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Kadavu Group

Kadavu Group

KADAVU GROUP Kadavu Group Group Kadavu 224 © LonelyPlanetPublications negotiate to use the areas for diving, surfing orfishing.negotiate tousetheareas fordiving,surfing of localproducetothemainland.Eachvillagehasitsownfishing grounds,andresorts the highestpeakat838m. that itisalmostcutinthree bydeepbays. The impressive (MtWashington)is Nabukelevu a numberofsmallerislands. The mainislandisirregular inshapeandsodeeplyindented diving inthePacific. the groupandhooksitswayarounduppermostislands,providing someofthefinest muskparrot.The Great Kadavu Astrolabebirdlife Reefskirts thatincludesthecolourful The lush,pristinerainforests, arichanddiverse especiallyontheeastern side,support are calmvisitorsare rewarded withsecludedswimmingcoves trekking. andspectacular and thegroupcanfallprey tounforgiving weather. Butwhenthesunshinesandseas the promiseofatrulysecludedstay. oftraversing theperimeterislands’ flawlesscomplexion.Forvisitors,theeffort isoffset by of roadsandinfrastructure tosmallboatsandmaintainsthe largely confinestransport from theruggedshoreline hintingatanuntamedinterior. It’smore thanahint;dearth below ’s southerncoastinaflourishofemeraldgreen. Steep verdant banksrise Unspoilt andwithpositively prehistoric landscapes,thisgroupofislandssitssome100km

HIGHLIGHTS Kadavu’s 72villagesorsettlementsrely largelyKadavu’s onsubsistence agriculture andtheexport (’sThe groupcomprisesof ),oval-shaped fourth-largest Ono,Galoaand Prevailing southeasterly windsbatter theexposed southeastern sideofthemainisland

Getoffshore andtourtheislandsby Dive withthemantaraysandsharksat thebreaks off Surf Indulgeata Ignore an thetideandtake Waitforlow tideand Meet thelocals Dive thekaleidoscopic orsnorkel POPULATION: 12,000 kayak Naiqoro Passage ( p226) 72 villages (p226) top-end lodge ( opposite ); spendanafternoon inoneofthe ( opposite ) Cape Washington

trek ( opposite ) astretch ofthecoast (p227) inland hike

( opposite ) Washington Cape

AREA:411 SQKM ( opposite ) ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ Astrolabe Great Reef Passage Naiqoro foot, butof littleinterest totravellers. iseasytoget the east.Vunisea aroundon to tothewestandNorthBay Bay the hill)andairstrip. Itisonanisthmuswith (allonthetopof postoffice,hospital station, ministrative centre, withtheisland’spolice The smalltownof isKadavu’sVunisea ad- ORIENTATION www.lonelyplanet.com waterfalls and mainlyby hiking trailsused haveThe mountains rainforests, numerous Hiking watchers. for nature lovers, divers, hikers andbird- Remote andrugged Kadavu isagreat place ACTIVITIES fromApriltoAugust. be rough covers, life jackets orradios.Theweather can transfers to/fromtheairstrip often don’thave bybudgetThe smallboatsused resorts for iserratic;flyinstead. andthetimetable rough The ferry triptoKadavu fromSuvacanbe Dangers &Annoyances airstrip. This on topof thehill,ashortwalkfrom the postandtelephone are offices The Vunisea Post &Telephone you are atthebudget staying resorts. cards butbringcashwithyouespeciallyif Someresortsfrom Vunisea. acceptcredit Most of theresorts inKadavu are distant Money Vunisea’s Services Medical Police helicopterservice. Suva byMedivac fromthebendscanbetransferredSuva) Diverssuffering to [email protected]; Sts, ChamberFacilityFiji Recompression Emergency INFORMATION island, alsohasapostoffice. Kavala atthenortheastern end of Bay, the some groceries,clothesandstationery. sells Kadavu. soifyoureallythough, feel unwellescape are fairlylimited Services health services. of a$7millionproject toimprove Kadavu’s 1996, withthehelpof Australianaid,aspart ( % 333 6007) hospital branch

