionwallswhenitwasturnedintoamilitaryhospital. original churchlayoutwasalteredintheseventeenthcenturywith carried out. were suchactivitiesasthedyingandfullingofwoolcloth “il TinaiodegliUmiliati” Inside: end ofthe11thcenturyandwasonemostimportantsitesintown. belonging tothisreligiousorder.Thisordercameintobeingtowardsthe dating backtoCharlemagne’stime. century) asecondoftriabsidaldesign period Achurchwithcourtroom(8-9th back totheverybeginningofMedieval from twoearlierbuildingsafirstdating Of architecturalnote: garrison fromwhichthetownsprung. 1107 inacharterandwaspartoftheRovereto - 2008 1200 circa 12th century piazza viaMigliara, Libertà, 28 Palatium Vetus 13/14th century via XXIVMaggio, 5 The formerchurchofStFrancis 12th century via Lumelli, 13-17 House ofthehumble 9th century piazza S.Maria diCastello The ChurchofStMarytheCastle via deiGuasco The ChurchofStMary’sCarmine “Madonna withchildandtwoangels” MadonnadelRosario(16thcentury) PolyptychofCrucifixion importantremainsofmiddleageworkshops,amongstwhich afourteenthcenturyMgistratesCourtroom,arcadesand

17 Containing threeaisles,thischurchwas builtbytheCarmelite Built around1170itwasthecentreoflocalgovernmentin Site oftheFranciscanorder,itwascompletedin1314Its This isthelastremainingsiteofwhatwereoriginallyfive Thius churchfiguredasearly : 06

P theremainsofwalls ag (thedyeworks)withitsearthenwarecolumns i na 6 frescowhichdatesback libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 7

Inviziati Palace, the Bishop’s seat via Vescovado, 1 6 15th century Originally built in the fifteenth century by Nicolaio, a member of a very important merchant family, he himself was both a man of action and trade.The lacunar ceiling is particularly noteworthy (It dates back to at least 1494) In the ground floor rooms (which house the Diocese’s offices) past Inviziati Palace, the Bishop’s seat bishops’ portraits may be seen. The Church of St James of the Victory via S.Giacomo della Vittoria 7 14th century Built in 1391, following the battle in which Alessandria’s army led by Jacopo del Verme and Andreino Trotti successfully overcome the French troups led by the Count of Armagnac. Inside: “Madonna del latte” (Our lady suckling child) 1395, thought to have been painted by the painter from Lodi known as “Maestro di Ada Negri”.

Santhià Santhià Gravellona Toce

Casale Milano Monferrato Madonna del latte

Valenza Piacenza Torino ALESSANDRIA

8 Tortona 9

Acqui Novi Terme Ligure

Ovada

Genova Stortiglioni Tower Voltri Marengo (AL) 8 13th century Stortiglioni Tower Built in Medieval times by the Stortiglioni family in the ancient settlement of Marengo. It is now linked by popular tradition to the name of the Longabard queen Teodolinda. Casalbagliano Castle Casalbagliano (AL) 9 13 –17th century The thirteenth century tower was used as a starting point for an elegant seventeenth century residence which was later enhanced by the works of of Carlo Caniggia and Francesco Mensi. In the course of time, the ownership of the castle passed from one family to another. Bagliani, Inviziati, Petitti and finally the Parravicini. This latter family gave it up and it became a military hospital during the first world war and subsequently regional H.Q. of P.N.F .Its abandonment during the last 45 years has led to a state of dereliction in which the surrounding Casalbagliano Castle walls became dilapidated and disappeared. Its once beautiful and

verdant garden has met the same fate. The Medieval Period 5 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 8

TheThe SixteenthSixteenth and an Sde

There are very few remaining vestiges of the “Sumptuous palaces and the verdant splendour of their gardens” of the churches and the imposing fortifications built by Pompeo Rebutti. The sixteenth century town sprang up and developed from the core of the one from the two previous centuries. There are still,however, some significant vestiges of the “Spanish centuries” to be found inside some churches and some subsequently built fortified palaces, such as the clay and polychrome wooden statues in Saint Mary of the Castle Church, some lintel decorations in Palazzo Cuttica, some Caccia paintings in the cathedral and the chorals in the Town Museum.The one remaining building is the church dedicated to The Virgin of Monserrat built as an act of “piety” by the Spanish governor Matheo Otanez.

via S.M.Castello via Milazzo p.zza Gobetti via Scassi spalto Marengo via via Guasco lungotanaro S. Martino p.zza Casale S.Stefano via Milano via Verona p.zza via Mazzini S.Rocco via Vochieri via Schiavina p.tta via Venezia S.Lucia via Alessandro III via Plana via Lumelli via Savonarola C.so Virginia Marini p.zza via Ghilini Carducci p.zza della p.tta Libertà via Dante 2 Lega p.zza via Rattazzi via Pontida Turati via Faa di Bruno via Bergamo via Parma

via XXIV Maggio Roma 3 .so Lamarmora c.so Cavallotti c via Oberdan

corso via Marsala

via S. Lorenzo via S.F. d’Assisi via S. G. d. Vittoria The Sixteenth and Seventeenth Century 6 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 9

deventeenth Seventeenth Century Centurywalk 2

The Church of The Blessed Virgin of Monserrat piazzetta Monserrato 1 1626 Arguably the only remaining Spanish domination era building in the town, it was built under the aegis of the The Blessed Virgin of Monserrat governor Matheo Otanez (1626) In the entrance alcove there is a fresco portraying Our Lady of Monserrat. Further inside, there is a Black Madonna attributed to a seventeenth century Spanish artist.

