SUMMER/AUTUMNENGLISH 2019 - N° 3

NICE TO MEET YOU

URBAN NATURE

Tom le Jardinier, interview Page 42

PARK LIFE Wild grassland, garden parties, Everything you need to know about the swimming, terraces, and more Page 44 Lausanne Jardins 2019 landscape festival

REINVENTING LAUSANNE’S THE LAST FISHERMAN WHEN ART TAKES OVER NIGHTLIFE IN OUCHY THE CITY STREETS Page 6 Page 20 Page 32 13.04.2019– 15.03.2020

2 NICE TO MEET YOU

EDITORIAL

The city reveals its true nature Come summer, some cities are left devoid of life, and some are suddenly teeming with visitors – Lausanne is the latter. Over the past few years, both the city’s authorities and local business owners have worked hard to capitalise on Lausanne’s incredible shorefront location next to one of the biggest and cleanest lakes in Europe. This year, for example has seen a new beach facility developed in Bellerive outside the Jetée de la Compagnie bar. Another summer development that’s got foodies jumping for joy is a myriad of new artisan ice cream kiosks, many of which are manned by actual Italians with incredibly tasty, closely-guarded recipes. We catch up with a few Lausanne locals, who tip you off on their favourite spots for ice cream (p. 15).

Summer is also the season for cultural events, not least the ever-popular Festival de la Cité – organiser Myriam Kridi tells us more later in the issue. The other date to save for this year is the quinquennial Lausanne Jardins event (p. 47). Around 20 landscape projects will be dotted along a route crossing the city from east to west, and will remain in place until 12 October. This event’s contemporary, sustainable ethos is a perfect fit for a city which is spearheading attempts to make its green heritage management more environmentally-friendly. In this issue, we also explore Lausanne’s various parks, lawns, flowerbeds and kitchen gardens, and the people that keep them looking fresh – like our cover boy, Tom le Jardinier, who is now an international gardening social media star. In addition to being spaces for locals to meet up and enjoy life, the city’s parks – with their kiosks, play areas and unexpected installations – are also set to play host to a series of garden parties this summer. The Lausanner will also be musing the allure of the city’s nightlife, exploring it through the lens of the more feminine and socially aware new wave which has been sweeping through the club scene in recent years (p. 6).

We hope this jam-packed summer schedule gives you a few ideas of how to enjoy life Lausanne-style this summer – our locals will show you how it’s done!

1 This Expo 64 postcard shows the modernist domed roof of the former crèche, sponsored by Nestlé, and the Indian Village in the Vallée de la Jeunesse, a children’s play park created especially for the exposition.

IMPRESSUM

The Lausanner, a tourist welcome and information Image search: magazine about life in Lausanne Sabrine Elias, Joëlle Kercan, LargeNetwork Editorial: Cover: Lausanne Tourisme Tom le Jardinier photographed by Nicolas Schopfer Direction: Advertising: Steeve Pasche Michel Chevallaz +41 79 213 53 15 Editorial production: LargeNetwork Printing: Gremper SA, Basel Graphics: Available in French and English Saentys Writing, administration and announcements: Editor-in-chief: Lausanne Tourisme Sylvain Menétrey, LargeNetwork Av. de Rhodanie 2 Editor: Case postale 975 Viviane Menétrey, LargeNetwork CH-1001 Lausanne Production: +41 21 613 73 73 Nathalie Roux www.lausanne-tourisme.ch e-mail : [email protected] Writing: Trinidad Barleycorn, Erik Freudenreich, Blandine Guignier, Alexandre Lanz, Sylvain Menétrey, Viviane Menétrey, Tiago Pires, Odile Valmont Photography: Exposition Nationale 1964, Collection Roger Monnard (p. 2) – Nicolas Schopfer (p. 5, 42, 47) – Vaud Photos/Claude Jaccard (p. 5) – D! Club (p. 6, 9) – Keystone/Jean-Christophe Bott (p. 8) – Folklor (p. 10) – DR (p. 12, 27) – Gabee (p. 12) – DR (p. 13, 14) – Trinidad Barleycorn (p. 15) – Lausanne Guide (p. 16) – Archives Martine Desarzens Lausanne @collectif de jeunes vivants au Rôtillon (p. 17) – Jeremy Bierer (p. 19, 20) – Loan Nguyen (p. 22) – Keystone/ Photoshot/Fabio Mazzarella (p. 26) – Bernadette Paassen (p. 27) – 20 minutes (p. 27) – AFP/ Valery Hache (p. 27) – Jean-Bernard Sieber (p. 28) – William Gammuto (p. 29) – Candre Mandawe (p. 29) – Collection Musée du Léman (p. 29) – Cécile Gretsch/Saentys (p. 30) – Lundi13/ François Wavre (p. 32) – Marie Magnin (p. 33) – Nicolas Boche (p. 34) – Sylvia Laurent (p. 36) – Stéphanie Gygax (p. 38) – Keystone/Maxime Schmid (p. 41) – Reto Duriet (p. 46) – Julie de Tribolet (p. 46) – USUS (p. 48) – Joost Emmerik and Tomas Degenaar (p. 49) – Opéra de Lausanne (p. 50) – Fernando Guerra (p. 51) – MHL/Claudine Garcia (p. 51) – Lluis Casals (p. 52) – Philippe Weissbrodt (p. 52) © Photos Lausanne Tourisme – Marino Trotta (p. 16, 68) – LT/Jacques Straesslé (p. 40) – LT/Laurent Kaczor (p. 40, 57, 58, 59, 61, 65, 66, 69, 71, 79, 80) – LT/diapo.ch (p. 44, 57, 58, 63, 65, 66, 69, 72, 80) – P. Waterton (p. 58, 59, 63, 76) – Christoph Schuerpf (p. 59) – Catherine Leutenegger Photography (p. 59) – Sarah Jacquemet (p. 66) – LT/Julien Dorol (p. 67, 79) – F. Beau-Cedotec (p. 69) – Lausanne Jardins 2019 (p. 71) – Valeriano Di Domenico (p. 71) – Sylvia Laurent (p. 71) – LT/Samuel Rouge (p. 71) With the support of

