Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps RUHRGEBIET Including Dortmund, Gelsenkirchen, June - July 2006 Essen and Bochum
Industrial tourism Up towers, down shafts
N°1 Complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com contentS 3 Herzlich Willkommen! ESSENT IA L CI TY GUID ES Contents Glossary 5 In Your Pocket begrüßt in seiner Reihe der Stadtführer auch diese The basics schöne Stadt. History 6 Cities and mines Die In Your Pocket City Guides verstehen sich als kostenlose Stadt- © Dortmund-Agentur Cornelia Suhan führer.Unsere Zielgruppe ist klar! Unsere Leser besuchen die Stadt Events 8 und wissen weder was die Butter in Hamburg kostet, noch warum Music, concerts and industry die Münchner blasse Wurst essen und wo diese wirklich schmeckt. World Cup Fan Fest 10 Have a ball Unsere Leser sind Touristen und Geschäftsreisende: sie möchten sich die Stadt ansehen, Vorführungen genießen, Essen & Trinken, Industrial tourism 11 Postkarten schreiben, oder in ihrer freien Zeit Ausstellungen be- Clamber over smelters, dive into gastanks suchen und ein typisches Souvenir kaufen. Dortmund 14 Main city of the Ruhrgebiet Aber unsere Leser sprechen kein Wort Deutsch! Gelsenkirchen 16 Wir geben den internationalen Reisenden ausführliche Informa- Transformed mining town tionen über Ihr Unternehmen und präsentieren Ihre Leistungen in englischer Sprache. Essen 24 Cultural Capital of the region... and Europe
Bochum 26 Mining, nature and nightlife
# Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps FRaNkFuRt MuNiCH CologNE Hamburg HaNovER
" april - May 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 Maps & Index Transport map 28-29 New Look Revamped In Your Pocket Museums by Street register 30-31 night Join the all-night culture fest City map 32-33
Feature 1 Short description of the feature. Should be max. 3 lines. Index 34 Football events ! Feature 2 - max Win or lose, this is Revamped In Your where to party Pocket 2 lines Short description of the Football events Harbour tours Sco Feature 2 - max feature. Should be max. Win or lose, this is Down in the docks !" 3 lines. The river tour season where to party 2 lines opens Football events Short description of the feature. Should be max. Win or lose, this is N°21 - €1.75 N°13 - ??price?? N°1 - €1.75 River tours N°1 - €1.75 N°1 - ??price?? 3 lines. www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com Wine and dine on the www.inyourpocket.com where to party www.inyourpocket.com Rhine
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing events maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps kaiSERSlautERN lEipzig Nuremberg RuHRgEbiEt Stuttgart including Dortmund, June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 June - July 2006 gelsenkirchen, June - July 2006 Essen and bochum
Ruhrpott industrial tourism Up towers, down shafts
automobiles Visiting Mercedes and going medieval Porsche A tour through the old town Football events Win or lose, this is Football events where to party Win or lose, this is where to party
Football events Football events Win or lose, this is Win or lose, this is where to party where to party Brought back to Going Palatine life Strolling in the forest Plagwitz’ industrial revival
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N°1 - FREE COPY www.inyourpocket.com
© Dortmund-Agentur Benito Barajas Sco
tel: +49 (0)30 27907981, germany@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com June - July 2006 4 ForeWord gloSSArY 5
The Ruhrgebiet area hasn’t had it easy. After all the industrial development, incredible immigration and Driving urban growth, wartime desctruction and bland Germany has a brilliant network of Autobahn (motorways, Beer or Culture? rebuilding efforts, the industries that powered prefixed A) and Bundesstrasse roads (major roads, prefixed by B. Traffic drives on the right with speed limits of 130km/h Germany for so long turned out to be too inefficient or 100km/h outside built-up areas, and 50km/h in built- In Prague, you don’t have to choose. and the workfoce too expensive to compete with up areas. And indeed, there are really no speed limits on We have it all. others. More recently, the development of the Autobahnen which makes for some fun driving and some And we have it all in Prague In Your Pocket. area away from heavy industry and towards a truly ghastly accidents. Keep a close eye on the rear mirror Keep it where it belongs. high-tech economy seems to have paid off, and the if you’re planning to overtake or if you’re in the left lane, as those headlights in the distance behind you may get Ruhrgebiet is witnessing something of a revolution. uncomfortably close very quickly. Seatbelts must be worn And finally, the decaying industrial landscape is at all times and children under 12 years can only travel in being opened up for the public, with many exciting the front seat with a child restraint. German laws are strict sights now accessible to clamber over, dive into or by many accounts when it comes to driving after you have simply gawk at by night. had a few pints, glasses or snifters full of booze. The legal maximum alcohol to blood ratio for driving is 0.05%. This Ruhrgebiet In Your Pocket guide focuses on the Language World Cup cities Dortmund and Gelsenkirchen, and $ ! The German language has been somewhat misrepresented in the regional heavyweights Essen and Bochum. If Sco " you’re here for the World Cup, don’t be deterred by the foreign media over the past decades, and when you hear it spoken it’s not as harsh as you may expect. Although you won’t the endless built-up areas you see from the highway Welcome to Dortmund be able to learn it on a short trip, it’s always nice to memorise or the train window - there’s a wonderful new post- a few key terms like thank you (danke), please (bitte), hello *EJ@KIJJ>;I;7IED 8KJ 7BIE7D?DJ;HD7J?ED7B CKI?9<;IJ?L7B industrial world out there that’s well worth a visit. Welcome to our city. Dortmund (gutentag) and goodbye (auf wiedersehen). You’ll notice # ;B;8H7J;J>;=;D?KIE< ,H7=K;VI7:EFJ;:IED is happy to receive visitors to that written German has some odd characters, such as the www.inyourpocket.com Enjoy the Ruhrgebiet, and let us know what you