The Confraternity of St Mary Domus Magna via Ghilini, 41 2 1486 approx Already mentioned in the archives of 1486, it was housed in a huge building which reached as far as the present day Via Dante. It became in 1648 the headquarters of a religious school set up by Scolia and his wife. It underwent structural alterations from 1765 to 1769 led by Giuseppe Castelli. Today, it is no longer a place of worship. St Mary Domus Magna It contained much luxurious furnishing,and particularly noteworthy are two Flemish School wall tapestries from the latter part of the seventeenth century, which are now conserved in the town museum. The former church of St Mary of the Elm Tree via Faa di Bruno, 85-87 3 16th century All that remains of the Benedictine church founded by incomers from the nearby village of Castellazzo in the thirteenth century,and subsequently turned into an Ursuline convent, is the 21 metre high bell tower. Its roof covering was rebuilt in 1888 and the rest of the St Mary of the Elm Tree building now serves as a school. The Sixteenth and Seventeenth Century 7 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 10

The Eighteenth C The Eighteo 1 r CITTADELLA a largo Catania gnot n p.zza Divina Provvidenza via Rossini a spalto Rovereto T

viale Milite I e lungotanaro Solferino m via Giordano Bruno via S.M.Castello via Milazzo u i p.zza F Gobetti 28 via p.zza via Guasco7 31 Casale S.Stefano via Milano 9 18 p.zza via Verona via Mazzini S.Rocco via Vochieri 13 6 via Schiavina 19 12 27 25 p.tta 17 29 via Venezia16 lungotanaro S. Martino S.Lucia via Alessandro III via Plana via Lumelli 26 via Savonarola C.so Virginia11 Marini 20 p.zza 5 via Ghilini s Carducci p. 23 palto Borgoglio zza della 10 p.tta Libertà via Dante Lega spalto Borgoglio p.zza via Rattazzi via Pontida Turati 24 via Faa di4 Bruno 2 via Bergamo via Parma 30 Cavallotti 8 3 Roma via XXIV Maggio piazzale Curiel corso

corso

via Marsala am corso via S. Lorenzo Crimea 22 via S.F. d’Assisi 21 .so L c 14 via S. G. d. Vittoria pi

In the eighteenth century Alessandria became a province of the kingdom of Savoy. The town entered a new historical phase, which would culminate in the Unification of Italy. King Victor Emanuel initiated a new policy for the town, which would be carried on by his predecessors. The main tenet of this policy was that Alessandria should become an important defensive military garrison. The keystone of this policy was the building of The Citadel. The Borgoglio district was razed to the ground,in order to build this stronghold whose construction was founded on state of the art precision military engineering. It also entailed the transfer of noble and ecclesiastic orders to the town centre from the aforementioned district. The Eighteenth Century 8 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:06 Pagina 11

eCenturyenth Centurywalk 3

nza 1 The Citadel 18 Church of St Stephen and Saint Martin 2 Ghilini Palace e Ignoto 19 Saint Rocco Church Milit 3 Cuttica Palace 20 Church of Saint Alexander 4 The Town Hall and Saint Charles

5 Sambuy Palace 21 St Lawrence’s Church

via Galimberti via Scassi 6 Guasco Palace spalto Marengo 22 St John’s Church 7 Civallieri Palace 23 Church of Saint Sebastian 8 Prati di Rovagnasco Palace and Saint Dalmazzo

9 Prati Capriati Palace 24 Church of Our Lady of Mercy 6 10 Conzani Palace ia 25 Church of 11 The Blessed Virgin via Burgonzio Conzani Palazzotto 12 Dal Pozzo Palace 26 Annunziata Church

13 Ferrari Palace 27 Former Bishops’ Seminary via Claro 14 Figarolo di Groppello Palace 28 Former Jesuit College

15 Triumphal Arch 29 Guaracco palace 15 Montello 30 Perboni House via 16 Hospital

via Marengo 17 Santa Lucia Church 31 Church of the Blessed Virgin of the Graces via Oberdan

.so Lamarmora c

ew In just a few decades the town changed beyond recognition and took on architectural and monumental features which ch for the most part are still present today. The leading architectural light during this period was Giorgio Caselli, to whom the nt Town Council commissioned many projects. His most noteworthy works were: the hospital, the prison, the public abattoir,the to fair complex and the Town Hall with its adjoining theatre At this time some of the towns most imposing buildings sprung ng. up such as Palazzo Ghilini, Palazzo Cuttica and Palazzo Guasco being the most impressive examples. ct.