2 EXTRAORDINARY TRIPS

CGN.CH CRUISES ON LAKE GENEVA

LAKEXCEPTION

Ann_Lausanner_148x210mm_2019.indd 2 16.04.2019 13:01:07 5 WEEKENDS CULTURELS ET GRATUITS ENTRE PARCS ET RIVES DU 19.07 AU 18.08.2019 MILAN, MONREPOS, BELLERIVE, L’HERMITAGE ET VALENCY

TOUTE LA PROGRAMMATION SUR: WWW.GARDENPARTIESLAUSANNE.CH

#GARDENPARTIESLAUSANNE ALAFOLIE.CH  ILLUSTRATION MAUDE GYGER MAUDE ILLUSTRATION ALAFOLIE.CH

LALHE19-Garden-Ann TheLausanner 148x210mm.indd 1 12.04.19 16:04 CONTENTSSUMMER/AUTUMN 2019 - N° 3

THE TALK OF THE TOWN Lausanne nightlife: where collectives are reinventing the party scene Page 6

LAUSANNE IN MOTION Top new spots Page 12

Four ice cream shops awarded the seal of approval by local foodies Page 15 THE INTERVIEW Myriam Kridi makes culture Catch of the day, fisherman accessible at the Festival Serge Guidoux de la Cité Page 20 Page 32

Infographic: a breakdown of traditional Vaud clothing Page 24 LAUSANNE’S GREEN SIDE The parks, bars, and landscaping Yan Luong, festival turning the city green the local digital strategist Page 38 and discerning foodie Page 30

OUT AND ABOUT On the trail of modern architectural gems Page 50

NOT TO BE MISSED Iconic Lausanne locations Page 54

5 TALK OF THE TOWN

COLLECTIVES REINVENTING THE NIGHT

Named the party capital of French-speaking Switzerland in the 1990s, Lausanne is experiencing something of a revival thanks to young event organisers who are making music more gender- inclusive and political. Even so, the line-ups at the big clubs still feature some top names.

By Alexandre Lanz and Sylvain Menétrey

During the 1980s, New York street artist Keith Haring came to Lausanne to party. What’s more, he also designed the logo for legendary rock club La Dolce Vita. The fact that it remains in the collections at the Musée Historique 20 years after the club’s closure is testament to the importance of after-dark alternative culture in the city. Lausanne also prides itself on being the top nightlife spot in French-speaking Switzerland since the 1990s. There’s been the odd scandal here and there, but the city’s reputation has only served to increase the appeal of its constantly-evolving club scene.

There are 23 nightclubs in Lausanne in 2019, which are paradises for techno, Latin, hip- At D! Club (see hop and old-school rock lovers. But these venues and musical styles don’t give us the photo) and other full picture of the revolution that is stirring on the Lausanne nightlife scene. places, more and more initiatives are fuelling Lausanne’s WOMEN ON THE DECKS nightlife. Just like in London, Paris and Berlin, where people are less loyal to an actual club than to the idea of raves which can happen anywhere, now it is fresh-thinking collectives of DJs and event organisers who are leading the way. Although eclectic in style, these collectives are united in their desire to break out of the box, whether that be the traditional surrounds of a nightclub, musical genre, identity or sexual orientation. “Queer nights have become a big thing in Lausanne, for example,” explains DJ and organiser StaStava. She herself is part of the movement to promote more fusion and female representation in the scene through the events she organises with her Mega Mood association at Le Bourg. “We’ve seen a lot of collectives supporting diversity and a range of music gaining ground in Berlin, and young people in Lausanne started wondering if they could replicate that movement here.

