SPRING / SUMMER 2018 - N° 1 ENGLISH FRANÇAIS

NICE TO MEET YOU

A SUMMER IN FRESHWATER

POOLS AND BEACHES With advice from the epicurean writer Roland Jaccard and The Lausanne guide Page 42 recommendations of places to go from blogger Sofia Clara

PLATEFORME 10, THE CULTURAL RADIOGRAPHY OF THE THE ARCHITECTURAL SITE OF THE CENTURY CGN FLAGSHIP MODERNISM OF LAUSANNE Page 6 Page 24 Page 36 THE SECRETS OF THE CITY

EDITORIAL

Linking residents and tourists When it comes to singing the praises of Lausanne, the dulcet tones of a Vaudois accent can’t be beaten. But if you listen, you soon come to understand that people speak many languages there. The city has become internationalised, especially with the impetus of its major universities, its multinationals, and even its Olympic institutions and sports federations.

To show off this multiple identity, Lausanne Tourism wanted to create a new kind of welcome magazine which builds a bridge, and sometimes reverses the perspective, between insiders and visitors. The Lausanner is the product of this approach, where points of view, paths and flavours cross like they would in a marketplace. Its name is a nod to the residents of other cities: New Yorker, Londoner, Zuricher. Most of all, it pays homage to how we name the people of Lausanne in German-speaking Switzerland and in the Anglo-Saxon world.

Whether you’re from here or somewhere else, a passing guest or a resident, The Lausanner aims to tell you of the city’s history and heritage in an unexpected way. A city that, as noted by the architect Vincent Mangeat (p. 36), was first built on the shores of the lake, before spreading to the hills in anticipation of potential enemies. Later on the incomparable view became a touristic asset.

The Lausanner also talks in detail about the various dramas that have enthralled the city, such as the future museum hub on the periphery of the station, which has monopolised Lausanne’s cultural news for several years (p. 6). Above all, The Lausanner aims to provide an endless source of recommendations of places to go from a wide range of experts. The Lausanner, published in French and English every six months, will help you explore this unique geographic location, between lake and mountain, where the “papet”, a traditional Vaud dish, and biotech exist in happy harmony.

2 1 All aboard! With Marylou Dubelly Reymond, former #LAKEXCEPTION police officer and Lausanne public transport conductor in the 1980s when the buses were orange!

IMPRESSUMThe Lausanner, a tourist welcome magazine and Sedrik Nemeth (P. 62, 74) - Caroline Corajoud (P. 84) - Guy Perrenoud (P. 84) - Elise information about life in Lausanne Heuberger (P. 77) - Thomas Ebert (P. 77) - Jeanne Quattropani (P. 77) - Amélie Blanc (P. 77) - F. Beaud-Cedotc (P. 75) - Ryosuke Takahashi (P. 21) - Christian Monin Editorial: (P. 43) - Ville de Lausanne (P. 44) - Catherine Gailloud (P. 50) - Lucas Girardet Lausanne Tourisme (P. 51) - Marino Trotta (P. 56, 77) - Laurent Ryser (P. 60) - CIO/Lydie Nesvadba (P. 71) Direction: Image search: Steeve Pasche, Jannick Schallenberger Sabrine Elias Ducret, Joëlle Kercan Editorial production: Cover: LargeNetwork Photograph of Sofia Clara and Camille Chardon Graphics: by Nicolas Schopfer Saentys Advertising: Editor-in-chief: Michel Chevallaz Sylvain Menétrey, LargeNetwork +41 79 213 53 15 YOUR CRUISES Production: Printing: Jannick Schallenberger Gremper SA, Basel Available in French and in English Writing: ACROSS Julien Calligaro, Robert Gloy, Blandine Guignier, Melinda Marchese, Writing, administration and announcements: Nina Seddik, Céline Stegmüller, William Türler, Odile Valmont Lausanne Tourisme Av. de Rhodanie 2 Photography: Case postale 975 Nicolas Schopfer (P. 5, 36, 49, 52) - NotreHistoire.ch/Marylou Dubelly Reymond CH-1001 Lausanne LAKE GENEVA (P.2) - PLATEFORME 10/Estudio Barozzi Veiga (P. 6)­ - Jean-Bernard Sieber (P. 9) T. +41 21 613 73 73 - Matthieu Gafsou (P. 10) - Nora Rupp, Musée cantonale des Beaux-Arts de www.lausanne-tourisme.ch Lausanne (P. 11) - Odile Meylan/24heures (P. 15) - A bout de souffle, Jean-Luc e-mail : [email protected] Godard/Bibliothèque des classiques du cinéma (P. 16) - Collection particulière de Luciana Bazzanella, Lausanne (P. 17) - Collection Cinémathèque suisse. All rights reserved. (P. 17) - AFP (P. 18) - Thierry Parel (P. 19) - Sylvain Menetrey (P. 19, 54–56) - François Wavre/lundi13 (P. 20) - Musée de l'Élysée, Lausanne (P. 21) - Hervé Annen (P. 22, 57, 58) - Fabrice CoffriniI/AFP (P. 26) - Christian Merz/Keystone (P. 27) - Yves Printed in Switzerland Herman/Reuters (P. 27) - Jean-Paul Pelissier/Reuters (P. 27) - Tiziana FABI/AFP INFOLINE +41 (0) 900 929 929 (CHF 0.50 /MIN.) (P. 27) - Lucy Nicholson/Reuters (P. 31) - Cécile Gretsch/Saentys (P. 32, 34, 64, 78) - Cédric Widmer (P. 38) - Gerald Bosshard/Tribune de Genève (P. 41) - Aurélien With the support of: Barrelet/Largenetwork (P. 24–27, 45) - Patrimoine suisse (P. 46) - Archives RTS (P. 47) - Ville de Pully (P. 48) - Autorités de la Confédération suisse (P. 54–55) © Photos Lausanne Tourisme – LT/www.diapo.ch (P. 69, 67, 68, 56, 65, 69, 72, 73, 75, 77) - LT/Laurent Kaczor (P. 65, 67, 68, 69, 71, 72, 73, 75, 80, 88) - LT/ C.Jaccard – www.vaud-photos.ch (P. 68) - Christof Schuerpf (P. 68, 67) - Urs Achermann (P. 68) - Mobimo/Catherine Leutenegger Photography (P. 68) - Switzerland Tourism/Markus Buehler (P. 68) - Filigrane SA (P. 71) - Sarah Jaquemet (P. 73) - Suisse Tourisme Office du tourisme du canton de Vaud CGN.CH 2

CGN-18-7250_Visuel bateau_Annonces FR_ENG_A5_PROD3.indd 2 07.05.18 14:14 CONTENTSSUMMER 2018 - N° 1

CONVERSATION IN THE CITY Platforme 10: Hatching an arts district Page 6

AROUND LAUSANNE New addresses Page 13

5 The pralinated “Giscard”: president’s cute indulgence WEEKENDS Page 18 INTERVIEW CULTURELS Infographics: Architectural walk with the secrets of the boat “La Suisse” Vincent Mangeat ET GRATUITS Page 24 Page 36 ENTRE PARCS Andrea Kucera, BY THE WATER ET RIVES confederate Lausanner The pools and beaches Page 32 Page 42

DU 20 JUILLET James Larus, SCENIC STROLL AU 19 AOÛT 2018 expatriate Lausanner In pursuit of Flon, Page 34 a ghost river MON-REPOS, MILAN Page 54 VALLÉE DE LA JEUNESSE L’HERMITAGE, VALENCY DO NOT FORGET…

BELLERIVE ET MONTHERON FAVRE MALIKA ILLUSTRATION ALAFOLIE.CH- The old industrial district of Sévelin reinvents itself as a cultural oasis Page 57

NOT TO BE MISSED TOUTE LA PROGRAMMATION SUR: Iconic Lausanne locations WWW.LAUSANNE.CH/LESGARDENPARTIES Page 64 #GARDENPARTIESLAUSANNE

4 5 LALHE18-Garden-Ann TheLausanner 148x210mm.indd 1 01.05.18 15:19 CONVERSATION IN THE CITY

THE SAGA OF LAUSANNE’S NEW ART

Bernard Fibicher’s excitement is palpable as he runs This relocation has been causing headaches for and zoology museums or the Cantonal and DISTRICTThree of Lausanne’s museums a finger over the plans. He explains the intracies authorities at both cantonal and local level for University Library of Lausanne, to shine instead. are moving soon to new of the new building which is to house Lausanne’s 27 years. “Back in 1924, Emile Bonjour – who was Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts, the Musée des the director at the time – was already saying It is about to stage a dazzling comeback. On a premises on the same site Beaux-Arts de Lausanne. The director has survived that the premises at the Palais de Rumine were 22,000 sq m site near the station, which used to see what his two predecessors dreamed in vain too small!” Fibicher explains. This lack of space to house train concourses, construction on the near the station. This bold of achieving during their respective terms in office: has always restricted the institution, depriving new building will finish in spring 2019. A second architectural and cultural the relocation of the museum to premises that are it of a permanent exhibition. The director building will be built alongside it by 2021, where more befitting of its standing. “I’m glad it’s happened gives us an example: “We own the biggest the Musée de l’Élysée photography museum and venture, the only one of its kind at the end of my career, as when I visit museums public collection of Félix Vallotton’s work in the the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied around the world I’m almost looking more at their world, but it is hidden away in our archives”. Arts (mudac) will also be taking up residence. in Switzerland, is materialising architectural details than the art,” laughs Fibicher, In its northern wing of the Palais de Rumine, after more than 20 years of who has nevertheless just achieved an artistic the museum appears far too modest, almost As a taster of things to come, the MCB-A team masterstroke in scheduling the superstar Ai Weiwei fading into the background and allowing the has designed an initial exhibition, which will be political horse-trading. for a closing exhibition at the Palais de Rumine. space’s other tenants, such as the geology launched before the work is finished. At the end of

The1841 Cantonal The1906 museum moved to “I1991 don’t have a museum, I have a Museum of Fine Arts the recently-built Palais palace!” seethed museum director was founded, which de Rumine. Jörg Zutter when an ingress of water back then was named damaged the artwork. The Council after the painter of State of Vaud professed a wish Marc-Louis Arlaud. for the institution to be relocated. By Sylvain Menétrey TIMELINE

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NEW MCB-A: SOUTH FAÇADE

Permanent North side Temporary exhibition entrance exhibition

Administration Restaurant Old locomotive Library shed’s façade

the summer, between 31 August and 9 September, a view over the lake, this wall is entirely blind. “This Plateforme 10’s six unfinished canvases and sketches from the is because of a demand that the insurers made a troika: Chantal artist Balthus will create a dialogue with the while ago. They require the artwork to be protected Prod’hom, director still-raw surfaces of the building’s construction from any rail accidents…although such demands 10 PLATEFORME of mudac; Bernard Fibicher, director site. And it is American choreographer and are not made for residential buildings with people of MCB-A; Tatyana stage director Bob Wilson who will oversee living in them,” sighs Christophe Catsaros, chief Franck, director of the Musée de the exhibition’s installation. This smart move editor of Tracés, Lausanne’s architecture magazine. l’Élysée. showcases an artist from whom the museum has received several donated works over the past More open, with a large fissure running the few years, whilst also scratching the public’s length of its circumference, is the future itch to get a glimpse inside the new premises. museum centre’s second building, designed by Museum Island in Berlin and MuseumsQuartier in Lausanne into one of the country’s leading cities Portuguese brothers Manuel and Francisco Aires Vienna. The size of the complex is no match for of culture, despite fierce regional competition The fresh new architecture firm Barozzi Veiga, Mateus, which completes the site beautifully. “It its Austrian counterpart, however, which brings from Basel, Zurich and Geneva. Authorities are based in Barcelona, will be making their mark on counterbalances the more enclosed nature of the together six institutions in a space of 60,000 sq m. counting on reaching 250,000 visitors a year. the enormous space, which is 145.5 metres long and first building,” Catsaros says. Come 2021, the Musée Nevertheless, it shares the same goal of creating An ambitious number when compared to the 22.1 metres high. The parallelepiped is sure to stand de l’Élysée, which specialises in photography, a lively area that is full of things to do, even three museums’ current cumulative total of out, with grey brick walls creating a subtle surface and mudac (Museum of Contemporary Design after hours and on Sundays. Cafes, bookshops, 100,000. “Lausanne station is growing fast, effect and slats peppering the northern façade. and Applied Arts) are to share this space. possibly galleries, and a range of services are to with 40 million annual users, which means it The purpose of these slats is to slice through the add the finishing touches to the three museums, has fantastic potential for us,” says Fibicher. The incoming light, whilst also dramatizing the interior This gathering of institutions has been christened tucked into the arches that already surround director also wants to attract travellers who miss lighting by night. To the south, facing the railway, Plateforme 10, in reference to the tenth track that the site. An architecture foundation called CUB, their train, and get them to come and admire a the building features the old railway hall’s listed it forms alongside the railway, and will be the only for Culture du Bâti, comprising offices and an few paintings, or one of the museum’s floors, while arch as a reminder of the site’s industrial past. But one of its kind in Switzerland. It has been compared exhibition space will round off the cultural side they wait for the next one. “That’s why we want to apart from this opening, and a high window with to internationally-renowned projects such as of Plateforme 10 by 2025. The aim is to make make it free to visit the permanent collection.”

Former1997 State Councillor André Gavillet raised A2001 review board ruled out the The2005 winning project from the architecture The2008 disenchantment % for the Bellerive project the idea of acquiring the old Crédit Foncier Chauderon building for being too competition for the lakeside museum was presented: was registered: 52 of Vaud citizens said no Vaudois building in Chauderon with a view to expensive and its ceiling too low, a polygon resembling a multifaceted rock, reflected to financing it in a referendum. This was most making it a home for the Cantonal Museum eyeing instead a new site next to in the lake next door to the Bellerive pool. The notably down to a displeasing appearance of Fine Arts. An estimate for the work put it at the lake. Exciting. mastermind behind this project was an architectural and the chosen site, which residents around 60 million Swiss francs. practice from Zurich: Berrel, Wülsel and Kräutler. wanted to protect from “concreting”.

8 9 CONVERSATION IN THE CITY

Exhibition view of Félix Vallotton and Alex Katz at MCB-A in 2013. The Lausanne Museum has the largest collection of Vallotton’s works in the world.