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( h 333 6008) 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) wasopenedin ( % 885 0630; also for itsfamous Most travellers are attracted toKadavu Diving tion onvillage etiquette). your shoulders (see p36 formore informa- remove yourhatanddon’tcarrythingson the so whenvisitingavillage, asktospeak The isolated villagers are very traditional lage makes forascenicwalkatlowtide. ResortandTiliva vil- Beach Waisalima beforehand. Thestripof coast your ownbutasklocalsifatrackisclear between often on actasguidesoryoucanheadoff there Eco-Resort andNagigiaResort.Staff the interior fromTiliva Resort,Papageno school children. There are goodtreks into PADI OpenWater Coursecosts$590. divesOne-/two-tank cost$105/165anda ray,caveing excellentmanta andsharkdives. the SosoPassage toNaiqoroPassage, featur- Water Course costs$130/600. ite excursion. dive/PADI A two-tank Open feeding intheNaiqoroPassage isafavour- Sharkconditions andwhatyouwanttosee. intoaccountweather the bestsites, taking ledgeable instructors, whowilltake youto Waisalima BeachResort costs $170/600. dive/PADIA two-tank OpenWater Course prevailing windsthantheAstrolabe Reef. of theislandandmore sheltered fromthe which are about5kmfromthewestcoast A favourite reefs, hauntistheNamalata has fastboatswithuptofourdives perday. Sunrise charges dive, $155 foratwo-tank and equipment andinstructors: diving sites, see diving sites, see p62 . 70m. Formore informationonKadavu’s dive, andvisibilitycanrange from15mto often dictateswhich sites are to suitable toterrific. Theweatherquitedisappointing ing onthereef isvariable,rangingfrom including lotsof reef div- sharks. However, andawonderfularrayofoffs marinelife, coloured soft andhardcorals,vertical drop- nearby NaiqoroPassage. brilliantly Expect skirts theeastern sideof thegroup,and Papageno Eco-Resort Dive Kadavu Kadavu Dive Two budget resorts thatoffer divingare Matava Resort Resort Matava The followingthree outfitshave excellent turaga-ni-koro

( % KADAVU GROUP••Orientation 333 7555)

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% ( % Great . Thelatter runsdives to 331 7780;www.divekadavu.com) (hereditary chief) first, (hereditary chief) 330 5222)

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Astrolabe Reef Astrolabe ( % 330 3355) offers dives from 331 7281) hasknow- , which , which Albert’s Albert’s 225

KADAVU GROUP KADAVU KADAVU GROUP blown out. has powerfulsurf,butthewaves often get rillo Sea Sea rillo Kayaking is fromMay –contact toSeptember fororganised kayakingtripsThe season Kayaking Sea year-round. of Kadavu. Itgets plentyof swellactivity Washington Cape The bestsurfinginKadavu isfoundaround Surfing beforehand. should check yourequipmentthoroughly dive island. Atwo-tank costs$145butyou weather, sites onthesheltered side of Ono the NaiqoroPassage and,duringrough 226 which requires less exertion andisdesigned fers family-friendly expedition, a seven-day resorts aswell asavillage Italsoof- stay. meals andaccommodation inthebudget around $2600per person. Alltours include around Kadavu. tours cost Theseven-day teresting andwell-organised kayaktours www.tamarillo.co.nz/index.html) 1 3 2 KADAVU GROUP KADAVU GROUP••Sleeping Washington (Mt Washington) Cape Nabukelevu (838m) in comdto...... B3 Biana Accommodation...... SLEEPING Waisalima BeachResort...... Tiliva Resort...... Reece's Place...... Papageno Eco-Resort...... Nagigia IslandResort...... Matava Resort...... Dive KadavuResort...... Albert's Sunrise...... Kong King P ACIF ὄὄ ὄὄὄ 5 O CEAN S OUTH AC Nabukelevu-i-Ra Vesi Passage , atthesouthernmostend Daviqele

( % Tawaya in NewZealand 04-2399885; , off Matava,, off also , which offers in- ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ Nasegai Namalata Tavuki Reefs Matanuku 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D2 D2 B3 B2 A3 C3 B2 D2 B Muani Vunisea 2 Drue 3 Beach Long Harbour Galoa North Bay Tama- Galoa 7 Rooper Reef Naikorokoro ὄὄὄ ὄ Namara 6 Muanikaukau Daku Bay

Point kayaks forhire. adult/child. with kidsinmind.Itcosts$2600/2100per Passage Soso Matava Resort Matava Budget accommodation. timeandcostwhen choosing your tation to get there isbyboat.Considertranspor- fromtheairport,and theonlyway distant In Kadavu mostof are theplacestostay SLEEPING and thecolourfulKadavu muskparrot. honeyeater, Kadavu velvet fantail, fruitdove birdlife, includingtheindigenous Kadavu eastern side, are home toawidevarietyof The lushrainforests, especially onKadavu’s Bird-watching $20, dwithout/withbathroom $60/110-170; furniture, verandas andplenty of sunlight. jian dwellings) withtimber floors, modest has charming traditionalthatched most popularof thebudget resorts, Matava Soso Bay Daku All theresorts have two-person ocean KADAVU Dravuwalu Nacomoto Vukavu Rakiraki Soso Yale Bay Kadavu Namatiu Levuka ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ Kavala

Bay

Ono Channel Ono Matasawalevu Waya ( % Nabouwalu 4 Bay 330 5222;www.matava.com; dm Vacalea Passage Tiliva Vanuakula D'Urville Channel Vesi Namara Nukuvou Vabea 8 6miles 10km 0 0 Ono Yaukuve 1 9 Levu Buliya

