How One Company Is Selling Dreams and Dish Soap in China

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How One Company Follow us on WeChat Now is Selling Dreams

Advertising Hotline 400 820 8428 and Dish Soap 城市漫步北京英文版 11 月份国内统一刊号: CN 11-5232/GO in China China Intercontinental Press ISSN 1672-8025

NOVEMBER 2017

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 1 主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社地址 : 北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心邮编 100045 Published by China Intercontinental Press Address: 11th Floor South Building, HengHua linternational Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing 100045, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 陈陆军 Chen Lujun 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili 发行 Circulation 李若琳 Li Ruolin

Editor-in-Chief Noelle Mateer Deputy Editor Dominique Wong National Arts Editor Erica Martin Digital Content Editor Justine Lopez Designer Iris Wang Contributors Dominic Ngai, Jocelyn Richards, Mia Li, Sky Thomas Gidge, Yuka Hayashi, Vivian Liu, Zaruf Ezhan, Qinxin Lu, Holly Baer, Gabriel Clermont, Tan Siok Siok, Marco Costantini

HK FOCUS MEDIA

Shanghai (Head office) 上海和舟广告有限公司上海市蒙自路 169 号智造局 2 号楼 305-306 室邮政编码 : 200023 Room 305-306, Building 2, No.169 Mengzi Lu, Shanghai 200023 电话 : 021-8023 2199 传真 : 021-8023 2190 (From February 13) Beijing 广告代理 : 上海和舟广告有限公司北京市东城区东直门外大街 48 号东方银座 C 座 9G 邮政编码 : 100027 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie Oriental Kenzo (Ginza Mall), Building C, Room 9G, Location: 08-10 Podium Floor W3 Building Oriental Plaza, Wangfujing TEL : 010-56076596 Dongcheng District, Beijing 100027 Behind the Elevator at W3 Lobby 电话 : 010-8447 7002 传真 : 010-8447 6455 Guangzhou 上海和舟广告有限公司广州分公司广州市越秀区麓苑路 42 号大院 2 号楼 610 房邮政编码 : 510095 Room 610, No. 2 Building, Area 42, Lu Yuan Lu, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou, PRC 510095 电话 : 020-8358 6125, 传真 : 020-8357 3859-800

Shenzhen 广告代理 : 上海和舟广告有限公司广州分公司深圳市福田区彩田路星河世界大厦 C1-1303 C1-1303, Galaxy Century Building, Cai Tian Road, Futian District, Shenzhen 电话 : 0755-8623 3220, 传真 : 0755-8623 3219 Happy Hour18:00--20:00 Everyday Craft Beer Buy 1 Get 1 Free Office Manager Vivid Zhu Sales Manager Emma Cao Sales Jessica Zhou, Anita Wang, Betty Wang

National Operation CEO Leo Zhou Sales Project Director Henry Zeng Head of Communication Ned Kelly Financial Manager Laura Lu Location: 11-15 Podium Floor W3 Building Oriental Plaza, Wangfujing TEL :010-56075290 HR/Admin Director Penny Li Head of Digital Vickie Guo Digital Content Manager Bridget O'Donnell Digital Miller Yue, Amanda Bao, Orange Wang, Yu Sun, Elsa Yang, Jimmy Mi

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2 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Editor’s Note NOVEMBER 2017 DEALS

We're giving away tickets to some of I stumbled upon this month’s cover story because I wanted a donut. I was at the newest branch of Dunkin Donuts, you know, “checking it out for the maga- the very best Beijing zine,” when I noticed something strange: I was the only one there. And yet Rich & Jay, the cafe next door, was packed. I’d heard of neither Rich nor Jay, but their parties, openings, faces were everywhere – on the cafe’s walls, to-go cups and merch. It was… creepy. The more I explored this wing of Sanlitun’s new Pacific Century Plaza, the shows and talks all more I found to be creeped out by. Rich DeVos and Jay Van Andel are the founders of Amway, the massive American direct-selling company, that’s frequently month, alongside been accused of being a pyramid scheme. The Rich & Jay cafe is inside Beijing’s first Amway Experience Center, where on-site tour guides lead visitors through free meals, drinks, museum-like displays about the company with an almost cult-like fervor. Again, creepy. Amway, which stands for American Way, has a rocky history in China – discounts and prizes. the government banned it, along with other companies it deemed pyramid schemes, in 1998, but allowed it back in 2005, under strict regulations. With All you have to do the Chinese government threatening a new pyramid scheme crackdown this year, I wondered – how will Amway get around this? Do these massive Experience Centers have anything to do with it? And what is the ‘American is scan the QR code Way,’ anyway? Read about all of this in this month’s cover story (p. 42). Elsewhere in the magazine, Dominic Ngai details the surprising history be- below, follow us on hind China’s pretty-boy pop stars (p. 10); Erica Martin talks to ‘desert blues’ legends Tinariwen (p. 34); and Dominique Wong takes us both to Singapore (p. WeChat and keep an 24) and a creepy-as-hell teddy bear restaurant (p. 59).

Until next month, eye out for your chance to win. You'll get some other great stuff on your phone too.

Noelle Mateer Editor-in-Chief

ThatsBeijing

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 3 6 CITY

7 A BIKER’S HIGH(WAY) Beijing’s highway for bicycles gets the go-ahead

8 PLEBS VS CELEBS Young and old Beijingers on whether they follow celebrities

10 THE FRAGILE STARS The link between Confucius and xiaoxianrou 7

18 LIFE & STYLE 21 SCENE & HEARD This month’s new openings are in Sanlitun, obviously 20 ONE FOR ALL A guide to the Formula One x Asia 28 KEEP IT UNDER WRAPS 21 Cool scarfs to keep you warm this winter

30 ARTS 34 THE BLUES CREW Introducing Mali desert blues rockers Tinariwen 36 HIS DARK MATERIALS DJ Josh Cheon on catharsis and The Cure

37 SOUNDS GOOD A closer look at new China album releases 34

52 EAT & DRINK 57 THE BARBECUE KING Jing-A’s new brewpub is a game changer 58 NO FILTER The man behind Beijing cafe guide Black White Filter 59 CHARLIE CHAPLIN 59 …strikes again with Chaplin Bar & Kitchen

4 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM 42 THE AMERICAN DREAM The dramatic past – and future – of direct-selling schemes in China

14 HUTONG CALLING Beijing’s alleyways, before the bricks

P40

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 5 CITY

ANOTHER TIME A photo book captures the city's hutongs before the bricks, p14

Generation Gap Robocops Chinese Urban Dictionary p8 p8 p17 TALES OF THE CITY 7 | NOVEMBER 2017 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM The bicycle expressway is just one of many is just one of many expressway The bicycle Beijing officials also hopes this will promote Beijing officials also hopes this will promote in a smog- of transportation modes green Beijing highway, With the bicycle riddled city. shared-bike is capitalizing on the current the capital in the past that has swept trend 2.4 million shared currently are There year. that the local in Beijing – so many bikes from bikes banned new shared government the city in September. entering underway currently projects bike-oriented construct in the capital. Beijing also plans to and bicycle 600km of pedestrian walkways and 3,200km of the end of this year lanes by 2020. paths by pedestrian and bicycle . “I found out about this . “I found That’s Beijing In addition to easing traffic congestion, easing traffic In addition to “Of course I will use it,” Hu Xia, a resident Xia, a resident Hu “Of course I will use it,” cycle to 30 minutes 20 to take It will only Traffic between the areas of Huilongguan, of Huilongguan, the areas between Traffic is welcome highway the bicycle So far, crowded when you go to work by subway subway by work go to you when crowded Hu says. during rush hour," of Huilongguan who works in Zhongguancun, works who of Huilongguan tells [I think it's a good idea] last year. news and work, time to my because it will shorten time spare in my bike by traveling I liked the I heard So when I had a baby. before excited.” I was news, Zhongguancun via the to Huilongguan from currently the commute whereas expressway, The new road car. by one hour roughly takes on public transportation will also ease traffic the – much to – such as buses and subways it's very know, “You of commuters. relief whereas the capital’s bicycle expressway is expressway the capital’s bicycle whereas commuters. for being built specifically Shangdi and Zhongguancun has become and it’s years, in recent notorious living that one-fifth of residents estimated in Zhongguancun in Huilongguan work in Shangdi. The new work and 16 percent and help ease traffic would expressway times. commute reduce locals. to news

’ reports. reports. China Daily

Beijing isn’t the first Chinese city to devise devise city to Chinese the first Beijing isn’t The issue with existing ‘bicycle-only The issue with existing The announcement was made by Beijing made by The announcement was above) is intended for exercise and leisure, and leisure, exercise for is intended above) difference is that Xiamen’s path (pictured path (pictured is that Xiamen’s difference such an idea. A 7.6km elevated bike path bike such an idea. A 7.6km elevated The in Xiamen in February. completed was using the road. using the road. and highways. In addition, e-bikes and In addition, e-bikes and highways. from prohibited will be strictly motorbikes The proposed bicycle highway will avoid avoid will highway bicycle The proposed other streets from being built away this by paths and lanes in the capital is that they paths and lanes in the capital is that they with cars and motorbikes. overrun often are to 7 meters wide and consist of both elevated wide and consist of both elevated 7 meters to tracks. and ground-level project are yet to be released, initial plans released, be to yet are project lanes, be 5 two will have that the road show last month, but plans have been in the works been in the works last month, but plans have the specifics of the Although since last year. city center deputy director Gan Feng early early Gan Feng deputy director city center phases, construction is expected to begin to phases, construction is expected year, next Although the project is still in its research is still in its research the project Although connect the northwest areas of Huilongguan of Huilongguan areas connect the northwest hub Zhongguancun. and Shangdi with tech will be completely dedicated to cyclists. The cyclists. to dedicated will be completely 9km and will stretch expressway proposed Beijing may soon be home to its first-ever its first-ever soon be home to Beijing may that roadway – a two-lane highway” “bicycle

by Justine Lopez by GREEN LIGHT LIGHT GREEN

HIGHWAY” GETS THE THE GETS HIGHWAY” BEIJING’S “BICYCLE “BICYCLE BEIJING’S THE BUZZ

GENERATION GAP Do you follow celebrity news and gossip? ZHANG, 17

FALLIN' FOR YOU

A woman captures autumn foliage in Sanlitun last month.

photo by Frank Verburg

“No, I don’t follow celebrity gossip, and I never really cared to either. I feel like celebrities have literally no connection to me, and what they do in their private lives is none of my business. Besides, to me, they are living very abnormal, unordinary lives with little to no actual societal contribution. I’d rather know more about the lives of scientists who actually contribute to society in countless ways.”

LIU, 75

A COP OUT

Police robots were out in force during last month’s Golden Week. Stationed near Tiananmen Square, the bots were equipped with facial recognition software and an extend- able electroshock arm, reports The Daily Mail. A voice emanating from a speaker attached to each machine reminded tourists to “please queue in an orderly fashion and cooperate with “I do, but only those of the actors that I like, security inspections. Please produce such as [Anhui actor] Li-li Liu. I usually like your identification documents and celebrities with very good acting skills, so do not push or shove.” The robots I’m interested in knowing more about them were reportedly used as part of a trial, besides their acting talents.” with the aim of easing police officers’ As told to Yuka Hayashi workloads.

8 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY DOMINIQUE WONG / bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

‘Snow affairs work team’ (n):

… is the length, in kilometers, that two university students roller- A group of experts from snow-abundant countries, such as Finland skated from Jining, Shandong, to Beijing during last month’s National and Canada, that have been appointed by the Beijing Organizing Holiday. The trip took the two men more than five days to complete, Committee to help research ways to make and preserve snow for with about eight hours of skating each day. After meeting at a univer- the 2022 Winter Olympic Games to be held in Beijing, according to a sity roller-skating club, Xing Jiarui and Men Dengqiang discovered a ‘2017 Beijing Fact File’ produced by the municipal government last mutual desire to travel long-distance on skates, according to Beijing month, according to The Associated Press. The team aims to solve Youth Daily. In Beijing, the duo visited attractions like Tiananmen Beijing’s lack of snowfall problem before the capital hosts the games. Square, National Stadium and… a big skating rink.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 9 CITY | FEATURE

by Dominic Ngai

The History – and Future – of China’s ‘Little Fresh Meat’

– on a

Five million likes, two million comments and one million reposts. That’s the number of reactions to Luhan’s October 8 Weibo post announcing his relationship with actress Guan Xiaotong. Five days later, he garnered a million more reactions post telling his fans to stay warm on a chilly Friday. . The pop star is beloved for his soft, almost feminine Luhan is one ofxiaoxianrou a brigade of Chinese male superstars, collectively labeled as ‘little fresh meat,’ or appearance.

10 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

his look is inescapable to anyone living in Chinese cities. You’ve likely seen actor Kris Wu’s ‘Blue Steel’ in Xiaomi ads, and Luhan’s cheery grin as he enjoys (or pretends to enjoy) fried chicken in KFC banners. Chinese consumers – especially young women born in the 90s and 00s – clearly have a soft spot for them. are more than pieces of meat –- But xiaoxianrou they’re cash cows for Chinese brands. In May, after l’Occitane announced Luhan as the brand ambas sador for their cherry blossom skincare line, all 20,000 units of a limited-edition gift box bearing the celebrity’s name were sold out online – within- two minutes. Indeed, these pretty boys have some of the highest engagement numbers among all - Chinese celebrities, as well as tremendous com mercial and social influence. Often more than their counterparts abroad, according to consumer intel ligence research firm Bomoda. But why are Chinese people so obsessed with these artificial-looking, guy liner-wearing stars, and what makes them so influential in the first - place? The short answer is Korea. Since the late 90s, the Korean Wave – shorthand for the grow ing influence of Korean pop culture around the is world – has stolen the hearts of Chinesexiaoxianrou youth. The uncanny resemblance between K-pop stars like G-Dragon and China’s very own - hard to ignore. But for scholars like Song Geng, there’s another answer, and it’s right here in our backyard. An as sociate professor at the University of Hong Kong who has written extensively about the portrayal of Chinese men in pop culture,, as well Geng as their argues Korean that theand xiaoxianrou appeal of Japanese influences, can actually be traced all the way back to the time of Confucius, during China’s Spring and Autumn period. (That would be the fifth and sixth centuries, BCE.)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 11 CITY | FEATURE

“The soft image of men is more easily accepted in Chinese culture because of our roots in Confucianism”

a sexual connotation that was not part of the fragile scholars’ appeal,” Song notes. This new, sexualized take on fragile manhood, then, is due to the growing financial independence - “The ‘soft’ image of men is more easily accepted in of Chinese women, according to Song. “Traditionally, - Chinese and other East Asian cultures because of our women were the objects of desire, but these pretty shared roots in Confucianism, where the ideal image boys have now become symbols of an implied hetero - of men is a culturally refined intellectual who appears sexual desire of the male body from a female perspec- , Song writes exten frail and feminine,” he says. “This is very different than tive,” he says. the macho idealizedThe Fragile masculinity Scholar in Western culture.” This new perspective goes beyond the world of pop In his book in Chinese culture, where stars. In fashion, designers have pushed the bounda sively about how this image is reflected in the age-old zhongwen qingwu ries of gender in their work. They are contributing to notion of an ever-blurring line that is starting to intersect with wisdom and literary talent is regarded as superior to mainstream culture, as well. physical strength and athleticism. “In casual wear, a lot of pieces are unisex, and While there are similarities between the images of rou there’s less of a distinction between male and female,” the modern-day Asian pretty boys and fragile scholars , especially the character of the past, xiaoxianrouthere is also, however, a notable difference. “The term [which translates to ‘meat’ or ‘flesh’], definitely has

12 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | CITY

says Louis Houdart, the CEO and founder of branding agency South are in a rush to Creative Capital, at his Shanghaixiaoxianrou office. “But six months later, people will only remember the brands.” This is why, Houdart says, says Jing Zhang, senior. Zhang culture sees correspondent a connection between for the the win as many brand endorsement deals as possiblexiaoxianrou – their China Morning Post freshness will expire. “They become overexposed and Young Chinese designers, she says, rising status of street boom. fashion brands in recent years and - over-commercialized over a very short time,” he says. the xiaoxianrou While this may be true for endorsement deals, are taking inspiration from a new mood of rebellion within fans feel otherwise. Last month, on Luhan’s Baidu Tieba (a the Chinese millennial generation, and playing with gender web forum frequented by his loyal fans), which has nearly identity to protest against the traditional roles of their par - 3.5 million followers, the forum moderator posted a lengthy ents’ generation. open letter. “It’s a similar case with these feminine-looking male pop She began by addressing the negative comments that had stars, with their heavy makeup,” she says. “I think young been circulating following Luhan’s relationship announcement. people embrace them as a way to rebel against the stereo She asked her fellow fans to refrain from bickering with trolls, types that an older generation of society upholds.” and urged them to continue supporting ‘Lu Lu’ during these HKU’s Song Geng sees this trend as part of a broader, Wolf Warrior 2 difficult times. more inclusive Chinese appreciation for different styles of Hundreds of replies with messages of support from fans men. “The tough-guy image still has its market,” he says, around the country came within the next few hours – many referring to the record-breaking success forever. of It’s hard to . xiaoxianrou writing even longer letters detailingxiaoxianrou why, when, where and over the summer. how they fell in love with Luhan in the first place. After all, you can’t be a This is the power of the sell yourself as little fresh meat beyond the age of 30. Time is ticking for many of today’s hottest,, whois an areeffective already way in to xiaoxianrou their mid- to late-20s. “Luhan, like any of the generate immediate buzz for a brand or a specific campaign,”

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 13 CITY | PHOTO ESSAY

Beijing-Based Photographer Documents Dongcheng’s Hutongs Before Their Transformation photos by Tan Siok Siok

hotographed by Beijing-based photographer Tan Siok Siok, the narrow hutong alleyways near Lama Temple don’t entirely exist. At least, not as shownP here. For her photo book Ren Zai Beijing, Tan accidentally created a time capsule. She captured everyday scenes along Fangjia Hutong and other nearby hutongs with her iPhone, not knowing they’d be bricked over – or as official parlance goes, ‘beautified’ – just a few months later. The Singapore-native has taken photos of her neighborhood as a “creative challenge,” daily for the past five years. As Tan tells That’s Beijing: “What fascinated me was the imper- manence of everything in the hutongs.” The past few months of construction have made Tan’s point all too clear. “It feels like the timing was fortuitous and now I’ve captured a tiny slice of history,” the photographer says. “Within the span of seven years, I’ve seen Fangjia Hutong go from a quiet alley to ‘hipster grand central’ with bars, restaurants and cafes and now back to being a quiet hutong. “I miss my old haunts that have moved out of Fangjia since the city renovation. [But] I’m curious to find out how the hutong will be transformed. I hope the efforts will be creative and imaginative and we’ll see a revital- ized hutong.” But for now, Tan’s stark black-and-white images depict the area as many of us came to know it – and are unlikely to see again.

14 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM PHOTO ESSAY | CITY

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 15 CITY | PHOTOGRAPHY

16 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM - - 17

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youjin include: borrowing money, not liking your friends’ WeChat mo friends’ WeChat not liking your money, include: borrowing +86 10 6510 9024 But this happier version of But this happier version Sometimes such disagreements are so insurmountable that your insurmountable that your so are Sometimes such disagreements of brilliant poetic expressions many are There leading to for known other things that are Besides political views, where optimistic is a more exception, there However,

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No you can’t. We are youjin. Don't call me ever again. But you are supporting an alleged rapist! How can you watch Harvey Weinstein flms?

Hyatt and Grand Hyatt names, designs and From now till 30 November related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. SHANDONG SPECIALTIES ©2017 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved. Youjin/ Yǒujìn / LIFE & STYLE

THE RACE IS ON Tales from the 2017 Singapore Grand Prix, p24

New Openings Bookstore Design Scarves p21 p22 p28 SPOTLIGHT - 19 | NOVEMBER 2017 |

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM You travel a lot for work… what are a few a few are what a lot for work… travel You essentials? travel of your a luggage, with Rimowa trip, I travel On every watch… a vintage Rolex keepall, Louis Vuitton on arrival eyes Bloodshot drops. and good eye is not a good look! Find out more at gq.com.cn What are some important menswear menswear some important What are this winter? watch to trends many are this season, and there key are Coats the newest from on offer, styles different with a a classic trench to silhouette oversized and a must-have, prints are twist. Checkered which is ‘athleisure,’ trend the most dynamic applications of sports combines the practical and modern styling. fabrics with luxury wear wish or fad do you trend Which menswear see again? never to of seeing skirts on the I am a little tired it will as I do not believe runways, menswear Obviously, trend. become a mainstream ever where examples been excellent have there the place and meaning, like it has had a true des Comme by amazing collections created and Rick Owens. Garcons - - - , GQ China . These guys were true gentlemen were . These guys style leather jacket and skinny denim jeans. and skinny leather jacket style important classic I get the more The older pieces become. Chinese designers and labels? designers Chinese Chinese emerging see so many to I am excited carving out a unique place are designers who made an have that A few world. in the fashion Zhou, Pronounce Xander impact on me are Dong store, My favorite and Uma Wang. the rise of emerging Liang, has supported selec designers and has an excellent Chinese my find something that catches tion: I always there. eye fashion favorite some of your What are at the moment? items pants, a biker- track cashmere The perfect What are some of the most memorable most memorable some of the What are in involved been shoots that you’ve photo recently? the fash include ones that I love The recent Lewis I shot with celebrity F1 driver ion story for Wall on The Great Hamilton Japanese [from and the one I shot with Akira Bar for Polo Exile] in New York’s group super Japan GQ and expe the clothes, styling loved and really produce. to made it a pleasure rience, which young favorite some of your Who are - - -

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Interview by Dominic Ngai by Interview sia acifc Editorial Director, PEARCE GRANT GRANT our brands. our brands. fashion market and it is the cornerstone for for and it is the cornerstone market fashion be a part of the brand for it to be successful. it to for be a part of the brand a place in the have print will always However, relationships. This is super important, as relationships. need to all the digital and social platforms ing media landscape, I work closely with the closely ing media landscape, I work publishers on business solutions and client over the world. This is definitely one of my one of my This is definitely the world. over parts of the job. With the ever-chang favorite overall visual image and fashion direction, direction, image and fashion visual overall me all shoots that take including photo markets, but the main influence is on the markets, oi io o i ii o i ii io oi in different responsibilities different I have What are your responsibilities as the edi responsibilities your What are is history. is history. launch of The rest G Asia Pacific. for director editorial after I launched after be part of the to asked ago, I was 10 years tor. In 1998, I was offered to join Condé Nast join Condé to offered In 1998, I was tor. for role in a marketing offered a fashion assistant role with assistant role fashion a offered edi soon became the fashion and magazine boutique owners and was quickly attracted attracted quickly and was boutique owners and I was another, One thing led to fashion. to a job as a storeman and packer at a textile at a textile and packer a job as a storeman designers and fashion I met many company. My career started in Sydney when I took I took when in Sydney started My career your career in media? in career your Can you tell us about how you became became you us about how tell you Can started you how and fashion, in interested Nast Traveller China Nast Traveller editions, and has also advised on the launch editions, and has also advised es of since 2008, Pearce is responsible for guiding for is responsible since 2008, Pearce and Japan China of the brand’s the direction The editorial director for G Asia Pacific G Asia Pacific for director The editorial almost two decades ago, Grant Pearce has Pearce decades ago, Grant almost two world. in the fashion been an important voice Since starting his media career at Condé Nast at Condé Since starting his media career STYLE RADAR

UNDER THE LENS UNDER THE LENS

DIOR X DOE / Levi’s TYPE III ANGELABABY, Truck Jacket CARINA LAU AND A longtime collaborator of DOE, Levi’s has recently partnered again with the ZHAO LIYING Shanghai-born streetwear brand to roll out a special edition of their classic TYPE III Truck Jacket (RMB1,299). “And you, what would you do for First introduced 50 years ago in love?” ask actors Angelababy, the US, this newest crossover item Carina Lau and Zhao Liying in is available in two colors – ‘indigo’ English in a short Dior video ad (blue) and ‘noir’ (black). There’s also published last month. But instead a third color – ‘peachy’ (pink) – but of generating more buzz for the it’s only for friends and family and is brand’s #DiorLoveChain campaign, not available to the public. Find these the focus of the media coverage and jackets in DOE outlets and on their of- comments from netizens are on ficial website. Zhao’s heavy accent and awkward delivery of these eight simple words. doeshanghai.com Days after the video was published, Dior pulled the ad from their official channels, but remnants of the footage can still be found on various OVERHEARD video streaming sites. https://v.qq.com/x/page/v0562c3qoz3.html “We can show the world how powerful Chinese scalpers are”

…writes one Weibo user following the news that the 2017 Victoria's Secret fashion show will take place in Shanghai, for the first time ever, at the end of this month. While it has always been an invitation-only event, one seller on Taobao is advertising tickets for RMB90,000 apiece, and claims he has six of these to sell. Taylor Swift and Harry Styles are rumored to be part of the performance lineup, and the event will be broadcast on CBS in the US on November 28. Another commenter adds, "RMB90,000 for a ticket? Guess I'll be watching this on TV instead."