MUSÉE CANTONAL DES BEAUX-ARTS DE LAUSANNE (MCB-A)

Place de la Riponne 6 Currently shut — MUSÉE DE L’ÉLYSÉE So what does this permanent collection that is collection may be small, but it contains some finally to be shown to the public actually contain? exquisite pieces. “I am absolutely delighted to see In addition to several valuable pieces from masters this history of Vaud art finally exhibited. I hope that 18, avenue de l’Élysée such as Cézanne, Courbet, Renoir and Rodin, the links will be traced right up to contemporary Hours : Tuesday to Sunday and leading contemporary artists like Bruce painters like Nicolas Party, who draws his inspiration From 11 am → 6 pm Nauman, Christian Boltanski and Sophie Calle, from Vallotton.” The museum makes no secret of the — the museum will exhibit its significant collection fact that there are gaps in its historical catalogue MUSÉE DE DESIGN ET of art from the Vaud region. Vallotton of course, – particularly from the historical avant-garde D’ARTS APPLIQUÉS as well as Louis Soutter, René Auberjonois and period, cubism, dadaism and surrealism – and CONTEMPORAINS (mudac) Charles Gleyre. “This academic painter attracted hopes to be able to benefit from the campaign for 1 million visitors at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris last donations and long loans from private collectors Pl. de la Cathédrale 6 year, with a significant proportion of the work that the unfavourable location of the Palais de Hours : Tuesday to Sunday loaned by our museum,” says Fibicher cheerfully. Rumine has prevented it from running until now. From 11 am → 6 pm The haul is off to a great start since, in addition to Open Monday to Sunday For Katharina Holderegger, art historian and critic the donation of five Balthus canvases, the museum in July and August for the magazine Kunstbulletin, the museum’s is to host the Toms Pauli foundation, which owns

The2010 Vaud Council of State The2011 BLEU project from Catalan Funding2014 of 44 million Swiss The2015 Aires Mateus architectural The2016 name thought of creating a architects Fabrizio Barozzi and francs was approved by practice won the competition for “Plateforme 10” museum centre in the CFF Alberto Veiga was announced the canton for work on the the two museums which were to was announced. halls next to the station. the winner of the competition museum centre. complete the site. The final objections Work began. for the new Cantonal Museum of to the public survey were removed. Fine Arts.

10 10 11 CONVERSATION IN THE CITY

an exceptional catalogue of European tapestries de l’Élysée was perfect when we were showing th dating back to between the 16th and 19 centuries. 30–40 cm prints there, but it doesn’t suit modern- day photography anymore. mudac is a maze of A programme of temporary exhibitions will run unmanageable rooms. We put the idea forward alongside the permanent collection. All in all, together, and soon had plenty of people on board”. Around lausanne these will cover 1,200 sq m of space, including one enormous room measuring 750 sq m on its own. Plateforme 10 now needs to respond to this initial Another 250 sq m room will exhibit the work of vision with an artistic approach on the same young artists. The museum’s budget will be doubled wavelength. “The architecture competition allowed THE JAPANESE TEA DRINKERS’ CLUB to get this exhibition programme up and running. us to look further afield. We need someone now Reminiscent of a speakeasy, this tiny space draws on who is a world leader in their field to inject their Japanese culture and unusual Japanese teas to offer a This increase follows several years of deadlock. ideas into the museum centre as a whole”, Keller drinking experience like no other. Particularly after the public rejected the project for says. And it may well be that that providential a new fine arts museum next to the lake in Bellerive figure rides in astride the site’s iconic piece. Behind your average teabag lurks a world of unexpectedly (see “timeline”). Far from discouraging the powers Christened “Crocodile”, this collaborative work sophisticated flavours. A Japanese tea room opening in that be, this refusal made way, several months between French artist Xavier Veilhan and the Lausanne provides the perfect opportunity to delve deeper. The later, for the current – and clearly more ambitious Swiss OIivier Mosset pays homage to the 6/8II uninitiated among us will be as flummoxed by the menu, with – museum centre project to emerge. Pierre Keller, locomotive. Made out of painted metal, the its lists of appellations, as we would be by the terroirs of fine the former director of ECAL, was on a committee 18-metre masterpiece links the site’s industrial past wines. All, however, materialise in the form of hot tea, iced tea, formed by the City of Lausanne to look at new to its artistic future. It also seems to paint a most matcha, frappés, hot chocolate, smoothies and classic sweet strategies. “I visited this CFF site, which I thought was favourable picture of the collaboration between treats, available to either have in or take away. Lessons in origami fantastic,” he remembers. “I said to Silvia Zamora, two artists with separate careers who came and Japanese complete the experience. The little tea room who was the city minister for culture at the time, that together for the purpose of this competition. An was made possible thanks to crowdfunding and the dedication we should bring all three museums together there, attitude from which the entities of the Plateforme 10 of its managers, couple David and Tomoko. Former residents which she thought was a wonderful idea. The Musée initiative would do well to draw inspiration from. of Japan, a land famous for its tea, they return there regularly to take part in training and bring back products. The couple Marutcha, have also published a book on the Japanese writing system. Rue de la Grotte 4, Lausanne NEW PLACES NEW THE REBIRTH OF THE DISUSED BUILDINGS

THE CREATION OF PLATEFORME 10 for the Vaud Council of State. an area for temporary exhibitions, MEANS THAT THREE BUILDINGS The Élysée’s idyllic gardens will and venues for communication, CONCEPT STUDIO HAVE BECOME AVAILABLE. SOLID remain open to the public. outreach, debating and press Les Gens opened its doors in autumn 2017. PROGRESS IS BEING MADE ON conferences, as well as leisure space.” It is a space like no other, comprising both RECLASSIFICATION PROJECTS. The fate of the Maison Gaudard, a workshop and a boutique store stocking the former prefecture which will In terms of the wing occupied by around 20 local brands. “They should make the Élysée continue to house mudac until MCB-A in the Palais de Rumine, logic the residence of the President of 2021, is also sealed. “It will stay dictates that it should be returned Clambering up Rue du Valentin may seem like Vaud!” jokes Keller, in reference to open to the public, and actors in the to the other organisations in the a lot of effort, but it’s worth it to discover this the Lausanne building’s Parisian cultural sector,” confirms head of building. But it would appear that collaborative space, with jewellery, sweets, namesake. And only partly in the Lausanne culture department, other plans – still very much in their clothing, books and even botanical creations on jest, as the elegant 18th-century Michael Kinzer. “We envisage a infancy – are also being considered. display. The association which manages the hub mansion is already and will continue building full of offices for various aims to showcase the work of local young artisans to be used as a reception venue festivals, work and coworking spaces, and promote a transdisciplinary approach to art, providing a space in which they can both craft and sell their designs. A “Versatile Space” adds the finishing touches to the site, giving artisans somewhere to run classes and acting as a venue Opening2019 of MCB-A. Opening2021 of the for other events put on by this hive of creativity. Musée de l’Élysée and mudac.

Les Gens, Rue du Valentin 28, Lausanne www.lesgens.ch

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CLOUD SOCIAL CLUB Switzerland has recently legalised cannabis containing a minimal amount of THC. Cloud Social Club fans are commercialising the variant dubbed CBD or cannabidiol, another dynamic substance of the pleasant herb that relaxes without intoxicating. The shop’s shelves display carefully selected Swiss products. They include weed to smoke, oil, or candy.

Cloud Social Club Chemin du Levant 1, Lausanne www.cloudsocialclub.ch NEW PLACES

NEW PLACES NEW L’INSTANT B B is for burger or bruschetta at chef Serge Labrosse’s new creative street food restaurant.

L’instant B Rue du Petit-Chêne 11, Lausanne www.instantb.ch GREEN AND FRESH TASTIES Meat is off the table at Bad Hunter, the brainchild of two young interior designers from the Geneva School of Art and Design, where the menu is as green as the cascading decorative foliage. While they wait for a Tibits outlet to open in Lausanne station, vegetarians and their friends can come CAFÉ LOUVE here to enjoy a steamed, superfood-rich Café Louve has been given a makeover, with a feast in this old workshop building in Flon. new black-and-white mosaic tile floor. Stop by after work for drinks and electronic music. The terrace is bathed in sunlight between 11 am and 6 pm. Bad Hunter Rue des Côtes-de-Montbenon 12 www.badhunter.ch Café Louve Place Pépinet 1, Lausanne

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Jean Seberg and Claude Rich in Un milliard dans un billiard by Niklaus THE CITY Gessner (1965). OF PRETTY WOMEN Lausanne’s women are renowned as the most beautiful. Jean-Luc Godard states this in his film À bout de souffle (Breathless).

“The only cities where every girl you pass in the street is pretty [...] I’m not talking about Rome, or Paris, or Rio de Janeiro; I’m talking about Lausanne and Geneva.” ETHNOGRAPHY It was this conversation between Jean- Paul Belmondo and Jean Seberg in the 1960’s film Breathless that led to the birth of a legend; the one surrounding the beauty of the women who call Lausanne (and secondarily Geneva) their home. ETHNOGRAPHY The creator of this dialogue, director Jean-Luc Godard, knew a thing or two about it: he rubbed shoulders with these very girls back in 1949, while studying for his baccalaureate at Lemania College.

So, what’s behind this reputation? One explanation may be the shapely legs of the city’s female (and male) inhabitants. The city has a difference in elevation of 500 metres – particularly noticeable along the pavements of Rue du Petit-Chêne – to thank for these sculpted calves. The supporting evidence is just as ample: since the 1950s, almost a dozen girls from the Vaud region have won the Miss Switzerland beauty pageant. One of the girls, Lauriane Gilliéron, was 2nd runner-up in the 2006 Miss Universe contest, going on to become a Hollywood actress under the name of Laurie Anne Gill. Women of Lausanne heading towards the central train We’re willing to bet that in a former life she station in the 1960s, most likely wouldn’t have looked too bad in front of unaware of the international the New Wave director’s camera, either. reputation Jean-Luc Godard’s film granted them.

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An everlasting restaurant

Here we check The “Giscard”, out the Café de choice chocolate topped with l’Europe, where almonds. young intellectuals, politicians and travellers waiting for trains mingle in its special ambiance. You’ll eat well for little at the Café de l’Europe: röstis, grilled sausages and fondue are all on the menu. A dish of the day is available, which Valéry Giscard brings variety to the typical Vaud brasserie d’Estaing, who had his favourite cuisine. But people go to the Café de l’Europe confectionery first and foremost because it is one of the last delivered to the Élysée Palace neighbourhood bistros in Lausanne, hidden in between 1974 the shadows on the Rue de Simplon under the and 1981. railway tracks emerging from the station. With its crocheted white net curtains, ubiquitous wooden surfaces and polished tables, it is almost a museum display of a restaurant from days gone by. “For some people, the Café de l’Europe is a social sanctuary. They wouldn’t A confectioner’s sweet fortune know where else to go. They sit and comment ordering whole boxes of them from fondly on both the people who pass by, and Madame Wuthrich each Christmas those who come in”, says television presenter from a president’s indulgence during his time as president. Michel Zendali, one of the many regulars. An exquisite Lausanne delicacy The Wuthrich sweet shop sits some distance from is named after Valéry Giscard the hustle and bustle of the city centre, tucked The confectioner’s stroke of genius The Café de l’Europe is one of those restaurants d’Estaing. The “Giscard” away under a green canvas canopy bearing the was to get the president’s approval where people play cards, chat – cheerfully, was created by the Wuthrich eponymous signature. The tea room’s polished to rename the chocolate in his seriously, eagerly – shout from one table to confectionery, which sells a world decor appears forever reminiscent of the 1980s. honour. Egon Kopp, who took over another and joke around with the waitress, the renowned chocolate scoop. the sweet shop in 1990, never famous Malou, who has been there for nearly Menu-wise, Wuthrich turns out a wide range of sinful reveals production figures for 30 years. Since 2015, Laurent Degardin has delicacies, both sweet and savoury. Top of the list is fear of jealousy, but we do know been responsible for keeping the place going their trump card: a praline covered in liquid caramel that deliveries of the famously- and nurturing its delicate ecosystem. The City and ganache, topped with an almond tuile. Originally named chocolate are sent all of Lausanne owns the premises and wants called the “Rigoletto”, no-one really knows when Jean over the world. Their most famous to showcase its heritage and local produce Wuthrich created this delectable mouthful, with its crispy enthusiast also continues to treat with a logo flagging the establishment. crunch, effortless layers of sweetness and milk and dark himself on a regular basis. chocolate varieties. It was thanks to French politician and future president Valéry Giscard d’Estaing that these Café de l’Europe pralines rose to international fame. He discovered them Wuthrich Sweet Shop, Rue du Simplon 33, Lausanne during a visit to Lausanne and promptly fell in love, Avenue Juste-Olivier 11, Lausanne www.cafedeleurope.ch

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Gardens of Freshening up a Lausanne: grand old lady % The statue of the Fontaine de la Justice, sculpted in 1585 and made fragile by time and 100 the elements, was spruced up and repainted in 1905. This organic was when the pastor Paul Vionnet immortalised it at

SERGE MURISET, GARDENER the restoration workshop. The FOR THE CITY PARK SERVICES photography pioneer roamed the region with his camera, and his work makes up a large part of the photographic memories of the canton of Serge Muriset continues more. We call them “intensive” to go easy on people: most of Vaud. In 1896, he created what beds because they take a lot what I do is about prevention. would become the Vaudois to help the city bloom. STREET VIEW His eco-friendly methods of looking after, and need to Iconographic Collection, from include cow horn fertiliser. be planted up twice a year. Is it true that you use cow horn which this photo is taken. Environmental concerns have as fertiliser? Interview by Odile Valmont grown over the past few years, Yes, that was part of the City The famous blindfolded and we are focusing more of Lausanne’s big organic allegory for justice that sits Geraniums, begonias, marigolds, on perennials and extensive movement a few years ago: ETHNOGRAPHY on the Place de la Palud fuchsias... Mid-May saw gardening to reflect this. Take we don’t use any synthetic today is, in fact, a copy Lausanne’s gardeners planting the funicular line not far from chemicals at all in the upkeep from 1930. The original is the summer beds of the famous here for example, which is of municipal parks nowadays. in the Musée historique floral clock in Ouchy. Heading known as the “green belt”: By the way, although we say de Lausanne. The transfer up the team working on the around half the space along “cow horn”, it’s actually made of happened after the venerable lakeside section, with 30 years each side of the line is covered cattle carcasses that have been statue was subjected to of service behind him, was in blocks of grassland. recovered and crushed up. It’s a acts of vandalism. team leader Serge Muriset. We very common type of fertiliser. caught up with him on the pier And is the fauna in Lausanne’s to discuss plants and people. parks as different now as the Do you have a favourite plant? flora? What’s changed for you Not really. But when the Isn’t Ouchy’s floral clock getting over the past 30 years? ginkgo trees in the green belt a bit old fashioned now? The I see more dads with their kids... are in flower towards the end gardens in other parts of town and more greasy paper on of the summer I think that have changed a lot over the the floor. The rise of fast food looks magical. All the yellow past few years… can really be seen in the parks. looks just like gold. In fact, the Serge Muriset: The floral clock The result of this is that I was ginkgo tree is also known as is kind of like the town’s calling a gardener before; now I’m a “the tree of forty crowns”. card: it’s a bit of a landmark for gardener and a cleaner. I was tourists and visitors from across actually sworn in two years ago, A copy of the the border. It’s more about so it’s within my rights to fine statue in its original colours continuity than anything else. anyone who throws a cigarette with its double But you’re right – there aren’t butt on the ground, doesn’t have edged sword can been seen that many flowerbeds like this their dog on a lead or is caught at the Palud elsewhere in Lausanne any peeing up a tree. But the idea is fountain.