the city who are to watch the ß, the ü, ö and ä. Annoyingly, these are interchangeable with combinations of letters and can (and often are) replaced by ss, thought of the place, and this guide, at ruhrgebiet@ World Cup football matches. Here, you’ll see that we’re ue, oe and ae respectively – which explains why the website inyourpocket.com. very close to football - it’s only of Cologne (Köln) is spellt www.koeln.de. PIYP s.r.o., V Jámě 1, 110 00, Praha 1 3km from the main station to tel. (+420) 224 947 601, [email protected] the stadium, and just 500m to the Fanfest venue on Frie- Money Cover story densplatz. The best way to get cash in Germany is to use an ATM Enjoy many exciting games in machine, of which there are plenty all over the country. Essen’s glorious Unesco- Dortmund, a vital city; a city that’s dressed up from head German banks do not charge for using foreign cards in Safety listed Zeche Zollverein their machines, so check with your own bank if you’ll pay Germany is a very safe country to travel in, and other than mine basks in evening to toe, ready for football. Celebrate in a worldy way with light. The mine was close the inhabitants of Dortmund. any commission. Even if you do have to pay a euro or two the usual precautions against pickpocketing, there are no decades ago, but now is Of course our city has more to offer than football - first to use an ATM, it’ll be better value and easier than going to special preparations you should make. Although Germany renovated and houses class hotels and restaurants, sport, entertainment, and a one of the banks or train station exchange offices (like the has been in the news recently for racist attacks, these a fascinating museum diverse cultural offer. Welcome, and enjoy our city. Reisebank chain) as they have worse exchange rates and incidents are quite rare and are by no means a purely German complex. Dr. Gerhard Langemeyer will charge a commission. phenomenon. Germans are aware that their country is more Mayor of Dortmund Germany ditched the Deutsche mark in 2002, adopting the closely scrutinised than others when it comes to this, and euro, pronounced locally as oi-ro. Germany’s economy is racism and violence is not tolerated, witness the impressive the largest in Europe, and therefore the majority of coins level of security around synagogues and Jewish institutions: in circulation now are German ones; you’ll see Berlin’s sturdy barriers and round-the-clock armed guards. Brandenburg Gate on the €0.10, €0.20 and €0.50 coins, and the German eagle flapping around on the €1 and €2. the Editorial Copyright notice banknotes, if you’re wondering, are the same for the whole of Time Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle Text and photos copyright In Your euroland, and are adorned with generic European bridges. Germany uses the 24-hour clock system, known as military Editorial Contributors Pocket GmbH 2006. Maps copyright time in some places, but as simply as ‘the time’ here. By ESSENT IA L CI TY GUID ES Sco, Ali Lemer cartographer. All rights reserved. No part doing away with all the am, pm, noon and midnight nonsense, Research Morwenna Parkyn of this publication may be reproduced Shopping practicalities it’s really quite useful for avoiding confusion, and Germany In Your Pocket GmbH Layout & Design Tomáš Haman in any form, except brief extracts for Axel-Springer-Str. 39 the purpose of review, without written German retail laws were incredibly strict in the past, with is one of the few places where the 24-hour clock is even Maps Kartographie Eichner, permission from the publisher and shops not even regularly opening on Saturdays a year just used in spoken language. You may be told that the museum 10969 Berlin [email protected] Tel: (+49)(0)30 27 90 79 81 copyright owner. The brand name In Your a decade ago, and still are not as flexible as elsewhere. On closes at sixteen-thirty, or that the train departs at twenty- Photos Sco Pocket is used under license from UAB Sundays nearly everything shuts down, with perhaps just a thirtyeight. Fax: (+49)(0)30 24 04 73 50 Cover photo: [email protected] In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, few shops at the train station open, and on Saturdays you’ll The Zeche Zollverein mine lift tower Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). www.inyourpocket.com © EMG/Peter Wieler see many smaller shops closing around 14:00. Though it may thwart your purchasing plans, it does result in a special Visas © In Your Pocket GmbH, a company Editor’s note relaxed feel to the Sundays, which is quite nice for a change. Citizens of EU and EEA countries do not need visas to enter of UAB In Your Pocket Sales & Circulation The editorial content of In Your Pocket Vokieciu 10-15 guides is independent from paid-for Credit cards are still to be embraced by most shops, much to Germany; most others do. For more details, visit the website General Manager Stephan Krämer advertising. Sponsored listings are the annoyance to big-spending foreigners. This is due to the of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, www.auswaertiges-amt. Vilnius, Lithuania Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76 clearly marked as such. We welcome all system of electronic debit card payments that was in place de. Germany is part of the Schengen treaty, which allows Advertising Manager readers‘ comments and suggestions. in Germany and other mainland European countries much free flow of goods and traffic between member states. This Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin. Sebastian Rudolph, Philippe Krüger, We have made every effort to ensure earlier; this is a safer and cheaper system than credit card as means that your passport only gets checked when entering June/July 2006, 150.000 copies Corina Alt, Notker Hilbrenner the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no it always requires PIN identicication rather than a signature, and leaving the Schengen area, and once you’re in, you responsibility for changes and errors. and is free of the 3% commission for the shopkeepers can travel overland from Portugal to Finland without being (eventually paid by you, dear shopper). stopped at the borders.