20 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY DOMINIC NGAI / [email protected]

COVET ZEST FOR LIFE

The harsh reality is that most off- the-shelf skincare products are packed with harmful ingredients (yes, including the body wash you bought yesterday from Watsons). But lately we’ve noticed more and more natural products available in Beijing. Like Zest. Handmade by Beijing resident Swannie Virapin, Zest products (RMB25-75) are made from ingredients like co- conut oil and shea butter, and include lip balms, deodorant, coffee scrub and body wash. Bring in your used containers to receive a discount.

Add WeChat ID: ninisnowy

SCENE&HEARD

SUPERFIT Superfit is like a gym on ’roids: there are two boxing rings, cardio machines for days, an entire upstairs level dedicated to different COFFEE X ANTIQUE types of yoga and a meditation room, plus an ‘NBA-standard’ bas- Do we even need to write a description for this? The name says it ketball court (or so we are told by an employee). The 10,000sqm all: coffee, antiques. The space next to the old American Apparel gym is in soft opening, due to ongoing construction of the outdoor in Nali Patio (RIP) now houses old leather sofas, coffee tables and pool. But, apart from the pool, the rest of the gym looks pretty legit. cabinets. It also serves third-wave coffee, because who doesn’t Exercise classes are held daily and an onsite restaurant-cafe serves these days? Ironically for a furniture shop, the decor is pretty bare. up meals like salads (of course) and beef sirloin. Additional activi- But we’ll give them points for letting us sit on their furniture, un- ties include cosmetics classes and community events. Online, the disturbed, for as long as we wanted. gym tags itself as a “movement” and an “ideology.” You decide.

Daily, 10am-8pm; 1/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街 50 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场西路50号 (6551 9880 www.super- 81号那里花园1/F fiteast.com)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 21 LIFE & STYLE | INTERIORS

HOLE IN THE WALL The Design Behind a Fireworks-Company- Turned-Bookstore words by Dominic Ngai, photos by Zhang Zheming

Project name Reedom Bookstore Location Changsha, Hunan Building area 60sqm Designer Cao Pu Studio The brief Completed in 1992, Changsha’s Firework Mansion once served as a dormitory for workers at the now-defunct Firecrackers & Fireworks Import and Export Company. While it used to be the city’s tallest building, the 17-story structure is now overshadowed by numerous skyscrapers, and what’s left behind are retired workers and elderly residents. In 2016, a two-bedroom apartment on the top floor of the building was taken over by a group of local writers, artists and poets. They commissioned Cao Pu Studio to convert their regular haunt into an independent bookstore to share their favorite reading Reedom’s WeChat QR code is incorporated into Firework Mansion’s materials with the general public, while also acting as a place for mosaic exterior. Guests can scan the code through the windows and their neighbors to hang out. multiples openings within the walls of the store.

22 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM INTERIORS | LIFE & STYLE

Bookcases create partitions and private spaces for reading. The extra shelving allows Reedom to stock nearly 5,000 volumes of books within the 60sqm space.

The original two-bedroom apartment was built with thick concrete walls and had very little natural light coming through its tiny windows. To make it more suitable for reading, the team at Cao Pu decided to enlarge the windows, and also created several openings to allow light to flow naturally throughout the space.

Large French windows face the city, mimick- ing the view from the building’s rooftop.

Wooden frames surrounding holes in the walls also serve as desks. During summer- Wall holes also add layers and depth to the time, these holes also allow cool air from the space, making it seem more spacious and A/C to travel from one room to another. visually appealing.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 23 LIFE & STYLE | FEATURE

It’s always sunny in Singapore – especially when you get to watch the Formula One, Dominique Wong discovers.

About an hour before the race, it starts to rain. At first, just a little bit – nothing major. But, soon enough, the event staff starts hand- ing out flimsy ponchos to the spectators gathered on the terrace. “It’s fine,” a media colleague tells me, as we hastily throw on our ponchos before continuing to watch the glistening racetrack below. “This won’t affect the race.” (The back of my pass literally reads ‘RAIN OR SHINE EVENT.’) ‘The race’ is the 2017 Singapore Grand Prix. Held at the Marina Bay Street Circuit, this year marks the 10th year of the Singapore oad to the Thai Airways flight and F1 tickets, it’s a lavish trip. edition. Part of the FIA Formula One World Championship – the I discover that the 2017 Singapore Grand Prix is more than just a revered single-seat series of auto races – the Singapore event is race. It’s a massive festival spread across multiple stadiums, including the world’s inaugural Formula One night race and the first street performances by Calvin Harris and Ariana Grande – though I skip both, circuit in Asia. too far away – as well as ageless rocker Seal. And it’s a buffet and open Somehow, I, the person with the least knowledge of motor rac- bar – in the Sky Suite, anyway; which, by the way, has a great view of the ing in my F1-mad family, luck out with a round-trip business class Seal set. flight and Grand Prix Sky Suite pass, courtesy of Thai Airways. Yet, despite the international-level entertainment, and despite hav- I had been to Singapore once before and thought it humid and ing close to zero knowledge about F1 (other than a Wiki dive into rac- clean. But mention the sovereign state to others and they are quick ing legend Ayrton Senna beforehand due to family pressure), I’m most to write it off as any or all of the following: unexciting, sanitary excited about the race. It helps that I have the best view possible of the and strict. You can’t chew gum or jaywalk, they say. track right in front of me – the first corner turn. But that’s simply the price you pay for a spotless city-state. Fast fact time: The first corner is one of 23 turns on the 5.065km The Lion City is terrifically comfortable and, contrary to what Singapore track. That’s more turns than any other current Formula One Instagram would have you believe, offers plenty besides Marina circuit. Drivers are scheduled to complete 61 laps, with temperatures Bay rooftop pools. Like street hawker stalls and even Starbucks inside cockpits reaching a scorching 60 degrees Celsius. food that doesn’t suck. The nature of the street circuit means that, over a six-day period That being said, my weekend visit is strictly on the ‘fancy’ side. surrounding race day, wide swaths of central Singapore are affected From my relaxed stay at Concorde Hotel Singapore on Orchard by road closures, disrupting the daily lives of locals. When I talk to

24 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FEATURE | LIFE & STYLE

Left page: Singapore Grand Prix staff take a selfie; a spectator views the F1 from the Sky Suite Terrace; This page: Ferrari driver Räikkönen rounds the first corner; the crowd watches the race (all photos by Josh Cahill)

Singaporean friends about the Grand Prix, they complain that their is brought out to drive in front of the pack for a few laps, before commute has been doubled because of it, but then they also ask, Hamilton’s green and silver Mercedes takes the lead. “Hey, can you sneak me in?” The race continues for almost two more hours, but compared to On the Sky Suite terrace, my media friends and I make a faux bet the first exciting minutes, these are largely unremarkable. Cars lap about the winner: Either the favorite, Sebastian Vettel, four-time the track, more drivers smash out and Hamilton continues his lead – winner of this very Grand Prix, or Lewis Hamilton, who is, well, eventually winning. Lewis Hamilton, touted as the best driver of his generation. During the final lap, fireworks light up the Singapore skyline. The By the start of the race, the rain has stopped, but it doesn’t take crowd cheers on Hamilton, the Grand Prix and their hundreds (or long for the bet to implode. thousands, depending on the ticket) of dollars spent. On the first lap, just before the first corner, Ferrari driver Vettel But it’s not really the end. On the first day of the 2017 Singapore and his teammate Kimi Räikkönen collide with Red Bull’s Max event race, organizers signed a four-year contract extension with Verstappen, resulting in a barrier crash (that also collects a fourth Formula One Management, until 2021. driver). It’s painful to watch. The drivers emerge unscathed but are So, what was sold as maybe the final Singapore Grand Prix merely forced to retire from the race. turns out to be another spectacle. How grand. Afterwards, 20-year-old Verstappen says that it was Vettel’s fault (“He started squeezing me”). Video footage of the two Ferraris sand- Thai Airways provided our flights; the airline offers flights daily from Beijing wiching the Red Bull car becomes an Internet meme. The Ferrari to Singapore via Bangkok. Our hotel stay was courtesy of Concorde Hotel team blames Verstappen. Yet race officials clear all three from fault. Singapore, the airline's hotel partner, providing guest rooms for cabin crews of Thai Airways in Singapore. Post-crash, a safety car (I had never heard of this term before)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 25 LIFE & STYLE | FEATURE

PHOTO BY SHAWN ONG FORMULA ONE x ASIA If you want to catch the F1 in Asia but aren’t so keen on BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX Singapore, here are your other options (at the time of writing): Bahrain International Circuit: 2004- 2009; 2011-present When 201 dates are April 13-15. Where CHINESE GRAND PRIX Sakhir, Bahrain. Did you know Shanghai International Circuit: 2004-present The Bahrain Grand Prix was the first Formula When One Grand Prix to be held in the Middle East. 2018 dates are April 6-8. The race was cancelled in 2011 due to the Where 2011 Bahraini protests. Shanghai, China. Did you know ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX It was the most expensive Formula One circuit facility at completion in 2004 (US$240 million). It’s Yas Marina Circuit: 2009-present since been surpassed by Abu Dhabi (US$6 billion). When 201 dates are November 23-25. Where Yas Island, Abu Dhabi, UAE. Did you know JAPANESE GRAND PRIX PHOTO SUPPLIED BY CONCORDE HOTEL SINGAPORE The inaugural race was Formula One’s Suzuka Circuit: 2003-present first ever day-night race, with a 5pm When start (local time). 2018 dates are October 5-7. Where AZERBAIJAN GRAND PRIX Suzaka City, Mie Prefecture, Japan. Did you know Baku City Circuit: 2017-present The Suzuka Circuit is one of the most iconic in When Formula One due to its storied history: The long- 2018 dates are April 27-29. standing feud between Brazilian hero Ayrton Senna Where and Frenchman Alain Prost, both considered the best Baku, Azerbaijan. at the time, played out multiple times at the venue. Did you know Its placement as one of the last races of the season The inaugural race at the circuit, in 2016, was named the European Grand means that it is often a title-decider for racers. Prix. According to a statement last December by Baku City Circuit executive director Arif Rahimov: “We wanted to position our country as a part of Europe and to showcase our European mentality to the world. [However] we now feel it is the right time to rename our race.” Note: Azerbaijan is a ‘transcontinental’ country, as it’s located in both Europe and Asia.

26 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MID-AUTUMN DELIGHTS AT OAKWOOD RESIDENCE DAMEI BEIJING

Beijing’s premier serviced residence offers more than just luxury housing. Last month the Residence’s long term guests enjoyed a festive Appreciation Dinner. In addition to getting to know their neighbors the guests were treated to a tea ceremony, traditional arts and crafts as well as a lucky draw. Live Chinese music set the mood. LIFE & STYLE | FASHION

Complete Your Winter Look and Stay Comfortably Warm compiled by Dominic Ngai

Scarves can be a utilitarian accessory to keep you warm during the winter, but they can also spice up your look. From classic to playful, here are a few of our top picks.

FOR HER

1 Burberry, RMB3,900 burberry.cn

2 Gap, RMB299 gap.cn

3 H&M, RMB99.90 hm.com

4 Louis Vuitton, RMB6,150 louisvuitton.cn

5 Beams, RMB890 2 3 beams.co.jp

28 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM FASHION | LIFE & STYLE

6 10

7 9

FOR HIM

6 Gap, RMB249 gap.cn

7 Gucci, RMB3,750 Gucci.cn

8 H&M, RMB149 hm.com

9 Beams, RMB1,780 beams.co.jp

10 Louis Vuitton, RMB4,750 louisvuitton.cn

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 29 ARTS

ART DECO A look closer at Shanghai’s art deco architecture, p38

DJ Josh Cheon New Music Pick of Six p36 p37 p40 DRUMROLL

PAUL VAN DYK The Grammy-winning DJ Returns after a Near-Death Injury interview by Erica Martin

One of the world’s most recognized DJs, Paul pop EDM music you hear these days. I think Looking back on your career, how does van Dyk practically invented trance music. fans of trance will always be attracted to the i o n on o i He then went on to win a Grammy and the primal energy of the music and uplifting, in- o in innion o o o No. 1 spot on DJ Mag’s Top 100 DJ List twice. clusive nature of trance shows. ou in o in in But at a performance in The Netherlands last changed since you were starting out? year, van Dyk fell through a gap in the stage n u o o ii n and suffered severe spinal and brain injuries, Will we see this in the visuals at your I am very humbled, because when I first putting him out of commission for months. China shows? started there were literally a couple hundred We caught up with PvD before his first post- people in all of Berlin who appreciated this recovery China tour. A lot of the visuals – in terms of the music music! I never expected to play outside of videos and artwork – are very futuristic and Germany, let alone around the world. This Tell us a bit about your upcoming album, revolve around the theme of finding your was such a niche genre when I first started From Then On. How does it connect to your utopia. The album is very interconnected my career. I don’t think anyone would have time recovering from injury? with my new live show, AEON by Paul van expected it to grow into the massive com- Dyk. You’ll have to check out the show to see mercialized industry that it is today. While This is the most personal album I have made how it all works together! But basically, it is I’m grateful for the success I’ve had, I think in my career. All these songs are close to my about learning how to let go in order to find I’d still be making music and DJing even if heart and were made in the months follow- happiness. electronic music never took off like it had. I ing the accident. There was a time when I do this for the love of the music rather than wasn’t sure if I’d walk again, let alone make What do you think about the gap between the fame that comes along with it. music, so the joy I experienced in the sessions EDM shows at major festivals versus more while making these tracks was like none underground electronic music? Sun Nov 12,9pm; tickets TBD; Elements Club, 58 other. There was no A&R manager pushing Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场西路58号 certain songs or a particular direction for this Well I think it’s more than just a divide be- (tickets via www.gopiaowu.com) album. Instead it’s a collection of songs that tween the underground and the mainstream. are extremely meaningful to me. I hope my When I first started my career, electronic fans enjoy listening to it as much as I enjoyed music was always part of the underground. making it. Today, what is considered ‘electronic dance music’ is essentially pop music that bor- What is it about trance music that causes rows elements of electronic music, and is so many people to become lifelong fans? very mainstream. I think the line between electronic and pop music has been blurred, To me, trance is one of purest and most eu- and so has the line between underground phoric types of music. I’ve always made high- and mainstream. There are varying degrees tempo, melodic electronic music throughout to whether music is electronic or pop, main- my career. From Then On is certainly much stream or underground – it’s not as black and more of a true trance record than a lot of the white as it once was.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 31 COLLAGE

CANVASSED COMING SOON Stephen Chow, Tsui Hark, Ang Lee Named Most Powerful Filmmakers in China

NOVEMBER Last month, popular WeChat platform Yiqipaidianying released a list ranking the 100 10 most ‘powerful’ filmmakers in China. In order to decide on the rankings, the publica- tion analyzed each filmmaker’s score on major domestic film rating websites like Murder on the Orient Express Douban, their media coverage and their box office totals from 2005 onward. Stephen Chow landed at the top, still riding off the success of 2016’s The Mermaid, while Murder on the Orient Express is one of Agatha Vietnamese-Chinese director Tsui Hark and Taiwan’s Ang Lee took the second and Christie’s most famous novels, featuring iconic third spots. Other highly ranked directors included Jiang Wen (No. 4), Feng Xiaogang of detective Hercule Poirot. Kenneth Branagh directs I Am Not Madam Bovary (No. 5), Zhang Yimou of Red Sorghum and The Great Wall (No. and stars as Poirot in this sumptuous, slightly 6), Chen Kaige of Farewell My Concubine (No. 7), and Wu Jing of Wolf Warrior 2 (No. campy film adaptation, sporting his best Belgian 10). Noticeably absent from the top 10 were several directors who have massive fol- accent and the most dramatic silver mustache ever lowings in the West, like Wong Kar-wai, who clocks in at No. 19, and Jia Zhangke, who depicted onscreen. Penelope Cruz, Johnny Depp, is far lower on the list at No. 61. Daisy Ridley and Judi Dench also play some of the passengers Poirot suspects of having committed murder on a luxurious train trip across Europe. Scheduled for a simultaneous release with the US, this film marks the fourth time in which Christie’s novel has been adapted for the screen since it was Hao first published in 1934. China’s film festival scene is booming, and the latest addition is the Pingyao Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon Festival, which runs through November 4. Founded by leading Sixth Generation filmmaker Jia Zhangke and marketed as China’s answer to Cannes, the festival will be held in Pingyao, the UNESCO World Heritage Site in Jia’s home province, Shanxi. Ang Lee gave Jia permission to name the festival after his celebrated film, and there will be “Crouching Tiger” and “Hidden Dragon” segments of the program, which focus on genre NOVEMBER films and emerging directors, respectively. 17 Justice League Justice League is the latest celebrity-packed super- Bu Hao hero blockbuster and the fifth installment in the DC After the Academy of Motion Picture Arts Extended Universe. The film picks up after the trag- and Sciences announced last month that Wolf ic events at the end of Batman v Superman: Dawn of Warrior 2 was China’s official Oscar contender Justice (no spoilers, though if you watch the Justice for the Best Foreign Language Film category, League trailer you’ll get some), and sees Wonder debate raged online. Many argued that the Woman (Gal Godot) and Batman (Ben Affleck) as- commercial action film lacks the level of artistic semble a team of ‘metahumans’ including the Flash merit needed for consideration, while some (Ezra Miller) and Aquaman (Jason Momoa) to take viewers said it makes sense that the nation’s down Steppenwolf (Ciarn Hinds), an immortal highest-grossing film of all time would be put from the nightmarish planet of Apokolips who forth as the best. The official Oscar nominees leads an army of parademons. will be announced on January 23.

32 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY ERICA MARTIN / bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

北京上海

FRIDAY SATURDAY SUNDAY

瞪大眼 DIRTY FINGERS GIG POSTER OF THE MONTH 老阿姨 Chicago TV dance show Chic-a-Go-Go visits 0ME"VOUJFT Ugly China for the first time ever this month. The popular show is inspired by American Girls Bandstand and is known for featuring a range of artists and dancers. For the Beijing leg of the tour, the group stop off at School Bar for a live punk dance party featuring punk legends Subs, Demerit and the Sino Hearts.

Fri Nov 10, 9.30pm; RMB80; School Bar (see Listings for details)

Our favorite tracks from artists playing in Beijing this month. For full nightlife and gig listings, visit www.thatsmags.com

‘Still Life’ (2016) ‘Always Like This’ ‘Tiwàyyen’ (2017) Mechatok (2013) Tinariwen HVOB Straight up classical (the pro- Rock ’n roll never sounded so ducer is classically trained) Duo Her Voice Over Boys’ cover desert – or so good – in this until just after the one-minute of the Bombay Bicycle Club’s rollicking blues-infused track mark, when it turns into a clas- track is less frenetic indie by the Grammy-award-winning sic techno-house track. band, more synth-infused and Mali band. chill. ‘It’s Only Real’ (2015) ‘Pelican’s Flight’ Denis Sulta ‘Hey Moon!’ (2009) (2016) Molly Nilsson Baikal A deceptively simple-sounding ou u The Swedish singer’s love song Ten minutes of deep house from Glasgow: Growling snares to the moon sounds like it is layered with electronics showcase a moody undercur- could’ve been a track off The – equal parts heavy, sinister rent that’s both exultant and O.C. with its charming lyrics and majestic, and in that ominous. and folk-tinged vocals. order.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 33 ARTS | MUSIC

The Spotify bio for most bands is fairly unin- their aesthetic, and perform wearing tradi- ning act. The group won a Grammy for their spiring. Guitarist X met Vocalist Y at private tional Tuareg clothing, though some mem- 2012 album Tassili, has played major festivals school, where they bonded over a mutual bers have been known to don leather jackets the world over and collaborated with every- love for skinny jeans and distortion. But for and jeans when not performing. Though one from TV on the adio to Kurt Vile. the musicians of Tinariwen, their origins are a few of the members have achieved fame Even so, the band is still largely catego- more meaningful than that: They are a story individually – mainly Ibrahim Ag Alhabib for rized and oversimplified by Westerners as of survival. being the founder of the band – the group is ‘world music,’ an umbrella term applied to a Formed in 1979 in Algeria by a group a musical collective who regularly introduce vast swath of different genres – essentially of Tuareg musicians from Mali, Tinariwen new players and rotate their roster. The same any type of music that’s developed outside began as a local collective that performed group of musicians has never toured twice, the Western world (the band’s Grammy at weddings and gatherings of friends while which keeps the emphasis on the music award was won in the Best World Music much of the Tuareg community was in exile above all. Album category). “World music doesn’t really or in refugee camps due to the political cli- While ‘desert blues’ is used to describe mean anything to us,” says Alhousseyni. “This mate in Mali. them most often to the outside world, is just some label music industry people put This community named the band Kel Tinariwen describe their brand of melanchol- on non-Occidental music.” Tinariwen, or ‘Desert Boys’ in the Taureg lan- ic, guitar-driven blues-rock as ‘assouf,’ a style It makes sense, then, that the musicians of guage Tamasheq, which they later shortened of Tuareg music based in nostalgia. Similar Tinariwen are looking forward to debuting in to just Tinariwen, or ‘Deserts.’ Their music, concepts exist in musical cultures around the China, another culture often misunderstood low-key and folksy while also emotionally world, according to Alhousseyni. “Assouf can by the Western world. and politically charged, came to be described be compared to Saudade in Brazilian or Fado “It is a great honor for us,” says as ‘desert blues.’ in Portugal,” he says. “It’s a feeling of nos- Alhousseyni about the chance to tour here. In the 90s, during a more stable political talgia about the old days when the Tuaregs “We have never been to China before, and it climate for Mali, Tinariwen began focusing were the free people of the desert, without is a culture we’re not familiar with, so we are on music full time, catching the attention first borders.” looking forward to meeting people there.” If of the French music community, and then, The delicate melancholy of assouf evokes nothing else, it’s an opportunity to spread gradually the rest of the world. strong feelings in anyone who misses home their music, which honors the universal con- “On the one hand, we are influenced by or a bygone era, despite the fact that the cepts of home, freedom and nostalgia. old traditional Tuareg music such as imzad, group sings primarily in Tamasheq, a lan- tinde [a Tuareg bow instrument and drum] guage few can speak outside the Sahara Thu Nov 16, 8pm; RMB260 (advance), RMB300 and traditional Arab music,” says Tinariwen region. This universality has played a major (door); Tango 3F/Hit FM Live, 3/F, 79 Hepingli Xijie, bandmember Abdallah Ag Alhousseyni. role in Tinariwen’s growth from a community Dongcheng 东城区和平里西街79号糖果3层 (tickets via yoopay.cn) “But, on the other hand, we are influenced group to an internationally award-win- by American blues and rock musicians like Robert Johnson, Jimi Hendrix and Mark Knopfler.” Tinariwen make a point to keep their culture central to