9 lib The Eighteenth Century re tt 10 Palazzo Cuttica di Cassine o percors Palazzo Ghilini The Citadel Town Hall i

i ng l ese 21 - 04 4 3 5 2 1 - housed “IPercorsidelMuseocivico”since23rdMay2004. enlarged it,thenfellintothepossessionofAlessandriaCouncil.Ithas Bianchi. ItwashandedovertoGenoesenoblemanMarcelloDurazzo,who thereof isaccreditedtothemasterbuildersAmbrogioandBernardo family, commencedtowardstheendof17thcentury.Theconstruction the existingfoundationsofaformerpalace,belongingtoCuttica in 1869becameaseatoflocalgovernmentasitstillistoday. forces in1805,thenwashandedovertotheKingdomofSavoyand known as“Alessandria’sRoyalPalace”.ItwasconfiscatedbyFrench commissioned bytheMarquisTommasoGhilini.Itisaffectionately built accordingtotheplansofAstiarchitectBenedettoAlfieriand Council, thisexquisiteexampleofbaroquePiedmontesestylewas Andrea Vochieriwasimprisonedandthenexecuted. Santarosa inMarch1821and1833thelocalproMazziniItalianNationalist L. Pinto,F.DeVicent.ItwasthesiteofuprisingledbySantorredi subsequently completedbythearchitectsG.B:Borra,APapacinid’Antoni, II. thearchitecturalplansweredrawnupbyIgnazioBertolaanditwas the villageofBorgoglio.ItsbuildingwasdecreedbyKingVittorioAmadeo Cooperativa Agricolo-Commerciale” bank. subsequently housed the“BancaPopolare famous guestwasGaribaldi. It housed “L’Universo”hotel,whose most countess ofSambuy.Acenturyago, it bequeathed tohisnieceDariaDelfina, the around 1745.Itwassubsequently modernised byGiovanniTommaso Ghilini housed apalacein1494.Themaincorewas This imposingcomplexofbuildingssprunguponasitewhichalready 2008 1745 via Dante, 2 Palazzo Sambuy 1772 piazza 1 dellaLibertà, Town Hall XVII century via Parma, 1 Palazzo Cuttica diCassine 1732 piazza 17 dellaLibertà, Palazzo Ghilini 1728-1745 borgo Cittadella The Citadel

17 It nowhousestheA.VivaldiMusicalConservatory.Itsbuilding,on Now theheadquartersofbothPrefectureandCounty Situated ontheleftbankofTanaroinwhatwasformerly The headquartersof“CassadiRisparmioAlessandria“ : 07

P ag i na destroyed duringabombingraidin1944. which wasinauguratedin1775and the façade,enlargedawingandaddedtheatre architect LeopoldoVallzonewhocompleted suspended andweretakenupagainbythe Giuseppe CaselliWorkthereonhadtobe began in1772followingtheplansofarchitect 12 Seat oflocalgovernment,itsbuilding libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 13

Palazzo Guasco Gallarati di Bisio via dei Guasco, 49 6 18th century A striking example of a noble residence, for centuries it was the dwelling of one of the area’s leading families. Its present day appearance is the result of an enhancement carried out byby the Marquis Ludovico Guasco- Gallarati of Solero (1723-1784) The left wing houses the County Council, whilst Palazzo Guasco Gallarati di Bisio the right wing is still a private dwelling which has conserved many interesting features such as the forecourt, the embellished staircase and the drawing room. Palazzo Civalieri di Masio via dei Guasco, 42 7 18th century This palace was built for the Cavalieri family who originally came from the Casale area but then settled in Alessandria in the eighteenth century after the marriage between Count Piero and Teresa Sappa de’ Milanesi. This building is unusual in as far as it does not have a forecourt nor a vestibule nor a guest room. A striking feature is the decorated six sided entrance hall. Palazzo Prati di Rovagnasco Palazzo Civalieri di Masio via XXIV Maggio, 2 8 18th century A three storey building consisting of lower mezzanine, nobles’ quarters with elaborately decorated ceilings and upper mezzanine. The forecourt and arcades lead directly onto a stone staircase.

Palazzo Prati Capriata via Casale, 24 9 18th century Palazzo Prati Capriata The arch of the main entrance door and the ornate window frames are the keynote of the architect Benedetto Alfieri. Inside: vast courtyard, arcaded vestibule, ornate staircase and gallery.

Palazzo Conzani via Urbano Rattazzi, 47 10 18th century Originally commissioned by Count Battista Conzani at the beginning of the eighteenth century and enlarged according to the architect Giuseppe Caselli’s plans. This building is all that there remains Palazzo Conzani of what was a much larger complex which took up a whole block. The Eighteenth Century 11 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 14 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 15 lib The Eighteenth Century re The ChurchofOurLadyMercy The ChurchofStSebastianandDalmas tt The ChurchofStGiovannino 14 Former Bishops’ Seminary o percors i

i ng l ese 21 - 04 25 24 26 27 23 22 - has housedthe newseatofTheChamber ofCommerce. It wasinfactthetown’sfirstpublic library.Since2001,thisbuilding library wasopentonotonlynovices butalsotothegeneralpublic. to storetheseminary’sbookslocal architectGiuseppeCaselli.This century. BishopDeRossiawarded the projectofbuildingpremises still conservesnooks,luxuriouscornichesandbeautifulstuccowork. between 1759and1761.Althoughitwasstrippedofitsfurnishing, Defender ofthePoor. rebuilt between1788and1790byCountAgosti, featuring SaintRoccoandtheMadonna.Itwas time oftheplagueascanbeseeninapainting by localarchitectDomenicoCaselli. century andtheninthe1840s.Thelastalterationswerecarriedout subsequent alterationswerecarriedoutattheendofseventeenth Peter ofBergoglio. 2008 18th century via Vochieri, 58 Former Bishops’Seminary 18th century via Urbano Rattazzi Church oftheAnnunziata 1788-1790 via Planaang.Guasco Church oftheAssumedBlessedVirgin 18th century piazza Turati The ChurchofOurLadyMercy 1741 via SanDalmazzo The ChurchofStSebastianandDalmas 1707-1717 corso Roma The ChurchofStGiovannino

