FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Fiji Fiji 136 © Lonelyplanetpublications Couples, Families,Retirees, Adventurers, Beachbumsandeveryone Inbetween

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Fiji Fiji 136 © LonelyPlanetPublications couples, families,retirees, adventurers, beachbumsandeveryone inbetween. The populationadoptsyouonarrivaland,bestofall,theplacecaters tobackpackers, Taveuni andtheLomaivitiIsles. the romanticsandrecluses there’s harmonytobefoundon theremote shorelines ofthe where youcantaxthecredit cardwithsouvenirs, saris, temples, Hindu andanurbanmélange, mountain villages,archaeological sites, colourful or SomosomoStraitbeneathVanua Levu. Viti Levu, thelargest island,offers aculturalfeast: simply wallow.World-classdivingcanbefoundinthemagical Astrolabe ReefoffKadavu or Yasawas kayak snorkel, toswim,surf, andMamanucasobligewithendlessopportunities or twoabouthowtolookafter precisely visitorsand,more whennotto. importantly, destination. Havingbeeninthetouristgameforseveral decades,Fijians have learnedathing they do. the mostharriedoftourists,andlocalsmanagetoimbueasensegraceintoeverything of Fiji reefs,A sprawlingbrew oflushislandssurroundedbykaleidoscopic themanylandscapes warmth istireless. The cheerofasingle it’sonlyhalfthebeauty.Equallyvibrantareexpectations, theFijian people,whoseunaffected teems withvividcoralandawealthofmarinelife. Butwhilethefaçademeetsbrochure HIGHLIGHTS In a(coco)nutshell,Fiji isarguably theeasiest placeintheSouthPacific totravel around. Most peopleheadhere inthe resorts foradoseofthatsomniferous sun.Comfortable Encompassing some332islands,theFijian archipelagoisthequintessential holiday

and Kadavu’s and Kadavu’s explore Taveuni’s Don amask,finsand maybeeven atankto the Yasawas perfect Succumb tothesunandseaonpostcard- summit inthe Trek yourwaytoa ormountain bike Levuka among theoldwestern buildings of thegood,badorugly like Make in the resort Fling yourselfatthemercyofaparty

interrupt theskylinewithvolcanicbanksofgreen. Beneaththecobaltsea,ocean Mamanuca Group (p190) Oarsman’s BayBeach Great Astrolabe Reef Viti Levu Highlands Somosomo Strait (p178) 18) in ( p188) (p177) (p207) (p202) Bula! (‘Hi! Cheers!Welcome!’allatonce)canrelax (‘Hi! Mamanuca Group Oarsman's Bay Beach Highlands Viti Levu sulus Reef Astrolabe Great andsuperlative cuisine. For Levuka Somosomo Strait

177ºE

180º www.lonelyplanet.com Fiji Fiji 0 100 km FIJI 0 60 miles

To Rotuma Group Cikobia 178ºW (450km, see Inset) ROTUMA GROUP Uea Vetauua Hatana Rotuma Island 16ºS Backpakers Hofliua See Vanua Levu Drua Quelevu Rotuma Map (pp196–7) Kia Drua Same Scale as Main Map Nukusemanu Macuata- Mali Nukubasage i-Wai Nukubalati Labasa Rabi Cobia Nadogo See Yasawa Group Yanuca Map (p185) Vanua Levu Kioa Yalewa Buca Bay Nanuku Yawini Lailai YASAWA Kalou Matei GROUP Yasawa Savusavu Nanuku Wailagi Lala Somosomo Levu Yadua Nacula Matacawa Levu Taveuni Nanuku Nabouwalu Naitaba Yaqeta Passage Bligh Water E6 Vanua Viwa Naviti Malima Balavu Lomaloma Resort; Avea Moana's Guesthouse; Kaidu Kanacea Nawanawa Estate Waya Yacata Cikobia-i-Lau Wayasewa Koro Nukutolu Ellington Wharf Kaibu Island Namalata Susui Rakiraki Resort Munia Ba Makogai Vatu Vara Vomo Mago Karafaga Ovalau Wakaya Vekai Lautoka MAMANUCA Levuka LOMAIVITI Natovi Landing Tuvuca GROUP GROUP Yarous Nadi Viti Levu Motoriki Batiki Nairai Cicia LAU GROUP

Nayau Bau Landing Gau K O R O S E A

Pacific SUVA Harbour Lakeba Sigatoka Aiwa Yanuca Beqa Vanua Vatu See Viti Levu Vatulele Oneata Map (pp148–9) Frigate's Passage Moala Olorau Moce Komo See Kadavu Group KADAVU Tavua Na Sici Map (p208) GROUP Dravuni Buliya Same Scale as Namuka-i-Lau Main Map MOALA Vuaqava Ono Totoya FIJI GROUP Kabara Navutu-i-Ra S O U T H P A C I F I C O C E A N Yagasa Vunisea Ono-i-Lau Same Scale as Marabo Navutu-i-Loma

Main Map To Vatoa 137 Kadavu Matuku

To Ono-i-Lau (140km,

Vatoa Fulaga Ogea Levu (290km, see Inset) see Inset) 19ºS

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 people visitingrelatives. (NZ),and both AustraliaandNewZealand as theycoincidewithschool holidaysin December andJanuary are busymonths such astheMamanuca andYasawa Groups. it’sbesttoheaddrierregionsseason, fun, ifmanic,timetobeinFiji(see p211 ). October orearlyNovember andcanbea gain accommodation.Diwaliisheldinlate tourists andyou’re more likely tofindbar- and March are alsogoodasthere are fewer belowstifling.November,tance February dis- andhumiditysitsacomfortable season Fiji, astemperatures are coolerinthedry much of thesugar-cane industry. under1.2mof water andwipingout Labasa Cyclone Amihitnorthwestern Fiji,leaving of thembeingvery severe. Inearly2003 12 cyclonesperdecade,withtwoorthree hitbyanaverageFiji hasbeen of 10to Novembersummer wetseason, toApril. and Suva’sclimate chart, see p827 . the year. Forgeneral climate information rainfalloccurstober, though throughout (‘winter’) lastsfromMaydry season toOc- (‘summer’) isNovember toAprilandthe Thewetseason 60% to70%inLautoka. ages 70%to80%inSuvayear-round and 18°Cand20°C.Humidityaver-to between andAugust)thetemperature(July candrop reach 31°C,butduringthecoolestmonths theyear.throughout Hotsummerdayscan with average temperatures of around25°C Fiji hasamild,tropicalmaritimeclimate, CLIMATE &WHENTOGO 138 If you’re travelling toFijiduringthewet May toOctoberisthebestperiodvisit coincideswiththe The cycloneseason FIJI FACTS FIJI••Climate&WhentoGo

(Hello), Hindi-Fijian Website: Greeting: Hindi-Fijian Languages: Currency: International telephone code: Land area: Population: Capital city(andisland): www.bulafiji.com

Fijian dollar(F$) Bula 18,300sqkm English,Fijian and 840,000 (Hello),Fijian; Suva (Viti Levu) Suva(Viti Kaise

679 sented withabill for US$45,000.In 1862 sented washeldresponsibleCakobau and pre- fire looted, ‘King’ andnot-so-accidentally mercial agent destroyedby wasaccidentally influence. in islandsociety,instillingalegacy of religion andassumedprivileged pos itions gradually displacedthepriestsof theold from Tahiti andTongainthe1830s.They Fiji, having entered Group theSouthernLau odist missionarieshadfoundtheir wayto sionary Societypastors andWesleyanMeth- of Fiji. Fiji), despite having noreal claimover most known toforeigners asTuiViti(Kingof of became Cakobau Bau, Seru tor, Ratu vic- 1840s totheearly1850s.Theeventual tribal warfare, particularlyfromthelate peans resulted inanincrease inviolent to workaslabourers. trade involved thekidnappingof islanders the buteventually on Fijianplantations, (mainly theSolomonsandVanuatu) towork bourers theSouthPacific fromthroughout originally encouraged theemigrationof la- blackbirding trade(see p46 ). Blackbirding Pacific, andwasthecentre of the notorious one of themainportsof callintheSouth Itbecame onOvalau. atLevuka established hadbeen ing andbeachcomber settlement de-mer European whalers, and sandalwood In theearly19thcenturyFijiwasknownto &Settlement Arrival European nasty andcannibalismbecamecommon. the populationshotup,tribalfeuding got became keen onagriculture andasaresult they stomachs’) content. Around500BC the coastsandfishedtotheirhearts’(and and forabout 1000years theylived along (see mon Islandsinabout 1500BC p39 ), arrived fromVanuatu andtheeastern Solo- people 35 centuriesof TheLapita settlement. Melanesian andMicronesianpeoplesover home Viti. formerlycalledtheir peans. Theinhabitants islands, which wasadopted bytheEuro- ‘ Fiji’ isactually theTongannameforthese Vitians HISTORY In 1849,whenthe homeof aUScom- By themid-19thcenturyLondonMis- The introductionof firearms bytheEuro- Vitian culture wasshapedbyPolynesian, traders. Bythe1830sasmallwhal- www.lonelyplanet.com bêche- October 1874. pronounced aBritishcrowncolonyon10 ing asitsprincipaljustification.Fijiwas ain agreed toannexFiji,citingblackbird- it quicklycrumbled.Twoyears later Brit- government peace, but,unable tomaintain change forland. Polynesia Companyagreed topayitinex- not cleared until1868,whentheAustra lian huge debtwas Cakobau’s toLevuka. settlers but therumours alarge caused influxof cession of Fiji.TheBritishconsuldeclined, the billtocover hisdebts,inexchange for shouldfoot thatBritain proposed Cakobau www.lonelyplanet.com seats and partieswereseats raciallydivided. political lowed the Britishmodel, although administration. The newconstitutionfol- independence after 96 years of colonial discouraged frominteracting withFijians. They were prohibited frombuyinglandand their familiesacross fromIndiatojointhem. theircontractandmanybrought had served girmityas Despite thehardship,vastmajority of people of different caste andreligion tomix. The overcrowded accommodationforced wages, unjusttreatment andrationedfood. were faced withheavy workallocations,low came withhopesof escaping poverty, but to Fijionfive-year workcontracts.Many around 60,537Indianswere transported perfect 1879and1916 solutionandbetween cheap labour. the Indentured labourseemed tion crops,which demandedlarge poolsof the colonialgovernment turnedtoplanta- to make theFijianeconomyself-sufficient, dered expansion. Underincreasing pressure moved geography hin- toSuva,asLevuka’s foreigners wasforbidden. oforder tocurbquibbling,thesale landto into thecolonialadministrationand,in existing Fijianhierarchy wasincorporated The chiefs inordertocontrolthemasses. nial government thesupportof sought the population. Fearing aracialwar,thecolo- sles wipingoutathirdof the indigenous Unrest andepidemicsensued,withmea- occurred attheendof theUSCivilWar. ing theslumpincottonmarket that Fiji’s economybecamedepressed follow- &Independence Colonial Period In 1871 Cakobau formedaFiji-wideIn 1871Cakobau On 10October 1970 Fijiregained its In 1882theadministrative was capital decided to stay in Fiji once they inFiji once they decidedtostay tenure ontheirfarmingleases. be ablewould never tohave secure land and –unlike indigenous Fijians–they Fijians belonged topoorer workingclasses digenous Fijians,thevastmajority of Indo- with makingmoney.Inreality, justlike in- portraying Indo-Fijiansasbeingobsessed families, andaracialstereotype developed were (andstillare) runbyIndo-Fijian ened. Mostshopsandtransportservices racial tensions grew astheeconomywors- about theirfuture. under However, lying (FAP), andFijianswere atfirst optimistic won bytheindigenous FijianAllianceParty leases toIndo-Fijian farmers. leases stake, manyrefused to renew century-old werethat theirtraditional landrights at Fijians were Convinced farfrompleased. hry becameprime minister, andindigenous ation Party. Indo-Fijian Mahendra Chaud- formed acoalitionwiththeFijian Associ- next 10years. ethnic tensions continuedtostew forthe people andprofessionals –emigrated and people –mostlyIndo-Fijianskilled trades- pended. From1987to1992about 50,000 affected andoverseasseriously aidwassus- sources of income,sugarandtourism,were hardship.Theeconomy’stwomain mense efit allindigenous im- Fijians,infactcaused head of state. proclaimedhimself monwealth andRabuka a republic fromtheCom- anddismissed stitution wasinvalidated, Fijiwasdeclared vened force. withmilitary The1970con- Council of Chiefs. interim government supported bytheGreat ment inabloodlesscoupandformedcivil tookoverveni Rabuka theelected govern- after theelections,Lieutenant ColonelSiti- On 14Maysions rose. 1987,onlyamonth labelled ‘Indiandominated’ andracialten- Fijian cabinet,thenewgovernment was prime minister andmajority indigenous- eration Party (NFP).Despite having aFijian elected incoalitionwiththeNationalFed- and inApril1987anFLPgovernment was formation of Party theFijiLabour (FLP), Greater unityamongworkers ledtothe Era oftheCoups The Fiji’s first postindependenceelectionwas In theelectionsof May 1999theFLP The coups,which were toben- supposed againinter- 1987Rabuka In September FIJI •• History FIJI ••History

139

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 came thefaceof thecoup,claimingtorep- businessman George quickly be- Speight including PrimeMinister Chaudhry.Failed parliament inSuvaandtook30hostages, mander Frank Bainimarama, announcedmander Frank Bainimarama, down and theheadof Com- Fiji’smilitary, Chaudhry andMara stepped eventually assment thatmany fledthecountry.Both spread, andIndo-Fijianssuffered such har- multi-ethnic constitutionbeabandoned. Mara Sir Kamisese andthata1997Ratu resignation of bothChaudhryandPresident resent indigenous Fijians. He demandedthe 140 opportunity tohave acatch-upandindulge opportunity seized relatives uponbytheirwell-to-do the subcontinentalmiddle in Fiji weddinginvitations disadvantaged or village-based rela disadvantaged orvillage-based cialise andengageisoneofthecharac rived descendants ofindentured labourers whoar- has ledtothree coupssincethemid-1980s. ers. This tension hascontinuedtothisdayand success didnotgodownterribly wellwithoth- badfriendseither,buttheirthey didn’tmake prosperous. SomeindigenousFijians found andmanywerewere becoming hardworking from India. There wasnodoubtthat Indo-Fijians arrival ofasecondwave ofbusinessmigrants commerce beganinthe1930s,following andmaids. Thepublic servants bigmove into Indo-FijiansOther ransmallstores orbecame ownership oflandbytheBritishGovernment. indigenous Fijians, whohadbeengranted sole many Indo-Fijians onlandmostlyleasedfrom bacco andricefarmshadbeenestablishedby abolished, independentsugar-cane, cotton,to- country. By1919,whenindentured labourwas forged apresence thatpermeates thewhole With enterprise andresilience, Indo-Fijians have enced bytheinfectious Pacific wayoflife. India. Amore laid-backculture evolved, influ- cial mores andrigidities theyhadbroughtfrom compelled todispensewithmanyoftheso- onplantationsandwerecramped quarters different castes were forcedtoshare thesame that set them apart fromotherIndians, that setthemapart Support for Speight’s group waswide- Support forSpeight’s On 19May 2000armedmenentered INDO-FIJIAN HISTORY &CULTURE FIJI••History The majorityoftoday’sIndo-Fijians are the The relative easewithwhichIndo-Fijians so- in Fiji upto130yearsago. Membersof classes. Forexample, from economically especially tives are teristics ClementPaligaru as an in ensured that saris, the colourful Indian ensured thatsaris,thecolourful Many have aweaknessfor and rice,withcondimentscompletingthemeal. straight fromtheoven, steaming-hot curries love homemaderotis(traditionalbreads) served itions, dress MostIndo-Fijians andentertainment. for Indo-Fijians, influencingrituals,culinarytra d - Indo-Fijian package. good measure andyouhave thecore ofthe to ensure asecure future. Addthriftinessfor ofeducationandhardwork ing theimportance to beingindigenousFijian isaboutemphasis- an Indo-Fijian, beingethnicIndianasopposed strong identityinitsadopted homeland.For social codeswouldbefrowneduponinIndia. feasting andcelebration.Suchdisregard for ing aregular Bollywood doseofHindi-language many Indo-Fijians, withlocalcinemasprovid- have adecidedlysubcontinentalflavourfor de rigueur. and Punjabi-influenced by women,remain popularinFiji. The Muslim- Some maygothere toexplore theircultural Indo-Fijians willnever visitthe subcontinent. subcontinental Hindi. theyhavethe onlyconnection withIndiaand value, Bollywoodfilmsalsoprovide manywith fromthepurepop musicvideos. escapism Apart on tap,aswellanendlesssupplyofHindi- systems are often tunedtoprovide Bollywood films andmusic. Indo-Fijian home-entertainment sweets). Tradition,prideandidentity Fijian People’s Party (SLD),won 32of the headingthe Qarase, democracy. Laisenia be taken to thepollsinordertorestore the 1997constitution andruledthatFiji In March 2001theAppealCourtupheld To BeContinued… alife sentence. serving and charged withtreason. He is currently ism sector. arrested was eventually Speight the particularlythetour-economy collapsed, international disapproval and,onceagain, constitution wasrevoked. Thecoupdrew the hostages were released, andthe1997 incaptivity weeks martial law.After eight India remains an important culturalbeaconIndia remains animportant The Indo-Fijian communityhasforged a Entertainment andrecreationEntertainment continueto India remains aculturaltouchstonebutmost salwaar-kameez www.lonelyplanet.com mithai (tra ditional dress worn have also isalso www.lonelyplanet.com marama threatened martial lawifthebill actions. At onestage Commander Baini- 2000 couptodisown responsibility fortheir provisions involved willallowthose inthe thatitsamnesty last coup;opponents say tohealthewounds leftbythewill start has dividedthecountry:supporters it say ciliation, ToleranceandUnity(PRTU) Bill government’s draftPromotionof Recon- theSLDpartyand the FLP.between The members inhiscabinet. of theconstitutionbyincluding noFLP todefythespiritelections andproceeded intheAugust2001 seats 71 parliamentary Elections are usuallyatwo-horse affair der for political agitators seeking toexploittheder forpoliticalagitators seeking differ. These differences have proven richfod- cultural andsocialpriorities,including engage socially.Their economic, educational, sions together,thetwogroupsdon’ttend to andspecialocca- entertainment some sports, fromattendingto thesameschools. Butapart Fijians live sidebyside,worktogetherandgo Large numbersofIndo-Fijians andindigenous century withtheindigenousFijian wayoflife. culture coexisted have forover comfortably a to Fiji thattheyturnforthat. journey asanaffirmationoftheiridentity.Itis of curiosity,butfew are the compelledtotake heritage andancestry,othersmightvisitout Indian jewelleryandusingsariclothfortrad- generally, indigenouswomenare wearing mission settlements,alsospeakFijian. More rural communities,includingformerChristian genous Fijian Elsewhere, artists. Indo-Fijians in recorded andreleased commerciallybyindi- Indo-Fijian music andsongshave even been families immersethemselves inBollywoodfilms. Indo-Fijians speakFiji-Hindi fluently,whiletheir indigenous canefarmerswhoworkalongside Levu andaroundLabasaonVanua Levu, many In Fiji’s canebeltsonthewestern sideofViti both communitiesspeakeachother’slanguage. indigenous Fijians. Increasing numbersfrom mutual culturalexplorationbyIndo-Fijians and ever, thishasnotstalledthemomentumofa search ofeconomicandpoliticalstability.How- by manyindigenousFijians. Indo-Fijians are stillconsidered insecurities ofindigenousFijians. Consequently, Most aspects ofIndo-FijianMost aspects lifestyle and Many Indo-Fijians have leftthecountryin vulagi (visitors) tabu,

with drinksthewayIndo-Fijians dointheir wood DJmixes. bowlsofcurry Barsare serving itional outfits. Nightclubsare playingBolly (Festival placeacrossthenation ofLights)takes chance toexperienceIndo-Fijian culture. Diwali islander food. tion toanindigenousFijian homeanticipating pared foraspicymealifyouacceptaninvita- every secondmealhastobecurry.Sopre- in indigenousFijian life. Inmanyhomes, almost placeistheelevationofIndianfoodhas taken Vunivau aroundOctober. festival isheldattheMariammanTemple in Rd inSamabula. OnVanua Levu, Leela theRam placeat theMariammaTempletakes onHowell festival,walking heldduringJulyorAugust, folksy meals. InSuva theSouthIndianfire- Indo-Fijians gathertowatchritualsandenjoy events includetemple fairs,where thousands of sharing or an Indianscarf fun bywearingsometraditionalgear(perhaps orNovember.around October Youcanjoininthe the thousandsofFijian spectators. dian classicaldancersgreet themalongwith national rugbysidesreturn fromoverseas, In- Fijian–dominated rugby.Andwhenvictorious Fijians are noweven playingtheindigenous nightsandbanter orFijian. inHindi kava Indo- Team membersholdregular curry,beerand role.soccer, continuestoplayanimportant inparticular homes. Acrossthecountry,sport, lengths to make visitors feel welcome. and Fijians of all backgroundsgo togreat alongwayhere, Asmilegoes est asset. the Fijianpeople are the country’sgreat- psyche, which wouldbeashamebecause todelve intothenationalitant too deeply mary of behes- Fiji’s historyyoumight If you’ve justread theforegoing briefsum- NationalPsyche The THE CULTURE tuned… in theoffing. Stay continuous rumours thatanothercoupis strong oppositiontothePRTU Billfuels andthepolicemilitary’s was passed, Annual festivals andevents offer thevisitora But themostamazingtransformationthat mithai region fortheAustralian Broadcasting Corporation. An Indo-Fijian, Clement Paligaru came toAustralia in 1984. He has reported extensively onthePacificin 1984.Hehasreported (sweets)andcandles. Religious bindi FIJI ••TheCulture ontheforehead) and

141

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 male. Each knowledge ahereditary chief whoisusually mataqali Most indigenous Fijianslive invillages in INDIGENOUS FIJIANS Lifestyle candour duringanyvisit. to hearbothsidesof thestoryincomplete of nationalidentity,andyou’resense likely Fijians andIndo-Fijiansremain key toa The different challenges facingindigenous of anynewspaperandyou’llget thegist). of dailylife (justscanthereaders’ letters is rare, butdebate isahealthycomponent ing forvisitors. Face-to-face confrontation which canbedisconcertingifnotconfus- mean‘maybe’or‘no’,a Fijian‘yes’might be toogreat. Notwishing todisappoint, lengths these Sometimes, however, can 142 in evidence. traditional gender rolesare stillvery much tothreaten thevillage’sis seen and stability, beingdifferent ortooambitious servative; tions. Village life issupportive butalsocon- farming andalsohascommunalobliga- they work in. Contact Women’s Action for Changedirectly Women’sAction on they workin.Contact however, forChangeisplanning onexpandingtheareas Women’sAction Suva, NadiorLautoka, young women,tobegin place. totake itpossibleforpositivediscussions thatmake changestothelives ofFijian women, particularly often endinlively discussionswithtraditionalattitudes andbeliefs beingchallenged.It is these limited orsometimesnoprops,andaudiencemembers are encouragedtoparticipate. Shows form ofcommunication.Performances canbecarriedoutanywhere andare often outdoors,with very popularandsuccessfulmethodusedtoworkaroundthisdifficultyisusetheatre asa reproductive healthandviolenceagainstwomenare often toodifficulttodiscussopenly.One cohol abuse,violenceandeven suicide. country,many topicssuchassexuality, As aconservative andpatriarchalattitudes,canhaveclass conflicts tragic consequences,includingdepression, al- isknowntomostinFiji.family situationportrayed of themanylocalNGOs, forChange.Women’s Action thetypeof Whilethisstoryisfictional, Development Agency (IWDA)byagroupofyoungwomenandmen inFiji withhelpfromone resulting eventually familyconflict becomestoomuchfor Priyaandsheendsherlife. have chosen,asisIndiantradition,andnotJerry.The pressure andviolencethatcomeswiththe an indigenousFijian, trainingtobeateacher. hertomarrysomeonethey Priya’sfamilyexpects Priya andJerryare ayoungcoupleinFiji. classIndo-Fijian Priyaisfromaworking family;Jerryis ACTING FORCHANGE Development Agency gotowww.iwda.org.au. schedules orformore formore informationonthe project; details ontheInternational Women’s FIJI••TheCulture Keep a look out for flyers advertising this or other similar plays. Most performances are thisorothersimilarplays. in alookoutforflyersadvertising Keep Mostperformances The play,called ofanewplay, developedPriya’s storyisthesubject with funding from International Women’s Anna StoneisanOverseas Program Manager withIWDAwhoworked inSuva forsixmonthsasan (extended familygroups)andac- mataqali intern forUNIFEM (UnitedNations Development Fund for Women)Pacific RegionalOffice. Another Way isallocated landfor Anna Stone , looksathowvariouspressures, suchasunemployment,poverty, special occasionsfortraditional socialritual,andclansgatheron important sumption of strong, especiallyinremote areas. Thecon- exchange foranobligatoryfavour) are still sharing) and more details. theboxed inSuva. See itan text, p140 , for dressalthough codesare more cosmopol- age. Many womenweartraditionaldress, girls tohave arranged marriages atayoung andinruralareashouse, it’scommonfor the Indo-Fijianculture of today. cultures theyleftbehind.Thisisthebasisfor enterprising societydistinctfromtheIndian grounds, created arelatively unrestricted, communally withIndiansfromdiverse back- forced toundergo, such asadaptingtoliving bourers. Thechanges labourers these were generation descendantsof indentured la- Most of thisgroupare fourth-orfifth- INDO-FIJIANS and Concepts such as Extended familiesoftenExtended live inthesame meke . % yaqona, sevusevu 331 4363 for performance 331 4363forperformance orkava, remains an kerekere (agiftpresented in www.lonelyplanet.com (obligatory lovo feasts feasts www.lonelyplanet.com largely refers toAntipodeans, whoare as numbers of ‘Europeans’ (which inthiscase recover after the 2000coup,increasing European’. heritage makes aperson ‘part- officially ‘Europeans’. Mixed Western andFijian –and Europeans–areNew Zealanders of theirancestors. Australians,Americans, descent are referred tobythenationality Fijiansof‘Chinese’. otherPacific-island areto as‘Indian’,justChinese-Fijians generations theyarefor several referred while manyIndo-Fijianshave lived inFiji ‘Fijian’ meansindigenous Fijian,and notice ontheimmigrationarrivalcard. cording totheirracialorigins,asyou’ll continue toemigrate. largethe population,although numbers labourers. They constitute around 40%of Indo-Fijians are descendantsof indentured physical appearanceandtheirculture. Most there are Polynesianaspectsinboththeir predominantly of Melanesian origin,but the SouthPacific. Indigenous Fijiansare Fiji’s populationisthemostmultiracialin Multiculturalism in Suva. Almost halftheentire populationresides 60% of thepopulationare urbandwellers. 25% of Fijiansare school age, andaround disharmony sinceindependence. About 30 years, dueinnosmallparttopolit ical and growthhasvirtuallyhalved inthelast Fiji’s populationhovers around836,000 Population As thetourismindustrycontinues to The government peopleac- categorises OEN RSUE PRESSURES MODERN modest andoften crowded. the richworld.Spacioushouseswithbiggardensreflect this affluence,butmosthomesare enough. There are exceptionsofcourse,andthesalariessome executives are onaparwith workers andanincreasestreet incrime. kids, many towns. As everywhere, highlevels ofdeprivationhave ledtothepresence ofbeggarsand programmes present different messages. valuesandsendcontradictory socialstructure.comes competitionforjobsandalesssupportive Television’s mostlyimported education, employmentortoescapetherestrictions ofvillagelife, butwithincreased freedom and thewisdomofeldersare often lessrespected. Manyyoungpeopletravel tothecitiesfor Fiji isbecomingincreasingly urbanised,anditisinthe towns andcitiesthattraditionalvalues For thoseinwork,disposableincomeisalmostnonexistent. Withwagesforgovernment This urbandriftisbecomingachallengeforFiji, withsquatter-settlements ontheedgesof around F$150 a week – and just F$50 for unskilled workers–findingrent isoftenaround F$150aweek–andjustF$50forunskilled hard Virginia Jealous the traditional andlow-key. Fijian soundtrack (common inresorts) to performances accompanied byadisco- stories andlegends. Theyvaryfromtouristy genous Visitors are often welcomedwithanindi- Dance is Suva. contemporary workdisplayed place tosee painting andphotography.Themost likely sign, pottery not common, and,though many of theirtraditionalarts. Fijians andotherculturalgroupsalsoretain tourist demand.Indo-Fijians,Chinese- while others are solelytosatisfy practised arts remain anintegral partof theculture, masi and pottery, danceandmusic,making itional arts andcrafts,such aswoodcarving Indigenous Fijianvillagers trad- practise ARTS by about8%. by38%andIslam Hinduism ispractised 52% Christians,about37%are Methodists. pects of Fijiansociety.Ofthecountry’s Religion isextremely in allas- important RELIGION as Savusavu. obvious insomeislandsandtownssuch are are theeffects stilltiny,although clearly percentage of thepopulationnumbers and othertourismventures. As anoverall allows) are resorts immigratingtoestablish geographically farfromEuropeastheglobe Contemporary artincludesfashionde- (barkcloth,alsoknownas meke, a dance performanceenacting FIJI •• Religion FIJI ••Religion tapa ). Some

143

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 artist atwork. are an alsoheldhere see andyoumayeven porary exhibitsof paintingsand carvings free rehearsal mornings.Tem- onweekday thecentre,ise andyoucanusuallywatch a Theatre andotherperformancegroupsutil- Arts &Culture ( p167 ). TheOceaniaDance for ary danceinFijiistheOceaniaCentre and poet Mohit Prasad ( Mohit Prasad and poet note includeSubramani,Satendra Nandan increasingly worked inEnglish. Writers of Thomas. PillaiandLarry Mishra, JoNacola,Raymond wrights, Drama the country. Beach Fiji youth inSuva. DarylTarte’s historicalsaga Streets Veramu’s 1996novel produce grittyandreal literature. C Joseph Fiji’s smallcommunityof andwriters poets Literature 144 clude ture ratesinIndo-Fijian literature. highly 2001). Thethemeof theinjusticeof inden- Teaiwa. Koya and One of the best places to see contempor-One of thebestplacestosee Since the1970sIndo-Fijianwriters have Beyond Ceremony:AnAnthology of Fiji Collections of womenwriters’ in- poetry IDENTITY IDENTITY SEARCHING FORANATIONAL Indian street scenes. mix oflaid-backMelanesianlifestyle and upside ofFiji’s culturalheritageisaheady itors willrarely sensethistension, andthe and thosewithcapitalbutlittlepower. Vis- those whohave powerbutlittlecapital, is ongoing–insimplifiedterms, between ethnic Fijians andentrepreneurial Indians tions. The tension betweenland-owning maintained bysuccessive Fiji administra- been discouragedsincecolonialdays,and topic. The notionofracialintegration has better andworse,itremains ahot shaped thecountry’sculture, forboth equal numbersofFijians andIndianshas Fiji’s of almost demographicmake-up andmore recent novel FIJI••Language lookattheinfluenceof outsiders on is an eye-opener about disaffected isaneye-openeraboutdisaffected Of SchizophrenicOf Voices showcases someof showcases Fiji’splay- including VilsoniHereniko, Sudesh Nei Nim Manoa Virginia Jealous Moving ThroughtheMoving Eating Mangoes, Stalker onthe byTeresia byFrances

the 1987coup. during vant andwasimprisonedbyRabuka civilser-white Fijianwhobecameasenior autobiographyofson istheevocative a centres. lessonsaresitar given atIndiancultural sical dance andpopmusicare popular,asisclas- of aFijianmasswouldbecrime. Missing outontherousingbutdulcettones attendance. of enthusiasticSundayservice extremely popular, thankstothetradition cessful musicexport.ChoralCDsare also Fijian fare. isFiji’smostsuc- BlackRose Dokidoki are examplesof contemporary andVoqaniDelai including DelaiSea like tolocalsonaroadtrip. track outthewindowandwaving comrade- ably Fijianaboutwailingthelatest reggae not areggae fan,there’s somethinginimit- Evenon popularradiostations. ifyou’re Fijian counterparts recycled continuously you’re likely tohearBobMarley andhis fluence oncontemporary Fijian music, and Unsurprisingly, reggae amajor hasbeen in- Music and spoken widely. Hindi but English isthe official language Fijian athome. Indo-Fijians speakFijian- The majority of indigenous Fijians speak LANGUAGE tapa You’ll mostlikely becomeacquainted with Bark Cloth e p57. see charred candlenuts.Formore about from thesootof burnt browns are madefromred clays,andblack of candlenutandmangrove bark; pinker are traditionallymadefromaninfusion carrying symbolicmeaning.Thepaints are printed eitherbyhandorstencil, often texture. Intricate rustandbrownpatterns felted for hours of intosheets afine,even water andscrapedclean,thenbeaten and mulberry bush, whichsoaked has been in is madefromtheinnerbarkof thepaper your first shoppingexpedition.Thecloth Fijian artof making bark cloth,during Kava inthe Blood Music fromBollywoodfilmsandIndian DannyCostello andbands Serevi, Seru (alsoknownas qawwali . Vocal, tabla (percussion) and . Vocal,tabla (1999)byPeter Thom- masi www.lonelyplanet.com dakua or resin and malo ), the tapa, My nameis... No. Yes. Thank you(verymuch). Good, thanks. How are you? youlater.See long-term). Goodbye (ifdeparting Hello (response). Hello. Fijian basics www.lonelyplanet.com ecotourism asanalternative means of butmany villagesstant, are turning to remainssince the1960s. Logging acon- around 15%of forests these seen cleared progress of andthewheels industry have South Pacific. Unfortunately, economic of therichest naturalcommunitiesinthe Fiji’s tropicalforests are hometosome Ecology toria) at1323m. majestic Tomanivi(MtVic- is VitiLevu’s to boilonVanua peak Fiji’shighest Levu. are of volcanicorigin;hotspringscontinue limestone formation,whilethelarger ones The smallerislandsare generally of coralor sq km.Onlyaboutone-thirdare inhabited. at10,400 (‘Greateter Land’) toViti Levu varying from afew those metres indiam- The Fijiarchipelago hasabout332islands, Geography ENVIRONMENT verb endingin thoraa in makingrequests, theword peopleuse ‘thank you’inFijian-Hindi.Tobepolite There are and noequivalents for‘please’ My nameis... What’s yourname? No. Yes. Farewell. Fine response). Hello. (‘Howare you?’) basics Fijian-Hindi often justsay For‘thanks’,people passthesalt). (please (alittle)andaspecialformof the

achhaa naa , eg O yauo Sega. Io. Vinaka (vakalevu). An sabulavinaka. Ni sabula? Au saaliumada. Moce. respectful) Io, bula/Ia,bula Bula! hamaar naam... aapke naamkaa hai? nahi ha fir milegaa tik kaise (good). thoraa nimakdenaa ... . (more

change. issues includingoceanfisheriesandclimate Suva andtheycampaignregionally on extensive coralbleaching. and globalwarminghascontributed to ing techniques are commonly employed anddestructivesevere. fish- Overfishing lem andmarinepollutionnearSuvais the wholeidea. withwithout actuallyfollowingthrough ‘eco’intheirmonikerto includethetag rapid culturalchange. Someresorts like opments bringadditionalpollutionand sensitivelow-impact tourism,even devel- bycan benefitfromtheincomebrought income. whileremote However, villages Greenpeace andWWFhave offices in Waste management isanationalprob- experiences. and isbestenjoyedatthesetopeating Fijian, Indian,Western andChinesestyles, Fijian foodispredominantly ablendof EATING BEST

Pacific. of thefinestsushiandsashimiin up somesuperlative andserve teppanyaki sizzle (p172) Suva and ( p156) The chefs atdelicate DaikokuinNadi Fiji’s finest. the hotandspicydishes are amongst absent fromthetourist brochures, but Tata's ( p156 ) isanunadornedcurryjoint even thetaxidrivers fear them. Ashiyana ( p172 curriessospicy) serves the deep. of traditionalandWestern dishesfrom cater toseafoodfans,withalong menu ( p162 ) andontheCoralCoast( p164 ) Vilisite’s seafood restaurants inSigatoka recommendation youneed. predominantly Chinesecrowdisallthe mornings.cha sessionsonweekend The chaotic, boisterous anddeliciousyum Capital Palace ( p172 ) inSuvahas fish stewed incoconutmilk. taro leaves ina andcooked including café dishingupauthenticFijian fare, Cottage( Old Mill p173 ) isahumble palusami FIJI ••Environment (foodwrappedin lovo ) and

145

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Nadi airport. for informationongetting toandfrom Nadi and24kmsouthof See Lautoka. p150 International Airport,9kmnorthof central lers arrive inthewestof theislandatNadi main port,isinthesoutheast.Mosttravel- largestSuva, thecountry’scapital, cityand ORIENTATION expected.never wealth of landscapesandactivitiesthey isthe‘otherFiji’,offering visitors a Levu Viti cuisine andurbanactivity.Inaphrase, the SouthPacific, isasultryhubof culture, reef justoffshore. Suva,thelargest cityin along theCoralCoast,overlooking avivid resortscomfortable skirttheisland’ssouth and visitatraditionalvillage. Aribbonof freshenmountains, upunderawaterfall and steamywhere highlands youcantrek isitsinterior –amassof est asset dense great-offering surfandsun,VitiLevu’s 75% of thepopulationreside. than Rather try, commerceandpoliticsturn,about a great chief. It’swhere of thewheels indus- archipelago, presides over thecountrylike thelargest islandintheFijian Viti Levu, pop 581,000/area10,400sqkm VITI LEVU 146 energetic, minglewiththewildlife at of theoffshore reef andsomehealthypampering. Viti Levu’s fineststretch ( yourwaytoaCoralCoastresort ofsand,andthenmake p164 ) forviews ( p153 ), thenhitthesouvenir ( shopsandmarkets p157 ) toputadentinyourwallet. nightlife at ( p166 ), fuelupon a curryorFijian specialityatthe tour upthe Continue yourViti Levu explorationwithadoseofdivingin One Week then soakupthealcoholwithaFiji-Mex feast atthe ascent ofhills. Onyourreturn toNadienjoyyourfirstFiji Bitter atatmospheric ( atourtotheNausoriHighlands of itbybooking p151 ) toseewhatliesbeyondthattumbling you’llland In alllikelihood inNadi–Fiji’s international airhub.Whileyou’re there, themost make Four Days VITI LEVUIN… Pacific VITI LEVU ••Orientation VITILEVU On dayfourscrambleupanddownthe Day three is all about the coast. Start out withamorningpicnicat Day three isallaboutthecoast.Start On daytwogetouttatownandintothevividorchidsat Day sixshouldplace youfirmlyinSuva,where youcanmeander throughthe (p165). Traps Bar Navua River ( p173 ). ( p165 ). Resttheboneswithanindulgentnight atthe Kula EcoPark Sigatoka SandDunes Sigatoka Pde, Suva) and Bukuya (via Ba, NadiandSigatoka). and Bukuya(viaBa, villagesthe NausoriHighlands’ of Navala Tomanivi (MtVictoria)at1323m. point– isFiji’shighest South of Rakiraki (onthenorthcoast),andLautoka. and Ba located), theeastern Rakiraki highlands, Nausori(wherethrough Suva’sairportis andtravelsRd ismostlysealed for265km known astheCoralCoast. thescattering oftains villages andresorts (221km)andcon- perimeter of VitiLevu Rdwhich runsalongthesouthern Queens Connect Internet Café Internet Connect Café Bula Internet Alpha Computer Access Internet Suva Bookstore Fiji Museum Bookmasters Bookshops INFORMATION 6, Connect Arcade,Lot7,QueensRd,Nadi) 6, Connect Suva) Guidebooks,paperbacks,novelsandmaps. selection ofFijianselection history,culture andwildlife literature. shopstocksanexcellent Rd, Suva)Themuseumgift Old MillCottage (p163). Three roadsheadupfromthecoastto Heading northfromSuva,theKings Nadi andSuvaare linked bythesealed Lazy Cactus Mp p168; (Map Mp p168; (Map Beqa Lagoon Garden oftheSleepingGiant ( ( p156 ). (Map (Map p168 ; ( p162 ) or,forsomethingless % ( p173 ) andsavour theSuva (Map (Map p152 St,Nadi) ; Main 331 1355;Greig St,Suva) Natadola Beach Mp p152; (Map % % 331 5944; Ratu Cakobau 331 5944;Ratu www.lonelyplanet.com % 331 888; 173 Victoria Pde, 331 888;173Victoria ( p165 ) orakayak Ed’s Bar 330 0211; 181 Victoria 330 0211;181Victoria % Pearl South Fiji Museum 670 7365;Shop (p160), ( p157 ),

Ellery St,Suva) ShoppingCentre, 3770; Shop13,DowntownBoulevard Lautoka) Prouds Bldg, Main St,Nadi) Prouds Bldg,Main Valley Rd,Sigatoka) Sigatoka Renwick Rd,Suva)Wireless access.Renwick Fintel Café Internet Connect www.lonelyplanet.com South Pacific Tourism Organisation South Pacific Tourism Information Tourist Post office Post office Tavewa Ave, Lautoka) Post office Post Money Exchange Just Exchange exchange facilitiesare limited toresorts. cities ATMs are virtuallynonexistent and International Airport.Outsideof these YoucanalsoexchangeVisa. cash atNadi ities andATMs thatacceptMasterCard and and Suva. Most have foreign exchange facil- branches are abundant inNadi,Lautoka andWestpac ANZ, ColonialNationalBank Money Nadi Hospital Hospital Lautoka Clinic &Surgical Medical Gerona cnr Amy&Brewster Sts,Suva) ChamberFacilityFiji Recompression Hospital Colonial WarMemorial 33EllerySt,Suva) FNPF DowntownBoulevard, Centre Medical Boulevard Pharmacy Central Boulevard Clinic Medical All Care Services Medical Café TWicks Internet ofCappuccino Republic Café Internet Loftus St & Victoria Pde,Suva; St&Victoria Loftus % Useful agency andwebsite. Internet access. The Fiji InternationalTelecommunications officeoffers Office Bldg,10ThomsonSt,Suva) Office St, Suva) 3444; WaimanuRd,Suva) Nadi) Colonial Plaza,QueensRd,Namaka, Rd, Sigatoka) Independent foreign currency exchange: 330 4177;www.spto.org; 3rdfl, DolphinPlaza,cnr Mp p168; (Map (Map (Map (Map (Map p168 ; p158; (Map (Map (Map (Map (Map p158 ; cnrNararaPde&Tavewa Ave, (Map (Map p152 ; p152 % Mp p168; (Map ( % p152 ; 331 2933; 158 Victoria Pde,Suva) 331 2933;158Victoria ( % % % 666 0399;ThomsonCres, Lautoka) (Map (Map p152 ; % Mp p168; (Map ; (Map (Map p168 ; % 670 0001; Sahu Khan Rd,Nadi) Khan 670 0001;Sahu % 330 2022;ThomsonSt,Suva) 666 0987;cnrVitogoPde& 652 0928; 50 Sigatoka Valley 652 0928;50Sigatoka h Mp p168; (Map 670 1128; Market Rd,Nadi) 670 1128;Market % 670 5477;Groundfl, Mp p168; (Map 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) 330 3566;Thomson Mp p168; (Map ( % % % % Mp p168 ; (Map ( 672 0960; 330 0777;Post % 652 0128; % 330 0828; % 331 3355; 885 0630; % 330 331 672 1992; Upstairs, Nadi airport concourse,Nadi) 672 1992;Upstairs,Nadiairport Flyer St,Nadi)Operatesthe somefiji.com; 2/534Main the FVB. h 2433; www.bulafiji.com;cnrThomson&ScottSts,Suva; Pde, Suva) Pde, Suva) airline offices. national Airport. See p213 of fordetails Most travellers arrive inFijiatNadiInter- AIR &Away There Getting TRANSPORT a guide. there inagrouporpaytheminimalfee for Colo-i-Suva Forest Park (see p167 ), sohead safe (see p150 ). do soaswell.Taxis are metered, cheap and of foradistance even 300m,soyoushould from duskonwardslocalswillcatch ataxi, no go. ThisisparticularlypertinentinSuva– beginstodescendit’sa assoonnight ever, hourslight isaperfectly safe exercise; how- dance floors. Walkingaroundduringday- larly incrowdedareas like themarket or so keep yourvaluablesoutof particu- sight, Suva offer somedangers. Pickpockets roam, and centres,most urbanised Nadi,Lautoka ception, particularlyinruralareas. As with and mostvisitors willencounter awarmre- iseasyandsafe Travelling aroundVitiLevu DANGERS &ANNOYANCES Sun Vacations Rosie Holidays Service Travel Margaret Hunts Travel Fiji Awesome Adventures Agencies Travel informationcentre Visitor informationcentre Visitor cruises, accommodation and Thrifty CarRental. cruises, accommodationandThrifty concourse,Nadi)Organisesroadtours, com; Nadiairport vacationsfiji.com; Nadi airport concourse,Nadi) vacationsfiji.com; Nadiairport Domestic andinternationalflights,plushotelscars. 1st fl,DominionHouseArcade,ThomsonSt,Suva) information service. the Fiji VisitorsBureau (FVB),thegovernment-runtourist h Nadi; www.bulafiji.com; Suite107,ColonialPlaza,Namaka, Air Fiji There have reports been of in muggings 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noonSat)Suvaofficeof 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, Headofficeof 8am-4pmFri) VITI LEVU ••Dangers&Annoyances VITI LEVU totheYasawa Groups(see andMamanuca p184 ). and provide agood networkof domestic