34 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS

The Forefathers of Desert Blues on Nostalgia, ‘World Music’ and Their First Foray Through the Mainland by Erica Martin

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 35 ARTS | MUSIC JOSH CHEON The DJ on Chasing Musicians and Catharsis by Erica Martin

“Dancing is cathartic, and when you throw in a dramatic vocal that people can sing along to, it becomes church”

Josh Cheon has always run a decade or two It’s often tricky to track down the artists ducer who deals in dark, otherworldy disco behind schedule. “It is so hard to know Cheon wants to re-release, many of whom are and who will be performing with Cheon dur- exactly where it all started,” he says. “But now much older and no longer work in music. ing his China tour at Beijing and Shanghai’s when I was young, my dad had a huge record But the same stamina that helped him get his Dada. collection that I would always get into. So I brother to memorize Cure albums by color “I like melody and rhythms and have been grew up listening to lots of classic rock and has served him well in this arena. listening to music with my ear tuned in since other music that was not of the time. Then as “It took over five years to get a response I was a kid,” Cheon says. “Dancing can be ca- a teenager, I was listening to 80s music in the from Jordi Guber of Velodrome, Metropakt, thartic, and when you throw in a dramatic vo- 90s – while my younger brother was into the Lineas Aereas,” he says, citing a recent exam- cal that people can sing along to and remem- Breeders, Offspring and all those indie bands ple of a long and laborious artist chase. “I was ber easily, it becomes church – the freedom to at the time, I was buying The Cure cassettes, in Barcelona for a week, renting an apartment express yourself through music.” which I would make my brother memorize on the same street as his business office. I Cheon first dropped into Shanghai in 2013. by album color.” walked five minutes down the block and in- Since that time, he’s incorporated tracks from Cheon’s fascination specifically with 0s troduced myself. I was in total disbelief that I a few contemporary Chinese producers into synth and goth rock planted the seeds for was finally talking to him.” his sets, including Tzusing and Mr. Ho. For the launch of his San Francisco-based record Cheon’s DJ sets span a wide range of influ- this month’s trip, he hopes to reach back a label Dark Entries, which re-releases rare ences and sounds, but they are always irre- few decades and find some vintage Chinese and out-of-print albums from the period. sistibly danceable. He’s also one fourth of gay records for his collection. Should they make He named the label after the 192 song by nightlife collective Honey Soundsystem, who their way into his Dada sets, it’s all the better English band Bauhaus, the track he and his are known for throwing some of the most vi- for the dance floor. friends listened to over and over as they brant and refreshingly inclusive queer parties drove around his native New Jersey as teen- in San Francisco. Cheon’s frequent companion Fri Dec 1, 10pm; Dada (see Listings for details) agers. is Honey Soundsystem cohort Bezier, a pro-

36 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM MUSIC | ARTS FOR THE RECORD Three New Homegrown Albums on Our Radar This Month by Erica Martin

VANISHING CINEMA by Hyph11e As a core member of Shanghai electronic music collective Genome 6.66MBP, Hyph11e’s debut EP marks an important moment for the local club scene. She named the album after a dream that inspired her to quit her day job and devote herself to music. The opening moments of ‘Black Pepper’ are comprised of solemn gongs followed by a single animalistic whoop. Then a slow pendulum of bass starts descending, punctuated by occasional bullet-fast beats. The futuristic ‘Speak to Me ’ featuring Sharon Stewart, is another memorable track, blending mumbling female vocals, with glitches, beeps and one notable hawk shriek. All of the tracks explore sound. While bass-heavy, they are slow and sometimes sparse, making use of the contrast between silence and grinding industrial bass. emixes by Tzusing, M.E.S.H. and Kid Antoine round things out by orienting the tracks more toward the dance floor.

Listen at https://svbkvlt.bandcamp.com

WE ARE SHANGHAI VOL. 5 by Various Artists The fifth installment of this Shanghai music showcase founded by expat musician Ivan Belcic was compiled by members of thrash metal band Hitobashira and pop-rockers Pinball City. At 40 tracks, it’s an exhausting listen, but the compilation gains strength from the vein-bulging metal, dubstep, hip-hop, pop-rock and country. ou never know quite what you’re going to hear next. Some of the tracks we found most memorable include ueen of Shanghai and MC Jado’s dubreggae banger ‘aga Muffin Soldier,’ Ugly Girls’ snarky punk track ‘Fuck Boss’ and ‘Edible Clouds,’ Parachutes on Fire’s breezy ode to edi- bles. The most apparent takeaway from We Are Shanghai Vol. 5 is that this particular slice of Shanghai’s music scene is as pointedly male as ever, but if you listen closely, there are more diverse and interesting roots gradually spreading.

Listen at https://svbkvlt.bandcamp.com

YISHUNQIANJI by Tzusing Tzusing’s Stockholm Syndrome club night at The Shelter in Shanghai have led to him becoming perhaps the city’s most famous underground DJ and producer. Now based between Shanghai and Taipei, Tzusing dropped his latest release last month on Dubai-based label Bedouin ecords, which also released a record by erstwhile Shanghai producer Pan Daijing earlier this year. On the opening track, ‘Flow State,’ featuring Stockholm Syndrome co-founder Illsee, a loop of zombified throat singing is punctuated by a driving industrial beat and nasal droning. Tzusing is rather adroit at coming up with evocative song names, and ‘Shame’ has a reverber- ating hum that for some reason calls to mind that exact emotion. Several great moments take a left turn just when you think you’ve figured the track out, like in ‘ ’ (or ‘Mr. Smug’), when shrill, creepy-crawly instrumentation enters about a minute in. As is always the case with Tzusing, every track on the album would invigorate a dance floor.

Listen at https://bedouinrecords.bandcamp.com/album/tzusing

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 37 ARTS | BOOKS

The Hungarian Architect Behind Shanghai’s Iconic Art Deco Buildings by Ned Kelly

38 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM VIRTUAL REALITYBOOKS | ARTS

Hungarian photographer and filmmaker Nicky Almasy, based in Shanghai from 2006-2016, recently documented the build- Do you have a favorite Hudec building? ings designed by his countryman: architect Laszlo Hudec, Of course, and it’s the Park Hotel. It has this gothic, Art Deco who was active in the city from 191 to 1945. The result is his dignity that is just irresistible. I remember back in 2006, new book, Hudec – and some stunning photos of Shanghai’s when I moved to Shanghai and I didn’t know anything about iconic Art Deco buildings. We caught up with Almasy to find the city or its architecture, that was the first building that I out more about the project. stopped and marveled at. What was the most challenging part of shooting for this book? Are there any buildings you wish you could bring back? We knew from the beginning that this was not going to be All the ones that have been knocked down! There was a easy. Some of these buildings have been closed, and even the church where a Hilton is today. I mean, of course, every city ones that are open – functioning now as banks, hotels, resi- needs a Hilton, but why don’t you build it a block down if dential buildings – are not easy to photograph from the in- there’s a church in your way? Destroying old treasures is un- side. You can’t just walk into a bank and start snapping away. forgivable. You need permits, which we all know, in China, are very difficult to get. There are a lot of questions asked and you need a What does it mean to you as a Hungarian that a country- good reason and, more importantly, good contacts. man did so much to build the Shanghai we know today? It means a lot and it made Shanghai special to me from the very beginning. I’m proud of doing this book. I always say that I’m happy that a Hungarian workaholic got to document another Hungarian workaholic’s work. I always loved Hudec’s architecture and it was the perfect full stop to my Shanghai years.

Hudec by Nicky Almasy is out now with the help of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade of Hungary and the Consulate General of Hungary in Shanghai

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 39 ARTS | PICK OF SIX

Group exhibition, ‘27’ Through Nov 28; Pékin Fine Arts Carlos Garaicoa, ‘Bestiary’ Through Dec 17; Galleria Continua

Koh Sang Woo, ‘Wild in Blue’ Through Nov 12; Asian Art Works

For gallery information visit www.thatsmags.com/beijing Xin Yunpeng, untitled Through Nov 12; de Sarthe Gallery

Barthélémy Toguo, ‘Fragile Body’ Through Dec 31; Hadrien de Montferrand

Nimue, ‘If You Ask Me’ Through Nov 21; MOUart Gallery

40 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM ADVERTORIAL

ARRAIL DENTAIL ouner oert ou eects on entristry Success at Annual Golf Tournament

“He went to Wharton the same time Trump did” says Dr. Denis Kinane, with a big laugh. “Oh, a few years later,” replies obert Zou, smiling. “I’m not that old.” As evident in their affable rapport, Kinane and Zou are longtime friends. And now they’re happily reunited, at Arrail Dental’s Annual Golf Tournament, at Chaoyang’s Tian'an Holiday Golf Club. With a theme of “Wave Hands, Let Love Fly,” the tournament aims to raise awareness for the oral diseases that affect orphans and disabled children in China. Zou and Kinane enjoy a day dedicated to charity and celebration in Beijing’s beautiful early-fall weather, and are happy to joke with one another at the occasion. But don’t let that fool you – when it comes to oral health, both men are very serious. And they have the credentials to prove it. Zou is the founder of Arrail group, China’s advanced dentistry chain, with over 90 clinics across the country in 15 different cities. The company consists of two popular brands, Arrail Dental and ytime Dental, known for their high-quality services and international standards. (Says Zou, “We don’t disclose the names, but we have many first-tier celebrities at our dental clinics!”) Zou is nothing less than a pioneer of China’s dental industry. After graduating with an MBA from the University of Pennsylvania’s prestigious Wharton School of Business and working in Hong Kong, he returned to the Mainland in 1999. At that time, dental clinics of Arrail’s standard were simply nonexistent in China. Since then, demand in China has grown massively for boutique dentistry – and much of that has to do with Zou’s tremendously successful business. Says Dr. Kinane, Dean of the University of Pennsylvania’s School of Dental Medicine, Zou’s contributions to his field are remarkable. Kinane, along with some of his dentistry school colleagues, travels frequently to China to make sure Arrail is always up-to-speed with American dental practices. But, he says of China’s dental industry: “Now we’re teaching them, but one day, they’ll be teaching us.” Both Kinane and Zou believe strongly dentistry is about more than pretty smiles. This philosophy drives Arrail group, who approach oral health from a holistic approach. As Kinane explains: “It’s holistic in two ways. Of course, we make the patient feel like a special customer, but more than that – it’s about a holistic approach to health. Oral health is so important, and it’s important to prevent oral cancer. Both most of all, says Kinane: “When you look healthy, you not only look great, but you feel great.”

For more information about Arrail Dental, or to book an appointment visit www.arrail-dental.com or call their National Hotline at 400 880 1900 words by Noelle Mateer, additional reporting by Vivian Liu, Qinxin Lu, Iris Wang, Jocelyn Richards, Sky Thomas Gidge and Yuka Hayashi; graphics by Iris Wang How One Company is Selling Dreams and Dish Soap in China

43 ui Ning posts Moments on WeChat five times per day. Sometimes they’re re-shares, taken from her friends’ timelines. Sometimes they’re photos of her with colleagues at a cooking class sponsored by eSpring® ®®®® Water Purifier. Other days it’s a selfie with the latest shade of ARTISTRY®® lipstick. If she’s really excited about something, she’ll post photos of it multiple times in one day, like with the ARTISTRY® Intensive Skincare Advanced Vitamin C & HA Treatment. I often receive personal messages from Cui, though I sus- pect they’re also being sent to others. Some days, she drops a line to say “nihao” or “you’re great!” Once, she wrote: “Buy RMB1,500 worth of Amway products, get one package of sanitary pads for free.” No matter what, her grating online presence is about one thing: American mega-corporation Amway. But Cui is more than a fan. She’s a convert and an evangelist. She is, in Amway speak, an Independent Business Owner (IBO). Amway sells soap, vitamins and makeup, but what it really sells is the American dream. Through seminars, motivational speakers and aggressive recruiting, the company tells any- body who will listen how they, too, can become rich – by purchasing an inventory of Amway products and working as an independent salesperson. It’s what Amway stands for: the American Way. The corporation is a pioneer in the direct-selling industry (sometimes known as ‘door-to-door sales’) for its ‘multilevel marketing’ (MLM) structure. In an MLM, sales reps can make money from selling soaps, sure – but they can make even more from recruiting more sales reps. This has led to widespread aggressive recruiting tactics that lead some critics to call Amway a pyramid scheme, or worse, a cult. In the US, a 1979 court ruling determined that Amway was legal. China, though, did not: after Amway and other MLMs entered the Mainland market in the 90s, hundreds of local copycat schemes exploded – causing widespread riots when they later collapsed. In 1998, the government responded by banning MLMs outright, calling the worst of them “evil cults, secret societies and superstitious and lawless activities.” Amway was banned for years, but China’s 2005 ‘anti-MLM’ regulations, ironically, allowed the company to muscle its way back in. By codifying China's definition of an MLM, the regulations

Above: the Amway Experience Center in Guangzhou; Right: the Amway Experience Center in Beijing; Opposite Page: displays in Beijing's ‘Amway Culture’ hall

44 laid out all the steps Amway could take to not be considered one. And so, to sidestep its MLM status (while still operating as an unabashed MLM scheme in nearly every other country it sells in), Amway opened brick- “This is and-mortar stores and and tweaked its payment scheme. Then, Amway stepped up its guanxi game. The company established the Amway Charity Foundation, working in collaboration with the Shanghai Charitable Fund remarkable. China and the Communist Youth League of China. It sponsored China’s team at the 2012 Olympics. And it sent hundreds of Chinese officials to study is the frst country public management at Harvard (and tour Amway’s headquarters in Ada, Michigan) in a program called ‘Amway Fellows.’ Today, China is by far the company’s largest market. Still, Amway’s that appears to rocky history in China impacts its image – and now, Amway has in- vested heavily in massive, museum-like Amway Experience Centers, currently opening in cities nationwide. Shenzhen’s Amway Experience be a showing a Center is still under construction, but last year, a Center was unveiled in nearby Guangzhou. Shanghai’s 7,500spm Experience Center opened in 2014. Beijing’s first Amway Experience Center, meanwhile – a steel willingness not to and glass behemoth in the center of Sanlitun, the capital’s cosmopoli- tan heart – debuted just this spring. let this ravage its Designed to distance the company from the toxic ‘MLM’ tag, these couldn’t be timed better. China is currently experiencing a fresh wave of illegal pyramid schemes, and the government is threatening another nation” MLM crackdown.

45 “Only a good, big, established company would receive that kind of Above: Rich & Jay, the cafe in the Amway Experience Center; Below: Home Living, a kitchen space showcasing attention, and have other Amway products; people be jealous of it. Some people are salty”

46 “Hello,” says a woman the minute we step inside the Beijing says this was an astute observation. Amway Experience Center, whisking us away on a tour of the “Very little product is actually moved through MLMs,” he ex- complex. Not that we asked for a tour. This is simply what hap- plains. “If MLMs went away tomorrow, it would have no effect at pens – Amway representatives wait for visitors, greet them en- all in terms of getting products to the public.” thusiastically, and before they know it, they’re 90 minutes deep in After all, he says, it’s not like China would run out of all- Amway lore. purpose floor cleaners. Instead, he believes that Yang and his It’s a high-wattage, multi-sensory experience, bounc- colleagues understood that MLMs have “very little economic ing throughout the building’s many display rooms: ‘SMART value, but an incredible social purpose.” Their real product isn’t SHOPPING,’ where all-purpose floor cleaners are displayed makeup or supplements – it’s hope. behind plexiglass like precious objects in a gallery; the eSpring®® “People invest in MLMs because they see them as an alterna- room, where short films about Amway’s air and water purifiers tive to low-paying jobs, debt and the rising cost of education,” he play to a Pirates of the Caribbean-style soundtrack; and the says. “They believe they can truly get rich.” Nutrilite hall, where an actual John Deere tractor sits among arti- On the second floor of the Experience Center, the tone of our ficial flowers in an ode to Nutrilite’s organic-farm origins. (Nutrilite tour changes. Our guide is no longer selling Amway products, is a brand of nutritional supplements Amway took over in 1994.) but the Amway lifestyle. We watch a slideshow of Amway China Here we gaze upon a bronze statue of the Nutrilite founder, and staffers on vacation in Alaska, taking selfies with glaciers from peruse black-and-white photos of his time spent studying in the deck of their cruise ship. Here we learn the benefits of life as Shanghai in the 1910s and 20s. “Nutrilite and China have a rich an Amway employee – top sellers get all-expenses-paid vaca- history together,” says our guide. tions to destinations like Bali and Australia. Then our guide raises Flattering depictions of nondescript Western men are every- the stakes. where in the Experience Center, but especially within ‘AMWAY “Would you like to meet our manager?” she asks. Yes, we CULTURE.’ After watching a short film about founders Rich DeVos’ would. She whisks us downstairs, where we promptly shake and Jay Van Andel’s perfectly average middle-class upbringings, hands with him. I begin to ask if he has time to answer some we come across a photo of former US President George W. Bush, questions, but he’s too busy leading us elsewhere. This onstage at Beijing’s own Wukesong Arena. In 2015, Amway flew choreographed dance takes us to Rich & Jay, a cafe named for Bush to Beijing to speak at Amway China’s 20th anniversary. Over Amway’s founders, where he seats us by a massive poster of 12,000 Amway IBOs were in attendance. Bush and Chairman the two men. Their faces are everywhere – on the shop’s logo, Steve Van Andel spoke onstage about leadership. on each styrofoam cup, on the Starbucks-style merch that pairs “The US government likes Amway very much,” says our guide. their logo (faces) with icons of Beijing. “I’ll send you a picture later of Betsy, on WeChat.” A personality cult is a weird marketing strategy for such Betsy DeVos is the wife of Doug DeVos, Amway’s current normal-looking dudes, I think. But they are rich, white, corporate co-CEO and the son of its founder. The billionaire couple have American men, and perhaps that is reason enough for many to donated roughly USD$200 million to Republican causes and adore them. campaigns over the years. In December, Trump named her as his Here is where we first meet Cui Ning. Cui is writing down a pick for Secretary of Education. series of numbers on a sheet of white paper, and the numbers This, of course, is largely skipped over in an Amway Center keep getting larger and larger. These are our fortunes, and tour. (At a tour of the Experience Center in Guangzhou, mean- they’re growing the more we invest in Amway. Our That’s intern, while, guide Sun Rong says, “One of the founders was definitely Vivian, turns to me and whispers: “That’s a lot of money.” influential in the Republican Party ® in finance... or something.”) That money can be ours, Cui says, if we sign on to become Anti-pyramid scheme expert Robert FitzPatrick knows Independent Business Owners today. Once we’re IBOs, we can Amway’s lobbying practices by heart. The activist has been buy Amway products at wholesale prices, and then sell those fighting against the company – which he personally considers a at retail prices to our friends, family members, colleagues and pyramid scheme – for decades. So when China banned direct WeChat contacts. The more we buy, the more we can sell. We’ll selling in 1998, he was thrilled. be rich in no time. (Elsewhere in the world, IBOs make money by “I thought, ‘This is remarkable,’” he says. “‘This is the first coun- recruiting more people to sign up, and then making commission try that appears to be a showing a willingness not to let these off their sales. But that’s unabashed multilevel marketing, which [MLMs] ravage its nation.’” is illegal in China, so Cui can’t do that. She can, however, get a In the run-up to China’s 2005 anti-MLM legislation, Chinese bonus for signing us up.) officials allegedly sought out FitzPatrick’s expertise. He met The two men at our table, both in their 20s, sign up imme- with professor Yang Qian and his translator in Washington, DC. diately. Then Cui turns to Vivian and asks, “How old are you?” FitzPatrick says the professor was consulting for Chinese She’s 17. officials drafting the 2005 regulations. (That’s was unable to “Oh, when’s your 18th birthday?” she asks. “You can join independently confirm this.) then.” When I look at the other tables in Rich & Jay, everyone is “It appears to us that MLMs have very little affect economi- having this same conversation. The brand-new Dunkin Donuts cally,” said Yang through his translator, at the meeting. FitzPatrick next door is empty.

47 Former US President George W. Bush poses onstage at Beijing's Wukesong Arena for Amway China's 20th Anniversary, in 2015 “We have nothing to do with politics. We’re just a company”

48 “We have nothing to do with politics. We’re just a company”

49 “People invest because they see it as an alternative to low-paying jobs, debt and the higher cost of education. They believe they can truly get rich”

Clockwise, from top left: Ouyang Wenzhang, the director of China's Direct Selling Network; Beijing's new Amway Experience Center; a display about the history of Nutrilite; rooms in the Amway Experience Center where Nutrilite employees offer health exams and fitness classes to Amway members

Dong Chao, a blogger from Shanghai who writes regularly about Amway, says his father has been an IBO for decades, but hasn’t made any profit. “The worst part, for me, is that their sinister intentions are disguised by benevolent appearances,” he tells That’s. Still, Dong’s father believes in the American Way: “He sees himself as the deliverer of health. And the friendly atmosphere in Amway’s classes makes him happy. It makes him want to stay in it. Because of those meetings, he’s always absent from home.” It’s this devotion to the brand over all reason – even after years of no success – that leads critics to brand Amway as a cult. Indeed, IBOs regularly gather at Experience Centers to listen to motivational speeches, not unlike sermons, about the value of hard work. Last month, Cui posted a photo of someone who’d experienced a miracle: The week’s speaker was an old, handicapped woman who, after attending a Nutrilite talk on healthy living, found herself able to walk again (for five minutes at a time, anyway). “[Amway] evokes a reaction from people that is like religious fervor,” says FitzPatrick. “It operates like a cult. “That was the big concern about pyramid schemes in ’98, when they shut them all down. It was a concern from a security point of view. It caused riots.” This past July, protests erupted in Beijing. Hundreds of people, some from far away, demonstrated against a government crackdown on Shanxinhui, an MLM that it has since been branded in state media as a ‘business cult.’ Since then, the State Administration for Industry and Commerce announced it will work with the Ministry of Public Security to further combat pyramid schemes in China, which are on the rise. Police investigated over 2,000 pyramid scheme cases in 2016, nearly 20 percent more than in 2015, according to Xinhua. A September New York Times article connects this rise in illegal pyramid selling to China’s slowing economy. But Ouyang Wenzhang, director of China’s national Direct Selling Network, believes otherwise.