Ruhrgebiet In Your Pocket June - July 2006 6 hiStorY hiStorY 7
The area between the Lippe, Ruhr and Rhine rivers in 1931 — The workers and industry management go head northwestern Germany was recognized for its strategic Europe In Your Pocket to head in a bitter lockout and strike movement. The location as far back as Roman times. Like much of the government, stepping in to end the crisis, forces the workers continent, for most of the Middle Ages it was primarily back into the factories at reduced wages and rights. a rural area - but its true destiny would be fulfilled in the 1932 — Essen’s Bauhaus-designed Zeche Zollverein XII 19th century as it became the country’s premier industrial colliery is opened. region, primarily through coal mining, steel and iron pro- 1933-1945 — Wealthy Ruhr industrialists give financial duction. The industrial crises of the mid-twentieth century, support to Hitler’s seizure of power. Hitler responds by giving however, would see “the Coal Pot” (Ruhrpott) struggle to the industries large national subsidies and contracts for redefine itself and keep its economy strong through other public construction works and arms manufacture, making labour-intensive areas such as manufacturing. In the past the Ruhrgebiet a booming mainstay of the German economy. few decades, it has bounced back by concentrating on the Steel production rises around 400% during this time. service and technology sectors and actively promoting Unemployment disappears almost overnight, destroying the innovative and vibrant tourist and cultural centres - many workers’ resistance movements. of them built into the defunct factories that once made 1938 — The nationwide “Kristallnacht” pogrom in November Ruhrgebiet the powerhouse of Europe. causes the destruction of synagogues across the Ruhrgebiet, including in Essen, Gelsenkirchen, and Duisburg. 58 C.E. — The Rhine river becomes the northeastern border 1941-45 — Cities in the Ruhrgebiet are heavily bombed of the Roman Empire. by Allied forces to cripple the Nazi war machine. The bombs 5th century — Duisburg, one of Europe’s largest inland destroy huge parts of civilian areas (especially in Essen, ports, is a major stop on the Hellweg, an important medieval Dortmund and Gelsenkirchen) in addition to some industrial trade route. targets, although in the end production is not that badly 700 — The area around Gelsenkirchen is settled by affected. Saxons. 1946 — The Morgenthau Plan for the Allied occupation of 800 — Charlemagne sets up a royal court near the trade post-war Germany calls for all industry in the Ruhrgebiet to route, at the site of the present-day centre of Bochum. be shut down and the area controlled by international forces, 852 — Essen is founded as a monastery for women of in order to turn Germany into a “primarily agricultural and noble blood. Future abbesses would include Mathilde, pastoral” country; the plan is eventually shelved a granddaughter of Emperor Otto I; Theopanhu, a Sco 1953 — Hassel Kokerei, the first new coking plant since granddaughter of Otto II; and Sophia, a sister of Otto III. the war, opens in Gelsenkirchen. 880 — The first mention of Dortmund (as “Throtmanni”) 1847 — Alfred Krupp makes his first cannon from cast steel, mid-1950s — The demand for coal begins to diminish as the appears in official documents. launching the Krupp company’s long and successful career world starts to turn to crude oil, and the Ruhrgebiet’s factories 883 — The Normans conquer and occupy Duisburg. In Your Pocket continues to expand, launching no less as Germany’s #1 arms manufacturer, and earning him the start to feel the pinch. Within a little more than a decade, 1120 —Duisberg builds its first city wall (better late than than eight new city guides in Germany, in time for the soccer nickname, “The Cannon King”. almost 80 mines and factories in the area will be closed never). World Cup. All World Cup host cities now have their own In 1848 — Industrial workers join in nationwide revolts in down, representing over 50% of the production capacity. 1150 — The first church in Gelsenkirchen is built. Your Pocket, in print and available locally at hotels, and also March, demanding shorter hours and better living conditions; 1961 — Adam Opel car manufacturing company opens a online as both browseable text and a free downloadable the revolution will eventually fail. plant in Bochum. PDF guide. Apart from that, there’s the free Football In Your 1854 — The Ruhrgebiet’s first blast furnace is built at the 1963 — The first major east-west highway of the area, the Pocket insert guide which can be found in all In Your Pocket Henrichschütte Iron and Steel works in Hattingen. Ruhr-Schnellweg, is opened; it follows the path of the Hellweg, guides in Germany - the booklet has information on teams 1860 — The first coal mine in Herne opens. a major trading route since the Middle Ages. and stadiums and has a nifty fixtures table. Elsewhere, new guides will hit the streets of Kosovo, Macedonia and 1860-1890 — Hundreds of thousands of immigrants from 1965 — Ruhr University, the first modern university in the Montenegro this summer. If you would like to be a part of Germand and Poland stream into the Ruhrgebiet for factory Ruhrgebiet, is opened in Bochum. the Pocket group, publishing your own guide, contact us at jobs, increasing the population twentyfold in just 30 years. 1973 — The last of the 17 collieries still operating in Bochum [email protected] for more details. You can also 1892 — The first theatre is built in the Ruhrgebiet. after WWII closes down. keep up to date with the latest developments by logging on 1898 — Dortmund’s Art Nouveau-inspired colliery Zeche 1974 — Westfalenstadion, now Signal Iduna Park, the to www.inyourpocket.com/press. Zollern II/IV is opened. largest football stadium in Germany (with a seating capacity 1902 — A federal delegation investigating the Ruhrgebiet’s of 82,932), is opened in Dortmund. massive industrial pollution describes the water of the Ruhr 1987 — The Henrichschütte blast furnace is closed down 1152 — The Emperor Barbarossa rebuilds Dortmund as containing excessive amounts of “ammonia, chlorine, despite bitter protests from workers. (which was previously destroyed in a fire) and resides there saltpeter and nitric acid”. 1987 — Pope John Paul II is made an honorary member for two years. 1902 — The first art museum is built in the Ruhrgebiet. of the FC Schalke 04 football club after he hosts a mass in 1226 — The town of Hamm is founded by Count Adolf I. 1904 — The football club FC Schalke 04 is founded (originally its home stadium. 13th c. — Dortmund joins the Hanseatic League, a major as Westfalia Schalke) by a group of high school students 1988 — The musical Starlight Express opens in a specially European trading alliance. from Gelsenkirchen. built theatre in Bochum that cost over €12 million and seats 1321 — The city of Bochum is founded. 1906 — The city of Bochum has an annual coal output of 1,750, and is still running today. 1469 — Hamm joins the Hanseatic League, which will soon 5 million tons. 1999 — The Hassel Kokerei closes down, marking the end make it one of the most powerful towns in the Ruhr area. 1917-18 — The Krupp factory makes seven “Paris Guns” of 117-year-old history of coking in Gelsenkirchen. 1655 — A medieval university is founded in Duisburg; it will - the largest guns used in World War I - to be used against 2000 — The last colliery in Gelsenkirchen closes down. be dissolved in 1818. France. 2002 — Sri Kamadchi, the largest Hindu temple in Europe, 1811 — Friedrich Krupp opens a small foundry in Essen, 1923-24 — French and Belgium troops occupy the is built in Hamm. the beginnings of what his son Alfred will eventually turn into Ruhrgebiet in retaliation for Weimar Germany’s failure to 2003 — The Ruhrgebiet has a population of roughly 5.3 one of the largest corporations in the world. make war reparation payments incurred during World War million people, making it the 4th largest conurbation in 1824 — The industrial age begins in Duisburg with the I; the citizens of the Ruhr area meet the occupiers with an Europe. construction of its sulfuric acid factory. organized program of passive resistance. In the face of 2004 — Duisburg is damaged by a freak tornado on 19 1828 — A dockyard for steamships is built in Duisburg to economic collapse, the new coalition government eventually July accommodate the burgeoning inland shipping trade. calls for an end to the strikes a few months later. 2006 — “Essen for the Ruhrgebiet” is declared the European 1839 — The first German steam locomotive is manufactured, 1929 — The US stock market crashes, causing American Capital of Culture for 2010 and construction begins on a regional railroad system. investment in the Ruhr industries to disappear. Within the 2006 — Germany hosts World Cup football championships; 1840 — Major seams of hard coal are discovered in the area, next four years, more than half of the Ruhrgebiet’s mining German football mainstays Dortmund and Gelsenkirchen are Sco soon to launch the Ruhrgebiet as an industrial powerhouse. and iron production will shut down. among the host cities.