6 Clubs like Le Romandie, Le Bourg and Folklor This young, women-led tide has still not totally took these collectives in, offering them nights eclipsed the old school, which is still prominent in where they were in charge of the music, the big venues like MAD (Moulin à danse) and D! Club look, and the marketing.” StaStava says that that focus on international headline acts and sound technological progress has played a part in quality. Lausanne’s student-heavy population does the development of these collectives and the wonders for this dynamic: with ECAL, UNIL, EPFL and greater diversity appearing on the scene. “You the Hospitality Management School in its midst, don’t need that much training these days to be the city is full of youngsters who work hard and a DJ. You download your playlist at home on a play hard. “In the space of 20 years, the Hospitality memory stick, then you come and plug it into Management School has gone from having 400 the decks and mess around with your mates. This students to almost 3,000. They go out a lot and change in technology has encouraged more girls make excellent customers,” says Thierry Wegmüller, to get involved, who feel more able to establish a magnate of the Lausanne nightlife scene and themselves in the macho DJ scene when there’s owner of, among others, D! Club, and its younger a group of them together.” sibling Bar Club ABC. →

7 TALK OF THE TOWN

Silent disco goers on the promenade of the Cathedral.

Although the city has basked in vibes were taking over popular that two huge techno the glow of being the number Lausanne. Thanks to a clever festivals, Atlantis and Movement, one nightlife spot since the exclusivity agreement with each with their own set of stars 1990s, the years before that other business owners in the on the decks, were held in clubs were much gloomier. area, MAD managed to remain on the very same weekend at the only place in the city centre the start of the new millennium. LA DOLCE VITA to offer this genre for years. Be “I’ll never forget those years, TRAILBLAZERS that as it may, two competitors when all these different worlds In the early 1980s, their did spring up in the late 1990s, collided. In just one night you boredom led Lausanne’s in the form of Loft and D! Club. could go from one club to the youngsters to take their Both pumped out their own 120- next, with big names in techno bleakness to the streets. La bpm music, and became in turn and electro playing at every Dolce Vita opened in 1985 their own clubbing Meccas. single one,” remembers one as part of the Lôzane Bouge clubber. It was also the start movement. Punks, goths and The bars, clubs and cinemas in of years of excess. Tired of the other social groups all gathered Lausanne are all within walking brawls and vandalism caused there in the haze of smoke, distance, which encourages by clubbers looking to take their surrounded by oceans of beer partygoers to roam. The “club after-party to the streets, city and a libertarian vibe. culture” hit its peak in the early authorities decided to turn the 2000s, lifting the city to heights volume down. Since 2013, certain MAD opened in its wake, in where it became an unmissable clubs have been required to the industrial, warehouse- stop on the circuit for DJs like close at 3 am, and shops are filled neighbourhood of Flon. Sven Väth, Roger Sanchez banned from selling alcohol Electronic music and hedonistic and Laurent Garnier. It was so after 8 pm at the weekends.

8 Organiser Olivier Meylan collaborated with institutions under the arches of the played his cards just right like the Olympic Museum and Grand-Pont bridge, the when calm settled once again the Museum Night initiative.” venue offers rock and electro over the city. line-ups. One year on, the The scaling back of Association du Salopard SILENCE! LET’S DANCE... Lausanne’s nightlife also created Le Bourg, a cultural To avoid complaints about gave more niche community project with a niche scene in night-time noise pollution, projects a chance to flourish. a former cinema, complete the entrepreneur introduced Occasionally provocative with floral wallpaper and a the idea of silent discos... with cultural festivals combining programme which stands out resounding success. Headsets cinema, performing arts, due to its propensity for the on, revellers flooded into concerts and parties – like unknown. “Our line-up can be all kinds of places. “Silent the famous La Fête Du Slip quite adventurous, with a few discos were a sort of next- which began in 2012 and groups which are practically generation type of disco, celebrates sexuality of all unheard of,” acknowledges with the tech allowing people kinds – have appeared on Dimitri Meier, one of the to get involved and choose the scene. The …E la Nave Va association’s schedulers. what they wanted to listen association has managed Le “But we’ve seen entries go to,” Meylan explains. “We Romandie since it opened up and up for about the looked for cool places, and back in 2004. Now tucked last two years.” →

“THE NIGHTLIFE IN LAUSANNE IS ECLECTIC, ABUNDANT, EXCITING AND UNINHIBITED”

Owner of D! Club for 17 years, Thierry Wegmüller highlights the importance of always bringing something new to the table. Habits change, and beats blend.

“Managing a club is not a hobby. I often “Fridays here are dedicated to the biggest compare it to being at a mixing desk: you’re names in electro – it’s kind of our calling card. constantly adjusting multiple sliders at the On Saturdays, half our clientele have travelled same time. Things that worked three years to be here. That means Lausanne still has a ago just don’t anymore. reputation of being a top nightlife destination in Switzerland. Weekend tourism to Berlin, London “When we started doing hip-hop in the and Barcelona definitely has an effect on that, 1990s, people didn’t understand that you but on the flip side young people have started could offer multiple genres in the same club to ask themselves whether it makes sense – and and we suffered our fair share of criticism whether it’s any good for the environment – to – but we kept at it. People’s mentalities be getting on a plane to go out and party. I get have evolved since then. Nowadays, young the feeling that they’re becoming more aware people will listen to both electro and hip-hop of their role in shaping how the world is going to in the same night. turn out – and that’s great.”