50 “This is not related to unemployment, ing to do with politics,” she tells me. “We’re just a company.” because in China, unemployment is not Later that afternoon, I finally get an official statement: “In very high,” he says a rich, slow Beijing China, pyramid fraud is called ‘MLM.’ Amway is not a pyra- accent. “According to government mid scheme.” Included in the statement are a list of reasons departments, the unemployment rate why: Amway’s ultimate goal is the sale of products; to join is 4 to 4.3 percent. In 2012, America Amway, IBOs do not have to pay ‘entry fees’ (they do, claimed that it was 6.5, and in 2013, however, have to invest in Amway products); IBOs are 6.4. So actually, some foreigners will compensated based on their sales performance; Amway misunderstand that the unemployment rate in China is high. has over 50 years of history and operates in over 100 This is not the main reason for the proliferation.” countries; and also, employees can quit at any time. Ouyang represents China’s official attitude towards Applauding one’s company for allowing employees to direct-selling corporations today. He is quick to condemn quit of their own free will seems a bit bizarre to me. But luck- illegal pyramid schemes like Shanxinhui – but equally quick ily for Amway China, IBOs are doing a lot of the PR work to defend licensed corporations like Amway. for them. When I ask Cui what she thinks of people who “Amway has many positive influences on Chinese soci- consider Amway a pyramid scheme, she tells me: “Only a ety,” he reads, from a stack of printouts he’s brought to our good, big, established company would receive that kind of interview. “They have become a model for direct selling in attention, and have other people be jealous of it. Some China. Amway has also formed a specific and unique way people are bitter or salty.” to promote trade corporation between the US and China.” Two weeks later, I’m back at the Experience Center. I If it’s not unemployed people who are joining these com- wander through the displays, this time without a guide, but panies, then, I ask who is. He reads a list consisting of three with my colleague, Iris, instead. Behind us, a group of wom- types of people: those who want to start their own business, en talk about Nutrilite. One says her husband’s kidney prob- those who are employed in companies that “operate in the lems cleared up after he took the supplements. Another traditional way, but who met some challenges that were ex- mentions an elderly friend of hers who’s unusually energetic, tremely difficult to overcome, and therefore turned to direct thanks to the brand. Iris turns to me and whispers. selling,” and finally, “young people who have dreams and “People in China are so afraid of dying now,” she says. want to achieve something big.” “Before, life was hard. Even just 10 or 15 years ago, life I ask if there’s anything Ouyang would like to say off his was much harder. But now, people see that things are get- prepared script, but no, he says, he would prefer to read. ting better and better. They want to be around for the future. When I contact Amway China’s public relations department I think that’s why things like Nutrilite do so well here.” later, I’m told no one is available to comment. A week later, Amway’s best product, after all, is hope. And I get the feel- I get a call from an Amway China PR representative, implor- ing Cui still hopes that I’ll buy her products. When I get back ing me to send her my piece before I publish it. I refuse. She to the office that afternoon, I have a notification from WeChat. says, “Are you interested in politics?” Yeah. “We have noth- It’s a message from Cui saying, “Hey, you’re great!”

51 EAT & DRINK

MIFAN OR MAFAN We tell you if the rice is worth the hassle at these new openings, p55

Jing-A Brewpub Shanghainese Food Bars-Turned-Restaurants p56 p57 p59 FOOD FOR THOUGHT 53 | gushen NOVEMBER 2017 WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM n o ou o n at the end profit If my surprised. I’m rarely than I expect, then I’ll be is more of the year surprised. ou ou o ijin io i in i o o i the most because it was The Qing dynasty, history. Chinese in era prosperous o o i ou a food-related Running entrepreneurs. F&B a make to business is tiring, and it’s hard good profit. o i o ou on i iin Buffett. the ultimate He’s Warren is prediction talent for god’). His (‘stock incredible. downright Zhang's shop, Jiujiuya, is on Chunxiu Lu. o uiin in in o uiin g

malatan , so it would be , so it would malatang I’m always laughing or smiling! I’m a very or smiling! I’m a very laughing I’m always person. positive in son my My son, definitely on in o u o ou i it, say I’m sad to A good sense of morality. people who few very are there but nowadays this. have actually o ii i i ou to If I were countless things I hate. are There job. pick just one: my u ou ou ou n on in ou ou ou ou in on n ou ou i ou i a own to I’d want sure. My job, for a lot of people in Bei- are shop, because there eat jing who one. run to [profitable] oion o u i ou earn to son. My motivation My 10-year-old do anything to him. I want from stems money him. I can for ou oni o ou i n ou ou o i o o o i ou ou i n the have about this. I don’t thought never I’ve about hypothetical think to time and energy limited. are questions. My time and energy up most of the takes each day Finishing work mind. space in my -

laughs, then laughs, then

]. One of our employees got sick today, got sick today, ]. One of our employees

interview by Yuka Hayashi Yuka by interview A Pickle Seller DEEP WITH... DEEP

MODERATELY MODERATELY GETTING about my business. about my long break and go have fun without worrying fun without worrying and go have long break in my hometown with my family. This is the family. with my hometown in my such a have that I get to time of the year only n n ou i ou n n New Year I’m happiest during the Chinese so I had to replace him instead of going back him instead replace so I had to home and sleeping. to do, but fail to do most days [ do most days to do, but fail to sighs Exhausted. I woke up at 3am just to set up my set up my up at 3am just to I woke Exhausted. I’m supposed is what which business early, o ou in o in ou o customers lined up out front were watching. were lined up out front customers want to sell anything to, but he kept on insist but he kept to, sell anything to want me. All of my fight ing, and ended up trying to I once had a drunk customer that I didn’t that I didn’t I once had a drunk customer uo o o i ou o i ou uo o i ou chill. Anyone to do right now. I’m so sleepy that I feel like like that I feel I’m so sleepy now. do right to I’m sleepwalking. When I don’t have to go to work, because work, go to to have When I don’t all I want then I can sleep in. That’s literally i ou i o i o i ou than everyone else. than everyone I thought, I’m going to set up shop early I thought, set up shop early I’m going to business later open my I usually Since today! ou o u i onin o ou i in ou ou n n ou ou i in This month, we meet Zhang at his shop, shop, his at Zhang meet we month, This where he sells smoked duck and pickles. GRAPEVINE

SNACKS IN THE CITY OFF THE BEATEN PLATE

is ruthless. Kidding, TRB’s fantastic. Have you taken your mom to lunch there yet? You should – TRB is the best place in Beijing to take your “I tried banana mom to lunch. It’s also one of the best places in Beijing, period. But the legendary restaurant – which, let’s be real, is now a series of legendary res- and jujube. It was taurants and dining concepts strewn across Dongcheng – has just expanded into Chaoyang in a cutthroat way: like chewing on a taking over nin ’s Taikoo Li space. Yes, that’s exactly why Cantina shut down so abruptly last month. pregnant fying …comments one disturbed netizen TRB will move into the space for its after trying China’s first ‘viral flavor new concept, uu. (We have no idea combination.’ It all began when a what this concept will be yet.) Cantina screenshot appeared online of friends Agave, meanwhile, will simply cockroach that discussing their experiences of eat- continue shaking up margaritas at its ing banana and jujube together, with Shanghai location. We have our one claiming it had made her fall to fingers crossed that Hulu will be had just eaten a her knees in disgust. Soon after, over worth the loss. 41,000 people shared the special Another loss we’re sad to report ‘recipe,’ many with tasting notes. The this month is oioi, who are call- ideal ratio is four parts banana, two ing it quits after not one, but two of stinkbug” parts jujube. Now you know. NM its shops were shut by Beijing’s city- wide renovations. On a brighter note, n has resufaced from that NEWS BITE very ‘beautification campaign’ with a new, improved spot on Jiaodaokou. You, the high-end sushi joint that is not remotely impacted by any of this, has also opened a new location, in tech hub Zhongguancun. Meanwhile, the train heads southward, first with an upcoming location in Guomao, and then way south, to Shanghai. Speaking of Shanghai, its most popular brewery has come northward to us: oin is hosting a pop-up in 1949, Courtyard 4, through the end of the year. (But we hear they’re looking PEKING, PAPERS AND PROMOS for a permanent location.) A barbecue restaurant near Xizhimen opened by a group of medical students from Peking and Finally, has a new Autumn/ Tsinghua Universities found itself trending on social media last month after a special promotion Winter menu (shout out to TRIBE for was picked up by Chinese media, reports What’s on Weibo. The deal offers customers a discount, designating their menus ‘Autumn/ provided they’ve had an academic paper published in a scientific journal in the past five years. Winter’ like a designer at Fashion According to a blog post by the owners, the promotion is meant to encourage research and Week). NM celebrate academic success. The calculation is: “Total Bill – Impact Factor * 10 = Discounted Price,” with the impact factor being the ratio of citations to articles published. So, if you’ve been published or just fancy some chuanr, check out ‘The Lancet BBQ’ (named after the famous medical journal) on 1 Jiaotong Duxue Lu, Haidian. DW

54 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EDITED BY NOELLE MATEER / [email protected]

MIFAN/MAFAN

We Tell You if the Rice is Worth the Mplus Coffce Hassle Coffice: It’s a portmanteau of ‘coffee’ and ‘office.’ Horrifying, we know. While we award its name no points, the cafe itself fares significantly better – chic ambiance, cute primary- school-style desks, obligatory single-origin beans. Plus there’s a co-working space next door, so at least the name is appropriate. No f*cking clue what Mplus is, though.

Daily, 9am-9pm; 7 Banqiaonanxiang, Beixinqiao, Dongcheng 东城区北新桥板桥南巷7号

Simply Fresh Simply Fresh is the latest joint in a Beijing mall to hawk its chef’s ex- Michelin credentials. What exactly was the chef doing in his previous Michelin restaurant? We do not know. What we do know is that Simply Fresh is a simply good lunch option in Guomao, where imported Italian ingredients come without the imported Italian prices.

Daily, 10.30am-10pm; 2/F, North Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghuadongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号院中海广场北楼2层 (5290 3887)

Afandi Afandi, whose alarming slogan is ‘MUSLIMDELICIOUS,’ is the best restaurant on Gui Jie. If that sounds like a bold proclamation, consider the following: Gui Jie is sht, and that makes Afandi more like a five out of 10 in the scheme of things. But we might be willing to slide that up to a six on weekends, when a belly danc- er performs for uncomfortable table guests. Is it gaudy? Absolutely. But there are worse places to eat chuanr.

Daily, 11am-4am; 162 Dongzhimen Neidajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门内大街162号 (6403 5580)

Baker & Spice Baker & Spice (AKA the more mature version of Wagas – they’re owned by the same people) keeps things classy at its second location in Taikoo Li North. In fact, the new spot is so similar to the first one in Liangmaqiao, it even has the same neighbor, Starbucks. Think open-plan interior, baked goods and sandwiches, good coffee and bottles of wine. Yes, please.

Daily, 10am-10pm; LG1, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, 19 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路19号三里屯太古里北区LG1层 (6462 8760)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 55 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANTS

JING-A BREWPUB Bigger and Better by Dominique Wong

When it comes to the Beijing Craft Beer ing mixes by Mao Mao Chong and the Tiki Scene, Jing-A is one of the OGs. And, perhaps, Bungalow). What may seem gimmicky is the most ‘G’ – they do have a Wu Tang- actually so fresh and on point – the Mala inspired beer called Hutong Clan. Mule is a tingly ginger sensation. But it says a lot about the scene that Jing-A But really, we’re here for the food, and you only opened its now-famous taproom in should be too. The star-spangled banner of 2014, after a stint operating out of the space the menu is the barbecue meat (RMB70-400). formerly home to Big Smoke. Now, they’re Slow-smoked, the meat comes with plenty of back to their old fermenting grounds with accompaniments, including grilled mantou – location No. 2: Jing-A Brewpub, Xingfucun. an inspired choice. For anyone who frequents its first tap- If the pork ribs are good – and they room – we’re guessing most of you, judging are – then the sandwiches are great. We by the number of drinkers there every night have heretofore anointed the BBQ brisket – this can only be good news. There is a lot sandwich (RMB70) the ‘Best in Beijing.’ to like about the new spot: it is damn big, Other dishes are hit or miss. The mac’n’ with dining tables in the front, a taproom in cheese (RMB40) is revelatory, but the crispy the middle and a bar near the back. There’s Brussels sprouts (RMB30) are deep-fried even hallway seating, because why the hell within an inch of their lives. Definitely don’t not? order them under any pretense of being Bigger doesn’t necessarily mean ‘healthy.’ better – except in this case, it kind of does. With all the other OGs seemingly upping Essentially, the brewpub takes all the good their game this past year – Slow Boat’s stuff from the original taproom – delicious Sanlitun taproom just turned one, and even beer, red bricks – and adds a heap of other Shanghai's Boxing Cat has made its Beijing great stuff, like Texas-style barbecue, room to debut – it was about time that Jing-A joined move and double the number of bathrooms. the big bois with a big brewpub. Beer varieties include the usual suspects (Flying Fist IPA, Koji Red Ale) as well as Mon-Wed, 5pm-midnight, Thu 4pm-midnight, Fri small batch and seasonal brews. But if you’re 4pm-2am, Sat 11am-2am, Sun 11am-midnight; Lee not into beer, there’s whisky, rum, wine World Building, 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (152 1090 7612) and even cocktails on tap (RMB50, includ-

56 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM RESTAURANTS | EAT & DRINK BOILING POT That Fish Cray by Noelle Mateer

Alright, full disclosure: It’s a bit weird to get a bill for RMB750 when you’re wearing a bib smothered in garlic sauce. That kind of money in Beijing normally gets you a white tablecloth, or at least royally f*cked up. But at Boiling Pot, it gets you a series of large plastic bags, plastic gloves, garish plastic bibs and one round of Coronas for the table. ter and hot sauce. decision. But if you think this is about to be a bad Here’s how it works: Go to Boiling Pot’s After picking your favorite creature to kill, review, you, my friend, are wrong. For Boiling new Sanlitun location, and order a drink you can choose the spice level and the sauce. Pot is serving a truly noble purpose in off their Comic Sans cocktail menu (stick Your server will recommend the signature Beijing. Have you ever walked down Gui Jie, with Coronas). Then, switch to the food sauce (whose name we’ve forgotten, but is seen all the long lines, and wondered what all menu (both are laminated, smart) and go to something like ‘Boom’ or ‘Pizazz’), but we’re the fuss around crayfish is about? Have you town on crustaceans. Order crayfish, clams, partial to the garlic-butter stuff. You can also ever, upon expressing interest in trying said shrimp, lobster and crab by the pound. But be add vegetables – it’s like hot pot, but in a crayfish, been silenced by people around you, warned: the premium seafoods (like our King bag. They should really change their name to piping up to share gastrointestinal horror crab legs) come at premium prices. That’s Boiling Bag. stories from their own visits to Ghost Street? because, if you dare, your server will lead you There are also sides – French fries, fried Do you still, just a little bit, kinda wanna eat to the tanks, where you can choose which chicken, sandwiches (?!) – but don’t waste some crayfish? animal you want slaughtered and smothered your time with those. You’re here for the sea- Boiling Pot does so much for the humble in butter sauce. Fun! Ultimately, this is how food. And damn, that fish cray. seabug by serving it in its most perfect form: you get a bill as expensive as ours. This is a New Orleans-style boil. All that entails, also how you get damn delicious crab legs. I Daily, 11am-1am; Courtyard 4 (next to Home Plate) really, is tossing it in a big ugly bag with but- don’t know what to tell you, really. It’s your Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 工体北路4号院机电院内

Here in Beijing, the cuisine is made to sustain used to. Where do you begin? us through long, cold winters. In Shanghai, You begin at Wulixiang. The Shanghainese meanwhile, its for long, elegant banquets. The restaurant is fit for both China gastronomy WULIXIANG latter is undoubtedly worse. What with all nerds and the freshest of the fresh off the the baijiu toasts, rigid codes of table etiquette boat. With excellent service and a welcom- Shanghai School and constant pressure to impress senior busi- ing environment (Sanlitun!), Wulixiang sets nesspeople, we’d take a Beijing winter over a a new standard for Shanghainese food in by Noelle Mateer Shanghai banquet any day. And yeah, that ap- Beijing. plies to the food, too. Authentic Shanghainese While laowai will learn a lesson or two cuisine is not for the faint of foreign palates from its menu, Wulixiang’s cuisine is far – it’s sweet, fishy, often goopy and frequently from elementary. The eight-treasure duck not the temperature (RMB480) practically has a PhD – deboned, you expect. cooked three times, stuffed with all manner ‘But I love xiaolong- of sweets and savories (sounds crazy, we bao,’ you say. Duh, know, but we promise it’s delicious). Their everyone loves soup red braised pork (RMB108) glistens. But our dumplings, but those favorite is the perfect scallion oil noodles are just the dainty (RMB28), the best dish we had in Beijing all showgirls of Shanghai month. We know it’s uncool to go to a nice food. Do you love restaurant and like the noodles best. But it’s wheat germ soaked in the truth. sweet wine? Do you Wulixiang’s aesthetic, meanwhile, has all love cold chicken? the elegance of a banquet and none of its What are your feel- clamor. And while it’s certainly nice enough ings on tongue? to take your boss to, it’s also reasonably Shanghainese food priced enough to visit for pleasure – which is one of the greats, is exactly what we’ll be doing, during this and it is equally rich long, cold Beijing winter. in both nutrients and history – but long Daily, 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm; 1/F, Pacific story short, its flavors Century Place, 2A Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 can take some getting 人体育场北路甲2号盈科中心临街底商1/F (6539 8660)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 57 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANTS

THE COFFEE WHISPERER ne ats ission to ocument eiins oee Renaissance interview by Noelle Mateer, photos provided by Marco Costantini

Just 15, 10, even five years ago, coffee in o ou ou i ijin o i ou ou on o Beijing was drastically different than it is to- n oon o o oo day. But now, more third-wave (read: hipster) n on ijin n Beijing’s coffee scene seems to be still in coffee shops open per month than we have its infancy, trying to work out a formula of i o in Guomao brews its own Nitro room for in this magazine. expansion. It’s a great time to be involved [cold-brew coffee served on tap], that is well Marco Costantini picks up our slack. The in it, as many cafes are trying to grow and worth trying, along with all the different Italian-New Zealander expat is the founder introduce coffee culture to the masses. single origin and blends roasted on site. For of Black White Filter, a new online guide to Most cafe owners know each other, and a more comprehensive tour, Dashilar offers independent cafes in Beijing, featuring stories there is a very tight community, which is a three of the best: o, ooi and iin about the people that make the scene. It’s big change from the stiff competition one oo. They all roast their own beans, have a love letter to Beijing coffee. We caught up might witness in Western countries. There their very own styles and brands, and are with the Coffee Whisperer himself. is the feeling that possibly some ‘big play- great places to relax. ers’ might get into the market soon, but at i ou i i this stage there is still plenty of room for To see the guide, check out www.bwfbeijing.com I had visited Beijing many years ago, and everyone. couldn’t find a good coffee anywhere. When I moved here last year, it was a pleasant i o oo ino- surprise to find that many cafes had opened uion o ijin o and were serving great coffee. But I couldn’t I would recommend starting like I find a comprehensive guide of these small did, along Wudaoying Hutong, with independent cafes, with maps and directions either i or n. in English, that included all the information I They were the first, and are still was after – so I created one. two of the most popular, offering great service and a wide selection o ou ino o of beans. Barista is where most of I have been working in hospitality for almost [Beijing’s] baristas have actually 20 years, and spent most of that time behind started their career, while Metal a coffee machine, either in Europe or New Hands seems to have inspired the Zealand. I was born and raised in Italy, where aesthetics of other cafes in town, coffee is mainly stovetops and espresso, and with its Nordic-style approach of usually a quick affair at the bar counter. wood and exposed concrete. I spent more than 10 years in Wellington, i, u , and New Zealand, where there’s a very strong in o (behind the Lama coffee culture, and it’s possibly the birthplace Temple) are also good starting of the flat white [Ed. note: Australians contest points. They focus not only on cof- this]. Now, in China, I have become accus- fee, but also on creating a commu- tomed to light roasts and pour overs. nity where everyone feels welcome.

58 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM RESTAURANTS | EAT & DRINK

CHAPLIN BAR & KITCHEN A Restaurant in Train-ing by Dominique Wong

You may know Charlie Chaplin Bar, Spread over three elaborately decorated the snacks – the calamari is best forgotten Sanlitun, or Charlie Chaplin Bar, Chunxiu floors, the new space is big and fabulous. – and go straight for the ‘classic American Lu, but have you heard of their little bro The first floor resembles a train, the sec- combo’ meals. Presented on silver dining Chaplin Bar & Kitchen, Shilipu? (Have you ond floor looks like the backstage of a trays (like on a train, get it?), the combo even heard of Shilipu?) theater and the third houses the bar proper. meals include a main, appetizer, salad, Chaplin Empire’s latest opening is (There’s also a basement, but don’t drink bread, and beer or wine. They’re a delight – something you never knew you wanted there – it’s creepy.) the New York-style burger, especially – and or needed: a place that serves up Charlie Drinks ordered from the lower floors the sets are a steal at RMB125-145. Chaplin Bar’s stellar cocktails alongside arrive via ‘trolley service’ – the server liter- CBK is a solid addition to the team. Sure, full-on meals. This definitely isn’t Sanlitun ally makes drinks off of a trolley. It’s fun it’s a little ‘out there,’ but if you’re a Charlie (read: the location is whack) but with lit- watching the cocktails being made, but Chaplin fan, this matters not. tle else going on in the ’Pu other than a even better downing them. Maan Coffee and a Japanese izakaya, junior Chaplin makes dope drinks, blah, blah, Daily, 5pm-midnight; 1/F, Bldg 10, 129 Courtyard, Chaplin at least stands out from its neigh- blah. Tell us something we don’t know, you 107 Balizhuang Beili, Chaoyang 朝阳区八里庄背北里 bors. say. OK, so the food is mostly good, but skip 129号院10楼1层107号 (8584 6880)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 59 EAT & DRINK | RESTAURANTS

TEDDY BEAR THEME RESTAURANT Grin and Bear it at 3.3’s Latest Oddity words and images by Dominique Wong

When we hear there’s a new restaurant in 3.3 Mall jam-packed with teddy bears, we accept it, no questions asked. After all, this is a mall where passersby take selfies next to hot-pink Ferraris outside Costa Coffee, while the car owners themselves (“Fu’erdai,” Costa staff say wisely) drink mochas inside; a mall where myriad identical clothing stores, like ‘I Love Pretty,’ sit beside hip vintage shops and speak- easies. It’s a weird place. And now, Teddy Bear Theme Restaurant. Despite being named after the children’s toy (that itself was named after former US president Teddy Roosevelt, after he refused to kill a bear caught during a hunt), the restaurant has a pretty loose definition of ‘teddy bear’ – literally hundreds of soft toys, not limited to the Ursidae family, line the walls of the restaurant’s three ginormous dining spaces. It’s an ambitious project. Pet project, if you will. There are special edition bears. Panda bears. Rilakkuma, Paddington and Pooh Bears. ‘Bears’ that aren’t really bears. But, we digress. Apart from a somewhat random page dedicated to Korean cuisine, the menu offers generic Western grub: pizza, steak and sandwiches. Our beef burger (RMB78, including salad and fries) is quickly devoured in the company of an oversized rabbit and lion. Whether this is off-putting or not depends on your tolerance for strangeness – or, we suppose, your age. Us? We watch the TV, screening an oddly arresting documentary about a bear in the wilderness. Paddington follows, demonstrating an admirable commitment to theme. Still, we’re left with doubts. The burger itself isn’t bad, but in an area full of great burger options, why settle for mediocrity? Why would anyone visit essentially a toy museum for the food, anyway? And, furthermore: who is actually going to this place, other than intrepid reviewers or people looking for teddy bear photo ops?

Daily, 11am-11pm; 3.3 Mall, Shop 5006, 5/F, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路5 层5006商场3.3 (5136 5886)

60 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM CITY SCENES Oktoberfest festivities at Kempinski Hotel Beijing include a dance-oﬀ.

Woman fulﬁlls dream of becoming Marilyn Monroe at O’Bar, NUO Hotel’s New calligraphy exhibition at Du Xiao Yue gets the coordinated thumbs-up. second birthday celebration.