17 This buildingdatesbacktothesecond halfoftheeighteenth It waspartoftheconventAugustinenunsandrebuilt This churchcameintobeingatthe The churchwasrebuiltforthefirsttimein1558,an Rebuilkt in1741byTheBenedictinesofCollegiateSt : 07

P ag i na Inside: crucifix ontheportal. note isthelatesixteenthcenturybasrelief Giuseppe DomenicoTrolli.Ofparticular 1769 followingtheplansoflocalarchitect 1717, itwasenlargedbetween1767and of TheCrucifix.Rebuiltbetween1707and 16 Oratory oftheancientBrotherhood polychromewoodcuttings. libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 17

The Former Jesuit College piazza Santo Stefano, 79 28 1683-1747 The Jesuits, who came to Alessandria around 1590 completed this building over a period of time spanning roughly 60 years from 1683 to 1747. It then became the definitive seat of the, college and remained so until 1773 when it was transformed into dwellings From 1803 onwards it housed The Military Precinct for over 150 years was then The Former Jesuit College turned into Council Houses in the 1980s. Palazzo Guaracco via Venezia, 5 29 18th century The Guaracco family originally came from Genoa, but records sahow that they were already residing in Alessandria from as early as 1217. This noble family died out with Pietro the husband of Laura Castellani Varzi, to whom the “house with courtyard” was bequeathed in 1763. It was situated in block 112, then known as San Taddeo. Casa Perboni via Pontida, 17 30 18th century Palazzo Guaracco This building in Via Pontida 17 is of particular note as it is a fine example of a eighteenth century townhouse with its wide forecourt and arcades. The Church of The Blessed Virgin of the Graces via Mazzini 31 18th century This small Church in Via Mazzini houses a fifteenth century fresco portraying “The Madonna with Child”.

Casa Perboni The Eighteenth Century 15 lib The Nineteenth Century re

tt 16

s palto Borgoglio palto via Giordano Bruno o percors

lungotanaro S. Martino CITTADELLA spalto Borgoglio

i Stazione F.S. Stazione F i

ng piazzale Curiel piazzale The Ninet l corso i The Nineteenth

Cavallotti ese via Lumelli via corso

u Crimea 21 m - S.Rocco

p.zza via via e - Carducci 2008

p.zza Turati Casale

via S.F. d’Assisi p.zza

8 C.so Virginia Marini via Bergamo via T

17 via Alessandro III Alessandro via Gobettip.zza lungotanaro Solferino

: via Vochieri via Garibaldi via Rattazzi 07

piazza n

corso S.Stefano

Marconi a P piazza p.zza Roma ag r

via S. Lorenzo i 7

na via S. G. d. Vittoria Milano via o S.Lucia

Lega via Verona via p.tta p.tta 18 3

Catania 4

5 via Faa di Bruno di Faa via largo via S.M.Castello via

via XXIV Maggio XXIV via via Milazzo via

via Cavour Schiavina

Libertà

zza della zza s

11 palto Rovereto palto

via Parma via

corso Pontida via

via Dante via via Ghilini via via Guasco

via Savonarola via via Rossini Cento Cannoni

6 via Mazzini

via Marsala via 1

via Plana via via Venezi via

p.zza Divina e viale Milit Provvidenza

2 via

a C eI libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 19

eCenthentury Centurywalk 4 Rettoria9 1 St Peter’s Cathedral

2 The civic library viale T. Michel 3 Lombard League Square

4 Guerci Gallery

5 Synagogue

gnoto I 6 e Church of Our Lady of Loreto 7 Garibaldi Square

8 Church of the sacred heart of Jesus

9 Church of St Mary the healer

via Galimberti via Scassi 10 Soria Prison spalto Marengo 11 Borsalino Hat’s Museum

12 Marengo Villa (outside town)

13 Marengo Column (outside town)

a It was during this period that both public and private spaces underwent 10 via Burgonzio radically sweeping change. The person who brought all this about was Leopoldo Francesco Valizone who was appointed “Town Architect “in 1814 and remained so for nearly forty years (until 1853). During his tenure who undertook public workd and drew up plans which completely altered the town beyond recognition. “The Commission of Public Ornament” via Claro was set up in 1833 with the express purpose of establishing architectural standards, and of issuing ordinances for building works. Alessandria became the third most important town in the kingdom and strong economic growth brought about transformation such as

Montello gas lighting and the telegraph system in 1849, the railway station became operational in

via 1854. The Borsalino hat factory came into being in 1857 and would go on to become one .so Lamarmora of the most famous in the world as well as influencing industrial output in the whole town. c via Marengo via Oberdan The entrepreneurial classes played their part by investing in building works, thereby creating in short span of years an modern town. The task of expanding the town by demolishing the Napoleonic ramparts and replacing them with long tree lined avenues was entrusted to Antonio Rossetti and Ludovico Straneo. The steam powered tram was introduced in 1888. At this stage “Belle Epoque” influences were to be seen all over the town, the most notable of these being Galleria Guerci, Piazzetta della Lega – the former

palto Gamondio fruit and vegetable market and Piazza Garibaldi. s 17 lib The Nineteenth Century re tt The LombardLeagueSquare 18 o percors The CathedralofStPaul The CivicLibrary The Synagogue i

