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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 42 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Vanua Levu & p150

The Mamanuca & Groups p112 & the Lomaiviti Group Nadi, Suva & p137 p44

Kadavu, Lau & Moala Groups p181

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 223 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Directory A–Z ...... 224 Transport ...... 232 Directory

Language ...... 240 student-travel agencies A–Z discounts on internatio airfares to full-time stu who have an Internatio Post offices 8am to 4pm Student Identity Card ( Accommodation Monday to Friday and 8am Application forms are a Index ...... 256 to 11.30am Saturday Five-star hotels, B&Bs, able at these travel age Restaurants lunch 11am to hostels, motels, resorts, tree- Student discounts are 2pm, dinner 6pm to 9pm houses, bungalows on the sionally given for entr or 10pm beach, campgrounds and vil- restaurants and acco lage homestays – there’s no Shops 9am to 5pm Monday dation in . You ca Map Legend ...... 263 to Friday and 9am to 1pm the student health shortage of accommodation ptions in Fiji. See the ‘Which Saturday the University of nd?’ chapter, p 25 , for PaciÀ c (USP) in ng tips and a run-down hese options. Customs Regulations E l e c t r Visitors can leave Fiji without

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Dean Starnes, Celeste Brash, Virginia Jealous “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to Fiji ...... 2 Map ...... 4 Welcome to 15 Top Experiences ...... 6 Fiji Need to Know ...... 14 If You Like...... 16 Month by Month ...... 19

Itineraries ...... 21 Throwing Down the dom The Blue Lagoon. It is therefore little wonder that, despite a coup in 2006, Fiji’s (Beach) Towel beaches remain Á ushed with sunburnt Fiji has been in the tourism business for tourists. Need to decades, drawing vacationers like pilgrims to a holy land with its promise of white- Wetter is Better COUNTRYCCOUNTTRYY &&M MULTICOUNTRYMULTICCOUNNTTRYY PHRASEBOOKPHHRASEBOOK sand beaches, cloudless skies and the op- Fiji’s underwater scenery is spectacular Which Island? ...... 25 portunity to fall into a sun-induced coma and some of the À nest, and most accessi- under a palm tree. ble dives in the PaciÀ c can be found here. Know The perennial favourites are the Mama- Its reputation as the ‘soft coral capital of nuca and , Languagewhich arc north the world’ is well justiÀ ed and its countless TheTh originali i l like a stingray’s tail from the body of Fiji’s • Currency » Fijian, English andreefs, drop-oՖ s, walls and channels will main island, Viti Levu. These are Fiji’s have even experienced divers and snor- » Fiji movie dollars stars, ($) dangled in frontHindustani of the world kellers ‘ohhhing’ and ‘ahhing’ into their Diving ...... 33 as idyllic South Sea Edens, their reefs and mouthpieces. cobalt-blue waters providing cinematic eye Comprehensive Fiji is also a great surÀ ng destination • candy for À lms such as Tom Hanks’ Cast and now that its surf breaks are open to Away and Brooke Shields’ vehicle to star- Adventurous When to Go? Your Daily • Travel with Children ...... 37 Budget Tropical climate, rain year-round Budget less than $175 Regions at a Glance ...... 40 » Dorm including meals: $60-120

Savusavu # # » GO May–Oct Taveuni Local transport and GO May–Oct markets are good value on the main islands 24 » A half-day snorkelling Nadi excursion: $20-40 The Yasawa Explorer # GO Year-round The Northern Loop Midrange # Suva GO May–Oct $175- PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

SOUTH PACIFIC 350 OCEAN •# Cobra Rock » Double room in a Labasa •# # Kadavu Looking for other travel resources? midrange hotel: $150-

É GO May–Oct É Tunuloa Waisali Rainforest Peninsula 300 Reserve•# É Somosomo •# •# » Rainbow Local restaurants: ITINERARIES Savusavu •# Reef TAVEUNI Matacawalevu •# •# $15-25 for a main

•#•# Lavena É & Blue Lagoon Waitavala Coastal » Allow $50 or more •# YASAWA #– Water Slide Walk