Eudora Station’s Sunday Latin dance party has (almost) everyone throwing Chef at the Four Seasons’ Taste of Artistry event smiles at a cheesy joke. their hands in the air like they just don’t care.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | OCTOBER 2017 | 61 EVENTS

Japanese Breakfast / Gig HVOB Gig

HEAR

HVOB is short for ‘Her Voice Over Boys.’ The feminist within us salutes the name, and everyone everywhere salutes the music. HVOB’s latest release, Silk, has been touted by American Thump as a contender for album of the Sam Binga DJ Japanese breakfast tastes good. Japanese Breakfast sounds good too – we’re talking year. The Austrian electronic duo have Syndicate is bringing Sam Binga to about the synth-pop project by Michelle Zauner (who is probably sick of these jokes performed a Boiler Room set, and now Beijing – again. The Bristol native is the by now). She’s currently touring her killer album Soft Sounds From Another Planet, so they’re bringing that same energy to rare imported-British-DJ who actually we mean it when we say her songs are out of this world (sorry). Make sure to check Omni Space. knows something about China – he the deets below though – this is a ‘special brunch show,’ so that means a 1.30pm Fri Nov 10; Omni Space, B103 studied in Shanghai in the late 90s. start. Tianqiao Arts Center, Xiachen Anyway, you’re not going to his show Sat Dec 2, 1.30pm; RMB100 (presale), RMB140 (door); Yue Space, 7 Banqiao Square, Xicheng 西城区天桥艺术中心 for that. You’re going for his bangin’ Nan Xiang, Dongcheng 东城区北新桥板桥南巷7号下沉广场B103 up-tempo electronic set. Sat Nov 18; tickets TBD; Dada (see Denis Sulta / DJ Itzhak Perlman Listings for details) Recital

Mabang Gig

This will not be your average rock show at Yugong. Mabang are a band How did the up-and-coming Glaswegian DJ get his name? He says: “I have another from Guanxi who fuse folk music from Alias called 'Atlus' that focuses more on a darker and angry sonic aesthetic. When I Southern China with rock, reggae and was a bit younger, I was quite an angry young man and my music reﬂected that. On Quite possibly the most famous violin- ska. If that last sentence just made my 21st birthday I had a change of heart and became a little more hopeful. Sulta is ist on Earth, Itzhak Perlman and his you go, “Wait, what?” then go check just Atlus backwards, as my angst and frustration had turned on its head. As for the very skilled ﬁngers are in the capital them out. Denis, well, it was originally spelt 'Dennis' and was inspired by Disco Stu from 'The this month for a solo show. Prepare to Tue Nov 7, 8.30pm; RMB80 (presale), Simpsons.’” To see the rest of our interview with the prodigy producer, see be blown away. RMB100 (door); Yugong Yishan (see thatsmags.com/beijing. To see the show, peep below. Thu Nov 9, 7.30; RMB600-1,200; Listings for details) Fri Nov 17; tickets TBD; Dada (see Listings for details) NCPA (see Listings for details)

62 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM EVENTS

Virtual Reality Art / Exhibition Open Mic Night Comedy

Every night is a Smash night at 8-Bit, but Wednesdays are more about smashing out laughs. Following its former longstanding gig at Hot Cat Club, Comedy Club China has relocated its open-mic night to 8-Bit. Come and listen to amateurs and veterans alike try their luck at the mic, and, if you’re Bazaar of the Dead feeling frisky, you can take a chance Market too. Who knows, your mom may not be lying when she says you’re hilarious. Beijing’s monthly Rumble in the Jumble Wednesdays, 9-11pm; free; 8-Bit, 13 is a treasure chest full of vintage goods, Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣 books, natural skincare and delicious 鼓巷13号 (www.comedyclubchina.com) food. At the last one we enjoyed Fairtrade Ethiopian coffee, homemade Virtual reality gets the art treatment at Faurschou Foundation’s VR Art Gabriel Azoulay Yoga nut butters, craft beer and more. This exhibition, ongoing until February (see That’s Beijing's October issue for our month’s jumble is especially killer be- first-hand account). This month, artist Paul McCarthy takes over the gallery cause as well as the usual goods, the with eerie works featuring doll-like figures and neon colors. ‘Bazaar of the Dead’ market includes Through Nov 24, Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm; free; Faurschou Foundation, 798 Art District, face-painting, a photo booth and cider 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号798号798艺术区 (5978 9316, www. apple bopping. faurschou.com) Sat Nov 4, 12-6pm; Modernista, 44 Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区宝 Walled Village to Huanghuacheng Great Wall / 钞胡同44号 (for more info add WeChat Hike ID: RumbleBJ)

Visual Chronicles Workshop

If you’re looking to deepen your yoga practice and meet likeminded people, check out this one-off yoga program Do you love scrapbooking? Well this is taught by renowned yoga teacher the class for you. Create your own visu- Garbiel Azoulay. Comprised of both al diary by compiling photos and docu- Winter is coming, and the last hikes of the season are calling. For the walled weekend workshops (Nov 4-5, Nov ments in an artful way. The S Lab pro- village to Huanghuacheng Great Wall hike, Beijing Hikers will take you to a walled 11) and weekday classes (Nov 6-10), vides photo printers and scrapbooking village near the former Ming dynasty army barracks. From there, you’ll hike through each class focuses on a different style materials for your projects. Instructors fields and see chestnut orchards. Bring your camera and maybe a bit of experience: of yoga such as yin and Ashtanga. The are also on hand to share ideas and tips the hike is rated 3+, meaning a reasonable level of fitness is required. Although it’s program includes refreshments plus a on layout and decoration. only just over 5km long, it’s steep, so hikers beware. If you’re up for the adventure, free TCM session by DDSY Health. Fridays, 7-9pm; RMB150 (class), join Beijing Hikers for a walk filled with both beauty and history, and see a part of Nov 4-11, times vary; RMB380- RMB1,000 (8 class bundle); The S Lab, China your guidebook didn’t tell you about. Finish it up with a meal, included in the 4,600; Dadeshengyi Health Center, Room 103, Bldg 5, 15 Dongzhimen Wai price, and feel smug when you win WeRun for the day. 1/F, Jianwai DRC No. 15 Building, Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街 Sat Nov 25, 8.30am-5.30pm; RMB400 (RMB360 for members); Beijing Hikers Chaoyang 建国门外交公寓15号楼底 15号楼5单元102室 (156 0120 1550) (email [email protected]) 商大德盛意健康管理中心 (8532 5007)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 63 EVENTS

Hairy Crab Season 8x8 Beer Festival / Beer Dining

TASTE

Let’s die and go to beer heaven. This month, Jing-A hosts a craft beer festival featur- With Autumn comes the return of the ing eight breweries from the Pacific Northwest collaborating with eight breweries hairy crab, and Rosewood Beijing has Thanksgiving at V from Greater China. At four different free-flow sessions, try international beers made you covered on all fronts. Featuring Sports Holiday specifically for the festival, as well as some cross-Pacific collaborations for a truly two restaurants serving their own global beer experience. Talk to brewers and get tastefully sloshed as you indulge in V Sports has all your Thanksgiving twists on the fall classic, both House 136 unique beers. needs covered. With two menu op- of Dynasties and Country Kitchen offer Fri Nov 3-Sat Nov 4; RMB300-1,188; UCCA (see Listings for details and tions, you can have a traditional something seasonal for every mood. 8x8brewingproject.com for tickets) Thanksgiving meal with plenty of Country Kitchen and House of pumpkin (here’s to the creamy pump- Dynasties, Rosewood Beijing (see kin soup and pumpkin pie). If you Listings for details) Boxing Cat Brewery Pop Up / Beer have the numbers, go in together for a whole roasted turkey. Turkey Taxi by The Thu Nov 23, 5-11pm; RMB159-179, CUT Holiday Whole turkey RMB980; V Sports (see Listings for details)

Thanksgiving at Kerry Holiday

What’s Thanksgiving without good food and children running wild? Kerry’s Kitchen offers a buffet of traditional Thanksgiving dishes, as well as some If you want the taste of Thanksgiving Craft beer is still decidedly in so satiate your thirst for a good one at the Boxing Cat creative twists for an updated take on dinner at home without all the prep, Brewery Pop Up. A long time Shanghai staple, Boxing Cat is coming to Beijing in the holiday. Children can run about call Turkey Taxi. Get a 7 or 9-kilo turkey, style. You may know the name from their collab with the ever popular Great Leap the Adventure Zone and remember plus gravy and cranberry sauce, and Brewing, now come and enjoy their own brews and see how a decade’s worth of their Thanksgiving in Beijing for years then add two sides of your choosing. craft beer experience pays off on the palate. Don’t be afraid to experiment: Boxing to come. Mon Oct 9-Sun Dec 31; RMB1,588 Cat prides itself on its innovation – you’re obliged to experiment with them. Thu Nov 23; Kerry’s Kitchen (see (orders require 48-hour notice, call Through Sun Dec 31; Mon-Fri, 5pm-late, Sat-Sun, noon-late; 1949, Courtyard 4, Listings for details) 8507 3618 to book) Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院1949会所

64 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM Fertile Mud / Calligraphy DPRK Artworks Exhibition

SEE

Taiwanese restaurant Du Hsiao Yueh and Taiwanese artist Xu Zhifang have linked up for a special exhibition showcasing Xu’s calligraphy works. The exhibition, held at the restaurant’s Taikoo Li branch, is inspired by Taiwanese food culture. Originally showcased in the Yongkang Street branch in Taiwan last year, the exhibition’s elegant works add a nice touch to the Taikoo Li spot’s charming traditional environment. Nick Bonner, co-founder of Koryo Tours, Du Hsiao Yueh is a veritable institution, at 122 years old. The restaurant’s danzaim- has collected a number of original ian, a simple combination of springy noodles, braised minced meat, vinegar and graphic design works over the course fresh shrimp, is the stuﬀ of legends. Yet its superstar status belies a humble begin- Rice Dance of his 20 years of travels to-and-from ning: Du Hsiao Yueh was a ﬁsherman by trade who sold noodles during typhoon the DPRK. A selection of these curi- Cloud Gate Dance Theatre presents season. Four generations later, branches of the restaurant can be found not only in ous works is being exhibited – and is Rice, a dance performance, at NCPA’s Taiwan but also the Mainland and Hong Kong. Xu Zhifang is a calligraphy artist who even available to purchase – at Pop-Up Opera House. The show is inspired by specializes in seal cutting and pottery carving. Beijing this month. A once-in-a-lifetime the scenery and history of Chihshang Through Dec 19, Mon-Thu, Sun, 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat, 11am-11pm; Du Hsiao Yueh opportunity to check out or buy a his- in the East Rift Valley of Taiwan. (Sanlitun); B1, Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路19号太 torical artifact from the DPRK. What used to be a farming village 古里南B1 (6417 8078) Daily, through Nov; Pop-Up Beijing, using chemical fertilizers is now an Bldg 22, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, area championing organic farming. Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院22号 Inspiring. (6502 5725) Thu Nov 2-Sun Nov 5, 7.30pm; RMB280-680; Opera House of NCPA, 2 Xi Chang'an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西 Aterballeto Ballet 长安街2号 (tickets via sales@theatrebeijing.com)

Chieftain Book Talk

American writer Mike Tucker visits Beijing’s preeminent literary spot for a Prepare to be awed by the sheer reading from his book Chieftain. The athleticism of Italian dance company reading will be followed by a Q&A and Aterballetto. The company likes to book signing. Tucker’s 17th book is set incorporate every aspect of art in its in the guerrilla war in North China in choreography: ﬁne arts, drama, poetry the late-1930s and is a mercenary saga and music. And despite its Italian roots, about justice. The Sunday Times com- Aterballeto is comprised of dancers pared the writer to Hemingway for his from all over the world. book Spartacus Did the Right Thing. Sat Nov 25-Sun Nov 26, 7.30pm; Wed Nov 8, 7.30pm; RMB50 (in- RMB100-500; Drama Theatre of cludes a drink); The Bookworm (see NCPA, 2 Xi Chang'an Jie, Xicheng 西 Listings for details, tickets via https:// 城区西长安街2号 (tickets via sales@ yoopay.cn/event/17092371) theatrebeijing.com)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 65 Expensive...... ¥ Expense Account ...... ¥¥ Highly Recommended ...... * LISTINGS Top Ten ...... ** Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, OPEN DOOR RESTAURANTS Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店 3层 (6597 8888) The Hot One Hundred Da Dong 大董 About This guide represents our editors’ Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) roast duck and delectable wrap ﬁllings. The have been personally reviewed by our venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow. experts, and scored according to the > Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng cuisine, experience and affordability. 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadon- gdadong.com for more locations

CHINESE Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) with fantastic presentation of its crispy, The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant succulent duck (RMB188). has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝 soups. (Their decent wine list is just as 阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) ; 98 Jinbao Jie, effective.) Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Xihe Village Restaurant and Bar Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 > Mon-Fri Lunch: 11am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5-9pm; 酒店2层 (5960 8822) Sun: 11am-9pm, S9-33, 3/F, South Area of Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19 Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) 号三里屯太古里南区三层S9-33(6417 6082) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 Shanghai eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao Shanghai Min 小南国 or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s Many swear this chain has the best always a long wait. Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, remains. Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士 Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; 购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental com.cn for details Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking online.thatsmags.com for details) Duck) Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 Resembling something between a night- Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with club and a theater, the Opposite House’s Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- basement restaurant proves to be more meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs than just style over substance with their (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. range of expertly prepared classic dishes. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor > Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469) 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230) Sichuan/Hunan Peking Duck Chuan Ban 川办 * The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing This bright, modestly decorated dining hall Duck) ** is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has restaurant. widened its predominantly Cantonese > Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat- and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, Sun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 the roast bird here really is fabulous. 2277, ext. 6101) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188) Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss Honglu 红炉 the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号 MIDDLE 8 院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535)

South Memory 望湘园 Far From Middle-of-the-Road This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple in the capital. The trademark shilixiang When it comes to Yunnanese cuisine, Beijing has a long tradition of chefs niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and cranking out the classics in tiny hutong restaurants. Why? We have no idea. We meltingly tender frog dishes are among the love those hutong haunts, but still, we’ll admit we’re grateful for the following: favorites with locals. > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Middle 8 is in a very convenient location. Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 Situated on the fourth floor of Taikoo Li (just above Hatsune), Middle 8 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. serves quality Yunnan fare in the heart of Sanlitun. And what excellent Yunnan southmemory.com for more locations HongLu>Daily 11am-9.30pm, Sanlitun:Beijing Daily 11:00am- Cuisine fare it is – squeaky goat cheese, elegantly cooked mushrooms, pineapple rice. 10:00pm, 60 Meters Of No. 6 Building Sanlitun Yu Xin 渝信川菜 The restaurant has been churning out the hits here for years, but now we’re South Road Chaoyang 三里屯店: 朝阳区三里屯南 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan 路6号楼南侧60米 (6595 9872; 6593 8970) Raffles: dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their happy to report that they’ve updated their menu with even more winners. Daily 11:00am-10:00pm, 5 Floor Of Raffles shopping liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into Classic rice noodles, served simply with an array of toppings and sauces to center Dongzhimen Dongcheng 来福士店: 东城区东 chunky strips and dressed in an addictive 直门来福士购物中心层 the side, are the perfect belly-warmer for Beijing’s cooling temperature. Slices 5 (8409 8199; 8409 8234) spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, of fatty pork, fried lightly, crackle delightfully with chili flakes. Fine mushrooms Country Kitchen friendly service complete the experience. – brought in directly from Yunnan – come wrapped tenderly in banana leaves, The name ‘Country Kitchen’ may sound like > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang a diner, but a diner this is not. Rosewood 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com making for a dish that’s pleasing to both the palette and the eye. Whether Beijing’s resplendent Northern Chinese for other locations. you’re looking for something hearty or light, Yunnanese cuisine has it – and restaurant serves elegant Hebei fare unlike you’ve ever had. Excellent peking duck is Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** when it comes to Yunnanese, Middle 8 knows their stuff. on offer as well. Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and > Middle 8 (see Listings for details) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 3F hot climate. While the latter isn’t able to

66 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS be replicated, the creative minds at Transit Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400 5281) have made some ﬁery additions to the clas- OPEN DOOR sical, chili-thumping canon, and they will Jia Chinese Restaurant禾家中餐厅 charge you for that knowledge. But unlike (Cantonese) many equally expensive joints, this is high- Featuring modern Ming elements with end Chinese dining at its best. inspired paintings from Xu Wei, a painter, > Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li calligrapher and food and wine connois- North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 seur, the quintessentially authentic house 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) of agriculture produces, Jia Chinese restaurant serves exquisite traditional Cantonese Yunnan specialties in their purest form with chefs hailing from Hong Kong. Using the freshest Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * ingredients from NUO’s very own green If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll farms, NUO Hotel Beijing provides an alter- have to trust the staﬀ: there’s no menu, it native green gourmet option in town. all just arrives in an intimate courtyard set- >Mon-Fri: 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm; Sat-Sun: 11am- ting. The price (RMB120/person) matches 2.30pm, 5.30-10pm; 1/F, NUO Hotel Beijing, 2A the rustic ingredients. Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路甲2号北京诺金酒 > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 店一层（5926 8281） Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430) Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nes- Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian) tled into a charming traditional alleyway. An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this Munch happily into pickled greens and menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak sesame balls. They’re sensational. interior. > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, > Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 号 (6407 1800) 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698) Makye Ame (Tibetan) Middle 8 Restaurant 中8楼 * Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb. > Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号 (6506 9616)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like da- panji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区 An oasis at the top of Taikoo Li, Middle 8 工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741) is the go-to destination for fresh authentic Yunnan cuisine. The restaurant, stylish yet WESTERN understated, has plenty of flavorsome well- priced dishes and a killer view to boot. Fine Dining > Sanlitun: Daily 11am-10pm, Taikoo Li Sanlitun South South Area F4, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古 Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * 里南区4层(6415 8858); Indigo: Daily 11am-10pm, Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not Jiuxianqiao Road No.20 Indigo F2 , Chaoyang 朝阳区 here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, 酒仙桥路20号颐堤港2层(8420 0883); Zhongguancun: meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the Daily 11am-10pm, Zhongguancun Plaza Pedestrian Piedmont wine it is named after. Street, No.R17, Haidian海淀区中关村广场步行街R17 > Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton 号(5172 1728); Fenglan: Daily 11am-10pm, Xizhimen Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, North Street No.32 Maples International Center Blok Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿 B, 1 Floor, Haidian海淀区西直门大街32号枫蓝国际中酒店内 (5908 8151) 心B座1层(6223 5583) Maison Flo ¥¥ (French) * Youyun Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass > Daily, 10am-11pm, 63 Babaokeng Hutong, fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; Beixinqiao, Dongcheng 东城区北新桥八宝坑胡同63 dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 号 6407 2050 / 185 1092 0709 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 of the experience. Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on > Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including 阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135) the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp and banana leaf The Georg ** wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us This hutong mansion has an elegant crawling back. restaurant, leather-couched lounge area, > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng sleek bar and sick location near Houhai. But 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407) most importantly, it has some of the most thoughtful, innovative cuisine in town. Go Dumplings for a dinner you won’t forget. >10.30am-midnight (dinner 6-10.30pm), closed Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Mondays; 45 Dongbuyaqiao Hutong, Dongcheng 东 CAFE FLATWHITE Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump- 城区东不压桥胡同45号 (8408 5300) lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Because You Can Drink Coffee With Dinner, Too silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian The Art Deco interior, swish staff and options and authentic Sichuan food. breathtaking views over the archery towers Flatwhite’s new menu offers up tasty treats to indulge in. An all-new tapas > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967) al-fresco dining, with world-class modern menu features a wide range of delectable options. Try the Spicy BBQ Pork Ribs European stylings and deliciously posh (RMB45) for a rich, flavorful experience. With a mix of Sichuan and Mexican Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 afternoon tea. Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommen- > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen spices, the ribs are more sweet than spicy and the perfect dish to start you off. dation the prices have risen and the walls Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 Then try our personal favorite, the Mussel Cooked with Spicy Broth (RMB68). are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but (6702 2727) The mussels are fresh and light, but filling and utterly satisfying. They swim in a the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic. Héritage ¥¥ delicious broth that’s nuanced and a little sour. Both the mussels and the pork > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, A French country-style chateau in the ribs come from New Zealand, and we can taste the quality of island-bred and Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with 0399, 131 6100 3826) Michelin star restaurant experience and an -caught meat. extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel Don’t want to share? Flatwhite’s brought more to the menu than shareables. Regional restaurant one of the best French dining experiences in town. Order the lamb shank for fall-off-the-bone deliciousness. Served with mashed Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, potatoes and veggies, enjoy a savory and decadent dish that leans on authen- Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场 tic, quality flavor instead of gimmicks. moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) restaurant. Eastern European and Central Top it all off a coffee or a cocktail. And thus we announce that Flatwhite is Asian influences are evident throughout, Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ ** now a solid dinner option: its new menu transforms the popular breakfast and Setting is everything here, especially if with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes lunch spot to an all-hours establishment. livening up traditional Chinese favorites. it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, temple. The bold contemporary European > Cafe Flatwhite (see Listings for details)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 67 LISTINGS

Miss K Cafe (Xing Fu Cafe) airy and with a terrace for summer, the only OPEN DOOR Whether it’s a rainy morning or a sunny af- downside is it’s always packed. ternoon, relax with your favorite novel and > Daily 9.30am-midnight，42 Gulou Dongdajie, a cup of freshly brewed coﬀee. Experience Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807) a quiet moment of serenity amid the hustle and bustle of Beijing. Domain 域 >Daily, 8am-8.30pm; 1/F, Tower A, East Gate Plaza, A blend of café, business center and Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门东环广场A座 lounge, it has a gentle buzz all of its own. 一层幸福咖啡馆 (6418 1096) For privacy, Domain also provides worksta- tions equipped with computers and ipads. JF Royal Teahouse >Daily 7am-8pm, 2/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao >Daily 10am-9:30pm;B215 China World Trade Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒店2层 Center Tower 3, Jintong East Road,Chaoyang Beijing (8414 9830) 北京市朝阳区国贸商城区域3 地下二层B215(8535 1625) Café Flatwhite

Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon- 2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

The English Tearoom英国茶房 >Daily 10am-9.30pm; 101, Bldg 10, North area of Xiangyun Town, 9 Antai Dajie, Shunyi 顺义区安泰大街9号院中粮祥云小镇北区10号楼101(8047 9661 / 8047 9661); Daliy 10am-7pm Creativity Garden,1 Shunhuang Lu，Sunhe xiang,Chaoyang 朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲1号创意园内(8459 4407)