20 21 AROUND LAUSANNE

“Mozzarella is like bread;

Although named after Place as a young man I had no idea is like bread; it should be made it needs to de la Riponne, the Lausanne about “mozzerella di bufala”. and eaten on the same day. It market sprawls far beyond the I started importing it because never used to last longer than square itself, taking over the a customer asked me for it. My two days. It had more salt in be made and entire pedestrian area of the grandmother actually used it, which gave it more flavour city centre on Wednesday and to make mozzarella herself but also made it more delicate. Saturday mornings. In addition though, in her kitchen... People want cheese that is eaten on the to politicians looking to raise going to last at least a week, so their profiles and farmers, How did she do it? it got quite difficult to sell... butchers and vegetable The process itself isn’t difficult. same day” growers from the surrounding You make a curd and work it Apart from mass-produced countryside, it is also home to by hand in hot water to stretch mozzarella, which lasts a lot stands featuring more exotic it, then break it up to make longer! produce. Giovanni Padula, who different shapes – “mozzare” Yes, that’s a whole other story. I IN THE MARKETPLACE THE IN has been a market stalwart means “to cut off”, which is was in Coop the other day, and for the past 35 years, tells us where the name “mozzarella” I counted 36 different types of In each issue, The Lausanner about the sacrilege suffered by comes from. mozzarella! More mozzarella tells you about a stand Switzerland’s favourite cheese. is sold in Switzerland at the at the Lausanne market So it’s easy then? When is your moment than any other cheese, and the products on offer. How long have you had your mozzarella school opening in which is largely down to the Giovanni Padula kicks things Italian cheese stand in the Lausanne?! popularity of pizza. There are off with a recollection of his Riponne market? It’s harder than it looks! The two major mass-producers childhood mozzarella. IN THE MARKETPLACE Giovanni Padula: Since 1983. process is simple but there’s now supplying mozzarella in Italian vegetable farmers a lot of knowledge behind Switzerland, but even when it’s and cheese merchants are it, as well as lots of different Italian, the curd itself comes Interview by Odile Valmont everywhere nowadays, but back factors, like the quality of the from Germany. It is produced in then we were trailblazers. And water and the milk, which all Italy, and then sent on, grated we were the first to offer buffalo makes everything much more for example, to Germany or mozzarella. complicated. I say that from Switzerland... it’s seen the world! experience: in 2002, I started Is this the only real mozzarella? producing mozzarella locally, in No, absolutely not! Mozzarella Yverdon. But I gave it up after made from cow’s milk – known about 10 years: I still hadn’t as “fior di latte” – and buffalo managed to make anything milk mozzarella are just that was actually any good, or different varieties which come anything like the mozzarella I from two different regions. had back when I was a child... Fior di latte comes from Puglia and buffalo mozzarella is Are you sure you’re not looking from Campania, which is back at it through rose-tinted where Naples is. I grew up in glasses? the neighbouring region of (Laughs) I don’t think so, there Molise, in Upper Molise, and was something objectively when I arrived in Switzerland different about it. Mozzarella

22 23 Considered one of the most beautiful ships in the world, this famous ship crisscrosses the waters of Lake Geneva from April to October. CRUISING ON Visit this Belle Epoque masterpiece while it’s “LA SUISSE” at berth in the port of Lausanne-Ouchy. FLAGS THE FIGUREHEAD They represent the territories Is covered in that surround the lake: Vaud, gold leaves. Geneva, Valais and Savoie.

VENTILATION FUNNEL THE WHISTLE THE RADAR Essential for cooling down It sounds to signal the This is only used in bad the machine room. arrival of the boat. weather conditions.

LA SUISSE

THE WHEEL THE BELL The paddle wheel, dating The bell is a decoration, it was back to 1909, pushes the water previously used to signal the backward, thus allowing the presence of the boat in the Following page: boat to move forward. case of foggy weather. The three decks of the boat

24 25 The 850 life jackets on board are UPPER DECK THE BOAT OF stored in the benches in different THE CENTURY areas of the vessel. There are six cylinders at each Built in Winterthour by the side of the vessel. Each one Sulzer brothers company, the contains a lifeboat that can be impressive vessel was inflated in 30 seconds and holds commissioned on Tuesday, st 65 people at capacity May 31 1910. It is the largest steam ship on the lakes of The rescue boats are used to Switzerland. No ma er the retrieve any passengers who fall weather conditions during the overboard, each can hold up to summer, it carries tourists of 37 people. “la Belle Epoque” from one part of Lake Geneva to another and has undergone several renovations during the course of the last century. The historical salon in first class In 2007, an intensive historical MAIN DECK is considered one of the most study was done which allowed beautiful in the world. for the restauration of the vessel’s main hall to its original st A bed and desk can be found in state of 1 class maple wood. the captain’s cabin.

“La Suisse” can host 200 Mahogany was used to construct guests for dining and has the salon for second class space for 850 passengers. passengers. Thus, giving this hall The menu of the gourmet tour a darker look than the maple is accessible on www.cgn.ch used for first class. Reservations are advised. Mens, Womens, and disabled The ship has been classified as a historical monument by the toilets. canton of Vaud since 2011.

Two cabins, each containing a bed THE HOLD Freezer room

The boat is named Kitchen “La Suisse” but its prow sports French colors. The machine room is composed of a steam machine and boiler: it’s the heart of the vessel.

The Swiss flag flies at the stern, in other words at the back of the ship.

26 27 AROUND LAUSANNE

During his visit to Ai Weiwei in front of a drawing from his Lausanne’s Olympic exhibition "It’s Always The Others” at Museum, Emmanuel Lausanne’s Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts Macron walked in the in September 2017. footsteps of Pierre de Coubertin, the founder of the Olympic movement in Lausanne.

AI WEIWEI: AN AMBASSADOR FOR LAUSANNE ON INSTAGRAM A habitual photographer, Ai Weiwei posted an abundance of photos from his September 2017 Lausanne trip to his Instagram account. Most of which were selfies in the Zoology Museum. The superstar artist, who doesn’t have a diva bone in his body, was seen arriving on the metro to the vernissage of his exhibition at the Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts. Not only did this set the paps snapping – entry figures shot up, too. The “Ai Weiwei. D’ailleurs c’est toujours les autres” (Ai Weiwei. By the way, it’s always the others) exhibition

GAZETTE comfortably broke the record for visitor numbers to the museum, with a total of 106,500 visitors. GAZETTE Brigitte and Emmanuel Macron stay at

the Beau-Rivage TRADITIONAL FARE FOR ASAF AVIDAN, CHOCOLATE GUS VAN SANT AGAIN AND AGAIN FOR DEPARDIEU The Presidential couple stopped by Lausanne last summer. They came to On his way through Europe, The first time was at Bleu Lézard Emotions were running high support Paris’ 2024 Olympic bid. American film director Gus in 2010. Then at the Docks, during Gérard Depardieu’s Van Sant was treated to the in 2013 and 2015. Finally, the March 2018 concert at the French President Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brasserie Grand-Chêne’s broken-hearted Israeli singer Salle Métropole. The actor was Brigitte flew into Payerne military air base before signature dish at Lausanne opened last year’s Metropop performing songs from the dropping their luggage off at the Beau-Rivage and Palace: a plate of snails. He was festival on 9 November. “I repertoire of the famous “lady going to meet the Olympic Committee and the French in Lausanne last October for don’t usually remember in black”, Barbara. Before it was paparazzi outside the Olympic Museum. Dressed in a masterclass at the cantonal much about the cities that even over, the audience had matching outfits, the couple were accompanied by art school (ECAL) alongside I play in, but Lausanne is presented the artist with gifts Anne Hidalgo, the mayor of Paris. Their mission was to his retrospective at the Swiss different!” said the artist, who of chocolate and local wine. promote Paris’ 2024 bid to the Olympic organisation. Film Archive and an exhibition also has fond memories of at the Musée de l’Élysée. the Paléo Festival in Nyon.

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ELON MUSK INVITES EPFL ABOARD THE FUTURE TRAIN Covering the ground between Geneva and Zurich in just over a quarter of an hour – is it madness? Not for Elon Musk, the visionary American entrepreneur who is looking to revolutionise transport AMERICANS with his Hyperloop project. This futuristic train design would allow capsules to travel at speeds of over 1,000 km/h along a set of rails in an airless tunnel. It is a race for innovation, and EPFL is on FALLING board. The Lausanne university is one of 20 international teams selected to take part next July in the Hyperloop Pod Competition, a university competition organised by Elon Musk and his aerospace FOR VAUD company, SpaceX, in Los Angeles. The aim? To be the quickest to create a capsule prototype. The team from Vaud, christened An upturn in the economy, a love of the “EPFLoop”, will be made up of around 50 students from the Lausanne Vaud canton’s heritage and a targeted institute, and will include scientists, engineers and designers. media strategy: tourists to the region from the USA made a comeback in 2017.

They’re back! After a decade of “absence” (relatively speaking), the Americans are making FROM THE YOUTH OLYMPIC GAMES their way back to Switzerland, with the canton TO LONG-TERM USE of Vaud as their number one destination. They stayed a total of 125,000 nights in 2016, compared LAUSANNE NEWS Meet Vortex, a ring-shaped structure that is 27 metres high to 99,000 in 2012, placing them ahead of the and 430 metres in circumference: this bonafide architectural Italians, English and Chinese. The reasons behind challenge is the future student accommodation which has been this infatuation? The economic upturn in the built to the north of the Lausanne University campus. Before it States, the strengthening of the dollar against becomes home to a thousand university students in September the Swiss franc, and a spotlight on the Vaud 2020, however, it will be used as the nerve centre for the Youth region in 2016 thanks to an article in the New NEWS LAUSANNE Olympic Games, which are to take place in January of the same York Times. The famous daily placed the canton year. Around 1,700 athletes and their teams will be housed in of Vaud 25th in a ranking of 52 must-see places. this 36,700 sq m Olympic Village, which will receive 156 million Swiss francs in funding from the State of Vaud’s pension fund. And the regional tourist offices have used this media attention to their advantage. “We were already very active in terms of communication in the States, but we took advantage of this visibility to kick it up another notch,” explains Andreas A DESIGNER’S FRAGRANCE Bahholzer, manager of the Vaud canton tourist office. On the agenda are a number of press trips to After logos for Jay-Z, graphic designer from Lausanne Philippe promote the region’s art of living. This art of living Cuendet is having a change of direction and launching a fragrance. is one that enchants Americans, who are great fans His brand, Armes, was founded with Yves Rutiyomba and David of the rolling Vaud landscape, its heritage, and the Corminboeuf, and has ties to the famous Parisian nose, Barnabé cultural activities on offer here. The Charlie Chaplin Fillion, scent designer for Aesop and Paul Smith. The result of this museum, Chillon Castle, Lausanne Cathedral and olfactory collaboration is Equilibre F 96, inspired by one of the the region of Lavaux are all not to be missed. creative trio’s candles with fresh, woody and sophisticated notes. This comeback is met with unanimous approval It is exclusively available from Aegon + Aegon in Lausanne. Or, in the tourism industry. “Americans are respectful, via the vendor-like Instagram account for the Armes brand, which and take the time to find out about the region. spontaneously designs and markets a range of exclusive items. They spend quite a lot, too”, smiles Bahholzer.

Aegon + Aegon Rue du Tunnel 8, Lausanne www.aegonaegon.com

30 31 AROUND LAUSANNE

used to love going there to region, and of being Swiss, too. this, and very quick to express buy fruit and vegetables from how happy they are with regional farmers, and talking So the people of Lausanne are federalism and democracy. to them about the things they patriotic then? grew and brought along to French-Swiss people do tend You have just moved to Bern. sell. It was the perfect place to be. They are less keen on What parts of Lausanne did you to go if you wanted to hear all folk traditions like alphorns pack into your suitcase to take of Vaud’s various accents! and yodelling than the with you? German-Swiss; their patriotic A lot of contacts, who I am And what about the people side can be seen more in how sure will be very useful to me in that live here? they sing the praises of their my new role as parliamentary The city through I found the inhabitants of region and traditional cuisine, correspondent for the NZZ am Lausanne to be very kind, easy- as well as their institutions Sonntag, and my love of Lake going and welcoming. They and the Swiss political system. Geneva – I miss it already! the eyes of are also very proud of their They are very open about a political HER TOP PLACES TO GO

ANDREA KUCERA IS A JOURNALIST correspondent AT NZZ BAR “The perfect place to spend a morning LeBar Tabac reading the paper with jazz playing in the Rue Beau-Séjour 7, background.” SWISS OUTSIDER Lausanne +41 21 312 33 16

CAFE “A century-old place that is typical of La Couronne d’Or Lausanne, tucked away behind Place Rue des Deux-Marchés 13, de la Riponne.” SWISS OUTSIDER SWISS Lausanne +41 21 311 38 17 Andrea Kucera has lived in Pont Bessières, which is in the each, Lausanne only has one the Vaud region’s capital for same building as the Ringier central district surrounded TERRACE BAR “This ephemeral bar is a great place to four years. As the political press group editorial staff. by sprawling suburbs. Jetée de la compagnie dip your toes in the water and enjoy a fera correspondent for the Neue +41 77 400 60 18 mousse made with fish from the lake.” Zürcher Zeitung, she has You were the correspondent What was it about the city that observed its people, its for all of French-speaking you fell in love with? streets, and its values. Switzerland. What made you I was completely taken aback choose to live in Lausanne? by the topography of the place, RESTAURANT “A traditional Italian restaurant with a few By Melinda Marchese Geneva is too far out. For me, by its inclines and steep drops. L’Ulivo tables out on the pavement. Its location Lausanne is the region’s capital This unique geography makes Chemin de Couvaloup 13, near the police headquarters means it’s Andrea Kucera makes no – it’s in a better position for me Lausanne look like a big theatre Lausanne a great place to see the “Neapolitan secret of the fact that it took to cover all the French-speaking stage, with lots of different +41 21 544 66 82 Carabinieri” go marching past.” some time for her to fall in cantons. And since it’s got such backdrops all layered on top love with Lausanne. Originally a diverse landscape with the of each other. Whether you’re MUSEUM “I often visit this museum, which is the only from Zürich, the journalist, 36, Alps, the plateau and the lake, down on a bridge or up on a La Collection de l’Art Brut one of its kind in Switzerland. The work on lived and studied in Geneva the Vaud canton is basically a hill, there are so many different Avenue Bergières 11, display there is always very candid and before making this her home mini Switzerland. Over time I things to see, and the views are Lausanne sincere.” between 2013 and 2017. She have come to absolutely love always incredible. There is this +41 21 315 25 70 provided readers of Neue Lausanne and its surroundings, ever-present sense of openness. Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ) with although the layout did surprise OUTING “If you start out from Lutry and head behind-the-scenes daily me to start with. Unlike Geneva Did you have a favourite place? Through the Lavaux towards Grandvaux, this hike has some updates on political goings-on and Zürich, which have multiple I have great memories of my Vineyard Terraces mind-blowing views. You can buy wine in the city and French-speaking neighbourhoods in the city weekly wanders around the from self-service stations along the way.” Switzerland from her office on centre with a different vibe in market in the city centre. I

32 33 AROUND LAUSANNE

HIS TOP PLACES TO GO

ROLEX LEARNING “The refined lines of the building created CENTER by Japanese architects testifies to the Allée de Savoie, Ecublens Swiss Technical University of Lausanne Every day from: opening to the world.” 7 am to midnight