Ruhrgebiet In Your Pocket June - July 2006 8 eVentS eVentS 9
DORTMUND Classical music 7 June, 20:00 6th International Dortmund Bach-Symposium Friedrich-Henkel-Weg 1-25, tel: 90 71 24 79
18 June, 11:00 Frühjahrskonzert Berufsförderungswerk Dortmund, Hacheneyer Str. 180, tel: 502 32 50
19 June, 20:00 10th Philharmonic Concert: “Musical paintings” Gunther Schuller, Johannes Brahms, Paul Hindemith © Agentur Lutz Kampert Konzerthaus Dortmund, Brückstr. 21, tel: 502 72 22 Exhibitions 28 June, 20:00 23 June, 19:30-23:00 Other events Until 20 August Status Quo Choir night, UNICEF charity 11 June, 13:00 Caspar David Friedrich. The invention of the romantic Glückaufkampfbahn St. Reinoldi-Kirche, Ostenhellweg 2-4 Musik im Park – Music in the park Museum Folkwang, Goethestraße 41, tel. 0201 88 45 301 1200 amateur and professional musicians play in the 29 June, 20:00 8 July, 20:00 open air. Until 5 July Gipsy Kings World of Gospel Westfalenpark, An der Buschmühle 3, tel: 502 32 50 Art from the 20th century: pictures, objects, sculptures Glückaufkampfbahn Westfalenhallen, Rheinlanddamm 200, tel: 947 19 40 Galerie Neher GmbH & Co. KG, Kaninenberghöhe 8, tel. 0201 26 69 90 02 July, 20:00 Bob Dylan Concerts ESSEN 11 June - 9 July Amphitheater Gelsenkirchen 4 June, 15:00 - 17:00 Deutscher Fußball in aller Welt – German football Peter Weisheit Band Classical music around the world 3 July, 20:00 Fredenbaumpark, Lindenhorster Str. 6 2 June – 24 September Zeche Zollverein, Schacht XII, Halle 5, Gelsenkirchener Straße Die Fantastischen Vier European Classical Music Festival Ruhr 181, tel. 0201 83 03 636 Glückaufkampfbahn 06 June, 19:30 Various locations, tel. 0201 813 50 John Watts 27 June - 23 July 7 July, 20:00 Subrosa, Gneisenaustr. 56 10 July - 18 August The Red Dot award: product design Bryan Adams Piano-Festival Ruhr (in Essen) Red Dot Design Museum, Gelsenkirchener Straße 181, tel. Glückaufkampfbahn 11 and 12 June, 20:00 Various locations, tel. 0201 896 68 42 0201 30 10 40 Red Hot Chili Peppers Westfalenhallenm, Rheinlanddamm 200, tel: 120 46 66 Exhibitions Concerts Other events Until 08 July, daily 08:00-18:00 4 June, 20:30 23-25 June Brasil in Gelsenkirchen, Paintings Jeff Cascaro - Soul of a Singer Tour” Ruhr in Flammen (The Ruhr in flames) Wissenschaftspark RWE Pavillon, Philharmonie Essen, Huyssenallee 53, tel. Essen-Steele, tel. 0201 24 88 800 0180 59 59 598 18 June - 20 August, Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00 14-16 July Ballkünstler:Künstlerball Korn Wine festival in Essen-Borbeck Städtisches Museum Gelsenkirchen 7 June, 20:00 Essen-Borbeck, tel. 0201 68 10 24 Grugahalle Essen, Norbertstraße, tel. 0201 72 44 290 Other events 07 June, 20:3 GELSENKIRCHEN 15 July, 21:00 Kevin Forbes & Friends, Jazz, pop and soul Sensation White Landhaus am Staadt, Ruhrtalstraße 111, tel. 0201 490 Classical music Veltins-Arena 24 24 7 June, 19:30 “Der Messias” 15 July Kammerchor Stuttgart, Matthäuskirche Buer-Middelich Bud or Bit Peter Maffay Grugapark Essen, Norbertstraße 2, tel. 0201 88 83 104 12-13 June, 20:00 So you came to Germany to taste the famous local brews? Sibelius: Sinfonie Nr. 2 D-Dur op 42. Ravel: La Valse You’re in for a bit of a surprise if you’re planning to order 28-20 July Musiktheater im Revier, Großes Haus beer in any of the stadiums or public viewing areas, as one © Landschaftspark Duisburg-Nord Grugaparkfest, Grugapark of the main sponsors of the World Cup is Anheuser-Busch, 23 June, 19:30 the US brewery responsible for Budweiser and whose Extraschicht Il trovatore interpretation of what beer should taste like differs a bit Dramma von Giuseppe Verdi from the European viewpoint. As exclusive beer sponsor Extraschicht is the Ruhrgebiet’s night of industrial culture; Musiktheater im Revier they have the sole right to promote their beer in and around one €10 ticket is valid for many cultural performances the official venues. Thankfully, after years of legal battle, in various industrial locations. A complimentary shuttle www.inyourpocket.com Bitburger, Germany’s second-largest brewer, is allowed to bus service links them. Concerts sell their brew here as well, though not advertise it. Outside 17 June, 18:00-02:00, www.extraschicht.de, 8 June, 20:00 of the official venues, local bars are allowed to sell whatever tel. 0201 17 670. Simple Minds beer they like. Glückaufkampfbahn
Ruhrgebiet In Your Pocket June - July 2006 10 World cuP FAn FeSt induStriAl touriSm 11
In the Ruhrgebiet’s two World Cup host cities, Dortmund The area between the Ruhr, Lippe and Rhine rivers consisted It’s Brazil’s Cup to Lose and Gelsenkirchen, you can expect myriad events during the mainly of rural villages until the 19th century, when the Ruhrgebiet Tourism Centre tournament. Fans without tickets are still welcome to travel to Industrial Revolution turned it into one of Europe’s largest The idea that this could be the match cities, as there are plenty of viewing possibilities centres for coal mining and steel production (which soon Gutenberg Str. 47, Essen, tel. 0201/176 70, info@ one of the most open and and other activities. earned it the nickname Ruhrpott, or Coal Pot). Hundreds of ruhrgebiettouristik.de, www.ruhrgebiettouristik. fiercely contested World In both city centres, many pubs and restaurants will be thousands migrated from all over Germany, Poland and other de. Cup tournaments in history has been doing the rounds screening the matches in televisions and screens, while countries to work in the Ruhrgebiet’s collieries, coking plants, in the press – especially large public viewing screens are set up in parks and city and foundries. Today, its population of over 5 million (who the UK press – ever since centres. live in cities like Dortmund, Duisburg, Essen and Bochum) The Industrial Heritage Trail England beat Argentina in a In Dortmund, fans can find both cheap accommodation makes it one of the largest conurbations in Europe. Today’s rather