i ng l ese 21 - 04 4 5 2 3 - 1 earlier in1855.Then1885theCivicMuseumwasalsohousedthere. notary AntonioMariaViecha)hadbeenmovedtothesamesitethreeyears audiovisual aids.Theartfoundation(foundedthankstoadonationfromthe room forlecture,anewspapersandperiodicals, areas foradultsandchildren;itconservesancientvolumespresentsa Recently renovated,theLibraryhasmorethan120.000volumesandoffers convent ofStMargaretandfromtheretoitscurrentpremisesin1858. the BarnabitesofStAlexander,wasmovedtoformerDominicannuns citizen’s whofellintheuprisingsandbattlesofTheRisorgimentoperiod. centre designedbyprofessorDellepianepaystributetothetown’s example ofnineteenthcenturytownarchitecture.Theobeliskinthe period oftimeforthefruitandcornmarkets,thissquareisaclassic Giuseppe Boldi-Trottiin12899,andwasfinallycompleted1922. counterpart due toitslongerandmorefragmented style. town centreblocks whosearchitecturestoodapart fromitslocal goes backtothesixteenthcentury. Itwasconcentratedintoseveral Roveda’s project.Thepresenceof aJewishcommunityinthetown andwasbuiltbetween18671871 followingthearchitectGiovanni leading roleinlocaltownplanning. builder whobelongedtoafamilyplayed name fromGiovanniGuerci,aninfluentiallocal century stylewalkthrougharcade,ittakes 2008 1867-1871 via Milano, 5-7 The Synagogue 1895 Galleria Guerci XIX century The LombardLeagueSquare 1850 piazza VittorioVeneto,1 The CivicLibrary 1857-1877 piazza Giovanni XXIII The CathedralofStPaul

17 Formerly knownas“theCornSquare”andusedoveralong The Civiclibrary,whichwasfoundedin1806atthe“Houseof The synagogueisattheheartof formerJewishquarter Built in1895,atypicallatenineteenth : 07

P on thebelltower,designedbyarchitect demolished byNapoleonin1803.Workcommenced had stoodinPiazzaLibertàbeforebeing Inquisition. Itreplacedtheformercathedral,which which initstimehadservedasaseatofThe the DominicanconventofStMarkformerlystood, style plan(1875-1879).Itwasbuiltonthesitewhere the linesofEdoardoArborioMella’sBramante classical project,thecathedralwasbuiltfollowing ag i na 20 After LeopoldoValizone’sinitialneo libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 21

The church of Our Lady of Loreto via Plana 6 1833 Designed by Leopoldo Valizone and built in 1833, it was part of a convent of Dominican friars. Its name bears witness to the ancient cult of The Virgin of Loreto, to whom another church, which stood to the North of the town walls was dedicated. This church was destroyed in the siege of 1745. Garibaldi Square 7 1855-1900 The church of Our Lady of Loreto This square, which is an outstanding example of nineteenth century eclecticism was built in accordance to the architect Ludovico Straneo’s design. As previously mentioned he was Director of Municipal Public Works. It is one of the biggest arcaded squares in Piedmont.

The Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus via San Francesco d’Assisi 8 1886-1889 Garibaldi Square The church was part of a complex which housed a monastery of Cappucine friars. It was built between 1886 and 1889 on the site of where the monastery of St. Matthew formerly stood, following the design of the architect Giuseppe Boldi-Trotti. In 1933 a sanctuary was added. The Church of St Mary the Healer via Rettoria, 31 9 1818 The first church dedicated to St Mary was built by way of thanks giving after The Plague of 1587 and was completed in 1590. It was enlarged towards the end of the eighteenth century and subsequently demolished for military reasons during the Napoleonic era. It was rebuilt in 1818 in accordance with the architect Casalini’s The Church of the Sacred heart of Jesus project, but was partly destroyed when there was an explosion in a gunpowder store. Its current façade dates back to 1880. Soria Prison piazza don Soria, 15 10 1841-1846 This building, which was designed by the French architect Henry Labrouste, took five years to build (1841-1846). It occupies the space were a monastery and a gothic church formerly stood (called San Bernadino dei Minori Osservanti believed to date from 1450) Its most singular feature is its Saint Andrew’s cross lay out. The Church of St Mary the Healer The Nineteenth Century 19 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 22

Borsalino Hat’s Museum via Cavour, 84 11 XX Century Placed in the historical “Borsalino Sample Room”, the museum houses samples of the world famous headwear made by the Borsalino company since 1857, year of foundation, to nowadays. The museum offers about 2000 hats in different shapes and colours placed in the historical cabinets designed by Arnaldo Gardella. Objects that have signed the phases of production, have been Borsalino Hat’s Museum choosen and classified with the consciousness and the intention to protect the history and the aesthetic and cultural property of the

company. Santhià Santhià Gravellona Toce

Casale Milano Monferrato

Valenza Piacenza Torino ALESSANDRIA

12 Tortona Marengo Villa 13

Acqui Novi Terme Ligure

Ovada

Genova

Voltri Marengo Villa Marengo 4k 12 1844-1847 This villa was built between 1844 and 1847 to commemorate Marengo Villa the eponymous Napoleonic victory of the 14 June 1800. The vast grounds house the bone chapel were the remains of the fallen are gathered alongside a bust of the French General Desaix. In the courtyard: Statue of Bonaparte First Consul (Benedetto Cacciatore, 1847). Inside: Napoleonic Museum.