9 TALK OF THE TOWN

The end of the rowdiest nights on Wednesdays and Thursdays, seems to be getting the scene has not signalled the end of and a slightly older client base going and making it even more the diehard electro culture. So, on the weekends. “80% of our diverse. It makes it easier for since December 2016, Folklor visitors are from Lausanne, but communities to form on social has been catering for both the people come from Geneva, Bern media, and means that mixing en-masse club craze of the 1990s and Zurich for our international and production tools are more and the more alternative scene DJs. The best bit about this place accessible. It even means you that sprang up after about 2010. is that you don’t have to put can dance without a single This new venue is a place where up with the aggression of the sound! ■ you can lose all trace of time, mainstream electro music scene: escaping into the beats of local these people aren’t teenage collectives and superstar DJs yobs, but real party animals who booked by a team of experts. are passionate about music,” “We are a 100% electro club from he says. Wednesday to Saturday,” says Ramon Lorenzo, one of the club’s The Lausanne nightlife scene owners. Located at basement has also shown itself to be level to the north of the Place de surprisingly full of life, despite la Riponne, Folklor has managed the fact that more and more to create a sort of melting pot socialising is done online. made up of 19- to 20-year-olds On the contrary, technology Opened in December 2016, the Folklor offers a cutting-edge, 100% electronic line-up. REINVENTION REINVENTION

10 The nightlife spots

Over the years, Lausanne has forged a nocturnal LE BOURG, EST. 2005 identity featuring a good mix of alternative culture With papered walls, a small stage and a balcony, and mainstream clubs. Now, some of the industry’s a touch of the cinema lingers over this gig venue. earliest trailblazers stand side by side with Which makes sense, seeing as it was actually newcomers, each as broad-minded as the last. once a cinema. The programme there is eclectic and wide-ranging, featuring gigs, performances, MAD, EST. 1985 private album listening parties and DJ sets. Five floors, four dancefloors, a restaurant, a hotel www.le-bourg.ch with a rooftop terrace and a café: for anyone looking for a classic club experience in Lausanne, FOLKLOR, EST. 2016 MAD is still a mecca. When the local authorities imposed a 3 a.m. closing www.madclub.ch time on La Ruche, the club’s founders decided to take its party atmosphere and create Folklor D! CLUB, EST. 1996 in the Place de la Riponne. But, this time around, Twenty-three years after it first opened, the former with no danger of annoying the neighbours. theatre – which was converted into a cinema www.folklor.club before becoming a club in 1996 – is still one of the

REINVENTION city’s most iconic venues. Ranked the best big A DECADE OF COLLECTIVES, 2010 – 2019 club in Switzerland several times over, its student The modern-day club scene has the feel of nights on Thursdays are particularly popular. At the Facebook groups about it. Qult Collective weekend, the stage belongs to some of the biggest organises queer nights at Le Romandie. La electro and house DJs, with the club also hosting Sacrée Déter supports local artists at Folklor.

REINVENTION iconic hip-hop nights and gigs. Danse Noire label DJs regularly showcase www.dclub.ch experimental electro music around the city. And the feminist band Où Êtes Vous Toutes BAR CLUB ABC, EST. 2014 seeks to extricate itself from everyday club The old cinema balcony upstairs at D! Club has set-ups and get the party going in bars and its own schedule of events, including the buzzing other places off the beaten nightlife track. queer nights organised by Lausanne local Francis Ases as well as comedy and stand-up gigs at the start of the evening. www.dclub.ch

JAGGER’S, EST. 2001 A basement club paying tribute to the Rolling Folklor Stones frontman or his ex-wife Bianca, who once turned up to Studio 54 in New York on a white

horse. The music at Jagger’s oscillates between The Cathedral rock and disco. MAD D! Club Bar Club ABC

Lausanne-Flon Le Bourg Jagger’s

11 Lausanne in motion

A PRE-LOVED CLOTHES CAFÉ Fresh onto the second-hand shop scene and with the customary vintage look about it, the Café des Patronnes also has a little café nestled between its changing rooms. A visit to the boutique, which was opened by two fashionistas, is a must for anyone who loves bagging themselves a pre-loved bargain. There are all sorts of deals to be had on the rails, from designer pieces to major retailers. The shop’s Instagram account is a great way to keep an eye on the latest arrivals. NEW PLACES

Le Café des Patronnes Rue du Valentin 43, Lausanne www.cafedespatronnes.ch PLACES NEW

Instagram: @cafedespatronnes

BAGS THAT ARE BOTH STYLISH AND ETHICAL “QWSTION”. There’s a name that gets you thinking – questioning the norm, even. That’s great, because that is exactly what the minds behind this new multi-brand concept store, which has its roots in Zurich and opened a few months ago on Rue du Tunnel, want you to do. You’ll find chic, minimalist and fully-traceable bags there, all stamped with the Qwstion logo – some of which are made from permaculture- grown banana plant fibres – as well as ceramics, clothing, pens and even magazines soon, all hitting the mark in both style and ethics.