RESTAURANT “French cuisine, cosy décor: a classic.” Au Chat Noir Rue Beau-Séjour 27, Lausanne +41 21 312 95 85 An American CATHEDRAL “I love to hike up to the cathedral with Place de la Cathédrale my family when I visit Switzerland. It’s a Open from April to the walk one can’t miss out on.” in Lausanne end of September: JAMES LARUS, DEAN OF THE EPFL’S 9 am → 7 pm COMPUTER SCIENCES FACULTY October to the end of March: 9 am → 5.30 pm

CAFE “Particularly good for a drink or Sunday EXPAT Café de Grancy brunch.” Avenue du Rond-Point 1,

EXPAT Lausanne www.cafedegrancy.ch Dean at the School that the American is not soon fell in love with Lausanne of Computer and familiar with: from software and chose to live near the lake Communication Sciences at engineering to automatic bug in Vidy, close to EPFL and all EPFL, James Larus’ dazzling detection mechanisms, and the amenities. In the States career has brought him to even writing programming we used to travel miles. Here, the shores of Lake Geneva. languages, he’s seen it all. we really enjoy not having to He tells us about the walks to drive, being able to use efficient the cathedral and futuristic So what is this academic, public transport systems and to notice major similarities in be made faster and cheaper, What do you recommend that research that make up his with his impressive career, walking around the city. terms of the structure here, and and needs to consume less friends and family do here when life here in Lausanne. doing in Lausanne? Modest the staff. The university is also energy in data centres. they visit? and cheerful, he prefers to And what did you think thoroughly global-minded: the We walk into town and visit the Interview by Blandine Guignier emphasise how lucky he was of your new workplace, recent completion of the Rolex And what about your cathedral. We go to the market, to be offered the position of the EPFL campus? Learning Center with its clean contact with Swiss people? eat fondue, and visit a chocolate His CV is over 20 pages Dean in the School of Computer First I thought that it was nothing lines, designed by a Japanese They are sometimes said shop. An American couldn’t long, and is brimming with and Communication Sciences like an American university. architect, is testament to this. to be quite private. come to Switzerland and not eat distinguished names. James at the École polytechnique Lots of buildings have a very We’ve had completely Swiss cheese and chocolate – it Larus graduated from Harvard fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL). Swiss look about them – just What are your school’s the opposite experience. would be impossible! We also in 1980 with a Bachelor of Arts like a school of computer main areas of research? My wife took part in a few go to the art museums and in Applied Mathematics, going When you arrived in 2013, science that had been built by We are constantly delving into French–English tandems, and enjoy some wonderful views on to obtain his Master’s and what were your first impressions an architect from Lausanne new areas. We are currently quickly made herself some out across Lake Geneva, from PhD in Computer Science at of Lausanne? would. They are geometric and stepping up our research into Swiss friends. A student from Ouchy to the Lavaux Vineyard Berkeley. Having started out as Before we arrived, my wife and I regular in shape, and there is machine learning. As part of the Vaud region invited us Terraces. And, when our visitors an academic at the University were imagining ourselves living a lot of concrete about. The a very large-scale computer to go and meet her family have time for a longer trip to of Wisconsin, he joined Microsoft a traditional Swiss life out in technological foundations here lab, we are interested in who live in the mountains, in Switzerland, we go on one of in 1997. As a result, there are the countryside, or in a chalet at EFPL also seemed different to processing DNA sequencing Étivaz, for example. They are its legendary train journeys, few areas of computer science up in the mountains. But we me. But then I gradually started data. This process has got to incredibly friendly people. such as the Glacier Express.

34 35 INTERVIEW

Architectural walk through a finely constructed city Lausanne’s urban heritage goes back centuries. Giving us the low-down on the landscape and telling us his top picks is Vincent Mangeat, who has been a key figure in Swiss architecture for several decades.

Interview by Robert Gloy

The oldest streets and houses in Lausanne, formerly Lousonna, date back to the Roman days. Over time, residents also urbanised the area’s iconic hills and valleys. For architect Vincent Mangeat, building in those days was first and foremost a necessity dictated by survival and protection. But Lausanne is also home to some very characterful buildings which give it its visual identity. We take a walk with the esteemed architect to find out more about this architectural heritage.

You live in Nyon – what are your links to Lausanne? Vincent Mangeat: I lived here for a long time as I studied, and then later taught, at the EPFL. Even now, I mostly divide my time between Nyon and Lausanne. Career-wise, this city is important to me as I designed some student accommodation here in the Sous-Gare district in 2007. I also co-founded the Special School of Architecture (ESAR) in that same district, in the same year.

What buildings of note does the city have that you like to use as examples? I really love the station, which was built between 1911 and 1916. It’s the simplicity of its roof, and the elegance of the metallic structure: it’s not enough to just look at the front – people need to appreciate the whole thing. What is more, this great building belongs to everyone. It is a place of passage which remains as important th Vincent Mangeat, the now as it was back in the 19 century. Another 77-year-old architect incredible construction is the Grand-Pont. It was of the House of Writing th at Montricher, in his built in the early 19 century, and provides a link Nyon office. between the lower and upper districts of the city.

36 37 INTERVIEW

← VINCENT MANGEAT, HIS LIFE IN DATES BEL-AIR TOWER Architect: Alphonse Laverrière 1941: Born in Delémont (Jura). 1969: Graduated from the EPFL with a degree in Construction: 1931 architecture and founded his architectural firm in Nyon. Since 1990, he has managed the firm in Address: Place Bel-Air 1 partnership with his associate, Pierre Wahlen. Uses: Offices, shops and a 1985: Built the Nyon school. This was the first in a series performance hall (Métropole room) of learning spaces that he went on to create. 1990: Appointed as a professor of theoretical and applied Height: 78 metres architecture at the EPFL. He held this role until 2006. Why does he like it? 1999: Worked on the Ile Falcon bridge on “With a height that makes it the the A9 motorway towards Sierre (Valais). tallest skyscraper in Switzerland, 2013: Built the Maison de l’écriture in Montricher (Vaud) the Bel-Air Tower marks where the new for the Jan Michalski Foundation. This building was neighbourhoods begin. It is a symbol designed like a town, and became most well-known that links the old districts of Saint- for its white concrete canopy and suspended pods. François to the new ones in Chauderon.”

And what about the more recent Roman Museum is - ed. note), and not buildings? up high. That’s because this is where As a first example I’d like to mention the first constructions were built back in the Bel-Air Tower, which was built in 1931 Roman times. Incidentally, the concept by Alphonse Laverrière. Of course, the of admiring the view across the lake has nearly-80-metre high building is most not actually been around that long. That famous as Switzerland’s first skyscraper. may seem strange to us today, seeing But to me, the most important thing is to as the view over the lake is incredible, stress that there is real urban rationale especially from the cathedral. Although

VINCENT MANGEAT VINCENT behind this height. When it was being that was built during the Middle Ages, built, it was all about marking the it was only in the 19th century that entry into new neighbourhoods upon people found out about the views over leaving the Grand-Pont. So the tower the lake, and started to appreciate is a symbol, linking the old districts of them. Before that, they didn’t have the Saint-François to the new in Chauderon. time for that sort of thing: the idea of leisure just wasn’t developed enough. Another incredible building is the one that Jean Tschumi, Bernard Tschumi’s What do we learn about the expansion father, built for Vaudoise Assurances of the city by starting in Vidy? between 1952 and 1956. It sits between We learn that whilst they were part of the Parc de Milan and Lake Geneva. the Roman Empire, the inhabitants of Again, I love this building for how smart Lausanne felt safe. They lived by the lake, it is from an architectural point of view. near trade routes. This all changed in Since it’s on stilts, it doesn’t ruin the the Middle Ages: communities needed view across the lake, and it fits perfectly to protect themselves against potential into the urban landscape around it. invaders, and so needed to be in a more secure position. That is why the Many visitors are impressed by the view Lausannois went up the hill, as the height out over the lake, which can be enjoyed of it offered them natural protection. from a range of places. How would you tie this interest in the landscape into an Inhabitants then started to settle architectural tour? in the areas surrounding the city. If it’s the history of the town that we’re The geography of the place was after, we should start the visit by the complicated: it was full of valleys and lake in Vidy (where the Lausanne-Vidy divided by a major waterway, the

38 39 INTERVIEW

← Flon, which flowed all the way chosen based on its proximity VAUDOISE down into the lake. So the Flon to the Flon valleys, the city, ASSURANCES was the population’s lifeline, and the lake. The arrival of providing it with energy and the railway was also a major Architect: Jean Tschumi the means to transport goods. boost for development of the Construction: 1952–1956 From the Middle Ages onwards, land between the lake and the Address: Place de Milan 1 the city expanded more and station. This district, which is now more towards the west. It was called “sous-gare”, or “below Use: Administrative building following this expansion that the station”, is an excellent Art: The building houses a range the first urban subsets, the example of early urbanisation. of artwork, including sculptures, districts, started to appear. It was developed according mosaics and wall paintings from major Swiss artists such as Carlo to a plan which was designed Baratelli, Jacques Berger, Ödon And then came the railway... to allow each new building to Koch and Bernard Schorderet. As with all cities, the arrival of be integrated into the whole. If Why does he like it? the railway in the middle of you walk through this district, “I love this building for how the 19th century was a major you’ll notice that it has a very smart it is from an architectural growth accelerator. From harmonious feel. There aren’t point of view. Since it’s on stilts, it doesn’t ruin the view across the that moment on, Lausanne really any buildings that stand lake, and it fits perfectly into the became a modern city, with out: they work together to give urban landscape around it.” increasing contact with regions the district its identity. ■ further afield. As proof of this, more and more tourists began to arrive from places like Montreux and the Riviera. The location for the station was VINCENT MANGEAT VINCENT

← LAUSANNE STATION Architects: Monod & Laverrière and Taillens & Dubois

Construction: 1911–1916

Address: Place de la Gare

Style: Art Nouveau

Why does he like it? “Its roof, the elegance of the metallic structure, its simplicity: it’s not enough to just look at the front – people need to appreciate the whole thing.”

40 41 BY THE WATER

THE MAGIC

OFLausanne andWATER its surroundings are simply overflowing with beaches and swimming pools; they are places where you can bask in the sun, and spots to see and be seen. Here, writer Roland Jaccard, a knowledgeable enthusiast of these glamorous mating grounds, tells us about his favourite places to take a dip.

By Nina Seddik

Roland Jaccard (centre) poses with friends at the Montchoisi pool in the 1970s.

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BY THE WATER 4

HOW IS MONTCHOISI POOL MAKING WAVES

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4 BEACHES AND POOLS When people think of the Montchoisi pool they also inevitably think of its wave machine, which has been a major factor in the pool’s success. But how does it actually work?

1 A 380-volt motor 2 This force 3 The up and down 4 After 5 to 8 BEACHES AND POOLS AND BEACHES drives a 180-cm activates an movement of the minutes, the wheel, which underwater platform pushes guard turns the MONTCHOISI POOL Why Roland Jaccard creates a force. system of rods the water against motor off and loves this pool: and axles, which the bottom of the pool returns This pool is unusual in that it sits right in the “This place will always in turn moves the pool, which to normal. heart of Lausanne, and yet it still manages to remind me of my a platform. creates the wave. stay unspoilt by the hustle and bustle of the childhood friends, and my The different city roads. It is particularly well-known for its first stirrings of emotion. gradients of modernist architecture, and the wave machine I love the way it looks, slope in the pool that roils the water in the pools five times a day and how calm it is in the have an effect (see inset). After a few laps, the terrace is the stillness of the morning.” on the direction perfect place to sit and recharge your batteries. and power of And, if it’s a snooze in the sunshine that you’re the waves. after, then the vintage wooden sunloungers in the solarium are the place for you.

Piscine de Montchoisi Avenue du Servan 30, Lausanne +41 21 315 49 62 Number 8/4/25 bus: Montchoisi stop M1 Metro: Délices stop

Open: 24 May to 9 September 2018 www.lausanne.ch/montchoisi

44 45 BY THE WATER

“I am fascinated by the appearance of swimming pools”

Writer Roland Jaccard, a water lover, guides you to the sunny hot spots.

A psychologist, writer, literary critic and former journalist for French daily Le Monde, Roland Jaccard is first and foremost a great seducer and lover of women: most notably of actress Louise Brooks, to whom he devoted an entire biography. The dapper young man from Lausanne, who left for Paris in the 1970s, still has fabulous memories of a youth spent in and around the city’s swimming pools. He turned lazing about by the pool into an artform, documented by a mountain of photos and even a film produced by TV network Télévision suisse romande. BEACHES AND POOLS AND BEACHES

Roland Jaccard: “I was at the Montchoisi pool with my friends every day when I BELLERIVE POOL was a child. We loved playing music on the big old jukebox, swimming through Choosing between the pool and the beach is never going to be the waves, and jumping off the 10 metre easy. But with its two main pools, a paddling pool full of games diving board. As the years went on, what and direct access to the lake, Bellerive solves this dilemma in had been a playground for me and my the blink of an eye. A real institution in Lausanne, it has been friends became a place for seduction one of Romandy’s leisure hot spots since 1937. The complex and frivolity. With the sun, the heat and is extremely popular as a sunbathing spot, as well as for its the bodies, swimming pools are places impressive sports facilities: 20 ping-pong tables, two basketball where your senses come alive. Incidentally, courts, five beach volleyball courts, a water park out on the I’ve also used them as meeting places in lake and three diving boards, one of which is 10 metres high. most of my books. I’m fascinated by their Why he loves this pool: appearance, their geometry, and their “I love the solarium there. I think artificiality. And even over the course of the architecture of the place is the years they have stayed the same: like amazing: it’s very Bauhaus which little pockets of time that have stood still.” Piscine de Bellerive makes me incredibly happy.” Avenue de Rhodanie 23, Lausanne +41 21 315 48 60 Number 2 bus: Bellerive stop Photos from the film Open: 19 May to 9 September 2018 Promenades intérieures (1976) taken by Roland www.lausanne.ch/bellerive Jaccard for Swiss television.

46 47 BY THE WATER

PULLY-PLAGE POOL DID YOU KNOW? Its vast stretches of lawn and breathtaking views out over Lake Geneva make this a true oasis of calm. A lush green haven, this is a The “Kamikaze” During the off-season, great place to stretch out and bask in the water slide at the the lawns at the Pully sunshine, before taking a dip in the lake or one Renens pool (now pool become home of the two pools. The restaurant’s cosy, shaded terrace is the perfect spot to enjoy an aperitif AquaSplash) has an 18-metre freefall to La Planque des at the end of the day. The atmosphere there section where you can reach top speeds Tontons, a pop-up makes it almost feel like you’re on holiday. Piscine de Pully-Plage of 60 km/hour. restaurant in a 16-metre high teepee Chemin des Bains 6, Pully measuring 200 sq m. Why he loves this pool: +41 21 721 35 37 “I love spending an evening at the Pully pool Number 8 bus: Vignes stop Men’s Bath/Ladies’ when I’m in Lausanne. I play table tennis with the Bath. This distinction, regulars there every day. We are all from hugely Open: 10 May to 17 September 2018 which can be found 1,385 kilos of rubbish different socio-economic backgrounds, but come www.pully.ch along the beaches are piled high along together over our shared love of ping pong.” of Saint-Prex and Cully , is a the Pully-Villette stretch throwback to the 19th century. Back then, of shoreline. This is the workers used to come to the lake to wash result of the 2016 efforts of Net’Léman, – so, to avoid the men and the women an organisation which cleans the lake mixing, two different bathing areas and its shoreline over one weekend were created. every two years.