The Marengo Column Marengo 4k 13 1801 Memorial column topped by Bronze Gallic Eagle to celebrate the victory at Marengo. It weas erected by Alessandria Town Council on 14 June 1801 to mark the first anniversary of the victory. It was removed in 1814 and subsequently restored in 1922 by the Society for The Marengo Column History, Art and Archaeology. The Nineteenth Century 20 lib re tt o percors i

i ng l ese 21 - 04 - 2008

17 : 07

P ag i na 23 21

The Nineteenth Century lib The Twentieth Century re

s palto Borgoglio palto via Giordano Bruno o percors

lungotanaro S. Martino CITTADELLA spalto Borgoglio

i Stazione F.S. Stazione

i ng

piazzale Curiel piazzale corso The Twen l F The TwentiethC ese

Cavallotti Lumelli via corso i

u Crimea 21

m - S.Rocco

04 p.zza via via Carducci

e -

p.zza 2008 Turati Casale via S.F. d’Assisi p.zza C.so Virginia Marini

via Bergamo via T

via Alessandro III Alessandro via p.zza

Gobetti lungotanaro Solferinoa 17

via Vochieri via n : Garibaldi

corso via Rattazzi 07

piazza a

corso S.Stefano D’Annunzio Marconi r

Borsalino piazza Roma p.zza ag piazza via S. Lorenzo o

i via S. G. d. Vittoria Milano via na S.Lucia

Lega via Verona via p.tta p.tta

Catania 24 1

via Faa di Bruno di Faa via largo via S.M.Castello via

via XXIV Maggio XXIV via via Milazzo

c.so XX Settembre via

Schiavina

12 via Cavour 11

Libertà

13 .

zza della zza 9

3 s palto Rovereto palto 10

corso

via Parma via

spalto Gamondio Pontida via

via Dante via

via Ghilini via via Guasco via Savonarola via via Wagner

Cento Cannoni via Rossini

via Mazzini via Marsala via

via Plana via via Venezia via p.zza Divina Provvidenza

viale Milite Ign t

v ia 7 oto e libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 25

Ctenturyieth Centurywalk 5 14 1 Former Chamber of Commerce Buildings

Ignoto 2 “Divina Providenza” Religious Institute lite 3 “Divina Provvidenza” Headquarters

4 TB Clinic

7 5 Hygiene and preventitive Medicine Laboratory

via Galimberti via Scassi 6 spalto Marengo “Cesare Arrigo” Children’s Hospital 7 “A. Volta” Technical High school

8 Borsalino Rest Home

9 Main Post Office Building

6 10 Gino Severini Mosaics a 4 via Burgonzio5 11 Borsalino Employees’ Living Quarters 12 Tannery

13 Agorà Complex via Claro 8 14 Vittorio Emanuele III Sanatorium

Montello

via

.so Lamarmora c via Oberdan via Marengo Alessandria has many important examples of “Rationalism” linked to the work of Milanese architect Ignazio Gardella.Gardella often received the collaboration of Teresio Borsalino, thanks to whom, the sewage system,the Municipal Waterworks,the “Gardella”TB clinic and the Divina Provvidenza Heasdquarters were built. This was the period when Fascist Architecture established itself when The Main

palto Gamondio s Post Office was built and decorated with Severini’s mosaics. This architecture distinguishes itself with its simple spare linear shapes, its symmetrical volumes shorn of any excess decoration ,its large windows and its light coloured smooth plasterwork underpinned with darker shades which are never excessive. All these features have an obvious contemporary Northern European influence in a town which is in constant evolution and open to change.

23 lib The Twentieth Century re “Divina Provvidenza”MichelReligiousInstitute Former ChamberofCommerceBuilding “Divina Provvidenza”Headquarters tt 24 o percors TB Clinic i

i ng l ese 21 - 04 4 2 3 1 nuns. transformed intoboththeadministrativesiteandaconventfortrainee Institute builtintheOrtidistrict.Hethenpaidforthisbuildingtobe mentioned above,theSenatorTeresioBorsalinohadanewlarger desired byMotherTeresaGrilloMicheltookitsfirststeps.In1927.as materials andpsychological needs. at theforefrontinasmuchthat thebroughttogetherphysical both factorswhich,althoughthey causedscandalatthetime,were where thepatientscouldbecomforted bytheirlovedones,where air andlightpassthroughalongside themixedgenderwaitingroom lounge, whichgavethepatienta senseofprotectionwhilstletting attention giventolocalfarmhouses. Thisunusualwallofthesun the latticebrickworkofexternal wall,whichmirrorthedetailed (yellow) hasitsmaximumexpressionin subtle shadesof“colourwithoutcolours genius ofGardella’sBauhausdesign.The perfection whichbearswitnesstothe as having“abreathe-takingproportional time aninnovation.Argandescribedit Rationalist architectureandatthesame Commerce“ from1933-2001. 1954). IthousedTheChamberof Turin architectGionanniChevalley(1868- eclectic architecture:Itwasdesignedby Corporation “itisafineexampleof the seatof“TheCouncilEconomic - 2008 1936-38 via Burgonzio ang.viadonGasparolo TB Clinic 1927 via Faa diBruno, 10 “Divina Provvidenza”Headquarters 1927 piazza DivinaProvvidenza, 10 “Divina Provvidenza”MichelReligiousInstitute 1931-1933 via San Lorenzo, 21 Former ChamberofCommerceBuilding