meaningless friendly and party atmosphere at the huge Fan Camp (www. workforce is concentrated more in manufacturing and Zeche Zollverein XII Colliery & Red Dot Design Museum match, held in Switzerland fancampdortmund.de) in the Westfalenhallen complex technology, but the former industrial sites have since been Gelsenkirchener Str. 181, Essen, tel. 830 36 36, www. at the end of last year. (The opposite the stadium – here you can find 4000 beds and renovated and reborn as vibrant tourist attractions and stiftung-zollverein.de. Open 10:00–19:00. Admission match was also memorable quality food and sanitary facilities. Pay €35 per night for a cultural centres on a route called the Industrial Heritage €6/3. for England captain David bed, a public transport ticket for the region, and admission Trail. In recognition of this, Essen and the Ruhrgebiet were Formerly the largest coal mine in Europe, this beautiful Beckham’s pre-game to the Fan Hall party zone, right next door. The Fan Hall itself recently named the “European Capital of Culture” for the piece of industrial Bauhaus design — now a lively arts and comment that ‘it is a neutral has live transmissions of all matches, concerts, cinema, year 2010. cultural centre — made it onto the UNESCO World Heritage venue for both teams.’) comedy and more. Admission is free; for more information list in 2001. The jewel of the Ruhrgebiet Industrial Heritage Since then the idea that Fresh from Champions see www.worldcup2006.dortmund.de. Trail, this complex features the Zollverein Museum (guided the tournament is ‘open’, League success with Ticketless fans in Gelsenkirchen can join a smaller but no RuhrTOPCard tours only), the famous Red Dot Design Museum, an art in fact code for ‘England Barcelona, Ronaldinho have a chance’, has been less grand Fan Fest party while still experiencing a stadium gallery and ice-skating rink in the former coking plant, and a will be looking for another atmosphere at the Glückauf-Kampfbahn grounds, the Get free and discounted admissions to almost 120 at- fine-dining restaurant. Take tram N°107 from Essen to the increasingly winning friends tractions across the Ruhrgebiet with the RuhrTOPCard, and influencing people. World Cup triumph with football pitch used for training Schalke reserves. You can Zollverein stop. To p u t a n y E n g l a n d Brazil.” © Mediafax Foto watch every game live on a large videowall, and in between including museums, cinemas, theatres, music festivals, supporters reading this matches and on non-match days there’s an entertainment amusement parks, hotels, tours and transport. Valid until The Gasometer / Centro out of their self-induced hubris: England have absolutely programme. The grounds fit 22.000 people – mind that the 31 December 2006, the card costs €33 (€23 for children) Am Grafenbusch 90, Oberhausen, tel. 0208 850 37 no chance whatsoever of winning the World Cup; with or car park does not fit as many cars, so take tram N°302 from and has two levels of service. First, choose any three 30, www.gasometer.de. Open 10:00–18:00, closed Mon. without Wayne Rooney. Indeed, the now legendary Rooney the main station or the well-signposted Park & Ride car parks individual days throughout the year to get free admission Admission €6/4. metatarsal injury has given the English press a ready excuse to get there. For more information visit www.fifawm2006. to any attraction displaying the green “Eintritt Frei” (Free This “industrial cathedral” began life as a blast-furnace when England do indeed crash out of the tournament. It gelsenkirchen.de. Entrance) sign. Furthermore, a blue “Extra Frei” (Extra gas tank in 1929, but has been turned into a 117-metre- should not, however, hide the enormous failings that England Free) sign means free entrance any day of the year when high exhibition hall and art gallery. Besides the annual art currently suffer from. They still lack a proper goalkeeper, they you show your card, while a red “Ermäßigung” (Reduced) exhibition (past artists include Christo and Jeanne-Claude, have little depth up front, no genuine left-sided wide man, and World Cup Language Guide sign means you’ll pay discounted rates - and neither of although they didn’t wrap it in fabric), there’s also a glass in Steven Gerrard, Frank Lampard and David Beckham too these will use up any of your three selected days. Buy elevator that will take you to the roof for a panoramic view many square pegs in round holes. England lack balance. Tourist industry workers in Germany generally speak the RuhrTOPCard from any area tourist centre, or from of the Ruhr valley and next-door Centro, the largest shopping Other nations in this tournament do not, and Brazil is one English well, but thanks to the annoying habit of dubbing the website. Both of these also have more information of them. Though the wealth of talent they have does – as it mall in Europe. Accesible by bus or tram from Oberhausen everything foreign on television and in cinemas into on participating attractions and cities. to the Neue Mitte stop, plus a short walk. has to – mask their own failings, there is no question of their German, the average local is not exposed to English very coach Carlos Alberto Parreira using all six of his best attacking Info Hotline: 0 18 05 - 18 16 180 (€0.12/min), much. That’s why we’ve composed a little list of terms www.ruhrtopcard-2006.de. players at the same time. Indeed. His decision to name his that may be of use during your trip. first XI as long ago as April was classic one-upmanship: the rest of the pack now knows exactly what it has to beat. England as we have discussed, are not qualified to do so. One/two/three/four/five Ein/zwei/drei/vier/fünf Bier, With their original tactic of ‘keep it tight at the back and hope beer, please. bitte. Wayne knocks one in from 30 yards’ now out of the window. No thanks, I’ll have a Bit Nein Danke, ich hätte lieber They have woken up to discover there is no plan B. Expect beer instead. ein Bit. then, a variation on plan A: ‘keep it tight at the back and hope So, who do you think will Was glaubst du, wer Frankie/Stevie/Becks knocks one in from 30 yards.’ Hardly win? gewinnen wird? the stuff of legend. Where is the toilet? Wo ist die Toilette? Is any other nation prepared to meet Brazil’s challenge? Of Where is the stadium? Wo ist das Stadion? the traditional ‘big guns’ Argentina looks frail and lacking in Where is the train Wo ist der Bahnhof? cohesion, Italy – amid scandal at home – look less capable station? even than England of putting together a decent run in the That was offside. Das war Abseits. tournament, the host nation Germany currently possesses The referee is biased. Der Schiedsrichter ist the worst team in their memory, Spain – crippled by the bizarre parteiisch. selection policy of its coach – will underachieve once more, He should have scored Das Tor hätte er schiessen and France are an ageing, wilting team hardly set for one last there. müssen. glorious hurrah. Only Holland, conspicuously absent from all He’s hit the post/ Er hat den Pfosten / die talk of potential winners, look capable of mounting a decent crossbar! Latte getroffen challenge to Brazil. And even that will depend on their mood. Take off (player name)! (player name) abziehen! Indeed, the In Your Pocket prediction is that Brazil’s likeliest Bring on (player name) (player name) einwechseln! challengers will be an outsider. We – for no reason more Penalty! Elfmeter! scientific than a hunch – think the Ukraine will do well. We also Goal! Toooooooooooooor! like the look of the United States, and if they can find the net often enough Portugal will do well. Yet none of these three will beat an on-form Brazil. And Brazil are the best team in Germany. Not since Italy surprised even themselves to take the trophy in 1982 has the best team in the World Cup gone home empty handed. The cup then is Brazil’s to lose. We doubt very much that they www.inyourpocket.com will do so. But as we said four years ago (while we were heavily tipping France) in a cup competition, anything can happen… © RVR
Ruhrgebiet In Your Pocket June - July 2006 12 induStriAl touriSm induStriAl touriSm 13
Landschaftspark Duisburg-Nord Emscherstr. 71, Duisburg, tel 0203 429 19 30, www. www.inyourpocket.com landschaftspark.de. Open 24hrs, admission free. A former industrial wasteland has been turned into one of the most popular destinations in the Ruhrgebiet. Besides power homes, farms, factories and transportation. Your acres of beautiful greenery and wildflowers, old factory eyes will light up at these exhibits detailing the history of buildings house musical performances and art exhibits, electricity and how it changed the world. Housed in an old former ore silos have rock walls and a “climbing garden”, a transformer plant built back in 1928, the museum features massive gas tank is the largest artificial scuba-diving centre hands-on demonstrations and electric-era artifacts to in Europe, and an old blast furnace has been turned into an explore. Take bus N°205 from Herne or Recklinghausen to observation deck. Accessible by tram from Duisburg to the Hochlarmarkstraße. Landschaftspark Nord stop, plus a short walk. Zeche Zollern II/IV Colliery German Mining Industry Museum Grubenweg 5, Dortmund, 0231 696 11 11, www.zeche- Am Bergbaumuseum 28, Bochum, tel. 0180 587 72 34, zollern.de. Open 10:00–18:00, closed Mon. Admission www.bergbaumuseum.de. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat, Sun Stiftung Industriedenkmalpflege Manfred Vollmer €3.50/2. 10:00–17:00, closed Mon. Admission €6.50/3. Opened in 1898 as the Gelsenkirchener Bergwerks’ model Go from the abyss to the heavens on a tour of the largest colliery, this mine features beautiful Art Nouveau-designed coal-mining museum in the world. Comprehensive exhibits Altes Schiffshebewerk Henrichenburg (Henrichenburg marble panels and doorways. It’s currently the headquarters and collections of artifacts teach you the history and science Ship-Lift) of the Westphalian Industrial Museum, and the restored of coal and iron ore mining and let you understand the life Am Hebewerk 2, Waltrop, tel. 02363 970 70, www. buildings feature temporary and permanent exhibits on 19th- of the brave miners who put their lives on the line every day. schiffshebewerk-henrichenburg.de. Open 10:00–18:00, century coal mining. A housing settlement on site shows the The galleries take you 20 metres underground, and then the closed Mon. Admissions €3.50/2. living conditions of workers and their families. Accessible trip up the 68-metre gear tower offers a spectacular view. Kaiser Wilhelm II inaugurated this ship elevator lock in 1899, by train N°43 (Emschertalbahn) from Dortmund or Herne to It’s located in central Bochum. and for over half a century it was used to lift barges of up Bövinghausen stop, plus a short walk. to 600 tons – until replaced by a larger, faster one still in Hansa Coking Plant use today. Learn more about lock and ship lift technology Henrichshütte Iron and Steel Works Emscherallee 11, Dortmund, tel. 0231 931 12 20, and the crucial role inland shipping played in the growth Werksstrasse 25, Hattingen, tel. 02324 924 70, www. www.industriedenkmal-stiftung.de. Open 10:00–18:00, of the Ruhrgebiet, and see historic steamships and work henrichshuette-hattingen.de. Open 10:00–18:00, Fri closed Mon. Admission €5, under 12’s free. boats on display. Take bus N°231 from Recklinghausen to 10:00–21.30, closed Mon. Admission €2.40/1.50. Once the largest coking plant in Europe, the Hansa plant Kanalstraße. Built in 1854, this giant plant employed more than 10,000 (which included a coalmine and iron and steel works) workers, who mined ore and coal and produced iron, coke is now the headquarters for the Ruhrgebiet’s industrial Umspannwerk (Electricity Museum) and steel, all under one roof. The blast furnace – the