LUTRY BEACH

The beach at Lutry is probably one of the BEACHES AND POOLS AND BEACHES nicest in the region. With just a few strokes, you’re away from the shore and can admire the Lavaux vineyards in the distance. Its charm is also helped along by the nearby village of Lutry, and the friendliness of the local bar. Here you’ll find a summery offering of quick bites, with fondue on the menu for the chillier evenings. There are so many great things here that it attracts a large number of visitors. At weekends, it’s worth arriving either early in the morning or early evening to find a good spot.

Why Roland Jaccard loves this beach: “I love the little bar there, and it’s got a really nice vibe. It’s the perfect spot for grabbing a bite on the go.”

Plage de Lutry Chemin des Bains, Lutry Number 9 bus: Rive stop

Open all year round www.lutry.ch

48 49 BY THE WATER

MORATEL BEACH IN CULLY

Its location in the heart of the Lavaux region, with its vast expanses of lush greenery, has won the heart of many a Riviera resident. They start setting up camp there as soon as the first rays of A dip in Lake Geneva comes highly recommended, sun emerge, to read a book in the shade of one of Dive into clean water the magnificent trees or go for a swim in the lake. with regular checks made to confirm the high quality It’s easy to reach with great CFF links, and there’s of water at swimming sites. a bar there too. Good news for our four-legged friends: dogs on leads are allowed here as well! To ensure the quality of the explains Eric Raetz, a water the way that water treatment water at swimming sites, inspector for the canton. plants and sewage systems communes carry out checks work, we are now seeing Plage Moratel à Cully two to five times a year The quality of the water in the return of Chara, which Route de Moratel 22, Cully depending on how many the lake generally tends to be is a type of macroalgae, to CFF train: Cully stop people visit their beaches. quite high, and overall is far the bottom of Lake Geneva, “We take samples 30 cm from better than it was in the 1990s, which is a typical sign Open all year round the shoreline as that is where when there was a much higher that the water is clean. www.leman-plages.ch children – who are a high-risk concentration of phosphorus. population – go and swim,” Thanks to improvements in BEACHES AND POOLS where to find the beaches and swimming pools EACH WITH THEIR OWN BAR

Piscine de Montchoisi Jetée de la compagnie In spring, the ephemeral terraces come out of Piscine de Bellerive Plage de Saint-Prex hibernation. With so many BEACHES AND POOLS AND BEACHES spilling onto the streets, the Piscine de Pully-Plage Piscine de Renens city has a feel of the south.

Plage de Lutry Plage du Parc Louis Bourget AND ALSO... Plage Moratel à Cully La plage de Préverenges LA GALICIENNE Under the viaduc du Galicien (Viaduct of the Galician) RENENS Chemin du Viaduc, Prilly

LAUSANNE LA JETÉE DE LA COMPAGNIE LA GRENETTE PULLY Korean cuisine in the MORGES LUTRY Just down the road from the heart of the city Bellerive pool is this pop-up Place de la Riponne 10, Lausanne

CULLY bar, which has fast become the summer’s go-to spot for the LE MONTRIOND SAINT- PREX people of Lausanne. The reasons Jetée de la compagnie, In a kiosk on the edge behind its popularity? A deck Lausanne of the Parc de Milan opening straight out onto the +41 77 400 60 18 Avenue Dapples 26, Lausanne lake, carefully-selected local Number 2 bus: Bellerive stop products and unconventional LA VALENCIENNE new activities, such as Sunday Open: Mid-April Next to the pétanque pitch yoga-brunch sessions and to mid-October Chemin des Vignes d'Argent outdoor meditation. www.jeteedelacompagnie.ch Parc de Valency, Lausanne

50 51 BY THE WATER

HER TOP PLACES TO GO Vaudois “I love the Café de la Poste, which specialises in perch fillets, and CAFÉ DE LA POSTE its casual ambience. I often go there after a swim at the end of the Grand-Rue 48, day.” Lutry

Japanese “The terrace of Miyako in Beau-Rivage is charming and the sushi MIYAKO is fit for royalty.” BARS AND Place du Port, Lausanne RESTAURANTS Terrace “For aperitifs, the terrace of the Montbenon Brasserie is worth LA BRASSERIE DE the detour. You don’t feel hemmed in and the architecture is MONTBENON magnificent.” Allée Ernest-Ansermet 3, Lausanne

Sun “For drinks after work, I love the uncomplicated style of Great THE GREAT ESCAPE Escape’s terrace, which stays bathed in sunlight for a long time.” Rue Madeleine 18, Lausanne

Ephemeral “For aperitifs, the ephemeral Arches bar is a good alternative, A blogger’s LES ARCHES easily accessible and right in the city centre.” Route de Bel Air, Lausanne BEACHES AND POOLS Market “The Saturday morning market in Lausanne is one of my favourite summer CREACION DEL TATA experiences. I buy things for a picnic there before heading to Lausanne the beach. The empanadas sold at Chilean caterer Creacion del of style Wednesdays and Saturdays Tata’s stand are to die for.” THE RENAISSANCE WOMAN SOFIA CLARA IN LUTRY FLAVOURS Ice-cream “Nestled in the Mon-Repos Park, the Folie Voltaire is definitely LA FOLIE VOLTAIRE one of my favourite places in Lausanne. I love stopping by on BEACHES AND POOLS AND BEACHES Parc de Mon-Repos, Saturday afternoons and eating artisanal ice cream in the Lausanne shade of the trees.”

Icecream “Unmissable.” Sofia Clara has succeeded in bringing An alumni of the École Hôtelière de Lausanne, GLACES VENETA together a small community of followers having graduated in 2013, Sofia is very familiar Quai d’Ouchy, around her eponymous blog. with the charms of the Canton of Vaud. She has Place du Vieux Port, lived here since 1999. She has regularly shared her 1006 Lausanne Interview by Nina Seddik best picks on her eponymous blog, which she also Wine “The Lavaux Vinorama wine store in Rivaz is fantastic for aperitifs, uses to showcase her projects from time to time. LAVAUX VINORAMA I buy a fresh bottle of rosé there and will drink it by the lake with Last year, the Le Pointu restaurant won first Route du Lac 2, friends.” place in Gault & Millau’s rankings of the With summer on the way, it would be impossible for Rivaz best places to brunch in French-speaking The Lausanner not to ask Sofia about her favourite Switzerland. This was a real accolade for Sofia beaches and her top tips for the summer. PLAGE DE LUTRY “I lived in Lutry for a long time, and the beach there remains my Clara, co-founder of this restaurant that has Chemin de Bains, favourite. I love the refreshment stand, as well as the mix of grass, become one of the trendiest places to eat in the Lutry sand and pebbles.” Vaud Capital. The restaurant’s weekend brunch Le Pointu PLAGE DES PIERRETTES “The Pierrettes beach in Saint-Sulpice is also a charming place to also sells out several weeks in advance. Rue Neuve 2, Lausanne Chemin des Pierrettes, swim. It’s less crowded than the one in Lutry.” BEACHES Saint-Sulpice The 28 year-old, multi-talented British blogger, www.sofiaclara.com queen of DIY and interior designer in her spare Instagram: @sofia.clara MONTREUX “If I had to choose just one festival for the summer, it would be time, decorated the restaurant herself, for which JAZZ FESTIVAL the Montreux Jazz Festival for sure. I find its history fascinating she has also put together several recipes. From 29 June to 14 July and it’s really easy to head there after work to grab a drink. It’s Montreux easily accessible; you can hear the acts from the quays without FESTIVALS necessarily having a concert ticket.”

52 53 CHALET-DES-ENFANTS SCENIC STROLL FONTAINE DES GOLLIES And through the centre ran a river Before becoming a fashionable city district, the Flon was a river abused by human activity. Sylvain Menétrey EPALINGES takes a look at what’s left of it. GOLF COURSE

Swisstopo ©Data:

É

S On this walk, I am looking for any traces of this I story that still remain along the waterway. The explains Dominique Zürcher from the L banks have not been developed at the very top, A Lausanne Water Department. A large B making it an unfortunate necessity to cling to the proportion of the valley was then brambles that line the way. It’s not likely that any R

filled in to make room for industrial E pathways will appear in these parts any time soon,

I

expansion. The arches of the bridges T either. “We are working backwards to try and keep which span its width, such as Pont N these areas in their natural condition and avoid

Chauderon, have shrunk by roughly half. E causing any problems to wildlife,” explains Zürcher.

S The Flon area is much better known Several hundred metres downstream, however, as a neighbourhood which sits within after it has been joined by a number of other the old river valley. For a long time, similar streams, a fleeting section of the Flon it was a byword for a cluster of looks to be used for leisure. All the way to the M2 factories and warehouses. But terminus at Croisettes around a kilometre away, from 1980–1990, following a a delightful path dotted with benches, picnic It is the first day of spring. A dusting of snow covers period of deindustrialisation, areas, bridges and waterfalls winds alongside the R B E S É the ground. Here in the uplands of Lausanne, this wasteland provided I A L I water cascading down a set of mini waterfalls. surrounded by towering trees, the snow turns to ice. fertile ground for all sorts T After this peaceful stretch, however, it once again E N I am standing here looking at a drain, from which a of possibilities, with vintage S becomes difficult to keep track of the flow. We go trickle of water emerges. It is a pitiful beginning for furniture shops, gothic back to the road and head into the city, where the Flon. Unless, of course, its source was located boutiques, artist workshops, large buildings from the 70s and pretty little a few hundred metres higher, here in the woods clandestine parties and villas and chalets stand side by side: Croisettes,

1000 200 300m known as the Bois du Jorat, between the golf prostitution creating a Echelle 1: 10,000 Tuileries, Grand-Vennes. I try to find the Flon’s Imprimé le 16.04.2018 09:18 course in Epalinges and the Auberge du Chalet- revolutionary new patchwork https://s.geo.admin.ch/79f91ad324© swisstopo route again a few metro stops lower, at La Sallaz. www.geo.admin.ch est un portail d'accès aux informations géolocalisées, données et services qui sont mis à disposition par l'administration fédérale Responsabilité: Malgré la grande attention qu'elles portent à la justesse des informations diffusées sur ce site, les autorités fédérales ne peuvent endosser aucune responsabilité quant à la fidélité, à l'exactitude, à l'actualité, à la fiabilité et à l'intégralité de des-Enfants. The 1:25,000 map shows a series of a mere five minutes’ walk from ces informations. Droits d'auteur: autorités de la Confédération suisse. http://www.disclaimer.admin.ch/conditions_dutilisation.html At the Restaurant du blue lines, all of which could be likely candidates. the historic city centre. This Boissonnet, where fantasy world then underwent VENNES troops of construction Few in Lausanne think of a river when you talk a period of regeneration to workers sit eating about the Flon. This is hardly surprising – it has become what we see today: beef’s tongue, I spot largely dropped out of sight, despite flowing right a new shopping and leisure the river thrusting through the city up until the 19th century. It has district full of modern buildings. down into a steep been exploited, domesticated, buried and, since It was the Mercier family and ravine. Someone has 1996, diverted to feed into the Vuachère, another their company, LO Holding (now planted cabbages low-flowing waterway. As such, not much remains Mobimo), who were behind these along the slopes. I of the river around which the city was built. “The changes every step of the way: an ask whether there is Flon was used by the water mills and tanneries old Huguenot family of tanners who first TRIDEL PLANT any way to get down along its banks. Waste water was also released turned their hand to logistics, and then to back into the river. At the start of the 20th century, property, and who own the entire district. LA SALLAZ it was buried to avoid the outbreak of epidemics,”

54 55

1000 200 300m Echelle 1: 10,000 Imprimé le 16.04.2018 09:19 https://s.geo.admin.ch/79f91b3215© swisstopo

www.geo.admin.ch est un portail d'accès aux informations géolocalisées, données et services qui sont mis à disposition par l'administration fédérale Responsabilité: Malgré la grande attention qu'elles portent à la justesse des informations diffusées sur ce site, les autorités fédérales ne peuvent endosser aucune responsabilité quant à la fidélité, à l'exactitude, à l'actualité, à la fiabilité et à l'intégralité de ces informations. Droits d'auteur: autorités de la Confédération suisse. http://www.disclaimer.admin.ch/conditions_dutilisation.html SCENIC STROLL

to the water’s edge. I’m passed the Flon into a tunnel. from one table of regulars to the We can only imagine what next. No one knows. happens next. The channel I cross over to the Sauvabelin formed by the river underground side. The Flon eludes me, follows Rue Centrale through crashing out of reach into the the Flon district and the Vallée ravine. The 80-metre chimney de la Jeunesse all the way to of the Tridel plant, a waste the Pyramides de Vidy, where, management facility, can be even now, water from the Flon seen opposite. It marks the reappears to empty itself into entrance to an industrial area, the lake when the flow is high. ■ and the disappearance of

THINGS TO DO ALONG THE FLON PSYCHOGEOGRAPHY

A WALK THROUGH AUBERGE DU THE FLON THE JORAT FOUNTAINS CHALET-DES-ENFANTS DISTRICT One of the Flon’s sources can As the start or finish point for a Since it became the pulsing be found at the Fontaine des trip, or simply a longer break, the heart of the city, the trendy Gollies, one of 12 fountains Auberge du Chalet-des-Enfants Flon area has been in a state of which make up the chemin des and its very enjoyable terrace constant evolution. It is home fontaines des bois du Jorat, is something of an institution in to long-established businesses a route through the fountains Lausanne. Back in the 50s, Coco such as the trainer shop Pomp located in the Jorat woods. This Chanel loved to visit for a glass It Up, owned by Toto Morand, charming pathway, shaded and of milk and a piece of flan on her which is part of the fabric of cool, loops its way through the walks in Jorat. It is now a highly- Flon, as well as international Sévelin-Sébeillon: underbrush. It’s 15 kilometres recommended culinary pit stop. clothing brands, gyms, cafés, long in all, but can also be split The menu features in-season cinemas, restaurants to suit up into shorter sections. You can produce, and local dishes such every taste and party venues. from an industrial site refuel on the way to the Auberge as boutefas – fondue made with You can also find engravers, de l’Abbaye de Montheron Jorat wheat beer or bear’s garlic fashion designers, wine and Chalet-des-Enfants, where – and, as we had during our trip, merchants and the Abstract to a culture hotspot you will also find a couple of dandelion salad. exhibition space tucked away in fountains. Each of the springs, the old garages lining the Rue In each new edition, The Lausanner will take which have been tapped to Côtes-de-Montbenon. Last but provide refreshment to loggers not least, a chic new 115-room you on a journey into one of the various districts and their horses, is accompanied Moxy hotel is set to open here surrounding the city centre. Accompanied by by an information board and in 2019. some fun facts. Laurence Vinclair, the director of the Les Docks concert venue, we’re making our first foray into the cultural breeding ground that is Ouest Lausannois.

