Kadavu Group
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© Lonely Planet Publications 224 www.lonelyplanet.com KADAVU GROUP •• Orientation 225 ORIENTATION school children. There are good treks into The small town of Vunisea is Kadavu’s ad- the interior from Tiliva Resort, Papageno ministrative centre, with the island’s police Eco-Resort and Nagigia Resort. Staff there Kadavu Group station, post office, hospital (all on the top of often act as guides or you can head off on the hill) and airstrip. It is on an isthmus with your own but ask locals if a track is clear Namalata Bay to the west and North Bay to beforehand. The strip of coast between the east. Vunisea is easy to get around on Waisalima Beach Resort and Tiliva vil- foot, but of little interest to travellers. lage makes for a scenic walk at low tide. Unspoilt and with positively prehistoric landscapes, this group of islands sits some 100km The isolated villagers are very traditional below Viti Levu’s southern coast in a flourish of emerald green. Steep verdant banks rise INFORMATION so when visiting a village, ask to speak to from the rugged shoreline hinting at an untamed interior. It’s more than a hint; a dearth Emergency the turaga-ni-koro (hereditary chief) first, % KADAVU GROUP of roads and infrastructure largely confines transport to small boats and maintains the Fiji Recompression Chamber Facility ( 885 0630; remove your hat and don’t carry things on [email protected]; cnr Amy & Brewster Sts, your shoulders (see p36 for more informa- islands’ flawless complexion. For visitors, the effort of traversing the perimeter is offset by Suva) Divers suffering from the bends can be transferred to tion on village etiquette). the promise of a truly secluded stay. Suva by Medivac helicopter service. Police (%333 6007) Diving Prevailing southeasterly winds batter the exposed southeastern side of the main island Most travellers are attracted to Kadavu KADAVU GROUP and the group can fall prey to unforgiving weather. But when the sun shines and the seas Medical Services for its famous Great Astrolabe Reef, which are calm visitors are rewarded with secluded swimming coves and spectacular trekking. Vunisea’s hospital (%333 6008) was opened in skirts the eastern side of the group, and the The lush, pristine rainforests, especially on the eastern side, support a rich and diverse 1996, with the help of Australian aid, as part nearby Naiqoro Passage. Expect brilliantly of a $7 million project to improve Kadavu’s coloured soft and hard corals, vertical drop- birdlife that includes the colourful Kadavu musk parrot. The Great Astrolabe Reef skirts health services. Services are fairly limited offs and a wonderful array of marine life, the group and hooks its way around the uppermost islands, providing some of the finest though, so if you really feel unwell escape including lots of reef sharks. However, div- diving in the Pacific. Kadavu. ing on the reef is variable, ranging from disappointing to terrific. The weather quite The group comprises of Kadavu (Fiji’s fourth-largest island), oval-shaped Ono, Galoa and Money often dictates which sites are suitable to a number of smaller islands. The main island is irregular in shape and so deeply indented Most of the resorts in Kadavu are distant dive, and visibility can range from 15m to that it is almost cut in three by deep bays. The impressive Nabukelevu (Mt Washington) is from Vunisea. Some resorts accept credit 70m. For more information on Kadavu’s cards but bring cash with you especially if diving sites, see p62 . the highest peak at 838m. you are staying at the budget resorts. The following three outfits have excellent Kadavu’s 72 villages or settlements rely largely on subsistence agriculture and the export equipment and instructors: Post & Telephone Matava Resort (%330 5222) offers dives from of local produce to the mainland. Each village has its own fishing grounds, and resorts The Vunisea post and telephone offices are the Soso Passage to Naiqoro Passage, featur- negotiate to use the areas for diving, surfing or fishing. on top of the hill, a short walk from the ing excellent manta ray, cave and shark dives. airstrip. This branch (h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) also One-/two-tank dives cost $105/165 and a sells some groceries, clothes and stationery. PADI Open Water Course costs $590. Kavala Bay, at the northeastern end of the Papageno Eco-Resort (%330 3355) has know- HIGHLIGHTS ὄὄ island, also has a post office. ledgeable instructors, who will take you to the best sites, taking into account weather Dive or snorkel the kaleidoscopic Great Astrolabe Reef ( opposite) Dangers & Annoyances conditions and what you want to see. Shark Meet the locals ( opposite ); spend an afternoon in one of the The ferry trip to Kadavu from Suva can be feeding in the Naiqoro Passage is a