( % Mp p168; (Map Mp p152; (Map Sun Air Mp p152; (Map 331 3666; www.airfiji.com.fj; 185 Victoria 185Victoria 331 3666;www.airfiji.com.fj;

( % % Mp p152; (Map % % ( 330 8979; www.fiji.to; Vic 330 8979;www.fiji.to; Vic toria Mp p152; (Map (Map (Map p168 ; % 331 5288;fax3302212; 672 4273;www.sun 672 2755;www.rosiefiji. 675 0499;www.awe % % % 672 1988;fax 330 672 2433; Yasawa

147

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 148 Vt Levu Viti 4 6 1 3 2 5 Mana VITI LEVU (p179) Group Map See Mamanuka Yanuya Castaway Matamanoa Barrier Malolo Reef VITI LEVU VITILEVU Island Tokoriki SLEEPING Naviti Resort...... Natadola BeachResort...... Nase Lodge...... Namatakula VillageHomestay...... Lawaki BeachHouse...... Lagoon Resort...... First LandingResort...... Deuba Inn...... Crusoe's Retreat...... Club CoralCoast...... (see1) Bulou’s Lodge&BackpackerHostel.. Beqa LagoonResort...... Bekana GardenIslandResort...... Bedarra Inn...... (see30) Beachhouse...... Batiluva...... Dive Site Ferry Namotu Robinson CrusoeIsland YASAWA ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ MAMANUCA GROUP Navini GROUP Waya Wayasewa Tavarua A Na Beachcomber

vu Island Malolo la (Tai) Island) Pa (Plantation Malololailai

Lomawai Rd ss (Likuri) Ka LevuSouthPacificCultural SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Wacking StickAdventureTours.....(see28) Tavuni HillFort...... Subsurface Fiji...... (see14) Sigatoka SandDunes...... Rivers Fiji...... (see1) Naihehe Cave...... Momi Guns...... Kula EcoPark...... Centre...... (see26) Greens SouthPacific...... (see1) Coral CoastScenicRailway...... (see26) Arts Village&Marketplace...... Aqua-Trek...... (see 1) Abaca VisitorCentre...... (see18) Vomo Momi ag Bay e Natadola Vusama 23 25 (Elevuka) Beach Treasure Scenic Railway Landing Uciwai Island 3 Coral Coast Tau 24 Denarau Old QueensRd Island ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ Naisali 19 Queens Rd See NadiMap Maro Saweni Beach 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Nawau Likuri Landing Sanasana (p152) 9 8 7 Rd Beach Cuvu Point Vuda D3 E6 B2 D5 E6 C5 B5 C3 D5 E6 E5 B3 E5 D5 Ferry 27 Lomolomo Yanuca 14 B Yanuca Island Resort...... (see7) Wellesley Resort...... Wananavu BeachResort...... Vakaviti...... Tubakula BeachBungalows...... (see 21) Tambua SandsBeachResort...... Stoney CreekResort...... Sonaisali IslandResort...... Shangri-La's FijianResort...... Seashell Surf&DiveResort...... Sandy PointBeachCottages...... (see21) Robinson CrusoeIslandResort...... Rendezvous BeachResort...... Pearl SouthPacific...... Pacific SafariClub...... (see1) Outrigger ontheLagoon...... Nadi 26 Ferry Viseisei 9 Tilivalevu Namaka Cuvu Sigatoka Lautoka Vunimoli 6 5 4 3 2 1 Nakabuta Sleeping Giant Garden ofthe Vitogo

C5 B5 C4 A4 C5 E5 ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὈὈ ὄὈὈ ὄ ὄὄὄ Kulukulu Lawai S

5 River Nadi

i Narewa g

Naboutini Naduri a 18

t Kings Rd Korotogo o Vakabuli Lololo Pine

Abaca k Forest (1076m) Naroro

Koroba 30 a 6

21 V Nadrala Sovi Bay a Mt Koroyanitu National Heritage (Mt Evans)

l (1195m) 2 Tubairata l Koroyanitu

e Nailaga Patterson Brothers 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 Sugar Mill y C Park Nausori Vatukarasa Highlands Nausori Sigatoka Rarawai D5 E1 C5 C5 B3 B3 B5 A4 B4 A3 E5 C5 ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ

29 T Vaturu

Dam h

Mangondro Vatulele e 4

River (889m) Island Mt Keiyasi

Korolevu C 20

o Ellington Wharf –

Balevuto

r a (Mt Gordon, River

Toge l Vatia Point Tuvutau (933m) www.lonelyplanet.com Laya Waterfall Bukuya Savu NaMate Biasevu

Ba Back

C Viti Levu

8 Rd o Emperor 11

12 a Mine Gold

ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ s

Nabouwalu – Labasa Navala

Bligh Water t Korolevu Naboutini Tavua 32 D Nanoko

Vatukoula Frigate's Pass Upper Navua Upper Nagatagata Rairaimatuku Nabukelevu Koro Korovou Plateau Nubutautau Nadarivatu Korovisilou Plateau Nadrau Serua Monavatu Nadele (913m) Nadrau Rabula ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ www.lonelyplanet.com Frigate's Monasavu Waimogi Qaloa 7 Passage Luva Gorge Navai Yanuca Mt Lomalagi ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ Dam Streets Side Nuku

Naseyani Nakavika 13 1

Beqa Passage Wainadiro Wainikoroiluva River Wainikoroiluva Togowere Kings Rd Caesar's (Mt Victoria, Vatukacevaceva Rock Lagoon Tomanivi 33 Beqa 1323m) Nakavu

N Koro-ni-O

Deuba River

16 a Pacific Harbour Namuamua E 15 Navua

22 Nukusere Wainibuka k Malake Beqa a Saliadrau

u Vitawa v 10 a Waiyanitu d

Namosi Highlands Wainimala Laselevu r To Nabouwalu Burelevu Vanuakula a Vaileka

ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ

Naitauvoli River Naiserelagi Nanukuloa (40km) Navua R 31 Rakiraki Nabukavesi a Queens Rd Namara n Waivaka g

S OUTHPACIF IC e River Wairuarua Naivucini Ferry Viti Levu Ellington Wharf Nananu-i-Ra Viti Levu Kalokolevu Bay Nananu-i-Cake Nabukaluka Matawailevu To Kadavu Navuniyasi O CEAN Dama Nalalawa (36km) Nasau Waiqa Gorge Mt Korobaba F (429m) Serea ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ Nagai Vunidawa Nayavutoka Natokalau Naiuwai Wailotua To E6(DiveSite,

Savu

Harbour Colo-i-Suva Rd Kings Forest Park 55km) Namarai Suva Lami Soa Baulevu Ferry Mt Tova (647m) Waterfall Dakunivuna

Nasau Rewa Dawasuma SUVA Sawani Tamavua Sote Suva Airport Laucala River Korovou ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ Bay Wainibokasi Silana Baravi Handicrafts...... Baravi Handicrafts...... SHOPPING Bernie's Bar...... (see 26) DRINKING Vilisite's Restaurant...... Pic NPacSupermarket...... (see33) Pastry Bure...... (see33) Oasis Restaurant...... Mantarae Restaurant...... (see22) Le Café...... (see30) Lagoon ResortRestaurant...... (see15) Kai YanuyanuRestaurant...... (see13) Ice BarRestaurant...... (see21) Gecko's Restaurant...... (see26) First LandingSeafoodRestaurant...(see14) Bedarra InnRestaurant...... (see30) EATING Naivicula Lodoni Nukulau Landing To Nabouwalu Landing

Natovi

Kasavu G Verata Kings Rd Kings (25km) Nausori Lokia Waidalice Nakelo Landing Landing Namuka Kumi 0 0 ὅὅ ὅὅ ὅὅ Viwa Bau Bau Landing Cautata Ucunivanua Bird Sanctuary& Mangroves Nasilai Reef ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ Nasilai Leleuvia Motoriki LOMAIVITI Landing Buresala Dive Site Caqalai Naigani GROUP Toberua Airport 36 35 34 33 35 VITI LEVU VITI LEVU Lovoni To Savusavu(130km); D5 H3 C5 E5 H Rukuruku Dive Site Ovalau Taveuni (150km); Rotuma (500km) Tokou To MoalaGroup Levuka Levu Yanuca Yanuca Draiba To LauGroup Devokula ὄ ὄ ὄ 12 miles (250km) (170km) 20 km Ferry

149

4 6 1 3 2 5

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Main routes fromNadiinclude Taveuni (F$280)andSuva(F$170). (F$230), Savusavu (F$220), (F$330), Labasa vehicles awaitinginternational flights. is F$10.Most of thehotels have free transfer Rdtotown(65c);ataxi along theQueens from justoutsidetheairportlocal buses of downtown Nadi, andthere are frequent Nadi International Airportis9kmnorth TO/FROM THEAIRPORT atthefinalvillage.day stays get stranded–sometimesthelastbus of the check that there is areturn bus soyoudon’t heading toanisolatedtion). Before area, (see on VitiLevu p215 formore informa- and Pacific Transportare themaincarriers andKingsRds.SunbeamTransport Queens and carriers ziparoundtheislandvia minibuses touristbuses, Express buses, Around Getting Shipping Western Cruises South Sea Saliabasaga Shipping Sails toVanua Levu (see p194 (see ) andLevuka p190 ). Nina St); % BrothersShipping Patterson Shipping Kadavu Shipping Consort Beachcomber Cruises Awesome Adventures to theouter islands: linkVitiLevu The followingferry services BOAT Group;and (F$200) intheLau (F$200); Rotuma(F$430);Vanua Balavu Savusavu (F$160)onVanua Taveuni Levu; include: Kadavu (F$210)and (F$260); Labasa other larger islands.Main routes fromSuva fromNadiandSuvatomanyof flights the 150 the Mamanuca islands(see the Mamanuca p179 ). Denarau, Nadi)Fast to catamaransfromDenarauMarina Sails fromSuvatotheLauGroup(see p209 ). Suva) FollowsthesamerouteasBeachcomberCruises. 3389; Groundfl,DominionHouseArcade,ThomsonSt, Sails toRotuma(see p189 ). Mamanuca andYasawaMamanuca Groupislands(see p184 ). St,Nadi)Largecatamarantothe fiji.com; 2/534Main se p207). (see Rona St,WaluBay,Suva)SailsbetweenSuvaandKadavu Savusavu (see p194 ) andthenontoTaveuni ( p200 ). SailsfromSuvato 1WaluSt,Lautoka) comberfiji.com; 331 5644; fax 330 1652; Suites 1 & 2, Epworth Arcade, 331 5644;fax3301652;Suites1&2,Epworth VITI LEVU ••VitiLevu ForChildren VITILEVU Lautoka (Map (Map p158 ; ( (Map (Map p168 ; ( ( % % % ( ( ( 331 1766,3395000,5788; % 675 0500; www.ssc.com.fj; Port 675 0500;www.ssc.com.fj; Port % 331 4467; Naryan Jetty, Suva) 331 4467;NaryanJetty, % % 666 1500;www.beach 330 3403;WaluBay,Suva) 675 0499;www.awesome % 666 1173;15Tukani St) Suva 330 2877;fax (Map (Map p168 ; Nadi (F$170). Nadi (F$170). Kadavu Kadavu 330 4178) Suva bus station foraboutF$1.65. Suva busstation then catch oneof thefrequent to localbuses (aboutF$3), bytaxi Nausori’s busstation is futile).Alternatively, cover the3kmto F$20(debatedowntown Suvacostsaset toorfrom Holiday InninSuva(F$3).Ataxi port, but Suvaandtheair-direct between localbuses northeast of downtownSuva. There are no also take themforadip withlocalfamilies capture inquisitive young minds. Youcan cannibal utensils – cultural andhistorical exhibits(including have abundantactivitiestooccupykids. Yasawa Groupislands a resort ononeof the intheNadiarea,staying to tryadaycruise ilies withyoungtackers intow.Ifyou’re Fiji’s mainisland has plentytooffer fam- FOR CHILDREN VITI LEVU Sanyo Cabs TaxiRatan’s Piccadilly Taxis Jason’s Taxis Taxi Carnarvon out: setting where toagree youneed onapricebefore Taxis generally meters onlyuse inSuva;else- TAXI p216 of fordetails car-hire companies. roads you’llgenerally a4WD.See need highland fortheunsealed cycle, although iseasytoexplore bycarormotor-Viti Levu CAR &MOTORCYCLE Eco Park domesticated wildlife attheexcellent dola Beach them forabeachside horse rideat of attractionsthatwillappealtokids.Take Pacific Harbour. demonstrations atthe dren. Alittlemore kitsch and flashyare the and ceremonies thatwillentertainchil- p161 Fijiansinging,dancing) showcases the appreciation of Fiji’slandscape. Nearby, (see p161 ) isafunwayforkidstogainan Nausori International Airportis23km The A dayonthe The CoralCoastishometoanumber Ka Levu South Pacific Cultural Centre Centre SouthPacific Cultural Levu Ka ( p163 ). hasregular toandfromthe buses Fiji Museum Nausori TaxiNausori &BusService ( ( p160 ) orshow themFiji’sless- ( % ( % % ( ( 330 4541)Suva % % 346 0329)Pacific Harbour 337 2220)Suva 330 4302; 331 5315)Suva Coral CoastScenicRailway ( p166 ) ischoc-full of ( p185 ), manyof which eeeewwwww! Arts Village Village Arts www.lonelyplanet.com Mamanuca h 24hr) Suva

( ( p180 ) or % ) thatwill 14) in ( p164) 331 2185, Nata- (see Kula

4673, 9953003;www.wackingstickadventures.com) ing andwindsurfinghere. dation. Kidscanalsoparticipate inkayak- accommo- a goodamountof self-catering offers calmswimmingandsnorkelling, and is onlyashorthopfromthemainlandand make itperfect foralunch pitstop. atthisesplanadeplayground picnic tables the family-infested then have aswingonthemonkey bars at at the www.lonelyplanet.com for one-day/three-day tours. for one-day/three-day toursforsmallgroupsfromF$130/240perperson trekking Tours ing StickAdventure more information. take day-trippers. See p180 and usually andCastaway Mana, Beachcomber p185 for understandably popular. Malololailai, manuca and Yasawa Groupislandsare tothestunningMa-Day tripsandcruises TOURS amu Trek isonatour. Highlands Levu day/day. fromF$120/135perhalf- the highlands offers excellentmountain-biking tours into Mountain View Tours Mountain View from Nadi: hotels and Lautoka clude meals,drinksandtransfers fromNadi commodation isinvillages andtours in- stretches Ac- NadiandLautoka. between 2½-day tours uptheSabetoValley, which person F$360;Tue &Thumid-Apr–mid-Nov) Off the northern coast, thenortherncoast, Off Based atStoneyCreek Resort( Based p154 ), The easiestwaytovisitthemajestic Viti Additional highland toursAdditional highland pickingup the firewalking ceremony,the firewalking leads tobalance,self-acceptance andthe abilitytoseegood inall. the Great Mother. Life onfire: iscompared thatrequired adisciplinedapproach, like towalking in outermost covering). The white andsweet water kernel represent thepure soulwithin. three weaknesses: egotism(thehardshell),delusionfibre) andmaterial attachments(the sents and flowerssymbolisetheGreat Motherwhopersonifies nature, whileburning camphorrepre- a temple. ding thebodyofimpurities–henceno meatinthebellyorshoesonfeet whenentering residence unionwithGodcanbeachieved of thesoul.ForHindus, throughprayerandbyrid- Tiny temples Hindu andshrinesdottheFijian countryside,eachonesymbolisingthebody or SYMBOLISM HINDU Hindus believe willbecomeonewith Hindus thatabodyenslaved tothespiritanddeniedall comforts Inside thetemples give Hindus symbolicofferings andblessingstotheirmanygods. Water Suva OlympicSwimmingPool the lightofknowledgeandunderstanding. humans’ Smashingacoconutdenotes cracking

( % 664 5747,9273592;fax5547;per ( % Umaria Park Umaria 651 3620)Sightseeingand

Mp pp148-97; (Map Nananu-i-Ra ( p169 ). The 17) and (p167) Mount Batil- organises organises (p176) % Wack- 672

daily) wake. Thesoothinggroundsare anexcellent Highlands fromF$190 per person. Highlands totheNamosi trips andkayaking .com) River-rafting or justchill forawhile. Thetemple itself spot tocontemplate philosophicaltheories… temple mountainous backdrop, thispeacefulHindu againstadramatic Striking avibrantpose SRI SIVA SUBRAMANIYA SWAMI TEMPLE Sights more fully. ing from,you’re likely toenjoytheplace you get yourheadaroundwhere it’scom- it’s theantithesisof once islandparadise; last-minute giftsbefore headinghome. mercial options,andagoodplacetograb or soof shopping,eatingandothercom- offshore islands.‘Downtown’ isakilometre orto toorganise tripsaroundVitiLevu base by thehazyNausoriHighlands. Rd, andthenorthernhorizonisdominated strung outalongdustypatches of Queens The populationresides villages inseveral flowofstant travellers headinginorout. tered withhotels toaccommodate thecon- is really anever-growing urbansprawl,lit- This town-cum-city-cum-business centre to localsandalotof nothingtovisitors. Fiji’s maintouristhubisabitof everything pop 30,900 NADI Rosie Holidays Fiji Rivers .com) Nausori Highland daytreks perpersonF$80. Highland .com) Nausori Nadi makes nobonesaboutthefactthat While uninspiring, Nadi isaconvenient leaves thehustleof Main Stfarinits

( % (Map (Map pp148-97 ; 670 0016;admissionF$3.50; Mp p152; (Map VITI LEVU ••Tours VITI LEVU % % 345 0147;www.riversfiji 672 2935;www.rosiefiji h 5am-8pm

151

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 152 Nadi Sheraton Resorts(5km); Denarau Marina(5km); To DenarauIsland(5km); Dive Tropex(5km)

(187km) To Suva Yav 4 6 1 3 2 5

NADI

(Narewa Rd) (Narewa Denarau Rd Denarau 22 usa VITI LEVU ••Nadi VITILEVU Westpac

nia Vunavau Rd Vunavau Bank Sagayam Rd

Rd National Bank Park St Park Nadi 15 ὈὈ ὄ ὄὄ Ὀ AC 37 43 12 0.1miles 0 0 17 44 46 29

Nadi Bay Nadi River Koroivolu Ave Koroivolu Wailoaloa M Nadi Back Rd ain St (Queens Rd) Beach 2 45

See Enlargement Central

11 Telecom Rd Ashram

Nadi Naitavo La 10

36 Clay St Clay 7

8 Ot Queens Rd Sahu Khan 38 ANZ Bank

New TownBeach

u 48 Rd Enamanu 30 na 33 5 34 4

Hospital (400m)

Hospital Rd Hospital

Nadi Back Rd ὄ St Sukuna

To BusStation

River (100m); Nadi

47 6 Wailoaloa Rd Wailoaloa 31 Kennedy Ave Vunalolo St 1

Nadi Bay Rd 200 m 39 B 19 28 14 20 32 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Sri SivaSubramaniyaSwami B6 Nadi Hospital...... Turtle Airways...... Temple...... Mosque...... Captain CookCruises...... AquaBlue...... (see 14) Visitor InformationCentre...... (see3) Sun Vacations...... (see9) Rosie Holidays...... (see9) Post Office...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Margaret TravelService...... (see9) Just Exchange...... Connect InternetCafé...... Colonial Plaza...... Canadian Consulate...... (see9) Bula InternetCafé...... Awesome AdventuresFiji...... ANZ Bank...... (see9) All CareMedicalClinic...... (see3) EATING Tata's...... Supermarket...... (see 3) Supermarket...... Sentai SeafoodRestaurant...... Saffron theCorner...... RJs Restaurant&Bar...... Market...... Mama's PizzaInn...... (see3) Mama's Pizza...... Lazy Cactus...... Daikoku...... Continental Cakes&Pizza...... Chefs, theEdge...... Bakery...... (see 3) Chefs, theRestaurant...... (see29) 13 35

41 Gray 18 24 16 St 40 25 Martintar Ragg St Nadi River International Nadi Back Rd 3 Airport 21 Nadi 13 12 11 10 2km 1mile 0 0 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

B3 A3 A5 A6 D3 A2 A3 B1 B1 C4 A2 B1

B3 A1 A2 A1 B4 B2 A1 B5 B1 B1 A1 Queens Rd Nawson

Solovi Rd Solovi Rd

SLEEPING Tropic ofCapricorn...... Tokatoka ResortHotel...... Tanoa Apartments...... Rosie ServicedApartments...... Raffles GatewayHotel...... Ocean's Edge...... Nomads Skylodge...... New TownBeachMotel...... Nadi BayResortHotel...... Mercure HotelNadi...... Club FijiResort...... Capricorn InternationalHotel...... Beachside Resort...... Aquarius Fiji...... adlodLde...... B4 Sandalwood Lodge...... Highlands Sleeping Giant(8km); TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING a’ adcat...... B1 Nad’s Handicrafts...... Bus Station...... Nadi HandicraftMarket...... Jack's Handicrafts...... Fiji Surf...... Novelty Cinema...... Galaxy 2Cinema...... Ed's Bar...... Bounty Restaurant&Bar...... Namaka To Gardenofthe Lautoka (24km) 9 Highlands (28km); Bukuya (45km)

www.lonelyplanet.com

To Nausori

Miegunyah

Nadi Back Nadi Rd

23 26

Votualevu Rd Votualevu Legalega Rd Legalega D 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 B5 A4 B4 B4 D3 D4 B4 D3 A5 C4 B4 B4 B4 A4 B6 A3 A1 A2 A3 A1 B4 B4 Beach, Nadi) holes. Clubs andpull-cart are anextra F$30. amid a sea of tropicalvegetation.amid asea Tucked dozens of varietiesof thecolourfulflower F$120/185, PADI openwatercourseF$670. dives Denarau)One-/two-tank Sheraton Fiji Resort, tank divesF$120/160,PADI openwatercourseF$500. Lot 33,WasawasaRd,NewTownBeach,Nadi)One-/two- inside thetemple. cohol ormeat thatday.Don’tsnapphotos dressed modestlyand haven’t consumedal- rains. seasonal of nature. He istheguardiandeityof the Lord Muruganisequivalenttotheworship exterior andvividfrescoes. with theartistswhopainted themultihued that travelled allthewayfromIndia,along woodendeities is decorated withcarved www.lonelyplanet.com The GOLF &TENNIS Fiji Subsurface Tropex Dive AquaBlue reputations: the Mamanucas andcomewithexcellent Nadi area, allof which visitdive sites in There are three gooddivingoutfitsinthe DIVING Activities fromNadiwillcostaroundF$13. A taxi turn eastontoWailokoRdforafurther2km. Rd forabout6kmnorthof Nadiairportand spots. Toget here, travel alongtheQueens walking tracks,lilypondsandperfect picnic range, thegardenoffers visitors anetworkof beneath thefoothillsof theSabetomountain This beautiful GARDEN OFTHESLEEPINGGIANT F$12 perperson. hire is a syntheticorgrass court.Racquet A gameof tennis costsF$25perhouron Green fees are F$70/110fornine/18holes. with bunkers creatures. intheshapeof sea maculately groomed18-holegolfcourse [email protected]; DenarauIsland) dive/PADIa two-tank openwatercoursecostsF$190/560. ( BasedattheFirst LandingResort surfacefiji.com) p156 ), noon Sun) adult/child/family F$12/6/30; Nadi Airport GolfClub Nadi Airport Visitors are welcomeaslongthey’re This isaMurugantemple andworship of Denarau Club Golf &Racquet isatribute totheorchid, boasting ( isacheaper optionatF$15 for18 % ( % 672 6111;www.aquabluefiji.com; Mp pp148-97; (Map 675 0944;www.divetropex.com; garden

( % ( % 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,9am- % 672 2701;WailokoRd; 672 2148;NewTown 666 6738;www.sub hasanim-

( % 675 9711; flights (F$170perseatforfourtosixpassengers). (one wayperpersonF$210),20-minuteSabetoRange orCastaway Helicopter transfers andflightstoMalololailai and Turtle Island. Contact thecompanyforrates. and Turtle Island.Contact ways.com) Scenicflightsandtransfers totheMamanucas s 5WasawasaRd;r/fF$40/50; [email protected]; Aquarius Fiji Aquarius New TownBeach BUDGET inandoutofaccess tobuses downtown. andinMartintarhighway which have easy town, there’s ascattering of hotels alongthe tobest accommodationoptions.Closer quiet andpeacefulhave someof the sions of areas atropicalisle,butthese are anyonewithvi- willdisappoint Beaches NewTownandWailoaloa The black-sand Sleeping Airways Turtle Pacific IslandSeaplanes Island Hoppers facilities). resortmanucas (confirminadvancetouse Nadi toMalololailai andMana intheMa- blue-green waters. daytripsinclude Easy gorgeous viewsof islands,coralreefs and On aclearday,mostdomestic offerflights SCENIC FLIGHTS assuming motel isnestled behindafold of withoutthehype, thissmalland un- tariffs shared facilities. two-storey aroundthecornerwith house area. Spacioussinglesanddoublesare ina beach withtidydormsandacentraldining kittens, thishomylodge sitsonapatch of about Fijiandadoptsallguests like stray Run by‘Mama’, whoknowsathingor50 Wasawasa Rd;dmF$25-28,dF$80-90; F$190), Yasawa andLauGroups. planes.com) (CastawayIsland Transfers totheMamanuca .net.au; 11WasawasaRd;dm/s/dF$15/30/40; en suite andcomfortable. balconies overlooking thebeach. Dormsare upstairs havecheerful andsunnythose roomforwetweather.tral TV Doublesare palms beckonsunaddicts,andthere’s acen- onto thebeach. Hammocks strungbetween and bar,poolarea stretching languidly professional withagoodrestaurant setup, Charter services andjoy flights: Charter services New TownBeachMotel Tropic ofCapricorn ) Perfect fortravellers looking forbudget

( ( ( % % % 672 6000; www.aquarius.com.fj; 17672 6000;www.aquarius.com.fj; 672 1888;reservations@turtleair 672 0410;[email protected])

( % VITI LEVU ••Nadi VITI LEVU ( % 672 3089;chopkins@bigpond

( 672 5644;www.fijisea % 672 3339;newtown nis ns 153 ) n A

)

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 F$22/24/26, dF$35-120; 8-/6-/4-beddm lodge.com.fj; QueensHwy,Namaka; Stoney Creek Resort Stoney Creek Other Areas love it. a littleimpersonal, butcouplesandgroups to 35-year-olds, andtheatmosphere canbe It accommodates asizeableclientele of 18- pool andasmorgasbord of otherfacilities. F$10 toF$20),twobars, apalm-fringed suites, two excellentrestaurants (mains hub witharange of dorms, doubles and isaone-stopbackpackerbusy, theNadiBay Sandalwood Lodge Along theHighway simpleandfillingfare. F$10) serves and lovely, andthesmallrestaurant (mains trees. Thefan-cooledroomsare neat,petite 154 resort provides a free airportshuttle. and agoodrange of activitiesonoffer. The style barandrestaurant (mealsF$6toF$10) in cute andprivate carriages views and doubles withsweeping Wild Westwithcosydormsinmock train thisresortthe highlands, hasataste of the main road promises a good night’s sleep. agoodnight’s main roadpromises interiors the andbalconies. Thelocationoff upstairs haveto thepool,andthose larger Ground-floor roomshave patiosleading with perkydécor,kitchenettes andTVs. rooms shell, thislodge hasself-contained ais sF$75-95, d/twF$85-105; St,Martintar; .com.fj; Ragg person F$35,dm/s/dF$55/75/140; UciwaiLanding;campingper 0571; www.surfdivefiji.com; groups. leyball courts,andit’spopularwithtour grounds. There are alsobasketball andvol- allscattered grassy throughout and TV, air-conditioned bathroomswithphone twinsand neat andplaindorms,spartan of acampforgrown-ups,this lodge has fers minimalbungalows andoodles of grass and ocean lingoatthissurfer retreat thatof- thick withthescent of boardwax,sunblock bathroom F$55/75; beto Rd;dmF$20,s/dwithoutbathroomF$30/45,d/trwith Sa- .stoneycreekfiji.net; [email protected]; d F$80-100,stF$120; nadibayhotel.com; WailoaloaRd;dmF$21-25,sF$60-80, Nomads Skylodge Rendezvous BeachResort Rendezvous Nadi Bay Resort Hotel Hotel Nadi BayResort VITI LEVU ••Nadi VITILEVU ) Abudget optioninamidrange is

(

% (Map pp148-97; (Map nais

nais ( % bure 672 2044;sandalwood@connect ) Hidden at the base ofHidden atthebase 672 2200;www.nomadssky

. There’s asaloon- (

% Mp pp148-97; (Map is 672 3599;www.fiji % ) Perennially ) Something ) 672 2206;www The air is Theairis % 651 651 Fantasy Forest Park; dF$150; need acartoreachneed anythingelse. and gymare includedintheprice,butyou’ll urban interiors. Accesstothepristinepool trendy unitswithtimberdecksandedgy- this healthandfitnesscomplexhasfour in aslowlyprogressing residential estate, Raffles Gateway Hotel Gateway Raffles Along theHighway Club Fiji Resort Wailoaloa Beach MIDRANGE are F$40. costs F$150/500.Transfers fromtheairport dive/PADIa two-tank openwater course manuca surfbreaks costF$50perdayand to pitch atent. Boattransfers totheMa- gateway.com; QueensRd;dF$70-130; Mediterranean-style villas,ocean-view avoid the bigresorts, ClubFijihasclassy A lively optionformidrangers lookingto .com; WailoaloaBeachRd;dF$100-165; entertainment. andliveMongolian andFijianthemenights ant (mainsF$12toF$30)hostsMexican, digs are decent valueandtheon-site restaur- and smallertimberthatched Ocean’s Edge pizza orcoconut fishbites. tive fare alongthelinesofThai chicken Café (mainsF$12toF$24) dishesupinven- fruit cocktail.The trendy resort’s Coriander where you cansuponafreshly blended have asmallsplayofpoolsidesunlounges the maincomplex.The grounds compact no lessclassy)roomsare behind tucked alfresco dining area, whilecheaper(but have balconiesoverlooking thepooland Fijian prints. The more expensive versions of naturallightare dressed intimberand rooms withpolishedtiledfloorsandplenty restaurant atone. Stylishandimmaculate digs, helpfulstaff,tidygroundsandfunky have butthe appealing acheekymoniker, near. This may smallandpersonalresort quite Beachside–it’smore Beach- like Beachside Resort THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE f F$125; WailoaloaBeachRd;dF$60-90, sideresortfiji.com; nais

( ( % % 651 1560;www.oceansedge.org;

670 20150;www.clubfiji-resort ( %

( ns % www.lonelyplanet.com ) 670 3488;www.beach Actually it’snot Actually 672 2444;www.raffles ) Tucked away nais nas bure bure, . All ) )

include breakfast. andsmallshop. Rates salon laundry service, a spaciousrestaurant (mainsF$10toF$25), for asmallarmy,andthepropertyincludes The two-bedroom familysuite isgoodvalue Pricier deluxe modelscomewithabalcony. but allhave modconsandgargantuan beds. roomsareourful andpleasant dated atad off Votualevu Rd, Namaka; r/stF$170/215; Rd,Namaka; off Votualevu na rF$70-115; [email protected]; QueensRd,Martintar; slide. F$20 toF$30)andkidswilllove thewater There’s also apoolsiderestaurant (mains rooms have andpatios. lounge settings are coolandcrisp,priciersuperior versionsthe location;smallstandard The roomsare goodvalueregardless of sive centrallawnisopposite theairport. hotelThis well-established withanexpan- www.lonelyplanet.com Tanoa Apartments Near theAirport TOP END apartment hasabalcony. to accommodate asmallnationandeach there’s thestudios roomineven enough caterers. Thedécorcould dowithaliftbut apartments which are great valueforself- studio,one-andtwo-bedroommaintained brick exterior andyou’llfindmeticulously alfresco restaurant (mainsF$20). grounds, which includeasizeablepooland bathrooms. Families populate thegrassy of andsassy which have barfridges, TVs ‘deluxe’ andmodern‘superior’rooms,all creature comforts,theMercure offers large vated andfancied upintoaflashyhaven of f F$160; rF$85-110, QueensRd,Martintar; .capricorn-hotels-fiji.com; window benches andclassydécor. iors modernkitchens, cushioned contain views,andtheinter- highland sweeping each provide plentyof and naturallight sophisticate.contained Amplewindows in and superbapartmentscatering totheself- with coolstonewalls,arched woodendoors This lofty vibes complexexudesmountain is Queens Rd,Nadi;rF$175-230; [email protected]; [email protected]; rF$135; Mercure Hotel Nadi Hotel Mercure Capricorn International Hotel International Capricorn Rosie Serviced Apartments Rosie Serviced Tokatoka Resort Hotel Resort Tokatoka ) ) nais Low-rise but high-class, Tokatoka but high-class, Low-rise Persevere pasttheconfronting

( % ) 672 3685;

The Capricorn’s col- TheCapricorn’s ( %

( % 672 2438/2255; reserva 672 2438/2255;reserva -

nas 672 0222;tokatokares ( www.tanoahotels.com;

% ( % 672 2755;reser- 672 0088;www nas ) Reno- ana )

breakfast fromF$870; aton.com/denarauvillas; rinclbreakfast fromF$640, stincl rate considerably. vance bookingislikely toreduce therack variations provide somegreat dealsandad- price lawns andcolourfulflora. Seasonal of panache. Blocksare bygrassy separated condoshavethese oceanviewsandplenty chic .com/fiji; rinclbreakfast fromF$540; from F$630; 675 0818;[email protected];rinclbreakfast port costsF$24. downtown costsF$12;onefromNadiair- from toDenarauIsland.Ataxi bus station daily (lessfrequently onSunday)fromNadi tropical garden. istucked self intoabeautifullymaintained ders of moderntechnology. Theresort it- casually splendidandcomewithallwon- flavoured of thegroup.Hotel roomsare of thechain, thisresort isthemostFijian- and foot. wait onyouhand dara Spa andthestaff blue, youcanpamper yourself intheMan- kitchens. The‘infinity’poolis unbearably bungalows withopulent interiors andsmall of modernone-,two-andthree-bedroom of the lot,theSheraton Villasare aseries in themaking. resort island,withmore top-endoptions Industrious constructionisexpandingthis ofants, abevy bars andplentyof activities. Inaddition,there are 18restaur-service. gramme forchildren andababy-sitting catered forwithadailyentertainment pro- the bulkof guests,andthelatter are well package holdovers andfamiliesconstitute style andallthefive-star perks.Couples, ive of thethree flashyresorts having distinct- Denarau isawashwithSheraton flair,each Denarau slide. (mains F$15toF$30),healthspaandwater the wealthof facilitiesincludearestaurant and vegetation. Someare self-contained out expansive grounds,thickwithtropical villasaresemidetached peppered through- of concretesea andsteel.Polished and has top-end trimmingswithouttheusual Sheraton DenarauVillas Sheraton Royal Denarau Resort Sheraton RoyalDenarauResort Sheraton Fiji Resort West BusTransport withasplashof theMediterranean, nas nas )

Although it’stheoldest Although (

% VITI LEVU ••Nadi VITI LEVU ( % 675 0777)

( 675 0777;www.sheraton % ) 675 0777;www.sher nas Theclassiest

( has six buses hassixbuses % 675 0000;fax )

Trés 155

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 www h and thecoffee here isburly. ies flaunt themselvesunder aglasscabinet pizzas. Sponge cakes good- andothersweet its fresh, pies and deli-stylesandwiches, narrow cafélures localsand visitors with lustre beach. lagoon-style poolcompensatesforalack- age keeps theambiencetropical,and andas. Anabundanceof palmsandfoli- and bedrooms,mosquito-screened ver- villas withcheerful décor,tiledbathrooms treats itsgueststo age tourists,thisbrochure-perfect resort with Australian,NZandAmericanpack- locals. in thecountry.It’slegendary among the someof thebestandhottest curryserves butTata’sits locationain’tsalubrious, onanyofhouse thetouristbrochures and won’t findthisunadornedlittlecurry Tata’s CAFÉS &QUICKEATS of traditionalFijiandishes. atleastacouple many restaurants serving andWestern cuisine,withdian, Chinese palates wellwithadecentvarietyof In- small,NadicatersAlthough totravellers’ Eating First LandingResort Other Areas Sonaisali IslandResort Sonaisali Island 156 fast from st inclbreakfast F$440-520; VudaPoint;rinclbreakfast F$145-220,.firstlandingfiji.com; road totheresort stand. landingandtaxi drive foracoupleof kilometres bysealed RdatNacobi Rdand theQueens Turn off minute boatshuttlefromNadiairport. activities thanyoucouldpossiblyexhaust. per adult/child), free kids’clubandmore poolside restaurant (mealpackage F$65/35 verandas.elevated On-site isabeautyspa, are inthatched views.Voluminoussuitesrooms withsea (ifalittlepredictable)comfortable hotel occupies anentire islandandoffers (teeny) St, Nadi;mealsF$6-16; Continental Cakes & Pizza Continental Cakes Naisali isa25-minuteNaisali drive andthree- breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, to5pmSat) breakfast, lunch&dinnerMon-Fri, VITI LEVU ••Nadi VITILEVU .sonaisali.com; rinclbreakfast F$420,stinclbreak-

( % F$580; 670 0520;NadiBackRd,Nadi;mealsF$4; nais bure

(Map pp148-97 ; pp148-97; (Map bure h

with high ceilingsand withhigh (Map (Map 8am-6pm) nas andtwo-bedroom pp148-97 ) Thisfancyresort

( % % Thislong, 670 3595; Main 670 3595;Main ; 666 6171;www ) % Bursting 670 6011; You h the Mamanucas. which offersseating, uninterrupted viewsof downpretty It allgoes wellattheoutdoor and otherresort-style foodisfairlytimid. burgers theaccompanyingpastas, though al- worth thetripforexcellentseafood, starters. Bookingsrecommended. There isalsodelicate sushi for orsashimi exquisite dishes. chicken, andseafood beef always entertaining artof teppanyaki on sometimes gentle, sometimesenergetic, but while theirindividualchefs performthe square hotplates, patrons sipAsahi beer chicken. ravioli, andkingprawnsorAfghan salmon global menuoffers imaginative duckling Meals match therefined surroundsandthe for asplurge ontaste andatmosphere. Nadi institution,swankyChefsisperfect theRestaurant Chefs, RESTAURANTS Rd, Nadi;mainsF$30-45; good spot for a mountainous feed. good spotforamountainous butchered byadrummachine, butit’sa tocontendand you’llneed withHinditunes diner. fast-food Theambienceisatad chain themselves underthecounter atthiscorner inone-meal-a-dayportionsdisplay served Nadi; mainsF$16-30; 30; Vuda Point;mainsF$16- 6171; www.firstlandingfiji.com; café version of therestaurant upstairs has mains F$8; Chefs, theEdge Chefs, Saffron theCorner First Landing Seafood Restaurant First LandingSeafood Daikoku Daikoku mains F$12-20; Lazy Cactus THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE pleasant courtyard. on yourlips. Youcandineinsideorinthe salt squidthatleaves asizzlingreminder with garlic,chillies and butter) andachilli a kicking other faves are upforgrabs. Butsotoois and business: burritos,enchiladas,tortillas smells. The foodisMexicananditmean south ofthebordercharmanddelicious little cantinaoozes awarmatmosphere, h lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) lunch &dinner) h

( % camarones enmojodeajo breakfast &lunch) ( 670 3622; Main St,Nadi;mainsF$20-30; 670 3622;Main % h h 672 6890; Queens Rd, Martintar; 672 6890;QueensRd,Martintar; lunch &dinner)

This resort restaurant is h

( lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) % ( ( % Perched aroundlarge % lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) www.lonelyplanet.com 670 3131;SagayamRd, 670 1233; Main St,Nadi; 670 1233;Main 670 3131/3322;Sagayam Deliciouscurries This snappy (shrimp

( % The 666 A plus woodfired gourmettreats. F$8-20; Namaka Nadi; mainsF$12-25; Sun) ton.com) options for a beer orcocktail. options forabeer ResortHotel ( Bay p154 ) are atmospheric expats. draws on.Popularwith and funasthenight and thelive music.Things get loud,beery somewhere dinner drinking phase between kitsch andhostsasolid thick withseafaring www.lonelyplanet.com Planters Lounge Planters Entertainment Martintar) &Bar Bounty Restaurant Drinking Nadi hasalarge produce SELF-CATERING &Bar RJs Restaurant air-conblessed coolsthatVindaloosting. are theThai andIndiancurriesthe andburgers. of salads pizza, pasta, all Best a roomyandrelaxed interior andserves Plaza. ies downtown,includingattheColonial are large several supermarkets andbaker- with lotsof fresh fruitandvegetables. There Mama’s Pizza Mama’s with lemonandginger. there’s orprawns inblackbeansauce beef cumber combinationhotpots.Forthemeek cu- and adventurous soulscantuckintosea delish. There’s aheavy emphasisonseafood Asian-infusedtai’s menuisdeliberate and steaks, char-grills andseafood. steaks, char-grills mainsF$20-30; Martintar; The bars atAquariusFiji( p153 ) andNadi Sentai Seafood Restaurant Seafood Sentai Also recommended: early tobeatthegarrulouscrowd. handful ofbreezy tablesadornsthefrontentrancebutyou’llneedtogetyourbeerbootsin hit theboardsinmainbar,andthere’s asmallrestaurant (mainsF$8toF$10)attached.A beer andüber-friendly barstaff. It’smore thanjustawatering holethough–live bandsoften mixed crowdoftourists,localsandexpats(isthere anyoneelseleft?)whoreturn forthecheap thing ofaninstitution/oldfriend/personalityallitsown.Mostnightsitlures abuzzingand Ed’s Bar THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE Thedécormaybeshambolic butSen-

% h Insidethe Sheraton Royal( p155 ), Thisconvivialbar/restaurant is 672 0922;ColonialPlaza,QueensRd;mains lunch &dinner)Traditionalcrowd-pleasers,

( % ( Downtown

672 4650; Lot 51, Queens Rd, Martintar) 672 4650;Lot51,QueensRd,Martintar) ( % h ( 675 0000;sheratondenarau@shera % h lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,

( 672 2900;QueensRd, % dinner Tue-Sun) Good 670 0221; Main St,Nadi; 670 0221;Main

672 0840; 79 Queens Rd, 672 0840;79QueensRd, ( market market % 670 0928; Main St, 670 0928;Main (Hospital Rd) , The ies are of HollywoodandIndianBollywoodmov- Nadi) Denarau) High-quality goodsathigherprices. Denarau) High-quality ters; agree ona price before getting in. are me- plentifulinNadi, buttheydon’t use andDenarauIsland (see Beach p155 ). Taxis travelbuses RdtoNewTown alongQueens from Nadibybus. Regularlocalandexpress See p215 forinformationongetting toand &Around There Getting Shop Pacific Art quarantine. likely tohave treated been andmay require are getting abargain. Woodenitems are un- the shopsbeforehand toensure youreally thing uniquehere, butcheck thepricesin You’ll have abetter chance of findingsome- duty-free shops. Nadi’s Main St isatribute tosouvenir and Shopping 12, includinga a nights you cancatch fire-walking, andonSaturday Fiji OnWednesdaynight an musicnightly. barfeatures cocktail this sweeping live Nad’s Handicrafts information forgeneral surfconditions. rents boardsandcanbeagoodsourceof boards andequipment.Italsorepairs and trendyThis littlesurfshopsells surfwear, mass-produced. home atreasonable pricesbutit’sallfairly crafts, clothing,jewelleryanditems forthe outletofThis colossal Jack’s touristy sells Nadi) stock and prices toJack’s. stock andprices placetohitthebitters inNadi,Ed’sissome- Two downtowncinemasshowingamix Fiji Surf Fiji Surf Jack’s Handicrafts More souvenirs: Market Nadi Handicraft . AdmissionisaroundF$4. and Galaxy 2Cinema Galaxy meke ( Novelty Cinema Novelty % 670 5960; cnr Main St&HospitalRd,Nadi) 670 5960;cnrMain (F$50/25peradult/child over ( % ( lovo % 675 0677; Sheraton Fiji Resort, 675 0677;SheratonFiji Resort,

670 3588; Main St,Nadi)Similar 670 3588;Main dinner). ( VITI LEVU ••Nadi VITI LEVU %

( % 670 0744; Main St,Nadi) 670 0744;Main

( % 670 0176;5AshramRd, (Koroivolu Ave, Nadi) 670 0155; Main St 670 0155;Main 157

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 dustry. In cutting season, sugartrainsputt dustry. Incuttingseason, relies heavily onthediminishingsugarin- here since1903 andthelocaleconomystill Lautoka andaromaticcurryhouses. saris and thedowntowngridteems withswaying est concentrationsof Indo-Fijianculture, tive toNadi.Italsohasoneof Fiji’sstrong- handicraft market, alterna- andisapleasant gardensandalargebotanical produceand for anextended stay, hasasmall Lautoka itlacksthesubstance ambience. Although bling widestreets andadeliciouslyrelaxed rank withcorridors of thickfoliage, am- Fiji’s second-largest citybeliesitsurban pop 43,274 LAUTOKA 158 Apartment Hotel(8km) Saweni Beach Sugar Mill(500m); To Lautoka 4 1 3 2 LAUTOKA The VITI LEVU ••Lautoka VITILEVU SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Waterfront Hotel...... Sea BreezeHotel...... Lautoka Hotel...... Cathay Hotel...... Produce &HandicraftMarket...... Post Office...... Internet Café...... Blue LagoonCruises...... ANZ ATM...... (see20) ANZ ATM...... (see16) B2 ANZ ATM...... Lautoka SugarMill Lautoka Island Tava Ὀ Ὀ AC Nadovu

Park Nuqa Pl Nuqa 2

Marine Dr

Walu St Walu operating hasbeen Dispensary Rd Dispensary 17 ὈὈ 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 C2 B2 C3 C2 B3 B3 A3 9

B ENTERTAINMENT EATING Village 4CinemaComplex...... Coco’s NightClub...... Vrindavan VegetarianRestaurant..... Seaview Restaurant...... (see7) Nan Ying...... Jolly Good...... Ganga VegetarianRestaurant...... C2 Fins Restaurant...... (see9) Chilli TreeCafé...... Tagimauca St Tagimauca Council Town

Drasa Ave 4

Tui St 1 Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ 7 15 3

13 Tavewa Ave Tavewa Botanical .fj; 2-12NavitiSt;dmF$15,dF$35-65; .com.fj; Waterfront Hotel Waterfront Sleeping Sugar Festival. attheannual city crownsaSugarQueen the along themainstreet andinSeptember bar and restaurant (see bar andrestaurant (see opposite ). site isagym, smallchildren’s playground, conies andgeneric andcheerful décor. On US hotel chain. Spaciousroomshave bal- the ambienceandtrimmingsof amidrange ka’s tophotel hasawaterfront locationand of itskickbuttheneatandcosyroomsare gracious cornerhotel mayhave lostsome Gardens

6 Nede St 10

Lautoka Hotel Lautoka

Narara Pde Narara W Vitogo Pde Vitogo

aterfront Rd Thomson Cres Thomson

600m 0.3miles 0 0

Marine Dve;dF$120-140; Marine Kalima Temple Sri Krishna St

Malolo Hospital St Verona

14 13 12 11 10

Vidolo St 16 15 Naviti St Naviti Churchill D3 B2 D2 C2 C2 D2

Park

12 Tukani St

Rd St Nanuya

TRANSPORT Sunbeam &PacificTransport...... Patterson BrothersShipping...... Bus Station&TaxiStand...... eccme rie...... B3 Beachcomber Cruises......