By Julien Calligaro

56 57 DON’T FORGET...

sports attractions as well as a climbing wall, the wine was stored back in the 1930s are still The best time for people to visit Sévelin is It has, however, achieved recognition far and specialist shop and cafeteria. An outdoor area there. The shop uses them for displays now.” most definitely the evening. Despite its rapid wide for its cultural spaces. The Les Docks concert was built five years ago, adding the finishing transformation, the appearance of several venue, which regularly hosts some of the biggest touches to this not-for-profit riders’ paradise. A huge lover of the district, Laurence is hoping that professional schools and a gym, and the names in music – such as Catherine Ringer, deindustrialisation and pressure from the property construction of 350 new homes along rue Godspeed You Black Emperor and Autechre Designer stores also fit happily into the Sévelin market don’t cause it to lose its soul. In 2015, the Sébeillon, the former industrial district is still to name but a few – stands out in particular. warehouses, which can be converted into City of Lausanne introduced a participatory not known for its café terraces like its next-door Laurence Vinclair is the artistic director there, lofts in the blink of an eye. Ligne Roset has initiative for thinking about future public areas in neighbour to the east, Flon – or at least not yet. and has been overseeing the line-up since a showroom there. Etat de Siège offers a the district. Amongst other things, this led to a pop- 2007. As a result, she knows the district like the seemingly endless range of chairs, sofas, and up dance floor being built in a garden between Les back of her hand. We asked her to be our guide even milking stools, both in-store and from their Docks and Sévelin 36. “It’s a great initiative! There as we explored its straight streets lined with catalogue. Laurence’s favourite? The vintage- was even a kit available with audio equipment warehouses, which sprang up after the Sébeillon cum-designer Uniquement Vôtre boutique. “The and lights.” Any other ideas? “Why not create goods station entered into operation in 1927. old glass-tiled, reinforced concrete vats where something like an open-air concert space?” ■

Two theatres in particular have shaped the district’s scene: Sévelin 36, with a contemporary dance focus, and Arsenic, a multidisciplinary performing arts centre. Founded by choreographer Philippe Saire, Sévelin 36 was originally used as his company’s rehearsal space back in the 1990s. LAURENCE’S TOP PICKS However, soon enough it began hosting the crème de la crème of international companies working LES DOCKS ARSENIC

at the cutting edge of their discipline. A few flights SÉVELIN of stairs further up, you’ll find Sévelin 36’s big- Before the summer break, Laurence A contemporary theatre, bar, restaurant hearted older brother, Arsenic. This is the place especially recommends a visit to Les Docks and function venue, as well as the central hub for tons of festivals. to come for contemporary theatre in Lausanne, SÉVELIN on 18 June to see and hear American group with future Swiss and international acting stars Neurosis. “They are post-metal pioneers. treading the boards of four different-sized stages. Until this year they always preferred Its enormous restaurant is also a major social hub, to play in alternative venues, like the Rue de Genève 57, especially for the district’s residents. “They’ve Reitschule in Bern, for their only show in Lausanne recently started serving food at lunchtime. And, Switzerland. It’s an honour to welcome www.arsenic.ch from 6 pm onwards on certain Tuesdays, you can them here!” The dark vibe and sound also dance – it’s about giving people a way of continue on 22 June with Body Count feat. LA MOLISANA enjoying themselves other than in a club in the Ice-T. The rapper is also famous for his middle of the night”, the scheduler explains. role in the American series Law & Order: With a reputation as being one of the Special Victims Unit. “A powerful sound best fish restaurants in Lausanne, its Just above Arsenic, looking almost as if it’s clinging combining metal, hardcore punk and rap.” restaurateur is from Marche in Italy. onto the cliff under the rails of the metro running the district’s length, you simply can’t miss the bright A softer sound kicks in at the start of and colourful Casona Latina. This Latin American the autumn, with Laurence recommending Avenue de Tivoli 68, The programmer of cultural hub offers salsa and tango lessons, and singer José González on 26 September. “He Lausanne Les Docks, Laurence acts as an exhibition centre. “This abundance of did a show here in 2015 with nothing but his www.molisana.ch Vinclair, wants the soul of Sévelin to be culture is what Sévelin-Sébeillon is all about. It’s a guitar and his incredible voice, and is now preserved, despite unique characteristic of the area, which we need back with The String Theory, an experimental the exodus of UNIQUEMENT VÔTRE industrial activities to protect so that it remains a nice place to live.” chamber orchestra.” The Swede’s cover of from the quarter. Heartbeats by electronic music duo A design store and showroom with some The industrial wasteland is also depicted in The Knife is one to watch out for. of the biggest brands around on display, urban culture. “The tags between Eracom which fell for the district’s industrial vibe. and Les Docks are regularly updated, and are well worth a detour.” More importantly, you’ll find the HS36 skate park in a disused hangar Avenue de Sévelin 34, Avenue de Sévelin 54, there. This is one of the top indoor skate parks Lausanne Lausanne in Europe, offering a load of different roller www.docks.ch www.uniquementvotre.ch

58 59 NIGHTLIFE

a theme park for adults,” says Igor Blaska. His in Place de l’Europe. And so the Mad House is wild “Moulin à Danse”, or “Mad”, is a nocturnal born! “This interested us right away because of Luna Park. It is a multiplex-style club with how close it is to our existing venue. And because Mad: a Flon a guest list and membership-card holders, we have always wanted to open a daytime space. which are still highly sought after by those that The hotel will complement our existing activities. want to skip the queue or not pay for entry. Ibis will oversee all hotel-related matters. We favourite since 1985 will be looking after the rooftop and lower bar.” There are five floors to roam around, with Fresh exposure for people who still don’t know as many different atmospheres, from the about Mad. And a second space to roam through It was the hub for nights out theatre to the lounge bar, from dance floors on several floors, in the pursuit of pleasure. in Lausanne, and the site of to the restaurant. And an impressive history. Its beginnings were in house, with legendary DJs some of the hottest parties of like Laurent Garnier and Jeff Mills on the decks. MAD’S SUMMER LINE-UP the 1990s. Less provocative It is also famed for its foam parties, which attract people from all over Europe who shake their stuff This year once again sees the nightclub today, it still remains among until the early hours of the morning in a giant getting clubbers into the holiday mood the elite of hit clubs. bubble bath. Nostalgic types remember that with its famous foam parties. With one there had even been a cinema beforehand. weekend bonanza and three evening events, including one gay special on the Today, Mad schedules its nightly line-ups based night before the first August bank holiday, By William Türler around different genres (R&B, Nineties, Latin, partygoers can get ready to blow bubbles etc.) and generations (such as its monthly and have some fun on the dance floor. Forever 28 nights for clubbers aged 28 and 27, 28 and 31 July 2018. The rest of the over). The renowned Mr Mike (aka Michael Hall) summer programme follows suit, with continues to host nights at Mad on the last

CLUB SCENE caliente parties, a Baywatch-themed Saturday of every month. His operating base? night, the Mad boat... and much more! Right up in the rafters on the 5th floor in Jet Lag. He remembers the first “dance parties” that he FIND THE PROGRAMME AND MORE INFO AT: hosted with Couleur 3 back in the early 1990s. www.mad.club

CLUB SCENE CLUB The space was much more “cultural” then than it is now, offering concerts and plays. Mr Mike tells me that “back then we worked a lot with the community in Lausanne. It was really creative. MAD IN NUMBERS I remember there was an art gallery, fashion shows, films... Mad was a place that attracted people wanting to discover new things. But with active6,000 members social media nowadays, the mystery is gone.”

Mad started out as an organisation in Place de l’Europe, close to where the metro entrance is visitors5,000 a week between Thursday Nightfall on the Rue sectors. The aim was to speak directly to now. It moved in early 1990 to its current home and Sunday de Genève. The walls of young people and the gay community.” in the heart of the Flon district. There was a the imposing industrial building occupied by “clause du besoin”, or clause of requirement, in Mad shake to the bassy sound of house, hip As time goes on, priorities change. The “Stop place in the city, which meant that authorities 10 million hop and Latin music. Its façades are covered AIDS” campaign will disappear by 2020, could control the number of public spaces yearly turnover with messages of love and prevention, painted coinciding with the launch of the Youth which were allowed to sell alcohol. Other than by the Federal Office of Public Health. Locals Olympic Games in Lausanne. Several official Mad, Lausanne only had Dolce Vita (rock, permanent staff and around 150 identify the club with its famous sculpture of a ceremonies, including medal ceremonies, punk) and a few old cabarets. Igor Blaska tells 35part-time employees on 0.6 FTE contracts huge condom on one of its walls. It’s an effigy are due to take place on the Flon’s plaza. us that “to get into Mad, you needed to be a that puts the club back into its original context By then, the condom will need to have been member. Even today, we still use this selective % square metres in 1985. “The building was an old ironworks,” replaced by greenery and roof-mounted solar approach. 80 of our current clientele is 1(5,800 levels, 4 dance floors, 1 restaurant) explains Igor Blaska, the club’s owner. We had panels, as a strong signal of support for the made up of our members and their guests.” to redo the walls. At the time, the arrival of AIDS environment and sustainable development. was starting to have a devastating effect. We From this summer onwards, the club will be came up with the idea for this design by working Even if it is quieting down outside, Mad is still diversifying and opening its doors to daytime the26 average visitor’s age with other players in the nightlife and prevention bubbling away behind its security barriers. “It’s birds. It will be taking over Lhotel, a 25-room hotel

60 61 LAUSANNE TOURISME

Discover the city differently PACKAGE “FESTIVAL DE LA CITÉ” PACKAGE “UNMISSABLE” (10.07-15.07.2018)

Come and discover Lausanne for a weekend, During the “Festival de la Cité” theatre shows, on the shores of Lake Geneva. Take advantage concerts, artistic, dance and circus performances of this special offer, the “Must-see package”: animate Lausanne. Enjoy this free event, open to overnight in a hotel + admission to The one and all, cordially invited to experience the Olympic Museum + admission to AQUATIS city of Lausanne in all its splendour, a vibrant city Aquarium-Vivarium (Europe's largest waiting to be discovered on the shores of Lake freshwater Aquarium-Vivarium) + a little Geneva. Take advantage of this special offer: souvenir from the AQUATIS boutique + free overnight in a hotel + guided walking city tour public transport in the Lausanne area. + free public transport in the Lausanne area. www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/packages www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/packages

LAUSANNE OLYMPIC CAPITAL SWEET LAUSANNE

Immerse yourself in the olympic universe Discover the magic of the city and its secrets PACKAGES AND TOURS accompanied by a certified guide. Starting accompanied by a certified guide. Explore all the aquatis.ch in Ouchy and while you walk by the lake, subtleties of Lausanne; its centre, its both antique elements linking Lausanne and the Olympics and modern architecture, its picturesque spots will be unveiled to you. To finish on an and its famous trendy district. As a conclusion emotion-rich experience, the stroll will end and to make this experience unforgettable, a with the visit of the Olympic Museum. tasty surprise will be waiting for you. Yummy! www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/activities www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/activities GRANDE EXPOSITION TASTE MY SWISS CITY LAUSANNE

A journey of culinary discovery. The starter, the main course and the dessert are served in 3 different locations in the heart of the city, all recommended by local experts. Choose your culinary experience and indulge your senses! www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/packages

2 MAI 2018 › 6 JANVIER 2019 PALAIS DE RUMINE - LAUSANNE entrée gratuite Information desks: Ouchy, Train station, Cathedral palaisderumine.ch

+41 21 613 73 73 [email protected]

62 63 DISTRICT 1. UNMISSABLE CITÉ – MON-REPOS

It is around the Cité hill, PLACES sculpted by the Flon and Louve rivers, that the medieval town grew.

Its cobble-stoned pedestrian streets as well as its monuments bear witness to this. Then, as soon as you cross the Bessières Bridge, the scenery changes completely. The Caroline district possesses a shopping mall, many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A bit further to the east, the Mon-Repos Park offers a green and tranquil haven, interrupted from time to time by the twittering of birds in its aviary.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

LAUSANNE MUSÉE HISTORIQUE mudac CATHEDRAL DE LAUSANNE The cathedral, considered one Within the walls of the This space is dedicated of the most beautiful Gothic Old Bishop’s Palace, this to design and contemporary buildings in Switzerland, was Lausanne historical museum applied arts. You set off on consecrated in 1275. Don’t miss – newly renovated – speaks an intense and surprising the rose window, the painted of the town’s rich past and journey where antique portal, the 13th century choir features a famous model Egyptian and Asian art stand stalls, the ancient and modern that offers an exceptional side by side with current stained glass windows and the view of the 17th century Cité. designers’ latest creations. great organs. The bravest will Temporary exhibitions, The museum organises admire the panoramic view inspired by the research encounters and themed from the belfry (entrance fee) conducted on its collections, guided tours, and regularly after climbing the 224 stairs. explore the thousand years welcomes performing arts Open tours of the Cathedral of this heritage. A novel such as dance, music and The essentials on www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/highlights and free guided tours during approach to the town’s history: other type of performances. the summer. smart multimedia! and on the blog www.my-lausanne.com “7 spots you absolutely must see”

64 65 ESCALIERS DU MARCHÉ A direct but abrupt route roofed and winding, with between the Cathedral and a very steep cobbled street the town centre, this wooden running alongside. An integral stairway first mentioned part of Lausanne’s popular during the 13th century exists iconography, it is lined on the The only private acute in its present form since the west with a picturesque row of beginning of the 18th century: boutiques and cafés. care Clinic IN THE VAUD CANTON BELONGING TO A

non-profi t Foundation MON-REPOS – CITÉ MON-REPOS PARK Open to the public, it’s one Stroll down its various alleys

DISTRICT 1. of the most popular parks to catch a glimpse of an for Lausanne inhabitants of orangery as well as a neo- all ages, with its huge lawns, Gothic tower overlooking a aviaries of exotic birds, cave and a waterfall. playgrounds and ephemeral sculptures.

DISTRICT 2. PLACES YOU MUST VISIT TOWN CENTRE

This is where the city’s energy is most animated both by day and night.