É GROUP for activities

Waya •# # – High Season Shoulder Low Season •#Wayasewa High end over f# (Jun–Sep) (May & Oct) (Nov–Apr) Island » P e a k s e a s o n » The shoulder » Fiji’s ‘wet season’ •# Treasure $350 •# Island VITI LEVU coincides with the season includes the is from November •# Port Denarau Suva » Resorts usually (30km) ‚ Diving ‚ ‚ school holidays in ‘Fijian winter’ or ‘dry to April, with the include all meals and Australia and New season’, from May heaviest rains and plenty of activities in One to Two Weeks Ten Days Zealand, including the to October, which highest humidity their tariffs Some of Fiji’s most spectacu December–January brings low rainfall, from December to The Yasawa Explorer The Northern Loop » Best for Beginner just below the surface and di vacation period low humidity milder mid April Bure range from Divers truly amazing. The water is wa Thanks to a high-speed catamaran, Beginning in Suva, spend a morn- which daily weaves its way from ing at the excellent Fiji Museum Fiji is a perfect for new divers, as the teeming with life. You’ll see Port Denarau through the Yasawa and then an afternoon stocking up warm water in the shallow lagoons is hued À sh, canyonlike terrain Group and back again, this chain is on souvenirs at the craft market. a forgiving training environment. Just inducing walls festooned with readily explored. Buy yourself a one- or two- After exhausting Suva’s nightlife, hop on a week pass for the Yasawa Flyer that then Á ight to Vanua Levu and land yourself in about anyone in good health including and hard corals resembling allows you to hop on or oՖ the boat at any Labasa, a sugar town where you can smell children aged eight years and over can garden in full bloom. island you like. the molasses in the air. Visit the Wasavula The boat À rst heads through a few of the Ceremonial Site and take a side trip to the learn to dive. Mamanucas before reaching the Yasawa mystifying Cobra Rock inside the Naag » Breath Taker (Nananua-i-Ra, Viti Levu) chain, so these islands are a good place to Mandir Temple. Great pelagic action on an incoming tide Diving Condit (p109 ). Although Fiji is diveable ye » Gotham City (Mamanuca Group) Reef best season is from April to Oc species aplenty (p 114 ). ber to March tends to see the » Yellow Wall (Kadavu) An atmospheric site which can obscure visibility o resembling a fairy-tale castle (p 183 ). lands with river run-oՖ . » Lekima’s Ledge (Yasawa Group) A coral- Keep in mind that many div studded underwater cliff (p 124 ). to currents, which vary from b ble to powerful. Visibility varie low of 10m at certain sites up t Best for Experienced ers. Water temperatures range Divers August to 29°C in January. You ything more than a thin neopr » Great White Wall (Taveuni) Possibly the wetsuit to remain comfortable best soft-coral dive in Fiji (p 167 ).

LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP PAGE For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, so you advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas 193 chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine FIJI can make sense of what you see

Fiji Today ...... 194 population per sq km Lonely Planet in numbers History ...... 196 FIJI AUSTRALIA USA