Vakabale St ( 19 % ( 8 % 18 5

Hospital (100m) La Bekana 666 0388;[email protected]

To Lautoka Mosque 666 4777;waterfront@connect

Yawini St Yawini 14 Yasawa St Yasawa

Drasa Ave 11 www.lonelyplanet.com Mana 20

nas

Valetia St Valetia

Post Shop Downtown Ave Namoli St Ganilau Rd Namoli Village na

D Namoli Ave Namoli 16 To Neisau Na (38km)

) Ravouvou St Ravouvou To Ba

Waya St Lauto- cula St cula (200m) Marina

) 20 19 18 17 Vomo St Vomo This Temple Sikh

D2 C2 C2 Bouwalu St Bouwalu Sts; mainsF$10-20; h Ave; dm/dfromF$14/40; people watching. but the180-degree windowsmake forgreat The interior ismore nannathannouveau cias, quiches, wraps,cakes andgreat coffee. focac- fussy palates withfabulousmuffins, dishes alsogracethemenu. name afew. Fragrantpoultry andnoodle friedprawns to lobster orsalt-and-pepper dishesinFiji–coconut crab, bakedseafood tive restaurant sizzles upsomeof thefinest and lacklustre furniture but the convivial more. Thecool interior has lowlighting triple-decker and roasts clubsandwiches, Fijiandishes, fresh seafood, menu, serving hasanextensive Hotel, theSeaview Lautoka great viewsof thestreet below. balconyupstairs which providessweeping andthere’s a private bathroomsandTVs, on yourface. Pricierversions have air-con, toputasmilestill distinguished enough www.lonelyplanet.com Chilli Tree Café Chilli Tree Eating Hotel Cathay to F$10). breakfast (F$4 and arestaurant thatserves lounge, abar the nicest.There’s alsoaTV expensive sea-view roomswithair-con are Themorespotless andtranquilsanctuary. only bythebedsideBible)which provide has piouslyaustere rooms (embellished down analleynearthecitycentre, thishotel ana Lane;sF$35-50,dF$40-55; Bekana Garden IslandResort Garden Bekana the area. acartoenjoy butyou’llneed self-caterers splurge. It’sagreat optionforfamiliesand (F$380)ifyou’rebeach house lookingto oodles of room.There’s alsooneopulent with simpleinteriors, modernkitchens and side resort hasbungalow-styleapartments Around 8kmsouthof town,thisbeach- nais % h www.fiji4less.com; dmF$17,stF$80-100; cheap doss. Nan Ying Seaview Restaurant Seaview Sea Breeze Hotel Breeze Sea Saweni Beach Apartment Hotel Saweni BeachApartment More options: lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,Sun) 664 0180; www.bekanaislandfiji.com.fj; dF$125-280; 664 0180;www.bekanaislandfiji.com.fj; breakfast &lunch)

( ( % % ) Sassy, family-friendly islandresort. ) Sassy,family-friendly

( % h 666 0566;www.fiji4less.com; Tavewa 665 2668;NedeSt;mainsF$12-20; This corner café satiates Thiscornercafésatiates 665 1824;3Tukani St;mealsF$6-12;

( lunch &dinner) % as

( % 666 0717;fax6080;Be k- 666 0388;cnrNaviti&Tui nas ) Wearybutgoodfora Mp pp148-97 ; (Map Thisdiminu- Beneath the Beneath

( % nas ) Tucked 666 1777; )

6.30pm Thu & Fri, to5pmSat) 6.30pm Thu&Fri, 88 NavitiSt;mealsF$4-7.50; alfresco setting. 5.50; is laidoutlike adiner. Thespaciousinteriorcious Indiansweets. ries andthalis,aswellcolourfuldeli- goodvegetarian cur-Indian eatery serves F$3.50. are F$4,except onTuesday,whenthey’re maincinema. Ticketsmony atLautoka’s wood andBollywoodare screened inhar- where youcanpick uptimetables. inYasawaoffices St,opposite themarket, (F$13, sixhours). Bothcompanieshave from Nadi(F$2.80, 1½hours) andSuva toand port alsohave frequent busservices along theKingsRd. utes, sixdaily).There are alsoregular buses (F$1,45min- as toandfromSaweniBeach and lessfrequently aswell intheevening, 15minutesNadi every duringtheday(F$2) and Lautoka shuttlebetween Local buses &Around There Getting side. seedier clubs, which generally veer towardsthe hasa limited numberofLautoka pubsand &Entertainment Drinking Restaurant Vegetarian Ganga predinner drink. pensate. spotfora It’salsoapleasant vibes andexcellentfoodmore thancom- nightly (5pmto9pm). nightly aswellhappyhoursSaturday nights, Coco’s putsonlive musicmostFridayand Probably themostwelcomingclubintown, curries. Sts; mealsF$2-5; F$12-25; Jolly Good intown. best seats withwaterfronttables viewsare thevery flashy andcool.Onbreezy daystheoutside caters totouristtastes andtheinterior is curries andgoodFijiandishes. Themenu BLTs, salads, restaurantpolitan serves Thai terfront Hotel (see opposite ), thiscosmo- Fins Restaurant Fins Restaurant Sunbeam TransportandPacific Trans- Coco’s NightClub Restaurant Vegetarian Vrindavan Village 4cinemacomplex Village Other diningoptions: h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) Tasty inan takeaway (cnr Naviti & Vakabale Sts;mealsF$3.50- (cnrNaviti&Vakabale breakfast, lunch&dinner) h breakfast & lunch) Good vegetarian breakfast &lunch)Good vegetarian

VITI LEVU •• Lautoka ••Lautoka VITI LEVU (

% ( % h 666 4777; Marine Dve;mains 666 4777;Marine This clean and bright Thiscleanandbright 666 8989;151VitogoPde) 7.30am-6pm Mon-Wed,to

(cnrNaviti&Yasawa (Namoli Ave) AttheWa-

( % Holly- 666 2990; 159

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Saweni to Lautoka orNadiairport. Saweni toLautoka willcostapproximatelyA taxi F$8/25from Taxis are plentifulandshort ridesare cheap. daily). daily) and Sigatoka(F$3, one hour,1.30pm to andfromNadi (F$2,onehour,three each travel way(45minutes). Localbuses port transfers/taxis fromNadiare F$15/50 andcontinueforanother 1.5km.Air-right Head Rd,turn 11kmdownOldQueens THERE &AWAYGETTING Resort &Dive Surf Seashell SLEEPING &EATING from Nadi. is18km Rd.Theturn-off Queens sealed is towards along theoldun- MomiBay The first interesting detoursouthof Nadi Momi Bay the SouthPacific Oceanontheother. blueofdrops off dramaticallyintothedeep hills ononesideandafringingreef that bour theroadisflanked bywaves of green SigatokaandPacific Har-Coast. Between the stretch of coastlineknownastheCoral commodation options,particularlyalong gion ispeppered withsmalltownsandac- Thisre- southerncoast. up toVitiLevu’s canefieldsandsidlesRd windsthrough andscenicQueens South of Nadithesealed THE CORALCOAST & SOUTHERN VITILEVU 160 F$170/550) andsurfing. dive/PADI(two-tank openwater course friendly andtheactivitiesinclude diving butit’sfamily isn’tspectacular, beach itself number 1willget youoceanviews.The classier self-contained dormsandlodgecomfortable rooms,and has grassygroundswithunadornedbut breathtaking. andMamanucarier Reef islandsare quite views totheNavula Passage, Malolo Bar- of thesite’s sense historyandthe tangible kers andfinecollectionof photosprovide a Rdturn-off. Therestoredthe Queens bun- WWII battery onahilltopabout 6kmfrom F$40/65 campingF$10,dminclmealsF$60,s/d shellresort.com; child/family F$3/1/6; Lautoka iseasytoget aroundonfoot. Lautoka En route you’llpassthe VITI LEVU ••SouthernVitiLevu &theCoralCoast VITILEVU nais h ) 9am-5pm) This isolated resort

bure ( % Momi Guns , anevocative 670 6100;www.sea . Lodge room

(adult/ nonguests. andisopento great seafood F$25) serves Therestaurantcivilisation. (mainsF$10to courtyards should allurges satiate toescape beds, coolwoodeninteriors andsecluded vacy andclassinstead. Plumpchairs and and skipsthemodcons,opting forpri- sort injectsasoft splashof Spain intoFiji cost F$70. Coach andboattransfers toandfromNadi overnightson), butstaying isbetter value. Nadi andCoralCoasthotels (F$90perper- F$120/450).Therecourse are daytripsfrom dive/PADIand diving(two-tank openwater activities includewindsurfing,snorkelling mealsareBuffet includedintherate and programme. entertainment tacky) slightly (and beachfrontwhite-sand andanintense which share bathrooms.There’s agorgeous thatched private wrapping. Accommodationisinbasic packaged inaculturaldizzy funloosely of theft. your valuables asthere have reports been photogenic spottozoneout,butwatch For nonswimmers isanutterly Natadola currents andundertowcanbedangerous. for bodysurfing.Take care asthe though, and therelevel isfrequently churn enough vides goodswimmingregardless of thetide beaches flanked pro- bycoral,Natadola bestbeach. Unlike surroundingViti Levu’s eral kilometres of pristinesurf, isNatadola With awidestretch of soft andsev- sand Natadola Beach crusoeislandfiji.com; dm/s/dfromF$70/90/170; Crusoe IslandResort Beach. Likuri, isjustoff Natadola This smallcoralisland,alsoknownas Robinson CrusoeIsland .com; dinclbreakfast F$250; Natadola BeachResort SLEEPING &EATING and Sara are amarried couplewho offer In thenearby village of Mia Sanasana, the carpark. youand between and putsomedistance offer, issue afirm butpolite ‘nothankyou’ you don’twanttotake themupontheir along thebeach, buttheycanbepushy.If Mia andSara Mia Local villagers offer Budget travellers swarmtothe

( % bure

651 0926;inclmeals F$35-40) (

% ( orlarge dorms,allof % s www.lonelyplanet.com 651 0100;www.robinson 651 1251;www.natadola ) Thisintimate re- horse riding Robinson s

(F$10) ) for

www.lonelyplanet.com entrance to theFijianResort. Itoffers scenic resides. Yanuca where FijianResort theShangri-La’s Sigatoka. There isalsoasmallislandnamed proximitygood attractionsandinclose to of avillage which ishometoacoupleof andYanucathe coastatCuvuBay –ablink hillsanddownto winds southeastthrough Past Rd Queens theturn-off toNatadola, Yanuca &Around then catch thetrainorbusback. (about3½hours) and Beach and Natadola ers Yanuca couldfollowthetrackbetween below ) runs tours tothebeach. Keen walk- the beach issignposted. 36km fromNadi,justpastthepolicepost; Rd, off Queens heads southtoNatadola Monday toFriday).TheMaro Rdturn-off Sigatoka (F$2.50,onehour,fourdaily Paradise headtoandfrom Transportbuses THERE&AWAYGETTING ber 2005. new five-star resort inSeptem- atNatadola group commencedconstructionof alavish tothem. to speak Mia orSara,thencallbackin10minutes village 10amand1pm.Ask between for book, callthemontheonlyphonein accommodation.To homestay hospitable way The station forthe The station (see The CoralCoastScenicRailway The For indigenousFijians theheadis A HAIRY SITUATION who regarded asnotsuitableforthe‘neatandindustrious Christianconvert’. thepractice measured onehairdoat5mincircumference, thecustomwasdeliberately suppressed byChristians appease awrathfulancestralspirit. one’s headwasaprofoundsacrificeformanandoften doneasasymbolofmourningorto forlice),ornamentalcombs,scarletfeathers,(practical flowersandgrated sandalwood.Shaving spoilt. The headwasspeciallydressed forfestive hairscratchers occasionswithaccessorieslike could notoutdothechief’s. tufts dyedrustybrownoryellow.Awife’s haircouldnever outdoher husband’s anda withrandomWomen, ontheotherhand,wore farmore hairdos–close-cropped conservative limejuice anddyedgrey, blue,orange,yellowandwhite, sometimesstripedormulticoloured. tall) tomore original shaggyorgeometricshapes. Styleswere stiffened intoplacewithburnt ant, often massive hairdos,ranging fromtherelatively conventional giant puffball(upto30cm days withthehairdresser. As flamboy- asymbolofmasculinityandsocialstanding,mensported

( % Early Europeans were astonishedbythevarietyofelaborate styles. Soonafter amissionary theircoiffure woodenpillowstokeep frombeingPeople sleptonuncomfortable-looking 652 8731;Queens Rd) InterContinental Coral CoastScenicRail-

is at the causeway isatthe causeway (www.natadolafiji.com) tabu VITI LEVU ••SouthernVitiLevu &theCoralCoast VITI LEVU . Inreverence tothis Fijianssanctity, oncespententire breakfast fromF$490; d &twF$75,rF$90-135) 0200; admission1hr/dayF$25/100;dminclmealsF$65, Coral Sun Fijicoach isF$15. toNadiairport isaboutF$70and the taxi riers travel Rd(see along Queens p215 ). A andcar-Regular express minibuses buses, drive from Nadiand11kmwestof Sigatoka. cycling. snorkelling, water-skiing, fishingoreven bout of golf,tennis, jetskiing,parasailing, the three palm-skirted poolsorenjoy a child-care centre. Youcanlazebyoneof with parents forfree andthere’s agreat and indulgence. Twochildren canshare pureis perfect forfamiliesseeking R&R entire island of Yanuca (43hectares) and (F$80 includingBBQlunch). hours, leaving at10amandreturning at4pm The14kmtriptakes about1¼ Beach. tadola lages, forests toNa- andsugarplantations, sugartrain,pastvil- rides onanolddiesel fish curries. to F$30),which cooksupgreat steaks and (mainsF$15 Restaurant andGecko’s Bar rates include tours. Alsoon-site isBernie’s unit.All room orspaciousself-contained shared acrisphotel bathroomsorchoose overnight inneatdormsanddoubles with nies, handicraftsandcooking.Youcanstay featuring culturaldancing,kava ceremo- Resort The FijianResortisabout a45-minute Ka Levu South Pacific Cultural Centre Centre SouthPacific Cultural Levu Ka The sprawlingfive-star

( % 652 0155; www.shangri-la.com; dincl652 0155;www.shangri-la.com; nas isafaux-Fijianvillage Shangri-La’s Fiji Shangri-La’s an ) occupiesthe

( %

161

652

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 ni bokola a mation centre, anumber of grave sites, of incomeforvillagers, andhasaninfor- views are magnificent. was anobviousstrategic locationandthe at theedge of abendintheSigatokaRiver, limestoneridge, The steep about90mhigh precolonial Tongaand Fiji. linksbetween provides intothestrong anexcellentinsight most accessiblefortof itskindinFijiand Sat) family F$12/3/30; one hourforthewalkingtour. 4.5km westof Sigatoka,and allowabout the SigatokaSandDunesVisitorCentre, before 11amorafter 3pm. Enter through great place forawalk.Onhotdayvisit the site. park in1989anattempt tohelppreserve part of thearea wasdeclared anational Rd,andthestate-ownedonto theQueens in the1960stohaltdunes’expedition years old.Amahoganyforest wasplanted the Pacific, aswellpottery over 2600 covered oneof thelargest burialsites in end. Archaeological excavations have un- risingtoabout60matthewesternhigh, up to1kmwideandonaverage about20m around5kmlong,the making,theystand millionyears in Several natural highlights. Maile thisdefensive Latumai, Built inthe18thcenturybyTonganchief Tavuni HillFort impressivegrey these sand, Windswept andpeppered of withsheets SandDunesSigatoka SIGHTS the very fromAtoB. shortdistance you shouldn’thave travelling anydifficulty ate numberof populate taxis thestreets so shops andalarge hilltopmosque. Aninordin- There’s aproducemarket, afew souvenir townfortheCoralCoastregion. as aservice ambleandpitstopbutlargelypleasant acts of thelarge SigatokaRiver. Itmakes fora green andfertile surroundsnearthemouth Sigatoka isaneatgridof a town tucked into pop 8000 Around & Sigatoka 162 family F$8/3/20; rara The site has been restoredThe site hasbeen as ameans The dunesare anda quite spectacular was used intimesof wasused tribalwar. It’sthe VITI LEVU ••SouthernVitiLevu &theCoralCoast VITILEVU (ceremonial grounds) anda (head-chopping stone).Regular h h 8am-6pm) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1.30pm 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, are oneof Fiji’s dunes fort

(adult/child/ (adult/child/ vatu brekkie. h Le Café shellfish. Takeaway isalso available. dishesbutyou’dbenutstobypassthe nese extensive menuincludescurriesandChi- surrounds atthispopularFijianeatery. The inkitschy tropicana into fabulousseafood interior. great inacavernous seafood dancehall-like to F$30)haslovely river viewsandserves and fridge. Therestaurant (mainsF$16 cept thedormsincludeaprivate bathroom Allex- roomsattached. white andbright Rd; mainsF$8-20; at theMorrisHedstrom supermarket. nearby Korotogo. canstockup Self-caterers ing tothesuperioraccommodationin Unless you’re stuck,you’re better head- off SLEEPING &EATING at themouthof theSigatokaRiver. Surfingispossibleatthepointbreaksand. large, submerged rockplatformcovered in Sigatoka hasFiji’sonlybeach break, over a Surfing ACTIVITIES where are taxis aboutF$5oneway. about4kmnorth,fromday onweekdays), passTavunilocal buses a Hill(60c,seven between Korotogo and between whereKorolevu, scatter of accommodation. where travellers will findasurrounding in earnestatthe small village of Korotogo, The CoralCoastbeginsitsdazzling thread Korotogo &Korolevu buses. hours). Addaboutanhourfornonexpress Nadi (F$4,1¼hours) andSuva (F$8, 2¾ express adaytoandfrom run several buses Pacific TransportandSunbeam THERE&AROUND GETTING Club Sigatoka ai QueensRd;dmF$20,rF$45-65; [email protected]; pub nosh. holewithdecent bestdrinking Sigatoka’s Restaurant, h Vilisite’s Seafood Restaurant Restaurant Seafood Vilisite’s Also recommended: River View Restaurant Restaurant View River The most scenicstretch of the coastsits breakfast &lunch; lunch & dinner) Downstairs from the River View lunch &dinner)DownstairsfromtheRiver ( ) This elevated restaurant Thiselevated hasclean, % 652 0668/877; 28 Queens Rd; meals F$10-15; 652 0668/877;28QueensRd;mealsF$10-15; ( % h 650 0026;QueensRd;mainsF$8-20; i breakfast, lunch&dinner) ) Sigatoka’s nicestspotfor ) Sigatoka’s www.lonelyplanet.com ( %

( 650 1530/1520;jrms % 650 1030; Queens 650 1030;Queens Tuck F$100/120) inparadisefiji.com; toursperpersonfromCoralCoast/Nadi F$25-30, dF$80; beachouse.com; QueensRd;campingperperson F$16,dm 4.30pm) 0505; www.fijiwild.com;adult/childF$15/7.50; strong channel currents. is OKforswimming,butbecareful of the tide. Sovihigh 2.5kmeastof Bay, Korotogo, forswimmingandsnorkellingsuitable at tidal and,exceptforsomelagoons,isonly opportunities. Inmostareas thebeach is the hillyterrain offers panoramicphoto coves aroundthevillage of and Korolevu Resorts tosuitallbudgets occupyprivate bays, beaches, coralreefs andmountains. aroundclearbluethe roadwrapsitself www.lonelyplanet.com (F$15 per hour)andawaterfall trek (F$5). dinner.set riding Activities includehorse rollsandsmoothies for lunch and a serves hereduplex bungalows. TheCoconutCafé atmospheric) and doublesare incolourful storey (triplesare timberhouses roomyand heady socialatmosphere. Dormsare intwo- leafy green beach grounds,apleasant anda Beachhouse Budget SLEEPING with transfers fromCoralCoastresorts. offers great raftingtripsuptheNavua River inParadise Adventures TOURS vation bodies,this international parksandconser-and several Supported bytheNationalTrustforFiji Kula EcoPark SIGHTS Coast andNadihotels. ceremony, lunch and transportfromCoral Tours includea villagerolevu. visit,kava (see p178 ) andtours towaterfalls nearKo- and thecrested andbandediguana. duck (Fiji’sonlyremaining duckspecies) with successstoriesforthepacificblack also runsinvaluablebreeding programmes, grine falcons,fruitbatsandmore. Thepark rots, collared parrots(theKulabird),pere- 11am, 1pmand3.30pmdaily),muskpar- turtles(handfederie of at hawksbillsea traverse streams, Fijianfloraandamenag- fea thered andscaled.Woodenwalkways Rivers Fiji Rivers isamustforfansof thefurred, offers daytripstotheNaihehecave

( ( % n % 345 0147,9992349; ) 0800 6530530,0500;www.fiji This expansive retreat has

( wildlife sanctuary % 652 0833;www.adventures www .riversfiji.com) h

( % VITI LEVU ••SouthernVitiLevu &theCoralCoast VITI LEVU 10am- 650

traditional village. attend themselves ina amass and immerse have theopportunitytovisitschool, commodation andgenerous meals.Guests travellers intotheirhomeforsimpleac- life. welcome SimonandJudithBatibasaga foranauthentictaste ofstay Fijianvillage Queens Rd;rF$110-155; .tambuasandsfiji.com; QueensRd;dF$155-170; the road. bure a lovely poolandBBQarea, andgenerous and modernmotel roomswhich openonto the water. There are spotlessdorms,bright vegetatedsteep, embankmentoverlooking small andpersonal resort tumblesdowna F$40/45, stF$80-120; less.com; QueensRd;dm F$17.50,s/twwithoutbathroom connect.com.fj; QueensRd;stfromF$90; connect.com.fj; ellers lookingto indulge. This friendlyresort willsuitintrepid trav- BeachBungalows Tubakula Midrange and doublesare simpleandneat. aresetting undeniablyFiji.Dorms,singles palm trees, swimmingpoolandwaterfront resort atouch of butthe themountains, ern kitchens andverandas give thislovely chalets withstrappingtimberframes,mod- .com; QueensRd;dmF$15-20,dF$70-80; favourite within-the-knowSuvanites. satellite TV. anda It’sapeaceful setting liferation of supply satellite dishesbutthese ting isovershadowed somewhatbyapro- cottages. Thetropicalset- self-contained side, SandyPointhasfive quaintandcomfy off theroadinaforested patch of thesea- a restaurant ( p164 ) andsmall lounge bar. include balconiesandair-con. There’s also lofty deluxe roomsdon’thave kitchens but uptofour. andsleep self-contained, The Budget roomsare fan-cooled,two-bed and spotless interiors andplentyof naturallight. hotel offers roomswithtiledfloors, spiffy meals F$70/35) peradult/childincl Namatakula; /namatakula/index.htm; value. Manicured lawns are littered with dressed uplike chic holiday flatsandbetter side oroceanview; thelatter are pricier but Vakaviti Vakaviti Namatakula Village Homestay Village Namatakula Sandy PointBeachCottages Bedarra Inn Tambua SandsBeachResort tucked to inamidthejungle,closer ( % Readers recommend thishome- 0800 6500526,0526;www.vakaviti ( % ns as 650 0476;www.bedarrafiji.com; ) Excellent A-frame Excellent

) ( Thisatmospheric %

( Bure %

( 650 0097;www.fiji4 %

(www.fijibure.com 650 0125;cbcom@ s are beach- 650 0399;www s ) Tucked ) This s 163

)

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 encompasses 28fan-cooled encompasses beach behindaplummetof secluded hills and sublime location,thissmallresort sitsona Nadi orSuvaare F$75oneway. divetwo-tank costsF$210andtransfers from Fijian interiors andafabulousrestaur ant. A Namaquaqua Rd;dinclbreakfast F$240-280; great oceanviews. cool interior, with oratpoolsidetables it allwithgoodwineorabitter insidethe fectly cooked fresh Youcandown seafood. chicken andstir-fry dishesalongsideper- inventive steak, atthishotel taurant serves butthe atmosphericres-humble enough Queens Rd;rF$320-340,stF$570; by friendlystaff. curriesare dishedup octopus andseafood tiful quantitiesof kingprawns,lobster, the area outside of theflashyresorts. Plen- views, Vilisite’s isthenicestrestaurant in tropical garbinfrontof ocean sweeping arrafiji.com; mainsF$15-30; Restaurant Vilisite’s EATING Wellesley Resort Crusoe’s Retreat Top End (mains F$15toF$30). sun lounges andthere’s agoodrestaurant 164 F$10-20; Outrigger ontheLagoon Outrigger and international-themed nights. buffet hasmealsfromF$35 Restaurant Wasawasa distinguish itfromtherest. Theresort’s accessandexcellentservice club, disabled The healthspa,nine-holegolfcourse,kids’ stylish andpacked withfive-star amenities. large-scale resorts go. Roomsare suitably Navitithe colossal isabout aspretty as on thegreenery ontheconcrete, andlight F$20-45; ities in a five-star, four-storey shell. ities inafive-star, Stylish roomsand ger.com/fiji; QueensRd;rfromF$590; open-air eatery with woodenbench tables inthis food and Indiancurries are served stunning location. s Rd;dinclmealsfromF$280; Friday .com.fj; Man Naviti Resort Ice BarRestaurant Bedarra Inn Restaurant Bedarra InnRestaurant More top-end options: ) Romantic boutique resort with15suitesanda ) Romanticboutiqueresort VITI LEVU ••SouthernVitiLevu &theCoralCoast VITILEVU h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) bure,

( ( ( % % % superbviewsandexcellentfacil-

653 0444;www. 650 0185;www.crusoesretreat.com; (

650 0807;www.wellesleyresort ( % % h ( 653 0054;QueensRd;mains % 650 1513;QueensRd;mains

lunch &dinner) ( % 650 0044;www.outrig bure nas nais 650 0476;www.bed Delicioussea- navitiresort Drippingin with polished withpolished s It seems Itseems ) na Heavy Heavy ) .com.fj; In a ) lunch &dinner) F$20/40) hour orso. venir spottokillan shopsandapleasant place whom enjoyitthoroughly. squarely andfamilies,allof attourbuses ThursdayF$45/25) every at11am.It’sgeared are firewalking and costumes carryoutmockbattles,andthere package. Fijian actors dressed intraditional ous displayof Fijianculture inatheme-show nearby Beqa ( nearby Beqa here forfabulousgolf,world-classdivingin local residents love it.Mostvisitors head inFiji.It’sanoveltysuburban setting but flawless lawnsandordered river are themost green Sahara. streets, Thewidecul-de-sac vegetationCoral Coast’sdense like aflat, thatemergeshousing development fromthe tidy point, Pacific Harbour isanupmarket Preprepared, plannedandpedicured toa Pacific Harbour outsideresorts.will dropguestsoff of Rdand plytheQueens Sigatoka. Buses village is31kmeast Sigatoka, andKorolevu The Korotogoarea isabout8kmeastof THERE&AWAYGETTING ofEast Korolevu, SHOPPING sophisticated, thefoodisexcellent. market isutterly un- andwhilethesetting It’sattachedtoasmallsuper-and seating. The Golf ACTIVITIES from F$35/18; ( The lovely Lagoon. viewof Beqa Take walk up tothehilltopfora asunset SIGHTS 0364; 5pm to7pm. pizzas.Happytasty hourtakes placefrom local crafts,clothesandjewellery. for swimming. the north.Thebeach atDeubaisreasonable to portunity tovisittheNamosiHighlands % Attached totheArtsVillage,Attached the Le Cafe 345 0065; www.artsfactory.com; toursperadult/child 345 0065;www.artsfactory.com; Greens South Pacific Greens isacongregation of eateries andsou- h isabeautiful golfcourse littered 7.30am-6pm Mon-Sat,8.30am-5pmSun)

( % h Serves European-style foodand Serves 652 0877;mainsF$10-15; 9am-4pm Mon-Sat) ben -ga) Lagoon andtheop- -ga) Lagoon Baravi Handicrafts meke

www.lonelyplanet.com ( % shows(adult/child 345 0022;9/18 holes isanincongru- h Arts Village Arts

breakfast, Market- ( % sells sells 652

www.wildernessfiji.com.fj) .com; River Dr;dm/d/fF$20/55/65; .com; River day toursperpersonfromF$190) tours.com) also have TVs. floral interiors andspotlesskitchens. Some flatswith tidy, of excellentself-contained compact resort hasasingle-storey block next toabreezy bankof thecanal, this trips andkayaking. area, which include waterfall visits,4WD (from F$135perperson) totheNavua River Trek just offshore from Pacific Harbour. isa Lagoon Beqa world-renowned dive site Diving rental isF$15/20pernine/18holes. with challenging bunkers andcanals.Club www.lonelyplanet.com restaurants and bars. sunbakingsettings,open terraces, grassed box booths, couches, oriental-style vast The resort islittered itself withsueded decked alcoves andcushioned sunlounges. Fijian-Asiansassy fusionroomswithprivate Pearl South Pacific SLEEPING Fiji Rivers TOURS nect.com.fj; Lot12BeloCircle;rF$90, fF$120; nect.com.fj; the country’sfinesthotels, thePearl has se p170). (see Pacific Harbour aswellfromSuvahotels Navua River, pickinguppassengers from two-tank dive.two-tank small divingoutfitandcharges F$95fora get rave reviews from readers. feeding dives (F$200fortwodives) which courses forF$170/700,aswellshark- andofferstation dives/open two-tank water South Pacific ( below ) hasanexcellentrepu- and advancedrapids. (F$260 perperson) takes inscenicgorges lands ( p178 ). TheUpperNavua River tour ing andraftingtripstotheNamosiHigh- Harbour, Rivers Fijioffers excellentkayak- s pacific.com; QueensRd;dF$300-360,stF$640; Club Coral Coast Pacific Safari Club Pacific Safari Discover Fiji Tours Discover Pacific SafariClub( below ) alsohasa Wilderness Ethnic Adventure Fiji Wilderness EthnicAdventure ) Revamped andrenovated Revamped intooneof

( % This outfit has several daytours Thisoutfithasseveral 325 0324;www.aquatrek.com)

( % 345 0147, 999 2349; www.riversfiji.com; 345 0147,9992349;www.riversfiji.com;

( ( % %

( ( % % 345 0022;www.thepearlsouth 345 0421;clubcoralcoast@con Offers tours tothe 345 0498;www.pacificsafari 345 0180;www.discoverfiji Based atPacific Based ns atthePearl

( % ) nas a nai Planted 331 5730; VITI LEVU ••SouthernVitiLevu &theCoralCoast VITI LEVU Aqua- )

coffee, goodies. breakfasts andbaked provide of amplevistas green lawns. chairs andthefloor-to-ceiling windows isathigh-backed Seating tornadoes. beef meals F$4-10; list atthePearl SouthPacific ( left ). mains F$25-35; Place; lunchmainsF$8-15,dinnerF$20-30; Dirt-cheap portable-style rooms andtwowearyunits. portable-style Dirt-cheap Queens Rd;s/dwithoutbathroomF$20/35,rF$55-65) place; mainsF$10-30; straight. tomakethick enough yourstrawstand ries, chicken andsteaks, plusfruitcrushes alongsidecur- seafood outstanding serves isPacifictaurant Harbour’s darkhorse. It dressed uplike aretro thisres- beach house, inn façadeof theDeubaInn( above ) and bus ride fromSuva(F$3.20) andaround Pacific Harbour is aboutanhour’s express THERE &AWAYGETTING Supermarket canstockupatthe Self-caterers Restaurant Mantarae h Yanuyanu Restaurant Kai EATING Lagoon Resort Deuba Inn are cosy andneat. ettes andpatios. Roomswithshared facilities with wicker furniture, sunnydécor,kitchen- petite resort of hasaseries rooms split-level Occupying itsownbendintheriver, this mains, such aschar-grilled and curriesforlunch andfancydinner Resort ( above heartysandwiches ) serves Pastry Bure whole lotta seafood. whole lotta burgers, tortillas,curriesanda sandwiches, waiting game. Theeclecticmenuincludes a wallof the booksalleviates secondhand interior of thisatmosphericrestaurant and adornthecool andseating ened woodtables & dinner) service. colonial-style estatewithdignifiedrooms,restaurant and Fairway Place;dF$160-260,stF$300; Oasis Restaurant Lagoon Resort Restaurant Lagoon Resort Also recommended: More recommendations: breakfast &dinner) Theregal restaurant attheLagoon ( % ( h %

h (Arts VillageMarketplace) (Arts ( 345 0544; [email protected]; 345 0544;[email protected]; % breakfast &lunch; 345 0126; Arts Village Marketplace; VillageMarketplace; 345 0126;Arts dinner) Sophisticatedcuisineandwine 345 0100; www.lagoonresort.com; 345 0100;www.lagoonresort.com;

Hidingbehind thebudget h ( % ( % lunch &dinner; 345 0617; Arts VillageMarket- 345 0617;Arts

(Queens Rd;mainsF$14-30; 345 0022;QueensRd;

( % i nas mahimahi 345 0100;Fairway ) Delectable ) Delectable . i Pic NPac ) h Dark- ) Grand,

lunch 165 or

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 meals. Childrates are heavily discounted. clude transfers fromNadianddelectable snorkelling, in- divingandhiking.Rates to lendsitself rounding landscapeandsea a lovely palm-fringed beach, andthesur- as couplesinromanticdoubles.There’s purpose-built two-bedroom but thisopulentresort caters tofamiliesin F$65/95/160) campingF$50,dm/s/d www.lawakibeachhouse.com; person oneway. ary. Transfers fromNavua costF$130per herepay 15%less.Thehospitality islegend- clude three mealsandchildren under12 good snorkelling justoffshore. in- Rates lounge and There’s alsoacommunalTV en suites andverandas, orasix-bed dorm. Accommodation isintwodouble com; dm/dinclmeals F$150/300) of of breaks of Frigate’s Passage. lovely andit’s a short boathaulto thesurf couple of surfcamps.Thebeaches here are green hills,interrupted byavillage anda Compact andbeautiful Yanuca isamassof Yanuca dive sites. firewalking, offshore andforitsfantastic its onshore villages traditional thatpractise Volcanic andrugged, isknownfor Beqa area 36sqkm Beqa bar ahandfulof inconspicuous resorts. andYanucaare Beqa Islands;untouched Kavu Kavu Anchored Reef. amidthelagoon breaks atFrigate’s Passage , alsoknownas test theirmettleonthepowerfulleft-hand Rocks. Divers are joinedbyavid surfers who sites, includingSideStreets andCaesar’s Lagoon long barrier reef theexquisite encloses Offshore fromPacific Harbour, a64km- OFFSHORE ISLANDS costs F$35;call three hours toSuva fromNadi(F$8).Ataxi 166 from F$1710/2050/2340; 4/5/7nightsperperson 4042; www.beqalagoonresort.com; The superb hospitality, laid-backThe superb hospitality, vibesand wakes upin ahammock monthlater. The façadeof the Many atraveller hitsthechic surfcamp The cosy Batiluva VITI LEVU •• Offshore Islands ••Offshore VITILEVU , world-famous foritsdizzyingdive sitsinfrontof anisolated beach.

( % Lawaki BeachHouse Lawaki 345 1019,9920019;www.batliuva. Ratan’s TaxiRatan’s Beqa LagoonResort as ) for a week and foraweek

looksexclusive ( % bure, 346 0329).