“OUTPATIENT SERVICES OPEN TO PATIENTS WITH BASIC MEDICAL INSURANCE” From ancient buildings to trendy new districts, tread the cobblestones • Emergency centre 7/7 and broad avenues to make the most of shopping amongst major • Radio-oncology centre brands and local designers. It’s also • The largest private Radiology institute in the Vaud canton the axis of nightlife with concert halls and an opera, plus bars and PLACE SAINT-FRANÇOIS • Breast imaging centre clubs that will keep you awake until & CHURCH • Multidisciplinary outpatient centre the early hours of the morning. Lausanne’s residents like to meet up on this central square dominated by a mediaeval • Physiotherapy institute - Photos©Th. Zufferey www.etcdesign.ch church that has become a hub for music and • 24-hour Medical laboratories dialogue with contemporary art in all its guises. • Medical and surgical centre for obesity

La qualité au service66 de votre santé 67 www.lasource.ch

Ad_CLS_15-18_ambulatoires_ 168x230mm_AN.indd 1 23.04.18 15:33 UNMISSABLE PLACES

RÔTILLON PLACE PALAIS DISTRICT 3. NEIGHBOURHOOD DE LA PALUD DE RUMINE TRAIN STATION / OUCHY In the intertwining lanes A polychrome statue, Erected at the end of th of one of Lausanne’s oldest symbolising justice, stands the 19 century on the neighbourhoods, recently imposingly on the Renaissance Place de la Riponne, this The neighbourhoods located between the renovated, works of art, small, fountain in the centre of this Italianate-style building Ouchy quays, by the lakeside, and the Lausanne original shops and bohemian pedestrian square, where houses a host of treasures train station are perfect for a revitalising stroll. cafés now attract the trendy the Town Hall is also located. in its various museums of crowds. Opposite, tourists and children art and science, such as the They unveil several green oases, elegant Belle Époque dwellings bordering broad avenues and wait, every hour on the hour largest naturalised great two internationally renowned museums. Since 2008, the rubber-tired m2 metro has replaced the from 9 am to 7 pm, for the white shark. “Ficelle” (the “String”), which was, in 1877, one of the first metropolitan railways in the world. ballet of animated figures to the sound of the carillon.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT DISTRICT 2. DISTRICT TOWN CENTRE TOWN

FLON MONTBENON COLLECTION CRÊT DE MONTRIOND DENANTOU DISTRICT ESPLANADE DE L’ART BRUT & PLACE DE MILAN PARK It’s the town’s architectural Making the most of one of the The town created this museum, Inagurated at the end of the 19th century, this Initially privately held, until opened to the success: this district of former town’s most beautiful openings unique in the world, in 1976 square’s vast lawns, football fields, playgrounds, public in 1928, this park was laid out during th warehouses that begins at on Lake Geneva and the Alps, in exchange for the legacy fountain and shady alley draw in families in the 19 century in the English fashion by a the Place de l’Europe was you can lounge on the lawns of 5,000 works of outsider all seasons. Reach the Crêt de Montriond by a banker. Allow your children to caper about rehabilitated as a living in front of the District Court or art belonging to artist Jean winding path to discover a 360° panorama of in the wild meadows surrounded by copses, area with a wide array of enjoy a meal on a terrace. If it’s Dubuffet. Located opposite the the Lavaux vineyards, Lake Geneva and Alps. flower bed displays and statues, or to play restaurants, bars, clubs, raining, you might like to visit Beaulieu Palace, this institution with the water from the pond. Since 2007, boutiques, cinemas and the Swiss Film Archive in the today owns over 70,000 a Thai pavilion with a golden roof adorns exhibition spaces. A must is Casino de Montbenon. works, 800 of which are this green area; it was given to the town to enjoy a drink on one of the displayed permanently, and by His Majesty the late King of Thailand in rooftop terraces. exports its exhibitions all over gratitude for the years he spent in Lausanne the world. between 1933 and 1951.

68 69 LES JARDINS ÉLYSÉE MUSEUM & GARDENS OLYMPIC MUSEUM & PARK DU ROYAL This 30-year-old museum, one of the first to Unique in the world, the Olympic Museum UN CHARME DISSIMULÉ be entirely dedicated to photography, gained forms Lausanne’s main cultural attraction. AU CŒUR DE LAUSANNE its international aura thanks to the quality Each of its three levels is dedicated to a and originality of its exhibitions in Lausanne, particular aspect of modern Olympism, Les musts then exported all over the world, as well as largely featuring new interactive * Pique-nique et Grillades à déguster sous the dozen complete collections and archives, communication media. You may need several les grands arbres du parc ou à emporter. amongst which are those of Charlie Chaplin, visits to explore everything. In any case, a Nicolas Bouvier and Ella Maillart. Don’t pause at the Tom Café is welcome, with its Nos terrasses miss its new discovery space, “The Studio”, terrace on the uppermost floor that offers a Sky Lounge, Terrasse de la Brasserie, dedicated to young visitors and families. The splendid view of Lake Geneva and the Alps. Terrasse du Lounge Bar beautiful mansion, that welcomed Mme de In the park, admire the collection of sculptures Staël in 1807, is surrounded by a French formal and test your speed on a proper running track. Les plus garden laid out in terraces with a spectacular Strolling through the landscaped terraces, Shishas, Glaces, Terrain de Pétanque view of the Alps and Lake Geneva. you’ll reach the monument on the shores et Babyfoot of the lake. * The exhibitions are temporary. Refer to the program.

Royal Savoy Hotel & Spa Lausanne Avenue d’Ouchy 40 1006 Lausanne T. +41 (0)21 614 88 88 [email protected] www.royalsavoy.ch

RS-Ann-TheLausanner 148x107mm-Jardins-Avr18.indd 1 04.05.18 09:09 TRAIN STATION / OUCHY DISTRICT 3.

Cruises on a Belle Époque or solar boat It’s impossible to leave Lausanne without having sailed on Lake Geneva aboard one of the Compagnie Générale de Navigation’s vessels. In addition to crossing the lake to the French shore, its Belle Époque fleet – the largest in the world – takes you on board for a gourmet cruise.

From May to September, you can sail closer to the coastline on board the solar-powered boats “Les Aquarels du Léman”, to observe the fauna and flora in tranquility.

70 71 UNMISSABLE PLACES

DISTRICT 4. VIDY/UNIVERSITIES ROMAN MUSEUM & GALLO-ROMAN RUINS The western part of Lausanne is dominated by The Lausanne-Vidy Roman greenery, a body of water the university campus that includes the University Museum offers a presentation and ruins, don’t miss the walk of the Gallo-Roman Lousonna around the remains of the and the Federal Institute of Technology. (Lausanne), as well as various Lousonna vicus (village) dating temporary exhibitions. In a from 15 BC, one of the largest A location close to the lakeside loved by the 25,000 students bucolic setting that blends in Switzerland. who can take part in a broad array of nautical sports.

ESPACE DES INVENTIONS PLACES YOU MUST VISIT Are your children budding its vocation is to arouse young scientists? The Espace des people’s interest in science inventions is a place for them! and technique thanks to Housed in a strange building interactive and entertaining with a concave roof dating exhibitions that are regularly from the National Exhibition, renewed. VIDY/UNIVERSITIES

UNIVERSITY CAMPUS DISTRICT 4. & ROLEX LEARNING CENTER The university campus includes the Lausanne Federal Institute of Technology and BELLERIVE SWIMMING Lausanne University, the POOL & CRAZY GOLF first buildings of which were erected in the 1970s. Since This outdoor swimming pool, then, the site has rapidly open from May to September, expanded and integrated is equipped with large pools, up buildings, the architecture to 10-metre diving boards and of which is admired beyond fun paddling pools for children. PARC LOUIS-BOURGET & PLAGE DE VIDY Swiss borders. It’s the case of Would you rather chill out? the Rolex Learning Centre’s Lounge on the large lawns or on Between shoreline forest and meadows, the Louis-Bourget gentle undulations, created the (supervised) beach with direct Park is a nature reserve that hosts a bird sanctuary, a by the Japanese architecture access to the lake. Restaurants pond bordered with fireflies, a fitness trail and a large firm SANAA, that serves as and refreshment stalls on the playground. It’s also an ideal destination for hot summer a place of learning, meeting spot. Next to the pool, the evenings: come and use the barbecues and grills set on the and exchanges, and includes Bellerive crazy golf is an invitation lawns before enjoying a game of football or relaxing on a library housing more than to playful relaxation ideal for Vidy beach! You’ll also meet many walkers strolling on the 500,000 volumes. families or friends. pleasant path that runs along the lakeside.

72 73 UNMISSABLE PLACES

DISTRICT 5. CHALET-À-GOBET & MAUVERNAY HERMITAGE COUNTRY ESTATE SPORTS CENTRE & FOUNDATION SAUVABELIN/CHALET-À-GOBET This village includes a hotel school, a ski slope, In the centre of the Hermitage Estate sits an an equestrian centre as well as a golf course. imposing mansion built around 1850 and North of the town,% vast expanses of forest, Its sports centre offers running and mountain- that now houses today a famous museum representing 40 of the municipal surface bike trails (changing showers available). of paintings. In the English-style gardens area, offer many opportunities for walks populated with majestic trees, benches invite and outdoor sports activities. you to contemplate a unique panorama of the old town, the lake and the mountains.

At an altitude of 873 m, Le Chalet-à-Gobet is the culminating point of the Lausanne urban area, 500 m above Lake Geneva. Sauvabelin’s bucolic setting, with its lake, park and tower, will delight you.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT SAUVABELIN/CHALET-À-GOBET DISTRICT 5.

SAUVABELIN PARK & LAKE SAUVABELIN TOWER Created in 1888 in the heart of an oak forest, This tower built of solid, local wood in a spirit the Sauvabelin lake rapidly became a sought- of environmental respect is one of the many after strolling area for Lausanne people. You destinations for a hike above the town since AQUATIS can rent a small boat during the summer or 2003. Enjoy the 360° view from a height of 35 This innovative architectural complex, easily trail that includes 50 tanks displaying about walk along its shores. The surrounding park metres after climbing the 151 steps of its double reached by metro, integrates the largest 20 aquatic ecosystems from across the five is very popular with children, who discover spiral staircase. Free access. freshwater aquarium in Europe and the continents. unusual animals such as woolly pigs, grey Lausanne Vivarium. Follow the discovery cows, booted goats and mirror sheep.

74 75 AGENDA

LAUSANNE

TheSURROUNDINGS calendar of not-to-be-missed events

Mid-April → Mid-December 18 05.07.18 10.07.18 → 15.07.18 TH Mid-April → Mid-December Lausanne à Table ! www.lausanneatable.ch LAUSANNE 47 FESTIVAL DE LA CITÉ À TABLE ! ATHLETISSIMA LAUSANNE 04.06→ 09.06.18 Festival Pully-Lavaux à l’heure www.lausanneatable.ch www.athletissima.ch www.festivalcite.ch du Québec www.pully-quebec.ch 08 → 10 & 15 → 17.06.18 Fête Romande de Gymnastique www.frg18.ch 22 → 24 & 26 → 28.06.18 Béjart Ballet Lausanne (BBL) shows www.bejart.ch 05.07.18 Athletissima www.athletissima.ch 10.07 → 15.07.18 47th Festival de la Cité Lausanne www.festivalcite.ch 19.07 → 22.07.18 Lausanne Afro Fusions Festival www.lausaff.org 20.07 → 19.08.18 Les Garden-Parties de Lausanne www.lausanne.ch/lesgardenparties 18.08 → 19.08.18 25th Lausanne ITU Triathlon AGENDA 13.09.18 → 17.09.18 21.11.18 → 31.12.18 21.11.18 → 31.12.18 World Cup www.trilausanne.ch TH TH BDFIL – 14 LAUSANNE 7 LAUSANNE LUMIÈRES BÔ NOËL LAUSANNE 24.08 → 25.08.18 3x3 World Tour Lausanne Masters www.fiba.com/3x3worldtour/2018 COMIC STRIP FESTIVAL FESTIVAL – CHRISTMAS MARKETS www.bdfil.ch www.festivallausannelumieres.ch www.bo-noel.ch nd AGENDA 30.08 → 02.09.18 Equissima Lausanne, 22 edition www.equissima.ch 09.09.18 The Color Run www.thecolorrun.ch 13.09 → 17.09.18 BDFIL – 14th Lausanne Comic www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/big-events Non-exhaustive list; dates are subject to change Strip Festival www.bdfil.ch 14.09 → 16.09.18 Label Suisse www.labelsuisse.ch th Lausanne Lumières Festival 14.09 → 23.09.18 Comptoir Suisse, 99 National Fair www.comptoir.ch 22.09.18 Lausanne & Pully Museums Night www.lanuitdesmusees.ch 28.09 → 30.09.18 72nd Fête des Vendanges, Lutry www.fetedesvendanges.ch 28.09 → 10.10.18 Knie Circus www.knie.ch 14.10 → 18.10 18 38th Olympic Week www.olympic.org 17.10 → 21.10.18 17th Lausanne Underground Film & Music Festival www.luff.ch 28.10.18 Lausanne Marathon, 26th edition www.lausanne-marathon.com 07.11 → 11.11.18 31st JazzOnze+ Festival Lausanne www.jazzonzeplus.ch 21.11 → 31.12.18 Bô Noël Lausanne – Christmas Markets www.bo-noel.ch 21.11 → 31.12.18 7th Lausanne Lumières Festival www.festivallausannelumieres.ch 15.12.18 13th Christmas Midnight Run www.midnightrun.ch December 18 Béjart Ballet Lausanne (BBL) shows www.bejart.ch

76 77 R RUE DE RENENS U E

D ↑ A E

V EN L U A E D AVENUE DE MORGES ES B O BE RG R IÈ D RES E BARS, CAFES & RESTAURANTS SHOPPING MONUMENTS & ARCHITECTURE Auberge du Chalet-des-Enfants Confiserie Wuthrich Cathédrale de Lausanne U E A THE I V Route du Chalet des Enfants Avenue Juste-Olivier 11 Place de la Cathédrale E A L N 1052 Le Mont-sur-Lausanne 1006 Lausanne 1005 Lausanne V U U E E N A U E V Bad Hunter État de Siège Fontaine de la Palud E B I N D E E Rue des Côtes-de-Montbenon 12 Rue de Sébeillon 1 Place de la Palud 1 ADDRESSESE T D R F EL 1003 Lausanne 1004 Lausanne 1003 Lausanne R N U A E N U U E N T Café de la Poste Uniquement Vôtre Tour Bel-Air C N C E E U É Grand-Rue 48 Avenue de Sévelin 54 Place Bel-Air V D S IN THIS A E A 1095 Lutry 1004 Lausanne 1003 Lausanne U R R  R Café de l’Europe Vaudoise Assurances O

RUE DE GENÈVE U Rue du Simplon 33 Place de Milan 120 X SPORTS & ACTIVITIES EDITION 1006 Lausanne 1001 Lausanne Skatepark HS36 Café La Louve Avenue de Sévelin 36