The Environment ...... 205 ≈ 3 people 70 12 100,000,000 190+ Fijian Culture ...... 209 languages spoken seconds pass Lonely Planet guidebooks countries covered by our writers between posts sold, and still counting by a Lonely Planet Celebrate Fiji ...... 213 Fi jian Culture Fiji Today It’s true – loincloths, grass skirts, cannibalism, old beliefs and traditional on our Thorn Tree guide sports have given way to sulu and western clothing, Christianity and rug- by. But Fijian culture is alive and well. Traditional core values of respect, Coup-coup Land communal living, sex-deÀ ned roles and hereditary titles still underpin Since the 2006 military coup, Commodore Frank Bainimarama h Indo-Fijian Culture ...... 217 indigenous Fijian culture, and traditional arts such as woodcarving and travel forum weaving are as vibrant as ever. Gardening and À shing continue to put strengthened his powerbase and attempted to legitimise his osition food on Fijian tables (or should that be pandanus mats). Fiji’s rightful prime minister in a series of complex olitical manoe This chapter explores the indigenous Fijian culture and the 57% of vrings. In 2009 when the Court of Appeal declared Bainimarama’s the population it represents. The following chapter, Indo-Fijian Culture Village Life ...... 221 (p 217) , looks at the rich tapestry of customs the Indian indentured la- bourers brought to these islands. Indi genous Fijians In most places you go in Fiji you’ll be met with a cheery ‘bula’ (cheers! hello! welcome!; literally ‘life’) and a toothy grin. Fijians welcome kai- valagii (foreigners; literally ‘people from far away’) warmly, openly and at times positively enthusiastically. Consequently, Fijians have earned At the moment themselves a reputation as some of the friendliest people on earth; it’s a only a person of STAY IN TOUCH reputation that is well deserved. indigenous Fijian decent has the Face-to-face confrontation is rare and frowned upon in Fiji. Village life lawful right to is subject to complex rules of etiquette and land (vanua) is owned collec be called ‘Fijian’. lonelyplanet.com/contact tively by the community and cherished. Consequently, it is seldom sold. Indo-Fijians who Unlike other Melanesian societies where chiefs are a ointed on mer have lived in Fiji f l AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 lonelyplanet ISBN 978-1-74179-697-1 facebook.com/ 5 1 9 9 9 Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ 9 781741 796971 management of the world’s forests. %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 newsletter

ffiji-9-cover.inddiji-9-cover.indd 2 77/06/2012/06/2012 111:19:251:19:25 AAMM Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment recommendation sustainable option required See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

NADI, SUVA Bounty Island ...... 117 ...... 146 & VITI LEVU ...... 44 Beachcomber Island . . . . . 117 Lailai ...... 147 NADI & THE WEST ...... 46 ...... 117 ...... 147 Nadi ...... 46 ...... 117 Caqalai ...... 147 Around Nadi ...... 59 ...... 118 ...... 148 North of Nadi ...... 62 Mana ...... 118 Wakaya ...... 148 Lautoka ...... 65 ...... 119 Koro ...... 149 Lautoka to Rakiraki ...... 68 ...... 119 Nausori Highlands ...... 69 ...... 120 VANUA LEVU & South of Nadi ...... 70 ...... 120 TAVEUNI...... 150 Robinson Crusoe Island . . . 72 Wadigi...... 121 VANUA LEVU ...... 151 Natadola Beach ...... 72 ...... 121 Savusavu & Around ...... 153 Yanuca & Around ...... 73 Malololailai ...... 122 North & East of Savusavu ...... 161 CORAL COAST ...... 74 Island & Island ...... 123 Offshore Islands ...... 162 Sigatoka ...... 74 YASAWA GROUP ...... 123 Labasa ...... 163 Around Sigatoka ...... 76 & Wayasewa ...... 127 Around Labasa ...... 166 Korotogo & Around ...... 78 Waya ...... 128 Nabouwalu & Around . . . .166 Korolevu & Around ...... 81 Naviti & Around ...... 129 Wainunu Bay ...... 167 Pacific Harbour ...... 83 Matacawalevu & Yaqeta . . 131 TAVEUNI...... 167 Around Pacific Harbour . . .87 , Nanuya Lailai Waiyevo, Somosomo Offshore Islands ...... 88 & Nacula ...... 131 & Around ...... 171 SUVA ...... 90 Southern Taveuni ...... 173 KINGS ROAD ...... 105 (Turtle Island) ...... 135 Matei...... 174 Nausori & Sawa-i-Lau ...... 136 Eastern Taveuni ...... 177 the Rewa Delta ...... 105 Yasawa ...... 136 Offshore Islands ...... 178 Korovou to Rakiraki via Kings Road ...... 106 OVALAU & THE KADAVU, LAU Korovou to Rakiraki LOMAIVITI GROUP . . 137 & MOALA GROUPS . . 181 via the East Coast ...... 107 OVALAU ...... 139 Rakiraki & Around ...... 108 ...... 183 Levuka ...... 140 Nananu-i-Ra ...... 110 LAU & MOALA GROUPS . . 188 Lovoni ...... 145 Lau Group ...... 190 THE MAMANUCA & Rukuruku ...... 145 Moala Group ...... 192 YASAWA GROUPS . . 112 Arovudi & Silana ...... 146 MAMANUCA GROUP ...... 113 OTHER LOMAIVITI ...... 116 ISLANDS ...... 146 › Fiji