( % bure aswell 992 1621;

( % with Beqa 330 F$50/80 perperson. fers toPacific Harbour/Frigate’s Passage are andreturnplentiful andtasty boattrans- (breakfast/lunch/dinner F$10/15/15)are two cabinswithprivate bathrooms.Meals solid timberbunksandmosquitonets,plus peace andquiet.There isonedormwith offers surfers serious andurbanescapees income fortheneighbouring village) and byfriendlylocals(it’sasourceofstaffed 997 8958; fill atwo-orthree-day itinerary. diningandambience heresights, can easily credibly andthe shops, friendlythough, to beaware of (see p147 ). Suvansare in- no title,andcrimepoverty are factors onlandthathas crowded intosettlements and welcomerelief. 300mm each year),butthiscanbeacool frequently dumprainonthecity(around urbs. Cloudstend tohover over Suvaand pockets climbthehillsof theouter sub- sipates inall otherdirections asresidential density of thecentralbusiness districtdis- marks thecity’swestern border,andthe views of Suva Harbour andJoske’s Thumb in India. A breezy esplanadewithfabulous in smallwyndsplucked fromacity straight shopsandbric-a-bracsari traders huddle andshoppingplazas.Curryhouses, rises colonial buildingssidleuptomodernhigh- the warpeddowntowngrid,where grand milieu of cultures andinfluencesinhabits the SouthPacific Ocean.Acosmopolitan cupying asmallpeninsulajuttinginto isasultryspreadThe Fijiancapital oc- pop 358,495 SUVA the simple are F$50return perperson. basic andtransfers fromPacific Harbour Sturdy dormsanddoublesare airyand state, trumpedonlybysuperlative surfing. excellent foodlullguestsintoanidyllic This excellent FIJI MUSEUM Sights h CakobauRd;adult/child F$7/5;museum.org.fj; Ratu linguistic evolution with originalmusical linguistic evolution Fiji’s archaeological, political,cultural and Around halfof are Suva’sinhabitants Etched intoa grassy grove of theisland, 9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pm Sat) 9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri,

www.frigatesreef.com; dm/s/dF$40/70/120) Yanuca IslandResort museum www.lonelyplanet.com

( % 331 5944;www.fiji

( delves into % 336 1281, is finest contemporary artists. upstairs features worksbythecountry’s ture andthesmallIndo-FijianGallery adiversitysells of booksonFijiancul- cannibal utensils. a dauntingarrayof Fijianwarclubsand There’snificent double-hulledcanoe. also instruments, pottery, jewelleryandamag- www.lonelyplanet.com ment buildings reclaimed land.Opened in1992,the St,are onheavy set foundations atop narvon buildings The foreboding andhandsome OTHER SIGHTS rainforest and atanaltitudethatreaches 600ft,this kilometresEleven fromdowntownSuva, PARK FOREST COLO-I-SUVA grand andstatelyfigtrees. underoneoflarly ifyoucampyourself the relief. It’salovely spotforapicnic,particu- providesand bench seating sensory-fatigue alists. Walkingtrailstraverse thegardens belled forthebenefitof curioushorticultur- lawns. Much of thevividvegetation isla- flora scattered the haphazardly throughout the tropicalelement,withclusters of native dens. Thelackof fussylandscapingaddsto compactbutbeautifulgar- these through takeAfter awander visitingthemuseum, GARDENS THURSTON hourly). (F$1,20 minutes,Suva busstation half- mended. travelling alonethis is definitely recom- have aguardaccompanyyouandifyou’re can payanadditionalfee (onasking)to situationwithinthepark.You the security entering,Suva. askthe guardsabout Before left sideof theroadasyouapproach from and sulphur-breasted muskparrots. Fijigoshawk scarlet robin,spotted fantail, birdspeciesfillthepark,including teen Jones intheropeswingsover water. Four- gorgeous withjustatouch of vistas, Indiana trails which navigate clearnaturalpoolsand (tholo-ee-s haven fromtheurbanhubbub.Colo-i-Suva h The souvenir shoponthegroundfloor To get here, take theSawenibusfrom The visitorinformationcentre isonthe 8am-4pm Mon-Sun) (1939and1967), attheendof Car- oo park

-va) has6.5kmof walking ( %

( % 330 5811;www.parliament.gov.fj; isacoolandpeaceful 332 0211;adult/childF$5/1; government government parlia- ances where temporary exhibitsanddanceperform- Sat) includes a50mand25mpool. built forthe2003SouthPacific Games and free rehearsal mornings. onweekday Sat &9am-6pmSunOct-Jun, 10am-6pmJul-Sep) Bay Rd,LaucalaBay;admissionF$3; and adornedwithtraditionalFijian Laucala Campus University of theSouthPacific’s main the guardatmainentrance. avisitor’spassfrom but youcanalsoobtain ifyouwanttotourthegrounds, call ahead clothes andworksof to art.It’sadvisable and then immerse yourself in and then immerse turn left onto Usher ontoThomson St,right motion. Make yourwaydownRodwell Rd, and fruit,take a snapshotof localsin Ogle astraders ply theirkava, vegetables of destinations–the hours forthistour.yourself several placetowander around.Givea pleasant buildings andplacesof interest, makingit Downtown Suva hasascattering of colonial Tour Suva Walking Dr,Lami) 75 Marine &7am-7pmSatOct-Mar) Mon-Fri h The Activities also around Pacific trees andplants.Youcan a small Battery Rd;admissionfree) the northwestern entrance, on the right, is the northwestern entrance,ontheright, cultural diversity Inside isacurioinitself. out thePacific attend theuniversity andthe watching. Studentsfromislandsthrough- spotforastrollandboutofpleasant people- connect.com.fj; connect.com.fj; at the F$40 perday. Lagoon. Beqa and PADI openwater courses (F$550) in play area, laplanesandchanging cubicles. and anoasisonahotday.There isakiddies ming Pool The sizeableoutdoor Beqa Divers Fiji Beqa Divers Set inabreadth ofSet breezy gardens,the Start yourjourneywiththat mostSuvan Start Visiting yachties canget membership . Mooringfees at forasmallyacht start 10am-6pm Mon-Fri & 8am-6pm Sat Apr-Sep, 9am-7pm &8am-6pmSatApr-Sep, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri National AquaticCentre visit the are held.It’soften possibletocatch a Royal SuvaYacht Club botanical garden

(224 Victoria Pde;adult/childF$1.65/80c; (224 Victoria h Oceania Centre for Arts & Culture &Culture forArts OceaniaCentre offers dives two-tank (F$145)

( office 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm office 8am-5pmMon-Fri,

% ( % 331 3900;fax3301305) 336 1088;www. are farmore aesthetic VITI LEVU ••Suva VITI LEVU municipal market withtrailswinding isafamilymagnet Suva OlympicSwim-

(

% ( % h 331 8185;Laucala 331 2921;rsyc@ 6am-8pm Mon- beqadivers Cumming St Cumming isa was tapa

167 .com; (1)

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 168 Cnrl Suva Central 4 6 1 3 2 5 CENTRAL SUVA 58 VITI LEVU ••Suva VITILEVU Dolphin Plaza Cruickshank Harbour Suva 28 Umaria Park 49 ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Park AC 33 32

Princes Wharf See Enlargement Central St Central 45

Queen Elizabeth Dr St Loftus

Victoria61 Pde Stinson Pde Wharf Kings

Buildings (2km) Macarthur St Macarthur To Parliament St Gordon 63

Government Southern Cross Rd Cross Southern Buildings Carnarvon St 66 Thomson

53 Joske St Loftus St Loftus Kimberley St Renwick Rd St

Goodenough St

29 Rd Cakobau Ratu Usher St Usher

Albert

Thurs 19 Jellicoe Rd 57 24

Park Scott St Pratt St Pratt ὈὈ

ton St 13

Hercules 69 Gladstone Rd Gladstone 10 Clock Tower Botanic Gardens

27 Harris Rd

May St May

Walk Terry 23 St Gorrie Ellery St Ellery B

St 56 Rodwell Rd Nina St Nina

Selbourne St Selbourne

Gordon St Gordon Cumming St Cumming

Malcolm St 68 5 Greig St Greig

Stewart Robertson 41 18 Centenary Methodist 46 Walu Bay

Church Struan St 4

M M Park

itchell St arks ὈὈ ὈὈ

42 40 Desvouex Rd St

St St Fort St William 44 Narayan Temple Rd Rd son Berry Rd

Shree Laxmi

Raojibhai Nubukalou Edinburgh Dr Edinburgh To RoyalSuvaYachtClub(1km);

Beqa DiversFiji(4km);Raffles

Anand Anand Tradewinds Hotel(4.7km) 36 Patel St Patel

Cres Rd McGregor Berkly Holland St Rd Toorak Disraeli Rd Disraeli 31

Victoria Creek Waimanu Rd Park 400m 0.2miles 0 0

50 Davey Ave Davey

Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Brewster St Brewster Sukuna 25 Library Ratu Park Suva City Pender St 11 Suva St 0

Denison Rd Johnson St Johnson

35 Spring St Spring

Central St Central Marion Victoria Pde 43 60

67 Stinson Pde

Toorak Walu Bay

Macarthur St Macarthur

Knollys St Knollys High St High 20

3 70 Toorak Rd Toorak 55

Marks 1

9 Gordon St Gordon Park 59 Homestay Suva(2.5km);MaltHouse

St 62 To AustralianEmbassy(700m); 22 Brewery &Restaurant(4km); 15 17 & RaintreeLodge(11km) Colo-i-Suva ForestPark 7 2 Thomson St www.lonelyplanet.com

Holy Trinity Joske St Cathedral Telecom Arts &Culture(1km);National Fiji 34 100 m

National Stadium(1.7km); St Eden

Duncan St Duncan (1km); OceanicCentrefor Clarke St Clarke

Renwick Rd 64

14 To USPLaucalaCampus Aquatic Centre(1.5km); Mu 38 rr St Pier Wai 21 ma

ay Scott St n 54 Huon St Huon u

Café Tivoli(1.8km); St Amy St

16 Thomson St Rd D

Facility (100m) Brewster St Brewster Recompression Free Shop(1.8km)

Bau St St Pratt Brown St Brown Chamber 6 To Fiji 8

Hercules St 47 To Nanette's 39 Homestay 26 Fiji (2km) 51 48 To Pure

(150m)

37 Rd

Augustus St Extension Central Suva is alsohere. ances. The stately 1909 ances. The stately fordances, bazaarsonce used andperform- restaurants, theoldtownhallbuildingwas the 1904 pale colonial1926 tinue southdownVictoriaPde, pastthe make yourwaybacktoThomsonSt.Con- (6) esplanade tillyoureach arts andcrafts.Turnleftfollow the of thestalls and potter handmade through www.lonelyplanet.com the Renwick Rd,crosstheriver anddropinto onto in theshopwindows.Turningright displayed atthestunningsaris and marvel (2) Suva Harbour son Pdeandsnapupthedramaticviewsof St.Takedown Central abreather onStin- and make forthewater bygoing abeeline got thebetter of youlastnight. fee, orperhaps arecovery juiceifthebitters SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION British HighCommission...... Boulevard MedicalCentre...... Boulevard CentralPharmacy.....(see4) Bookmasters...... ANZ Bank...... Alpha Computer...... Old TownHall...... Kingsford SmithPavilion...... Fiji Museum...... Westpac Bank...... Visitor InformationCentre...... Vanua Arcade...... US Embassy...... Suva Bookstore...... Organisation...... (see66) South PacificTourism Republic ofCappuccino...... (see54) Post Office...... New ZealandEmbassy...... Netherlands Consulate...... Money Exchange...... Map Shop...... Korean Embassy...... (see20) Japanese Embassy...... (see8) Hunts Travel...... (see8) German Consulate...... French Embassy...... (see8) Fintel...... Embassy ofTuvalu...... Embassy ofNauru...... Dominion HouseArcade...... Connect InternetCafé...... Colonial WarMemorialHospital.. . Amble through thistree-littered. Amblethrough plotto . Suckinthescentof and curry incense At theendof RenwickRd,crosstheroad Republic ofCappuccino Republic Suva Curio & Handicraft Centre &Handicraft Suva Curio old townhall and Joske’s Thumb Joske’s

(8) Fintel building Fintel . Now home to several . Nowhometoseveral ( 238 12 11 10 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 EATING 16 15 14 13 Suva City Library 3 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ; p173 ) foracof- Ratu Sukuna Park Sukuna Ratu C4 B5 C5 D3 D3 D2 B5 B3 C4 D4 C4 C5 B5 B6 D3 D3 C4 B5 B3 D3 D3 D4 D3 B5 B1

(4) SLEEPING Capricorn ApartmentHotel...... Thurston Gardens...... Suva OlympicPool...... St Andrew’sChurch...... Roman CatholicCathedral...... L'Opera...... Korea House...... JJ's onthePark...... Hot BreadKitchen...... Harbour Centre...... Restaurant...... Govinda’s Vegetarian Focaccia Café...... (see20) ShoppingCentre...... (see4) Downtown Boulevard Dolphin PlazaFoodCourt...... (see66) Daikoku...... Curry House...... Capital Palace...... Cakes 2000...... Ashiyana...... (see 25) Tanoa PlazaHotel...... Suva MotorInn...... Suva Apartments...... Sunset ApartmentMotel...... Southern CrossHotel...... South SeasPrivateHotel...... Peninsula InternationalHotel.... Motel 6...... Holiday Inn...... Grand PacificHotel...... Colonial Lodge......

. Dropinto (7) ( 5 andthe p174) ;

(9)

Rd and Queen Elizabeth DveRd andQueen istheentrance Cakobau on yourleft. Atthecorner of Ratu Hotel, crosstheroad,keeping AlbertPark are underway. abandoned since1992butrestoration plans Thehotel has been that oncepliedtheseas. tecture isreminiscent of theluxury liners Steamship Company,itsship-stylearchi- (14) Pacific Hotel opposite thepark,isGloriousold aviator wholandedhere. Ontheseaside, Smith Pavilion northern edge of theparkis team inaction buildings, youmaycatch arugbyunion a rest at Cakobau and Ratu Sukuna. andRatu Cakobau manicured green lawnsare of statues Ratu buildings(11) government sideareOn yourright-hand thestately extensive water viewsinthebackground. scrambling over monkey bars andoffering Once you’ve theGrand Pacific passed In theblocksouthof the government Continue downVictoriaPdeandtake 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 mra ak (10) Park Umaria D4 D5 C2 A3 D2 D3 B3 A4 C3 C3 B3 B5 B5 D5 D5 C6 C5 D2 A5 A6 C2 C2 B6 A4 B4 D4

SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT TRANSPORT DRINKING Taxi Stand...... (see69) Sun Air...... Patterson BrothersShipping....(see68) Consort Shipping...... (see8) Bus Station...... Beachcomber Cruises...... Air Fiji...... (see59) Centre...... Suva Curio&Handicraft ROC Market...... Jack’s Handicrafts...... Government CraftsCentre...... (see9) Bob’s HookLine&Sinker...... (see47) Village 6CinemaComplex...... Traps Bar...... O'Reilly's...... (see 59) Birdland R&BClub...... Barn...... Bad DogCafe...... Victoria Wines&Spirits...... Tiko’s FloatingRestaurant...... Suva MunicipalMarket...... Supermarket...... Singh's CurryHouse...... Republic ofCappuccino...... (see66) Republic ofCappuccino...... Old MillCottage...... Morris HedstromSupermarket.. (13) . Builtin1914bytheUnion , namedafter thefamous Albert Park (12) Albert VITI LEVU ••Suva VITI LEVU . Presiding over the , teeming withkids , teeming . Onthe Kingsford Kingsford 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 Grand

169 C4 B2 B2 C3 A4 D3 D3 A4 D5 A5 C5 C5 A3 B2 B2 C4 D3 A5 B2

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 grounds isthe beneath oneof thestatelyfigs.Within thisbalmyparkandtake abreatherthrough lunch at to VictoriaPdeforawell-earnedteppanyaki Standdoglegyourwayback Goodenough Church(17) St Andrew’s centre. St,with Turnleft atGoodenough into GordonStandleadsbacktothecity Continue alongMcGregor Rd,which turns have viewsof sweeping thecitybelow. Amid thetranquilresidential streets you’ll at Pender StandleftagainatMcGreg or Rd. and ascendintotheinnersuburbs.Turnleft the maindrag.Strollpastbars andclubs to 170 Tour Suva Walking Continue east along Ratu Cakobau Rd Cakobau Continue eastalongRatu Head back onto Carnarvon Sttobypass Head backontoCarnarvon Duration Distance Finish Start WALK FACTS Harbour Thurston Gardens Thurston VITI LEVU ••Suva VITILEVU Suva Loftus St 4 Umaria

Park Stinson 14 10 MunicipalMarket 7

9 Pde

Visitor InformationCentre

Central Princes St Daikoku Wharf ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ Victoria Pde 8

Queen Elizabeth Dr About4km Three hours 18 19 Government

Southern Cross Rd Cross Southern Thomson 5 Thurston Gardens Buildings

11 Jo St Kimberley St

ske 3 Goodenough St

Mu Fiji Museum

St ( Albert Gordon rr 1 Carnarvon St

Park ay Ratu Cakobau Rd Cakobau Ratu

13 Scott St St Pratt Macarthur St St Gladstone Rd Gladstone

Hercules 21

p172). ;

Renwick Rd St ( 12 onthecorner. Follow 17 20

Gorrie St Gorrie Selbourne St Selbourne

16 St

Cumming St Cumming Meander p167). ; Gordon St Gordon Malcolm St Ὀ Ὀ ( 2 200m 0.1miles 0 0 16

; p166 ).

Williamson

Nub

u k alou

Denison Rd

McGregor Rd McGregor Creek

Pender St Ὀ homestay with cheerful rooms. Breakfast included. homestay withcheerful .com.fj; 19AnandSt;dm/s F$30/65,dF$90)Boisterous (F$70 perperson). (F$60/85 perperson) andcitytours of Suva andfull-daytours toNasilaivillage half- on theNavua River (F$115perperson), hotels and offers tours raftingandcanoeing less.com; 6WilliamsonRd;dm/s/d/fF$14/25/35/40; 17 BauSt;s/d/trfromF$45/60/75; tours.com) (from F$135perperson). along theNavua River toagiantwaterfall Suva Apartments BUDGET Sleeping Fiji Wilderness EthnicAdventure Tours the and leftontoPierSttoendyourjourneyat ontoRenwickRd left ontoPrattSt,right of Suva’smostprominentlandmarks.Turn imported fromSydneyandone sandstone the1902 St. Atthecornerof MurrayandPrattStsis St,crossing GordonSttoMurray narvon in Fiji.ContinuewalkingnorthalongCar- someofoutlet which sells thefinestcrafts Centre Crafts Government of thislittlebackroadandduckintothe Sunset Apartment Motel Sunset Apartment advised. ence. Itfills upquickly,sobookingsare and steel creates clinicalambi- aslightly theabundanceof although concretestays, kitchens. It’s anexcellentoptionforlong ern andspotlessunitswithfullyequipped 20mod- this apartmentblockcontains built toaccommodate FijianOlympians, Colonial Lodge preference. may beaplusorminusdepending onyour which much humantraffic, see It doesn’t and allbutoneroomhasshared facilities. and spaciousdormshave large bunks steel Suva’s mostatmosphericbuildings.Neat interior veranda, and sweeping isoneof This gloriousoldhotel, withit’socean-liner Central option withdatedbutaccommodating apartments. Sts;dm/s/d fromF$12/45/55; cnr Gordon& Murray www.wildernessfiji.com.fj) Discover Fiji Tours Discover South Seas Private Hotel Private South Seas More budget options: visitor informationcentre Alsooffers trips20kminland canoe Roman Catholic Cathedral Roman Catholic ( %

( % 330 0655;coloniallodge@connect

330 4280;[email protected]; ( % PicksupfromSuva ( % 345 0180;www.discoverfiji ( www.lonelyplanet.com

( 19 % na 330 1799;fax3446; ( ; p174 ), asmall 21 331 2296;www.fiji4 ; p147 ).

(20) ( ) % Originally , builtof 359 3230; a n ) )

.capricorn-hotels-fiji.com; 7 Fort St;rF$100-130; 7Fort .capricorn-hotels-fiji.com; suva.com.fj; Victoria Pde; dfromF$120; suva.com.fj; Victoria the centralpoolisakid-magnet. Park views)andthewater to slideattached have balconies(askforonewithAlbert kitchens and oodlesof space. Allrooms sunnyfurnishings, moderncontaining fresh studioandtwo-bedroom apartments ilies, theSuvaMotorInnhassmartand .fj; 56 Extension St;d/stfromF$90/135; .fj; 56Extension www.lonelyplanet.com cnr Mitchell & Gorrie Sts;d110-175; &Gorrie cnr Mitchell Homestay Nanette’s MIDRANGE a contented sleep. night’s locationmakes for and theout-of-the-way ettes. It’sspotless,friendlyandvery secure, bedroom familyroomswithsmall kitchen- andfridges andone- motel roomswithTVs views, thiscomplexhaswell-maintained harbouroff WaimanuRd,withboggling ments sits high on ToorakHilland buzzes ments sits high This secure and friendlyblock of apart- is generic. apatheticandtheatmospherecan beslightly ities tomatch. Onthedownside,staff travellers andcoach tours andhasthefacil- rooms.Itappealslargelyfortable tobusiness Holiday Innhasspacious,coolandcom- government the buildingsandmuseum, ontheharbourshore,Right opposite the F$70/95) them homewithyou. are sofriendlyyou’llwanttotakeThe staff schmick apartmentswithmodernkitchens. lounge andkitchen. Downstairs are three large bathtubs.There’s alsoacommunalTV appealing bathrooms,somewithdeliciously into aquietresidential area, thisB&Bhas Suva MotorInn Holiday Inn Capricorn Apartment Hotel Apartment Capricorn Motel 6 Motel Raintree Lodge THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE the water. Catch theSawenibusfromSuva’sterminal. patches oflawnminglewiththebuildings,andthere’s anexcellentrestaurant ( p173 ) overlooking also intimate cosy doubleswithceilingfans,plumpbedsandachunkofbalconywater views. There are Raintree Lodgeoffers tidybunkdormsintimbercottages,andatwo-storey cabincontaining it’sonly12kmandF$1onthebus.Fortunately, Tucked intoaprivate oftropicalforest, pocket rainforest, sun-dappledhammocks…thistranquillodgefeels agalaxyawayfromdowntownSuva. F$12.50, dmF$18-20,dF$60-110; Perched attheendof acul-de-sac

( %

( 330 7477;fax7133;1WaluSt;d/f % bure

( %

330 1600;reservations@holidayinn ( % ( with secluded balconies and lake views. withsecludedbalconiesandlake prolificbirdlife Glossylakes, andwide % 331 3973;www. 332 0562; [email protected]; Princes Rd, Colo-i-Suva; campingperperson Rd,Colo-i-Suva; Princes 332 0562;[email protected]; 331 6316;www.nanettes.com s

( % na nis ) nais Fab forfam- 330 3732;www hexagonfiji ) Tucked as ) Dulcetbirdwarblesinthemorning,lushpatchesof .com; ) )

nais Sts;dF$185-200,stF$410; .com; cnrGordon&Malcolm need tobookinadvance. Nochildren.need andkitchenettes. You’ll with balconies,TVs and there are alsocapaciousstudiorooms Stylish doublesreside inthecolonialhouse this Suva’sfinestlocationtorest thehead. simply dazzling. and viewsfromthe5thfloor upare rooms. It’sthemoststylishof Suva’shotels minibars andpamperproductsinthebath- large beds,chic interiors, fullyequipped hotel caters creatures tocomfort-needy with flashy airportlobby about them. trimmings, buttheyhave atouch of the Rooms are sizeableandcome withtop-end toluresnazzy enough discerningguests. roomsaretion andwell-maintained still some of butthewaterfront loca- itssheen, nais tradewinds.com; QueensRd,Lami;d/stfromF$130/280; as Rd,Tamavua;.com.fj; 265Princes dinclbreakfast F$165-195; Homestay Suva TOP END Southern CrossHotel Hotel Peninsula International and har Some of thebalconieshave dazzlingcity microwaves.well-equipped kitchens contain unitsandthe décor fillstheself-contained with ahappy,personable air. Mixandmatch residential area. nas .peninsula.com.fj; cnrMcGregor &Pender Sts;s/dF$75/90; pool deck straight outofpool deckstraight a Smart rooms,popularwithbusinesstravellers. Smart 63GordonSt;rF$100-135; connect.com.fj; Tanoa PlazaHotel Raffles Tradewinds Hotel TradewindsHotel Raffles Also recommended: ) Unmatched class and service and a anda Unmatched classandservice bour views. ) Largehotelwithsnugroomsinaleafy ) ) Suva’s onetime starlet haslost Suva’sonetimestarlet

This sleek andsophisticatedThis sleek ( % 337 0395;homestaysuva@connect ( ( % % VITI LEVU ••Suva VITI LEVU 331 4233;southerncross@ 331 2300;www.tanoahotels

( % Vogue ( % 336 2450;www.raffles 331 3711;www shootmake as )

171

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 h Pde; mainsF$10-15; Park intoSuva’spremier hotel. doned GrandPacific Hotel opposite Albert ture totransformtheaban- haspromised rooms inthetop-endcategory. Ajointven- themidrange options)alsohave(see classy sweets ondisplay. sweets itely leave roomforthedeliciousIndian thalis isimpressive butyoushoulddefin- indication of itsauthenticity.The arrayof this vegetarian restaurant, which isagood one of thefew placesopenonaSunday. backed booths It’s oroptforatakeaway. plenty of choice andyoucandine at high- Vegetariansand darkcurryhouse. get selves fromthefrontcounter atthiscool mostly SouthIndiancurriesflauntthem- 5pm Mon-Fri, to2.30pmSat) 5pm Mon-Fri, highly recommended.highly fashion on centralhotplates. Bookings yourfareskilled chefs sear inspectacular tongue andhalf thefuniswatching the teppanyaki. The foodmeltsonthebeef chickenDaikoku’s speciality:seafood, and to whetthepalate before moving onto a roundof andAsahi sushi,sashimi beers Daikoku JAPANESE, CHINESE &KOREAN inearlytoavoid wait. the run.Get atable snacks are agoodoptionifyou’re on other The fresh andsetting. pakoras, samosas fish andvegetarian curriesinacanteen-style budgets caneatlike kings. where ontight the-wall curryhouses, those Suva hasanexcellentspread of hole-in- INDO-FIJIAN Eating 172 curry house serves excellentlamb,chicken, serves curry house 2pm Sat) 93 CummingSt;mealsF$5-7.50; F$4-10; consider themhot. here are drivers legendary thetaxi –even dishes. Thespicycurries thali andtandoori good andserves style fromthecurryhouses Ashiyana isastep upinatmosphere and For anIndianfeast inrefined surrounds, The HolidayInnandSuvaMotor Curry House Curry Govinda’s Vegetarian Restaurant Vegetarian Govinda’s Ashiyana Singh’s Curry House Singh’s Curry lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) VITI LEVU ••Suva VITILEVU h Sari-clad families fill the tables at Sari-cladfamiliesfillthetables ( % lunch &dinner)

( % 330 8968; Victoria Pde;mainsF$15-20; 330 8968;Victoria

( % h 331 3000; Old Town Hall Bldg, Victoria 331 3000;OldTownHallBldg,Victoria 331 3756;mealsF$4-10; lunch &dinnerTue-Sat, dinnerSun)

( % A delectable arrayof Adelectable This bright and busy andbusy Thisbright Start the night with thenight Start 359 1019;GordonSt;meals h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 9am-5pm Mon-Fri,

( % 330 9587; h 9am-

Pde; mealsF$5; 7; mains F$12-17; F$10; Cakes 2000 Cakes CAFÉS sounds incongruous but itworks).The in thearcadelobby (it or tables seating rolls, kebabs andfocaccias at itscounter- fresh burgers,bustling eatery serves wraps, daily dinnerdiscounts. the food.There’s aF$10lunch specialand into goes buttheeffort and no-nonsense prawn andchicken. Theinterior isplain alongside authenticsquid,pork,tofu, pungent grand Korean mural,thisrestaurant serves palusami sandwichesstuffed orFijian faves like Tuckinto over-roll. Andforthesensible? with aheartybreakfast ordivinesausage cake shop.Ifyou’re hungryyoumaybegin cheesecakes atthiscafé-cum-bakery-cum- forthebypass themainsandgostraight surround diners. Mouth-watering smellsandahappydin chickeninfusions like sesame withtaro. and friedsquidwithchilli plus andsalt, includingsharkfinsoup authentic delights, yum cha, buttheregular menualsocites converges here fortheexcellentSunday h aia Palace Capital Focaccia Café Focaccia Café Korea House Korea Rd, Raiwai; mealsF$6-13; Rd, Raiwai; beneath abreezy outdoorpagoda. the culinarypleasures attablesscattered only stylishfeature andyougettoconsume and inventive salads. The foodisn’tthe treats. Forlunchthere are densequiches stacks, pastriesorsugaryslicesandbaked Early sweettoothscantuckintopancake orperhapsamammothBLTyou like bagel. stuffed withsalsaandcheese,eggsanystyle Café Tivoli THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE may like to start thedaywithacroissant tostart may like go giddy atthesightofdeli-dishes. You Westerners cravinggourmetdelightswill a positively cosmopolitanaffairandfussy The menuatSuva’scaféofthemomentis h 7.30am-4pm) lunch &dinner) orroastlambneck. kimchi

( %

h ( h %

( 330 8994; 113 Marks St;mealsF$5- 330 8994;113Marks ( % lunch &dinner) Ifyou’re decadentyou’ll ( % breakfast &lunchMon-Sat) % andstickyKorean BBQ 338 5407; Garden City,Grantham 338 5407;Garden 330 9117; Vanua Arcade, Victoria 330 9117;Vanua Arcade,Victoria 331 6088; 64 Victoria Pde;mains 331 6088;64Victoria 331 1711;178WaimanuRd; It seems halfof SuvaIt seems www.lonelyplanet.com h breakfast &lunch) Guardedbya

This

h mainsF$12-23; Rd,Colo-i-Suva; Princes connect.com.fj; front veranda orlarge booths inside. workers parkthemselves onthe attables officeries ortraditionalroasts.Devoted adventurous diners canoptforIndiancur- atthishumbleSuvainstitution.Less served orfish stewed incoconutmilk, and seaweed fare, including gastronomes willlove theauthenticFijian surrounds. Starbucks) ies andsnacksinair-conditioned (andvery supremely friendly. breakfasts are hotandfillingthestaff www.lonelyplanet.com F$6-12; Cottage Old Mill RESTAURANTS (Scott St) Shopping Centre fare atthefoodcourts For aroundF$5youcantuckintotakeaway QUICK EATS and Fijiandishes. dinner) Rd,Vatu;1515; 88Jerusalem mainsF$15-30; Pde) above apeacefullake atthislovely lodge quil restaurant sitsonanopen-airveranda and worththetrek fromdowntown. dishes. It’soften filledwithaboisterous din can tuckintoinventive andmeat seafood down wellwiththealesandlagers, oryou repeat performances. Wood-fired pizzasgo happy diners backtothispopularspotfor Renwick Rd; Renwick dinner Mon-Sat,10am-7pmSun); Pde; 0333; DolphinArcade,Victoria 7pm Sun) Malt House Brewery & Restaurant & Restaurant HouseBrewery Malt Republic of Cappuccino ofCappuccino Republic Raintree Lodge Raintree Marley melodies. you mayfindyourself onthedancefloor,oraccompanying theacousticmusicianscroonBob other trendy youngpatrons,but thecrowdisfriendlyandunpretentious. As thenightprogresses lining thewalls. The mainbarsimmerswiththehappy dinoftrendy young patronsmeeting andhighbenches (yeswithsports) TV in theopenmainroomwithapooltable, wide-screen holes. Enterand TrapsisoneofSuva’sbestdrinking andyou’llfindyourself theconvivialbunker façadeisjustaruseassuming –acoupleofbouncersoutside adimdoorway.Butthelow-key Traps Bar THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE breakfast, lunch&dinner) . All serve pizza, pasta, Chinese, curries Chinese, pizza,pasta, . Allserve Deliciousmicrobrews and foodlure h and Serves goodcoffee, juices,smooth- Serves 7am-6pm Mon-Fri, to5pmSat) 7am-6pm Mon-Fri, h

Dolphin Plaza breakfast, lunch&dinnerMon-Sat,10am- ( %

(

palusami, (Ellery St) 331 2922; Victoria Pde) 331 2922;Victoria ( % 331 2134; 49 Carnarvon St;dishes 331 2134;49Carnarvon 332 0562;www.raintreelodge@ Suva’smosttran- , the

Downtown Boulevard Downtown Boulevard

Dolphin Arcade Downtown (cnr Loftus St & Victoria St&Victoria (cnr Loftus curriedshellfish h Harbour Centre breakfast, lunch& ( Inquisitive % The entrancetothissubterranean saloonbarisfairlyun- h

( 330 0828, 330 0828, ( % % lunch & 337 330

Sat) Excellent surf-and-turf fare inelegantsurrounds. Sat) Excellentsurf-and-turf Pde; mainsF$20-35; F$15-25; Fri, to1pmSat) Fri, Kitchen downtown onRodwellRd.The for village visits. It’salsoagreatsweets. placetobuykava and vegetables, plusneon-coloured Indian Mon-Sat) rdwns oe (p171). Hotel Tradewinds h .rafflestradewinds.com; Queens Rd,Lami;mainsF$15-30; Suva Municipal Market Suva Municipal SELF-CATERING Tiko’s Floating Restaurant breakfast are legendary. andthepancakes at grant curriesare served fare, inventive vegetarian optionsandfra- accompany yourmeal.TraditionalFijian the surroundingrainforest andbirdcalls (see p171 filters). Dappledsunlight through excellent. Pure romance. offer andtheantipastowinelistare tuna, veal andlobster dishesare alsoon gnocchi, ravioli Authentic andotherpastas. andlovingly settings decadent table made luscious sliceof features Italy ornate fabrics, Raffles FloatingRestaurant Raffles attentive. and theservice list. Thesurroundsare glossyandpolished withanimpressivedishes are wine served burgers,erous salads, steak andseafood JJ’s isanatmosphericplacetodine. Gen- views fromthe180-degree glassfrontage, Western-style foodandterrific harbour h Victoria Wines&Spirits Victoria There are acoupleof supermarkets L’Opera JJ’s onthePark More restaurants: lunch & dinner) Beautiful harbour views at the Raffles lunch &dinner)BeautifulharbourviewsattheRaffles lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinnerSat,brunchSun) lunch &dinnerMon-Fri, Thebestplaceforfish, exoticfruit

h ( %

( % lunch &dinner) 331 3919;ScottSt; serves bakery goodiesand serves 331 8602;59GordonSt;mainsF$20-35; h

( % lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner lunch &dinnerMon-Fri, VITI LEVU ••Suva VITI LEVU 330 5005;StinsonPde;mains

( (Rodwell Rd; % ( Dishingupgood % ( % 331 2884; Victoria Pde; 331 2884;Victoria h 331 3626;offStinson 336 2450;www 5.30am-7pm Mon- h Hot Bread mornings

This

173

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Mon-Thu, &Sat) 8am-midnightFri mountains. ing holewithgreat viewsof theharbourand stupid. group –walkinghomeisdownright aftertake ifyou’re ataxi dark,even ina pickpockets onthedancefloorandalways priate attire (noflipflops),watch outfor and barhoppers. todonappro- You’llneed when VictoriaPdeswarmswithclubbers and loadedonFridaySaturdaynights, Suva’s drinkinganddancingdensget happy Drinking h 174 Victoria Pde) Victoria the atmosphere isfunandfriendly. and expats.There’s nodistinctage codeand throbbing withlocals,travellers, students and by11ishthedancefloorisgenerally bar manages tobrew apartymostnights quiet beers andagameof pool.Butthis low-keyThings start atO’Reillys–afew range of grog. bar atthe JJ’s onthePark ( p173 ). The restaurant and Malt Brewery House ( &Restaurant p173 ) or at thebar. or propyourself beneaththefunkylighting dark andswanky,youcangrababooth tochilled beats.Theatmosphere is served barsnacksandimportedtasty beers are Suva’s stylishbars, where headycocktails, O’Reillys O’Reillys Bad Dog Café Bad DogCafé You can also grab a sociable drink at the You canalsograbasociabledrinkatthe is an intrinsic aspect ofthecountryand anunexpected eye-opener.is anintrinsic aspect unemployment.Although it’snottheFijisurviving ofpostcards,Fiji’s risingurban youth culture inthemidstofacityfilledwithethnic strife.backgrounds, Many facethenearimpossibilityof ernised city. cultural protocols,andtheliberal,individualistic lifestyle ofthemodernandincreasingly West- societyofthevillagesmanyhave leftbehind,wheretraditional, conservative life wasfilledwith finds ajob).However, theseyouthsalsofindthemselves straddlingtwoopposingworlds–the age parenthood, unemployment (onlyoneineightschoolleavers crime,drugsandskyrocketing their hairandpoledancetopopmusic. that thisisno with aflowerbehindhisearandpitcherofbeerontray,youdon’tneed anyreminding As abig,indigenousFijian man–whoshouldbeplayingthechiefinthissceneapproaches poorly litroomiscrowdedwithbothtouristsandlocalsyelling‘ Dancers payhomagetothesteady beat ofthedrums,seeminglyoblivioustospectators. The MOVING TO THEBEAT OFA DIFFERENTDRUM 11am-9pm Mon-Fri, to2pmSat) 11am-9pm Mon-Fri, VITI LEVU ••Suva VITILEVU The risingclubandcafé culture isbringing togetheryouthsfromindigenous andIndo-Fijian Fiji’s urbanyouth facemanyofthesamedifficultiesasyoungpeoplearoundglobe:teen- ( Despite thenamethisisoneof % Royal SuvaYacht Club 331 2968; cnr Macarthur St & Victoria Pde) St&Victoria 331 2968;cnrMacarthur ( meke % 330 4662; cnr Macarthur St& 330 4662;cnrMacarthur . This isSaturday nightinSuva,whenthecountry’surbanyouthletdown isapopularwater- sells agood sells

( h 8am-10pm 8am-10pm

St) rural artisans intheprocess. rural artisans for tofindauniquepiece. Moreover, itassists soit’sabetter by localartisans placetohead work where, high-quality this craftshopsells it outatthe andteams tough from ApriltoSeptember lasts it’s worthgoingtoamatch. Theseason ifyouaren’tand even thatkeen onthegame to busycrowdsare Hollywood andBollywoodfilms. cinema complexshows recently released clothing andcraftsbylocalartists. excellentjewellery, Engine)shopsells prise ment Program,theFree Enter- (FijiRetail St; admissionF$6) will beamatch duringyourstay. visitor informationcentre ( p147 ) ifthere Free Free Shop Shopping style St) 3833; 6Carnarvon listings andwhat’sonatnightclubs. Fiji Times ofCheck outtheentertainment section the Entertainment Rd, Raiwai) Laucala) endless stalls atthiscraftmarketendless stalls offer some Although it’smore Although expensive thanelse- Fijians are fanaticalabouttheirrugby, Two bar-cum-clubs featuring live music Suva Curio & Handicraft Centre Centre &Handicraft Suva Curio Centre Crafts Government Village 6CinemaComplex Village Barn . Theatmosphere ishuge. Ask atthe Supported bytheUNDevelop-

( ( % % for upcoming events, cinema forupcomingevents, Bula’ 330 7845; Carnarvon St) 330 7845;Carnarvon 359 3201; 1st fl, Garden City,Grantham 359 3201;1stfl,Garden National Stadium Suva’sflashycommercial andthecountrywestern tooneanotherover thedin. Birdland R&BClub www.lonelyplanet.com

( %

( % 331 5869; Macarthur 331 5869;Macarthur

(Stinson Pde)

. (Laucala BayRd, 330 6006;Scott

( % The The 330 330 Pier St)Souvenirsatreasonable prices. the vendor tells you. expect genuine antiques,regardless of what you wanttoget yourmoney’sworth.Don’t buys,butbepreparedfantastic tobargain if www.lonelyplanet.com unsealed between Korovou between unsealed andDama tripbybusor4WD. Theroadis a beautiful andaninfinite ocean.It’s past rugged cliffs ribboning itsway destination atLautoka, itthenskirtsthe shorelineBay, to itsfinal Meeting thenortherncoastatVitiLevu and kilometres of untouched landscapes. ascentsmatches itsbeautywithhighland sceneryof Rdbut the coastal theQueens and remote villages. highland Itlacks the island’sinterior, traversing farmland way, VitiLevu’s Kings Rdcourses through touristed thantheCoralCoast’shigh- Less KINGS ROAD VITI LEVU’S timetables. drivers orlocalsabouttheever-fluctuating isnexttothemarket:bus station ask bus themeter.they actuallyuse Thebusylocal Taxis are quite cheap forshort tripsand It iseasytoget aroundcentralSuvaonfoot. Around Getting costs F$20;see p150 northeast of totown centralSuva. Ataxi the priceof abus. you canoften get forlittlemore ataxi than to betravelling inagroup,you’llfindthat Rd. Ifyouhappen passengers alongQueens minal. Smalltrucksorcarriers willalsotake Rd andKingsfromSuva’smainbuster- Frequent operate alongQueens local buses &Away There Getting ofCappuccino.Dolphin ArcadeoutletoftheRepublic monthatthe onthethirdSundayofevery market ROC Market Bob’s Hook,Line&Sinker and fishinggear. divingCentre, ThomsonSt)Hasarangeofsnorkelling, Jack’s Handicrafts extracts atbargain prices. made fromcoconutoilandothernatural exquisitepurchase creams, soapsandscrubs Saturdaymorningyoucan spa, butevery 12.45pm Sat) airport andhowtoreach itfromSuva. Pure FijiPure Nausori International Airportis23km More shopping: This spot is actually a classy day Thisspotisactuallyaclassyday

(Victoria Pde;see (Victoria p173 ) Small,eclectic ( % 338 3611; 52 Karsanji St; 338 3611;52Karsanji ( %

330 8893; cnr Renwick Rd&330 8893;cnrRenwick for more onthe details ( % 330 1013;Harbour h 10am- 3333; www.safarilodge.com.fj) Ellington Wharf Adventure Water Sports Water Adventure Ellington Wharf ACTIVITIES cafés (onewithInternet access). banks, amarket, supermarket andafew ofship Kings Rdpastthesugarmill,town- the islands. the great snake-god Degei, creator of all tobethehomeof isbelieved vadra Range Against theskyline,imposingNakau- anddowntoRakiraki. Bay and VitiLevu along WainibukaRiver, pastsmallvillages roadwindsning journey:themountain Heading northwestfromKorovou isastun- &EllingtonWharf Rakiraki Vaileka, for international only. flights small andlow-key withanANZbankopen Theairportpremises aredomestic flights. Nausori, isahubforAirFijiandSun in Suva,19kmsouthwest. butyou’llbebetter staying bus station off and someinexpensive eateries are nearthe largest.country’s second Acoupleof banks only drawfortravellers isitsairport–the area’s agriculturalandindustryworkers. Its centre forthe Nausori isabustlingservice On theeastern bankof theRewaRiver, pop 22,000 Nausori ( vuka onOvalau p215 ). onVanuato Labasa ( Levu p215 ) andLe- from where there are busandferry ser vices (aboutNatovi a20-minute drive), Landing the wet. some skillisrequired here, particularlyin (from F$70 perperson perhour), plus (from F$25 perperson) andwindsurfing snorkelling tripsaround Nananu-i-Ra turn-off, ontheleft. It’sabout100mwestofcorpses. theVaileka personal reached tally whose atleast 872 place of Fiji’smostnotoriouscannibal look outfor (see twice aweek p215 ). walu insouthwestVanua fromhere Levu Patterson Brothers ferry travels toNabou- thewharfisafurther1.5km.A of Rakiraki; The turn-off to The turn-off Inland from about2kmoff Rakiraki, The airport,about3kmsoutheastof Heading towardsNadi, outof Rakiraki VITI LEVU •• Viti Levu’s Kings Road ••VitiLevu’s Kings VITI LEVU Vaileka

Another roadfollowsthecoastto has a bus station, taxi stands, stands, taxi hasabusstation, Udreudre’s Tomb Udreudre’s Ellington Wharf offers two-hour , theresting is5kmeast

( %

175

669

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 within and oneof thedoublesisen suite. structures are tiled, polishedand modern doublehere.or comfortable Thethatched stuck youcanbunk downinacleandorm butifyougetto headNananu-i-Ra, you’ve madeittothewharf it’spreferable and restaurant (mealsF$16toF$20). tennis court, decking andthere’s ahalf-size The poolissurroundedbylovely wooden annex. simple rooms(F$40)inaseparate two-storey blocks.There are alsocheaper, hotelfortable roomswith’70sdécorin bougainvillea, thiscoloniallodge hascom- cious groundswithcolourfulsplashesof Kings Rd;s/dF$65/100; Kings .com; dfromF$290-320,fF$480; Wananavu BeachResort SLEEPING &EATING days). (F$960/2200three/seven safaris pecially interesting are thesea-kayaking fishing,kitesurfingsailing, anddiving.Es- 176 Comfortable Comfortable coastline. and themainland’smountainous sort hasbeautifulviewsof Nananu-i-Ra northernmostpoint,thislovelyLevu’s re- pleasant nonetheless. pleasant food. Thebeach ispartiallymanmadebutit’s F$10 toF$35),which hasgorgeous and vistas Visitors are welcomeattherestaurant (meals villasbythewater.are three self-contained Rakiraki Hotel Rakiraki Ellington Wharf Ellington Wharf or earlobeornamentswere madefromhumanbonesandskullswere sometimes madeinto senseofvengeance.Mementos were toprolongthevictor’s ofthevictims kept Necklaces,hairpins sidered sacred relics, theseforkswere inthespirithouseawayfromwomenorchildren. kept consumed oreven toeatsomethemselves! sexually humiliated corpses. Captives were being often forcedtowatchtheirownbodyparts managed to keep theirwitsandlimbsaboutthemrecordedmanaged tokeep gruesome,fascinatingstories. the the event, menperformed where theywere butchered, andeaten baked onthelocalwargod’sbehalf. Incelebrationof Bodies were eitherconsumedonthebattlefieldorbroughtbacktovillagespirithouse, ofeverydaycannibalism toahaltinthelate life. 19thcentury,ithadbecomearitualisedpart spirit.Whenmissionariesbroughtwas alastinginsulttotheenemy’sfamilyanddeparted society diningontheenemywasconsidered theultimate revenge, asadisrespectful death Fijians beganfeasting upononeanotherasfarback2500yearsago. In traditionalFijian DINING ONTHEDEAD rows ofstoneswere usedtotallythenumberofbodieseaten bythechief. with teeth. Viti Levu intree placedthebonesofvictims Highlanders branchesastrophiesand andpreserved forsnacks,andwarclubswere bowls).Fleshwassmoked inlaid drinking (kava VITI LEVU •• Viti Levu’s Kings Road ••VitiLevu’s Kings VITILEVU Early European visitorsandsettlerswere understandablyobsessedwithcannibalism.Those who For cannibalisticfeasts, menfed themselves withspeciallong-prongedwoodenforks. Con- bure

( % ( have balconies,andthere % as 669 4101; www.tanoahotels.com; 669 4101;www.tanoahotels.com;