17 This wasthebuildinginwhichhumanitarianwork Both amasterpieceofItalian Built between12931and1933as : 07

P ag i na Gardella andLuigiMartini. the designofarchitectsArnaldo this buildingcomplexin1927following Teresa GrilloMichel,workbeganon named aftertheMotherSuperior of thesenatorTeresioBorsalinoand Built asasymbolofthepatronage 26 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 27

Hygiene and Preventative Medicine Laboratory via Burgonzio ang. via don Gasparolo 5 1937-39 Designed by Ignazio Gardella, shortly after he had completed the TB clinic opposite He continued his quest of using only the simplest and purest materials available in the search for purity or even an anti conformist poverty. To appreciate it at its best, we should take into consideration its original Hygiene and Preventative Medicine Laboratory form an isolated parallelpipedal structure, which tapered on the left hand side to further enhance its slimness. The stucture lists slightly to the right. A refined mixture of concrete and glass like that of the TB clinic allows the building to be flooded with light. Cesare Arrigo Children’s Hospital spalto Marengo, 46 6 1956-57 This building is also linked to Ignazio Gardella for several reasons The entrance and reception area were conceived in his father Arnaldo’s studio, while Ignazio himself designed the isolation ward along rationalist lines in 1934 This was then demolished to make way for the boiler room. His architectural mark was left on the building starting from the pediatric ward (towards the rear of the complex to the right) by way of the ostentatious entrance hall up to the alternate high/low Cesare Arrigo Children’s Hospital front window arrangement. A.Volta Technical High School spalto Marengo, 42 7 1960-66 The long front façade onto which the coupled windowed classrooms look is enhanced by a uniform height avant-corps (given relief by its angular windows) and its impressive stepped terrace which forms the roof of the underground Lecture Hall Both the façade and the gardens in front of it stretch themselves out towards the town which lends it an importance as a place of learning. A passage lying behind the façade links the classrooms to the laboratories and workshops. A.Volta Technical High School Like many other imposing buildings in the town, it was designed by Ignazio Gardella. Borsalino Rest Home corso Lamarmora, 13 8 1935 This building work was financed by the industrialist Teresio Borsalino and designed by Ignazio Gardella: The refectory is particularly noteworthy which looks onto the internal garden. This room’s most striking feature is its round slim columns Another striking feature is The Chapel illuminated by its porthole windows, this added to its simple ornamentation lends it a stark beauty. Borsalino Rest Home The Twentieth Century 25 lib The Twentieth Century re Housing forBorsalinoemployees tt 26 Main PostOfficeBuilding The GinoSeveriniMosaic o percors Borsalino Tannery i

i ng l ese 21 - 04 10 12 11 9 - bow window,has causedittobecalled“Atemple of Light”(Argan). a smallworktemple.Thebrilliantlight therein,comingfromthejutting neoclassical flavour”.Thisindustrial buildingthustookonthelookof according toSamonà“wasbestowed withanharmoniousaspectof upper floor.A“T”sectionpillarwas used,paintedwhiteandthus (the cuttingandcuringofanimal hides)andthereforerequiredan design. Thisbuildingwasdesigned withanindustrialpurposeinmind choice brickcovers,theoneswhichhadbeenburntinfurnace. Its charcoalwallcladdingconvenientlycoversthewallsmadefromsecond slanting roofwhichArgandescribedas“waferthin,likeahouseofcards“ windows withslidingshutters,isbroughttoanabrupthaltbyamostunusual tenet oforganicarchitecture.Itsaccentedverticality,enhancedbyhigh demand. Thiswayofexploitingspaceaccordingtonecessityisaprinciple so astobeablealterandreducehousespaceinaccordancewithgrowing it wasdesignedbyIgnazioGardella.Itsslantingwallsweredeemednecessary originally TheWritingRoom. seen. AGiulioRossomuralcanalsobeseenontheleft,inwhatwas around theworld.InEntranceHallanotherSeverinimosaicistobe The TelegraphServiceontheright.sidepanelsdepicttheirexpansion Abstract devicesthedevelopmentofThePostalServiceonleftand from thecentredepictsthroughuseofFuturist,Cubist,Realistand advice, subsequentlycoveredbySeverini’smosaic.Severini,starting was considered“bareandbleak”byMarcelloPiacentini,was,onhis feature isthatlocalmaterialwasusedinthisbuilding.Thefaçadewhich a classicstatementofinteriorarchitecturethetime.Asignificant designed bythearchitectFrancescoPetrucci.ThevastPublicHallis the themeofcommunicationbylandandseaair. left sideoftheentrancehallis3m60longoneachanddealswith parts whichcoveratotallengthof37,80.Theinternalmosaiconthe Telegraphic Servicesisdividedintothree depicts thehistoryofPostaland (1883-1966). Theexteriormosaic,which (Central Italy)architectGinoSeverini Office buildingistheworkofCortona which adornsthefrontofMainPost 1941 thisgeometrical-classicistdecoration 2008 1935 corso Borsalino, 15-17 Housing forBorsalinoemployees 1940-1941 piazza dellaLibertà, The GinoSeveriniMosaic 1939-1941 piazza 23-24 Libertà, Main PostOfficeBuilding 1949-56 via Wagner,38/D Borsalino Tannery

