A Summer in Freshwater
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SPRING / SUMMER 2018 - N° 1 ENGLISH FRANÇAIS NICE TO MEET YOU A SUMMER IN FRESHWATER POOLS AND BEACHES With advice from the epicurean writer Roland Jaccard and The Lausanne guide Page 42 recommendations of places to go from blogger Sofia Clara PLATEFORME 10, THE CULTURAL RADIOGRAPHY OF THE THE ARCHITECTURAL SITE OF THE CENTURY CGN FLAGSHIP MODERNISM OF LAUSANNE Page 6 Page 24 Page 36 THE SECRETS OF THE CITY EDITORIAL Linking residents and tourists When it comes to singing the praises of Lausanne, the dulcet tones of a Vaudois accent can’t be beaten. But if you listen, you soon come to understand that people speak many languages there. The city has become internationalised, especially with the impetus of its major universities, its multinationals, and even its Olympic institutions and sports federations. To show off this multiple identity, Lausanne Tourism wanted to create a new kind of welcome magazine which builds a bridge, and sometimes reverses the perspective, between insiders and visitors. The Lausanner is the product of this approach, where points of view, paths and flavours cross like they would in a marketplace. Its name is a nod to the residents of other cities: New Yorker, Londoner, Zuricher. Most of all, it pays homage to how we name the people of Lausanne in German-speaking Switzerland and in the Anglo-Saxon world. Whether you’re from here or somewhere else, a passing guest or a resident, The Lausanner aims to tell you of the city’s history and heritage in an unexpected way. A city that, as noted by the architect Vincent Mangeat (p. 36), was first built on the shores of the lake, before spreading to the hills in anticipation of potential enemies. Later on the incomparable view became a touristic asset. The Lausanner also talks in detail about the various dramas that have enthralled the city, such as the future museum hub on the periphery of the station, which has monopolised Lausanne’s cultural news for several years (p. 6). Above all, The Lausanner aims to provide an endless source of recommendations of places to go from a wide range of experts. The Lausanner, published in French and English every six months, will help you explore this unique geographic location, between lake and mountain, where the “papet”, a traditional Vaud dish, and biotech exist in happy harmony. 2 1 All aboard! With Marylou Dubelly Reymond, former #LAKEXCEPTION police officer and Lausanne public transport conductor in the 1980s when the buses were orange! IMPRESSUMThe Lausanner, a tourist welcome magazine and Sedrik Nemeth (P. 62, 74) - Caroline Corajoud (P. 84) - Guy Perrenoud (P. 84) - Elise information about life in Lausanne Heuberger (P. 77) - Thomas Ebert (P. 77) - Jeanne Quattropani (P. 77) - Amélie Blanc (P. 77) - F. Beaud-Cedotc (P. 75) - Ryosuke Takahashi (P. 21) - Christian Monin Editorial: (P. 43) - Ville de Lausanne (P. 44) - Catherine Gailloud (P. 50) - Lucas Girardet Lausanne Tourisme (P. 51) - Marino Trotta (P. 56, 77) - Laurent Ryser (P. 60) - CIO/Lydie Nesvadba (P. 71) Direction: Image search: Steeve Pasche, Jannick Schallenberger Sabrine Elias Ducret, Joëlle Kercan Editorial production: Cover: LargeNetwork Photograph of Sofia Clara and Camille Chardon Graphics: by Nicolas Schopfer Saentys Advertising: Editor-in-chief: Michel Chevallaz Sylvain Menétrey, LargeNetwork +41 79 213 53 15 YOUR CRUISES Production: Printing: Jannick Schallenberger Gremper SA, Basel Available in French and in English Writing: ACROSS Julien Calligaro, Robert Gloy, Blandine Guignier, Melinda Marchese, Writing, administration and announcements: Nina Seddik, Céline Stegmüller, William Türler, Odile Valmont Lausanne Tourisme Av. de Rhodanie 2 Photography: Case postale 975 Nicolas Schopfer (P. 5, 36, 49, 52) - NotreHistoire.ch/Marylou Dubelly Reymond CH-1001 Lausanne LAKE GENEVA (P.2) - PLATEFORME 10/Estudio Barozzi Veiga (P. 6) - Jean-Bernard Sieber (P. 9) T. +41 21 613 73 73 - Matthieu Gafsou (P. 10) - Nora Rupp, Musée cantonale des Beaux-Arts de www.lausanne-tourisme.ch Lausanne (P. 11) - Odile Meylan/24heures (P. 15) - A bout de souffle, Jean-Luc e-mail : [email protected] Godard/Bibliothèque des classiques du cinéma (P. 16) - Collection particulière de Luciana Bazzanella, Lausanne (P. 17) - Collection Cinémathèque suisse. All rights reserved. (P. 17) - AFP (P. 18) - Thierry Parel (P. 19) - Sylvain Menetrey (P. 19, 54–56) - François Wavre/lundi13 (P. 20) - Musée de l'Élysée, Lausanne (P. 21) - Hervé Annen (P. 22, 57, 58) - Fabrice CoffriniI/AFP (P. 26) - Christian Merz/Keystone (P. 27) - Yves Printed in Switzerland Herman/Reuters (P. 27) - Jean-Paul Pelissier/Reuters (P. 27) - Tiziana FABI/AFP INFOLINE +41 (0) 900 929 929 (CHF 0.50 /MIN.) (P. 27) - Lucy Nicholson/Reuters (P. 31) - Cécile Gretsch/Saentys (P. 32, 34, 64, 78) - Cédric Widmer (P. 38) - Gerald