oldest preservation foundation — an “accessible megasculpture” Uferstraße 2-4, Recklinghausen, tel. 02361 38 22 in the Ruhrgebiet – was shut down in 1987 despite angry with an “adventure trail” which you can take to discover © RVR - Swakowski 16, www.umspannwerk-recklinghausen.de. Open protests, and now features exhibits for adults and children the evolving flora and fauna that have since taken over the 10:00–17:00, closed Mon. Admission €2/1. on the history and science of iron- and steel-working in defunct factories. The coal tower gives a fantastic view of Thyssen, founder of the company that would eventually Besides coal mining and steel production, one of the major the Ruhrgebiet. Accessible by bus from Hattingen Mitte or Dortmund. Accessible by tram N°47 to Pasevalstraße stop, become ThyssenKrupp AG, one of the largest steel inventions of the industrial revolution was electricity to Bochum to Henrichschütte or Industriemuseum. plus a short walk. producers in the world. Now it’s an award-winning museum featuring 14 levels of interactive, multimedia exhibits on Schwebebahn (Suspended Monorail) water, its place in the environment, and the importance of Oberbarmen–Vohwinkel stations, Wuppertal, www. protecting it (plus a fantastic view from the top). Accessible schwebebahn.de. Open 05.20–23.22, check website for by S-Bahn S1 or S3 to Mülheim Styrum. timetables. Tickets €1.80/1.15. It’s not just a Shelbyville idea – the monorail is alive and well Museum der Deutschen Binnenschifffahrt (Inland in Wuppertal, a city just south of the Ruhrgebiet. Opened in Waterways Museum) 1901, the Schwebebahn travels suspended from a track Apostelstraße 84, Duisburg, tel. 0203 80 88 90, www. twelve metres above Wuppertal and its river, taking about binnenschifffahrtsmuseum.de. Open 10:00–17:00, 35 minutes to complete its twenty-station trip. The system closed Mon. Admission €3/2 (ships €21.50). has been completely renovated and modernised, and carries Duisburg is the largest inland port in Europe, and this almost 23 million passengers every year. Less than two museum, housed in the old city baths, exhibits the history of euros will let you take this moving observation deck along inland shipping from its beginnings through to modern times. the entire line. The real showstopper is a 1913 freight yacht under full sail. Two antique ships are moored nearby and can be toured Aquarius Wassermuseum (Water Museum) during the summer months. Accessible by bus or tram from Burgstraße 70, Mülheim an der Ruhr, 0208 443 33 90, Duisburg or Oberhausen. www.aquarius-wassermuseum.de. Open 10:00–18:00, closed Mon. Admission €3/2. Westfälisches Freilichtmuseum (Westphalian Open- This beautiful old water tower was built in 1892 by August Air Museum) Mäckingerbach, Hagen, tel. 02331 780 70, www. freilichtmuseum-hagen.de. Open April–Oct, 09:00–18:00, closed Mon. Admission €5/2. To understand life in the Ruhrgebiet before coal and steel changed everything, visit this recreation of an 18th-century village in the Mäckinger Valley, near Hagen. Trained artisans will teach you about almost 60 old trades such as forging, brewing, baking, and printing, and you can watch nails, rope, honey, bread, paper and more made right before your eyes. There are free workshops on weekends. Take bus N°512 © Dortmund-Agentur - Jürgen Wassmuth from Hagen to Freilichtmuseum. © RVR
Ruhrgebiet In Your Pocket June - July 2006 14 dortmund dortmund 15
Where to stay Symbol key Cafés Indian Café Kleimann B-1, Petrikirchhof 8, tel. 14 49 21, www. Taj Mahal B-1, Kampstr. 82, tel. 53 46 18 01, www.tajmahal. Over €200 P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted cafe-kleimann.de. A quaint spot for a coffee break or takeaway de. A classic Indian restaurant similar to many you’ll find on any high O Casino H Conference facilities cakes and buns, Café Kleimann is a charming family-run busi- street in the UK, this place specialises in Tandoori food as well as City Hotel Dortmund B-2, Silberstr. 37-43, tel. 477 96 ness full of delicate ladies nibbling and chattering away with as offering a wide choice of vegetarian dishes. Run by a charming 60, fax 47 79 66 69, [email protected], www. T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled each other. No better or worse than anywhere else, the two family, some of whom speak fairly good English, the food is excel- cityhoteldortmund.de. A nice non-mainstream hotel in the R Internet W Wi-Fi L Guarded parking things that should be noted here are their to-order cake range, lent. There’s Cobra, Kingfisher and Anokhi beer too, and those on a heart of the city, small and friendly, a bit boutique with lots of include chocolate sponge mobile phones and the toilets that budget should certainly take advantage of the great value €5 lunch art lining bright yellow and orange corridors, big fluffy pillows, F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms clean themselves, occasionally when you’re still sitting on them, menu. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 23:30. A cable television and your old friend the wireless hotspot. K Restaurant M Nearest metro station and usually just before the automatic air freshener over the In a state of constant renovation some of the bathrooms door quirts you in the face as you leave. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, remain a bit old fashioned, but that only lends to the overall D Sauna C Swimming pool Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. AS International character of the place. Q (7 singles N59 - 250, 41 doubles Turm Restaurant C-4, Florianstr. 