Great Naqara Narikoso ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ Naiqoro Passage Astrolabe D To Suva Reef (60km) n bure ) The (Fi- person onewayandtake aroundanhour. transfers airstrip cost$40per fromVunisea aking, snorkelling andgame fishing. Boat also hiking,village andwaterfall visits,kay- ing trip.Aside fromdiving( p225 ), there is which makes agreat snorkelling or kayak- links ittoapicturesque offshore island, restaurant-bar on theveranda ofand are thebig served include vegetables fromtheorganic garden lent meals(peradult/child perday$55/20) of solarelectricityandwater heating. Excel- and theeco-friendly owners make themost ful views.Thegroundsare andlush neat the mostexpensive andcomewithwonder- $6, dm/s/d$16/37/50) The honeymoonandoceanview One-way transfers airstrip to/fromVunisea tideandgear hirehigh costs $5perday. Snorkelling isOKinfront of theresort at have mosquitonets andwoven floor mats. electricity orhot water, and therustic thekitchen. Therecan pay$5touse isno organised ifthere’s interest. Self-caterers they’rewhenever cooked andactivities are meals (perperson perday$37)are served more flexiblethanotherresorts –fresh lage visit.Everything’s fairlylaid-back and sort offering travellers theflavour of avil- Passage, Albert’sisasmall,family-runre- eastern cornerof Kadavu, toNaiqoro close Albert’s Sunrise Albert’s The beach outthefrontistidal;areef respect fortheirgods. outofMost won’teatsharkoroctopus and regard thesharkastheirprotector. thepeoplenowfishwithoutfearKadavu be forever protected In fromsharkattack. pus demandedthatthepeopleofKadavu Inreturndeath lock. formercytheocto- reef andswiftlyclaspedthesharkina pus, however, anchored itselftothecoral open andsharpteeth prepared. The octo- at thegiant withhismouth wide octopus ing hisusualbattlestrategy hecharged land toprove hissuperiorstrength. Adopt- waters, hespeddowntotheis- in Kadavu ians. Onhearingrumoursofarivalmonster Fiji islandschallenging otherreef guard- Dakuwaqa theSharkGodoncecruised GODSOCTOPUS THE BATTLE OFTHESHARK & bure

Onabeach onthenorth- ( % . 333 7555;campingperperson bure bure are

Vunisea airstripVunisea cost$100perperson. is carbloaded.Returnboattransfers from The food(mealplanadditional$50perday) village visits($25perperson) andkayaking. per person). Alsoonoffer are waterfall or snorkelling requires ashort boattrip($25 tide. Thebest is OKforswimmingathigh a longstretch of tidalbeach, sandy, which a backpackers’ sliceof theisland.There’s no-frills spotbutwhatyou’re payingforis beach It’sano-pretensions, andoceanvistas. bathrooms,hammocksonthe rudimentary ecoresort.com; sfrom$275, d $400-600; ecoresort.com; d $40/60) airport gates. lodge virtuallyoutsidethe beingestablished dinner is$5.There isalsoanewbudget includebreakfast,nets. Rates andlunch or the wharf,hasbasicroomswithmosquito local materials andbark wallhangings. The clude futon-style beds,furniture made from parrots. Theconnected ‘Garden Rooms’in- thick tropicalgarden popularwithshining resort issmallandembeddedin a itself ner willbefromtheorganic garden.The erator andthevegetables youeatatdin- micro-hydro energy tocomplement itsgen- logically friendly,theresort solarand uses of dreams.the stuff comfycastaway Eco- and islandsanctuary is thequintessential bathroom $65/130) limafiji.com; campingpersite$8,dm$12,dwithout/with Papageno Eco-Resort Top End stuck here ofpose comingtoKadavu butifyouget Soso Passage, which isn’tfaraway. off theislandispoorbutyoucanbetaken to just southeastof Snorkelling Vunisea. right spot onthenorthernpointof Galoaisland, Theresorta barpromised. inanice isbased a newkitchen/dining area, adive centre and action duringresearch withfive new owners in2005.Amajor overhaul wasin bynew family-run property,butwasbought operatingformorebeen than30years asa One of Kadavu’s oldestresorts, has Reece’s around 1½totwohours. son fortwoormore people. Thetriptakes cost $100foroneperson and$50perper- retreat consistsof ageing, thatched Reece’s Place Reece’s Staying in Vunisea really inVunisea defeats thepur-Staying Waisalima BeachResort , about2kmnorthof theairport near Biana Accommodation KADAVU GROUP••Sleeping

( This rough-hewn budget Thisrough-hewn % 333 6097;www.reecesresort.com)

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330 3355;www.papageno ( % 331 7281;www.waisa n