QWSTION Rue du Tunnel 7, Lausanne www.qwstion.com

12 A BACKDROP OF THE LAKE Being at The Lacustre is like being at the beach – only a stone’s throw from the water’s edge. The team from Great Escape (the sports bar overlooking Place de la Riponne) has now taken the helm of this institution that sits above the CGN ticket office in Ouchy. It’s a popular spot for tourists and locals alike looking for a drink or a bite to eat, and has a great view out over the boats. Its pizzas and plats du jour are just as popular as the apéros and weekend brunches. The terrace is packed as soon as the sun comes out.

The Lacustre Quai Jean-Pascal Delamuraz 1, Lausanne NEW PLACES NEW PLACES NEW

ABOVE THE TRAFFIC Its name is Loxton: a cross between Lausanne and the trendy East London district of Hoxton. Fans of hipster café Pointu on Rue Neuve will love this new city-centre restaurant. With its first venture proving a hit, blogger, interior designer and Lausanne local Sofia Clara’s team took over these first-floor premises on the corner of Rue Centrale and Rue du Pont. Its terrace overlooks the maelstrom of city life, whilst the interior is light and bright. The menu combines fusion cooking, veggie dishes and burgers. Brunch is served on Saturdays and Sundays.

Loxton Rue du Pont 22, Lausanne www.loxton.ch

13 local ingredients. organic, with made treats tasty and bowls buddha food, hot juices, vegetable and fruit cold-pressed preparing bar, lovingly the behind works that family same by the run is café take-away This scene. vegan Lausanne the onto arrival anew also is which Riponne, la de Place from far not café Racines, little cute for goes same The ingredients. locally-grown with made take are away, and or in to eat available are Dishes workshops. other and sessions meditation classes, to yoga home also is which space, creative their in area restaurant the from food tasty L’Assise simple, station, the serves from down Just buffet. all-day an and Malakoffs, sausage, seitan a with served hotpot potato and leek a traditional vaudois, papet areworked enjoy can diners specialities, regional to other addition In station. train Lausanne’s in Gare la de Buffet former the of surroundings winter last whichchains, opened the inside grandiose vegetarian and vegan major Switzerland’s of one Tibits, is latest The scene. culinary Lausanne’s onto way their made recently have restaurants meat-free Several plant-based choice in the region’s capital. more and more popular, there’s now of plenty With vegan and vegetarian cuisine becoming dishes Plant-based www.tibits.ch Lausanne 11, Gare la de Place Tibits >>>>>>>>> EHL TAKES TOP SPOT EHL Lausanne’s Hospitality Lausanne’s Hospitality Management School School Management ranked number one one number ranked in the world by QS byQS world the in World University (EHL) has been been has (EHL) Rankings 2019. LAUSANNE EXPRESS >>>>>>>>> LAUSANNE IN MOTION IN LAUSANNE www.l-assise.ch Av. Lausanne 103, Cour de L’Assise – Third Place the event. The first Ladies Ladies first The event. the Open Lausanne will take will Lausanne Open Championship Gstaad, place from 13 to from 21 July. place taking up the torch for torch for the up taking Lausanne is flying the the flying is Lausanne GAME, SET, MATCHGAME, flag for international women’s tennis and After the Ladies Ladies Afterthe 14 www.racines.ch Lausanne 11, Neuve Rue Racines Racines participants will explore participants the city through a series aseries through city the is joining Porto, Brussels Brussels Porto, joining is of different challenges. and Geneva in hosting On 29 June, Lausanne Lausanne June, 29 On its very first Pop In the the In Pop first very its

RALLY CITY THE IN

race where the 550 550 the where race City, an all-women NEW PLACES NEW

STREET INTERVIEW NEW PLACES NEW

STREET INTERVIEW ice cream favourite artisan Lausanne locals’ excellent.” is really it where Loom at especially stuff, mass-produced to the cream ice artisan Iprefer stracciatella. or fruit passion caramel, salted be it’ll then flavour second a I’m If getting cornet. a in chocolate of ascoop get always “I delicious.” was It chocolate. mint and amaretto Today Igot course! of acornet, In flavour. adifferent choose Ican Igo time every that means –it offer on range huge the and lake, to the next location the I love summer. the over aweek once least at I go tiny. to Iwas Veneta since going been “I’ve Lausanne d’Ouchy,Quai Place du Vieux-Port, Boulevard de Grancy 45, Lausanne 45, Grancy de Boulevard Veneta, Veneta, Loom, Loom, chocolate ice cream. cream. ice chocolate Veneta in Ouchy. Veneta Ouchy. in has a soft spot for Loom’s Loom’s for spot asoft has 23, loves the cornets at at cornets the loves 23, lab technician at EPFL and and EPFL at technician lab Aurélien Oggier, 30, is a 30, is Oggier, Aurélien Student Andrea Turrisi,