17 The buildingwascompletedfollowing IgnazioGardella’s Considered tobeamasterpieceofFifties‘Italianarchitecture, An exampleoftheRomanschoolRationalism,itwas Completed between1940and : 07

P ag i 23-24 na 28 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 29

The Agorà Complex corso Borsalino - corso Cento Cannoni, 2 13 1984-91 The Agorà Complex was built according to the plans drawn up by Ignazio and Jacopo Gardella in collaboration with F. Cuttica and F. Nonis. Alongside the nearby supermarket, they take up the premises of what were the premises of the Borsalino factory. The area given over to offices still remains today. The Agora is a multifunctional building (offices, shops and private dwellings). The big windows with their recessed gables recall those of the previous building and the The Agorà Complex part situated in Corso Cento Cannone matches up perfectly with the original main factory entrance. It is an example of Eighties Reminiscence Architecture. The pink and “testa di moro” brown of the supermarket are Gardella’s favourite colours. Vittorio Emanuele III Sanatorium viale Forlanini, 26 14 1929-35 The fenced of grounds and building cover 95,000 square metres, of which the latter takes up 5,325. At its time, it was at the forefront in terms of hospital buildings. It was financed by industrialist Teresio Borsalino, and was Ignazio Gardella’s first commissioned work. He took much from a design by his father Arnaldo. The core is a traditional “H” shaped block (Men’s ward and women’s ward were The Agorà Complex linked to the central medical services) to which were added many rationalist touches. Sparse geometrical forms recall naval architecture: One final point of note is the church situated at the back of the complex, arguably the first architectural project of a religious building along rationalist lines in Italy. The Twentieth Century 27 lib Monuments re Monument totheFalleninBattle tt 28 o percors Andrea Vochieri Carlo Carrà i

i ng Monum l Monuments ese 21 - 04 commemorative transcription wasdictatedbyProf. Ferdinando Bosio. to PiazzettadellaLegaandthen towhereitnowstands.The squad followinghisparticipationin theuprisingsof1833.Itwasmoved commemorate theAlessandrialawyer whowasexecutedbyafiring down duringtheSecondWorldWarandallthatremainsisitsplinth. Turin architectLuigiBelliandwasinauguratedin1913.Itsmelted awarded theSilverMedalforValour.Themonumentwasworkof in battleatAduawhilstonanexpeditiontoAfrica,Hewasposthumously engineer VenanzioGuerci. 1937 andoriginallyinstalledinashowcase,speciallymadebythe the workofTurinsculptorGaetanoOrsoliniandwasinauguratedin all thetown’scasualtiesinbothfirstandsecondworldwar.Itis the survivorreturningfromwarThePlinthbelowbearsnameof - 2008 1855 Andrea Vochieri Monument 1913 Giuseppe FranziniMonument 1937 Monument totheFalleninBattle

This monumentwasfirstraisedin thetowncemeteryto Captain GiuseppeFranziniwhowasborninAlessandria,fell The bronzehorseandriderwhichstand5m60highdepict s palto Borgoglio palto :

07 Stazione F.S. Stazione

piazzale Curiel piazzale P

ag corso Crimea corso i na 30 v.le Repubblica

via S.F. d’Assisi

corso Borsalino

Garibaldi piazza corso Roma D’Annunzio

piazza via S. Lorenzo

via S. Giacomo d. Vittoria via XXIV Maggio XXIV via

c.so XX Settembre e via Cavour libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 31

ents walk 6

Most of the towns most noteworthy monuments are clustered round the big public garden They are

gi o dedicated to the town’s most illustrious citizens and make an interesting set. Most date from the nineteenth or first half of the twentieth century. there are however some later examples. The most impressive of all is “Monument to The Fallen in Battle” It is lined up with the fountain and the railway station both of which, like the monument, were built in the 1930s. Luigi Testore

Carlo Carrà Monument 1967 Dedicated to the famous painter from nearby Quargnento. It is the work of the sculptor Giacomo Manzo and was inaugurated in 1967. Luigi Testore Monument 1893 Luigi Testore was born in Alessandria and was a majoring Garibalbi’s voluntary corps. He fell at the battle of Monterotondo. The bust which was inaugurated in 1893, is the work of the sculptor Brusaglino. Emilio Faa di Bruno Emilio Faa di Bruno Monument 1893 This bust is the work of the sculptor Brusaglino and is dedicated to ship’s captain Emilio Faa di Bruno. He was born in Alessandria and fell at Lissa in 1866. It was inaugurated in 1893 on the initiative of The United Workers’ Society. Felice Cavallotti Monument 1899 Erected in memory of the Milanese poet and democratic orator. Cavalotti was killed in a duelin Rome in 1899. The original bust was in marble and sculpted in 1899 by Cavallero. It was destroyed in 1934 and Felice Cavallotti replaced by the current one which is the work of Giovanni Rapetti. Monuments 29 libretto percorsi inglese 21-04-2008 17:07 Pagina 32 progetto grafico studio Vacotti studio grafico progetto

Walks thrOuGh HistOry

In this booklet drawn up and published by the Alessandria Council’s Department of Heritage Cultural activities and tourism you will find invaluable information about the town’s most significant historical buildings. They have been split into five periods going from the Middle Ages to the Twentieth Century.

Città di Alessandria Assessorato al turismo e promozione della città Assessorato alla cultura

Città d’Arte della pianura padana