Place Pépinet 1 1004 Lausanne

Lausanne A E VE →

N N

U I E PONT CHAUDERON Cloud Social Club D L E PONT BESSIÈRES Chemin du Levant 1 NIGHTLIFE & CONCERTS TRANSPORTATION O PR O RUE DU GRAND-PONT Lausanne Bleu Lézard Gare Lausanne-CFF VEN R CE VOLI AVENUE JULES GONIN A Rue Enning 10 Place de la Gare AVENUE DE TI UE C Glaces Veneta CENTRALE R 1003 Lausanne 1003 Lausanne RUE Quai d’Ouchy, Place du Vieux Port, 1006 Lausanne Casona Latina Métro M1 Rue de Genève, 57 bis UE DE La Brasserie de Montbenon R BOURG 1004 Lausanne Métro M2 Allée Ernest-Ansermet 3 1003 Lausanne Les Docks AVENUE LOUIS-RUCHONNET E Avenue de Sévelin 34 N La Couronne d’Or ← Ê 1004 Lausanne H AVENUE DU THÉ Rue des Deux-Marchés 13 C TIT 1005 Lausanne MAD Club – Moulin à Danse PE U Rue de Genève 23 D La Folie Voltaire E 1003 Lausanne U ÂTRE R Parc de Mon-Repos 1005 Lausanne THEATERS DISTRICTS AVE AVENUE DE LA GARE La Molisana NUE DU M ONTD’OR Avenue de Tivoli 68 Théâtre Sévelin 36 TD’OR SAUVABELIN – CHALET-À-GOBET AV AVENUE DU MON 1007 Lausanne EN Avenue de Sévelin 36 UE D Lavaux Vinorama 1004 Lausanne CITÉ – MON-REPOS E C BO O UL REPERTOIRE Route du Lac 2 U DE MILAN E Arsenic R E VA U RD 1071 Rivaz CENTRE VILLE Rue de Genève 57 N DE E GRA Le Bar Tabac 1004 Lausanne V NCY A GARE – OUCHY Rue Beau-Séjour 7 Y 1003 Lausanne S H MUSEUMS VIDY – HAUTES-ÉCOLES IN C A U Les Arches B S ’O AVENUE JUSTEOLIVIER La Collection de l’Art Brut E Route de Bel-Air D D A Avenue Bergières 11

E 1003 Lausanne V A E AVENUE DE LA HARPE U A 1004 Lausanne E V U N E E N V L’Instant B N N U E A V U Le Musée olympique E V A E Rue du Petit-Chêne 11 DE V E E N R N U Quai d’Ouchy 1 HO A U E Lausanne D E D D A DE E 1006 Lausanne N C DÉLICES E O IE UR M O J L’Ulivo N U mudac

R Chemin de Couvaloup 13 TC Place de la Cathédrale 6 I

H G 1005 Lausanne O

O 1005 Lausanne IS まる茶 I Z Marutcha Thé japonais Musée de l’Élysée AV Rue de la Grotte 4 EN Avenue de l’Élysée 18 UE 1003 Lausanne D 1006 Lausanne E MIYAKO L’ Musée Romain de Lausanne-Vidy EL Place du Port 17-19 YS Chemin du Bois-de-Vaux 24 ÉE 1006 Lausanne Y 1007 Lausanne H C The Great Escape AV → A U EN Rue Madeleine 18 V O U ’ E EN D 1003 Lausanne D E U E D D E E EN R U HO A D N N AN E T HOTELS V O IE U A Beau-Rivage Palace Chemin de Beau-Rivage 21 1006 Lausanne

QUAI D’OUCHY LHOTEL Place de l’Europe 6 1003 Lausanne

0 100 m 500 m CGN GENEVA LAKE 78 EMBARCADÈRE 79 LAUSANNEOUCHY GENERAL INFORMATION (RE)DISCOVER THE ADDRESSES OF LAUSANNE IN SHORT Lausanne benefits from a privileged location in the heart of Europe. It is easily reached by train, car or boat. If you fly in, you can choose between Geneva LAUSANNE International Airport (40 minutes away) and Zurich Airport (2 hours 30 minutes away).

LAUSANNE, CAPITAL POPULATION TOURISME OF THE CANTON OF Town of Lausanne 145,000 inhabitants TOURIST INFORMATION VAUD AND FOURTH- Urban area 400,000 inhabitants Three Tourist Offices can provide information additionally, welcome centers are at LARGEST TOWN IN Vaud Canton 780,000 inhabitants the CFF train station, the Cathedral and by the lakeside in the m2 metro “Ouchy- SWITZERLAND Olympique” station. You will find a host of services at your disposal there – public transport passes, maps, recommended routes and excursions from Lausanne, Lausanne sparkles various brochures, lists of hotels, help and emergency services, etc. – as well with energy, its LANGUAGE as culture and leisure news. capacity to innovate Official language French and the diversity its’ tourists offer. It hosts PUBLIC INFORMATION LAUSANNE TOURISME the headquarters of OFFICES & CONVENTION BUREAU CITY STATS GEOGRAPHY Av. de Rhodanie 2 several multinational LAUSANNE TRAIN STATION Case postale 975 Latitude 46°32’ N Pl. de la Gare 9 CH-1001 Lausanne companies, renowned CFF train station main hall +41 21 613 73 73 Longitude 06°40’ E September to March: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/en/ universities and every day: 9 am → 6 pm [email protected] research centres, June to August: every day: 9 am → 7 pm dozens of international METRO STATION sports federations ALTITUDE LOCAL TIME ZONE “OUCHY-OLYMPIQUE” September to March: and many cultural 372 m by the lakeside GMT+1 every day: 9 am → 6 pm institutions. June to August: 495 m in the town centre (summer time +1 every day: 9 am → 7 pm 852 m north of the town = March to LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL October) April, May and September: Monday to Saturday: TOWN OF LAUSANNE – INFO CITÉ 9.30 am → 1 pm / 2 pm → 6.30 pm ; Information point for the town Sunday: 1 pm → 5.30 pm of Lausanne, the “info cité” office’s June, July and August: mission is to inform, orient and guide Monday to Saturday: 9.30 am → 6.30 pm; Lausanne people and passing guests. Sunday: 1 pm → 5.30 pm Place de la Palud 2 CLIMATE October to March: 1002 Lausanne → Average annual temperature 14 °C Monday to Saturday: Monday to Friday: 8 am 5 pm 9.30 am → 1 pm/ 2 pm → 5 pm ; Saturday: 9 am → 1 pm Average summer temperature 24 °C Sunday: 2 pm → 5 pm +41 21 315 25 55 www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/tourism- www.lausanne.ch/infocite Due to the city’s wide altitude range (500 m), the climate changes according offices [email protected] to the district as a 1 °C temperature disparity is recorded for every 100 m. For example, in winter it is quite common for the upper part of the city to be snowbound for many weeks.

80 81 PRACTICAL LAUSANNE Here are useful contact details to keep at hand and make your stay easier. You have access to all the necessary information in our three information offices spread across the town.

EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS CURRENCY Swiss franc (CHF) 112 International number for emergency calls 1 euro = 1.15 CHF (indicative rate)

117 Police (crimes and theft, emergencies only)

118 Fire brigade EXCHANGE OFFICE Lausanne train station 140 Roadside assistance service Monday to Friday (except Thursday): 8 am → 6.30 pm; Thursday: 8 am → 8.30 pm; Saturday: 9 am → 6 pm; 144 Ambulance Sunday: 9 am → 1.20 pm / 2.40 pm → 6 pm

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS POST OFFICES

+41 21 314 11 11 CHUV IN THE TOWN CENTRE (Centre Hospitalier Universitaire Vaudois) Pl. Saint-François 15 +41 848 888 888 +41 848 133 133 Centre for on-call doctors Monday to Friday: 7.30 am → 6.30 pm; Saturday: 8 am → 11.30 am 1811 Directory enquiry services AT THE TRAIN STATION 162 Swiss weather forecast Pl. de la Gare 1 / Av. de la Gare 43 bis +41 848 888 888 → DIRECTORY 163 Road traffic information Monday to Friday: 8 am 8 pm; Saturday: 8am → 4 pm; Sunday: 4 pm → 7 pm www.poste.ch/en

LOST PROPERTY OFFICE LAUSANNE POLICE STATION Parking de 1’190 places. Pl. de la Riponne 10 +41 21 315 33 85 Pour vos achats au centre-ville. Monday to Friday: 1 pm → 4 pm www.lausanne.ch/en ULTRA-CONNECTED LAUSANNE The town is constantly developing www.parking-riponne.ch hotspots providing free internet access. Currently, 10 WiFi hubs are available USEFUL MOBILE APPLICATIONS in the town’s main squares: Flon, Find here the applications that Palud, Riponne, Gare, Saint-François, are useful for your stay in Lausanne. Montbenon, Navigation, Port, Service Calendar, hotels, self-service bike des automobiles (Vehicles Service), rentals, public transport and Blécherette Airport. much more!

MORE INFORMATION AT: MORE INFORMATION AT: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/mobile-apps www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/good-to-know

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LAUSANNE, AT THE HEART USEFUL INFORMATION

CHEMINS DE FER FÉDÉRAUX (CFF) GENEVA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT OF THE LAKE GENEVA REGION Consulting the timetables for national or international Second in Switzerland after Zurich, Geneva Airport connections from or to Lausanne, preparing your trip is a 45-minute train ride from Lausanne (five trains and buying tickets to travel in Switzerland becomes every hour). It benefits from a network serving 142 direct Situated in the heart of Europe, child’s play with “Mobile CFF” application. destinations, 23 of which are intercontinental. the Olympic Capital is also the CFF information – Passenger service: Rte. de l’Aéroport 21, Pl. de la Gare 5a Grand-Saconnex ideal departure point for exploring +41 900 300 300 (within Switzerland) +41 900 57 15 00 +41 51 220 11 11 (calling from abroad) (Information about departures and arrivals) the charming lake, mountains, www.sbb.ch/en www.gva.ch/en countryside, vineyards and forests of the surrounding area. COMPAGNIE GÉNÉRALE DE NAVIGATION (CGN) LA BLÉCHERETTE LAUSANNE AIRPORT From the simple lake crossing to go to France to a gourmet This aeronautical facility – that celebrated its hundredth cruise on a Belle Époque paddle-wheel vessel, every experience year in 2016 – is located nearby Lausanne’s town centre. on the Lake Geneva waters becomes an unforgettable memory. First flights and air-taxis. Av. de Rhodanie 17 Av. du Grey 117 MOVE IN LAUSANNE +41 900 929 929 +41 21 646 15 51 You can reach Lausanne across www.cgn.ch/en www.lausanne-airport.ch

land, air or even water. This model TRANSPORTATION AND ACCOMODATION town for sustainable development LEB RAILWAY PUBLIBIKE – SELF-SERVICE BIKE RENTALS Would you like to spend a day in the countryside? Embark on the You will find all the information on the new offers and the possesses a network of public Lausanne – Echallens – Bercher train that departs from the Flon. networks to Lausanne-Morges on the new PubliBike site. Bikes and pushchairs are welcome on board. +41 848 09 08 07 transport that makes it ideal to Gare Lausanne-Chauderon www.publibike.ch/en/publibike set off from and explore. +41 21 624 82 41 www.leb.ch

THE LAUSANNE TRANSPORT CARD, a card that offers you free transport PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN THE LAUSANNE REGION www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/getting-around The “tl_live” application lets you purchase your ticket, and discounts! look up itineraries and real-time schedules (in French only). Don’t forget to ask the establishment

HALDIMAND POINT OF SALE ACCOMODATION AND TRANSPORTATION Rue Haldimand 3 providing your lodging for your personal +41 21 621 01 11 (price of a local call) Lausanne Transport Card (LTC)! You can Monday to Friday: 7.30 am → 7 pm; Saturday: 8 am → 5 pm FIND ACCOMMODATION IN LAUSANNE use public transport (bus, train, metro) for Would you like to stay at a centrally located, low-priced establishment after FLON CUSTOMER CENTRE Pl. de l’Europe 5b free during your whole stay (maximum 15 enjoying Lausanne’s nightlife, or do you dream of spending the night in a 5-star hotel +41 21 621 01 11 Monday to Friday: 7 am → 7 pm; Saturday: 9 am → 6 pm days) in Lausanne and its surroundings. overlooking the lake? Do you need a comfortable room near the EPFL congress centre? www.t-l.ch/en But that’s not all! Thanks to our partners, How about a hotel with seminar rooms and high-tech facilities? Or do you imagine a you benefit from exceptional discounts romantic weekend in a boutique hotel? With more than 7,000 beds from and advantages from many museums, 1 to 5-star superior spread over 60 or so establishments, the city of Lausanne allows shops and other leisure activity providers. all its guests to be put up in the best conditions, whether they are here on business or for leisure.

“GRAND LAUSANNE” MOBILIS DAY PASS MORE INFORMATION AT: Full fare: CHF 9.30; reduced fare: CHF 6.90. www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/hotels This pass entitles you to whole-day-use of all the public MORE INFORMATION AT: transport companies belonging to the Vaud tariff https://www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/ltc (for hotel bookings) community present in the Grand Lausanne perimeter (i.e. Lausanne and its immediate surroundings). Available from ticket dispensers or points of sale. For more information www.mobilis-vaud.ch

84 85 share your Discover Switzerland experience in a rented car! Book your car directly through The best way to www.lausanne-tourisme.ch or at the tourist information. experience Switzerland.

Europcar Avenue Ruchonnet 2 1003 Lausanne Swiss Travel Pass – the key to Switzerland’s public transport. Tél. +41 (0)21 319 90 40 More information on MySwitzerland.com/ticket www.europcar.ch SOCIAL MEDIA SOCIAL

18043 Ins_Lausanne Escapade_65x96mm.indd 1 28.02.18 12:18 Profitez de notre180219 carte STS-Inserat-Lausanne Inter-Parkings escapades–65x93-EN.indd 1 19.02.18 13:27 EXPLORE THE CITY LIKE A NATIVE, BENEFIT FROM INSIDER INFORMATION, MEET LOCALS. à Lausanne: - Port d’Ouchy Rush over to my-lausanne.com/en/ - Mon Repos to discover cool tips and share your - Gare de Lausanne experience in lausanne aux environs: Connect with MyLausanne - Gare de Nyon on social media: - Pully Centre @mylausanne #MyLausanne

- Centre Ville Morges

Parking Management Services SA - Renens Gestion & Exploitation www.pms-parkings.ch 87 USEFUL INFORMATION

ACTIVITIES FOR THOSE ON TIGHT BUDGETS A leisure offer accessible to all

TO ENSURE THAT ITS RANGE OF RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES REMAINS ACCESSIBLE TO ALL, THE CITY OF LAUSANNE LAYS ON VARIOUS ACTIVITIES FOR THOSE ON A MODEST BUDGET. HERE ARE A FEW EXAMPLES OF OUTINGS TO BE ENJOYED AS A FAMILY OR AMONG FRIENDS:

FREE OF CHARGE BETWEEN CHF 0 AND CHF 8.50 • Vidy Bowl for skaters • AquaSplash with 5 giant flumes, • Concert at Saint-François church Renens (between CHF 4 and CHF 8) CITY TOURING ON A BUDGET ON TOURING CITY every Saturday at 5 pm • Climb the Cathedral tower • Hundreds of multi-coloured birds (from CHF 1 to CHF 5) at the Mon-Repos Park aviary • Vidy bowling alley (between • Free entry to most museums on CHF 4.50 and CHF 7.50 per person) the first Saturday of the month • Flon bowling alley (between CHF 5 • Midday concert every Wednesday and CHF 8.50 per person) from October to March at the Haute • Bellerive minigolf (free up to age 4, Ecole de Musique de Lausanne CHF 6 until age 16, then CHF 8) • Mountain biking at Chalet-à-Gobet • Vidy miniature train • Climb the Sauvabelin Tower (CHF 3 per journey) • LAUSANNE IN SUMMER-TIME Many free cultural events as part of the Lausanne Agenda between June and September • 4,000 plant species from all over the world at the Botanical Gardens

MORE INFO: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/getting-around www.my-lausanne.com/en/visiting-lausanne-small-budget-tips-pointers

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