15 locals to tell us where to go. where us to tell locals asked and spring this streets the We hit cousins. Italian its as to offer much as just has now Lausanne makers, cream ice artisan of terms In mango and coconut cornet.” coconut and mango a mygo-to: recommend also Iwould flavour. hazelnut-cookie the Today Itried friendly. really excellent, and the Italian are staff is cream ice The front. shop their past bywalking just ago, years few a bychance Intrigo across came “I Italian.”it’s very – atmosphere the like Ialso me. for important really is handmade is there cream ice the that fact The good! so is tiramisu the because else anything get Inever tiramisu. flavour, favourite my of acup for afortnight once Icome there. worked who afriend from ago years two GeA about out Ifound ages. for place gelato good a for Lausanne Isearched and “I’m Italian, Rue Enning 8, Lausanne 8, Enning Rue Rue Pichard 11, Lausanne 11, Pichard Rue GeA, GeA, Intrigo, Intrigo, the tiramisu at GeA. GeA. at tiramisu the of approval to Intrigo. to Intrigo. approval of Kaeser, 23, gives her seal seal her gives Kaeser, 23, works in a bank and loves loves and abank in works Student Amandine Rachele Lamanna, 33, LAUSANNE IN MOTION

The Ouchy Fiction and wind vane fondue Over the past 25 years, Eole has established itself as the city’s most famous piece of public art. We take a closer look at the monument, which conceals an astonishing amount of engineering under its seemingly weightless exterior.

While Geneva has its Jet d’Eau water fountain, Lausanne has its own lakeside icon in the form of its famous Ouchy weather vane. Christened Eole, the 20-metre-high masterpiece was created by Clélia Bettua and has stood out on the horizon since 1994. The aluminium and fibreglass crescent changes direction with the wind and was installed during the redevelopment of the Place de la Navigation, which The former watering hole of famous was a car park in its former life. Now the square is Swiss writer Jacques Chessex, the Café home to water features and pontoons, as well as de l’Évêché is well-loved for its fondue four stone blocks that are part of the structure. The and – during the summer – its fabulous HISTORY semi-circular weather vane changes position with terrace. the wind to visually complete the cavity carved into each monolith and form a perfect circle. With its medieval fresco-inspired walls, the Café de l’Évêché has been a favourite haunt The sculpture’s meteorological poetry even goes of students from the neighbouring school, ETHNOGRAPHY as far as the stones which have been sourced from writers, and day-trippers since 1952. During quarries located at the four points of the compass, the summer months, everyone’s desperate reflecting the four main winds that blow across to nab a seat on the gorgeous terrace out Lake Geneva. Bettua remembers the human and at the back. This little oasis of greenery, technical feat her 4.5-tonne sculpture entailed all with bushes clinging all along its walls, is too well. “The helicopter carrying it out had to make the perfect place to shut out the hustle and two attempts. The pilot told me that if it spun, he bustle of the city over a meal. would have to drop it in the lake. It was incredibly stressful.” With these precarious origins now a But if anything, most people flock to “l’Évêch” thing of the past, her work – which was tested in – as the popular café is known by the city’s wind tunnels at the École polytechnique fédérale residents – for its fondue, be it the beer- de Lausanne (EPFL) – encourages reflection, and infused, Armagnac-spiked, or unadulterated invites onlookers to become one with the elements. Vacherin Fribourgeois version, for which it is one of the most famous spots in the city. More recently, the luscious hot chocolate which was once served in the legendary Café Barbare nearby has also been a draw – that café is now closed for refurbishment, but the recipe has happily made its way into the capable hands at l’Évêché.

Café de l’Évêché Rue Louis Curtat 4, Lausanne www.leveche.ch

16 Tired of being bored

The Lausanner’s “Lausanne in Motion” section is a heartfelt nod to the Lôzane Bouge protest movement of the early 1980s. To make sure we give credit where credit’s due, here’s a flashback.

Similarly to the May 1968 events in France, Lausanne’s Lôzane Bouge movement can be summed up in a single flagship slogan: “We don’t want a world where the guarantee

HISTORY that we shall not die of starvation brings the risk of dying of boredom”. Former environmental politician Anne-Catherine Menétrey was part of the advocacy group that mediated ETHNOGRAPHY between the protesting youths and the authorities. She remembers the first protest, which took place during the Comptoir Suisse National Fair in September 1980: “Young people were protesting in the street about Salazar, the Portuguese dictator, being invited as a guest of honour to Switzerland’s event”. The force with The first page of a manifesto which the which the police cracked down on the protest was the straw that broke young people behind the camel’s back. “Over the course of several months, more and more Lôzane Bouge presented demonstrations took place in Bellerive and elsewhere, every Saturday with their demands. ahead of the 24 Heures paper being written, with a range of demands being made.”

These demands included calls to open an autonomous centre, lower cinema ticket prices, liberalise cannabis and end the process of keeping records on homosexuals, all accompanied by leaflets, chants and songs in the street. Menétrey describes it as “a build-up of dreams and, ultimately, a sort of existential need”. It was these events amongst others which led to the creation of pop-up independent concert venue Cabaret Orwell – which went on to become La Dolce Vita – and, although they caused several violent clashes and arrests, undeniably made Lausanne a much happier place to be.