( 693 3333;dm/dF$20/60) % ) 669 4433;www.wananavu Nestledintospa- as cibi ) OnViti (deathdance)andwomenthe If curries, fish,soupsandsnacks. station. The station. & dinner) a taxi fromNadiisabout F$90. a taxi off atVaileka andcatch(F$8).Sharing ataxi groceries andgear 1.3kmtothewharf,get to EllingtonWharf.Toavoidoff lugging p215 ), which stopatVaileka andtheturn- the KingsRdfromSuvaandNadi(see Sunbeam hasregular express along buses THERE&AWAYGETTING winds are generally 10knots and above. surfing the tradewindsmakes itpopularfor snakes. Theisland’sexposure side forsea to kelling An abundanceof makes sealife forgreat ACTIVITIES withindigenouslittle contact culture. residents are of Europeandescentsothere’s There are noroadsandvillage andmost range acrossthewater onthemainland. views of thevolcanicNakauvadra mountain scalloped baysandsoft, grassy hillsoffering scape andcharacter. There are widebeaches, the mainlandbutvastlydifferent inland- Tiny isahopandskipfrom Nananu-i-Ra area 3.5sqkm Nananu-i-Ra Vaileka hasafew cheap cafésnearthebus offshore; headtotheisland’snorthern , especially from June to August when , especially fromJunetoAugust when at Ellington Wharf serves delicious atEllingtonWharfserves Coconut Café dele –adanceinwhichthey www.lonelyplanet.com

(meals F$4-10; tanoa h wind- lunch snor-

dm/tw F$20/75,rF$95) ams.com.fj; dm/rF$20/110) F$550 foranopenwater course. front door. dishes. Oneof Fiji’sfinestbeaches isatthe clude veggie curries,ThaisoupsandFijian Theexcellentmeals(F$45daily)in- search. private doubles. Plansforarestaurant, shop and dorm withprivate ensuite, plusloft-style thisfreshhouse, newlodge hasasix-bed it tricky. dive sites, butthewindyweathercanmake Water tothenorthhaveBligh someamazing (see p175 ) hires outequipment. Ellington WharfAdventure Water Sports www.lonelyplanet.com Ellington Wharf,andeach resort runsits is a 15-minute ridefrom boat Nananu-i-Ra THERE &AWAYGETTING Feejee ( Experience p216 ) when ithitstheisland. withgoodaccommodation. Hometo Well-established .com; campingperpersonF$15,dmF$20,dF$60, fF$120) Nananu Lodge Cottage Morrisons cottages onthehillwithgoodviews. Charlie’s Place goodifpriceymeals. F$16 toF$26)serves room andveranda. Theopen-aircafé(mains are F$6/8perhalf-day. views of themainland.Snorkel gear/kayaks hammocks outthefrontwithuninterrupted dorm, restaurant (mealsF$10toF$20)and the jetty.There’s alsoaspotlessandroomy infrontof nicely landscapedpropertyright yellow cottages are scattered a throughout dm/d F$25/80) orfansafterlights 10pm. credit cards.Powerisbygenerator, sono bank andsomebudget placesdonotaccept ahead astheislandcanget busy.There’s no It’s agoodideatobookaccommodation SLEEPING &EATING eight-bed dormhasitsownkitchen, bath- isfullyfurnished, andthespacious Each cottages are like upmarket caravan cabins. grounds. ClosedNovembertoMay. dm F$25,dF$100)Simplebungalowsonspacious grassy .com) McDonald’s NananuBeachCottages The surroundingreefs andespecially Also available: Betham’s BeachCottages Lodge Safari charges dive F$400forasix-tank and bure Ra Divers Ra Housed inastylishtwo-storey Housed were afootatthetimeof re- ( ( % %

( % ( % 669 4676; dm/d F$20/80) Private 669 4676;dm/dF$20/80)Private 669 4290;www.nananuislandlodge McDonald’s cute blueand 669 3333; www.safarilodge.com; 669 3333;www.safarilodge.com;

669 4516; [email protected]; 669 4516;[email protected]; ( These self-contained self-contained These %

669 4511;www.radivers ( % 669 4132;www.beth

( % 669 4633; 669 4633; Emperor Gold Mining Company Emperor GoldMining permission fromthemanager at groceries tocover costs).Alternatively, seek (bring provisions andgive moneyand/or modation or withalocalfamily a homestay Sabeto Valley, including village visitsand at the base ofat thebase Abaca (pronouncedam-b fax 6645547) full-day hikes of thearea. or local guidestotake you there or onhalf- the Mamanucas and Yasawas. Youcanhire will reward youwithpanoramicviews of summit of Rock(about fourhours) Castle Lodge ( From Nase p178 ), aclimbtothe Hiking ACTIVITIES Abaca visitorcentre waterfalls the andswimming.Contact lands, bird-watching, archaeological sites, nativethrough Dakuaforests andgrass- hike. Thearea hasbeautifulnature walks tional Heritage Park isdefinitely wortha For nature lovers, the Koroyanitu Na- Park Koroyanitu NationalHeritage (three hours return). The air. Hike uptoMtLomalagi forgreat views areabeautiful highland withfresh mountain The forestry of settlement Nadarivatu isa &Navai Nadarivatu HIGHLANDS VITI LEVU return). Arrange yourpick-upinadvance. own transfers (aroundF$20perperson 9001) barely andbestavoided. passable conditions. Theroadfrom Navai toSuvais Tavua operatingduetopoorroad ceased from igated ina 4WD.Localbusservices (30km, 1½hours!) thatshouldbeonlynav- 3km eastof Tavua trip –it’sasteep,rough is atthefootof peak, Fiji’shighest be extremely slippery. the climbisakintorockclimbingandcan be hired foraroundF$10.Thelasthalfof return tohike fromthevillage. Guidescan as MtVictoria. Allowatleastfive hours (Adam andEve’s place;1323m),alsoknown at thegoldmine’sspaciousresthouse. dial 1234;admissionF$5) Mount BatilamuTrek The turn-off forNadarivatuisaboutThe turn-off About 8kmsouthof Nadarivatu,Navai canarrange forcamping,dormaccom- VITI LEVU •• Viti Levu Highlands ••VitiLevu Highlands VITI LEVU organises 2½-daytours up the Mt Koroyanitu

formore information. ( %

( 666 6644, after thebeep666 6644,after % Forestry Office Forestry

( ar % 664 5747,9273592; (MtEvans). th-a) village is 668 0630) Vatukoula’s Vatukoula’s Tomanivi

to stay tostay ( % 177 668 668

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 you meet toescortyouthe chief. you meet arrive independently,ask thefirst person after thebeeps dial2116;dmF$45,bure per personF$55) after vala, this friendlyplaceoffers village trips, On theriver’s edge akilometre southof Na- Hostel Bulou’s Lodge&Backpacker SLEEPING &EATING as itors whopresent a to take pictures. The village welcomesvis- rapher’s dream, youmustaskpermission with localmaterials. Whileit’saphotog- herehouses are alltraditional by farFiji’smostpicturesque village. The On thebanksof River, theBa Navala is pop 800 Navala SIGHTS be disruptive andunappreciated. Sunday isadayof rest, sovillage visitsmay scattered landscape. thefantastic throughout culture insmallvillages andsettlements best placestoexperiencetraditionalFiji an views intheirwake. Thisregion isoneof the terior, leaving thecoastlineandpanoramic snake in- theirwayintothemountainous The grassyslopesof theNausoriHighlands Highlands Nausori gravel roaduptoAbaca (4WDonly). atAbacathen right Rd.It’safurther10kmof RdatTavakubuturn inlandoff Queens Rd, village (F$25/50oneway/return). Ifdriving, [email protected]) tact There are toAbaca nobuses butyoucancon- THERE&AWAYGETTING village stay village highland cultureExperience witha SLEEPING &EATING from mid-April tomid-November. F$360. Tours departTuesdayandThursday hotelstransfers for fromNadi/Lautoka 178 arranged theAbaca through visitorcentre. also take somesupplies. for breakfast/lunch/dinner, butyoushould Meals inthevillage costaroundF$5/7/15 facilities, acold-water shower andatoilet. from thevillage, has12bunkbeds,cooking This oldcoloniallodge, about400muphill Nase Lodge yaqona MAMANUCA GROUP George Prasad George

(per nightinclmealsF$35) ) anddonationof F$15.Ifyou

, whooperates transfers tothe (camp sitesperpersonF$10,dmF$25)

( % 664 5431,9916956;george_pra sevusevu , which can be (agiftsuch

( bure, % 666 6644, built

departing NadiandtheCoralCoast. tures inParadise ( p163 ) offers guidedtours a ritualplatformandcannibaloven. Adven- fortress byhilltribesandhastheremains of upriver from asa Sigatoka, wasonceused The SIGATOKA VALLEY local advicebefore headingout. –seek androcky,butusuallypassable rough next forkintheroadkeep left.Theroadis andatthe left, passing ashoponyourright, atthepolice postturn turns towatch outfor: F$60 forthevehicle. pick youupfromNavala. costabout Carriers Ring Bulou’sLodge inadvanceandtheywill to avoid arrivingatthevillage whenit’sdark. 1½ hours, twicedaily)–catch the12.15pm There toNavala are (F$4, fromBa localbuses THERE&AWAYGETTING in advance. vegetables andlocaldishes. It’sbesttoring include plentyof home-grown fruitand and flushtoiletsbutnoelectricity.Meals thereto thehouse; are cold-water showers inthe10-bedyou canstay dormattached There isatraditional swimming and sunny and baskingina lagoonformed urgent of need tropical therapy.Reliably Mamanucas are amagnet fortravellers in class snorkelling, diving andsurfing–the world- seas, beaches, crystalline White-sand GROUP MAMANUCA Nabukavesi. erably 4WD),take adetourinlandfrom falls. Ifyouhave (pref- yourownwheels ranges, river water- deep canyonsandtall lar scenery,complete withrainforests, steep Pacific Harbour, have Fiji’smost spectacu- The steamy northofNamosi Highlands, HIGHLANDS NAMOSI Navua River area (see p165 ). nic Adventure Fijialsooffer tours into the equipment, fromF$190perperson. withgreattrips totheNamosiHighlands, well-organised river-rafting andkayaking If driving from Ba, thereIf drivingfromBa, are acoupleof Rivers Fiji Rivers Discover FijiTours andWildernessEth- Naihehe cave

( % 345 0147;www.riversfiji.com) bilibili , about anhour’s drive bure (bambooraft)trips. www.lonelyplanet.com inthegarden,or offers offers ὄὄ Mmnc Group Mamanuca www.lonelyplanet.com caters toallbudgets, sowhetheryour taste For longer sojourns thespread of resorts food andrecover beaches. onsunkissed whogorge themselvesLautoka, onbuffet take day-trippers fromnearbyNadi and replica of thebrochure Many tease. atan 20islandspromise land, these gible by theMalolo andthemain- Reef Barrier 4 1 3 2 5 MAMANUCA GROUP ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ (Tom Hanks' Monu Cast Away Vanua Monuriki Levu Island) MAMANUCA I-RA GROUP Matamanoa Supermarket Kadomo S OUTHPACIF Sailing Safari South Seas AC Gotham Yanuya City O CEAN 8 Catamaran YasawaFlyer SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Musket CoveMarina...... (see9) Musket CoveIslandResort.. Inn...... (see13) Mereani's Backpackers Matamanoa IslandResort.. Mana IslandResort...... Mana IslandLodge...... (see13) Malolo IslandResort...... Lomani IslandResort...... Funky FishBeachResort.... Castaway IslandResort...... Bounty IslandResort...... eccme sadRsr. C3 Beachcomber IslandResort.. Awesome Adventures' 7

Airport M 17 ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ

Tavua a

Tokoriki l

o 13 I-CAKE GROUP

l Wadigi MAMANUCA o Divesite

Mana B

3 The W

a Nautanivono Castaway

r (Qalito)

Island r

Catamarans South SeasCruises i

e 14

R 6

Namotu

(Magic Island)

e 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 f B Navula 4 Reef Malolo B4 A3 A3 B4 B4 B4 B4 C3 ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄ Cloudbreak 5 Solevu 12 Treasure IslandResort..... Tokoriki IslandResort...... Tavarua IslandResort...... South SeaIsland...... Resort WaluBeach...... Ratu KiniBackpackers...... Plantation IslandResort... Navini IslandResort...... aouIln eot... B5 Namotu IslandResort...... 10 Navula Passage 16 Airport Passage Wilkes 9 Tavarua Malololailai (Plantation Passage Malolo 11 Island) Navini cas andinter-island transfers. Mostinclude transfers fromDenarau totheMamanu- The following companies operate boat THERE &AWAYGETTING Transport their idyllicwares. is champagne orFijiBitter youcanenjoy Vomo Momi Bay Beachcomber Island (Tai) Tiger IVCatamaran 1 South SeaCruises Landing ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ Uciwai Senilambuli 18 Malolo Cat 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 (229m) MAMANUCA GROUP •• Transport MAMANUCA GROUP••Transport (Elevuka) Treasure Island C3 A2 B5 C3 B4 A3 B4 B3 (Daydream Malamala Island) 2 TRANSPORT EATING Musket CoveTrader...... (see9) Denarau Marina...... Dick's Place...... (see9) Coffee Cove...... (see9) Ananda's Restaurant.....(see12) Nawau 15 Bounty Island (Kadavu) Tivua

Queens Island South Sea 6miles 10km 0 0 Naikorokoro Point Yakuilau Vunamoli Reef Vunaqiliqili

Naisali Rd Denarau ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ Dreketi Inlet Vuda Point Viti Levu 19 Nakubu 19 Reef Nadi Nadi D4 Bay International D Covuli Airport Reef Lomolomo Nadi Viseisei Bekana Cruises' Lagilagi Lautoka Nananu-I-Ra & Catamaran to Beachcomber (Vanua Levu) Bligh Water Koroiyaca Rava Reef ὄ Namaka Savusavu

179

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 outfits. plate corals andnudibranches. known astheCircus,haslotsof clownfish, occasional bronzewhaler. also NorthReef, white andblack-tipreef sharksandthe of 5mto30m,where grey, youcansee isthefamousSupermarket,Reef atadepth after thebatfish.InsideMalolo Barrier ithassoftrier Reef; coralandisnamed intheMalolopinnacles inapassage Bar- psychedelic corals.GothamCityisthree gaudyfishcirclingimpossiblytastically 5725, 5723016;www.fiji.to) basic water activities. clude transfers fromNadi hotels, lunch and are popular andgenerally exceedingly in- Day to theMamanucascruises fromNadi Tours inNadi. based costs F$190/560.See p153 forother outfits dive/PADItwo-tank openwater course numerousislands.A operation servicing ( p156 ) northof Nadi,isawell-respected facefiji.com) Mamanuca Activities Musket Cove Marina onMalololailai. see p153 Yachts fordetails. canbehired at andhelicoptersflights are alsoanoption; Malololailai (adult/child F$75/40).Charter Mana (adult/child F$90/60oneway)and there are passengers) from Nadito enough prices. able tocatamaran arePrices forquick,scenicflights compar- Cruises South Sea I&II Cat Malolo Beachcomber Cruises Awesome Adventures region. courtesy pick-upfromhotels intheNadi 180 (F$30); and Matamanoa, Tokoriki andAmanuca(F$100). Tokoriki (F$30); andMatamanoa, Island Beachcomber (F$55);Bounty(F$50);SouthSea (F$70);Treasure/ and Castaway(F$65oneway);Mana WaluBeach Likuliku, daily catamarantransfers to:Malolo, and Plantation Island Resorts) three timesdaily. and PlantationIslandResorts) F$45/22.50) Fast Cove (Musket catamaranstoMalololailai Beachcomber Islands. fiji.com) The and Treasure Islands. AlsoleavesfromLautoka. transfers toBeachcomber Twice-daily 16/2 half-price/free) oneway/return F$45/77,children under comberfiji.com; Many of theresorts have their owndive MAMANUCA Island GROUP••SouthSea Subsurface Fiji Subsurface , based at the First Landing Resort attheFirst Landing , based Yasawa Flyer diving ( % ( % 666 6215;adult/childoneway ( sails to South Sea, Bountyand sailstoSouthSea, ( sites teem withfan- % 675 0500;www.ssc.com.fj) Six %

has daily flights (if hasdailyflights ( 666 1500;www.beach % 675 0499;www.awesome Sun Air 666 6738;www.subsur

( % 0800 672 carte three-course meal. F$99/50, three hours), includinganàla cruises.com) Mamanuca islandsonahigh-speedcatamaran. Mamanuca daycruisesaroundthe person F$130)Small-group Diving iswith there’s plentyof free water-play equipment. for swimmingandOKsnorkelling, and six-bed familydorms.Thebeach isgood main dormhas32bedsandthere are two forest of beds(mostlybunks)upstairs. The with arestaurant andbardownstairs anda Day trips toBeachcomberIsland. Day trips full-daytouradult/childF$80/40) .beachcomberfiji.com; perpersonF$165) [email protected]; moon andNukuimanaIslands. schooner island champagne aboardthe30m cruise Island Coral Cats Beachcomber Cruises adult/child). Islands(F$99/50 adult/child) andSouthSea (F$115/60 adult/child), Treasure (F$115/60 child), Mana (F$115/60adult/child), Malolo (F$125/85adult/ toCastaway day cruises visit (F$165/90adult/child). There are also three uninhabited islands,includingavillage a pristine marine reserve and spectacular andspectacular a pristine marinereserve lers, Bounty isa20-hectare coralisland with One of thebest optionsforbudget travel- area 0.02sqkm ISLAND BOUNTY .reefsafari.com.fj) for budget travellers andday-trippers. as Aqualandandisa funandfriendlyoption tobeknown islandused This tiny,flat,sandy ISLAND SOUTH SEA has a full-day catamaran and sailing cruise to to cruise andsailing has afull-daycatamaran aboardMV cruise alsooffers dinner Cook cruises astarlight and Yasawas; see p185 Captain fordetails. offer of combinedcruises the Mamanucas South Sea Island. South Sea water courses forF$170/530. meals F$75; adult/childF$95/47.50) 1823; www.captaincook.com.au; Oceanic SchoonerCompany Blue LagoonCruises South Sea Cruises South Sea More options: In themiddleof theisland, See See p179 forinformationongetting to

( % ( and % Whale’s Tale, s 675 0499;www.awesomefiji.com;dmincl 651 3475; [email protected]; per 651 3475;[email protected]; , with two-tank dives/open, withtwo-tank ) is onedouble-storey Captain CookCruises Captain Reef Safari Reef

( City of Nadi %

( ( % % 672 3828,6661500;www stoppingatHoney- 675 0500;www.ssc.com.fj) www.lonelyplanet.com 666 1622;www.bluelagoon

( % ( % (adult/child offers afive- 675 0950;www 672 2455;fun South Sea South Sea

( % bure 670

bers. The colossal dorm bers. The colossal streak of day-trippers alsopepsupthenum- ing forupto250energetic guests;aconstant Bounty Island. is withSubsurfaceFiji(see opposite ). andkayaking,arecanoeing free anddiving activities,includingsnorkelling,motorised ous. Children Non- under12are half-price. are gener-are F$35per person andservings spotless butcanget abithot.Meal packages viewsandhammocks.Thedormsareocean room. They’re supercleanandeach has ily double -bounty.com; dm/d/fF$50/145/240; home totherare Fijicrested iguana. island’s white-sand beach andtheinterior is snorkelling. Hawksbill turtlesnestonthe www.lonelyplanet.com white-sand beach. ered intropicalgardensand ringed bya The coral Treasure iscov- Island(Elevuka) area 0.06sqkm ISLAND TREASURE attracts ayoungcrowd. has areputation forrevelry andgenerally a resort andcircledbyabeautifulbeach. It comber Island(Tai) iscovered entirely by Sitting about20kmoffshore, tiny Beach- area 0.2sqkm ISLAND BEACHCOMBER -treasure.com; d/f F$530/1050; for both honeymooners and families,with set backfromthebeach, rusticduplex set affair. There are alsomodesttwinrooms F$90/195/270; dm/s/dinclmealsfrom www.beachcomberfiji.com; service or South Sea Cruises (see (see Cruises orSouthSea service p179 ). Australian andNZschool holidays. opposite ). Akids’cluboperates duringthe utes). SubsurfaceFiji(see Diving isthrough (F$35) andjet-skiing(F$65per15min- (F$65),wakeboarding(F$35), parasailing guests. Alsoonoffer are water-skiing dancefloorinthebig,livelythe sand bar. includes live musicandfrenetic dancingon fridge andprivate bathroom.Entertainment and sixpremium beachfront See See p179 forinformationongetting to The Treasure IslandResort Treasure The Transfer isbytheresort’s catamaran Snorkelling equipmentisfree forhouse bure, Bounty IslandResort Beachcomber IslandResort bure allwithair-con, fridge andbath- nis and amixof oldandnewfam- ) isapartyplace,cater- ais

( bure %

( % a 666 6999;www.fiji bure is a crowded isacrowded 651 1271;www.fiji

) ) is paradise isparadise ( % has flashy – all with –allwith 666 1500; 666 1500; bure

MAMANUCA GROUP••BeachcomberIsland .com) d F$500-690; exchange. Club In each yearthe September COVEMUSKET MARINA Festivals &Events La Galerie above Musket Cove, akitschy art/giftshop, three resorts, amarinaand,onthehill of theMamanuca Group andencompasses Tranquil Malololailai isthesecond-largest area 2.4sqkm MALOLOLAILAI is justasdelicious. wafer biscuittoppedwiththickpesto,and shore reef, teeny Navini lookslike around Surrounded byawhite-sand beach andoff- area 0.25sqkm NAVINI offer transfersCruises here (see p179 ). is withSubsurfaceFiji(see opposite ). activitiesareNonmotorised free anddiving intheopendiningroom/bar.tainment enter-kids’ club,baby-sitting andnightly bure entire beachfront islandandcomfortable landscaped tropicalgardensthatcover the vini IslandResort 100/600 foradult/child/family. hotels; returnLautoka transfers cost F$200/ face Fiji(see opposite ). fishing tripsare free. DivingiswithSubsur- and kayaking,windsurfingvillage and kids undertwoperday. F$40 fortwo-tofive-year-olds andF$20for for adults,F$55children aged sixto12, plan of fresh andfabulousfoodcostsF$100 a private courtyardandspa. Athree-meal bure ting roomsandthemore spacious‘premier’ one-bedroom Cheapest are thesmallbutcomfortable from 6m to32m. a choice of charter yachts, ranginginsize Themarinaalsooffersday/week/month. anchor atthemarinaforF$10/60/220 per ket Cove to PortVilayacht race. Yachts can There are only10 andBeachcomber Cruises South Sea Guests are picked upfromNadior Snorkelling thebeach isexcellentjustoff

hosts andthe Week FijiRegatta Mus- withhammocks.There’s anexcellent have verandas. Honeymoon ( % 666 2215;fax2633;www.musketcovefiji

i ( % ) , allwithin10mof thebeach. 651 0050) bure

( % . Duplex 666 2188;www.navinifiji.com.fj; bure , withasmallbook intheexquisite Musket Cove Yacht Cove Musket bure have sit- bure have

181 Na-

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 accompanying buffet. only foodavailable ispigon aspitandan 6pm) Thursday is night BBQs. Indian andFijiandishes andweekly international cuisinewithsome ant serves for a two-tank dive/unlimitedfor atwo-tank diving. Diversbowls. Plantation charges F$145/640 windsurfing,paraglidingandlawn canoeing, Bar.a Sunset Activitiesincludesnorkelling, ages are F$40/60.There’s alsoashop and patios.Two-/three-mealwith enclosed pack- Village doubleroomsare andcheerful, bright and big,cleanbathrooms.ThenewPlantation garden modation includesthepopulartwo-bedroom andeatingchips. Accom- just watching TV ing plasterracing…or cows,egg-and-spoon inthepool,paintingT-shirts,the sea, climb- teems withkidsin fun forfamilies,Plantation fast/lunch/dinner) adults andF$45/35forchildren. Dick’s Place(see below ) costF$70/85for kelling are free. Two-/three-meal plansat hand-linefishing andsnor-ing, canoeing, villas boasttheirownspapools.Windsurf- goon andDVDplayers. La- a private pool,TVs ficial island,have over-water verandas and Island villas(F$660),clustered onanarti- self-catering commodation, includinghotel roomsand goon, thisserene resort hasarange of ac- through hismum,Viema,on through ice creams are alsoserved. and garlic bread (F$16).Snacks, coffee and clude achoice of meats, green potatoes salad, BYO. OrderBBQpacksby4.30pm; theyin- IslandResort Cove Musket Sleeping &Eating island’s dive shoporon Wilkes Passages. the himthrough Contact the excellentsurfbreaks atMalolo and Jacob (‘Scobie’) operates boattransfers to SURFING Activities 182 served overlooking alagoonhere,served plusit’s tationisland.com; d/ffromF$250/470; or five peopleare F$40/30/25. perperson forone/two orthree/fourRates covefiji.com; dF$250-540; Coffee Cove Dick’s Place Plantation IslandResort MAMANUCA GROUP••Malolo Good-value, bistro-stylelunches are bure bure are nicelydecorated andresort which feature large lounge areas

( ( Musket Cove resort’s restaur- % bure % 666 2215;mealsF$14-25; 666 2215;mealsF$12.50; . ThenewerArmstrong meke s

( )

% Overlooking ala- Overlooking ( % night, whenthe night, % 666 2215; ais 666 9333;www.plan % 925 8778(or 923 0828). www h h ) .musket Pure break- 10am- Well-stocked generalstore, great foryachties.Well-stocked and anexcellentrestaurant. withclassyaccommodation Intimate, adults-onlyresort island.com; dF$580,stinclbreakfast F$630; Lomani IslandResort www.castawayfiji.com; dfromF$680,fF$1780; dm/dF$30/80,ffromF$120; .funkyfishresort.com; ket, ket, and southernYasawas. offers panoramicviewsof the Mamanucas point, The island’shighest construction), mangroves forest. andcoastal villages, three resorts (withanotherunder The daddyof theMamanuca Grouphastwo MALOLO details. from Nadi.See shuttle service p180 for fers fromDenarau,andSunAirhasa operatesThe Malolo trans- catamaran Cat &Away There Getting Trader Cove Musket Ananda’s Restaurant friendly Denarau. also knownasQalito,is27km westof 70-hectare Reef-fringed, Island,Castaway area 0.7sqkm CASTAWAY ISLAND F$90, rF$450-690; Beach nais interiors are alittle shabby butare being giving them anEnglish-country look.The have white brickwallsandthatched roofs, sort resort willcollectyoufrom p180 ). There are nodirect transfers, but the breaks. DivingiswithSubsurfaceFiji(see good snorkelling andaccesstothebestsurf wines andimpressive food.There’s also goodAustralian a sand-floor barserving has bright dining. h seaplane (see (see seaplane p153 ). orMalolo (see Cruises Cat Sea p180 ), or but hasagreat barandfood. club andhillsiderestaurant. The The simpleandspacious More andeatingoptions: sleeping Appealing tothesurfer/backpacker mar- Transfers toMalolo Islandare withSouth lunch & dinner) Huge menu and alfresco, kid-friendly lunch &dinner)Hugemenuandalfresco, kid-friendly

( Funky Fish BeachResort %

( % 672 4275; www.maloloisland.com; r F$550-1060; 672 4275;www.maloloisland.com;rF$550-1060; Castaway IslandResort Castaway 665 1777; www.walubeach.com; dm incl meals 665 1777;www.walubeach.com;dminclmeals bure ) , which has agoodbeach, kids’ isn withoutdoorshowers and ( ( % ( % % 666 2215; 666 9333;mainsF$20; 666 8212;www.lomani www.lonelyplanet.com ) is slightly generic isslightly

bure ( Uluisolo Malolo IslandRe- Malolo % h

atthefamily- 651 3180;www ( 8am-7pm) % as Resort Walu Walu Resort (218m), (218m), 666 1233; is is ) ) )

fan-cooled est of thebackpacker placeshasbrand-new Safari (see Safari (see above ). Reef and fishingF$30.Divingisthrough boat tripsare free, islandhoppingisF$45 bar. Snorkel hire costsF$10butsnorkelling writing, there wasarestaurant here butno eight-bed ensuite dorm.Atthetimeof p5 ofr transfers. offer p153) andIslandHoppers (see Island Seaplane unlimited dives/open water courses. charges dives/ F$105/690/710 forone-tank Dive Centre Castaway baby-sitting service. F$15, àlacarte dinnerF$42)andkids’club/ fabulous diningterrace (all-daycasualmeals views, pool/bar, open-airpizzabarwithsea gradually renovated. There is aswimming www.lonelyplanet.com from the beach in gardens,sothe resort is Most of theaccommodation here back is set .com; campingperperson F$35,dmF$45,s/dfromF$75/95) thevillage.and walkthrough them, get attheferry off wharf,turnleft, ramshackle newFijianvillage. Toreach The backpacker resorts are intoa sewn themoodhaslongsinceimproved.stands, the resorts, theboundarystill butalthough period of aggressive competitionbetween poor intheeast.Itwaserected duringa dividing thewealthywestfromragged Mana wall, IslandResort,like aminiBerlin arate thethree backpacker resorts fromthe fenceA mannedguardpostandahigh sep- Sleeping &Eating a frenzy lights. underthenight the southbeach pier,where thefishgointo British andIrish backpackers. Checkout three budget resorts, popularwithpartying the northandsouthbeaches, andthere are sort stretches forover 80hectares between views.Upmarkettacular Mana IslandRe- diving andapepperingof hillswithspec- Beautiful Mana hasgoodsnorkelling and MANA water courses costF$170/100/450. dives/night dives/openinspiring. Two-tank sites are uncrowdedandthereefare talks packer resorts. Thedivingandsnorkelling theback- an excellentdive outfitservicing yahoo.com; dm/dinclmealsfromF$60/130) yahoo.com; Ratu Kini Backpackers Kini Ratu South Sea Cruises (see (see Cruises South Sea p180 ), Pacific Mana IslandLodge Mana Safari Reef bure

( % 675 0950;www.reefsafari.com.fj) withbathroomsandan ( %

( % 681 3436;manalodge2@ 672 1959;www.ratukini Thenew- is

Diving is through Reef Safari (see Safari(see Reef Diving isthrough left ). per person, includingsnorkel and lunch). 1070; .com; dinclbreakfast F$340-510,stinclbreakfast F$790- .com) dive/open water course. island just northof Mana. beaches, Matamanoa andhilly isa secluded coconut palmsand fringed bywhite-sand Covered vegetation, indense dotted with MATAMANOA p179). (see Air isthequickest waytoget totheisland butflyingwithSun catamarans, Cruises Sea bySouth (F$80 return). Mana is serviced the resort’s own Guests of Mereani’s Kinicanuse andRatu &Away There Getting F$45/75/95; 6446; www. where themovie hour) andvisitstoMonuriki,theisland plus F$10snorkel hire), kayaking(F$5per include snorkelling trips(F$10perperson, life. includehuge mealsandactivities Rates beach and isthecentre of backpacker night- able beds.Thelively barhere overlooks the The newestroomshave big,comfort- almost indistinguishable fromthevillage. is with water sports.Diving clude allnonmotorised Children free under12stay andrates in- bars, tennis courtsandafree kids’club. F$16, dinnerF$55forfive courses), three a porch. There are tworestaurants (lunch con to fourpeople,anddeluxe ocean-view air- other honeymooners. Garden ing alovely cove, separate shared onlywith moon offers stylishaccommodation.Thehoney- land resorts, thisJapanese ownedcomplex se left). (see Safari snorkelling. Reef Divingisthrough (F$35), aTomHanks picnic(F$50) and fishing trips(F$5),four-island sightseeing dorm inthevillage. Activitiesincludereef- rooms, andthere’s alarge 20-bed mixed shared. Theeight-bed dormhastwodouble which isair-conditioned. Allfacilitiesare bed, asinglebedandfan,apartfromone Mereani’s Backpackers Inn Backpackers Mereani’s Mana IslandResort Mana andcostsF$190/700foratwo-tank nais bure bure Aqua-Trek manaislandbackpackers a are andhave spacious,elevated MAMANUCA GROUP••Mana have avery longdeckoverlook- ) All doubleshave adouble

( Cast Away ) Mana Flyer % Oneof Fiji’slargest is-

670 2413;www.aquatrekdiving ( % 666 1455;www.manafiji .com; dm/s/d incl meals .com; dm/s/dinclmeals

was shot (F$50 wasshot(F$50 ( % transfer boat bure 651 3359,995 sleep up sleep

183

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 meals F$300/450) Aqua-Trek tery village onTavua anddivingiswith 12 are allowed. Nochildren minimumstay. night under plans costF$75/50andthere isathree- with gardenviews.Dailytwo-/three-meal beach, plus13good-value air-con units point withverandas andviewsof alovely ais bure dF$830,villasF$1100; 1999; www.tokoriki.com; minimum one-week stay minimum one-week and surf tripsare includedand there’s a bure two-tank dives/openwatercoursesF$190/700) two-tank Island Resort breaks. toCloudbreakclose surf andRestaurants by beautifulwhite-sand beaches, it’s thesouthern Mamanucas.closes Rimmed edge of theMalolo which Reef en- Barrier This smallcoralislandisatthe southern area 0.12sqkm TAVARUA white-sand beach andaremote feel. cas, thissmallislandhasabeautiful,long Near thenorthernendof theMamanu- TOKORIKI ( F$330-510; ( 184 are alsooptions (see p153 ). www.ssc.com.fj; F$100) carte restaurant. and gourmet,candle-litdinners intheàla terrace onapleasant races. Lunch isserved vate plunge poolsandlarge ter- sandstones the beach and thefive newvillashave pri- comfortable under 12aren’t welcome).Tasteful and catamaran with catamaran including Fiji’sonlybluecoral. nearby andvisitssomepristinelocalsites, an interesting giantclam-farming dive site dive/night dive/open water course. Ithas charges F$190/100/640foratwo-tank % % Activities includeatriptonearbypot- Most guestsarrive viaa The midsized Popular withAmericansurfers, Gorgeous Dive TropexTokoriki Dive Most guestsflytoTokorikiortake a YASAWA GROUP••Dangers&Annoyances 675 0500;www.ssc.com.fj; F$100) 672 3620;www.matamanoa.com; dinclbreakfast alongthebeach. Transfers fromNadi ais

) isoneforthecouples(children ( %

( % bure hasaccommodation insimple Tokoriki IslandResort Tokoriki 670 2413;www.aquatrekdiving.com; 672 3513;www.tavarua.com; s/twincl South Sea Cruises South Sea are justa few steps from . Seaplane orhelicopter . Seaplane ) has20 Matamanoa IslandResort Matamanoa

(www.tokorikidiving.com) . bure South Sea Cruises South Sea catamaran.

on a high onahigh ( % .

675 0500; Tavarua ( % 666

ventures Fiji ventures a 25m catamaran withtoilets, air-cona 25mcatamaran and vance through vance through emerge. here, butfancierdigsare beginningto time’. Backpacker lodges have dominated reptitiously intothetruemeaningof ‘Fiji longerstay thanadaywillnudge yousur- rugged. Technology isanenigmaandany morea littleemptierandlandscapestad lands are granderinstature, theirbeaches across 90kmof 20volcanicis- reef, these vivid snorkelling anddiving.Butdotted dazzling drysunshine, glassylagoonsand Like theMamanucas, the Yasawas enjoy YASAWA GROUP Malibu. Nochildren under12. also popularhere. a surfingresort, gamefishingis although island nexttoTavarua, isfirst andforemost Namotu, atiny(1.5hectares) andpretty area 0.0015sqkm NAMOTU 4551; fax8056836696) The THERE &AROUND GETTING Transport ine radio. boats have life jackets sufficient andamar- quickly. It’sworthchecking beforehand if water andweatherconditionscanchange stretchlong tripisacrossanexposed of cheaper boat transfers totheYasawas. The Some budget resorts offer theirown, Dangers &Annoyances ais Waterways Surf Travel Travel Surf Waterways guestsbookinadvancethrough Generally, sort arranges transfers fromthemainland. with SubsurfaceFiji(see p180 ) andthere- the resort), andWilkes Passage. Divingis (bothexclusivesurfable NamotuLefts to of Fiji’scleanestwaves, andtheconsistently Surf breaks includeSwimmingPool,one thinkyou’remight onthewrongplanet. Fiji. Ifyoudon’tsurf–oratleastfish Island Resort Bookings need tobemadewellinad- Bookings need Steeped in Balinese decorations, inBalinese Steeped Yasawa Flyer, ) bringsalittlebitof Indonesiato ( %

( % 675 0499;www.awesomefiji.com) Tavarua IslandTours 670 6439;www.namotuisland.net; inCalifornia. operated by (www.waterwaystravel.com) www.lonelyplanet.com Awesome Ad-

( % Namotu 805 686 in in , is Ysw Group Yasawa hop www.lonelyplanet.com fee fee charge a minimal(F$5toF$10)transfer fares are aroundF$60.Many resorts also (F$80); andTavewa (F$95).Inter-island orWaya(F$75);Naviti Wayasewa Kuata, in thegroup.Fares fromDenarauinclude islandat 9.15amdailyandstopsbyevery snack barthatdepartsDenarauMarina accommodation separately. for flexibility you’re better booking your off F$300/800 perperson, butifyou’re looking accommodation packages from seven-night turn toDenarau. enables unlimited travel butonlyone re- days)which(F$250/ 370/400seven/14/21 4 1 3 2 Catamaran YasawaFlyer YASAWA GROUP ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ Awesome Adventures alsooffers three-/ Awesome Adventures' to collectguestsfromtheFlyer. Island pers shouldconsidera‘BulaPass’ S OUTHPACIF Wayasewa AC Yalobi 14 Nacilau O CEAN Point Kuata Naukacuvu 18 8 2 (Naboro) Namara 17 Natawa Koromasoli Point ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ (Wayalailai) Wayalevu Waya 12 Narara Nanuya Balavu Soso 10 3 Drawaqa Soso Ethel Reefs 19 Bay 7 White Gunu Rock 4

Talaga Point N

Naviti a

Matacawalevu i

Marou

Oarsman's BayBeach Honeymoon Beach v

Neptunes Somosomo a

Thumb B

a v

ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ a

P Tavewa

Vuake a

s Katasomu Point

g e Yaqeta 15 Wonderland Matayalevu Saunimolilevu Point 9 11 5 20 6 (Turtle Island) Nanuya Levu the Yasawa islands,departingfromLautoka. another companycommencingtransfers to cook.com.au; 15 Narewa Rd, Nadi) cook.com.au; seven-night Mamanucaseven-night and Yasawa cruises ways.com) Tavewa Island(aroundF$300,35minutes). under 15years are heavily discounted. mainland transfers, andrates forchildren erally includeislandandvillage visits and option for visiting theYasawas. Theygen- shipsFloating hotel/cruise are acomfortable CRUISES Tours Nanuya Lai 13 Nacula Turtle Airways Turtle At thetimeof writingthere wasrumourof Captain CookCruises Captain Nacula 16 Nabukeru Vawa ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ Ferry Tuvaka Point has daily seaplanes fromNadito has dailyseaplanes Bonzai Sawa-i-Lau Yasawa 1 12miles 20km 0 0 Muanabuwe Point YASAWA GROUP••Tours Nanuya-i-Ra Muanakuasi

EATING Sunrise LagoonResort...... (see6) Travellers BeachTeaHouse...... White SandyBeach...... Wayalailai EcoHavenResort...... Sunset BeachResort...... Seaspray...... (see 6) Safe LandingResort...... Otto &Fanny's...... Octopus Resort...... Oarsman's BayLodge...... Naqalia EcoAdventure...... Nanuya IslandResort...... Nalova Lodge...... (see13) Nabua Lodge...... (see20) Melbravo...... (see 20) Mantaray IslandResort...... Long BeachBackpackers...... Kuata NaturalResort...... Korovou Eco-TourResort...... Gold CoastResort...... David's Place...... (see15) Coral ViewResort...... Coconut BayResort...... Botaira BeachResort...... Blue StarResort...... (see6) Bayside BudgetResort...... (see2) Adi's Place...... Underwater Cave...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES ( Yawini % Teci Point 672 1888;reservations@turtleair Bukama

ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ ( % Nanuya-i-Yata Yasawa-i-Rara Vulawalu Beach 670 1823;www.captain Has four- and Bligh Water D ὄ ὄ 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

185 C2 B3 A4 A4 C2 B2 A4 C2 A4 B2 B3 B2 A4 B3 C2 B2 B3 B3 A4 C2

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 relaxed, andtravellers rave aboutthem. tripsarethe boatlookssnug,these funand tivities. Thefoodisexcellentand,although person, includingmeals,transfers andac- .com.au) somefiji.com) 27m thatched the Pacific Yasawas SV aboardthetall-ship Natural Resort hoveringyasewa intheforeground, just offshore. on thesouthernendandgreat snorkelling volcanic rockformations,caves, coralcliffs Petite andspectacular hasunusual Kuata KUATA CookCruises Captain SAILING SAFARI ( Australian-operated KAYAKING cruises.com; 183VitogoPde,Lautoka) under15payfromF$350. those dren undertwoyears oldtravel forfree and Chil- F$1260/2640 forthree/seven nights. at meals andactivities(exceptdiving)start Prices perperson, twinshare, includingall with bunkbedsuptodeluxe staterooms. con. Accommodationranges fromcabins swimming pool,bars, lounges andair- onboard the68mMV 186 packers with a20-bed and 10-bed dorm and the luxuryMV aboard GoldClubCruises cabin. Seven-day pertwin-share2480 fortwo/fournights aboard huge motor-yachts fromF$1130/ incl mealsF$45/55/130) from A$1965perperson. Yas awas fromMay to October. Safariscost the through runs nine-daykayakingsafaris F$510/680. twin share, forathree-/four-day tripare lovo deck. Snorkelling, fishing, village visitsand fers, activitiesandfoodare cruise included. undertwoare andthose free.cruise Trans- under 15pay11%to15%dependingonthe F$4950 foratwin-share cabin.Children % Blue LagoonCruises Sitting on a coarse sandy beachSitting onacoarse sandy with Wa- Awesome Adventures YASAWA GROUP••Kuata 02-8901 3287;www.southernseaventures.com) feasts are included.Pricesperperson, Wanna Taki has sailing tripstothesouthern hassailing bure Three-night cruises onboardthe Three-night cruises . Accommodationisinsimple

( ashore, orcanvasbedsbelow % Mystique Princess 666 9020,9334508;camping/dm/d catamaran costF$330per catamaran appeals to unfussy back-

( %

( % Southern Sea Ventures SouthernSea

670 1823;www.captaincook ( 666 1622; % Reef Escape 675 0499;www.awe Offers cruises Offers cruises www start at start Spirit ofSpirit .bluelagoon witha Kuata

camping inclmealsF$35) F$30/40/45, dinclmealsF$110-200) 1377; www.bbr.ca/Wayalailai; camping/dm/sinclmeals yasewa schoolhouse. Divingiswith singles anddoublesintheageing former ocean, woodenbunked dormsand snug boo andthatched Vatuvula’s granite façade. There are bam- budget resort istucked squarely beneath erated entirely byvillagers, thistwo-tiered Wayalailai Eco Haven Resort Resort Wayalailai EcoHaven Sleeping &Eating take inthewholeYasawa Group. hike tothetopisafunscrambleandviews gazing outatvisitors astheyarrive. The inated byVatuvula, avolcanicrockface hasgoodcoralreefs. It’sdom- Wayasewa Also knownasWayalailai(LittleWaya), WAYASEWA Flyer snorkelling. Transfers from the of theislandhasanicebeach andthebest but theemphasisisonfun arearound thegardens.Standards simple traditional ensuite meals F$145-200; camping pertentinclmeals F$90,dminclmealsF$80,d Resort Octopus Sleeping &Eating centre. thetropicalvegetationthrough of its hilly it alsohasagoodnetworkof trailssnaking exquisite ontheeyes.Oneforwalkers, periphery of beaches, longsandy Waya is With rugged hills,beautiful lagoonsanda WAYA to Saturday). one way,about 1½totwohours, Monday in asmallboat(F$60transfers toVitiLevu cost F$5(see p184 Transfers toandfromthe ). Wayalailaioffers &Away There Getting oldest resorts, into theOctopus hasevolved and campers. a quietoptionandgreat forkeen hikers ated bytwo of It’s theclansonWayasewa. campisoper-Wayalailai, thisrudimentary courses F$110/350) Naqalia EcoAdventure cost F$10 (see costF$10(see p184 ).