( % ) Papageno 333 6010;s/ bure, bure, 227

KADAVU GROUP KADAVU KADAVU GROUP kadavu.com; s/d/t/f$320/560/780/980; kadavu.com; www.fijisurf.com; dm$115,dfrom$250; www.fijisurf.com; ing midyear. Boattransfers to thebreaks are waves all year-round withbigger swells dur- offshore. produce rideable The surf-breaks of five breaks includingKingKongleftsjust Surfing isthemainactivity, withachoice and boastingreef, views. surfandmountain hanging over plots of translucentbluesea exquisite landscape,with Proprietors have madethe most of the Washington.beautiful islandnearCape remote resort sitsonanunfathomably far western sideof theislandgroup,this r $400-500; just aswelcome. couples butsinglesandfamilieswillfeel and surfingare extra. Papageno isidealfor and hiking are allfree; snorkelling, fishing (narcotic drink)ceremonies, sea kayaking of belobster). theday(which might a three-course dinneroften features catch beach towels.Thefoodisexcellent– fluffy bathrooms withindulgent productsand privacy aroundthem.Alldigshave plush larger 228 include mealsandairporttransfers. management isextremely Rates hospitable. also asociable, ocean-fronted barandthe is wonderfulregardless of thetide. There’s beach, where the snorkelling andswimming southeasterly winds,itboastsanexcellent for afew days.Sheltered fromtheprevailing to dive butit’saniceplacetojusthangout tidy bathrooms.Many visitors comehere beds,verandas,comfortable hotwater and pealing resort has10modest and refined resort hassixelevated cline risingfromthebeach, thistranquil and Kimcooksameanfilletof fish. wife Theyare Barbara. gracious exceedingly grew upinthevillage nextdoor,andhis Kim, aretired who BritishForcesOfficer bar/dining area. Tiliva isownedandrunby deckinthecentral on afabuloussweeping andserved meals are includedinthetariff water andelectricityrun24/7.Delicious privacy withoutrestricting theview.Hot foliage high toprovidewith justenough alsohasa270-degree timberbalcony Each poster bedsandlounge chairs tosinkinto. with cavernous interiors, roofs, high four- Tiliva Resort Tiliva Resort Nagigia Island Resort IslandResort Nagigia Dive Kadavu Resort Kadavu Dive KADAVU GROUP••Eating bure n have awideberthof spaceand ) Spread widelyover asoft in- ( % 333 7127; www.tilivaresortfiji.com; 333 7127;www.tilivaresortfiji.com;

( ( % % 331 7780;www.dive bure 333 7774,6003051; n anddorms n bure ) Thisap- ) Onthe with Kava Kava bure

stranded inVunisea. booked youcouldbe inadvance,otherwise have youraccommodationand transfers to nearbyresorts considerably. Ideally, davu, which wouldreduce transfer times being constructed attheeastern endof Ka- Kadavu. There of istalk anotherairport steeplyatthesouthwestern pointofrises viewofhas aspectacular Nabukelevu, which airstrip Namalata over sea’s Bay Namalata either NadiorSuva. Theapproach toVuni- lent) over stunningreefs toKadavu from departure. thedaybeforeand alwaysconfirmflights tocheckminutes). Itisadvisable timetables toKadavudaily flights fromNadi($330,45 through theSuvaoffice ofthrough times get adiscountifyoubookdirectly Kadavu ($260,30minutes). Youcansome- Air Fijihas dailyreturn fromSuvato flights Air THERE&AWAY GETTING especially tothebudget resorts. vided itmaybeanideatotake alongsnacks, remote, ifall your mealsare soeven pro- Kavala Mostof Bay. theresorts are very and there are smallstores and inVunisea afewThe airporthasakioskselling snacks, EATING airstrip are $115perperson. son. Returnboattransfers fromVunisea Dive Kadavu ( p225 ). tine coral;theresort canarrange tripswith great cave formationstoexplore andpris- great spotforsnorkelling and diving, with on Kadavu, isalsoamust.This justacrossthewater of Nabukelevu-i-Ra, caves. AvisittothevillageNasoso Beach foraswiminthe Washington lighthouse also nicewalksnearby,includingtoCape paddle outtothemainbreak. There are $35 perperson perday,butyoucanalso four hours totwodays!It visitsKavala Bay, regular and unreliable, anythingfrom taking is mostlyforcargo andit isir- andlocaluse, Ceva Suva toKadavu ontheferry MV Boat Sun Air % It is a beautiful flight (sometimesturbu- It isabeautifulflight Meal plansare anadditional$60perper- 331 3666; [email protected]; 185 Victoria Pde) 185Victoria 331 3666;[email protected]; is $45 per person one way. This service is$45perperson oneway.Thisservice

( % 0800 6725725,5723016;www.fiji.to) www.lonelyplanet.com Air Fiji Bulou-ni-

Mp p122; (Map has . St, WaluBay) ping the weatheryoustrike. Contact can bebearableorterrible, dependingon Thetrip andalsoNabukelevu-i-Ra. Vunisea www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake aroundthesouth- road toNabukelevu-i-Ra area, unsealed nisea exceptforonerough, Kadavu’s few roadsare restricted totheVu- AROUND GETTING