17 RESTAURANT VEGETARIAN www.tibits.ch | www.tibits.ch Lausanne 1003 11, Gare la de Place Lausanne tibits & BAR &

IN THE MARKETPLACE Florists budding with fresh ideas For every new edition, The Lausanner swings by a different market stall at the Place de la Riponne market, which takes place on Wednesdays and Saturdays and fills every pedestrian street in the city centre and, since recently, Place Saint-François. The Visinands’ bouquets, near Place de la Riponne, created from locally-picked flowers, are a firm favourite there and have been for years.

Interview by Trinidad Barleycorn

How long have you been coming to the Place de la Riponne market? Chantal Visinand: My husband started coming 35 years ago. I joined him after we met in 1998. We sell seasonal flowers and we don’t have a heated greenhouse, so we don’t come over the winter.

What flowers do you sell? CV: We sell perennials, like peonies, roses, forsythia bushes, pussy willow, asters and aconite, as well as biennials and annuals like dahlias and sunflowers. IN THE MARKETPLACE We love simple, rustic-looking flowers.

Where do you grow them? CV: In Blonay. We grow everything as naturally as possible. We treat oidium when we need to, but we tend to choose varieties which are not susceptible to the disease.

What’s your favourite thing about the Lausanne market? CV: We love the exchange between the city and the countryside – it’s incredible. This is a lively market, and you find people of all ages here. Our customers are very loyal, and we have built up really good relationships with the other stallholders. It’s like one big family.

What made you decide to grow flowers instead of salads? What would your perfect bouquet look like? Pierre Visinand: We inherited a bit of land in PV: Harmony is key for me, and I do love round Blonay which I used to work on with my parents. bouquets. But we enjoy arranging every single They used to sell vegetables at the market in flower. We’ve learnt that even flowers that we don’t Vevey. One day we just asked ourselves – why not like as much play an important role when you put sell flowers instead? them all together in a bouquet.

19 AROUND LAUSANNE The last fisherman in Ouchy VIEW LAKE LAKE

20 Serge Guidoux catches perch, pike, Arctic hour later to find it was twenty past two! When char, and – most importantly – fera, the I turned 30, I decided it was time for a change. local fish which he has helped to promote. My parents told me I would starve. I didn’t listen We visit the port to meet the famous to them, and good job too: now I’m a happy fisherman of the Lake. man. Fishing is freedom. For the past 25 years, time has flown by. Interview by Odile Valmont You’ve worked hard to raise awareness of Lake The owner of the Pêcherie d’Ouchy is something Geneva’s star fish, the fera. Has it paid off? of a local celebrity, with top chefs such as Yes! When I started out, my customers wanted Anne-Sophie Pic at the Beau-Rivage Palace and fillets of perch, and nothing else. When I caught Stéphane Décotterd at Le Pont de Brent singing fera, I couldn’t sell it. Then, when I was working his praises.* His traditional smoking techniques to promote fish from the lake, I convinced some won him a gold medal for regional produce back top chefs to get behind fera as an option. The in 2016. The only fisherman currently operating message trickled down. Now, I don’t have out of Lausanne harbour, he is also one of the enough fera to go around! It’s a delicate, tender last to use a type of active gillnetting technique fish which is difficult to export: when there’s fera known as fishing “à la monte”. At 57 years old, he on the menu, you can be sure that it was caught is beginning to wonder what will happen after he domestically. Not like perch, which is very often is gone... imported.

What is fishing “à la monte”? Will there be more fishermen in Ouchy after you? Serge Guidoux: It’s a type of active fishing – you I don’t know. I would love to find someone to drop the net and lift it out straight away, unlike follow in my footsteps. But even if I do, what VIEW with passive fishing where you place the nets in kind of job will they be left with? There are more the evening and they fill up with fish while you and more CGN boats out and about on the lake LAKE LAKE sleep. But this type of gillnetting is gradually – pleasure boats too, along with pedalos and disappearing: I am the only one in Lausanne still paddle boats. Everyone acts like they’re the only fishing this way. ones out there, and I get insults thrown at me when I tell them to be careful not to plough into Why? me. It doesn’t make sense: when these people go It’s very technical and requires a lot of skill. You into a restaurant, they all want fish from the lake. need to understand the currents and the places But it seems to be getting more and more difficult where you’ll find the fish, known as “traits de for them to understand that they have to make monte”. Each place has its own name. Near room for a fisherman to actually do the job. Ouchy you’ve got La Tour, La Relevée, Mirella, and Le Général, which is the best corner of the lake, outside of General Guisan’s house. * Serge’s fish also features on the menu at Lausanne restaurants La Brasserie de Montbenon, Le Mirabeau and the Château d’Ouchy. Who taught you all this? The Pêcherie d’Ouchy is open to the general public from I was lucky enough to find old pros to teach me. Wednesday to Saturday between 08:00 and 12:00. Ch. des Jacky Bovet is one of them, and lives in Ouchy – his Pêcheurs 9 (at the end of the harbour, opposite Mövenpick) father was a fisherman, but Jacky gave it up to go Tel.: +41 (0) 21 617 72 06. and work in the city. When I got in touch he was so pleased to see a young man interested in fishing à la monte, and took it up again so he could show me how to do it.