Sizzler Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite Sizzler invented ‘casual dining’ in Australia uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its HOME GROUNDS when it introduced the first soup, salad, tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads pasta and fresh fruit concept. Since those and brunch options, all served alongside pioneering days, it has expanded its ‘classic some of the best coffee in Beijing. Make Yourself at Home grill’ to include, not only steak and sea- > Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; food, but also delicious chicken dishes, BBQ 798 Dashanzi Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 Since opening earlier this year chill Aussie-inspired cafe Home Grounds has ribs, combination meals and burgers. Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / ‘Variety’ and ‘freedom to choose’ set Sizzler fast become a go-to spot. We love the cafe’s wide-ranging menu – from color- 13051771436); Jianguomenwai Media Center Store: apart from other dining experiences. At ful poke bowls to lip-smacking fish and chips, and its location underneath No.13 Bldg, Jianguomenwai DRC, 1 Xiushui Street, Sizzler customers are free to control the Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街1号建国门外外交公寓13 BaseFit gym also makes it a prime pre- or post-workout fueling station. During volume, nutritional balance and variety of 号楼1层东北角 8532 2633 ；Jianguomenwai DRC a recent weekend visit we devour the limited edition velvet pancakes (the cafe each meal by ordering from the grill and Store: Building 7-1-11, 1 Silk Street, Chaoyang 朝阳 helping themselves to our famous soup, 区秀水街1号建国门外外交公寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / offers special weekend treats to keep things fresh) and the roast vegetable salad, pasta and fruits. 18701092189); FFCStore:-107,B1/F,Fortune Financial salad (RMB40). The decadent yet nourishing mix was killer – and we’ve already >All stores open daily, 10am-10pm ;Wangfujing Center,5 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu,Chaoyang District Oriental Plaza Store 王府井东方广场店 (8518 6315); 朝阳区东三环中路5号楼财富金融中心1层107 (6596 marked down the HG BIGG brekky (RMB80) – sourdough, homemade pork sau- Chongwenmen Glory Mall Store 崇文门国瑞购物中 9108); China Central Mall Store:L315,China Central sage, bacon, eggs, baked beans, hash, mushrooms and spinach – for next time. 心店 (6714 0399); Wangjing Capital Mall 望京凯德购 Mall,Chaoyang District朝阳区华贸中心写字楼三层物中心店 (6471 3876); Wanliu BHG 万柳华联商场店 L315单元 (8588 7978)www.cafeflatwhite.com, cafe- Throw in quality coffee and wine and Home Grounds feels just like, well, home. (8258 9405) Wan Shoulu Crystal Capital Mall 万寿路 fl[email protected], WeChat username: Cafe- > Tue-Sun, 8am-9pm; 39-3 Xingfu Ercun Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福二村39-3 (5747 凯德晶品店 (6826 086); Xizhimen Capital Mall 西直 Flatwhite 门凯德购物中心店Mall (5830 2199); Sanlitun Shimao 5511) Gongsan 三里屯世茂工三店 (8400 4014); Changying Awfully Chocolate Paradise Walk 常营龙湖天街店 (8539 0438); Tianjin Joy City 天津大悦城店 (8728 1620) cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service >Daily 6am-10.30pm, 2/F, EAST Beijing, 22 alone is worthy of worship. Jiuxianqiao Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒 Tomacado 店2层 8414 9820 > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Tomacado is indeed a mash-up of ‘tomato’ Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩 and ‘avocado’ – and while you’ll certainly 祝寺23号 (8400 2232) C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh find these ingredients on the menu, you Mio ¥¥ shells from Canada, South Africa, France, can also expect pleasant drinks, light soups Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with USA and more – and they are well worth and heartier main courses from this charm- a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight to the price. The fries are the best we’ve had ing cafe. Fowers are also available for sale. in Beijing, beer and wine selection also > Daily 10am-10pm (Lunch start from 11am, Only your table.The Chef crafts a superb squash afternoon tea served on Mon-Fri 2.30-5pm), No. tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with excellent. 19/20, B1/F, Jia Ming Center, 27 Dongsanhuan Beilu, desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu. > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路27号嘉铭中心地下一层 >Daily lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm, dinner 5.30pm Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新 19/20号(6500 3354) -10.30pm, Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886) Lu, Chaoyang, 朝阳区亮马桥路48号北京四季酒店 VIC (5695 8888) Alfie’s ¥ (British) Not to be confused with the notorious What’s all this about, then? British gastro- nightclub of the same name, this VIC is Grange Grill ** pub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restau- Born in Located in the Westin Beijing Chaoyang, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club rant. All the major world cuisines are in Singapore, made by hand, using the finest Grange Grill serves up some of the city’s interior, and located in a chic modern art attendance here – make sure you pay ingredients. best steak, seafood and grill offerings. The gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. special attentions to the French-inspired >Daily 9am-10.30pm, 1) Sanlitun: Opposite to BHG, restaurant’s welcoming decor provides a > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served breads and pastries – as is the customary B1/F, Southern area of Taikooli, Sanlitun, Chaoyang relaxing atmosphere to enjoy a cocktail or on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Sunday champagne brunch. 朝阳区三里屯太古里地下一层华联超市对面 (8468 Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 3802); 2) Indigo: B1/F, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao a glass of fine vintage from the extensive > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 8777) Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地下一 wine collection. Be sure to try the ‘luxuri- Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 层 (8426 0917); 3) Joy City Chaoyang: 5/F Joy City ous oyster feast,’ where you can enjoy the 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666) delicacy raw, grilled or with cheese. Bistrot B Chaoyang, Qingnian Lu, Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳北路青年路朝阳大悦城楼悦界区 > Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, Sat and Sun Rosewood Beijing’s exquisite French res- Yi House (Contemporary Western) 5 (8582 11.30am-3.pm; Dinner: Daily 5.30-10.30pm; The taurant is the sort of place chefs like to eat. 2677); 4) Raffles City: B1/F, Raffles City, Dongzhimen, Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great Dongcheng 东城区东直门来福士地下一层 (8409 8038) Westin Beijing Chaoyang 7 North East Third Ring Expect lavish luxury. tasting brunch is bettered only by their Road, Chaoyang 东三环北路7号 (5922 8888) > Daily, 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 1F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) brunches with lobster and champagne. Contemporary Western Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店 Chain of restaurants and one of the longest 3层 (6536 0066) > Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 running with quality ingredients and good Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥 service. One of the mainstays in Beijing. Chi (Organic, Fusion) 路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, Caribeño (Latin) > Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun with organic ingredients all locally sourced. Wood from all over the Latin continent here. The Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 From the owners of neighboring Saffron. >Daily 10.30am-11pm, Lakeside Gourmet Street, 8号楼833 (6417 1318) > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 excellent – as are the Mojitos. 朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾南边湖畔美食街近南边地面 67号 (6445 7076) > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 停车场 5726 8255 Maan Coffee漫咖啡文化体验馆 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中 >Daily 9am-20:00pm;The south gate of Jiangfu COMBAL盉by Tiago 海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789) Stuff’d (Contemporary Western) Park,Half tower road,Chaoyang 朝阳区半截塔路将府公园南门西侧 >127-129, 1/F, Tower C, Cofco Plaza, 8 Jianguomen The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff (5949 8336) Neidajie, Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内大街8号 Grill 79 (Steak) one kind of food in another. From sausage 中粮广场C座一层127-129单元 (6528 2280) With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind ably make it onto the list even if the food all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus. Lin’s Dinning of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then > Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang > Daily 11am-10pm, 2/F, New Grand Dynasty Hotel, that the kitchen is superb, and supported Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308) space, which also has a great selection of 58 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街58号新大 by one of the most extensive wine lists in cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more 宗饭店二层(6500 6766) town. Café/Deli/Sandwich indulgent. > Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am- Feast (Food by East) China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Café Zarah (Café) * 11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Bustling café with a philosophy of ‘Simple Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 A smart new interior and menu for this things, done well’. International favorites, 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424) 6079) ; Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 using freshest ingredients , cooked on the longstanding cafe has propelled it from Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 spot. hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, 朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)

68 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

Ricci wine and healthy drinks inspired by popu- Dongzhimen Nei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门内 be the biggest in town. Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit lar ingredients. 大街277号三楼雍和宫大街和北新桥头条交叉处的四 > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 层商业楼三楼 (6455 3832, 1391 0969 240) (duh), this creative café has a funky, kooky- > All open Daily 10am-late; S2-30, Level 3, S2 Tower, 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, meets-organic vibe and serves up some of 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三 Annie’s ¥ * Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 the best casual western food in town, and 里屯太古里南区三楼S2-30 (6417 4030) ; No.167, Now a certified Beijing institution, Annie’s Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服 a great brunch at the Wudaokou location 1/F, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 serves up the city’s most reliable Italian 装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, (Chaoyang branch closed weekends). 18号1层167号 (8426 0017) ; No.125, 1/F, Bldg 1, fare. Delivery is free anywhere between Sanfeng(North), Chaoyang 朝阳区三丰北里1号楼1层 Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.on- > 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 125号 (8561 2665) ; Unit 15-16, 1/F, Bldg AB, Ocean Line 5 and the the Fifth Ring Road (call for line.thatsmags.com for details) Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 International Center, 10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 delivery prices outside this area), and can 号院清华科技园D座1楼 (8215 8826 ) 区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际中心AB座一层15 16单 be ordered in English between 10.30am German 元 (8590 3168) and 10.30pm from www.annies.com.cn. The Rug (Contemporary Western, Alternatively, drop in to your local branch. Drei Kronen 1308 * Organic) * Mexican/Tex Mex > All open Daily,10.30am-11pm; Beijing Riviera: Authentic (truly – when they say 1308 they With ingredients supplied by local organic opposite west gate of Lane Bridge Villa, Shunyi 朝 mean it) displays of armour and brewing farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) 阳区来广营东路5号长岛澜桥别墅西门对面尚古城一 kits draw regular evening crowds for the emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ 楼 (8470 4768); Lido: Jiangtai Lu, opposite United Family Hospital 朝阳区将台商业街4号楼2楼和睦家 superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles ranging menu has something for everyone, imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed especially green types, bored foreign moms 医院对面 (6436 3735); Wangjing: 2F, beside the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a Daimler Tower, LSH Plaza, 8 Wangjing Jie 朝阳区利星 on-site). and freelance Macbook types. bite of the custardy flan. > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am- 行广场A座戴勒姆大厦裙楼2层近望京商业中心 (8476 >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, 0398); Chaoyang Park: West Gate of Chaoyang Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun 层(6503 5555) Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Park 朝阳区朝阳公园老西门南侧 (6591 1931); Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 Sanlitun: China View Building, opposite East Gate of Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 (6416 5212) Hacker-Pschorr Brauhaus 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional Workers’Stadium 朝阳区工体东门对面中国红街一楼 (8587 1469); Ritan Park: Ritan High Life, 3F, north of If you’re looking for authentic German location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. Taco Bar com for details) Ritan Park 朝阳区神路街39号日坛上街3-108号 (8569 fare and, most importantly, German-style Rising from the ashes of its deceased 3031); The Place: East of the Place, south of Central beer, then you can’t go wrong with Hacker- hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, TRIBE * Park 朝阳区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际中心AB座1 Pschorr Brauhaus. Made from centuries-old popular and able to produce some of the 层 (8590 6428); Guomao: Ruisai Business Building Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle recipes – and in accordance with the 1516 most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only (southest of Guomao subway) 朝阳区东三环南路2 and grain bowls are as tasty as they are German Beer Purity Law – the brews here RMB45 for three and great cocktails to 号瑞赛大厦商务楼1层 (6568 5890); Sunshine 100: are some of the finest in Beijing. Prost! holistic, and there are more superfoods in Guanghua Lu, opposite Sunshine 100 Building 朝阳 complement. > Room 3, Building 3, No 12 ,Xindonglu Chaoyang one single dish than we even knew existed. 区光华路阳光100公寓对面首经贸南门 (858 98366) > Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 朝阳区新东路12号院3号楼3门(5323 3399) Come hungry, leave basking in the warm 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, glow that comes from knowing that you Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 Cepe ¥ are eating well. Kombucha is the icing on Paulaner Brauhaus 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026) In a city inundated with Italian offerings, The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, the (organic, locally-sourced) cake. Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (Korean- attention to the smallest detail – everything hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 Mexican fusion) from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is 体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 provinces. It can be pricey but is usually Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little import quality, and the wine is superb. worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. (8587 1899) > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz- hutong concept is truly one of a kind in > Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibim- Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 Wagas (Contemporary Western) Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街 baps with melted cheese and hot sauce. (6465 3388 ext. 5732) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This 丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666) stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Fresh offers some of the best and most Cali’ cocktails, too. Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays); 14 Florentina 翡冷翠意大利餐厅 affordable Western lunch options in town. Florentina serves authentic Italian fare in 博璨德国啤酒餐厅 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 Brotzeit offers its customers a unique expe- The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352) low-key, yet elegant surrounds. Cuisine is crowd pleaser. high-end, the environment is relaxed. A rience with authentic German cuisine and world famous German beers in a casual en- > Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li Q Mex Bar & Grill beautiful outdoor terrace makes this place South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 vironment. Coupled with its contemporary > Sanlitun Courtyard (across from Salsa Caribe, a godsend for Lido residents. 里屯太古里南区三层 (6416 5829) > Additional loca- setting and unique brand appeal, Brotzeit nearby Bookworm), Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 > Daily 11-late (Kitchen serves until 10pm), 1/F, Bldg tions in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen 机电研究院餐饮街内 6585 3828 2, No. 6 Yard, Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园 is distinct from the traditional-style German (see www.thatsmags.com for details) 西路6号院2号楼1层(8431 0027) restaurants still seen in Germany and other parts of the world. American/BBQ/Grill Mercante ¥ * > Daily 11am-late; F109, Grand Summit, bldg 5, 19 Steak Old World family charm in an intimate Dongfang Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东方东路19号 Eudora Station 亿多瑞站楼(DRC外交办公大楼)一层F109 (8531 5166, www. hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, > (Near Lidu place))No 6,Fangyuanli Chaoyang 朝 Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * brotzeit.co) 阳区芳园西里6号(丽都广场对面)(6437 8331, 6437 Meat so tender the knife falls through it: service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo- 8334) ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide logna offering an assortment of homemade Spanish praise. Expensive, but where else are you pastas and seasonal mains. Home Plate BBQ * going to get steak this good? (Try the > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Agua ¥ * Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098) Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent invasion, Agua excels with reasonably Tiago Home Kitchen barbecue joint, that blossoms in the Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号 priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo Even the most exacting palettes are delight- sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches 丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden ed by TIAGO, whose team prepares globally are the favorites, followed by baby-back Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. sourced ingredients and sustainably grown rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken O’Steak > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 care of, too. A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that produce. TIAGO’s dining experience is dis- Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard rare anymore, and here we have affordable tinctly Italian, but its menu also offers such 园 (5208 6188) (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the classics as Australian steaks and Boston lob- Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口, Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic ster - plus a wide selection of salads, pizza, Casa Talia by Tiago 往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) French bistro – not a Guinness in sight. pasta and desserts. >Daily 11.30am-9pm, 01B, 4/F, Raffles City, 1 Dong- > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see www. > Daily midday-midnight, Xingfu: No.55-7 Xingfucun >Indigo: Daily 11.30am-10pm, Shop L173, Indigo zhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1 thatsmags.com for details) Zhonglu, opposite of April courmet, Chaoyang 朝 Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路号来福士购物中心4层01B 8409 4009 阳区幸福村中路55-7杰作大厦底商绿叶子超市斜对 18号颐堤港购物中心L173商铺(6438 8772); Chaoyang NOLA 面 (8448 8250) ; Central Park: No.o103 building 20, Joy City: Daily 11am-10pm, 5F50/6F, Chaoyang Joy Niajo ¥ * N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the Central Park, No.6 Chaowai Avenue, Chaoyang 朝 City, 101 Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳北路 With homely Mediterranean influences and 101号朝阳大悦城5F50/6F(8558 3892) leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, 阳区朝外大街6号新城国际20号楼103 (6533 6599); a charming management, Niajo is prime shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, shunyi: No.11-102 Shine Hills, No.9 Antai Avenue, Opera Bombana ¥ Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪安泰大街9号祥云小镇南门 11号 paella (their star dish) together with some yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers 楼102 (8048 5080) Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Michelin stars to his name, earned at his tapas and be automatically transported to and cocktails also make NOLA a popular Spain (minus the constant sunshine). watering hole. 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to > Daily noon-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard do so outside of his native land, and cer- (5208 6052) (8563 6215) in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. tainly the only to have opened a restaurant > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: in Beijing. The Big Smoke * Migas ¥ * 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green The boys at Migas have turned a concept Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 bar into a thriving Mediterranean res- upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full 号2层 (6584 6270) 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177) menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie taurant, bar and party venue, and one of chicken via Uncle Otis). summer’s rooftop destinations. Italian Pizza > Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 > Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), Assaggi ¥ * La Pizza 6层 (5208 6061) 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村 This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy Among the upper echelons of Beijing 中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl Asian uncle-otis.com) summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan a return visit. manners. Further branches in Solana and Indian The Woods * > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in New York native-owned, Manhattan-style Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508) Sanlitun 3.3 Raj restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- > Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple Tucked away in musty old building just un- Bene ¥ * 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 derneath the drum tower, this curryhouse than that. Chef Ricci will have you singing like a sopra- 路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582); Solana > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, may look Chinese but everything on the no with his pork ravioli and prize-winning Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang menu is authentic Indian, espcially the No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号 Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳公园西路6号蓝色港 tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and rather fine naan. 新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380) extensive wine selection. 湾3号1层 SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675) Burgers Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995) SH1112号(5900 3112); La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun Blue Frog 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 Ganges Conveniently located above popular Blue Frog is pleased to introduce a creative BOCCA DELLA VERITA¥ (5136 5990) Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid new Drinks Menu. As the new year begins, Good-value homestyle Italian is the order Indian curry house provides the perfect this new menu will wake up everyone’s of the day at this little-known spot in Tube Station post-match culinary accompaniment. Or taste buds with a bevy of specialty and Beixinqiao. Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza original cocktails, mocktails, shots, beer, > Dinner: 5-10pm; Lunch: 10am-3pm; 3/F, 277 quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 69 LISTINGS after eight pints of beer. it when it comes to sake selection and Singapore Seafood hutong setting, friendly owners and great > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2/F, fried delights to munch alongside it. > China World Shopping Mall Branch: Daily 11am- bottle collection. 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门 >Daily 5pm-1am, Ichibangai First Avenue Food 10pm, NL4010, North Area of China World Shopping > Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东城外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional branch in Court, Zaoying Nanli, Maizidian, East 3rd Ring Mall, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国区大菊胡同3号 (6409 3319; www.capitalspirits.com) Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details. Road, Chaoyang朝阳区东三环农展馆北路宾都苑门外大街1号国贸商城北区NL4010 (8595 0251/8595 东侧一层底商一番街内 (137 1692 7543) 0361); Parview Green Branch: Daily 11am-10.30pm, China Bar ¥¥ Indian Kitchen 1/F, Tower C, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Top views from the 65th floor and flash South-East Asian Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地购物中心C drinks are the attractions on offer at this 座1层(东大桥地铁站) ( 8518 8811) hip hotel bar. 4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) Susu (Vietnamese) > Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国 The first step is finding it. Follow that up Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV 门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40) work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- serving up steaming bowls of pho with tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Daily Routine 日常生活 zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough. frequent live indie performances. stews, soups and la Vong fish. Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near the drinks at this establishment change sea- west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡 Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) sonally according to ingredient availability. 同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797) Light cafe fare is available during the day. > Daily 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) Korean Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同34号 (8400 1159) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, Ai Jiang Shan El Nido * it’s something of a niche category, but then This upscale seafood restaurant proves The first hutong hang-out to patent the so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- that chargrill and composure can go fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El style chicken is pricey, but worth it. together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch The go to curry house among Beijing’s Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just is an absolute bargain. homesick Indian community, this ever > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until in summer. The roast leg of mutton place popular no-nonsense restaurant has built east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875) 9.30pm; 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 next door is one of the best locally. up a solid reputation thanks to its wide Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng 东 range of quality dishes and particularly Purple Haze (Thai) 国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (5109 城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089) friendly service. Looking good after a Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches 6036/6037) see www.thatsmags.com for other locations) 大跃啤酒 recent rennovation and very available on and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to Great Leap Brewing ¥ * JinShiSong online delivery. make do for the best Thai experience in The bar that began the whole Beijing mi- > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun town. Has all the classics like veggie spring Vegetarian crobrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25- (6462 7255) Lotus 莲花空间 40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the > China World Shopping Mall Branch: NL4006, North seafood pad Thai (RMB45). peppercorn ale was memorably good. Japanese Area of China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomen Reservations used to be recommended > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝 Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899) for their original hutong brewhouse, but HAGAKI 叶书 * 城北区NL4006 (8527 4868); Financial Street Branch: the opening of a wildly popular new pub Serves up a selection of signature maki Daily 11am-9pm, L220, 2/F, Seasons Place Mall, 2 Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers rolls, as well as classics like tonkatsu, Jinchengfang Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊街2号金融街 Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok of- there instead. tempura and udon, Hagaki specializes 购物中心2层东侧L220 (6622 0515) fering Thai food with a twist and served in in Californian-inspired Japanese cuisine > Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区豆角胡同6号 and has a lively sushi bar. Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) (5717 1399) ; Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu >Daily 11am-2.30pm, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Li Sanlitun then. Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place > Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Jiuxianqiao Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒 started out in Wudaokou and it’s Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B Street 新中街乙12号 (6416 6887, www.greatleap- 店1层 8414 9815 since made a successful migration to (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, brewing.com) (see online.thatsmags.com for details) Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) reasonably priced and they offer cook- First Floor ing classes as well. As much a California roll joint as true Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) First Floor is like that friend who’s too Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite > Daily 10am-10pm; 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, popular to properly enjoy their company. among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with set, though less so among sashimi purists. Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2层 regulars and the passing tourist trade all > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm; 2/F, Heqiao Bldg 0260 (5900 1288)(see www.online.thatsmags. baying at the bar. A good place to meet com for details) C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号 new friends, perhaps. 和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * > Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳 in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine 区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com) www.online.thatsmags.com for details) is by no means the exclusive preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson Heaven Supermarket Inagiku * fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or gled English teachers, Heaven sells the and most celebrated restaurants is as near otherwise – found anywhere in the city. cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You to perfection as you’re likely to find. > Daily 10.30am-11.30pm (last order 10.30pm); 19 can also hang around and appreciate the Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) 19号 (6446 2073) food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. is not to be missed. > Daily 11-4am. 14 Xindong Lu (next to The James > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Joyce), Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 6513) Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生 BARS 活3层315室 (8517 2838) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cook- Hidden Lounge * ing – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS Although frustrating to find, Hidden Sake Manzo * of Chinese, South-East Asian and European About This guide represents our editors’ Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- The barmen here are serious about influences resulting in lots of bold flavors top 40 picks, and includes some That’s work and comfortable seating, suggesting their sake. Boasting one of the best and bright colors. The interiors are just as Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great stocked drinks cabinets in town with loud as the flavors – this place is colorful been personally reviewed by our experts, over 60 different sakes on offer, this prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix – and we love it. Nyonya goes beyond the and scored according to the cuisine, super-cool little eatery is the perfect drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have requisite laksa and satay. experience and affordability. place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. >NL5008, 5/F, North Phase, Bldg 17, China World to call them to find it, though. > Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the Mall, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang 朝阳区双花园 beer-marinated chicken is out of this 朝阳区建国门外大街1号院17号楼国贸商城北区五层 Arrow Factory world. One of the very best and least NL5008 (8415 0863) The newest craft beer taproom on the 南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) appreciated restaurants in town. block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Malacca Legend brimming with good Anglo-Scandinavian Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608 Malaysian food with a view, this spacious vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and Acclaimed by some foreign press as one and airy restaurant sits on the banks of the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales. of the best bars in the world (cough), this Saveurs de Coree Shunyi’s Roma Lake and at a new unit in A winning combination not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard This upmarket Korean bistro has the heart of the city at The Place, making a > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭 of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It undergone several changes in recent great spot for their beef rendang or green 厂胡同38号(6407 6308) serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite years, not least its move away from curry prawns. Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic the hipper-than-thou confines of > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Roma Lake: 6 Luodong Lu, 8-Bit speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu Luogezhuang Village, Hoshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义 Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gam- and unimpeachable cocktails. remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun 区后沙峪镇罗各庄村罗马湖东北三路6号C院 (8049 ing – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang is among the best in Beijing, while the 8902); Signature: Shop L203, 2/F, The Place, 9 Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some 朝阳区工体北路4号院 ( 6503 2757) Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶2 real gems make up an ever-growing col- good to be true. 层L203 (6587 1393) lection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable Jing-A Taproom ** > Daily noon-11pm; 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, RMB25 a glass. In just a few years, these guys developed Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753) Makan Kitchen > Daily 1pm-2am; 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东 from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding A unique restaurant offering varied South- 城区北锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538) publicans with their own range of souvenir Yotsuba ** east Asian flavors and Chinese cuisines. T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-and- It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu Tuck into a buffet featuring regional Asian BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) mortar taproom, which is large, warm and RMB1,000), but what would you expect stations, a dedicated fresh juice bar and The brainchild of local spirits professional sociable, and has up to 16 different beers from some of the best sushi in town? live stations to whet your appetite. With a Douglas Williams, this bar provides the on tap. Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is beautiful private dining room for functions discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, a cut above. or meetings in comfort and style, Makan selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. Sanlitun Kitchen is the perfect venue for a relaxing coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and branch: 2 Sanlitun Bei Xiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区 get-together or a delightful weekend straight-razor shaves. Mao Mao Chong ** 三里屯北小街2号 (6464 2365); Lido branch: 2F, brunch. > 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路 >Mon-Fri, Breakfast: 6-10am, Lunch: 11.30am- between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- 9-3号2层 (8420 0998) 2.30pm, Dinner: 6-10pm; Sat-Sun, Breakfast: 6-11am, Bar), Chaoyang 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, infused vodka drink that’s a long way from Lunch: 12-2.30pm, Dinner: 6-10pm, 2/F, Main Tower, www.bbcbeijing.com) Moscow – are unique infusions using Sui Ka Hilton Hotel, 1 Dongfang Lu, Dongsanhuan Beilu, local ingredients and know-how. Grungey Is this what after-work hangouts are Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路1号北京希尔顿酒 Capital Spirits without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash like in Japan? We’re not sure, but we 店2层 (5865 5020) A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. hope so: This charming izakaya nails bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东