To Rotuma (460km) 178ºE 179ºE Rotuma Hofliua

16ºS S O U T H Nananu-i-Ra Sawa-i-Lau Caves P A C I F I C Swim in ancient limestone World-class windsurfing caves (p136) O C E A N (p110)

Navala Village Yasawa Group Fiji’s last traditional village Macuata-i-Wai Island-hop between (p69) Nadogo beaches (p123) Yaqaga Yalewa VANUA Yawini Kalou Yadua Yasawa Tavewa Nacula Nabouwalu 17ºS YASAWA Yaqeta GROUP Naviti Bligh Water Viwa Narara Waya Nananu-i-Ra Wayasewa Rakiraki Nananu-i-Cake Kuata Koroyanitu Tavua National Kings Rd Tomanivi Beachcomber Heritage (Mt Victoria) Natovi Island Tokoriki Park Ba (1323m) Landing Naigani Wakaya MAMANUCA Navala Dama Ovalau GROUP Levuka Mana Lautoka Mt Koroyanitu VITI LEVU Malolo (Mt Evans) Buresala (1195m) Landing Malololailai Nadi Nadrau Monavatu LOMAIVITI Plateau (913m) Korovou GROUP

18ºS Narewa Nausori Namosi Mamanuca Group Highlands Sigatoka Navua River Sun, sand and beautiful Korotogo SUVA Queens resorts (p113) Rd Navua Korolevu Pacific Yanuca Harbour

Cloudbreak Fiji’s premier surfing spot (p115) Buliya Ono

19ºS Kadavu KADAVU Kavala GROUP Vunisea Bay Beqa Lagoon Dive with bull and tiger sharks (p84) Kadavu Dive the beautiful Astrolabe Reef (p186)

177ºE 178ºE 179ºE Top Experiences ›

180º 0 50 km Cikobia 179ºW 0 30 miles 178ºW

Vatauua ELEVATION 16ºS

Qelelevu 900m Druadrua 600m Kia 300m Nukubasaga 0 Mali Nukusemanu Nukubalati Cobia Labasa Rabi Batini Waitavala Water Slide (Nasorolevu) Yavu Yanuca Slide down a rocky waterfall (1111m) Tunuloa (p171) LEVU Waisali Peninsula Rainforest Matei it Nanukulailai Reserve Natuvu ra Wailagi St Nanuku Levu Savusavu Somosomo Lala mo moso So TAVEUNI

Naitaba 17ºS

Namenalala Nanuka PassageMalima Avea Yacata Koro Nukutolu Susui Munia Levuka Mago Explore the old colonial Katafaga capital (p140) NORTHERN LAU

Batiki K O R O S E A

Nayau 18ºS Gau

Lakeba Suva Home to Fiji’s finest Aiwa museum (p93) Vanua Vatu Oneata Moala Ororua Moce Komo MOALA Tavu Na Sici Namosi Highlands GROUP Namaku-i-Lau Raft Fiji’s most spectacular river (p87) Nuvutu-i-Ra Yogasa 19ºS Nuvutu-i-Loma SOUTHERN LAU Matuku Ono-i-Lau

To Ono-i-Lau (160km)