favour- Great 72 villages Astrolabe rough and the timetable is erratic; fly instead. ite excursion. A two-tank dive/PADI Open Reef Wait for low tide and trek ( opposite) a stretch of the coast The small boats used by budget resorts for Water Course costs $130/600. transfers to/from the airstrip often don’t have Dive Kadavu (%331 7780; www.divekadavu.com) Ignore the tide and take an inland hike ( opposite ) ὄὄ covers, life jackets or radios. The weather can has fast boats with up to four dives per day. Indulge at a top-end lodge ( p227 ) Naiqoro be rough from April to August. A favourite haunt is the Namalata reefs, Passage Surf the breaks off Cape Washington which are about 5km from the west coast ( p226 ) Cape of the island and more sheltered from the Washington ACTIVITIES Dive with the manta rays and sharks at Remote and rugged Kadavu is a great place prevailing winds than the Astrolabe Reef. Naiqoro Passage ( opposite ) ὄὄ for nature lovers, divers, hikers and bird- A two-tank dive/PADI Open Water Course watchers. costs $170/600. Get offshore and tour the islands by kayak ( p226 ) Two budget resorts that offer diving are Hiking Waisalima Beach Resort (%331 7281), which POPULATION: 12,000 AREA: 411 SQ KM The mountains have rainforests, numerous charges $155 for a two-tank dive, and Albert’s waterfalls and hiking trails used mainly by Sunrise (%333 7555). The latter runs dives to 226 KADAVU GROUP •• Sleeping KADAVU GROUP •• Sleeping 227 0 10 km KADAVU GROUP 0 6 miles cost $100 for one person and $50 per per- THE BATTLE OF THE SHARK & son for two or more people. The trip takes ACB D'Urville D OCTOPUS GODS around 1½ to two hours. Channel To Suva (60km) Dakuwaqa the Shark God once cruised the Waisalima Beach Resort (%331 7281; www.waisa SLEEPING Fiji islands challenging other reef guard- limafiji.com; camping per site $8, dm $12, d without/with Albert's Sunrise............................1 D2 Vanuakula 1 Biana Accommodation..................2 B3 ians. On hearing rumours of a rival monster bathroom $65/130) This rough-hewn budget Dive Kadavu Resort......................3 B2 ὄὄDravuniὄ in Kadavu waters, he sped down to the is- Matava Resort.............................4 C3 retreat consists of ageing, thatched bure, Nagigia Island Resort...................5 A3 Namara land to prove his superior strength. Adopt- rudimentary bathrooms, hammocks on the Papageno Eco-Resort...................6 B2 Yaukuve ing his usual battle strategy he charged beach and ocean vistas. It’s a no-pretensions, Reece's Place................................7 B3 Levu Tiliva Resort.................................8 D2 at the giant octopus with his mouth wide no-frills spot but what you’re paying for is Waisalima Beach Resort...............9 D2 Buliya open and sharp teeth prepared. The octo- a backpackers’ slice of the island. There’s Nabouwalu pus, however, anchored itself to the coral a long stretch of sandy, tidal beach, which KADAVU GROUP Bay Naqara Muanikaukau ὄὄὄὄ reef and swiftly clasped the shark in a is OK for swimming at high tide. The best Point Ono Ono Channel Narikoso Vabea death lock. In return for mercy the octo- snorkelling requires a short boat trip ($25 S O U T H Yale Bay 2 Reef pus demanded that the people of Kadavu per person). Also on offer are waterfall or P A C I F I C Rooper Reef Long Daku Rakiraki Bay Levuka be forever protected from shark attack. In village visits ($25 per person) and kayaking. O C E A N Beach 6 Daku Tiliva Namalata Kavala 8 Reefs KADAVU Bay Kadavu the people now fish without fear The food (meal plan additional $50 per day) Naikorokoro 9 Astrolabe KADAVU GROUP Dravuwalu 3 Matasawalevu 1 and regard the shark as their protector. is carb loaded. Return boat transfers from Drue Naiqoro Soso Namatiu Nukuvou Passage Namara Soso Most won’t eat shark or octopus out of Vunisea airstrip cost $100 per person. ὄὄὄὄKadavuὄὄὄὄ Bay Vukavu Vacalea 2 Soso Passage 4 respect for their gods. Reece’s Place (%333 6097; www.reecesresort.com) Vunisea Great North Bay Nacomoto Waya Vesi One of Kadavu’s oldest resorts, Reece’s has King 7 Passage Kong Galoa been operating for more than 30 years as a Tavuki Cape Tawaya Galoa The honeymoon and oceanview bure are family-run property, but was bought by new Washington Harbour 3 Nabukelevu-i-Ra the most expensive and come with wonder- owners in 2005. A major overhaul was in 5 ful views. The grounds are neat and lush action during research with five new bure, ὄὄὄDaviqele ὄὄὄNasegai Muani ὄὄὄὄὄ Nabukelevu and the eco-friendly owners make the most a new kitchen/dining area, a dive centre and (Mt Washington) (838m) Matanuku of solar electricity and water heating. Excel- a bar promised. The resort is based in a nice lent meals (per adult/child per day $55/20) spot on the northern point of Galoa island, include vegetables from the organic garden just southeast of Vunisea.