70 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM LISTINGS

城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www. Trouble Bar > Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimen- 心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083) maomaochongbeijing.com) Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 beers. Stocks a large draft selection and 6290); Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back O’Bar Mesh ¥ an even larger selection of bottles. Also Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299) With both a fantastic cocktail menu and Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a does a nice line in creative cocktails, if V Sports one of the finest terraces in the city, NUO late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and Hotel’s O’Bar is a sure bet for classy evening and underground soundtrack draws the located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes drinks in the city. bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to a claim for the champion of Beijing sports >Sun-Thr:6pm-1am;Fri-Sat:6pm-2am;2 Jiangtai days, quite a few old things, too). accommodate any event, meetings, and bars. Lu,Chaoyang朝阳区将台路甲2号(5926 8888) > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, gatherings. > Daily 5.30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688) > 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333) Xian 仙 Chaoyang (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育场东 Bold multi – element bar Xian on the Maggie’s ¥ 路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, Nightclubs ground floor mixes a pub, whiskey bar, live A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of [email protected], www.trouble.bar) music venue and games room into one course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Chocolate vibrant entertainment hotspot. Maggie’s has been providing its special 10 Best Livehouses It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without >Daily 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao comforts for so long, it’s practically a time- mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret Lu,Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号东隅酒店1层 (8414 9810) honored Beijing brand – although it’s also a Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. bastion of Mongolian culture. Great little livehouse near Meishuguan Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. bottles of spirits from around RMB200, BEAUTY & FITNESS South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 cocktails under RMB50 (including the 门 (8562 8142) Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get bored of the drinks list quickly. absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and Black Golden Tanning Studio > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, regular floor shows. 古铜日晒中心 Parlor > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区日 Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 Beijing is hardly the best place to pick up 8969) 坛北路19号 (8561 3988) heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speak- a natural tan. When it finally reaches the warm summer, the sun’s rays struggle easy and you’ll fit right in. School Bar 学校酒吧 * Dada * > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 to penetrate the smog. Thankfully, Black Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135) Golden Tanning Studio is on hand to give fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this too long, but already Dada is the hippest you that golden glow with its quick, safe alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines Mai Bar * and effective technology. With a member- Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. under rock house Temple offer an intimate ship card, enjoy a 50-minute session for Understated hutong hideaway with a long > Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang place to nod along to an eclectic range of list of some of the best cocktails in town. RMB400 and come away with natural, 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947) all things electro from the best names on healthy-looking color. > Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 the underground scene. 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871) > Sanlitun: 11am-9pm, 2/f, Bldg 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Jianghu 江湖酒吧 > Daily 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路三里屯Soho3 This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室 Revolution * 号楼2层217 (5785 3711, [email protected]); is exactly where you’d take that friend from (183 1108 0818) Wangjing: 11am-9pm, Rm T5, 3/F, BOTAI International Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy Building, 36 Guangshun Bei Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia atmosphere is also its downfall – any show Lantern * 区望京广顺北大街36号博泰国际商业广场3层T—5 would be it. The East may be red but their with under 40 people and you’re stuck Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture (8472 2855) cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman. looking through the windows. Hip and Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the > Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars Alona Pilates Studio 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776) keep things low-key enough for the get- known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, Pairing up traditional Pilates with an in- it also makes good drinks and attracts novative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates The Brick home-for-the-babysitter crowd. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, international electronica DJs. offers classes designed to tone and whip A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡同7号 (6401 > Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s you into shape fast. It also provides a find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@ Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场西 personalized experience for all its students, the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey gmail.com) 门向北100米 (139 119 77989) regardless of fitness, strength and or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails flexibility levels. (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Hot Cat Club 热力猫 MIX > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Terminator) are probably needed for the A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀 bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. Cat is the type of hard-working venue that is one of those places in Beijing you have 酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com) > Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 helps cement a city’s music scene. to experience before you leave. Not much Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south is forbidden in this underground hip-hop Narcisse Beauty Brands Encompassed Chaoyang 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子 of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng 东城区方家胡同46号 disco palace and if you don’t leave with One of a kind! A 600 m2 brand-new concept 2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677) (6400 7868) hook-up in tow then you’re doing some- of beauty salon——Narcisse, encompassed The Post Mountain 后山 thing very wrong. The Irish Volunteer > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North with professional brands on skincare, Everything – from the red-faced owner to Built into a man-made hill in the center of Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (6506 9888, manicure and hair removal. Not only can the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged the MOMA Complex, this new addition to 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, [email protected]) we guarantee to give you the highest qual- with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The ity of products and treatments, but also an regret. A good place to down a pint and a Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much The Bar at Migas * impressive one-stop beauty experience. vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its pizza before heading into town, then. A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather Brands inside Narcisse： > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido imported sound system and ramped floor than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one Youngfo: Facial Cleansing Center Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路311 makes for decent sound and sightlines. calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get Clean Out What’s Deeply Buried In Your Skin 号 (6438 5581) > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, the party started. Good-enough cocktails Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng (next to MOMA range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about 10+10: Minimal-Design Nail 东城区东直门外香河园路号当代 The Tree Cinemateque) 1 the music, man. Chic Workaholic’s Luv! A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774) Edelweiss: Laser Hair Removal > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer Latest Technology, Safe&Permanent aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. Temple 坛 * 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061) Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Probably the manliest venue in town, this Deep Facial Cleaning- 880rmb/once dimly lit and unventilated space is owned Vics > 10.30am-10.30pm, Bldg. 1,No.6 West Fangyuan Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and rd, Chaoyang (inside Narcisse Beauty Brands Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors). by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Separated at birth from its identical twin Burger) and known for late sets of hard Encompassed)朝阳区芳园西路6号院1号楼水仙美容品 > Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti 牌集合店内(5365 9418) Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往 rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs sweatbox meat-market chic at its very 西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954) and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis Daisy’s Beauty Salon Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics Since 2001, Daisy’s beauty salon has Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to to become one of the most infamous clubs catered to thousands of Beijing expats and This popular microbrewery has its own the RMB15 draught. in the capital. locals and is renowned for its premium pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, > Daily 8.30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North waxing services and imported wax that Quality ales that change depending on Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼202 (131 Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333) smells like hot chocolate. If waxing isn’t the season, heated floors and a great little 6107 0713) your thing, the salon also specializes in kitchen round out the deal. Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * Hotel Bars an array of other treatments including IPL > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm- We’ve lost more body weight than we’d Facial Rejuvenation and lifting, a 90-minute 1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Atmosphere ¥¥ care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortu- treatment that uses a laser to stimulate Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of nately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop collagen production and soften lines. Laser (6538 5537) the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits and IPL permanent hair removal treatment swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- from across the globe – were worth it. The is also proving popular and effective. Glen ¥ gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat > Daily, 10am-8.30pm, Rm301, Building Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, glands below. B,Sunshine100 International Apartment, Guanghua endured poor service and drinks that are China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东路2号阳光100国际 scandalous at the price), which is located in Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng 东公寓B座301室 (5100 0556 / 0557, www.daisysbeau- a decidedly downbeat compound. But whis- (6505 2299 ext. 6433) 城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711） tysalon.com) ky lovers have been known to swear by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. Sports Bars Centro ¥ Beijing Hikers See for yourself. Although it’s no longer quite the go-to Want to experience the wild, unrestored >Daily 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel The Local * place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- Great Wall, away from the tourist masses? Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区南三里屯 Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly Or do you just want to get out of the city 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) into its own, with large (yet strangely jazz performaces, spacious and recently for some exercise? Beijing Hikers offers unobtrusive) screenings of sports and renovated lounge areas and classic drinks Glen Classic ¥ hikes in the countryside of Beijing every political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and like the blue-cheese martini. week all year round. Hikes for all fitness lev- Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. els! Regular hikes are priced from RMB380, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店1层 Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t with discounts for members. Cost includes bar where discerning drinkers can sink need another. (6561 8833) into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while hiking guide, transportation, tickets, food > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 and water. We’ve also got adventures all away the hours. Huge range of whiskies 体北路4号院 (6591 9525) MEI and rums are personally selected by expert One of the livelier hotel bars in town, over China. > For more information, visit www.beijinghikers.com owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend Paddy O’Shea’s * MEI has a nightly band, serves creatively you something special. An entire Irish-themed pub, which could delicious cocktails and overlooks the CCTV Shang Xia > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, easily been trasnsported, untouched, from ‘trousers.’ Don’t leave without trying the >L118 & 119, L1 China World Mall, China World minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 a back alley in Limerick and gently depos- frightfully delicious Panjiayuan Bramble. Trade Center 1, Jianguomen Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体南路东草园26 ited in central Beijing. With plenty going Mon-Wed 6pm-2am, Thu-Sat 6pm-3am, Sun 5pm- 阳区建国门外大街1号中国国际贸易中心国贸商城1楼号 (6551 6788) on, including pub quiz and sports. midnight; 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, L118 & 119 (6505 3446) Hujialou, Chaoyang District朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 71 LISTINGS

Lily Nails sophistication. Man cut 115RMB up; Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital imported materials, and its professional, Women cut 165RMB up; Color 500RMB up; With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality US-trained staff offers a personalized and Highlight 610RMB up. inpatient facilities, home visits, night ser- private service. > SanLiTun salon: No.43 Building, SanLiTun Beijie vices and transportation assistance, Amcare > Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; 11D, Building D, Oriental South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街南43号楼 provides a trustworthy experience. English- Kenzo Plaza (Ginza Mall), 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, (6409 4243, 1350 137 2971); GuoMao Salon: speaking services include pediatrics, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座D座 209, 2/F, Phase 3 China World Shopping Mall, gynecology and obstetrics. 11D (8447 6092/93, mobile:1326 181 6708, join- Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城北 [email protected], www.dentalcn.com) 区3L209(8535 1002, 1314 667 9913)Catherine > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 de France 路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. Arrail Dental amcare.com.cn) Affiliated with the University of Pennsyl- Catherine de France Beijing United Family Hospital and Clin- vania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class Awarded best expat salon in 2014/ 2015, ics 北京和睦家医院 equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple with a trained team of international and > Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open locations across town and excellent facili- local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm; 2 Jiangtai Road, ties make it one of the best dental provid- salon welcomes all ages and budgets in Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. (5927 7000 / ers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a 5927 7120 Emergency Hotline);United Family CBD services including examinations, whitening, wide range of hair and beauty treatments, Clinic和睦家朝外诊所 Mon-Sat, 9.30am-6.30pm, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and include manicure, pedicure and waxing. Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai implants. Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI Street, Chaoyang, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号万通中心 A long-time favorite among locals and >Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Language: French, English, Spanish, Chi- AB座2层3017室(5907 1266); Jianguomen Health and Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南角京汇大 expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nese, Russian. Wellness Center和睦家建国门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, 厦201室 (6567 5670); Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Build- nail spa; they eyelash services, of pamper- > East Avenue BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm, 21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The ing, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 ing treatments and waxing too. Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层(8442 5120, St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); Rm >U Town store: Daily 10am-22pm, Shop 19B, 4/F, 135 2147 3492, [email protected], 街21号北京国际俱乐部饭店 ( 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan U town Plaza, Chaoyang朝阳区悠唐购物中心一期 Wechat: CDFSalon, www.catherinedefrance.com) Immigration Clinic ); Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所, Nanlu, Haidian 海淀区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯 4层19B号 8561 5875 ; Fulllink store: Daily 10am- Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5.30pm, Sat and Sun, 中心A座308室 (8286 1956); Rm 101, Bldg 16, China 9.30am-4.30pm.Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu 22pm, Shop 29/B1, Fulllink Plaza, Chaoyang朝 Sport Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国阳区丰联广场B1-29 6588 3633 ; Yansha store: Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); Daily 10am-22pm, 09/B1, Ping An International 天竺开发区荣祥广场806号(8046 5432); Shunyi Dental 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Finance Centre, Chaoyang朝阳区平安国际金融 Broadwell International Tennis Academy Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, 9.30am- Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑中心商业B1层9号 5601 9664 ;WDK store: Daily 7.30pm, Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate 1层 (8440 1926) 10am-22pm, Shop16/F4, WDK Shopping store, Center, this indoor club boasts a complete Development Zone, Shunyi 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广 Haidian海淀区五道口购物中心4层1415号 6266 state-of-the-art air-supported structure for 场818号 (8046 1102) ; Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 , Wi-fi SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 6070 ; Heshenghui store: Daily 10am-22pm, all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with internet, Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm, 2nd Floor Grand The full spectrum of dentistry. Services Shop B1-19, Heshenghui Mall, Chaoyang朝阳区 an advanced lighting system and controlled Summit, 19 Dongfang East Road朝阳区东方东路19号 include teeth cleaning, root-canal treat- 合生汇B1层19号 5601 9664 ; Pingan store: Daily climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect 1号楼会所27号外交人员公寓B区官舍16号 (5927 7005 ment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, 10am-22pm, Shop 09/B1, Ping An International their service and batting a few balls. www.uf.com.cn, [email protected]) orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, Finance Centre, Chaoyang朝阳区平安国际金 > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区农南路1号朝 pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth- 融中心商业B1层9号 8444 2483 ; Taiyanggong 阳公园网球中心(400 6406 800/ 6595 8885, www. Raffles Medical whitening and veneers. Credit cards store: Daily 10am-22pm, Shop B1-09, CapitaMall broadwell.cn1) International SOS and Raffles Medical accepted. Taiyanggong, Chaoyang朝阳区太阳宫凯德购物 Group have formed a joint venture to en- >Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. NB210, 2/F, CBD, Guomao, China 中心B1-15A号 8443 0619 ; WeLife store: Daily California Fitness Beijing Club hance and expand the services of its China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外 10am-22pm, WeLife store, Shop B1/F, WeLife Clinics. From March 30 the International 大街1号国贸商城地下2层 (6505 9439/31/93, www. Shopping store, Chaoyang朝阳区远洋未来汇购 California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program SOS clinics in China will be branded and sdmdental.com); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area,F- 物中心B1-116号 8588 6896 ; Wanliu store: Daily is among the best in the region, and with 0186B, Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine 10am-22pm, Shop 19/F4, Wanliu BHG, Haidian海 membership you have access to over 150 operated by Raffles Medical with expanded Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 (6497 淀区华联万柳购物中心4层 8258 9517 ; Hongmei weekly Group X classes and a team of services to all patients and privileged access 2173,6498 2173) ; Mon-Sun 10am-19pm.LB07-08, store: Daily 10am-22pm, Shop 3824-1, Shanghai professional personal trainers in Asia. Your for International SOS members. Patients of Euro Plaza, No.99 YuXiang Road,Shunyi 北京顺义区上海市长宁区老外街虹梅路3824-1号 021-6215 membership also includes free towel usage the clinic will continue to have access to 天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号 (8046 6084); 5192 and a fitness assessment. the same doctors, the same facilities and same level of high quality care. Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang (4008 Liang Maqiao Lu,Sanyuanqiao 亮马桥40号21世纪饭 100-988,www,californiafitness.com) Raffles Medical Group is a leading medi- HAIR SALONS 店2层 (6466 4814, 6461 2745); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. cal provider in Singapore and has been 4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Mall, Yuanda Lu,Haidian 远 Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 operating for 40 years with over 100 clinics Blow+Bar 大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层4076B (8859 6912/13); Cycle China provides organized cycling and and hospitals in Asia. The joint venture is This salon is equipped with more than Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm, Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well committed to maintain the high standard shampoo – the team here provides Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli 北京朝阳区光华 as longer tours throughout China. Some of quality with a focus on innovative and 东里8号中海广场北楼3层05号(5977 2488) haircuts, dye, updos, hair treatments and of their more popular tours take cyclists expanded clinical services and excellent more. With prices for almost everything through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen patient care. United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic listed under RMB1,000, Blow+ is a haven of Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in reasonably priced good taste in Sanlitun’s >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng 东城区景山东街 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源里16号琨莎中心1座105 Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital 3.3 Mall. They have champagne and a well- 12号 (6402 5653 ,139 1188 6524) 室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com) in Lido (which has its own dental clinic stocked bar, so bring your friends and make onsite). A comprehensive range of services a night of it. Heyrobics OASIS International Hospital are at hand, including restorative dentistry >3/F 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun, Chaoyang朝 “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoy- OASIS International Hospital specializes in and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all 阳区三里屯路33号3.3服3/F (for appointments, call ingly smug grin and toned abs. The only serving the expatriate community with the appointments. 5136 5432) fitness craze worth following in Beijing, latest world-class technology and a broad > 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body range of services, all in a pristine facility de- Development Zone, Shunyi 北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, Laurent Falcon workout set to pumping beats – not forget- signed to provide patients with the utmost 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102) ting the fluorescent spandex. Differing comfort, care and privacy. classes for all abilities, check online for the > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am- Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所 full schedule. 12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao > 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 (8529 > www.heyrobics.com, [email protected] 2747, 5985 0333, www.oasishealth.cn) 6618, [email protected], www.vista-china.net) Yihe 42° Hot Yoga 2 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Be- Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Chil- Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric ginners! No previous experience necessary dren’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院 Clinic - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! > Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, > Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to Beiyuan Lu 北苑路小关北里甲2号 (6499 0000. con- Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣 begin your journey into Yoga, so they are [email protected], en.hmcare.net) 和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456 2599; harmonypeds@ available to answer any questions you may ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn) have. It’s a great workout for the body and Hongkong International Medical Clinic, calming for the mind. Call them today on Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所 Beijing Passion International Medical (5905 6067, 8599 7395) > Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau Center > Daily 10am-8pm. 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie 朝阳门 This full-service international clinic Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层 (6553 9752, provides 24-hr general medical care and a 中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www.yh42.com); 6553 2288/2345/6/7; [email protected]; www. patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu hkclinic.com) International Medical Center is equipped Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 with the latest in medical technology and (5905 6065/67, www.yh42.com) DENTAL is designed to support the comfort, safety and privacy of patients. 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BSB of- sori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan The Frontiers School fers an enhanced English National Curricu- children between ages 2 to 6 years old. Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干 lum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to The kindergarten is located in a beautiful 线E座 (8446 7286/7) ;Orchid Garden Campus: 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Mon- Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路号卓锦万代 Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in day to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class Chaoyang 18 (8439 7080); Wangjing Campus: Kylin Zone, Year 10 and 11 and the International Bac- activities also offered. > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十四条50 Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝 calaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year 阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 (5738 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993- 号 (131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; lamaisonmontessoripk@ gmail.com; www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com) 9166/1332 110 6167) ; Rm106, warehouse4, 246,057. Contact our Admissions team to 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu 外马路653 arrange a school tour. Harrow International School Beijing 号4库106室, 近王家码头路 (3376 8308) > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn Shunyi 顺义区安华街9号南侧 (8047 3558, www.brit- Harrow International School Beijing prides MBA & EMBA Schools ishschool.org.cn, [email protected]) itself on its high academic standards, a close-knit school community, a rich extra- Rutgers International Executive MBA Western Academy of Beijing curricular activity program and the quality 京西国际学校 > 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang of its pastoral care provision. Leadership 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 1706, The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is skills are promoted school-wide, with a www.rutgersinasia.com) a creative and innovative IB World School range of enrichment activities to help built upon a solid foundation of core students develop teamwork and creative BBA at BFSU-SolBridge values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, thinking skills, as well as independence and 北京外国语大学国际商学院 Join the friendly and professional team at Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students responsibility. Students graduating from > 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian, 海淀区西三环北 Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin exemplify these values through their aware- Harrow Beijing have won places at a range 路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 for 11 years. ness of the world around them, service to of universities across the world including 6763/8881 8537) > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, others, can-do spirit and commitment to Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 (6413 excellence. WAB graduates are accepted > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, LEMBA 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. into world-class colleges and universities Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 (8610 The Leadership EMBA from the University com.cn) across the globe. 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: 10 6445 3870 ,enquiries@ harrowbeijing.cn) of Maryland Robert H. Smith School of > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang 朝阳区来广 Business is a unique learning experience Hutong School 营东路10号(5986 5588) in Beijing. The program offers world class Learn Mandarin with Beijing’s best Yew Chung International School 耀中国际学校 executive and leadership education from Mandarin school, Hutong School. Our expe- Beijing City International School Located in downtown Honglingjin Park some of the best professors the world rienced teachers will customize your classes 北京乐成国际学校 since 1995, Yew Chung International School has to offer. Every month one of the and help you learn in a fun environment. Located in Beijing’s Central Business of Beijing (YCIS Beijing) offers a truly interna- professors from the University of Maryland >Room 1501, 15/F, Zhongyu Plaza, A6 Gongti Beilu, District, Beijing City International School tional curriculum for children of foreign comes to Beijing to instruct the class for 4 Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦1501室 (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering nationals in China. The school follows the consecutive and Inspiring through Challenge and National Curriculum for England but also > days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; Compassion.” This non-profit, independent Beijing Mandarin School integrates an extensive Chinese language the impact lasts a lifetime. (8526 2528/29, beijing@ co-educational day school offers an inter- rhsmith.umd.edu) Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin and culture program, allowing foreign school is the city’s top institute for teaching national curriculum under the International nationals to get the best out of their time spoken and written Mandarin as a second Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and in China. YCIS Beijing is one of only five language, more than 5,000 students is authorized to teach all three IB programs schools in China accredited by three sepa- GALLERY from over 66 countries and more than 80 (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma rate accreditation organizations and has a companies and embassies have successfully Programme). 100 percent pass rate within the IGCSE and 798 Art District Picks learned with us each year. Also recognized > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区百子湾南 and recommended by BBC News as one of 二路77号 (8771 7171, www.bcis.cn) IB programs. In addition, YCIS Beijing is the the most professional Chinese language only international school in China to receive Galleria Continua * In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua school. Also awarded as the ‘the best Man- Beijing BISS International School the Cambridge Award for Excellence in darin school in Beijing’ by That’s Beijing is the international gallery. Their ware- 北京BISS国际学校 Education from the University of Cambridge magazine. house space is a forum for high-caliber art- > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang 朝阳区 International Examinations. >E-Tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, ists from nearly every continent, including 安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss.com.cn) > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang 9/F E-tower building 数码01大厦904-905 (6508 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731,www. several of China’s artistic nobility. 1026/1126); Guangming Hotel School (embassy ycis-bj.com) > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, 2 area): Room 0709, 7/F, Guangming Hotel (near US 3e International 北京3e国际学校 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2 >9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四 embassy) 光明饭店7层0709室美国大使馆附近 (8441 Kindergartens 号798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacon- 8391, [email protected], www. 德公园旁) (6437 3344 , www.3eik.com) tinua.com) beijingmandarinschool.com, Skype ID: beijing- The International Montessori School of House of Knowledge International Kinde Mandarinschool1998, Wechat: BJMS-Etower) Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 garten (HOK) Long March Space Founder and curator, Lu Jie abides by The Bridge School 北京桥汉语言学校 Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully House of Knowledge International >The Bridge School Head office, Room 503, 5/F, registered international Montessori school. kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both exacting standards from both the 20-odd Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝 The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Shunyi and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Chinese artists he represents and the 阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室(186 1244 1282 Mandarin/English program geared towards Kindergarten program for children aged 10 overall design of his topical and uncompro- Grettchin) helping students achieve fluency in either months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students mising exhibitions. International clout was language from an early age. Curriculum are treated as competent learners and the inevitable. Beijing Juncheng Language School aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a school emphasizes critical thinking and col- > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Road, 北京君诚语言学校 high teacher-student ratio and impres- laboration skills, in an environment where Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5978 9768, www.longmarchspace.com) > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, sive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, the Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳 - RMB177,000/year. Shunyi location also has a elementary school 门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 Pace Beijing > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区香 starting from grade 1 in September 2014. 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, With locations in New York, London and 江北路甲2号院8号楼 (6432 8228 ext. 800, www.msb. > Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙 edu.cn, [email protected]) Quanfa compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xi- 路古城段15号 (8049 0307) District 朝阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 aogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg, Beijing World Youth Academy 8452, www.hokschools.com);Victoria Gardens Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt, The Bridge School 北京世青国际学校 Campus: 15 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is 北京桥汉语言学校 District 朝阳区朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公 idealized for. Go there! > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an international school for students of all na- 寓(6538 2624, www.hokschools.com) > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号 District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 tionalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs 大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com) on its campuses conveniently located in EtonKids International Kindergarten (15321793321 Grettchin) 伊顿国际幼儿园 Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School > LidoRoom C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Space Station International Schools since 2001, BWYA values holistic education Jichang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽 Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, and seeks to give students ample oppor- 都广场 (6436 7368 www.etonkids.com) ;3/F, Space Station presents a younger genera- Canadian International School of Beijing tunity to develop as globally-aware critical Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, tion of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to 北京加拿大国际学校 thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 have a good curatorial understanding of Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of activities are offered to further enrich ( 6506 4805) ; Southwest corner of Beichen space and high-quality 2D work. downtown Beijing, the Canadian Interna- student life. Graduates of BWYA have been Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 > Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art tional School of Beijing (CISB) opened its accepted at prestigious universities around 北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角(8437 1006); District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术 doors in September 2006. This world-class the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB Kehui Lu, Chaoyang, Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大区中一街 (5978 9671) facility offers an internationally recognized 100,000- 140,000/year. 屯里社区(8480 5538) ;Bldg 19, Central Park, 朝阳区朝外大街 Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP educa- > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang 6 Ullens Center for Contemporary Art Chaoyang Inside 94 Middle school 北京市朝阳号新城国际19号楼 (6533 6995); Palm Springs Filling the largest factory space in 798 with tion. The Canadian International School International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park of Beijing develops the whole child in an 区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 Chinese and international art, the UCCA has 3478/0649, [email protected], www.ibwya.net) Nanlu Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈 the curatorial power and financial backing environmentally sensitive school within a 泉国际公寓 (6539 8967); Bldg 21, Guangqu kind, caring community to become a citizen to put together some of Beijing’s most Beijing Mandarin School Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng东城区 of the world. 广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 (6749 5008); Baoxing impressive exhibitions. Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin > RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 Art > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路38 School is the city’s top institute for teaching International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang朝阳号 (6465 7788,www.cisb.com.cn) 区望京宝星园国际社区2期 (8478 0578); Block 1, District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙 spoken and written Mandarin as a second 桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca.org.cn) language, more than 5,000 students Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪罗 Springboard International Bilingual 马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座(8047 2983); from over 66 countries and more than 80 Tang Contemporary Art School 君诚国际双语学校 companies and embassies have successfully 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大 Springboard International Bilingual School 望路甲20号首府社区内 (5870 6779) Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installa- learned with us each year. Also recognized tion and curatorial theory. With locations is a place where children, staff and parents and recommended by BBC News as one of Beanstalk International Bilingual School in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang work in partnership to enable all their the most professional Chinese language 青苗国际双语学校 students to realize their full potential. They school. focuses on promoting artistic exchange > Kindergarten: 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao throughout East Asia. are offering a stimulating and full inter- > E-tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 9/F E-tower Building E数码世界9层904-905(6508 > Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 national curriculum as well as an exciting (6466 9255); Primary School: Block 2, Upper Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒 after school program, which will include 1026/1126); Guangming Hotel School (Embassy East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 Area): Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel(near 仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www. Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and 东四环北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951);Middle atngcontemporary.com) football. U.S Embassy) 光明饭店7层0709室美国大使馆附近 & High School : 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang朝阳区 (84418391, [email protected], www. > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, 南十里居38号 (8456 6019)