180º 179ºW 178ºW OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Dean Starnes Coordinating Author Dean was an impressionable six when he fi rst travelled to Fiji. The week he spent bobbing above the Mamanuca reefs with a leaky mask and a pair of fl oaties ignited a passion that has drawn him back on many occa- sions. Dean was also the coordinating author on the 8th edition of this guide and has worked on Lonely Planet titles for such far-fl ung destinations as Papua New Guinea, Mongolia and East Africa. Dean now lives in Auckland where he alternates between writing for Lonely Planet, freelancing as a graphic designer and shirking re- sponsibilities. His book, Roam; the Art of Travel, and his website, www.deanstarnes.com, feature photography and stories about his wayfaring ways. Read more about Dean at: lonelyplanet.com/members/dean_starnes Celeste Brash Ovalau & the Lomaiviti Group; Vanua Levu & Taveuni; Kadavu, Lau & Moala Groups Celeste fi rst visited Fiji in 1987 and seriously considered running away from home so she could stay there. As an adult she moved to sort-of-nearby French Polynesia, where she lived for 15 years before recently moving back to the US. Her award- winning travel articles and stories have appeared in Travelers’ Tales, LA Times and Islands magazine and numerous other publications. She’s written around 30 Lonely Planet guides on destinations around the world but considers the South Pacifi c her speciality. Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash Virginia Jealous Nadi, Suva & Viti Levu; The Mamanuca & Yasawa Groups Virginia lived, worked and travelled widely in the Pacifi c from 2004 to 2006, and contributed to Lonely Planet’s South Pacifi c guides and the 7th edition of Fiji. Since then she’s been looking for a reason to go back, and was very happy to share a few kava sessions with old friends while shamelessly picking their brains about the current Fiji scene. She was also reassured to fi nd that, despite the vagaries of politics and economics, Fiji welcomes travellers as warmly as ever.

Contributing Author Clement Paligaru Clement wrote the Indo-Fijian Culture chapter. An Australian of Indo-Fijian de- scent, Clement is a radio and television journalist specialising in Asia-Pacifi c aff airs. He has worked for the Australian Broadcasting Corporation for almost 20 years.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 9th edition – September 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 697 1 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Bestselling guide to Fiji – source: Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, March 2011 to February 2012 21

itiner- W hether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

•# Tokoriki Monuriki •# Beachcomber Treasure Matamanoa •# Island •#•# Island Mana •# Garden of the MAMANUCA Sleeping Giant GROUP Port •#•# Castaway •# Sabeto Hot

Denarau É Springs Island •# •# É •#

Malololailai Nadi É

É VITI LEVU

Natadola Beach •# É

É Sigatoka •# Sand Dunes

Ten Days Ten Days in the Sun

Begin your fl ing in Nadi, by taking a day or two to slow down and reset your internal clock to ‘Fiji time’. Some of the best resorts can be found just outside of Nadi at Port Denarau and these are also handy to Denarau’s golf course, shops and restaurants. Spend a morning admiring the orchids at the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, and an afternoon immersed in the nearby Sabeto Hot Springs. Follow this with a day trip climbing the Sigatoka Sand Dunes or horse riding along Natadola Beach. By now you should be suitably relaxed and ready for the beautiful Mamanuca Group. It’s probably best to base yourself on one island rather than spend your precious vacation packing and unpacking. Which resort you choose will largely depend on the style of vaca- tion you’re looking for. Beachcomber Island will appeal to party animals while those with families may prefer child-friendly options like Treasure, Mana and Malololailai islands. If you are wanting something more intimate, try romantic Tokoriki, the versatile Mata- manoa or picture-perfect Castaway. Before returning to Nadi, be sure to take a day trip to Monuriki, made famous in the movie Cast Away starring Tom Hanks. 22

•# Nananu-i-Ra

Rakiraki •#

É

É É É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Lautoka •# É •# Levuka Navala •#

É Nausori f# Ovalau Highlands

•# Nadi É VITI LEVU

É f# •# Momi Guns ITINERARIES Navua Colo-i-Suva Sigatoka Forest Park •# É Natadola Sand River Beach •# •# •# É Dunes •# Coral Coast É •# •# Suva Scenic Railway Korolevu Kula Eco •# É É Pacific •# Park Harbour f# Beqa É