Mp p119; (Map inSuvaforbookings. % 331 1766,3395000,5788;Rona Kadavu Ship- Kadavu crunching triptothemore remote resorts. weatheritcanbeawetandbone- In rough Most boatsdon’thave life jackets orradios. are expensive duetofuelcostsandmark-ups. make arrangements inadvance. Boattrips airstrip;guests fromVunisea make sure you resort Each hasitsownboatandwillpickup island group’sprincipalmodeof transport. ortohitch aride.Vunisea Smallboatsare the ern endof Kadavu. It’seasytowalkaround KADAVU Around GROUP••Getting © LonelyPlanetPublications

229 KADAVU GROUP KADAVU LAU & MOALA GROUPS © LonelyPlanetPublications Lau &Moala Groups 230 for theircrafts. tion, architecture andphysicalfeatures. The islandersofsouthernLauare well known with Fijians, andtheTonganinfluenceisexpressed innames,language,food,decora- in thelate 1700s,bringing withthemtheir innovative canoedesigns. They intermarried difficult toreturn. TonganandSamoancanoebuildersbegansettlingintheseislands thesoutheasttradewindsmadeiteasytosailfromTongaFiji,Historically butmore Pacific neighbourhashadasignificantinfluenceonthegroup’sculturaldevelopment. removed fromthereaches oftouristsandhasnofacilitieswhatsoever. of southernLau.Althoughmuchclosertothemainland,MoalaGroupiseven further is precisely whytheseislandsappealtohardenedandpatientexplorers. bays are usedashurricaneshelters nonexistent, byvisitingyachts. which Tourismisvirtually ofFiji,Although theclimate isdrierthanmostparts stormscan be fierceandsomeofthe the 57islesare countlessbays,beaches,hillyascentsandseeminglyunexplored territory. atollsandsparselypopulateddeserted islandssurroundedbythickrimsofreef. Within Strewn acrossthesouthwestcornerofFiji’s vastarchipelago,the Lau Groupisabrew of

HIGHLIGHTS The groupsitsabout halfwaybetweenViti Levu andTongaitsproximity tothis andsouthernLau,the Lau issubdividedintonorthern Moala Groupliestothewest

Marvel atthelimestonewallsof Marvel Snorkel DoseuponafusionofTonganandFijian dingyoryachtinthe Weighanchorinakayak, POPULATION: 11,500 24) and ( p234) bord ofcoralreefs and atolls culture inthevillagesof spectacular 22) or (p232) Vale NiBose Bay ofIslands kayak

(p233) 22) h smorgas- the (p232) (p232) Oso Nabukete (p233)

AREA:114,000 SQKM Islands Bay of Nabukete Vanua Balavu Vale NiBose Oso ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ www.lonelyplanet.com the king appointed Ma’afu governor of the gate thekillingof apreacher. Sixyears later of toVanua warcanoes Balavu toinvesti- King Taufa’ahau of Tonga,led an armada Tongan nobleman Enele Ma’afu, cousinof region wasdominated byTonga. In1847 and bythemid-19thcentury whole eastern Pacificcame fromLau’s neighbour, being killedindisputes. the sailors lived withtheislanders until the wreck formuskets andgunpowder islandlootedLakeba. FijiansfromOneata was wrecked eastof Reef onBukatatanoa in 1800whentheAmericanschooner first withEuropeans cameintocontact Lau History LAU &MOALAGROUPS ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ The greatest visitinginfluence,though, Wainiyabia Gau Oru Beach 0 0 Koro to Suva Ferries Beach Savusavu Selesele Nukuselal Beach Guesthouse Point Jeke Qica's 1 mile Nabukete 2 km Cave Oso Tubou Matuku Kedekede Nasaqalau Airstrip Tarakua Peak Point Levuka Korovuba ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ MOALA GROUP Vakano Old Fortification Waiciwaici Nukunuku Moala Yadrana Waitabu Somosomo K ORSEA Nukutolu ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ Yacata Argo

Nanuka Passage

Vara Vatu to theirhome country. and manyTongansreturnedChief of Lau) totheTuiNayau(Traditional Fijian passed in 1881,Tongan power weakened, thetitle Tongans of Vanuabalavu). After hisdeath (Protector of asRokoTuiLau the ognised andbecame officially rec-sion toBritain one of of thesignatoriestoDeed Ces- much ofinfluential throughout Fiji.He was become apowerfulforceintheregion and of By1855Ma’afu . Chief Cakobau had local Fijianwars inreturn forprotection by TheTongansassistedloma ashisbase. in Sawanavillagethen established nearLoma- Heby forceandsubjugated itsinhabitants. 17 Wesleyans,Ma’afu tookVanua Balavu Tongans inFiji.After thelater murderof Naitaba Tavu NaSici ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ Malima LAU &MOALA GROUPS••History Vanua Vatu Ono-i-Lau To ; Mago Islands Bay of Namalata Lomaloma BALAVU NORTHERN SOUTHERN VANUA Susui Ororua Avea LAU LAU 30miles 50km 0 0 See Enlargement Munia ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ Aiwa LAKEBA Nuvutu-i-Loma Katafaga Komo Namaku-i-Lau Moce Nuvutu-i-Ra Oneata Yogasa ὄ