2, tel. 138 49 75. N79 - 280). AGHLW Kamps B-1, Hauptbahnhof. Your industry standard train sta- If you’ve always wanted to eat expensive gourmet food in a Park Inn C-2, Olpe 2, tel. 54 32 00, fax 57 43 54, dort- tion café unremarkable if it wasn’t for the fact they open so early. revolving restaurant 139 metres in the air then your wishes will Hilton C-4, An der Buschmühle 1, tel. 108 60, fax 108 67 [email protected], www.park-inn-dortmund.de. Regal You’ll need at least three cups of coffee here to get the full effect be granted to the full here. But think about it a minute. You’re up 77, [email protected], www.hilton.com. Located carpets and lots of elegant stripes set the tone for this classy from the caffeine, but they do at least serve hot croissants and in the sky going round and round. Do you really want to eat? If next to the marvellous City Park, the Hilton’s ugly exterior be- upper end business class hoThe standard singles all come with other small tasty treats to get the ball rolling before the train you can stomach the gimmick then by all means go ahead, but a trays the delights hidden within. Ignoring the fact they call the Pay TV, some rooms with showers and some with baths, and does. QOpen 05:45 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 21:00. much better option would be to get your thrills in the observation restaurant Rhapsody, everything is done with exquisite taste. there’s a trouser press in every room for gentlemen who never tower (which is actually higher up than the restaurant) and eat in The large lobby and reception area has a children’s check-in, the learned to iron. Best of all is the Kaiser Suite, deliciously over the Wenkers B-2, Betenstr. 1, tel. 52 75 48, www.wenkers. the restaurant at ground zero. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. A rooms, especially those overlooking the park, are awesome, top with its own Jacuzzi. Extras include snazzy meeting rooms, de. Neither a typo nor an indication of the sort of clientele inside, coming with minibars, thousands of television channels and a posh restaurant and whirlpool. Q (83 singles N90 - 129, 23 Wenkers is a good-looking café- baths in all the rooms. A great choice if you can afford it and doubles N104 - 148, 8 suites N). ADFGHKLUW bar in the heart of the city serving don’t mind the trek into the centre. Q190 rooms (singles appalling espresso and food such N99 - 198, 185 doubles N124 - 223, 5 suites N229 - 353) Stiftshof C-1, Stiftsstr. 5, tel. 52 47 01, fax 52 47 as potato wedges, chicken wings Breakfast 19 €. ACDFGHKLPUW 02, [email protected], www.hotelstiftshof.de. A and burgers from a daily black- strictly no frills budget affair, Stiftshof offers a choice of more board menu. Two large screens Mercure Dortmund City B-1, Kampstr. 35-37, tel. 589 or less identical rooms containing the absolute minimum of also make this place a good place 70, fax 589 72 22, [email protected], www.mercure. things a place can have if it really wants to call itself a hoThe to relax and sink a few cold beer com. A confusing entrance requiring a trip in a glass lift that rooms are small and a little tatty, with showers only in the in front of the football. QOpen whooshes you into a small reception area staffed by nice young bathrooms, cable television and beds that look like a job lot 09:00 - 23:00. AB ladies in the usual Mercure costumes. The rooms are standard from an old hospital. In fact the whole place looks a bit like Mercure stuff, geared towards the business traveller and includ- a hospital, but at these prices and in this location it would ing nice big baths, enticing minibars and wireless internet. A be mean to grumble. Q (4 singles N98 - 119, 8 doubles Chinese good location and late drinking in the bar finish things off rather N159 - 198, 1 suite N309 - 330). AGKL Wok-Man B-1, Brückstr. nicely. Q84 rooms (10 singles N60 - 120, 72 doubles N90 - 15, tel. 52 60 99. Top class 150, 2 suites N100 - 200). ADFGHLUW hhh rapid Asian nosh in a top class Hostels canteen setting including a Youth Hostel B-2, Silberstr. 24-26, tel. 14 00 74, fax 14 fixed menu plus, best of all, a €75-150 26 54, [email protected], www.djh.de/jh/dort- help-yourself buffet of spicy nH Dortmund B-1, Königswall 1, tel. 905 50, fax 905 mund. A good central location, spotlessly clean and almost Eastern food with noodles or 59 00, [email protected], www.nh-hotels. snazzy, this is yet another German youth hostel that breaks rice. If you’re in a hurry between com. A swish modern beast next to the hauptbahnhof with the youth hostel mould. With a choice of singles, double and church and museum and can’t free copies of the FT (in German) in the lobby and nothing dorms and stark hospital corridors, amenities are basic but afford to wait two hours for a but suites, suites, and more suites. One of the new type good. The dorms sleep from four to six, some coming with cold schnitzel then this is the of hotels who push the envelope just that little bit further, en suite facilities and others with classy shared showers. place for you. QOpen 11:00 - choices come in such guises as special suites for women The best bargain in town are the singles, which resemble 23:00. (they have women’s magazines in them) and the meticulous nothing like a youth hostel and come with their own quality selection of modern art to make your stay just that little bit bathrooms for little more than a handful of peanuts. Q125 more comfortable. Some suites are nothing more than large rooms (singles N20 - 40, doubles N20 - 34). AGHL German rooms with extra furniture, whereas others are veritable Pfefferkorn A-2, Hoher Wall apartments complete with mini kitchens are bathrooms Restaurants 38, tel. 14 36 44, www.pfef- the size of a house. Q190 rooms (190 suites N65 - 145) ferkorn-dortmund.de. Run Breakfast €14. ADGHLPTUW by a charming, very hands-on Asian lady, this beautiful old-world Tayman C-2, Olpe 39, tel. 206 51 35. A large Asiatic German restaurant features Tourist information barbecue joint as seen throughout most of the civilised world lots of carved wood, oil paint- these days with classic modern décor, a rich mix of diners ings and a slightly snooty air. and a pleasant laid back atmosphere. For those who’ve been The German-only menu offers &IND