Lagoon •# Frigate Passage •# É

Two to Three Weeks Once Around the Block

This itinerary focuses on Fiji’s ‘mainland’, Viti Levu. With roads and regular buses that circumnavigate the island, it’s possible to construct your own tour and save a packet in the process. If you wanted you could travel the whole circuit in a day using public transport, although if you allow yourself plenty of time for excursions and beachside relaxation, two or three weeks should be ample. Assuming you start in Nadi – although you could begin anywhere – follow the Coral Coast Hwy to the Momi Guns, and Natadola Beach for some horse riding. Chug into the verdant interior on the Coral Coast Scenic Railway or don your sneakers and trek to the top of the Sigatoka Sand Dunes. Kids will love feeding the wildlife at the Kula Eco Park, while mum and dad might enjoy a few days poolside at a resort in Korolevu. Make your way towards Pacifi c Harbour to go diving with sharks in Beqa Lagoon or take a boat trip out to surf at the underrated Frigate Passage. Don’t miss the opportunity to raft the canyons of the Navua River before heading to Suva. Spend a day or two exploring the nation’s capital. Options include taking a crash course on local history at the Fiji Museum or swinging, Tarzan-style, into the refreshing pools at Colo-i-Suva Forest Park. An interesting side trip is to buy a bus/ferry combo ticket to Ovalau, a small island off the coast of eastern Viti Levu. During colonial times Levuka was the nation’s capital and it still retains a good measure of its Wild West vibe. Back on the mainland complete your Viti Levu loop via the northern Kings Road, wind- surfi ng at Nananu-i-Ra or scuba diving at Rakiraki. From here, head back to sugar coun- try and visit Lautoka, the second-largest city and a great base to explore the Nausori Highlands. A good option here is to spend a night or two at the traditional village of Navala before heading back to Nadi. 23 HOLGER LEUE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ITINERARIES

» ( above) Sonaisali Island Resort, HOLGER LEUE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Naisali (p70 ) » ( left) Natadola beach, Viti Levu (p72 )

24

The Yasawa Explorer The Northern Loop PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN •# Labasa •# Cobra Rock

É É VANUA LEVU Tunuloa Waisali Rainforest Peninsula Reserve•# É Somosomo •# •# Rainbow ITINERARIES Savusavu •# Reef TAVEUNI Matacawalevu •# Nacula •#

•#•# Lavena É Nanuya Lailai & Blue Lagoon Waitavala Coastal Naviti•# YASAWA #– Water Slide Walk

É GROUP

Waya •# # •#Wayasewa – f# Beachcomber Island •# Treasure •# Island VITI LEVU •# Port Denarau Suva

(30km)

‚ ‚ ‚

One to Two Weeks Ten Days The Yasawa Explorer The Northern Loop

Thanks to a high-speed catamaran, Beginning in Suva, spend a morn- which daily weaves its way from ing at the excellent Fiji Museum Port Denarau through the Yasawa and then an afternoon stocking up Group and back again, this chain is on souvenirs at the craft market. readily explored. Buy yourself a one- or two- After exhausting Suva’s nightlife, hop on a week pass for the Yasawa Flyer that then fl ight to Vanua Levu and land yourself in allows you to hop on or off the boat at any Labasa, a sugar town where you can smell island you like. the molasses in the air. Visit the Wasavula The boat fi rst heads through a few of the Ceremonial Site and take a side trip to the Mamanucas before reaching the Yasawa mystifying Cobra Rock inside the Naag chain, so these islands are a good place to Mandir Temple. start. With wide sandy beaches and populat- Continue your Vanua Levu adventure by ed by partygoing backpackers, many young jumping on a bus and heading south to Sa- people choose Beachcomber Island as vusavu. Spend a day or two taking in the their fi rst port of call, while families indulge sights, and the evenings talking with visit- in innumerable water sports on Treasure ing skippers over a beer. Take a day trip to Island. the rich and colourful Waisali Rainforest Spend the next few days on the sliver of Reserve, or rent a 4WD and brave the roads sand that connects Wayasewa to Waya to the lesser-travelled Tunuloa Peninsula. before drifting north to Naviti to snorkel Then it’s time to head to gorgeous Taveu- with manta rays. Reboard the Flyer for a ni. If you’ve got sea legs, catch a ferry; if not, dash up to Nacula, or Nanuya Lailai, the fl ight provides some spectacular views. where you can paddle in the Blue Lagoon. Somosomo is a good base from which to ex- From here, leapfrog your way back down plore the surrounding area. Snorkel or dive the chain, stopping at Matacawalevu for at the magnifi cent Rainbow Reef, trek the further bouts of snorkelling and sunbathing Lavena Coastal Walk and scare yourself on the aptly named and horseshoe-shaped silly on the Waitavala Water Slide before Long Beach. heading back to Suva. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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