231 LAU & MOALA GROUPS MOALA & LAU LAU & MOALA GROUPS tion kuna and Ratu Mara.kuna andRatu Su- title TuiNayauincludethelate Ratu withthe surprisinglyinfluential;those been trade whocanprovide experienceddivers working inthe there are inLau, based commercial divers experienced divers only. (see right isfor WailagiLala ). Divingoff ofsible intheBay IslandsonVanua Balavu in thearea. ment andcommercialfishing isprohibited waters are protected bytheFijianGovern- unexplored interms of diving. TheLau The remote Groupisstillrelatively Lau &Tours Activities there isa ficient cashfortheirentire OnLau stay. facilities sotravellers totake suf- willneed and there are nobanksandcredit card There islittleinfrastructure fortravellers Information smaller islands. on topof of thelimestonebases someof the bythelava domes canic activityisevident great of masses reefs. Relatively recent vol- coral togrowover thelimestone,creating interrupted periodsof uplifthave permitted scattered amid400km of oceaninwhich stone andafew are volcanic.Thegroupis composite materials; someare pure lime- GroupareMost islandsof madeof theLau &Geology Geography 232 Vanua Balavu,anda hospital 3001) The chiefs of the Lau GrouphaveThe chiefs of always theLau Although thereAlthough are nodive companies Diving, kayakingandswimmingare pos- worms are considered adelicacy. in a overnight andcooked into baskets packed The infresh catchisfirstsoaked water, then wormsbythethousands.villagers collect and brownseaworms).At sunrisetheSusui the annualrisingof ber, thepeopleofVanua Balavu witness One weekafter thefullmooninNovem- A LOCALDELICACY

NORTHERN LAU ••Vanua NORTHERN Balavu ( on Lakeba. % lovo

( % 882 3043) Lomaloma postoffice (pitoven). The fishy-tastingbaked 882 3153) bêche-de-mer

, telephone exchange and Tabou alsohasa . Tubou postoffice balolo (sea cucumber) cucumber) (sea

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( % 882 on 2665; www.earthriver.com) include allmealsandaccommodation. (perperson beach US$2900) camping. Rates around Vanua it’svillage Balavu and stays isinhotels but commodation onVitiLevu ficult forindependenttravellers toget to. Ac- snorkel andswiminareas thatwouldbedif- year buttheyare opportunityto afantastic There are onlyaboutthree orfourtripsa four daysof kayakingaroundVanua Balavu. that encompassPacific Harbour, and pany offering 10-day kayaking expeditions Ministry for Fijian Affairs. Ministry forFijianAffairs. p253 ) andapplyforpermission fromthe clear customsandimmigrationfirst (see boats (see p262 ) andMoalaGroup( p262 Groupbycargo/passengerreach theLau ). (p235). Suva–Moala and (p234) Suva–Lakeba Air FijifliesSuva–Vanua (see Balavu opposite ), &Away There Getting also agoodideatobringyourown. can provide snorkelling equipment butit’s andNawanawaEstate Moana’s Guesthouse sizeable reefs andtheirmarinelife. Both kelling tate onVanua Balavu(see opposite ). andNawanawaEs- at Moana’sGuesthouse with equipment.Ask foradviceanddetails also known as Qilaqila, sitsinthenorthwest beaches. Thecelebratedsandy the group’sperimeter isringed bypristine Balavu isscattered withrugged hillsand ridors of Theinterior of calmsea. Vanua inverted S,creating sheltered baysandcor- way aroundthesurroundingwater like an side abarrierreef. Theislandscurltheir resides othersmallerislandsin- witheight Averagingsubstance. about2kmwide,it Vanua Balavuisenigmaticinshape and Arguably islands, themostscenic of Lau’s VANUA BALAVU Cicia are forcopraproduction. important The islandsof Kanacea, Naitauba, Mago and Kaibu. Ithasanairstrip,Balavu. asdoes largestNorthern Lau’s islandisVanua LAU NORTHERN Yachties to need wishingtovisit Lau If youhave plentyof time you canalso River Earth ofIn theabsence divingcompanies, isthenextbestwaytoexperience