( % 666 9715; two-tank dives/PADI666 9715;two-tank openwater ns

( . % 666 6337; www.octopusresort.com; 666 6337;www.octopusresort.com; Aroundthecornerfrom ) Although it’sone of Although the bure bure

www.lonelyplanet.com ( % overlooking the tightly arranged tightly Ownedandop- . Theotherside 666 1572,9323446; ( % Yasawa Flyer Dive Trek Wa- Trek Dive 666 9715,672 Yasawa for Adi’s Place 1300; dm/dinclmealsF$45/120) Flyer Transfersyasewa. toandfromthe toWa- you canwalkacrossatidalsandbar Theswimming heretables. islovely and floorandlongcommunal which hasasand tion isallthatched, asisthediningroom bure has abasicfive-bed dormandfive double of beach, thissmallandquietresortcurve meals F$25/35/80) two-tank dive/PADItwo-tank openwater course. cellent dive outfitcharges F$150/480fora isavailableBaby-sitting andtheresort’s ex- snorkelling atmosphere. andasecluded ulous food.Atlowtidethebeach hasgood restaurant dishes upchilled tunesandfab- ing isinlarge domedtents. Theswankybar- in theYasawas (ifnotallof Fiji!)andcamp- with roofless showers. Thedormisthebest ily-sized) are tiledandfancooled,come a chic Shangri-la. Stylish www.lonelyplanet.com Coconut Bay Resort Coconut BayResort Sleeping &Eating HoneymoonBeach. and secluded minute walk)provides accesstothe pretty Fortunately, ashorttrack(around10- bad duetoabankof deadanduglyreef. white-sand beach, buttheswimming is resorts shareBeach aprotected stretch of Korovou, andWhite Sandy CoconutBay site where rays. youcan swimwithmanta volcanic profile andadazzlingsnorkelling of theYasawa islands, Naviti hasarugged One of thelargest (upto380m) andhighest area 33sqkm NAVITI &AROUND one waycostsF$65/35peradult/child. and Nadiinasolid,coveredLautoka boat; pus Resortoperates itsowntransfers from (F$75 perperson each way;see p184 ). Octo- The &Away There Getting dial 6383;dm/dinclmealsF$40/100) Bayside BudgetResort dou resort with roomydormsandspotless dial 6383;dm/dinclmealsF$55/140) Small, budget options: Sunset BeachResort bles in duplex buildings, this spot is ideal bles induplex buildings,this spotisideal budget travellers looking to avoid the Yasawa Flyer withprivate bathroom.Accommoda- are F$10. ( % 665 0573,9926377;camping/dm/dincl comespastYalobi daily Bay ( % (

% ( 666 6644, after the beep dial thebeepdial 666 6644,after % A warm and friendly Awarmandfriendly 666 6644, after thebeep 666 6644,after 666 6644, after thebeep 666 6644,after bure Behind a wide Behind (somefam- Yasawa Two-tank diveF$170. Two-tank 1360; dm/dinclmealsF$55/130)Smallandpersonable. costs F$160/580. dive/PADIA two-tank openwater course catering toguestsonsurroundingislands. water courseF$170/530. dive/open appealingtoayoungercrowd.Two-tank resort incl mealsF$35/55,dF$130-160)Pack-em-in camping/dm beep dial2244;[email protected]; plenty of privacyinspacioustimber beach thickwithpalmtrees. Guestsenjoy resort extends over alongpatch of secluded Korovou Eco-Tour Resort Resort Eco-Tour Korovou caters toallage groups. isaromanticspotforcouplesbutit Botaira The swimmingandsnorkelling are lovely. roofs bathrooms.with high andbright [email protected]) e p189 ). see caves (F$10) andSawa-i-Lau (F$25; Lagoon resortsThese offer boattripstotheBlue Sleeping &Eating sunset. togenic viewsof theYasawas, particularly at to thetopof thecentralcrest pho- affords and lovely snorkelling. Anamblingascent around thebend,forrelief fromthegales ing tradewinds.Head toSavutu Point,just eastern coastbutit’soften plaguedbybuffet- onthesouth- beachpleasant unfurlsitself Yasawa Group’snorthern-mostresorts. A someof This small,lowislandhouses the area 3sqkm TAVEWA are F$80 each waywiththe Boat transfers toallof theabove resorts &Away There Getting SandyBeach White here you’ve foracurrynight hitthejackpot. party hype. Thefoodisexcellentandifyou’re beachfront Mantaray hasaclassywoodendormand on alovely beach withwideoceanviews, eco-bent composttoilets. anduses F$100-150) rayisland.com; camping/dminclmealsF$25/35,d .com; dminclmealsF$70,dfromF$280) se p184). (see Also available: Westside WaterSports IslandResort Mantaray Botaira BeachResort YASAWA GROUP••Naviti&Around Occupying its own wee island Occupyingitsownwee bure isanexcellentdive operation ( . Theresort alsohasan % 666 6644, after thebeepdial 666 6644,after

( ( ( %

% % ( % 666 6644, after the 666 6644,after 666 1462,998862;west 675 0499;www.botaira 664 0520;www.manta Yasawa Flyer This bure 187

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 ways.com) F$35/55, dinclmealsF$130-180) camping/dminclmeals dial 8876;[email protected]; The &Away There Getting 188 F$35/60, dinclmealsF$180) camping/dminclmeals [email protected]; Tavewa costaroundF$300. of activities. ally nonexistent buttheresort offers plenty island. Unfortunately, thebeach isvirtu- new deluxe standard bed dorm,spartan dation. There’s 16- andcomfortable alight andrange ofto itssparkystaff accommo- expanding resort hasasteady buzzthanks stuff ofstuff legend. and accompanyingcakes (F$1.50)are the person costF$50),andtheafternoon tea themealsupheretalk (mealpackages per the jungleandnearbeach. Travellers four people,withonemore in secluded bed dorm.Twoof the bure of palms,thishomyplacehasjustfive Skirting flatgrassygroundswithplenty tion before youarrive. only twosoit’sagoodideamake areserva- and are much more stylish, butthere are sive deluxe andmosquitonets.Themorelights expen- dance of simple pacious grounds,thisresort hasanabun- Turtle Airways Turtle Otto &Fanny’s Otto David’s Place Coral View Resort Coral View n Oarsman’s BayLodge THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE knit Oarsman’sBayLodgedoesthebeach justice. Cleanandcrisp isfantastic.into ahalcyontorporandthesnorkelling The bestnewsisthatthesmall andtight- views tothebottomwellpastwading height. It’senoughtolulleven thestaunchest workaholic A longswatheofpowderysandeases gently intoaglassyceruleansea,offering impossibly clear Nacula vicinity youhead.Bythetime north manucas, buildingtoaswellthefurther very good, particularly onbuffetvery nights. good, particularly Payment bycredit cardonly. here (additionalcompulsorymeal planperadult/childunder16/child undersixF$50/25/11)is andalovelyfairly closebutatmospheric quarters landingwithviews acrossthebay.The food with interconnecting units. Above thecentral,open-airdiningroomis a13-beddorm,whichhas haveof theresort, brighthues,modernbathroomsandprivate verandas. Families are catered for YASAWA GROUP••Nacula Yasawa Flyer withprivate bathroomsanda12- ) Rumoursaboutthefabulousbeachhere begin asamurmursomewhere aroundtheMa- seaplane flights fromNadito flights seaplane bure bure

( % you’ll hearjust-departed guestswaxinglyricalaboutit.The hypeiswellfounded.

thatare thebeston have private bathrooms costs F$95 (see costsF$95(see p184 ) and ( 672 1888;reservations@turtleair bure %

( % ( % 666 6481;dm/dF$45/90) Alsooccupyingca-

withdoublebeds, 672 1820,6652820; ( % 666 6644, after thebeep 666 6644,after bure Thisconstantly 672 2921;[email protected];campingperpersonF$22.50,dm/d/fF$50/140/240; bure sleep upto sleep andswish

meals F$50,dinclwithout/withshowerF$100/150) Lodge Nalova Sleeping &Eating snorkelling. that swimmingand Nacula has spectacular toknow willbeecstatic devotees Beach paths leadingtovillages andsmall coves. the Yasawas islacedwithwell-trodden the interior of thethird-largest islandin Blanketed withrugged hillsandsoft peaks, NACULA dial 6369;dminclmealsF$50,dF$150) .com; campingperpersonF$12,dmF$17-35,dF$125-135) lovely. enjoys inthesmalldiningroom.It ner isserved are enjoyedonyourownporch anddin- simple bathrooms.Breakfast andlunch cum of furniture, wallpapered floors and Nalova hasthree homy by credit cardonly. adult/child) isquite goodandpaymentis (compulsory mealplancostsF$45/21per huge butit’scalmandprivate. Thefood are basicthatched huts.Thebeach isn’t are simpler,andthecheaper Fijian with private dorms bathroom.Standard fan-cooled This neatlittleresort hastimber,tiledand Melbravo meals are resorts withsimpleaccommodationand tea, coffee andcake (allF$1.50). serves in andoutof shack,thisbeachy place awee Safe LandingResort Travellers BeachTeaTravellers House Two slightly shambolicbutspaciousTwo slightly that

( % Nabua Lodge fabulous beach and the staff are fabulousbeach andthestaff bure

( 666 6644, after the beep dial 7472; dm incl thebeepdial7472;dmincl 666 6644,after % bure, andfabulousdeluxe dorms 666 9055;dinclmealsF$195) strungoutoneitherside

( %

( Yasawa Flyer % www.lonelyplanet.com 672 2921;nacula@hotmail bure 666 6644, after the beep thebeep 666 6644,after

(8am-6pm) withamodi- hitsthe Based Teeny and bure .

3032; dm/dinclmealsF$55/90) school campwithslightlysloppyfacilities. ofa dial 9484;dm/dinclmealsF$55/150)Reminiscent at Tavewa Island (aroundF$300to Nadi). resorts charge aF$10transfer fee. NANUYA LAILAI The &Away There Getting www.lonelyplanet.com ( the large on itseastern side. NasomoBay This hilly, volcanic islandisprotected by MATACAWALEVU The &Away There Getting LagoonResort Sunrise Seaspray with lovely s inclmealsF$80-120,dF$90-150)Quietoption Nanuya IslandResort Sleeping &Eating andchoppy.lagoon isdeep on theeastern sideof theisland,where the budget resortsingly lucent.Several reside tected beach the Yasawa Group’slagoons,butthepro- The lagoonisactuallysimilartomanyof yachts whodabbleinitsgorgeous depths. snorkellers, divers, boatsand luxurycruise BlueLagoon Home tothatcelebrated patch of water, the (see (see p184 the ), orF$20tomeet .com; dinclbreakfast F$210-350) fees toandfromthe and hasgoodsnorkelling nearby.Transfer a lovely beach withaprotected lagoon curved Decent dorms. nouveau understated Fijian- airandexquisite vistas. thischic, indulgent resortLagoon, hasan Blue Star Resort Blue StarResort Meals often feature catch of theday. floorssand andanicestretch of beach. Itoffersmasses. simpletimber smallish resort isagoodspottoescapethe dial 9484;dminclmealsF$40,dF$120) Beach Backpackers F$12 to F$25) serves inventive fare.F$12 toF$25)serves gant interiors andtherestaurant (mains % The accommodationandfacilities at Other budget options: Gold CoastResort 672 1888; [email protected]) 672 1888;[email protected]) Yasawa Flyer Yasawa Flyer ( bure % bure , isamagnetfor Nanuya Lailai . Reader-recommended. 666 8962;dm/dinclmealsF$45/95) is have thatched roofs andele- ( lovely andthewater %

costs F$95 (see costsF$95(see p184 ) and ( charges F$95(see p184 ). % 992 5825; [email protected]; 992 5825;[email protected];

( ( ( % % % Yasawa Flyer 666 6644, after the beep dial thebeepdial 666 6644,after are basic,butitsitson 666 7633;www.nanuyafiji 666 6644, after thebeep 666 6644,after 666 6644, after thebeep 666 6644,after Right ontheBlue Right Turtle Airways Turtle bure are F$10 seaplane seaplane is with This ach- Long Long

are nobanks orshops here. of dancing,partiesandgeneral revelry. There strong workethicisreplaced withsixweeks beginning on1December,whenRotuma’s side of theisland. inMaka ment station onthenorthern Bay, permission toanchor fromtheAhaugovern- times anddates. Visitingyachts mustobtain F$130/150, 36hours); callfordeparture Ba Mai Pde, Suva) day andFriday(F$860). Alternatively, theRotuman Island contact ortheirfamily. aRotuman contact through onRotumaisThe easiestway tostay SLEEPING &EATING ( Air Fiji &Away There Getting TRANSPORT is during Hatana andHofliua. Thebesttimetovisit colonies nestontheoffshore islandsof Urea, canic craters risingupto250m,andseabird outpost. Thelandscapeispunctuated byvol- rewarded withtheexperienceof aPolynesian toget whomake here Those theeffort willbe comed asparticipantsratherthanspectators. acy of Tonganinfluence,andvisitors are wel- proud andfriendlypopulationcarriesaleg- tinct inFiji’svastarchipelago. Thefiercely Rotuma isethnicallyandlinguisticallydis- Hovering some450kmnorthof theYasawas, pop 3000/area30sqkm ROTUMA shipscallhere.cruise offer tripstothecaves (F$25)andlocal inscriptions. MostYasawa budget resorts paintingsand ous indecipherable carvings, chamber. Thelimestonewallshave mysteri- an underwater passage intoanadjoining bit of courage, youcanalsoswimthrough natural pool.Withaguide,torch anda water surface), where youcanswiminthe dome-shaped cave (looming15mabove the over time. Shafts of enter thegreat daylight metres belowthesurfaceandthenuplifted are tohave thought formedafew hundred At underwater limestonerocks Sawa-i-Lau, SAWA-I-LAU % 331 4467; Naryan Jetty, Suva) 331 4467;NaryanJetty,

( from Suva to Rotuma (deck/cabin fromSuvatoRotuma(deck/cabin % flies toandfromSuvaonWednes- Fara 331 3666; www.airfiji.com.fj; 185 Victoria 185Victoria 331 3666;www.airfiji.com.fj; , an annual festivities period , anannualfestivities period ROTUMA •• Transport ROTUMA ••Transport operates the Western Shipping Western Cagi 189

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 St) Air Fiji THERE&AROUND GETTING Transport Maymigration between andSeptember. ontheirannualthe eastcoastof Ovalau pod of around10humpbackwhales passes Hawksbill anda turtlesvisittolaytheireggs good snorkelling andsimplebudget resorts. have beaches, andCaqalai sandy Leleuvia literally feels like themiddleof nowhere. which literally means ‘MiddleFiji’,equally long sincedeparted andtodayLomaiviti, first butpoliticalmachinations capital, have andthecountry’s est Europeansettlement vuka, maintown,wasFiji’searli- Ovalau’s Fijian nationwasmade. Picturesque Le- historical significance,forthisiswhere the infectious andlanguidpacethatbeliesits theeast just off hasan coast of VitiLevu, Rustic andpeaceful,thisstringof islands, area 484sqkm LOMAIVITI GROUP OVALAU &THE in NadiorSuva( p147 ). Council viathevisitorinformationcentres 190 town (see town (see opposite ). Lovoni. bikes Mountain can behired in Westpac bank,where carriers departfor on foot.There opposite the stand isataxi Tuesday). (F$55,dailyexcept tinue bybustoLabasa Nabouwalu onVanua andthencon- Levu, ontheboatatNatovito stay to andsail p215 for more Youcanalsoopt details. to SuvaviaNatovi (F$24, fourhours); see given plentyof notice. ers. Mojito’s willprovide mealsonrequest, forgovernmentgenerally reserved work- ple roomswithshared facilities,buttheyare request. costsaboutF$25. Ataxi orfromyourhotelside theAirFijioffice on (F$5 perperson) willpickyouupfromout- totheairport Minibuses drive fromLevuka. (F$65). Theairstrip isabout a40-minute SuvaandOvalau between has dailyflights has a bus/ferry/bus service from Levuka fromLevuka hasabus/ferry/bus service South of Ovalau, thetinycoralislandsofSouth of Ovalau, Mojito’s Barfly Levuka istinyandeasy toget around Levuka Patterson BrothersShipping Patterson OVALAU &THELOMAIVITI GROUP••Levuka

( % 344 0139;fax0252;BeachSt,Levuka)

( % 889 1144;Motusa)

( % 344 0125;Beach hassim-

access. officeandInternet shop, informationcentre, tourbooking Beach St; first find thestoneshell of theSouthPacific’s and the Club Ovalau Levuka’s for includethe atmosphericdisplays. through Levuka ing, ifchaotically of organised, glimpse old Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat) Mon-Fri, andLomaiviti’sonlyATM.Visa orMasterCard Westpac informationcentre Visitor Post office Police station Watersports Ovalau Hospital Levuka Colonial NationalBank Information absent. matic charm andracialtensions are virtually eccentric expatenhancesthetown’senig- Fijians, part-EuropeanFijiansandtheodd of indigenous Fijians,Indo-Fijians, Chinese undeniably Fijian.Thediverse population thetownaregreen thatcontain mountains an oldwestern movie. andlush Butthesea litter thestreets propsfrom like preserved andstorespast –timberpoolhalls,offices – in theSouthPacific. Remnantsof itscolonial isoneof themostpicturesque Levuka towns pop 3750 LEVUKA Fiji Museum itsrestoredBehind façadeisabranch of the strom independence in1970. ty’s Government duringthetransitionto HQ here whenhe represented Her Majes- covered instraw.PrinceCharlesmadehis cial Bure signed in1874.Acrosstheroad Site Cession About 10minutes’ walksouth of town is Sights andhelpfulstaff.Centre hasfriendly Information Tourist 8am-1pmSat)TheOvalau Mon-Fri, HedstromBldg; Centre, Morris only Romanesque building. Itwasburntto Other buildingstokeep aneyeout Downtown stands theformer Downtown stands tradingstore (1868),thefirst inFiji. Masonic Lodge Masonic h (BeachSt)Foreign exchange,cashadvanceson sitslike of aloaf wholemealbread former (BeachSt)Cardphoneoutside. original 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pmSat)Dive 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, , where the Deed of Cession was , where of theDeed Cession

(1904),Fiji’sfirst private club; (admission F$2; ( % (

% town hall 344 0222;TotogaLane) Sacred Heart Church Heart Sacred

( , which offers afascinat- police station 344 0221;BeachSt) % (1875) and Levuka’s (BeachSt)Foreign exchange. 344 0166;www.owlfiji.com; h ( www.lonelyplanet.com h % (1898).You’llalso 8am-1pm &2-4.30pm 8am-1pm &2-4.30pm 330 0356;Community (1874);the Morris Hed- Morris (1858); Provin- Levuka www.lonelyplanet.com out nottobethecase. HQ inScotland.Surprisingly,this turned thecentrethrough of theworldtoMasonic from beneaththelodge totheRoyalHotel, andthattunnelsledleague withthedevil ists hadlongalleged thatMasons were in on bytheirchurch leaders. LocalMethod- a huskinthe2000coupbyvillagers egged one of Fiji’soldest churches. ist Church coral andstoneGothic-style view. Thesimple climbing forthefantastic game of hunt-the-Royal-Hotel-staff. oldsnookerthe fantastic room,andplay a Fiji’s oldesthotel, rebuilt in1903.Checkout 4 1 3 2 LEVUKA ὈὈ ὈὈ

The

On Langham St,the On Langham Spowart Rd

Waterhouse Rd Waterhouse Bath

Totoga 199 Steps of Mission Hill ofMission 199 Steps (1864)nearthefootof thesteps is AC

Mission Hill Levuka

Creek Garner Jones Garner Methodist Church Creek Nasau

Park Church Holy Redeemer 22 & Cemetery Ὀ Church ofthe 7 15 8

Rd Levuka Langham St Langham Village 10

12 St

Royal Hotel Totoga La Totoga 3 Vakaviti Provincial Bure(500m); 9 11

Hennings St Hennings Chapel St Cession Site(500m);

To Nasova(500m); Hill Rd King St King 1 Airport (17km) 13 18 Navoka Method- Navoka

Bentley's 16

14 20 La St Beach

are worth Beach St Beach 6 (1860s)is B 23 21 Bishops' Tomb(5km); To OvalauHoliday Rukuruku (16km) Cawaci (5km); Resort (3km); 5 2 OVALAU &THELOMAIVITI GROUP••Levuka 4 Bishops’ Tomb bishops restCatholic inthe Gothic-style and Shark in theMoturikiChannel, Reef There’s stunningsoft coralatSnake Island hammerheads, turtles andreef sharks. waters offer encounters rays, withmanta per half/fullday. Watersports ( opposite bikesMountain ), costingF$10/15 are available fromOvalau after whichabout Cawaki, it gets very hilly. south isfairlyflat,andthenorth OKuntil and itssurroundingarea. Theroadtothe Cycling Activities In Excellent Excellent K ORSEA Queens Wharf Cawaci 400m 0.2miles 0 0 isagoodwaytoexplore Levuka , northof town,Fiji’sfirst two (1922). diving omrTw al...... A3 Former TownHall...... Patterson BrothersShipping...... Air Fiji...... Ovalau Club...... Levuka Club...... Whale's Tale...... Kim's PaakKumLoong...... Emily's Café...... Coffee intheDiveShop...... (see2) Royal Hotel...... Mary's HolidayLodge...... Levuka Homestay...... Gun RockCottage...... Sacred HeartChurch...... Old PoliceStation...... Navoka MethodistChurch...... Masonic LodgeRuins...... Gun Rock...... Former MorrisHedstromBldg...... (see5) Fiji Museum...... (see5) 199 StepsofMissionHill...... Westpac Bank...... Visitor InformationCentre...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Ovalau Watersports...... Levuka Hospital...... Colonial NationalBank...... (see6) TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION sites intheLomaiviti D 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

B3 B4 A3 B2 B4 B4 B3 B3 B3 A2 B1 B3 A3 B2 A3 B1 A2 B4 B4 B4 B3 B4 B2 191

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 dm/s/d/tr F$10/18/28/35,cottagesF$80; for babies. Thereeggs. chair isahigh andacothere muesli, toast,bananapancakes, bacon and breakfast of includes deliciousdoses fruit, Thenever-ending levels. rooms onseparate tremendouslyand fourbig,bright, clean service views fromthedeck,fantastic withgreatneocolonial-style house sea Levuka Homestay Levuka Sleeping hotmail.com; perpersonF$35,minimum4; Epi’s Midland Tour Tours trips forF$150/460/40. dives/open water courses/reef snorkelling Watersportssage. offers Ovalau two-tank and excellenthardcoralatWaitovu Pas- 192 includes a including lunch). (F$50perperson, orCaqalai to Leleuvia Watersports ( Ovalau Book through p190 ). thenswiminWaituvuwaterfall.tations, pineforestsRock, through andkava plan- person. Travellers hike tothe peakof Gun nect.com.fj) nect.com.fj) .com; ChurchSt;s/dinclbreakfast F$120/140) in thefront garden. kitchen facilities,and air-con cottages are Dorms are with inacolonial-style house ter thanothers; trytoget a sea-view room. mosphere. Somerooms(andbeds)are bet- private verandas andauniquecolonial at- and aninstitution,withgreat viewsfrom Fiji’s oldestpubisaproudtimber building Hotel river. the Youcanalsobookthrough cludes lunch inthevillage andadipinthe Thetourin- the storytelling isfantastic. local carrier,thesceneryisstunningand Transport isacombinationof trekking and village inthecrater of anextinctvolcano. 10.30-11.30am Mon-Sat) tain what the tour encompasses thatday. whatthetourencompasses tain out,ascer- youset 4pm onTuesday.Before sports ( p190 ) ortheRoyalHotel before Water-minimum of six).BookatOvalau nut andpandanusleaves (F$30perperson, make yourownhandicraftitem fromcoco- Royal Hotel The Wednesday-onlySilanaVillage Tour Ovalau Watersports alsooffersOvalau daytrips Ovalau HolidayResort Ovalau OVALAU &THELOMAIVITI GROUP••Levuka

( % runs aWaituvuTourforF$15per 344 0024;www.royallevuka.com) meke,

( %

( % ( %

344 0024; www.royallevuka.com; 344 0024;www.royallevuka.com; lovo takes youtoLovoni 344 0777; 602 1103,9236011;epitours@

andthechance to ( % 344 0329;ohrfiji@con www .levukahomestay ais . Alovely h departs departs Royal )

the restaurant inthemorning. isclosed atbreakfast timeas breakfast isnotserved themed surrounds.Curiously,theall-day inmaritime- burgerspasta, andfish,served sonable wineandabove-par versions of tasteful rea- diningexperienceencompasses dinner F$17; h hotel. old incl breakfast F$15/20/35)Rudimentarybutfriendly you 35cents! Delivery isfree, butthepizza box willcost to local hotels. a bicycledelivery service offering pizzasand crispy,not-too-cheesy the surprisinglyprofessional Pizza, Ovalau hotbreadary Chinese it’s shop.Bynight, an ordinarygreasy caféfronted byanordin- Ovalau HolidayResort Ovalau Eating &Drinking HolidayLodge Mary’s F$15/28; campingperpersonF$10,dmF$12,s/dfrom nect.com.fj; Levuka (F$2bytaxi). Levuka well-maintainedcottage. About1.6kmfrom one-bedroom, fast, lunch&dinnerMon-Sat,Sun) Gun RockCottage costs F$5. kitchens andhotwater. fromLevuka Ataxi cabins, which comewithprivate facilities, bungalowsorfamily-friendlycomfortable road. Accommodationisinacluster of beachand asmallwhite-sand acrossthe scaped gardens,afabrestaurant (see below ) to ringaheadwarnthemyou’re coming. beagoodidea –itmight you are inLevuka come localcuisine. Tryitatleastoncewhen and Western dishesthathaveChinese be- adelicioushybridof Indo-Fijian, ant serves wiches or,er,acoffee atthedive shop. Watersports. Dropin forsand- at Ovalau Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat) Mon-Fri, the bestoptionintownonSundaynight. and care. (F$13.50)is Thebig,eclectic buffet Fijian-stylefish,tasty allcooked withflair dishes,very hotThaicurriesand Chinese by. Kim’seclecticmenuincludesstandard somnambulantdriftgo and watch Levuka’s h Kim’s Paak KumLoong Kim’s Whale’s Tale HolidayResort Ovalau Coffee in the Dive Shop Coffee intheDive Also available: Emily’s Café lunch &dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) s h ) Thisrelaxing resort hasland- lunch &dinnerMon-Sat)

( ( Pullupachair onthebalcony % % ( % 344 0235; snacks F$5-9, three-course 344 0235;snacksF$5-9,three-course A Fijian-run café upstairs A Fijian-runcafé upstairs 344 0382;mealsF$1-7; ( 344 0166;dF$65)Fan-cooled %

( %

(snacks F$3.50;

Thisresort restaur-

344 0013;BeachSt;dm/s/d ( www.lonelyplanet.com ( % % 344 0329;mealsF$7-13; 344 0329;ohrfiji@con 344 0059; mains F$8; 344 0059;mainsF$8; Levuka’s most Levuka’s By day,it’s h h 9am-5pm 9am-5pm break- Levuka Club Levuka beer. views. Ovalau Club Ovalau www.lonelyplanet.com person inclmealsF$35/45) per personwith/withoutmealsF$25/12,dm/bure per ( baby turtles. dolphinsand If you’re lucky, youmaysee are fringed withpalmsandotherlarge trees. island’s beautifulwhite-sand beaches, which get. It’sonlya15-minute walkaroundthe to thebestabackpackerclose islandcan The gorgeous coralislandof comes Caqalai CAQALAI St. on Beach atthenumerousgeneral storesthing else St.Youcanget mostevery- front onBeach fresh fruitandvegetables alongthewater- On Thursday localvillagers cometosell Watersports ( p190 ). One-wayboattransfers transport andaccommodationfromOvalau (F$10). Leleuvia on thebeach. There tripto is aonce-a-week dancing andkava drinkingbesideabonfire therethe activityboard.Atnight, issinging, alsofill Island andSundaychurch services village tripstotinyHoneymoon visits,boat here) better foreven snorkelling. Diving, snakesblack-and-white found bandedsea out toSnake Island(namedafter themany welcoming. Atlowtideit’spossibletowalk are enormously andthestaff spectacular scrumptious, snorkelling fromtheshore is food isdelicious,thewhite-sandbeach is cold showers inshared bathrooms,butthe butyou’recourse, welcometoBYO).Ithas % Pleasant drinkingholes: Pleasant The Methodist-run If you’re coming from Levuka, bookIf you’re comingfromLevuka, into terrified hysterics. suit. Onetouristwho refused offhisbaseballcapwhenwevisited totake sentaFijian woman to believe thestory,avoid offending and upsettingyourhosts–respect theirbeliefs andfollow capable ofdolingout nastypunishmentstothosewhoupset them.Whetherornotyouchoose their hatsandsunglassestalkinhushed, reverent tonesasitisbelieved thatthespiritsare woven matsare whispered aroundLevuka. Whenpassing over this villagewheresunken ancestral spiritscontinuetoreside. newly Storiesoffishermenhooking Passage, abreak inthereef. ManyindigenousFijians believe thatbeneaththesewaters liesa travel yourboatwilllikely throughQavoIf youheadouttotheislandssouth fromOvalau, WHAT LIESBENEATH 343 0366;www.owlfiji.com/caqalai.htm;camping (Garner Jones Rd) Atmospheric spotfora JonesRd)Atmospheric (Garner (BeachSt)Beergardenwithseaandtown isrustic(anddry,of Caqalai IslandResort Caqalai

OVALAU &THELOMAIVITI GROUP••Caqalai Book through Ovalau Watersports ( Ovalau Book through p190 ). costsF$20each way(onehour). Levuka utes bybus fromSuva),andto Korovou township,which isabout90min- each way (theboatrideisonehourfrom and hotsnorkelling fromthebeach. iscoldfromtherestaurant Thebeer sand. and lunch ontheislandanddinner so thefoodisdecent.Gueststake breakfast themanager, isaqualifiedpastrychefLena, side, butthere are somepretty unkempt andfacilitiesare onthesloppy fiji.com/leleuvia.htm; sinclmealsF$45-60) colonial hillside fortification and ‘cannibal colonial hillsidefortificationand‘cannibal a fringingcoralreef, theremains of apre- beaches,Naigani haswhite-sand lagoons, Also knownasMystery Island,mountainous area 1.5sqkm NAIGANI OK snorkelling andgreat diving. thewesternto swimoff sideortodosome It’salsopossible and tidalpoolsisexposed. the island,whenavastarea of rock sand, beaches. Lowtideisagoodtimetoexplore palm-fringed coralislandwithgolden-sand Just southof sits Caqalai another Leleuvia, area 0.17sqkm LELEUVIA for thefaint-hearted inchoppy conditions. andnot hour) canbeawhite-knuckle affair warned,theboatride(F$30,one 2pm. Be shack atthenorthernendof thebridge at boat leaves fromthewooden forCaqalai atWaidaliceBridge.drop youoff Adaily to Korovou (F$3.30)andaskthedriver to person return. andF$30forasame-day cost F$20perperson inagroup,F$30forone Boat transfers toandfromSuvaare F$30 The From Suva,catch themiddayexpress bus Leleuvia IslandResort tabu site, Fijians remove

( % 330 1584; feels alittle bure www and

193 .owl

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 F$3190/4570; www.moodysnamenafiji.com; 5nightsinclmealss/d just sixtimber-and-bamboo 16 years aren’t welcome. Transfers are includedandchildren under Diving here isexcellent. (F$85 pertank) ing, fishing,snorkelling andreef excursions. ested ridge. Free activities includewindsurf- The nearby Rainbow Reef has someof Reef the The nearby Rainbow unspoiled countrysideand soothingresorts. diving andsnorkelling, welcomingvillages, sonality allof its own,accented bysuperb The ‘mainland’s’ littlesiblinghasaper- pop 139,514/area5587sqkm VANUA LEVU beaches. green onNamenalala turtleslaytheireggs From November toFebruary, hawksbill and red-footed boobiesandagiantclamfarm. and ishometoseabirds, a nature reserve lages disappeared longago. Theislandhas and anold coast of Vanua Ithaslovely Levu. beaches 25kmoff thesoutheastern Reef, Barrier Volcanic Namenalala rests ontheNamena area 0.4sqkm NAMENALALA rF$120-180; .naiganiresort.com; friendly walk fromtheunpretentious, family- should steerclearoutof respect. by maraudingtribes.Theyare caves’, where 1800villagers were slaughtered 194 and great is Saturdaynight food;every shabbycabin-style cious ifslightly for F$40oneway. Watersports ( p190 ) canarrange transfers fromTaviyaand ataxi costsF$20.Ovalau Taviya village, nearRukurukuonOvalau, ing. Returntransfers from costthesame F$50/25 toandfromSuva,viaNatovi Land- is alwaysavailable atF$4.50anhour. tralasian school holidays,andbaby-sitting A free kids’clubisavailable duringAus- recommendedalso highly forsnorkellers. is offshore. ThedaytriptoPicnicBeach andthereenough isgoodsnorkelling just beach Thewhite-sand herenight. ispretty The exclusive Naigani’s village isabout10minutes’ Return transfers peradult/child are VANUA ••Transport LEVU Naigani IslandResort h ring fortification ring closed March andApril) closed March Moody’s Namena s

) ( . Itoffers spa- % , butthevil- bure tabu

330 0925;www resort has ( % onafor- and you andyou 881 3764; 881 3764; bure lovo

1am onWednesdayandFriday. F$25/45, five hours), departingSavusavu at Savusavu andTaveuni (economy/first class on Saturday.Theboatalsotravels between on Tuesday,noonThursday and6pm F$45/65, 11hours), departingSuvaat10am Suva andSavusavu (economy/first class ates the500-passenger 4496 St from the Lautoka office at 4am on Friday office at4amon Friday from the Lautoka depart (fourhours). Buses bus tripto Labasa Nabouwalu (3¾ hours) andthenanother hours), connecting withthe (3½ toEllingtonWharfon VitiLevu Lautoka cabin/seat F$90/55). cabin/seat hoursanother eight toTaveuni (fromSuva Wednesday andFridayitcontinuesfor F$80/50,12hours).day (cabin/seat On Monday andFriday,noononWednes- fromSuvatoSavusavusails at6pmon Air Fiji THERE&AWAYGETTING Transport healthy balanceof tourismandtradition. ous pace. Whatthisspellsfortravellers isa and resorts tobeemerging atafuri- seem frantic propertyboomandrestaurants, clubs contrast,Savusavustark isinthemidstof a viewsoftions andfantastic theocean.In brimming withrainforests, coconutplanta- Fijian andhometogorgeous landscapes the southeastispredominantly indigenous tually untouristed. Favoured byyachties, The northandwestof theisland are vir- offers awindowintotraditionalFijianlife. ages toexudeafeeling of remoteness and and easilyaccessible, Vanua man- Levu baysaremany deep forkayaking. fantastic best dive sites intheSouthPacific, andthe Ground fl,DominionHouseArcade,ThomsonSt,Suva) % Arcade,NinaSt; fax 3301652;Suites1&2,Epworth Air (F$190/230) andSavusavu (F$160/220). fromSuvaandNaditoLabasa daily flights Taveuni (F$115). Savusavu between and also hasdailyflights from NaditoSavusavu (F$230).SunAir (F$210/230)and from Suva/NaditoLabasa ; Levuka

Patterson BrothersShipping Patterson Beachcomber Cruises Although it’sFiji’ssecond-largest Although island Consort Shipping Consort 881 2444; Nasekula Rd 881 2444;Nasekula ; ( % Savusavu

( %

885 0141; Copra Shed Marina, Savusavu) 885 0141;CopraShedMarina, % 885 0173; Copra Shed Marina, Savusavu) 885 0173;CopraShedMarina, 344 0125;BeachSt)

% 885 0266;

; ( Lautoka %

( Lautoka Adi Savusavu Taveuni www.lonelyplanet.com 330 2877;fax3389; operates a bus from operates abusfrom

% % ( Ashika Suva 666 1173; 15 Tukani 666 1173;15Tukani 666 1500; fax 666 666 1500;fax 888 0036)

% between between ferry to ferry to 331 5644; 331 5644; oper- flies Labasa has Sun

West ofthemarinas. Wednesday, Friday,SaturdayandSunday. (F$45)on service Nabouwalu–Labasa ers alsooperates abus/ferry Suva–Natovi– Sunday andWednesday.Patterson Broth- at6amon and Monday,fromLabasa www.lonelyplanet.com ( Fiji’s first copramills,the Dating backto 1880 andoriginally one of Sights HealthCentre ClinicPrivate Siloah Savusavu Internet Post office Police Pharmacist Hospital/Ambulance Customs Cruising&Internet Curly cash advancesonmajor credit cards. ATMs, andgive foreign exchange services have branches inthemainstreet. Allhave ANZ, ColonialNationalandWestpacbanks Information volcanic activityand numbers are outgrowingmoorings. tinue toarrive inincreasing numbers and the burgeoning population,yachties con- has welcomedthemvibrantly.Aside from expats are puttingdownrootsandthetown lively bars andwell-stocked shops.Scores of street isnowflush withgoodrestaurants, have apropertyboomandthemain brought The viewshaven’t changed butrecent years range.across thebaytowestern mountain by outclassed town, easily centre wasasmallanddustypeninsular Not longago,Vanua second-largest Levu’s pop 4970 SAVUSAVU 8.45am fromtheKorean Wharf. (F$20),departingat Savusavu andLabasa runs adailybus/boattripfromTaveuni to main road. h Next door to the Siloah Clinic. doorto theSiloah Next information centre, tourofficeandInternetaccess. Nasekula Rd; Nasekula them –they’re literally boiling. thinkaboutbathingin ing field.Don’teven bubble nearthewharfandbehindplay- % Grace Ferry agreatSavusavu oncesaw of Bay deal 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Behind SuilvenShippingonthe 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) 885 0457;fax 8850989;[email protected]) ( % ( % AttheeasternendoftownnearBucaBayRd. 885 0222) (

h Savusavu 885 0727;

( Labasa 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSun) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, ( % ( Country Kitchen; CountryKitchen;

Gulam Nabi&Sons; % h 885 3250;WestpacBldg) hot springs ( 885 0444) 8am-1pm, 2-4pm Mon-Fri) 8am-1pm, 2-4pmMon-Fri) % 885 0122)Yachting its fabulous Copra Shed Marina ( % continueto % % 885 0721; 927 1372) 881 1152; views

modation isinensuite air-con cabins. sometimes swimalongsidetheboat. Accom- anddolphinswhales par forthecourse, ling, kayaking,trekking, fishing anddivingare mote islandssuch asKioaandKoro. Snorkel- Vanuabetween Taveuni Levu, andmore re- tai.com; 5nightss/dfromF$2630/3450) gear), PADI openwatercourseF$1000. ( Cousteau Resort p198 divesF$250(without ). Two-tank BasedattheJean-Michel [email protected]) 0344; Naveria HeightsLodge Naveria chanting andslappingthewater. so red they lookcooked tothesurfaceby locals calltheunusualprawnswhich are per adult/child) toNaweniVillage, where cluding theRedPrawnTour(F$55/22.50 bikes (F$15/25perhour/day). (from F$15/55perhour/day)andmountain to duration).Theshopalsorents kayaks and kayakingtours (pricesvaryaccording riety of individually tailored village, hiking F$210/130, PADI openwatercourseF$750. dives Has adiveshoponthejetty.Two-tank/night and crew. Per personfromF$250. fiji.com) Day cruisesaboarda16m yacht withcaptain,cook SeaHawk YachtSeaHawk Charters Eco Divers-Tours Tours Cousteau Jean-Michel L’Aventure KoroSun Dive companies have goodreputations: the coasttowardsTaveuni. Thefollowing around Savusavu aswell Bay, as along Savusavu hasexcellentdive sites inand DIVING Activities F$7/150 foraday/monthinlowseason. season, F$10/220 foraday/monthinhigh Savusavubetween andNawiIsletcost display. Mooringsinthepretty harbour ofbevy facilitiesaswellasmallhistoric al a for touristsandexpats.Itencompasses hub rebuilthas been intoSavusavu’s service Copra ShedMarina) biking (F$45-75) and hiking (F$35-65)tours. (F$45-75) andhiking biking [email protected]) andhalf-daymountain- club. MooringscostF$10. stored boatshedwithshowers andaprivate More tours: Tui Tai Cruises Adventure Trip nTour Trip Close byis Close h closed Sunday) (

% ( % VANUA ••Savusavu LEVU Waitui Marina ( Offers arange of tours, in- % 885 2452;www.korosundive.com) 885 3154; [email protected]; 885 3154;[email protected]; based inabeautifulre- based 885 0122) ( ( % % 851 0157; 885 0787;www.seahawk

( %

( Advertises ava- Fantastic cruises Fantastic cruises % ( 885 3032;www.tui % 885 0536;fax 885 0188;

195

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 ὄὄ

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Vna Levu Vanua connect.com.fj; Lesiaceva Rd;s/dF$40/50) connect.com.fj; Bayside Backpacker Cottage Bayside Backpacker BUDGET Sleeping 196 it’s F$3 by taxi intotown. it’s F$3bytaxi bikes; theirmountain otherwise, you use tide. ThefriendlyBowersful athigh will let the pebblebeach acrosstheroadiswonder- andDVD.Snorkelling at kitchen andaTV gain. There are twosinglebeds,adecent Bower’s home,3kmfromtown, is abar- bure incl breakfast fromF$25/50; and breeze-cooled withshared kitchen, cheapest doubles inFiji.Rooms are basic clean andfriendly hotel with someof the 4 1 3 2 VANUA LEVU Hidden Paradise GuestHouse Hidden VANUA ••Savusavu LEVU Yadua Tabu inthegroundsof travel agent Eddie SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Yau Kolo...... Vaivai andDavui...... Lomalagi Resort...... Levukalailai...... Koro SunResort...... Resort...... Jean-Michel CousteauFijiIslands Hans' Place...... (see2) Daku Resort...... (see2) Bayside BackpackerCottage...... Naag MandirTemple...... Bligh Water Yadua ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ A Navunievu Rukuruku Viti Levu(Ellington Bay To E6(DiveSite); Wharf, 65km) Mt Seseleke (421m) Yaqaga a ( Bua Bay % ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ) Elenoakeeps a Nabouwalu 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 885 3154;tripntour@

Bua ( E3 D3 E3 F3 E3 D3 D3 E2 % Galoa This granny Nabouwalu Bay Reef Vatoa 885 0106;s/d B Mt Navatovotu

Rd Galoa (Natovi Landing,

G Nasawana To VitiLevu

r 75km)

Sawani–Daria Rd a ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ

t Solevu Point Nadogo Sawani Nasarowanqa

S through theCopraShedMarina. Fully Inquiries furnishedhousewithhotwaterandSkyTV. and abeergarden. s/d F$20/30)Lush campgroundwithtwofurnishedtents Hwy; tentsitesF$12perperson,on-siteincl breakfast Vaivai & Davui & Vaivai MIDRANGE HolidayHouse Vatukaluvi Yau Kolo is full. chamber Elenoarents else outifeverything room hasair-con. Avoid thewindowless bathrooms andcold-water showers. One Nov-Apr/May-Oct F$1150/1320 perweek; Nov-Apr/May-Oct F$1320/1495perweek, Davui .fj; Vaivai Nov-Apr/May-Oct Wainunu Bay

e Also recommended:

a S OUTHPACIFEN Vanua Levu Daria

Cogea R Navidamu

( % e C

Dawara e

ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ f 885 3089; [email protected]; Hibiscus Hibiscus 885 3089;[email protected]; Mt Kasi Nukubati

Namalata Namenalala ( %

Wai Batiri Macuata-i-Wai l

885 3154;[email protected] evu Valeni

West Kia ( www.lonelyplanet.com Wonderland % Natovatu Alice in

Point Coast Transinsular Rd Transinsular

885 0561;rF$80) Tabia ὄ ὄὄὄ Naduri Seaqaqa

Natuvu Rd

– Savusavu Viti Levu Natua To Suva;