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Road, Chaoyang District Beijing北京市朝阳 11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 A traditional compound of quadrangle Other nearby leisure attractions include 区青年路7号达美中心1号楼 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District composing of 5 courtyards which lies in Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife Tel: 86-10 8585 2211 (8:30am-5:30pm) 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 district. the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel 86-10 8585 2888 (5:30pm-8:30am) > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street building is famous for its imperial living Fax: (86-10) 8585 2666 Pacific Century Place Dongcheng District Tel: 8405 3888 taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of website OakwoodAsia.com 北京盈科中心 nearly 170 years. The original owner of this THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers Ascott Raffles City Chengdu large private house was the Grand General Stadium Road, Chaoyang District The Westin Executive Residences at The > No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road, SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China carried out top official duties, such as Beijing Financial Street offer an array of Post code: 610041,Telephone:(86-28) 6268 defense minister. world-class cuisine options and Westin’s Parkview Green 2888 ,Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889 ,GDS > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436, Fax: (86 10) 6403 signature amenities designed to elicit 北京侨福芳草地中心 Code: AZ, Reservations Telephone:400 820 0418 , Address:No.22 Banchang Lane , personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the 15/F, Office Building A Parkview, Green, 1028 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 Kuanjie, Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板 airport, the Westin Executive Residences No.9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District Email:[email protected] 厂胡同22号 www.the-silk-road.com, E-mail: provides direct access to Beijing’s business, 北京市朝阳区东大桥路8号芳草地办公楼A座 [email protected] entertainment and shopping district and 15层 Ascott Riverside Garden Beijing close proximity to cultural landmarks such With a stunning east-meets-west Marriott Executive Apartments as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen China Life Tower architecture, the residence provides Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing Square. Each apartment is also fitted with 北京中国人寿大厦中心 spacious studios, area where the prestigious business, contemporary furnishings, fully equipped 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 stylish one-bedroom apartments as well commercial, entertainment, and shopping kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District as unique two-bedroom penthouses and center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, entertainment system and LCD flat screen 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大 luxurious three-bedroom premiers. Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments televisions. 厦5层 The lifestyle amenities and unparalleled reflects an exceptional level of luxury. > Email: [email protected] recreational facilities offer the residents > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial China Life – West various options for relaxation and District Tel: 6564 9999 Tel: 6606 8866 北京中国人寿大厦-西 entertainment West, 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 > No.33A Zhou Zhuang Jiayuan Dongli, The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District Chaoyang District, Beijing Fortune Plaza BUSINESS CENTER 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing 厦5层西区 Telephone Number: (86-10) 8783 1666 Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室 Website: www.ascottchina.com Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of •Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year IFC Email:[email protected] the Beijing CBD which bears the most •Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people 北京财源国际中心 momentously potential of development •Prices from RMB180 per month Beijing Kerry Residence 10/F, IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai and value elevation. While 25 minutes away •Find more on Regus.cn Whether you’re a single business executive Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国 from the Beijing International Airport, the •Tel: 400 120 1207 门外大街甲8号财源国际中心东座10层 or a busy family, Beijing Kerry’s fully- Millennium Residences is walking distance furnished 1, 2 and 3-bedroom apartments from nearly all Embassies. >> BEIJING (20 LOCATIONS) << Prosper Center will feel just like home. As well as > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang 北京世纪财富中心 enjoying all the comforts of modern living District. Tel: 8588 2888 Lei Shing Hong Plaza [New] 6/F, Tower 2, Prosper Center, No.5 Guang – including a well-equipped kitchen, 北京利星行广场 Hua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区 entertainment systems, high-speed Oak Chateau Beijing 5/F, Tower C, Lei Shing Hong Plaza, No.8 光华路5号世纪财富中心2号楼6层 broadband and much more – residents are Oak Chateau Beijing has 236 stylish and Wangjing Street, Chaoyang District just moments away from the Kerry Centre’s contemporary fully serviced apartments 北京市朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场C座5层 Financial St. Excel Centre shopping mall and sports facilities. The rest from studio, one-bedroom, two-bedroom, 北京金融街卓著中心 of the CBD is on your doorstep too. three-bedroom and four bedroom suites Sun Dong An Plaza [New] 12/F, Financial Street Excel, Centre, No.6 >1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路1 available, measuring 64 to 260 square 北京新东安广场 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng District 北京市号 meters. There is a 24-hours guest reception, 7/F, Office Tower 2, Sun Dong An Plaza, 西城区武定侯街6号卓著国际金融中心12层 (8535 6888, www.beijingkerryresidence. and housekeeping is offered twice a week. No.138 Wangfujing, Avenue, Dongcheng com) Nestled within the landscaped gardens District 北京市东城区王府井大街138号新东 NCI Centre of the Ocean Express commercial and 安广场写字楼2座7层北京新华保险大厦中心 Lee Garden Service Apartments residential complex, Oak Chateau Beijing 15/F, NCI Tower, No.12A Jianguomenwai A newly renovated high-end premier living is very close to the third Embassy Area Zhongyu Mansion [New] Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国北京中宇大厦 residence in a central location next to the and shopping and dinning services at the 门外大街甲12号新华保险大厦15层 6/F, Zhongyu Mansion, No.6 North Workers shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Beijing Lufthansa Center. There are only 19 Stadium Road, Chaoyang District Taikang Financial Tower Wangfujing, suites range from studios to kilometers to the Beijing Capital Airport. 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦6层北京泰康金融大厦 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) >北京市朝阳区东三环霞光里66号远洋新干线 and are tastefully furnished with specially 23/F, Taikang Financial Tower, No.38 East D座邮编 100027 Diplomatic [New] selected materials. Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 北京市 Block D, Ocean Express, 66 Xiaguang Li, 北京亮马桥外交办公大楼 > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng 朝阳区东三环北路38号泰康金融大厦23层 Third East Ring Road, Chaoyang District, 17/F, Tower E, Liangmaqiao, Diplomatic (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区 Beijing 100027, P.R.C Office Building, 3rd Embassy District, Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower 王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); Tel: (86-10) 84465888 Fax: (86-10) 84465999 Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区第三使馆区北京中关村欧美汇大厦 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, Email [email protected] 亮马桥外交办公大楼E座17层 7/F, Metropolis Tower, No.2 Dongsan Street, [email protected], www. Website: www.oakchateau.com lgapartment.com) Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District 北京 Oakwood Residence Beijing Kerry Centre - South Tower [New] 市海淀区中关村西区东三街2号欧美汇大厦7层北京嘉里中心-南楼 FraserSuite CBD Beijing Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 10/F, South Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Servcorp The ultimate luxury in apartment living, fully equipped luxury apartments ranging Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District Smart businesses understand that flexibility Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style from studios to four bedroom penthouse 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心南楼10层 is the future of the workplace. They choose and comfort, that surpasses the service and terrace apartments, all exquisitely the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow level of many Beijing hotels. The 357 furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each Landgent Building [Coming Soon] their businesses, run critical projects and Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art 北京乐成中心 give their people flexibility. contemporary concepts designed for luxury air purification and air conditioning system 5/F, Block A, Landgent Center, No.20 East Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 living. which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, Middle 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang District Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe 北京市朝阳区东三环中路20号乐成中心A座5层东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. Tel: 5908 6000 easy. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang China World Tower 3 GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING District, Beijing 100027, China 北京国贸三期 One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Need flexible and affordable ready work- [email protected] 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 space to enhance your business or register Residence is located beside the third ring Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District a representative office for your temporary road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座 projects in Beijing? We have the perfect 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is 15层 solution. Located within a Grade-A building also within easily reach of CBD, embassy Oakwood Residence Damei Beijing in the popular Lufthansa Business Area, area, Financial Street and other urban The only serviced apartment in the city that China Central Place our work-spaces provide you, or your

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WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 75 tj Tianjin reviews, events and information EVENTS

Yoga Meditation Thanksgiving Dining The Shake Mary / Drinking

It’s Thanksgiving time and Sheraton Tianjin Hotel is giving thanks by offering diners a special Thanksgiving dinner set and buffet. The former is a traditional feast including roast turkey with cranberry sauce and Champagne, while the latter includes a chestnut-stuffed turkey, gammon ham and seafood feast (oyster, scallop, South American Tianjin has a rep for being a chill, some shrimp, New Zealand mussels, sashimi would say ‘slow,’ city. While this may be and more). true, especially compared to its neigh- Thu Nov 23, 6-9.30pm; RMB268 (buf- bor Beijing, living, it ain’t easy, and fet, per person), RMB488 (set din- sometimes even Tianjinren need a little ner, two persons); Sheraton Tianjin something to calm down and relax. Hotel, Zijinshan Lu, Tianta 天塔区紫 Thankfully WE Brewery is looking out 金山路 for you: The craft beer purveyors hold We always love to relax and enjoy the view at River Lounge, at the St. Regis Tianjin. weekly yoga sessions on their build- But we’re especially looking forward to it this November, with a special drink: the Iran Streets: Tales of ing’s top floor. Practicing yoga is fun at Iran Photography Shake-Mary. WE Brewery, with its brightly colored An innovative new Bloody Mary creation, the Shake-Mary is a fun twist on the walls and energetic teachers. Even bet- classic tomato-based drink. River Lounge’s mixologists are serving several variations, ter? Classes are free. We told you the with a special menu created by St. Regis hotels in destinations around the world – all bar was looking out for you. to relaxing backdrop of live jazz music. There are six – yes, six – different Shake-Marys Thursdays, 10.30am; WE Brewery, 4 for you to try. So bring your friends and enjoy the view. And then, say ‘Cheers.’ Yiheli, Xi’an Dao, Heping 和平区西安 River Lounge, 1/F The St. Regis Tianjin, 158 Zhangzizhong Lu, Heping 张自忠道怡和里4号 (186 3088 8114) 路158号天津瑞吉金融街酒店1/F (022 5830 9958)

Liu Ruiqi Gig Jianghu College Theater

Shanghai-based singer Liu Ruiqi (AKA Richael) found fame through reality TV A series of works showcasing vivid show The X Factor in 2013. Since then photos of the streets of Iran, taken by she’s been melting hearts with her Tianjin-based photographer Mattia sultry voice and guitar playing. Liu hits Gobi. In the photographer’s own A comedy drama about a ragtag group of students – which includes a ‘fake’ up Tianjin as part of her 2017 National words, the exhibition is “a portrait of a fu’erdai and a girl looking for a real fu’erdai – at the eponymous university. Tour, where she’ll play a mix of classics Developing Freedom.” The exhibition The college typically accepts ﬁve new cohorts each year, however, this year and new songs. runs indeﬁnitely. six invitations are mysteriously sent. Which student is a liar and conned their Fri Nov 10, 7.30pm; RMB380-580; Sun-Tue, 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 5pm- way in? A raucous show with themes of deception, martial arts and educa- The Hall of Dongli, 59 Yuejin Lu, 2am; WE Brewery, 4 Yiheli, Xi’an tion, Jianghu College is a must-see. Dongli 东丽区跃进路59号 (tickets via Dao, Heping 和平区西安道怡和里4号 Thu Nov 16-Sun Nov 19, 7.30pm; RMB80-1,080; Binhu Theater, Huanhuzhong piao.damai.cn) (186 3088 8114) Dao, Hexi河西区环湖中路 (tickets via piao.damai.cn)

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 77 due to their enlarged travel experiences, their We offer great Room Packages, like the River expectations are getting higher. We have to be Cruise Autumn Escape. We also have an amaz- A WEALTH OF very creative and at the same time consistent in ing Family Fun Room Package for parents and order to increase the number of new customers their children. that we can convert to loyal guests in the future. The joyous tradition of the Christmas tree lighting ceremony is an anticipated event – it EXPERIENCE What changes will you bring to The St. Regis marks the beginning of the festive season in Tianjin? Tianjin where we will offer a Christmas Hamper, The St. Regis Tianjin GM At The St. Regis Tianjin I have the exciting op- Christmas-themed Afternoon Tea, Christmas portunity to further develop all areas of the brunch and much more. The team at The St. Dario Pithard Brings Passion hotel. I will build and inspire a strong team of Regis welcomes every reader to come and cel- talented staff around me, so that together we ebrate with us. and Expertise to the Iconic are able to meet and exceed all our stakehold- ers’ expectations. The St. Regis Tianjin; 158 Zhangzizhong Lu, Heping Location 和平区张自忠路158号 (022 5830 9999) Many Beijingers head to Tianjin for a geta- Welcome to Tianjin! Have you had time to ex- way. Why should they choose The St. Regis plore the city? Tianjin? Since I started working at The St. Regis Tianjin, my I can proudly say that we have the best location highest priority has been working closely with my in Tianjin – just beside the famous Hai River. A team of fantastic talented staff in order to fully un- number of important historic and cultural loca- derstand how the hotel is operating and how we can tions as well as high-end dining and entertain- improve our product and services for [our] guests. ment venues are also within walking distance. Besides this, I’m sure that my family and I will find Nearby cultural locations include Ancient the time to explore the city in the weeks ahead. Culture Street, Porcelain House and Italian-Style Town. The address – so close to the railway You have decades of hospitality experience station – and creative packages [offered by the in both China and abroad. What trends have hotel], ensures that every customer will enjoy you noticed about China’s hospitality industry The St. Regis Tianjin. compared to elsewhere? Do you have any special events or offers I am of the opinion that the hospitality industry is coming up at The St. Regis Tianjin you can growing extremely fast in China. The number of share with our readers? Chinese tourists is growing from year to year and

GLASS HALF FULL Half Bed and Terrace is Your Best Bet For Quality on a Budget

Located in the center of Tianjin, Half Bed and Terrace offers a taste of the Mediterranean. Half Bed and Terrace is the hot girl we never thought would talk to us on holiday: beautiful, playful, and put together in such a way we stop to say, “Just how does she do it?” Half Bed and Terrace feels like home, if home is a pretty villa in the heart of the city. Half Bed and Terrace is everything we want in a holiday stay: convenient, attractive and accessible. The surrounding area has plenty of yummy dining options, and transport to and from the hostel is easy, as it’s just off Line 3 of the metro. A five- minute saunter gets you to Wudadao, but don’t be for the night, you just might forget you’re in China. surprised if you’re tempted to spend the night in. The With Mediterranean decor this convincing, you can terrace bar is perfect for a beverage and a good chat. almost feel the Aegean breeze brush your cheeks. Half Bed and Terrace hosts parties regularly, so min- gle with friends and enjoy the ambiance. 120 Harbin Dao, Heping 和平区哈尔滨道120号 (022 When you’re finally ready to stumble to your room 2723 0606)

78 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2017 | 79 NOVEMBER That’s BeijingHoroscopes Finally, a horoscope that understands your life in Beijing. by Noelle Mateer

Scorpio Sagittarius Capricorn Aquarius 10.24~11.22 11.23~12.21 12.22~1.20 1.21~2.19

It’s Scorpio season. Live your best life You will have an incredibly fortuitous Don’t go to Tianjin on a Wednesday. Something from your past will with a new winter wardrobe, or just November if you sign up for our email Only travel to Chengde on weekends. haunt you – your past life boozing a nice pair of socks. They sell them newsletter at thatsmags.com/beijing. Don’t book sleeper trains if you don’t in Wudaokou, that is. Romeo, your at the Dongzhimen subway station Yeah, we just plugged ourselves in our plan on sleeping. Best to avoid travel partner on that project about the Qing sometimes. own horoscopes. Don’t wear red on a this whole month, actually. dynasty you did for study abroad, will full moon. make a sudden reappearance.

Pisces Aries Taurus Gemini 2.20~3.20 3.21~4.20 4.21~5.21 5.22~6.21

If you board a rickshaw on the 13th Don’t paint your nails on days when You will receive several calls from Naughty Gemini – you swapped germs you will fall off the back of it. If you the AQI is above 150. kuaidi delivery men – even though with a sweaty stranger at Dada’s board a rickshaw on the 25th you will you haven’t ordered anything. These Halloween party again this year! This fall in love with the driver. packages are inauspicious – never is why you’re currently suffering from touch them. a sore throat and head cold. Take it easy at Thanksgiving.

Cancer Leo Virgo Libra 6.22~7.22 7.23~8.23 8.24~9.23 9.24~10.23

Relax. Fall is your season. All your You’re the type of person who will You’re feeling sad and overwhelmed. You’ve been single for a very long relationships are fine. You know walk out on Houhai even when there’s Here’s what the stars prescribe: A night time. So long, that it’s time to ask your what? Drink more. Dawdle. Your just a tiny veneer of ice. Stop being under blankets, with a glass of Great neighborhood busybody if she knows Didi driver will wait for six minutes that person. Do not interpret this Wall red wine and Wolf Warrior 2. of any eligible matches. You will go without yelling at you. month’s cold snap as an opportunity on several dates at which she will be for you to show off. present.

80 | NOVEMBER 2017 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM SHANGHAI and the challenges they face in RUMOURS China. An Expatriate’s Journey Although there have been discus- sions about challenges of East to to China and Beyond West migrations, few have writ- Written by Christine Velde ten about the difficulties of moving from the West to the East. Yet these migrations are becoming more frequent due to globaliza- 24 SOLAR TERMS tion and advancements in technology. Shanghai Rumours helps FAIRY TALE to shed a light on this subject. A Talking Picture Book Translated and Edited by Berenice Zandonai This book illustrates the experiences of both Chinese and Two years ago, Chinese friends of French Western expatriates and their writer Berenice Zandonai sent her some il- contributions to life and work lustrated postcards about the 24 solar terms in Shanghai. Philosophical and in Chinese culture, and she was immediately literary themes such as loss, at- inspired by their fantastic story. By following tachment to place, freedom and the journey of the young protagonist, she felt transformation are highlighted like she traveled through the four seasons and throughout, along with photos felt the magic of each change in the weather depicting the daily life and his- throughout the year. tory of Shanghai. Poetry was con- Shanghai Rumours explores sidered integral to the writing of After sending some of these postcards to her a 10-year period in the life of the memoir because it provides a friends in France, she decided to search for ‘Kristen,’ an Australian expatri- more layered and visual meaning the entire collection, and managed to contact ate in Shanghai. Living in a for- than prose alone could express. Jorsir, a young and talented Chinese illustrator eign country is a transformative who created the postcards and proposed to experience, which brings op- Interviews were carried out with translate the content into English. portunities for discovering new expatriates (strategists, entre- things about other cultures and preneurs, artists, architects and Later, the two of them decided to make these oneself. However, living abroad writers) in Shanghai and Hong beautiful illustrations of 24 solar terms into presents many challenges. Kong during May 2012, and are a Chinese-English bilingual picture book, so Shanghai Rumours emphasizes reported in narrative form to that people around the world could learn the importance of the freedom include events and people that more about traditional Chinese culture and to choose and create one’s life, shaped the city. These stories the wonderful stories behind the differ- to take risks and to live outside reveal what it’s like to live there ent seasons. Thanks to the help of China the box. as Westerners, and how this ex- Intercontinental Communication Press, the perience transforms them on a book is now available in both Chinese-English This literary memoir explores personal level. and Chinese-French versions. the reasons why the Australian protagonist, and others from For Velde, writing this memoir Australia, Europe and the UK was a cathartic process that choose to live and work in a very helped her see the experience of different culture from their own, living abroad in a new light.

To Purchase these books, please call 010 8200 5927

62 | november 2017 | www.thatsmags.com