( % in theUSA1800-643-2784,845-626- isanadventure com- www.lonelyplanet.com Bay ofIslands snor- , yourself inthevillageyourself isjustasrewarding. snorkelling and fishing trips,butimmersing munal livingarea. Moana’scanarrange boat, a smalldorm,onedoubleroomand com- Tongan-style cottage within thevillage with one hasaprivate bathroom.There isalsoa Two are thatched and share facilitiesand three unfussy the shore about1kmfromthevillage are and village on accommodation.Sittingright but Moana’scovers offering allbases, beach dation optionsmaynotberife inSawana, out/with bathroominclmeals$65/85; respect village etiquette (see p36 ). ask fordirections before youheadout,and their ownwillbewelcomedinvillages but and ple of Vanua Balavurely largely oncopra Vanua andTaveuni). Levu Todaythepeo- andCakaudrove (easternern VitiLevu) trace theirancestrytoTailevu (southeast- ofThe Fijianinhabitants Vanua Balavu littleremainsthough of itspastgrandeur. as wellFiji’sfirst gardens, botanical day Lomalomahadmanyhotels andshops by shipstradinginthePacific. Initshey- Fiji’s ports,Lomalomawasregularly visited ence of Tonganarchitecture. Thefirst of withroundedendsshow theinflu- houses descendants stilllive in to Lomaloma. Fifth-generation Tongan and thevillage of Sawanawasbuiltnext 19th centuryTongaconquered theisland loma a 115kmstretch of opensea. hazy green shape of Taveuni isvisibleacross pool of water. crystalline Oncleardaysthe a gapingcave withlimestonewallsanda (literally the Meeting of House theGods), the rugged limestonehillsis place foryachties todrawanchor. Within kayaking andswimming.It’salsoalovely pocket site fordiving, andisaspectacular Moana’s Guesthouse Sleeping modation isintheircolonial-style home, wife Helene.and hisNew Zealand Accom- Tuwai,aDaliconilocal, Joe friendly Ratu isrunbytheextremely homestay fortable than5kmfrom theairport,thiscom- Less hotmail.com; campingperperson$10,s/d$40/70; Nawanawa Estate Curious visitors exploring the island on Curious visitors exploringtheislandon Vanua largest Balavu’s village is onthesoutheastcoast.Inmid- bêches-de-mer bure

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0333; www.fiji-islands.com/kaimbu.html) 0333; www.fiji-islands.com/kaimbu.html) tremely exclusive with thelarger island of Yacata. Theex- of Vanua Itshares Balavu. afringingreef Group,55kmwest land inthenorthernLau Kaibu (3.5sqkm)isaprivately ownedis- KAIBU halfway toTonga. Vanua is355kmeastof Balavu Nadi,about &Away There Getting Ni Bose. history andcanalsoarrange visitstoVale intotheisland’sgeographylent insight and andHelene Joe providemen. Ratu excel- catch of fromlocal fisher- thedaybought 10/12) andincludefreshly baked bread and an addedtreat (breakfast/lunch/dinner $5/ built.Themealshere Joe arewhich Ratu southern Lau Group. See Group.See southern Lau p262 fordetails. on boardtotravel tothefarreaches of the Vanua tospendabout aweek Balavu.Expect Group,including from SuvatotheLau way, 1½hours). onThursdayBalavu andSunday($195one the Yasawas) inthe opulencestakes. torivalTurtle IslandResort(in promises reopen, indefinitely butifitdoes closed it abound.Either wayithasbeendemise and rumours of itsimminentoperationor ofstate renovation years forseveral andsale .airfiji.com.fj) Saliabasaga Shipping has fortnightly trips Shipping trips Saliabasaga hasfortnightly on herwaytovisitlover onTaveuni. Tongan princesswhileflyingover theisland the fishwere bya droppedintothelake easily trappedinthenets. Legend hasitthat attracted tothefemale villagersandthus the air. Itisbelieved thatthemalefishare usually onlyfoundinthesea)tospringinto large fishknownas up themuddywaters. This provokes the tostir theyjumparound inthelake skirt, exceptforaleaftraditional priest.Naked ally forafunceremony authorisedbytheir The peopleofMavanagatherhere annu- Vanua Balavu,whichisconsidered sacred. of cornerofMavana, onthenortheast There isafreshwater nearthevillage lake FATAL ATTRACTION flies between SuvaandVanua fliesbetween NORTHERN LAU •• Kaibu LAU ••Kaibu NORTHERN Kaimbu IslandResort Kaimbu Air Fiji yawa (atypeofmullet

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233

888 LAU & MOALA GROUPS MOALA & LAU LAU & MOALA GROUPS vuka intheLomaivitis. atLe- wasestablished trading settlement frequently visited byEuropeansbefore the first bookinthatlanguage. was Lakeba for written Fijianhere and producedthe asystem developed ies, CrossandCargill, Fiji viaTongaandTahiti. Two missionar- where Christianmissionaries first entered for FijiansandTongans;itwasalsotheplace pine plantations. is covered withgrasslands,pandanusand well alongthefertile coastandtheinterior conuts and is awide roads across theinterior.several Totheeast There isa road arounditsperimeter and sq-km area ishometoabout2000people. a smallpeninsulaatitssouthernend.Its54- land, approximately 9kmindiameter, with circularvolcanicis- isaroughly Lakeba LAKEBA handicrafts shopsinSuva. crafts fromvillages ontheislandsorfrom Youmaybeable purchasewoodcarvers. ofand theartisans Fulaga are excellent andNamukaproduce Lau known fortheircrafts:Moce,Vatoa, Ono-i- are more isolated andmuch furthersouth. southeast of Lakeba. Vatoa andOno-i-, mostlywithinaradiusof 100km There areisland insouthernLau. 16other isthemostimportant Nayau (Chiefof Lau), of beingthehereditaryLakeba, theTui seat SOUTHERN LAU 234 some of thenearby here, andhospital policestation and office, of Lakeba. There post isalsoaguesthouse, Groupisin Lau and inhabited bybats, it’sanawesome ex- with huge pillars of limestone stalactites ‘too narrowforpregnant women’.Adorned pecially TrustBoardin1940. Native Lands the whoestablished an influentialTuiLau Sukuna,formerly SirLala here, asisRatu the once-powerfulTonganchief, isburied snorkelling andswimming. Enele Ma’afu, The place washistoricallyameeting Lakeba The islandhasninevillages. Yams, co- The islanders are of well southernLau The islandhascaves worth visiting,es- SOUTHERNLAU ••Lakeba provincial office provincial Oso Nabukete lagoon kumala enclosed byabarrierreef. enclosed Tubou (sweet potatoes) grow potatoes) (sweet wih rnlts as translates which , beaches