Ko Bay D r Tabia

a o vuli Mt Delaikoro Biaugunu ) (940m) These 3 7 Savusavu

Savusavu Rd

Airport 2

Airport Labasa Mali Savusavu ὄὄ ὄὄ

www.lonelyplanet.com Call for pick-up. Call in-between. and everyone couch potatoes biking.Caters tofitnessfreaks,mountain healthy foodand excellenthikingand able views,freshly baked bread, fabulously sage therapist, thislovely hasunbeat- house Owned byafitnessinstructorand amas- Pde;rinclbreakfast F$140; Naveria connect.com.fj; offers snorkelling. fantastic Fisher &Paykel whitegoods, andthereef a telescope. Thekitchen isequippedwith two, withalushgarden,babycotandeven six, Vaivai isthelarger andthepickof the views over Savusavu Withroomfor Bay. homes have huge decksandextraordinary two grandtwo-bedroom, two-bathroom Rd Malau Nakoroutari Rainforest Korovatu ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ Naveria HeightsLodge Naveria Reserve Waisali Labasa 8 ain Beach

(Nasorolevu, W iko G

1111m) ro Batini Korolevu r Rd 4 e 1 a (Mt Thurston, Salt LakeRd t E K ORSEA 1030m) Diveka Vanua Levu

6 S Wainikoro Bay Navakaravi e Lake Salt Lagalaga

Tutu a Koronatoga Natewa Rd ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ

Korotasere Bay Naweni West Rd R Druadrua Drekeniwai Nakelikoso

Hibiscus e Natewa Bay ( Nubu

% e Navukebuli

5 f Hwy T

851 0157; u Yanuavou Vunilagi

n Saqani u Nubu l o a –Vitina Rd F Harbour Sese

Fawn ( Bagasu

justnaveria@ N a Natewa ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ t ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ Vunivai

Natuvu e w a ) n

P Naboutini Vuna Buca Reef Nawi Rainbow

e Wainigadru

) n Reef i n Dakuniba s u l a taxi toandfromtown. taxi meals are available onrequest. It’sF$4by cottage. They’re perfect forcouples.Local tive hardwoodsandYaka isaone-bedroom Yasiyasifrom thesea. isastudiobuiltof na- arecottages nestledinlushgardens250m pretty, Point,these self-contained Lesiaceva Lesiaceva Rd;s/dinclbreakfast fromF$95/130; accommodation. withsweepingsea viewsandarangeof Quiet resort day/week F$100/500) Rd;Yasiyasisiaceva studioday/weekF$80/400,Yaka cottage Daku Resort Daku .fj; rF$165 Copra ShedMarina S Devo o Kubulau m Point More midrange options: Hans’ Place Karoko 20miles 0 0 o Napuka s ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ o m Kioa o Des VoeuxPeak

; S n t r

a G (1195m) i t Waiyevo a Somosomo ( %

( ) Taveuni VANUA ••Savusavu LEVU % Two luxury units with good marina views. Two luxuryunitswithgood marina Udu Point 885 0046; www.dakuresort.com; 885 0046;www.dakuresort.com; ( Matei % Just3kmoutof townon Airport Matei 885 0621;www.fiji-holiday.com;Le- Rabi 885 0457; ὄ ὄ Channel Rabi See TaveuniMap(p201) coprashed@connect. Qamea Matagi Yavu H Tovuka Laucaia is Cobia Yanuca Ringgold Channel 40 km

197

com 4 1 3 2 )

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 back F$50. you andfilletmignondinnerwillset tail devoured inupmarket surrounds.Alobster fabulous…surf andturfdishes,which are at Cousteau’s resort, thechef here cooksup taxi toandfromtown. taxi forfamilies.It’sF$5by Excellent attached. good asyouwouldexpectwith kids’ club.Thesnorkelling anddivingare as gourmet meals(included)andafabulous beautiful boutiqueresort withlavish .com; Hibiscus Hwy;s/dinclmealsF$500/620; .com; Hibiscus Surf &Turf Surf Eating Fiji IslandsResort Cousteau Jean-Michel TOP END Hotel Hot Springs 198 rotis, but everything is tasty andfresh istasty rotis, buteverything in baked withfried rotisandthequesadillas & dinner) dfromF$920; 0188; www.fijiresort.com; and fromSavusavu costaboutF$12. and get wrappedinabananaleaf.Taxis to spa, where youcanmake like aFijianmeal bikes, kids’programmeandarainforest nis courts,anine-holegolfcourse, kayaks, town, thispretty resort hasplush Facing a beautifullagoon13kmeastof dinner) .com.fj; rinclbreakfast fromF$80; old hotelwithharbourviewsandamajesticdeck. Mo’s Burgers Koro SunResort night highly recommended fortheWednesday arecials (lunch/dinner F$10/17). Bookings catered forhere andthere are dailyspe- what’s onoffer. Vegetarians are alsowell and curriesgive youagoodindicationof delicate savoury crepes andexcellentsalads ern styles. Fresh seafood,creative pastas, describes afusionoftraditionalandWest- as modorNouveau-Fijian, which isaptifit Snappy wordsmithsmightdescribethe fare atthisprogressivetive cuisineserved café. views are asuitablesidedishtotheinven- i h Bula Re Café THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE VANUA ••Savusavu LEVU Welltrainedbytheculinarymaster ) breakfast, lunch&dinnerMon-Sat,Sun; The outdoortableswithsweepingbay Thefajitas here are madewith lovo

( (F$15). %

( 851 0966;mealsF$8-20; %

( ( % %

( % 885 3231;snacksF$6-9; 885 0377;mealsF$6.50-15; 885 0195;hotsprings@connect 885 0262;www.korosunresort as ) Atmospheric ) Atmospheric that is bure, h

h as ( name % lunch & bure, ten- lunch ) A 885 )

& dinner) h Tako Handicraft daily specials. smoothies. There are alsolarge andcheap fresh-fruit anddelectable and sandwiches, dishes upfillingbreakfasts, burgers tasty onthemainstreetbig, opendeckright watch theworldgobyonasunnyday,this bar iswellstocked. phere andthe isfriendlyandcomfortable nautical.Theatmos- interior issuitably trees, yachts andanislandbeach, andthe boasts classicSouthPacific viewsof palm Waitui Marina Drinking fish andchips, andchicken andchips. home. As wellasburgers, Mo’soffers pizza, Tex-Mexthis mutant jointsovery farfrom Vanua Levu. p194 andferry forflight informationfor to or fromSavusavutaxi only costs F$2.See sooften, passtheairport every buses buta Savusavu airstrip is3kmsouth of town.Local &Around There Getting D Solanki Shopping Marina) Mon-Sat, 6am-1pmSun) clothes. traditionalFijiandresssells andWestern lined tailored atabargain saris price. Italso for beautifullymade, double-stitched and handicrafts bylocalartists. jewellery,sculptures,sell postcards and veggies anda market, adailymarket fruitand selling it foryou. or meatonthebarbie,have thechef do youcanchuck yourownseafood at night areand salads upforgrabsatlunch and poolside atthisresort. Sandwiches, steaks 6.30pm. the localexpats;happyhouris5.30pmto at thewaterside isagood waytomeet tables friendly pubfeel aboutit.Downingabitter thisclubhasa butotherwise day nights, Daku Resort Daku Savusavu Yacht Club Decked OutCafé Decked Art Gallery Art Savusavu hasaMorrisHedstrom Super- breakfast, lunch&dinner) Itcanget alittlerowdyonSatur- Spend the F$3 taxi fare SpendtheF$3taxi todine ( %

( 885 0025)

% ( ( %

% Hot Bread Kitchen Hot Bread ( % 885 3054; Copra Shed Marina) 885 3054;CopraShedMarina) 885 0536) 885 0334;mealsF$7-15; forfresh bread.

885 3956;CopraShedMarina) ( %

Head tothisdrapers ( % www.lonelyplanet.com 885 2929;mainsF$6.50; Afineplaceto Thebalconybar 885 0685;CopraShed

( h h 6am-8pm lunch and

a inscribed onlarge boulders; besure tobring side Dakuniba,mysterious be rewarded withdazzlingviews.Justout- agent for ( BulaReCafé a tinysedan. opposite ) isan and F$120fora4WD. ataboutF$100adayforsedan prices start south, ring For confirmationof inthe bustimetables 6amand5pm. except onSunday)between Point (70c,15minutes, fivesiaceva daily daily. sula, departat10.30am,1pmand2.30pm 4½ hours), atthetipof theTunuloaPenin- departing at9am(F$11.50,sixhours). alongNatewa Bay,Savusavu toLabasa take thelonger,buses scenic route from daily) departfrom7.30amto3.30pm.Some www.lonelyplanet.com lage of you’ll headupover tothevil- themountain species list. listedsadly ontheworld’sendangered- of thehabitat therarethrough bird, silktail turnsnorth(left) thehighway At BucaBay toLabasa. the north(left)skirtsNatewa Bay theturn-offto cus Hwyturnssouth(right); along thisroute. out. Thereset are norestaurants orshops driving, double-check thetyres before you becomes extremely slipperywithrain;if homesteads andwaving villagers. Theroad old copraplantations, Hibiscus Hwypasses watching and hiking.Thebumpy,rough from yourresort, italsooffers great bird- you canarrange aguideinSavusavu or an excellentarea toexplore by4WD.If The lushandscenic Tunuloa Peninsula is PENINSULATUNULOA .com.fj; CopraShed) through through of thebest inVanua pristine white sand, suite rooms.Thebeach isa5.5km stretch coloured Australianwoods, withfouren- beautiful central lodge, madeof exquisitely s Hwy;dF$210-250; Hibiscus [email protected]; sevusevu The lovely new There are fromSavusavu buses toLe- fromSavusavuBuses toNapuca(F$6.30, (F$6,three hours, five toLabasa Buses If you turn south (right) atBucaBay, If youturnsouth(right) About 20kmeastof Savusavu, theHibis- Carpenters Rental Cars canbebooked Cars Carpenters Rental ) isaresort-in-the-making. Itwillhave a Dakuniba Trip nTour Trip Budget Rent aCar Budget Rent forthevillage chief. Vishnu Holdings Vishnu ; prices start atF$55adayfor ; pricesstart . Thegoingisslowbutyou’ll

( % Levukalailai Levukalailai 885 3154;tripntour@connect

(

% ( % petroglyphs 885 0377) 885 0276) ( % 888 0888; , where . are welcome butno‘mobile’children under12. areage skinnydipping.Babies midnight It’s perhaps theonly resort inFijitoencour- and decks,butsomeof thedécorisabitnaff. Pacific. Villasare spaciouswithbigkit chens thelargest Bay, deep-water bayintheSouth for andistheonlyresort of atthebase Latevo Salt Lak 1444; Butinikama-Siberia Rd) 1444; Butinikama-Siberia .fj; Rosawa St; rF$80-130; Grand Eastern Hotel Grand Eastern Sleeping two smallertemples ontheway. the turningforWainikoroRd;you’ll pass you’re driving,thetemple is10kmfrom the temple; costsabout F$10.If ataxi threerock clockwise orfive times. beforeyour shoes entering andcirclethe timesover several raised theyears. Remove grows insizeandthattheroof hashadtobe swearthattherock coconut milk.Devotees withofferings ofbeseeched fruit,fire and garlands,therockis ful flowerandtinsel tostrike.a cobrapoised Covered incolour- formationresembles rock’s naturalcurved red Cobra Rock.About the 3minheight, Temple NaagMandir paintedBrightly red, yellowandblue, COBRA ROCK Sights ( street. Inanemergency, the contact Rd,themaincan befoundonNasekula lot tooffer tourists.Mostshops andservices and administrative centre, have itdoesn’t a waft fromcountlesstrinket stores. andsari inantly Indo-Fijian,andBollywoodtunes trains abound.Thepopulationispredom- town, andcrushed canehusksandsugar meandering isasugar River, Labasa Labasa range, about5kminlandonthebanksof the northwestern sideof theisland’smountain in Vanua largest town.Sittingonthe Levu’s The airisthickwiththesmellof molasses pop 24,095 LABASA &AROUND isrunonsolarpower.Levukalailai Fishingandsnorkelling areLevu. great and upmarket colonial hotel hasapleasant % Lomalagi Resort Lomalagi Buses from Labasa to Natewa Bay pass toNatewa Bay fromLabasa Buses isabustlingtrade, service While Labasa 881 1222;NadawaSt) VANUA ••Tunuloa LEVU Peninsula e Rd;dinclmealsF$750;

( ( % isbuiltaroundthesac- % orthe as 851 0585; www.lomalagi.com; 851 0585;www.lomalagi.com; . 881 1022;[email protected] s ) ) has views to die has viewstodie Labasa’s most Labasa’s hospital

( % police 199 881

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Travel Service office). Travel Service meals F$7; near the bus station. near the bus station. daily (F$8,Monday toSaturday). toNabouwalu departthree timesBuses six hours) toSavusavu along Natewa Bay. A 9ambustakes thescenicroute (F$11.50, 7amand4.15pm, four onSunday). tween and Savusavu (F$6, five timesdailybe- and ferry toandfromLabasa. details costsF$8.See from Labasa p194 forflight schedule onSunday).Ataxi as perflight (55c, fourtimesdailyMondaytoSaturday, catchsouthwest of theWaiqelebus Labasa; style dishes. Great Hotel Eastern ( p199 Western- ) serves sonable. Well-stocked bar. upmarketfeels slightly thepricesare rea- interior, it andalthough Chinese-Fijian tions. Nocapsorvests are allowedinthe dishesandafew Chinese Fijianop- tasty mostatmosphericrestaurantbasa’s serves F$50; fax 8814337;NadawaSt;dmF$15,sF$30,dF$45,stfrom For flights headtotheoffice ofFor flights &Around There Getting Bar&Restaurant Oriental Eating deluxe roomsfortheactualriver frontage. it’s worthpayingtheextrafornewer have smallporches withviewsof theriver; atmosphere andadecentrestaurant. Rooms 200 snacks 30c,mealsF$4-7; 1999; Vakamaisuasua) Rd) 1188; Nasekula Rosawa St) rotis. of curry,dahl,chutney andrice ortwo The F$4dealisadelicious,healthycombo andsweets. thalis,samosas fantastic serves This Hare Krishnavegetarian restaurant proprietor. is peaceful,relaxed andhasavery friendly five-minute walknorthof town, thisplace A inLabasa. the bestplaceforacoldbeer anda overlook theriver, andit’sprobably equipped kitchen. Thehotel’s barandver- and thefive-bed dormhasaclean,well- Taxis are plentiful,withthemainstand There are Labasa regular between buses Govinda Restaurant Govinda Labasa Riverview Private Hotel Private Labasa Riverview Grand Eastern Hotel Restaurant Hotel Grand Eastern TAVEUNI ••Transport a ) Theatmosphericrestaurant atthe Roomsare cosyandcomfortable h lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,Sun) or Theairportisabout 11km issouth of town. Sun Air h

Budget Rent aCar Budget Rent ( %

breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( %

( 881 1364; Nasekula Rd; 881 1364;Nasekula % 881 7321;JaduramSt; 881 1454; Northern 881 1454;Northern Air Fiji

( ( % % 881 1367; 881 1022;

( ( % % La- 881 881

Naqara; economy/first classF$45/65) agriculture. the island’smainincomecomesfrom and expats.There are nobigtownsand Fijian withasmallercrowdof Indo-Fijians withanumbrella.tackled Itrainshere! here todosobut theexercise shouldbe from thebeaten trackwillfindopportunity lovely toabscond seeking swimming.Those andMateibut Lavena and haswhite sand beaches skirtingtheperimeter,black-sand summit.Avolcanicpasthaslefthighest Uluigalau (1241m),thecountry’ssecond- Peak (1195m)andthe cloud-shrouded Mt peaks reside here, includingDesVoeux and nature lovers. Someof Fiji’shighest island isahaven fordivers, bushwalkers Kaleidoscopic above andbeneath,thissmall TAVEUNI ( ist accommodation. andthere’swithout aninvitation notour- for theirwoven crafts.Youcannotarrive and thevillagers are Fiji knownthroughout village iscolourfulandimmaculately kept, population pressure onVaitupu. Theone Kioain1947toreducemunity purchased island of Vaitupu inTuvalu.Thecom- nesians originallyfromthetinycoralreef The islandof Kioa is inhabited byPoly- KIOA Both stunning, revealing gorgeous reefs beneath. between Flights Taveuni are andVitiLevu THERE&AWAYGETTING Transport F$80/50) fl, DominionHouseArcade, ThomsonSt,Suva;cabin/seat north. part fromtheKorean Wharf,abitfurther towardsNaqara. Smallerboatsde- yevo, and including Savusavu (F$100). and SunAirfliestwicedailyto from flies twicedailytoandfromSuva(F$200) daily toandfromNadi(F$280).AirFijialso Fiji % The populationismainlyindigenous Consort Shipping Consort The Government Wharf forlarge vessels,

( 885 3032;www.tuitai.com) % Adi Savusavu, Sun Air 888 0062; Matei airport) 888 0062;Matei and Spirit ofSpirit FreeEnterprise

Beachcomber Cruises ( % 888 0461; Matei airport) 888 0461;Matei

( % isabout1kmfromWai- Tui Tai Cruises Adventure 330 2877; fax 330 3389; Ground 330 2877;fax3389; Ground www.lonelyplanet.com visits Kioa. flyatleasttwice sail three sail times a

( % (SOFE) and 888 0036; Air

ὄὄὄ departs 8.45am) fromthe Korean Wharf. (F$20, bus/boat triptoSavusavu and Labasa www.lonelyplanet.com Grace Ferry F$90/55). hourseight (fromSuvacabin/seat class F$25/45)and thetripwithConsorttakes takes five hours Beachcomber (economy/first on toTaveuni onWednesdayandFriday. fromSuvatoSavusavuweek (12hours) and Taveuni Savusavu Ferry to 4 1 3 2 5 TAVEUNI

ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ

Vanua R Levu

The Zoo Namoli Beach a Buca Bay

Tavoro WaterfallsVisitorInformation Garden StatePricePoint...... (see1) SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Chottu's Motel...... Bibi's Hideaway...... Beverly BeachCamping...... Waitavala WaterSlide...... Wairiki CatholicMission...... Vunibokoi Divers...... (see28) Swiss FijiDivers...... (see9) Shiri LaxmiNarayanMandir...... Mosque...... Dolphin BayDivers...... (see13) Aqua-Trek...... (see 16) Centre...... Ross Handicrafts...... (see15) Post Office...... (see15) Police Station...... (see2) Police Station...... Hospital...... Colonial NationalBank......

b o

Dakuniba w Vuna Point Vuna Reef

Nawi R (

% e The Farm Great WhiteWall

f South Cape 888 0320;Naqara) Kanacea 29 13 Vatudamu Kioa Vuna Point

25 S ὄ ὈὈὈ ὄ ὄὈὈὈ ὄὈὈὈ ὄ Yellow

o Grotto 14 m

Naqarawalu o

s 40 Naqara

Navakawau o Naqara m 19 o S t

Mt Uluigalau r 100m 0 0

a 31 i 38 Wairiki 11 10 t (1241m) 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 15 Korolevu runsadaily Ravilevu 16 B1 C3 C3 B2 B2 B1 B1 C2 B1 B2 B1 Reserve Nature 6 7 Salialevu Des VoeuxPeak Waiyevo B 3 EATING Bhula Bhai&Sons...... Vatuwiri FarmResort...... Tovu Resort...... Taveuni Palms...... Taveuni IslandResort...... Susie's PlantationResort...... Qamea Resort&Spa...... Matei Pointe...... Matangi IslandResort...... Little DolphinTreehouse...... Lavena Lodge...... Kool's Accommodation...... Karin's Garden...... Garden ofEden...... Garden IslandResort...... First LightInn...... House...... Dolphin BayDiver'sRetreat...... Dolphin BayDiversTaveuniGuest D3 Coconut GroveBeachfrontCottages.. Naqara 39 (1195m) Tagimaucia 2 Lovonivonu Niusawa ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ 36 11 Coastal Walk Lake 0.1 miles Wainibau See NaqaraEnlargement 8 32 Falls Waterfall Savulevu Lavena Somosomo Yavonu Nanuku Passage 1 Bouma National 5 Heritage Park Ravilevu Coast Waterfalls Lavena F$18 to Waiyevo, F$40 to Susie’s Plantation F$40toSusie’s Plantation F$18 toWaiyevo, the day. it’sfarcheaperhowever, torent for ataxi Youcanrentbuses. 4WDs inNaqara; planning duetothelengthof timebetween aroundTaveuniGetting involves abitof AROUND GETTING Tavoro See MateiEnlargement From Matei airport expecttopayabout Qeleni 12miles 20km 0 0 4 ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄ Charles Matei Prince Navakacoa Beach 0 0 Lavena Point Matei 20 34 Naselesele Bouma Thurston Taveuni Point Beverly 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 Beach Viubani Vidawa Waitabu D3 A3 D4 C3 C3 A3 C2 C3 D1 D3 C2 B1 C3 C3 B2 B2 A3 A2 9 26 Matei Tasman Strait Naselesele 18 27 TRANSPORT Sun Air...... (see37) Korean Wharf...... (see39) Grace Ferry...... Government Wharf...... Bus Terminal...... Budget RentaCar...... (see1) Beachcomber Cruises...... (see15) Air Fiji...... Wathi-po-ee Restaurant...... (see15) Vunibokoi Restaurant...... (see28) Vegetable Stall...... Sonal ShoppingCentre...... Milk Bar...... (see1) Makuluva Restaurant...... (see15) Lal's CurryPlace...... Kumar's Restaurant...... Kaba's Supermarket...... Garden IslandResortRestaurant....(see16) Coconut GroveRestaurant...... (see12) etuatTaot...... C3 Restaurant Tramonto...... Point TAVEUNI ••Transport 10 24 Airport 23 Matei 37 1 mile 17 ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ 2 km Qamea 33 35 12 21 22 Kocoma Honeymoon 28 Dreketi Island Matagi Naselesele 30 D Airport Viubani Laucala 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31

201

A1 B2 B1 C3 B1 D3 D3 B1 B1

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 day. There isonlyonebusonSunday.From 9am, 11.30amand4.45pmMondaytoSatur- Wairiki at6.45am. to andonefromLavena Wairiki toLavena Sunday there isonebusat3.30pmfrom goasfarLavena.Thursday On allbuses outat5.45am.OnTuesdayand ing starts whereLavena, thefirst busof each morn- and 4.20pm.Thelastbuscontinuesto from WairikitoBoumaat8.30am,11.30am for F$125toF$185perday. three small islandsimmediately offshore offshore islandresorts. SouthernTaveuni,Waiyevo, Matei andthe northerly windsfromtheequator. and February due toplanktonbloomsand Water clarityisreducedReef. inJanuary the Great White Wall,theZooandVuna Reef, the infamous32km-longRainbow in November, pilot whales.Sites include coraland,fish, sharks,turtles,fantastic The Somosomo Straitreveals agazillion Taveuni isworld-renowned amongdivers. DIVING &SNORKELLING Activities Nand Lal tour theislandshouldcostunderF$120;try foradayto ahead onSunday.Hiringataxi areas tobook Waiyevo –itmaybe wise Taxis are readily available intheMatei and Taxi aCar Budget Rent Car during school term times. day toSaturday,withadditionalservices Matei, runtoWairikiat11.30amMon- buses board, justtomake sure there isone. to double-check return bustimeswhenyou suremay showupanhourearlyorlate. Be Taveuni’s busschedule isvery lax,andbuses Bus transfers forguests. Mostupmarketin ataxi. resorts provide Resort andF$50toVuna(about onehour) 202 .com.fj; Garden State Price Point;Naqara) StatePrice .com.fj; Garden but youmustarrange thisbefore yougo. Lavena youcangobybusandreturn bytaxi, From Naqara, buses runtoNavakawau at From Naqara,buses There isplentyforsnorkellers, too. The There are numerousdive operations in Pacific Transport TAVEUNI Somosomo&Around ••Waiyevo,

( % 888 0705)

( %

. Fordestinationssuch as ( % 888 0291;gardenstate@connect 888 0278) runsbuses has4WDs Light InninWaiyevo. Foreign exchangebutnocashadvancesandATM. access. beautiful oldhilltopmission. Wairiki village, withageneral store anda links. Another2kmsouthof is Waiyevo andmore policestation the hospital, ferry a longdustywalkawayis with Waiyevo, rideorand transportlinks.Ashort taxi couple of gloomysupermarkets, thebank the largest downtown,which constitutes a runs directly intoNaqara,thevillage with ters foritschiefly leadership. Somosomo largest village ontheislandandheadquar- Somosomoisthe and canbeagoodbase. island, thisarea hasthemajority of services While notthemostpicturesque partof the SOMOSOMO&AROUND WAIYEVO, Bouma NationalHeritage Park (see p206 ). ommend theVidawarainforest hike inthe honeyeater. Avid bird-watchers alsorec- flame doves, theFijigoshawkandwattled forparrots,fantails, keep youreyespeeled Walk( AlongtheLavena Coastal tail. p206 ), therarechance tosee orange dove andsilk- Peakbe found.TryDesVoeux atdawnfora watching, withover 100speciesof birdsto Taveuni isoneof Fiji’sbestlocationsfor bird- BIRD-WATCHING Beach. orBeverly happily atPrinceCharlesBeach ‘Honeymoon Island’).Youcanalsosnorkel snorkelling (thethirdisknownasthe local Point inMateifrom Naselesele have good ficially doglegsFiji, the theInternationalAlthough Date Lineof- Sights &Activities Swiss Fiji Divers Ross Handicrafts Post office Police Supermarket Kaba’s Hospital Colonial NationalBank may acceptcredit cardsforafee. The larger supermarkets andtop-end resorts Information station inNaqara. cash advancesoncredit cardswith5%commission. minute walksouth of Waiyevo. Ared survey Taveuni, through cuts straight abouta10- ( % ( % 888 0222; Waiyevo) There isalsoapolice 888 0222;Waiyevo) ( % 888 0444;Waiyevo) 888 0027; Waiyevo) Beneath theFirst888 0027;Waiyevo) ( ( % % ( 888 0586; Matei) Internetaccess. 888 0586;Matei) 330 9872; Waiyevo) Internet 330 9872;Waiyevo) % ( % 888 0088; Naqara) Offers 888 0088;Naqara)Offers www.lonelyplanet.com 888 0433;Naqara) 180-degree meridian 180-degree

550/660. dives/opentank water courses forF$165/ well-equipped dive shop withtwo-/six- isaGarden IslandResortinWaiyevo Kool’s was undergoing renovations at the there’s aninfoboardonthefieldabove. beacon marksthespotalongwater and www.lonelyplanet.com .com.fj; Naqara; dm/s/dF$15/25/35; Kool’s Accommodation Sleeping belts outintremendous song. 11am; thecongregation sitsonthefloorand attending Mass onSundayat7am,9amor defeat theirTonganattackers. It’sworth Taveuni’s warriors astrategy develop to missionaryhelped tle inwhich aCatholic bytery, there’s apainting of afamousbat- reputedly French glass.Inthepres- stained terior hasanimpressive beamceilingand over theSomosomoStrait.Itsbeautifulin- workers. times possibletohitch aridewithpublic it’ssome- Mission.Onweekdays Catholic take theinlandtrackjustbefore Wairiki and atleasttwotoreturn. FromWaiyevo, andarduous6kmascent to walkthesteep Group.Allowthree tofourhoursthe Lau Tagimaucia Lake to see andperhaps even Peak anyone, askpermission. sign. Thisisprivate propertysoifyoupass a‘waterfall’ go leftdownahill.You’llsee the branch intheroad,passashed andthen at atthebusstop,take anotherright right take thefirsthead northfromWaiyevo, go downbefore youattempt it.Toget there, rain,itcanbedangerous;been watch alocal as youflydowntherockchutes. Ifthere’s for thebrave. ortwoisunavoidable Abruise round trip. hours ably aguide,andalloweight forthe and askpermission.Take lunch, andprefer- topresentyou need thechief witha fromSomosomowhereand muddy,starting ber tolate December. Thehike isovergrown lake’s shores andbloomsfromlate Septem- flower, therare some 823mabove Fiji’snational level. sea Tagimaucia Grand Wiaaa ae Slide Water Waitavala In the mountains aboveIn themountains Somosomo, On acleardaytheviewsfrom Aqua-Trek Taveuni (1195m)are –it’spossible fantastic rests inanoldvolcaniccrater Wairiki Catholic Mission Catholic Wairiki tagimaucia,

(www.aquatrek.com) ( % isanaturalslideonly 888 0395;kools@connect growsonthe i looksout ) Cheerful Des Voeux sevusevu atthe Lake Lake

TAVEUNI Somosomo&Around ••Waiyevo, F$25/35/55) .com; dm/s/d/trF$40/166/210/250; snacks F$4; mealsF$15-35; Waiyevo; phone). Order dinnerbefore 4pm(inperson orby but there’s arestaurant around theback. like afresh fishshed–andinfactitis, per person. free. Under16sstay Transfers toandfromtheairportare F$40 current clearof andsteer Korean Wharf). can swimhere tide(butwatch the athigh beyond.There isnobeach,Levu butyou look outtotheSomosomoStraitandVanua views.Thepoolandrestaurant-barsea area able, butoffers cleanandcomfyroomswith only resort inthearea isratherunremark- .fj; Waiyevo; rwithfan/air-conF$55/60; .fj; Waiyevo; Garden Island Resort Restaurant IslandResort Garden Eating Kool’s library. orborrowvideos from watch satellite TV cooled hotel roomsare ensuite andyoucan cialising inIndo-Fijianfood.Private, fan- (F$8/10/12 breakfast/lunch/dinner) spe- time of writing,andadding arestaurant kitchen. rooms share acold-water bathroomanda andhotshowers. Thecheapest satellite TV big deluxe roomswithkitchens, telephones, the resort. stocked, butonlyfordiners orguestsof there’s live localmusic.Thebariswell of thepoolandgarden,in evening Tables eatery have atthispleasant aview fast &lunchSat-Sun) meals F$3-5; a beer. spotforout the back, andit’sa pleasant are scattered beneathacorrugated roof food forlunch anddinner. Afew tables breakfasts,sausage andoilySino-Fijian omelette and for theFirst Innserves Light Saturday andSundayafternoons. and in the evenings ofto bedevoid staff a kitchen Theplacetends for guests’ use. rooms andsatellite TV. alsohas First Light clean andfriendlyhotel withensuite tobeathemehere –thisisanother seems Wathi-po-ee Restaurant Restaurant Wathi-po-ee Chottu’s Motel First LightInn Makuluva Restaurant Makuluva Garden IslandResort Garden h Basic andbudget, Basic Chottu’shas h 8am-4pm Sun-Fri) breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, break-breakfast, lunch&dinnerMon-Fri,

( ( % Thedefactorestaurant % 888 0339;[email protected] h 888 0233;Naqara;s/d/trfrom

( %

breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % ( 888 0286;www.aquatrek % Thisplacelooks 994 5394;Waiyevo; ais 888 0382;Waiyevo;

( a % ) 888 0286; There ) The 203

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 done here. fabulous swimmingandsnorkelling to be edge. Bothhave gorgeous viewsandthere’s tages perched onalawnthewater’s cattle farm,Vatuwiri hastwo smallcot- the SouthPacific andTaveuni’s biggest Supermarket Kaba’s pizza andsandwiches. fresh chopsuey, sign,serves Behind theHotBread Kitchen rock, itcreates rainbowsintheair. As thewater thevolcanic jumpsupthrough hole and Kanacea villages. Checkout the Vatuwiri FarmVatuwiri Resort Sleeping &Eating Taveuni Dive Estates Dolphin BayDivers lowing companieshave goodreputations: are Reef excellent.The fol- nearby Rainbow Diving and snorkelling and onVunaReef Activities est, the rugged coastthrough beautiful rainfor- windsalong The roadsouthfromWaiyevo SOUTHERN TAVEUNI Bar Milk MH Supermarket Kumar’s Restaurant 204 Good curries in a shedlike atmosphere. inashedlike Good curries F$2-4; era (below). Retreat alsooffered. BasedattheDolphinBayDivers dive packages F$130/80/45. Openwatercourses(F$500)andmultiday dives .dolphinbaydivers.com) Two-tank/night/shore early Jan) connect.com.fj; dinclmealsF$340; connect.com.fj; dive/openwatercourseF$210/660. .com) Two-tank Also recommended: Snack bars andsupermarkets: dm/house tent/bure perpersonF$20/25/45; If youturn upunannounced you’llbestranded, althoughthelocals willputyouup. are F$50anddailymealplans are F$35. tended forboozy winelist,whichmakes andcompanionablenights. Returntransfers toTaveuni being constructed at thetimeofresearch. There are alsoadequate mattresses.with comfortable tent three-bed There’s dormandanensuite tent acheerful was cessed fromTaveuni andoffers fantastichousetents whichface thesunriseandare equipped Dolphin BayDivers Retreat THE AUTHOR’S CHOICE on the dramatic, windswept South Cape. onthedramatic,windsweptSouthCape. TAVEUNI ••SouthernTaveuni dalo h Dolphin Baycannot becontacted (duetonomobile reception) fromBucaBayon Vanua Levu. Oneof thelastworkingestates in (Naqara;snacksF$3; breakfast, lunch&dinner before 7pm Mon-Sat) and coconut plantations to Vuna toVuna andcoconutplantations (Somosomo) ( ( % ( ( % % %

( % 992 0531,8880531;www 888 1005;Naqara;meals 888 0088;Naqara) 888 0063;www.taveunidive h 888 0316;vatuwiriresort@ 7am-5pm Mon-Sat) h

( % closed mid-Oct– 992 0531,8880531;www.dolphinbaydivers.com; Vanaira Bay,Vanua Levu; i blow ) This warmandinexpensive retreat ismosteasilyac- Sleeping Divers Vunibokoi Swiss Fiji Divers Matei area andare recommended: The followingdivingcompanies the service Activities nearby snorkelling. tions, dive shops,acoupleof beaches and someofstay, theisland’s bestdiningop- airport, andthere are anumberof placesto for apieceof It’snearthe tropicalparadise. byforeigners bought has been searching northern point.Much of thefreehold land Matei isaresidential area onTaveuni’s MATEI &AROUND Susie’s PlantationResort TaveuniDolphin BayDivers GuestHouse r fromF$75,fF$125) Resort Tovu Tovu BUDGET southeast of Matei airport. are F$45.Tovu Tovu isa20-minute walk rant (see opposite ) anddailymealplans en suites andfans.There’s agoodrestau- withhot-watermodation iscomfortable, Theaccom- who oncerantheplantation. and isstillownedbythePetersen family onasubdividedcopraestate sort isbased bathroom. spotless housewithtwodoublebedroomsandashared 0531; www.dolphinbaydivers.com; s/dF$20/35)Large, Two-tank dive/openwatercourseF$185/600. Two-tank consoles andmaskswithunderwatercommunication. gear,includingcomputer Beach)High-quality near Beverly course F$195/650. Based at the Tovu Tovu Resort ( course F$195/650.BasedattheTovuResort below ). dive/openwater Reef. Two-tank Dives intheRainbow rooms. Former plantationwithgorgeousviewsandarangeof dm/s/d/trF$25/70/120/150; plantationresort.com; ( % ( bure

% Steeped inhistory,thisre- ( % 888 0586;www.swissfijidivers.com; 888 0560;www.tovutovu.com) . Abonusisthelovingly 888 0560;www.tovutovu.com; ( % www.lonelyplanet.com 888 0125;www.susies ( % i 888 ) two-bedroom timber home. two-bedroom hot water at anytime. There’s butno electricityintheevenings hearted campers. Thevibehere isgold. free emergency rainshelter is very goodvalue,andBibihasbuilta d F$1580; d/tr/q F$195/250/320) a two-night minimumstay. a two-night andrelaxed,the owners affable andthere is a singleunit.Theroomsare bigandcosy, reef, Karin’s Gardenisonlyrented outas room, veranda andbird’s-eyeviewof the bedroom cottage withakitchen, sitting s/d fromF$50/90,fF$110) F$10) www.lonelyplanet.com Taveuni Palms TOP END ofEden Garden withthree cottagesand agoodrestaurant. resort www.coconutgrovefiji.com; rF$270-330)Small andpretty Garden Karin’s MIDRANGE snorkelling andfishingequipment. fresh fruitinthemorningandcanprovide ing. Theownersometimesbringsaround and asheltered area forcookinganddin- gorgeous camphasflushtoilets,ashower hugetastic, poison-fish trees, thissmalland Coconut Grove BeachfrontCottages Coconut Grove phone. Walk-inrates canbeabargain. from abigdeck,washingmachine andtele- a pretty pocket of whitegreat sand, views three bedroomsallwithensuite, steps to has airport. ThespaciousnewBulaHouse beach accommodationtothe attheclosest butnochildren.self-caterers kitchen andhot-water bathroom.Great for looking outtotheocean.Downstairs isa bedandaveranda queen-size comfortable breeze-cooled bedroomupstairs witha of proto-pagoda,thiscute cottage hasa precarious aslightly Resembling kind ni d perday/weekF$260/1490,fF$460/2980; maintained. Thenewest maintained. bure, friendly, Bibi’shasavarietyof rooms and Beverly BeachCamping Beverly Little DolphinTreehouse Bibi’s Hideaway Also recommended: Pointe Matei Set onawhite-sand beach beneathfan- Set allof which are cleanandlovingly ) There are lovely views,gardensand a i s

( ( ( % % ( % % )

Breathtakingly beautiful and 888 0032;www.taveunipalmsfiji.com; Alovingly cared fortwo- 888 0511;www.karinsgardenfiji.com;

888 2344;rF$200; 888 0422; www.taveuniresort.com; 888 0422;www.taveuniresort.com; ( % Cheap,relaxed and 888 0443;campingF$15,

( % ( % bure bure 888 0684;camping 888 0130;dF$90) ( s % (F$60/70) forfaint- ) Huge, 888 0328;

F$15-40; Sons required.(F$20); reservations ner (F$25)andon Wednesdayabarbecue ahead). OnSundaythere’s din- abuffet are cantell youifcall available (staff prepared ifingredients dishesare served this waterfront restaurant, butotherwell- 22; rinclmealsF$1500; islandresort.com; with water views.Orderbefore 4pm. ontheveranda fine andmealsare served Thefoodisfreshand deliciousdesserts. and fish dishes, salads, tarian homemadepasta, Cottages (see left excellentvege- ) serves totheCoconutGroveattached Beachfront ( h Restaurant Vunibokoi Eating meals andnochildren under15. is ahoneymooners’ haven withgourmet euni’s (ifnotFiji’s)biggest bathrooms.This bure absolutely gorgeous views.Thevery private beach, allpolished woodandwicker, with opulent resort onahilloverlooking the nanny. Five-night minimumstay. out forkids,andtheresort provides afree kitchens. Onevillahasanensuite sleep- you’re nuts, youcanmake of use thesparkly a five-course If night. mealforyouevery ment system andpersonal chef, who’llcook entertain- swimming pool,state-of-the-art villas,each withaprivatesecluded beach, onthebeach,right Taveuni Palms boaststwo just tohave adrink. (F$20);it’sworthpoppingin music night and onFridaythere’s and apopularbuffet Viubani Island.Thefoodisfabulouslytasty restaurant withanoutdoordeckoverlooking (see opposite ) hasafriendly,comfortable driver. Nand, isaknowledgeable, reliable taxi ries withroti,riceanddahl.Her husband, She dishesupbigportionsof robustcur- dries theingredients onthefrontlawn. marsala isauthentichere Mrs because Lal h % Local supermarkets include Restaurant Tramonto Restaurant Taveuni IslandResort Lal’s Curry Place Lal’s Curry Coconut Grove Restaurant Coconut Grove h breakfast, lunch&dinner) lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) 888 0431) are rockandwoodsomehave Tav- ( % lunch &dinner) h 888 0462) breakfast, lunch&dinner) TAVEUNI &Around ••Matei . and Pizza isthespecialityat

( % (

% You knowthegaram ( ( % Sonal Shopping Centre Tovu Tovu Resort % 888 0705;mealsF$12; 888 0560;mainsF$18; 888 0441;www.taveuni

888 2224;mealsF$18- ( is % Therestaurant 888 0328;meals Bhula Bhai& ) A small, Asmall, 205

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 per person the falls. store yourbagshere whileyouhike upto willletyou Staff kicks infortheevening. you canpicnicbytheriver. Thegenerator for campers andacovered eatingarea, or There’s akitchen, toilets,anopenshower mealsinalovely spot.facilities andserves maximum 8people; 10; abu park withaguide. Thevillage of Wait- white-sand beach. Youcanonlyvisit the This area offers excellentsnorkelling off a Park Marine Waitabu This Park Bouma NationalHeritage nature lovers. fabulously, andtheregion isamagnetfor vour of ecotourism.Theventure isgoing local landowners rejecting infa- logging lush rainforest are ingoodhands,with Taveuni’sEastern beautifulwildcoastand TAVEUNIEASTERN 206 rainforest hike hike rainforest the hundreds of prawnsinthewater. your snorkelling gear, you’llbeable tosee has agreat swimmingpooland,ifyoubring andoftenis lesswellmaintained muddy.It 30-minute hike tothethirdandsmallestfall handrails andlookoutspotstorest. The places, withariver crossing,buthassteps, in a goodswimmingpool.Thetrackissteep or 40minutes along,issmallerbutalsohas waterfall, afurther30 for adip.Thesecond walk alongaflatpathandisgreat place south of theriver inBouma. track beginsopposite thereception and naturalswimmingpools.Thewalking walks, thethree beautiful est. Withinare kilometres several of bush 150sq kmof forest coastal andrainfor- 80% of Taveuni’s area, total covering about tre the Tavoro Waterfalls and parkfees. Bookinadvancethrough The tripincludeshotel transfers, lunch sites, rainforest andTavoro Waterfalls. inhistoricfortifiedvillagewalk taking afternoon tea in thevillage. There’s also a guided snorkel, If youare keen walker, trythe The first waterfall isonly10minutes’

h ( TAVEUNI ••EasternTaveuni % has set up a half-day upahalf-day has set national park 9am-4pm) 888 0390;campingF$10perperson;mealsF$5- F$35/40 for1/4ormore) , which hassimplecamping ( h % bilibili

(admission F$8) Mon-Sat) 888 0390;adult/childF$60/40, visitor informationcen- ride,morning and , afull-dayguided Tavoro Waterfalls tour , includinga protects over

( % 888 0451; Vidawa bure,

meals fromF$470/800/970,child2-11F$150; cook, bringyourownsupplies. shop inthevillage, butifyou’re planningto 10 breakfast/lunch ordinner).There’s atiny hard day’shike. beach, thisisagreat placetorelax after a and amaximumof people. Next to a eight room. There’s electricityintheevening clean rooms,ashared kitchen andbath- Lodge and guidedkayaktours are available. guide. Kayaks canbehired forF$40perday Lodge. Park entranceisF$5orF$15witha an easiergetaway. to theleftof thepoolwhere youcanmake raining),andyoushouldstay hasn’t been can occuratanytimeof ifit year(even for current conditions.Violentflashfloods the falls.Ask Lodge atLavena (see below ) ifnotdangerous, toreachit canbedifficult, pools. Ifyou’re visitingintherainyseason twodeep through swim ashort distance of thetrail,youhave towalkover rocksand andreach Tosee thefallsatend tained. and Lavena Pointisgoodforswimming. some goodsnorkelling andkayakinghere, rainforest to agushingwaterfall. There’s thetropicaland thenclimbsupthrough peacefulvillagesalong thebeach, passes Thetrailfollowstheforestthe effort. edge Walk Coastal The 5kmLavena is wellworth CoastalWalk Lavena and boattransfers (F$20perperson). backpackers’ tourwithguidedsnorkelling island; a two-tank diveisland; a two-tank isF$230. dive spotswithin 10to30minutes of the and Taveuni transfers. Matangi boasts30 includemostactivities tree canopy.Rates (F$1360)arehouses’ perched 5mupinthe garden. Thebeach islovely, andthe‘tree- and each issurroundedbyaneattropical are in toturncartwheels roomyenough coast, withsteep rainforest rising130m. Stunning Matagi is10kmoff Taveuni’s area 1sqkm Matagi OFFSHORE ISLANDS sort Meals are available fromthelodge (F$7/ Run by friendly, informative staff, Run byfriendly,informative staff, The parkismanaged Lavena through The pathisclearlymarked andwellmain- The deluxe