Bosshard/Tribune de Genève (P. 41) - Aurélien With the support of: Barrelet/Largenetwork (P. 24–27, 45) - Patrimoine suisse (P. 46) - Archives RTS (P. 47) - Ville de Pully (P. 48) - Autorités de la Confédération suisse (P. 54–55) © Photos Lausanne Tourisme – LT/www.diapo.ch (P. 69, 67, 68, 56, 65, 69, 72, 73, 75, 77) - LT/Laurent Kaczor (P. 65, 67, 68, 69, 71, 72, 73, 75, 80, 88) - LT/ C.Jaccard – www.vaud-photos.ch (P. 68) - Christof Schuerpf (P. 68, 67) - Urs Achermann (P. 68) - Mobimo/Catherine Leutenegger Photography (P. 68) - Switzerland Tourism/Markus Buehler (P. 68) - Filigrane SA (P. 71) - Sarah Jaquemet (P. 73) - Suisse Tourisme Office du tourisme du canton de Vaud CGN.CH 2 CGN-18-7250_Visuel bateau_Annonces FR_ENG_A5_PROD3.indd 2 07.05.18 14:14 CONTENTSSUMMER 2018 - N° 1 CONVERSATION IN THE CITY Platforme 10: Hatching an arts district Page 6 AROUND LAUSANNE New addresses Page 13 5 The pralinated “Giscard”: president’s cute indulgence WEEKENDS Page 18 INTERVIEW CULTURELS Infographics: Architectural walk with the secrets of the boat “La Suisse” Vincent Mangeat ET GRATUITS Page 24 Page 36 ENTRE PARCS Andrea Kucera, BY THE WATER ET RIVES confederate Lausanner The pools and beaches Page 32 Page 42 DU 20 JUILLET James Larus, SCENIC STROLL AU 19 AOÛT 2018 expatriate Lausanner In pursuit of Flon, Page 34 a ghost river MON-REPOS, MILAN Page 54 VALLÉE DE LA JEUNESSE L’HERMITAGE, VALENCY DO NOT FORGET… BELLERIVE ET MONTHERON FAVRE MALIKA ILLUSTRATION ALAFOLIE.CH - The old industrial district of Sévelin reinvents itself as a cultural oasis Page 57 NOT TO BE MISSED TOUTE LA PROGRAMMATION SUR: Iconic Lausanne locations WWW.LAUSANNE.CH/LESGARDENPARTIES Page 64 #GARDENPARTIESLAUSANNE 4 5 LALHE18-Garden-Ann TheLausanner 148x210mm.indd 1 01.05.18 15:19 CONVERSATION IN THE CITY THE SAGA OF LAUSANNE’S NEW ART Bernard Fibicher’s excitement is palpable as he runs This relocation has been causing headaches for and zoology museums or the Cantonal and DISTRICTThree of Lausanne’s museums a finger over the plans. He explains the intracies authorities at both cantonal and local level for University Library of Lausanne, to shine instead. are moving soon to new of the new building which is to house Lausanne’s 27 years. “Back in 1924, Emile Bonjour – who was Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts, the Musée des the director at the time – was already saying It is about to stage a dazzling comeback. On a premises on the same site Beaux-Arts de Lausanne. The director has survived that the premises at the Palais de Rumine were 22,000 sq m site near the station, which used to see what his two predecessors dreamed in vain too small!” Fibicher explains. This lack of space to house train concourses, construction on the near the station. This bold of achieving during their respective terms in office: has always restricted the institution, depriving new building will finish in spring 2019. A second architectural and cultural the relocation of the museum to premises that are it of a permanent exhibition. The director building will be built alongside it by 2021, where more befitting of its standing. “I’m glad it’s happened gives us an example: “We own the biggest the Musée de l’Élysée photography museum and venture, the only one of its kind at the end of my career, as when I visit museums public collection of Félix Vallotton’s work in the the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied around the world I’m almost looking more at their world, but it is hidden away in our archives”. Arts (mudac) will also be taking up residence. in Switzerland, is materialising architectural details than the art,” laughs Fibicher, In its northern wing of the Palais de Rumine, after more than 20 years of who has nevertheless just achieved an artistic the museum appears far too modest, almost As a taster of things to come, the MCB-A team masterstroke in scheduling the superstar Ai Weiwei fading into the background and allowing the has designed an initial exhibition, which will be political horse-trading. for a closing exhibition at the Palais de Rumine. space’s other tenants, such as the geology launched before the work is finished. At the end of The1841 Cantonal The1906 museum moved to “I1991 don’t have a museum, I have a Museum of Fine Arts the recently-built Palais palace!” seethed museum director was founded, which de Rumine. Jörg Zutter when an ingress of water back then was named damaged the artwork. The Council after the painter of State of Vaud professed a wish Marc-Louis Arlaud. for the institution to be relocated. By Sylvain Menétrey TIMELINE 6 7 CONVERSATION IN THE CITY NEW MCB-A: SOUTH FAÇADE Permanent North side Temporary exhibition entrance exhibition Administration Restaurant Old locomotive Library shed’s façade the summer, between 31 August and 9 September, a view over the lake, this wall is entirely blind.