atthesouthernend ( % masi 882 3164) are goodfor (barkcloth) forthe r inclmeals$40) times of war. Peak where thepeopleretreated toduring in themiddleof theisland atKekekede own torch). There isalsoan where youcanarrange aguide(bringyour village, toNasaqalau (gift forthechief) narcotic drinkpeppershrub) asa ample of nature’s Take might. some details. details. at$75.See including mealsstart p262 for Group, including Lakeba. One-wayfares trips fromSuvatothesouthernLau nightly opment Corporation each have slowfort- circletheisland. andbuses Carriers Monday andWednesday($200,1½ hours). on Suva and Lakeba Air Fijifliesbetween &Away There Getting Call the Sleeping area’s culture andhistory. provide interesting onthe commentary Meals are simple butfillingandJack can a shared bathroominside‘Jack’s house’. accommodation. check ifyoucanvisittheislandandtobook Saliabasaga ShippingSaliabasaga andKabua Devel- Small years. not beenenacted inearnestforsome100 consensus seemstobethattheritualhas awildruralmyth.However,like thegeneral here varyfromvillagetovillage,performed andeaten bythevillagers.killed the sharksexceptwhite sharkwouldbe shark, wouldbedrawntotheplace. Allof to anhour. Aschoolofsharks,ledbyawhite neck-high inthewater, wouldchantforup On thedesignated daythecaller,standing near thepostorfishedinnearbyarea. a traditionalpriestensured went no-one a postandflagof to theceremony, by thespotwasmarked November eachyear. Aboutamonthprior formed ashark-calling or ritualinOctober Traditionally, thevillagersofNasaqalauper- SHARK CALLING Reports onwhethersharkcallingisstill Reports Lau provincial office Lau provincial Jeke Qica’sGuesthouse Jeke inTubouoffers roomswith masi (barkcloth)and

( old fortification %

( % 882 3164) sevusevu 882 3035; kava to (a

visitors. Each ofvisitors. Each theislandshasvillages. beautiful islandisgenerally inaccessibleto crater onitswestern side. this However, woodedpeaksandasubmergedsoil, steep million years ago. Matuku hasrich volcanic locked lagoon.Thevolcanowasactive 4.9 of asunken volcanocrater formingaland- shapeis the resultface. Totoya’s horseshoe have lifted more sur- than3kmtothesea previously submerged volcanicconesthat Group. Theislandsare theerodedtopsof Kadavu way between andthesouthernLau of Division.Theyare theEastern abouthalf- removed butadministered fromLau aspart Totoya andMatuku –are geographically The three islandsof thisGroup–Moala, MOALA GROUP www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake indented coast. lar inshape,withadeeply triangu- from Suva. Theislandisroughly northerly of thegroup.Itisabout 160km Moala (65sqkm)isthelargest andmost MOALA p6 o details. for p262 toya intheMoalaGrouponceamonth.See boats thattravel toMoala,Matuku andTo- ($180, 45minutes). SuvaandMoalaonTuesdayonlytween Air Fiji &Away There Getting two small peakreachesThe highest 460mandhas take withyou. ask beforehand whatkindof fore youarrive. Additionallyyoushould with afriendormemberof thefamilybe- toorganise this youwillneed sequently, commodation iswithalocalfamily.Con- invited assuch, your only optionforac- tobeformally youdon’tneed although Viti Levu. ancestors of camefrom Moala’sinhabitants away.The sail toSuva,anight’s they send lagers produce copraandbananas,which tile soilandsupportsninevillages. Thevil- Khans ShippingKhans operates cargo/passenger Moala hasnotouristinfrastructure, and

( % crater lakes crater 331 3666;www.airfiji.com.fj) MOALA GROUP••Moala . Ithasextremely fer- © LonelyPlanetPublications sevusevu fliesbe-

235 to LAU & MOALA GROUPS MOALA & LAU

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