( %

( % 888 0260;www.matangiisland.com;s/d/trincl 888 0116;twperpersonF$15) bure at www.lonelyplanet.com Matangi IslandRe- Matangi hasbasic, is Lavena Lavena ) birdlife forthe andnotable beaches.white-sand Theislandisrich in green andhillyislandskirted bybayswith Only 2.5kmeastfromTaveuni, Qamea isa area 34sqkm Qamea www.lonelyplanet.com waterfalls and haveThe mountains rainforest, numerous ACTIVITIES often don’t have life jackets orradios. fortransfersused toandfromthe airstrip a quicker andsafer option.Thesmallboats iserratic.Flying andthetimetable rough The ferry triptoKadavu fromSuvacanbe DANGERS &ANNOYANCES musk parrot. birdlife, includingthecelebrated Kadavu eastern side, are home toawidevarietyof and thelushrainforests, especiallyonthe Pacific. Buttheinterior isjustascolourful visitors withsomeof thefinestdivingin itrewardsswathe aroundthegroup’sbase, Reef isKadavu’s mainlure. Cuttingavivid the existingculture. travellers withoutimpactingtoogreatly on panding ataslowcreep, tobeckon enough on subsistence agriculture. Tourism isex- and Kadavu’s 72villages stillrely largely aprehistorichelps tomaintain façade, ofThe absence roadsandinfrastructure verdant backdropagainsttheemptysea. groupoftamed islandsformsahillyand About thisun- 100kmsouthof VitiLevu, pop 12,000/area450sqkm KADAVU and fromTaveuni. Nochildren under16. includetransferscost F$360/950.Rates to dives/openments. Two-tank water courses trips andaspaoffering 55different treat- naturenoeing, walks,village visits, fishing kelling, outrigger ca- windsurfing,sailing, beach.white-sand There’s excellentsnor- magnificently thatched .com; d/trinclmealsfromF$1250/1540; when visiting avillage, asktospeak tothe isolated villagers are very traditional, so current conditionsbefore out.The setting migration of landcrabs. The magnificentandsizeableAstrolabe Qamea Resort &Spa Qamea Resort hiking trails.Ask localsabout

( % bure 888 0220;www.qamea lairo, onabeautiful as theannual ) has marillo.co.nz/index.html; perpersonF$2600; 600; sinclmealsfromF$280,d F$400- ecoresort.com; 672 5725,5723016;www.fiji.to) Pde, Suva) lar andunreliable MV considerably. reduce transfer timestonearbyresorts at theeastern endof Kadavu, which would ofis talk another airport beingconstructed and fromNadi(F$330,45minutes). There Papageno Eco-Resort SLEEPING Air Fiji &Around There Getting TRANSPORT don’t carrythingsonyourshoulders. turaga-ni-koro outfits. from 15mto70m.Mostresorts have dive sites are available, asvisibilitycanrange nately, theweatheroften dictates which wonderful arrayof marinelife. Unfortu- coloured corals,vertical drop-offs anda brilliantly side of tosee thegroup.Expect mous Astrolabe skirtingtheeastern Reef ded ina thicktropicalgarden, Papageno for hire. the resorts have two-person oceankayaks dation inbudget resorts andvillages. All around Kadavu withmealsand accommo- offers interesting kayaktours seven-day 5788) davu (F$260,30minutes). make arrangements inadvance. airstrip;guests fromVunisea make sure you resort hasitsownboat andwillpickup group’s principalmodeof transport.Each southern endof Kadavu. Smallboatsare the aroundthe roadtoNabukelevu-i-Ra sealed area,Vunisea un- exceptforonerough, on theweather. varies frombearabletoterrible, depending anything fromfourhours totwodaysand It’s mostlyforcargo cantake andlocaluse, SuvaandKadavutween (F$45oneway). of Kadavu. of Washington,atthesouthernmostend Cape Kadavu Shipping Kadavu The best Kadavu hasexcellent Kadavu’s few roadsare restricted tothe Tamarillo Sea Kayaking Tamarillo Sea n inSuvaoperates thelargely irregu- KADAVU ••Dangers&Annoyances

) ( Ecologically friendlyand embed- % has daily flights fromSuvatoKa- hasdailyflights 331 3666; www.airfiji.com.fj; 185 Victoria 185Victoria 331 3666;www.airfiji.com.fj; surfing first, remove yourhatand inKadavu isfoundaround

( ( % %

331 1766,3395000, Bulou-ni-Ceva 330 3355;www.papageno ( % has daily flights to hasdailyflights diving 04-239 9885;www.ta Sun Air , withthefa- h

( May-Sep) % be- 207 0800

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 r inclmealsF$400-500; refined resort has elevated incline fromthe beach, thistranquiland ber balconies. Delicious meals are served ber balconies. Deliciousmeals are served roofs, four-poster bedsand270-degree tim- Kdv Group Kadavu dive/open water coursecostsF$130/600. kayaking andhikingare allfree. Atwo-tank food isexcellentandkava ceremonies, sea bure furniture madefromlocalmaterials. Larger garden roomsincludefuton-stylebedsand Cool islandsanctuary. is thequintessential 208 dives/open water courses costF$105/590. ray,cavemanta andshark dives. Two-tank to theNaiqoroPassage, featuring excellent Matava offers dives fromtheSosoPassage onalarge communalveranda.are served lent meals(F$55/20peradult/child aday) are withwonderfulviews.Excel- blessed pricier HoneymoonandOceanview verandas andplentyof The sunlight. ing thatched grounds, thisecofriendly resort hascharm- dm F$20,dF$110-170; 1 3 2 KADAVU GROUP Nabukelevu-i-Ra Matava Resort Matava Tiliva Resort Tiliva Resort Washington KADAVU ••Sleeping have plentyof spaceandprivacy.The aaaRsr...... C3 Matava Resort...... SLEEPING Waisalima BeachResort...... Tiliva Resort...... Papageno Eco-Resort...... Nagigia IslandResort...... Dive KadavuResort...... Albert's SunriseResort...... Cape S OUTHPACIFEN 4 Kong King ὄὄ ὄὄὄ AC ( bure % Washington, 838m)

Nabukelevu (Mt Daviqele ( n % 333 7127; www.tilivaresortfiji.com; 333 7127;www.tilivaresortfiji.com; withmodestfurniture, n Tawaya ) 330 5222;www.matava.com; Ascending over asoft ) Inneatandlush ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ Matanuku Nasegai Namalata Tavuki Reefs bure 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Airport D2 D2 B2 A3 B2 D2 Ferry with high withhigh B Muani Vunisea Drue 2 Beach Long Harbour bure Galoa North Bay Rooper Galoa Reef Naikorokoro ὄ ὄ

Namara 5 Muanikaukau Daku Bay per personF$6,dm/s/dF$16/37/50) .com; s/d/finclmealsF$320/560/980; gracious. are the hosts,KimandBarbara, exceedingly towering palmsandshining parrots,and deckoverlookingon afabuloussweeping water coursecostsF$170/600. a favourite dive/open haunt.Atwo-tank about 5kmfromthenorthwestcoast, are Reefs, popular pastimeandtheNamalata port transfers. Unsurprisingly,divingisa are extremely includeair- hospitable. Rates soci able, ocean-fronted bar. Management andas andtidybathrooms,there’s a Modest est snorkelling andswimmingbeaches. pealing resort enjoysoneof Kadavu’s fin- from the Vunisea airstripfrom the Vunisea costF$100for ity orhot water. One-way transfers toand est. and activitiesare organised ifthere’s inter- whenthey’re cookeddaily F$37)are served of avillage visit.Fresh meals(perperson resort, Albert’soffers travellers theflavour Point Passage Soso Soso Dive Kadavu Resort Kadavu Dive Albert’s Sunrise Resort Sunrise Albert’s Bay Bure Daku Nacomoto Vukavu Dravuwalu Kadavu Rakiraki Soso bure are rusticandthere’s noelectric- 12miles 20km 0 0 ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ Yale Bay Levuka Namatiu have beds,ver- comfortable Kadavu Kavala Waya Bay Nabouwalu Bay Matasawalevu D'Urville Channel 3

( Ferry %

Ono

Vacalea O Tiliva n Vabea

Passage www.lonelyplanet.com

331 7780;www.divekadavu o Vanuakula Vesi Namara

(

Nukuvou C

% Narikoso h

6 a

Dravuni

n Yaukuve 1 ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄ

7 n

Afamily-run

333 7555;camping G e

Buliya Levu n r l e Naqara a Naiqoro Passage t D )

Thisap- A s t To Suva r o l a b e R e e f Mauiwalu Complex, RonaSt,WaluBay,Suva) Mauiwalu Walu Bay,Suva) RonaSt, Wharf, Complex,OldMillers fax 3320251;Muaiwalu airport transfers F$115. airport plansF$60perpersondaily.Return over thesea. Meal n dminclmealsF$115,dfromF$250; .fijisurf.com; saga Shipping on Thursday andSunday(F$195). Nagigia IslandResort Nagigia beforehand.ment thoroughly F$145, butyoushouldcheck yourequip- to NaiqoroPassage. dive Atwo-tank costs up totwopeople. Albert’srunsdive trips www.lonelyplanet.com Air Fiji THERE&AWAYGETTING Transport patient explorers. islandsappealtohardenedand why these you’ll findnobanks,butthisisprecisely yachts. Tourism isvirtuallynonexistent and are ashurricaneshelters used by visiting storms canbefierceandsomeof thebays mate here isdrierthanmostpartsof Fiji, ing Polynesian cultures. thecli- Although have greatly been influencedbyneighbour- and carving and interiors are hillyandwild. baysandbeaches,the oceanandsecluded colourful reef wedge themselves between populated inallof Fiji.Thickperimeters of are someof the mostremote andsparsely 57islandsner, halfwaytoTonga,these Scattered acrossFiji’s southwestern cor- LAU GROUP Waisalima BeachResort frequent boats to the Southern Lau Group. frequent boatsto the SouthernLau Suva) week onboard. week to spendabout a including meals.Expect are F$90/120perperson foradeck/cabin ger One-way fares boat. toVanua Balavu aboard theMV aboard Group tripstoislands intheLau fortnightly per day, return airport transfers F$100. per day,return airport planF$50 rudimentary bathroomsandhammocks. Meal d F$130)Rough-hewnbudgetretreat withthatched .waisalimafiji.com; campingpersiteF$8,dmF$12, More accommodationoptions: Lau islanders areLau knownfortheirwood- Kabua Development Corporation Development Kabua ) Remote and upscale surf resort with elevated rooms withelevated resort andupscalesurf ) Remote flies between SuvaandVanua fliesbetween Balavu

( % 331 3666; www.airfiji.com.fj; 185 Victoria Pde, Pde, 185Victoria 331 3666;www.airfiji.com.fj; and

masi ( % Khans Shipping Khans Tunatuki, 330 3403;WaluBay,Suva) (barkcloth)crafts,and ( % ( % 333 7774,6003051;www 331 7281;www acargo/passen- ( %

operate in- ( % /fax 330 8786; /fax 3308786; 330 2258; Saliaba- bure, has

the MinistryforFijianAffairs. p213 ), andthenapplyforpermission from clear customsandimmigrationfirst (see ing perpersonF$10,s/dF$40/70; implying that you feel the house isnotgood implying thatyoufeel the house bure villages, upnexttosomeone’s avoid setting or villages. Ifyouare invited tocampin population, by mote areas, isownedbytheindigenous re-Most of inseemingly Fiji’sland,even mission before upcampanywhere. setting in Fiji.Ifyou’ve per- gotatent intow, seek facilities. dwellings) andrudimentary outer islandsusuallyoffer cellent facilities,butbudget placesonthe Coral CoastandtheMamanucas have ex- backpacker resorts inNadi, VitiLevu’s pensive hotel withshared facilities.Many to F$90foradoubleinhostel orinex- F$40 toF$80forasingleroomandF$60 expect topayF$20F$30foradormbed, to suitallwallets.Budget travellers can Fiji hasagoodrange of accommodation ACCOMMODATION FIJI DIRECTORY 12 breakfast/lunch/dinner). friendly owners andfabulousmeals(F$5/10/ ( largely rely oncopraand Pacific. Todaythepeopleof Vanua Balavu shipslarly visited tradinginthe bysailing the largest village, wasFiji’sfirst port,regu- diving, kayakingandswimming. west pocket site andisaspectacular for also knownas Qilaqila, sitsinthenorth- limestone hills.Thecelebrated wide, haslotsof beaches andrugged sandy This beautifulisland,averaging about2km area 53sqkm VANUA BALAVU their income. Estate and fishingtripscanbearranged. style cottage withinthevillage. Snorkelling about 1kmfromthevillage, plusaTongan- three unfussy % Yachties to need wishingtovisitLau There isvirtuallynoorganised camping Covering allbases, The comfortable, colonial-style The comfortable, 889 5006;rperpersoninclmealsF$85; . Doing so canbemisinterpreted as

( % 889 5144;[email protected];camp- LAU GROUP••Vanua Balavu mataqali bure onthebeach shore, (extended families) Moana’s Guesthouse n bêche-de-mer bure ) homestay has has homestay Bay ofIslands (thatched Lomaloma Nawanawa Nawanawa n ) has 209 for

, ,

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 sales tax. sales this chapter are inclusive of Fiji’s12.5% to pure luxury. rangingfrombackpacker-stylenear thesea, Fiji andcanrefer toanyaccommodation per room. with pricesrangingfromF$160toF$2000 erally includefive-star chains andresorts, units.Top-endoptionsgen- self-contained in hotels, andmanylodges andresorts offer andbarfridges can expectbathrooms,TVs person andF$90toF$170fortwo. Guests resorts rangingfromF$80toF$150forone range; optionsincludehotels, motels and the Yasawas. are alsosomeexcellent trailsonWaya in Koroyanitu National Heritage Park. There include MtTomaniviand Highlands Levu permission. Hiking hotspotsintheViti marked trailsthatdon’trequire guidesor and Taveuni’s Walkhave Coastal Lavena for hiking.Suva’sColo-i-SuvaForest Park and Viti Levu Taveuni are thebestislands Hiking ( ( structors andreputations include course. F$650 foraPADI openwater certification diveto F$190foratwo-tank andF$400to (see p70 ). Pricesrange fromaroundF$140 cent sites anddive resorts budget forevery dangerous. tideandchannelsswim athigh canbe coast, butinmanyplacesyoucanonly areGroups. Reefs often very tothe close as islandsintheMamanuca andYasawa northerncoast,aswelloff VitiLevu’s Among thebestspotsare Nananu-i-Ra Fiji offers snorkelling. somespectacular Diving &Snorkelling ACTIVITIES a giftor best placetopitch yourtent isandprovide in.Ask foryoutostay enough where the 210 the Mamanucas and Fiji surface Yasawas. % % All accommodationpricesquoted in The term ‘resort’ very in isused loosely Most accommodationinFijiismid- Companies withgoodequipment,in- This isalsoa diver’s Mecca withmagnifi- FIJI DIRECTORY ••Activities FIJIDIRECTORY 666 1462,998862;[email protected]) 672 6111;www.aquabluefiji.com) sevusevu

( % 666 6738;www.subsurfacefiji.com) . Westside WaterSports inNadi, AquaBlue inthe Sub- in

.tamarillo.co.nz/index.html) at Pacific Harbour, Highlands. and kayakingtripstothesuperbNamosi waves. surf due tolowpressures bringing inbig son (May toOctober) isthebesttimeto CoralCoast. Thedrysea- along VitiLevu’s are alsobreaks atKadavu andafew places byexperienced surfers.be tackled There and Wilkes Passages). shouldonly These and inthesouthernMamanucas (Malolo (Frigate’s Passage)along southernVitiLevu The bestspotsare inbarrier-reef passages majority of breaks are onoffshore reefs. Surfing usuallyrequires boattripsasthe Surfing by (see Nananu-i-Ra p175 ) andare offered Sea- kayaking tours are available around &Rafting Kayaking www.riversfiji.com) PRACTICALITIES Tamarillo Sea Kayaking Tamarillo Sea

page forconversions. measurement. SeetheQuickReference Fiji follows the metricsystem of thoseinAustralialike andNZ. plugs orthree-pin Outlets useflattwo- AC. issuppliedat240V,50Hz Electricity and thePacific. NZ, Europe, theUKandmostofAsia are PAL, whichisthesameasAustralia, The videoandDVDsystems usedinFiji andbars. insomeresorts TV one television stationandSkysatellite folk, countryandlocalmusic. Fiji has mixofpop,rock,reggae,eclectic dance, Fiji 2and98FM). Bula100playsan Fijian Fiji (Radio 1)andFiji-Hindi (Radio Fijiin English(Radio 3and104FM), Broadcasting Commissionhasstations The government-sponsored Fiji /fijimagic) and newspaper. Fiji Times activities andtours.activities prices ofaccommodation,restaurants, monthly publicationswithdetailsand isthenationaldaily offers excitingriver-rafting Fiji Magic Fiji Holidays Rivers Fiji Rivers offKadavu. Based www.lonelyplanet.com (www.fijilive.com

( % are free 04-239 9885;www ( % 345 0147; Victoria House, 47GladstoneRd,Suva) Victoria House, ThomsonSt,Suva) Tamavua, Suva) Suva) Pde, Arcade,Victoria Cromptons Solicitors,1stfl,Victoria dinner onSunday. 9pm) fromMondaytoSaturday,aswell lunch (11amto2pm)anddinner(6pm generallyon Sunday.Restaurants openfor to 2pmandpracticallynothinghappens day). Many forlunch from1pm placesclose (to4pmonFri- 8am to4.30pmweekdays urday. Government are offices openfrom to 5pm,andsomefrom8am1pmonSat- Most from8am openweekdays businesses BUSINESS HOURS www.lonelyplanet.com USA UK Tuvalu New Zealand Netherlands Nauru Pde,Suva) Victoria Korea Japan Germany France Canada Australia inFiji Embassies &Consulates USA UK New Zealand Japan Canada Australia following countries. Fiji hasdiplomaticrepresentation inthe Fijian Embassies &Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES using pramsandstrollers difficult. paths,and sand which however, canmake dren’s pools.Someresorts have lotsof levels chairs,high organised activitiesandchil- ally forchildren, withbaby-sitting,cotsand child-friendly. Many resorts cater specific- Fiji isamajor familydestinationandvery CHILDREN Harris Rd,Suva) Harris Reserve BankBldg,PrattSt,Suva) Reserve House, Suva) House, ThomsonSt,Suva) (High Commission; (High ( ( ( % % % ( ( ( ( ( ( % % % % (Consulate; ( 020-7584 3661;www.fijihighcommission.org.uk) % % % 331 4466; fax 330 0081; 31 Loftus St,Suva) 331 4466;fax 3300081;31Loftus 202-337 8320;www.fijiembassy.org) ( ( (Consulate; % % 330 0977;fax8059;8thfl,Vanua House, 330 2122;fax1452;2ndfl,Dominion 03-3587 2038;www.fijiembassy.jp) 331 3566; fax 330 2861; 7th fl, Ratu Sukuna Sukuna 331 3566;fax3302861;7thfl,Ratu 331 2233;fax3301894;7thfl,Dominion 330 1355; fax 330 8479; 16 Gorrie St,Suva) 330 1355;fax8479; 16Gorrie 03-233 9252;fax5948705) (Consulate; ( ( 338 2211; fax 338 2065; 37 Princes Rd, 338 2211;fax2065;37Princes 02-6260 5115;[email protected]) % % % 331 1422;fax3300842;10thfl, 04-473 5401;fax4991011) % % /fax 6721936;Nadiairport) % 331 2633;fax3302416;80-82 322 9100;fax3301406; 330 1499;fax1618; releases, newsandimmigrationupdates. this internationalswimevent. Islandin Competitors racea3kmcourseofoceanatMana online. with rides, music, shows and the crowning of ‘Miss Bula’. music,showsandthecrowningof‘Miss with rides, of thegod. candles andlanternsare setondoorstepstolighttheway Lakshmi, housesare decorated,businessissettled,and Fiji Times Fiji Government RESOURCES INTERNET ( phenomenon toFijithanks (10c to20cperminute). citiesismoreside these limited andpricier around 6cto10cperminute. Accessout- and Lautoka Nadi. Broadbandaccesscosts Internet cafés are fairlyprolificinSuva, ACCESS INTERNET Leela( Ram Play ofRama) Diwali Festival ( Festival ofLights) October/November CoveintheMamanucas. international regatta heldatMuscat Week Fiji Regatta Festival Sugar September Fire Walking Ritual Hindu Fiji OceanSwim Festival Hibiscus August Festival Bula July Naumi( Ram ofLordRama) Birth March/April Holi( Hindu Festival ofColours) February/March See p829 forregional publicholidays. FESTIVALS &EVENTS Indians inmanytemples. return fromexile. andhis Rama thelife ofgod-king performances theatrical throw flowers. festival inSuvaBay.Worshipperswadeintothewaterand coloured waterateachother; bestseeninLautoka. and funfairs. purchase aspecialmodemfromthem. purchase % Wireless Internet accessisarecent 327 5040;www.unwired.com.fj) FIJI DIRECTORY ••BusinessHours FIJI DIRECTORY (www.fijitimes.com.fj) Fiji’s dailynewspaper OneofFiji’s biggestfestivals –heldinNadi Lautoka’s streets comealivewithparades Lautoka’s (www.manafiji.com/swim2.htm) (www.fiji. gov.fj) Contains press HeldinSuva,withlotsoffloats. (www.musketcovefiji.com) Annual, (www.musketcovefiji.com) Hindus celebratethrough Hindus Performed bysouthern Performed People squirt People squirt ; you’ll need to ; you’llneed Hindu religious Hindu Hindus worship Hindus Unwired FijiUnwired 211

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 to bargain butbargaining iscustomaryin tips. Indigenous Fijiansgenerally don’tlike resorts ChristmasFund’jarfor have a‘Staff While tippingis not expected inFiji,many Tipping ongoodsandservices. tax sive of VAT a12.5% sales (valueaddedtax), All pricesquoted inthischapter are inclu- Taxes 24c Vanuatu 100Vt F$1.58 USA US$1 F$2.17 UK £1 Tonga T$1 S$1 86c Solomon Islands Samoa ST1 F$1.82 60c F$3.34 €1 NZ NZ$1 F$1.72 Japan ¥100 100CFP Ch$1000 F$1.09 F$3.14 F$1.52 euro zone Easter Island CFP zone Canada C$1 F$1.55 F$1.30 Australia A$1 Fijian Country Unit given inthefollowingtable. dollar tralian andNZdollars. Exchange rates are relativewhich isfairly stable totheAus- The localcurrency istheFijiandollar(F$), Currency andMasterCard.as Visa cards, includingCirrusandMaestro, aswell most acceptthemaininternational debit ATMs are common inurbanareas and ATMs MONEY mapfortourists. most useful of Suva. The each islandorgroup,aswellmaps topographicmapsof(1:50,000), detailed lands istheMap Shop big inSuva. Itsells The bestplacetobuy maps of theFijiis- MAPS Fijilive Bureau Fiji Visitors Fiji Village 212 lent linkstolocalevents. Fijians, thissiteisupdatedwithdailynewsandhasexcel- ities andgettingaround,withlinksanemaildirectory. informationon accommodation,activ- site,offering tourist FIJI DIRECTORY ••Maps FIJIDIRECTORY (www.fijilive.com) LiveupdatesonFijian news. (www.fijivillage.com) Geared foroverseas (www.fijivillage.com)Geared Fiji Travel Map (www.bulafiji.com) Fiji’s official byHema isthe Moraji Kalidas Bldg, Main St) Bldg,Main Moraji Kalidas Post Fiji Bldg,ThomsonSt; agencies. phones canberented fromsomecar-rental Mobile Phones Mobile Phones % The international telephone codeforFijiis TELEPHONE good deals. pitch early inthemorningaswellsome day; youcanexpectanespeciallyhardsales theirfirst customerofbad lucktolose the shop owners drivers andtaxi considerit most Indo-Fijianstores. Many Indo-Fijian available fromshops in urbancentres. cards are theWorld forCheap’cards, ‘Call find thematresorts andaroundtown. ation andare rarely functioning.You’ll also butthey’reoffice generally justfordecor- You’ll findpublicphonesoutside thepost inations of F$3,F$5,F$10,F$20andF$50. cies andnewsagents. Theycome indenom- available somepharma- frompostoffices, Public telephones require aphonecard, Phonecards Vodafone purchased from purchased the UK,aswellOptusinAustralia. ments withVodafoneinAustralia,NZand andhasroaming agree- GSM service digital bile phonecompanyinFiji.Itoperates a For international calls,the cheapest calling Mobile phonesandsimcardscanbe LONELY INDEX PLANET HOW MUCH? 679. There are noarea codes. Samosa: Souvenir T-shirt: Stubbie ofFiji Bitter: 1L bottledwater: 1L petrol: Cocktail: Coffee: Local busride: Snorkel hire: Taxi inNadiorSuva:

(www.vodafone.com.fj) F$2 50c F$6 F$1.50 F$5-10 Vodafone 65c F$20 Nadi . Alternatively, mobile F$1.50 www.lonelyplanet.com F$4-10 F$4 % istheonlymo-

670 3666;Shop153, ( Suva

% 331 4170; useful sourceofuseful information. Victoria Pde,Suva; Victoria St& 4177; www.spto.org; 3rdfl,DolphinPlaza,cnrLoftus and 10am the same dayinSydney. and 10amthesame Angeles, dayinAuckland noonthesame in London,5pmtheprevious dayinLos theprevious day noon inSuvait’smidnight Fiji is12hours aheadof GMT. Whenit’s TIME www.lonelyplanet.com sea of smiling faces,mostly representativessea will begreeted by serenading anda guitar Airport nearSuva. landing atNausoriInternationalflights at NadiInternational Airport,withafew Most international to flights Fijiarrive Air THERE& AWAY GETTING INFIJI TRANSPORT ( ure. Applyatthe three months depart- after yourproposed funds andyourpassportmustbevalidfor show anonwardticket, proof of sufficient partment of to Immigration. You’ll need six months theDe- byapplyingthrough aFijianembassypriortoarrival. through from thislistwillhave toapplyforvisas than yourintended stay. port validforatleastthree months longer tohaveneed anonwardticket andapass- /publish/fiji_faqs.shtml forafulllist.You’ll and SouthKorea. Checkwww.fiji.gov.fj and Western Europe,India,Israel,Japan North America,much of SouthAmerica belonging totheBritishCommonwealth, 100 countries,includingmostcountries granted on arrivaltocitizensof more than A free tourist forfourmonthsvisa is VISAS ( ofThe headoffice the TOURIST INFORMATION INFIJI Namaka; Namaka; Victoria Pde,Suva; Victoria St& 4177; www.spto.org; 3rdfl,DolphinPlaza,cnrLoftus Nadi. There inSuva( isalsoanoffice % % The As youenter thearrivalsarea inNadi,you canbeextended forupto Tourist visas Nationalities fromcountriesexcluded 331 2672;GovernmentBldg,Suva) 672 2433;www.bulafiji.com;Suite107,ColonialPlaza, South Pacific Tourism Organisation Organisation South Pacific Tourism h 8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-4pmFri) h h 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Immigration Department Fiji Visitors Bureau Fiji Visitors . . is another ( % % isin 330 330 TRANSPORT IN FIJI •• Getting There &Away INFIJI••Getting TRANSPORT

.cfm) .com.au) vanuatu.com) .qantas.com.au) you’re ship oryacht. onacruise unless Travelling is difficult toFijiby sea Sea Airlines United Solomon Airlines Royal TonganAirlines Qantas Airways Pacific Blue Air Korean Air Freedom Aircalin Air Vanuatu Air Pacific Air NewZealand .com.au) Air Nauru Air Fiji to andfromFiji: season. about £850/1100low/high return ticket fromLondontoNadicosts A season. is aboutUS$920/1300low/high Los Angeles–Nadi withAirNewZealand andticket restrictions.pending onseason from theUSAvarygreatly inprice,de- Fares season. about NZ$460/730low/high From AucklandtoFiji(three hours) costs ically A$550/800return season. low/high of thatincludeFiji. airpasses Air andUnited Airlines.See p837 fordetails Korean Pacific, AirNewZealand, Qantas, domestic purposes. for theairportismostlyused Otherwise havetas direct toandfromSydney. flights toTuvalu,andAirPacificflights andQan- airport.AirFijihas Suva, isFiji’ssecond agencies. of localaccommodationandthemanytravel .com.fj) .com.fj) The followinginternational airlinesfly Fares fromSydneyorBrisbaneare typ- Fijiare Air The maincarriers servicing Nausori, 23kmnortheastof downtown at the airport. at theairport. sothereyour ticket, isnoneedtopayit Fijian taxisincorporated departure into DEPARTURE TAX ( % ( % ( ( ( % % 672 2521,3313666;www.airfiji.com.fj/index (www.flypacificblue.com) % ( ( 672 2145;www.aircalin.nc) % % 672 2795,3312377/3731;www.airnauru 672 0888,3304388;www.airpacific ( ( 672 1043;www.koreanair.com.au) % ( % 672 2521,3313666/3055;www.air ( 0800 600500;www.freedomair.co.nz) % % 61 131777;www.united.com) 672 2880,3313888/1833;www 331 3100;www.airnz.co.nz) 672 2831;www.solomonairlines ( % 672 4355;rtafiji@connect

213

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Fijian Affairs Fijian Affairs a crew listandpassports. of clearancefromtheprevious portof call, tion andquarantine. Present acertificate or Savusavu, toclearcustoms,immigra- Levuka ports of entryatSuva,Lautoka, island transfers from Nadi. as thatcan beused andjoyflights services See p153 forinformationabout charter Sun Air Air Fiji Savusavu andothernortherndestinations. mestic market, withaplantoflyTaveuni, Air Pacific wasplanningtore-enter thedo- directly theairlineofficesinSuva. through can sometimesget adiscountifyoubook occurrence. See p147 fares. forsample You fore isacommon orafter yourpossessions plane,andarrivingbe- luggage inaseparate in Nadi.SunAiroften transportspassengers’ operate out of Nausori,whileSunAirisbased plane. MostAirFijiservices bylight flights Air FijiandSunhave regular inter-island AIRLINES INFIJI Air charter boatsandsmallplanes. conditioned express rental vehicles, buses, fort, orare air- shortontime,youcanuse cheaply andeasily.Ifyou’dlike more com- can get aroundFiji’smainislandsrelatively carriersBy usinglocalbuses, andferries, you AROUND GETTING all portduesandhealthfees. before immigration, andyoumusthave paid next portof call.Customs mustbecleared ance papers, andyour yourvessel’s details (within 24hours), providing inboundclear- tocomplete again need clearanceformalities the outer departing,you’ll islands.Before .shtml) 214 Labasa, andbetweenSavusavu andTaveuni. ItalsohastwoflightsdailybetweenSuvaand and Kadavu. to Taveuni; andonetoSuva andMana; fourtoMalololailai two flightsdailyfromNaditoLabasaandSavusavu; three Taveuni andonetoLabasa. From Nadi,there are fourflightsdailytoSavusavu,two Vanua andKoro. Balavu,andonceweeklytoMoala, Gau and also fliestwiceweeklyfromSuvatoRotuma,Lakeba Savusavu andTaveuni; It to Levuka, andonetoKadavu. flightsdailyfromSuvatoNadi;fiveLabasa;two seven Yachties toapplythe need Yachts toheadforthedesignated need TRANSPORT IN FIJI •• Getting Around INFIJI••Getting TRANSPORT for special written authorisation to visit forspecialwritten tovisit authorisation ( ( % % 331 3666; www.airfiji.com.fj) Operates 331 3666;www.airfiji.com.fj) 0800 6725725,5723016;www.fiji.to)Has (www.fiji.gov.fj/publish/m_fijian_affairs Ministry for for Ministry right ofright way. should betoassumethatallvehicles have regarding cyclists,sotheruleof thumb runs mountain-bike tours (see p151 ). Wacking StickAdventure Tours nearNadi ways test thebrakes andgears beforehand. and costaroundF$25toF$40perday;al- on theCoralCoast,atNadiandOvalau road.Bicyclescanbehired coastal Ovalau’s HibiscusHwyonVanuaunsealed and Levu the include theCoralCoastonVitiLevu, andgoodspots bike isinthe‘drier’season rather unaware of cyclists.Thebesttimeto hilly andrugged andFijiandrivers canbe someareascycling, although are extremely Fiji’s larger islandshave goodpotential for Bicycle will costF$100toreissue yourticket. imal onceinFiji.Ifyouchange yourmind,it cancellation fee, andreimbursement ismin- charged 10%.There isaF$100predeparture under 12get a25%discountandinfantsare small planesoften fillupquickly.Children per sector. asthe It’sbesttobookyourseats, butyoucanaddextralegsforF$100 flights, national airfare. The pass includesfour sold onlyoutsideFijitogether withaninter- Air Fiji’s30-dayPass isUS$270.It’s AIR PASSES let youtake theircaron board. filthy, sotake yourowntoiletpaper. long waitatstopovers. Toilets canbecome for changing frequently andthere isoften a and Kadavu. Ferry are timetables notorious Group,Rotuma gers fromSuvatotheLau Irregular boatsalsotake passen- to Ovalau. Vanua andTaveuni, Levu andalsoVitiLevu to linkViti Levu Regular ferry services FERRY the Mamanuca andYasawa Groups. areran transfers cruises available andsail in considerpostponingthetrip! seriously looks ominousortheboatisovercrowded, jackets are rarely provided; iftheweather especially forthebackpacker resorts. Life islandsisbysmalllocalboats, and between islands, often theonlymeansof transportto With theexceptionof theupmarket resort Boat There seems to be no official roadrule tobenoofficial There seems Note thatmostcar-rental agencies won’t Inter-island catama- tripsforsightseeing, www.lonelyplanet.com con Nasekula Rd; Nasekula another bus trip to Labasa (fourhours). another bustriptoLabasa walu (3¾hours) onVanua andthen Levu from theKorean Wharf. (F$20),departingat8.45am and Labasa a bus/boattripfromTaveuni toSavusavu daily. See daily. See p184 formore information. oflands, plusseveral theMamanuca islands sawa Flyer runs alarge calledthe yellowcatamaran information. Mamanuca islands.See p180 formore DenarauMarinadaily between andthe .com) Cruises South Sea Nadi–Mamanucas www.lonelyplanet.com Labasa at5am. Labasa depart Suva at2pmand(one hour). Buses (one hour)and anotherbustoLevuka followed byaferry toBuresala Landing Terminal, RodwellRd)toNatovi Landing, ride (1½hours) fromSuva(Western Bus (F$24),which involves abus daily service Patterson Brothers Shipping operates a Suva–Natovi–Buresala–Levuka Friday, SaturdayandSunday. route (F$45,10hours) onWednesday, Patterson Brothers Shipping travels this Suva–Natovi–Nabouwalu–Labasa kani St BrothersShipping Patterson Nabouwalu–Labasa Wharf– Lautoka–Ellington % 1500; fax6664496;economy/firstclassF$45/65 F$80/50) Dominion HouseArcade,ThomsonSt,Suva;cabin/seat Shipping Consort Suva–Savusavu–Taveuni Awesome Adventures Nadi–Yasawas of onward services toTaveuni.of onwardservices p194 formore and details p200 fromSuvatoSavusavu week (12hours); see fordetails from % Arcade,NinaSt; fax 3301652;Suites1&2,Epworth Port Denarau,Nadi) Port Grace Ferry 885 0266; 881 2444; Nasekula Rd 881 2444;Nasekula necting withthe , which also operates South Sea Cruises, Cruises, , which alsooperates SouthSea ; Lautoka toEllingtonWharf(3½hours), Lautoka Levuka and

Savusavu toalltheof theYasawa Groupis- Taveuni

% Beachcomber Cruises

( Labasa 344 0125;BeachSt)

has a catamaran shuttling hasacatamaran (

% %

Country Kitchen; Country Kitchen;

GulamNabi&Sons; (

330 2877; fax 330 3389; Ground fl, 330 2877;fax3389;Groundfl, % 888 0036) ( % ; Ashika Lautoka 675 0500;www.ssc.com.fj; 675 0499;www.

sail three sail timesa

ferry toNabou- ( % Suva % operates abus

666 1173;15Tu-

( Lautoka 927 1372) % % awesomefiji 331 5644; ; 881 1152;

Savusavu % Labasa has Ya- 666

Rona St,WaluBay,Suva) the weather. from fourhours totwodays,dependingon cantake anything one way).Theservice onthe MV services Complex, Old Millers Wharf, RonaSt,WaluBay,Suva) Wharf, Complex, OldMillers for departure timesanddates. (deck/cabin F$130/150,36hours). Call Rona St,WaluBay,Suva) trips over longer (eg SuvatoNadi). distances your ticket inadvance,especially forcoach an appointment,it maybeagoodideatobuy Ifyouare schedulebuses. or have onatight in Savusavu and p200 forLabasa. onVanuabuses see Levu; p198 forservices p202 Localcompaniesoperate fordetails). onTaveunilatter alsooperates services (see port are the themaincarriers onVitiLevu; pecially inruralareas. stops butyoucanoften es- justhailbuses, tar paulins forwhenitrains. There are bus ics, withunglazedwindowsandpull-down and smokytheyare perfect forthetrop- around. Whiletheycanbefairlynoisy is aninexpensive andfunwayof getting alocalbusonFiji’slargerCatching islands Bus and immigrationrequirements. p213 forinformationondocumentation or hitch a ride oncruisingvessels. See archipelago. Itispossibletocharter boats Yachting isagreat waytoexplore theFiji YACHT Saliabasaga Shipping Suva–Lau Group Shipping Western Suva–Rotuma Shipping Kadavu Suva–Kadavu Corporation Group are operated by around aweek. cabin, includingmeals;thetriptakes to Vanua Balavuare F$90/120foradeck/ aboard theMV Group tripstotheLau runs fortnightly Suva) Khans Shipping Khans TRANSPORT IN FIJI •• Getting Around INFIJI••Getting TRANSPORT Reservations are forlocal notnecessary Reservations Sunbeam TransportandPacific Trans- Infrequent boatstotheSouthernLau operates the

( % ( %

330 2258;fax3320251;Muaiwalu ( %

Tunatuki /fax 330 8786; Mauiwalu Complex, /fax 3308786;Mauiwalu . Cagi Mai Ba

( has irregular passenger % ( 331 1766,3395000,5788; % Bulou-ni-Ceva 331 4467;NaryanJetty, 330 3403;WaluBay,Suva) Kabua Development Development Kabua . One-wayfares toRotuma (F$45 and 215

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1 Nadi–Korolevu isF$18. Nadi–Korolevu alongtheway. 1pm), droppingoffatCoralCoastresorts between NadiandSuva(F$25,4½hours,7.30am Twodailyair-conditionedservices /fiji; Nadiairport) requirement 25. is21,orinsome cases ing licence isrequired. The minimum age support, butare more expensive. well-known companies have better cars and leave thelarger, aheftycashbond.Generally, card. Ifyoudon’thave to one, you’llneed days’ hire. It’susualtopayadepositbycredit car cancosttwiceasmuch foroneortwo butthesame F$80 perday,excludingtax, an international companywillcostaround therate; ormorethe higher aweek with cost withothers. Theshorter thehire period, larger islands,especiallyifyoucansplitthe Despite this, itisagoodwaytoexplore the carsRental are relatively expensive inFiji. HIRE before travelling. inyourhomecountry should beobtained aninternational drivingpermit,whichneed titled todrive youwill inFiji.Otherwise, an English-speakingcountry,youare en- If youholdacurrent drivinglicencefrom DRIVING LICENCE to explore bycar. one-fifth are Bothislandsare sealed). fun andVanuaare onVitiLevu (about Levu Ninety percentof Fiji’s5100kmof roads & Motorcycle Car Fiji Touring United Limited Sunbeam Transport Limited Pacific Transport Coral SunFiji inLautoka. fromtheiroffices tables Pacific TransportandSunbeamissue time- 216 © LonelyPlanetPublications Coast. ontheCoral four hours,oncedaily),stoppingatresorts coaches betweenNadiandtheHolidayInninSuva(F$20, Kings Rd. Kings dailyviathe Rd (F$12,fivehours).Alsoaroundsixservices dailyviatheQueens express services four Lautoka–Suva 2822, inSuva3382122/2704,Nadi9272121)Around you can book in advance for an extra 50c. you canbookinadvanceforanextra OKtoturnupatthebusstation,but Coral Coast.Generally Suva (F$12.50,five/sixhoursforregular/express) viathe and 4366) Aboutsixexpress buses dailybetweenLautoka 6500088,inSuva330 6660499,inSigatoka in Lautoka A validoverseas orinternational driv- Bus companiesinFiji: TRANSPORT IN FIJI •• Getting Around INFIJI••Getting TRANSPORT ( % 672 3105) Comfortable, air-conditioned air-conditioned 672 3105)Comfortable, ( % 672 2811;www.atspacific.com ( % ( % in Nadi6700044, in Lautoka 666 in Lautoka tion tours. Four-/six-daytoursF$430/600. ence.com) Fun andsocialhop-on,hop-offbus/accommoda- a while. 672 2935,inSuva3314436) /four-day tours F$720/1100. tours.com/fiji) Smallgrouptoursaround VitiLevu. Three- 3380758,inSuva0981) airport Nausori theft of thevehicle. overhead damage, windscreen damage and pany, includetyre damage, underbodyand that won’tbepaidforbytheinsurancecom- damage. Commonexclusions,orproblems ance. Renters are liableforthefirst F$500 you are notalready covered bytravel insur- recommendedcident insuranceishighly if ing onthesizeof thevehicle). Personal ac- rental rate (countonF$22toF$30depend- car-rental companiesadditontothedaily Third-party insuranceiscompulsoryandall INSURANCE % scooters/125cc motorcycles. ataroundF$35/60for start in Fiji.Rates and scooters are notabadwaytotravel notwidelyavailable,Although motorcycles Rental Car Thrifty Hertz in Suva3315899,Taveuni 8880291) 3479299, airport 6722636,Nausori 881 1999,Nadiairport aCar Budget Rent 3478963, inSuva3313833) airport 2233, Nausori aCar Avis Rent Green Turtle Tours Turtle Green Feejee Experience cluding twopopularbackpacker options. and Yasawas are popular (see p185 ). to theouter islandssuch astheMamanucas kayaking, diving,busand4WDtours. Cruises within thecountry,includinghiking, cycling, Fiji hasmanycompaniesproviding tours Tours fine inSuvait’slikely tobearoundF$2. passengers. Should youpickupaparking beltsare compulsoryforfront-seat pace. Seat humps toforcedrivers torespect thevillage 20km/h intowns.Many villages have speed limitis80km/h,which The speed dropsto Driving isontheleft-handsideof theroad. ROAD RULES Grantham Rd,Nabua) Viti Levu has themajority ofViti Levu tours, in- 672 1471;QueensRd,Martintar (www.hertz.com; (www.hertz.com; (www.avis.com; (www.thrifty.com; (www.thrifty.com; ( have inthegamefor been ( (www.budget.com.fj; % % % 672 0097;www.feejeeexperi 672 8889;www.greenturtle Nadi airport 6723466, Nadi airport www.lonelyplanet.com % ;

Beat Rentals Beat Rentals Suva Nadi airport 672 Nadi airport %

% % Nadi airport Nadi airport in Labasa 338 5355; ( Nadi

www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above-‘Doright thetermsandconditionsonoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords,pleasedon’tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,accessthischapter isnotdigitally Tomake © LonelyPlanetPublications

217

TAB5 TAB4 FIJI TAB2 TAB1