Your family wasn’t into fishing though… My father was a lorry driver and I did an apprenticeship as a postman. But an office job just wasn’t for me. I used to look at the clock and it was ten past two, then look again an

21 LAUSANNE IN MOTION

An artist’s perspective of Vidy Beach IN PICTURES

Vidy and the beach become a central part of Lausanne life over the summer – what with students celebrating the end of the year, families looking for a bit of space and people playing games, the shores of the lake (or the “bordul” as they are known here) are crammed with people from all walks of life. Lausanne photographer Loan Nguyen has affectionately immortalised this little world and its haze of sausages sizzling on barbeques, in “Vidy/Rivage”, which will be displayed at the Vidy- Lausanne Theatre this spring.

22 16.04.19 13:32

The hotel is one of the unsung treasures of the city. It of is one of the city. The hotel the unsung treasures and station the train from just 400 meters is located quiet rooms. 75 offers hotel The 4-star Lausanne’s Métro. www.mirabeau.ch

Best Western Plus Best Western Mirabeau Hôtel 31 de la Gare Avenue Lausanne, Suisse 1003 T +41 21 341 42 43 [email protected] A haven of peace A haven NOT EXPECT WOULD AS YOU IN SUCH A CENTRAL LOCATION Mirabeau-Annonce-A5-FR.indd 2

IN PICTURES “Borne” hat People say the grape pick- ers used to leave their straw hats on the stakes A BREAK- used to support the Vintner’s hat vines. Coupled with the One of these is presented to heat and humidity, this the winner of the Jean-Louis is what’s meant to have Jewellery DOWN OF wine-tasting competition. given them their iconic Protestant austerity A lady won it in 2016! shape. There’s only one meant that ladies place in Switzerland that couldn’t wear more makes them nowadays. than a single pendant, DuringVAUD the summer, Vaud DRESS folk traditions which had to be made are everywhere in Vevey with the arrival of garnets – precious of the Fête des Vignerons winegrowers’ Bodice stones found in the Vaud festival. Villagers dress up in traditional This is made from mountains. outfits for the occasion, so we thought “galette”, a type of heavy we’d take a look at a couple which woollen cloth from were worn by most people in the th German-speaking Vaud region during the 18 century. Switzerland. Blouse They were updated to the current * This is the only piece of versions in 1916. Swiss clothing to have Skirt Empire-style starched Aurélien Barrelet/LargeNetwork The pleated Empire skirt balloon sleeves. is shorter now than it was th Shirt in the 19 century, where White with long, it fell below the ankle. old-fashioned sleeves.

Waistcoat Gloves “Tsausses à portettes” These are made of wool These crocheted gloves This is what these thin and are always brightly were worn with the plain woollen breeches, worn coloured. outfit as Sunday best. without a belt, are called in the local dialect. They stop just below the knee when worn for dancing, but Basket Apron vintners wore them down to These were oval and Contrary to popular their ankles. made of wicker, with two belief, this silk garment lids and one handle. They was a sign of wealth. were just big enough to slip in a bottle of wine and a corkscrew.

Shoes *The Cantonal Association of Vaud These needed to be slippy Clothing (ACCV) has outfits available for dancing the waltz. for hire. If you want to make your own erre & Nature T erre Lausanne; , Payot, suisses Eberlé, Costumes Witzig and Edwige Louise President); Schnell (ACCV Patricia Sources: outfit, they also sell patterns.

24 “Borne” hat People say the grape pick- ers used to leave their straw hats on the stakes A BREAK- used to support the Vintner’s hat vines. Coupled with the One of these is presented to heat and humidity, this the winner of the Jean-Louis is what’s meant to have Jewellery DOWN OF wine-tasting competition. given them their iconic Protestant austerity A lady won it in 2016! shape. There’s only one meant that ladies place in Switzerland that couldn’t wear more makes them nowadays. than a single pendant, VAUDDuring the summer, Vaud DRESS folk traditions which had to be made are everywhere in Vevey with the arrival of garnets – precious of the Fête des Vignerons winegrowers’ Bodice stones found in the Vaud festival. Villagers dress up in traditional This is made from mountains. outfits for the occasion, so we thought “galette”, a type of heavy we’d take a look at a couple which woollen cloth from were worn by most people in the th German-speaking Vaud region during the 18 century. Switzerland. Blouse They were updated to the current * This is the only piece of versions in 1916. Swiss clothing to have Skirt Empire-style starched Aurélien Barrelet/LargeNetwork The pleated Empire skirt balloon sleeves. is shorter now than it was th Shirt in the 19 century, where White with long, it fell below the ankle. old-fashioned sleeves.

Waistcoat Gloves “Tsausses à portettes” These are made of wool These crocheted gloves This is what these thin and are always brightly were worn with the plain woollen breeches, worn coloured. outfit as Sunday best. without a belt, are called in the local dialect. They stop just below the knee when worn for dancing, but Basket Apron vintners wore them down to These were oval and Contrary to popular their ankles. made of wicker, with two belief, this silk garment lids and one handle. They was a sign of wealth. were just big enough to slip in a bottle of wine and a corkscrew.

Shoes *The Cantonal Association of Vaud These needed to be slippy Clothing (ACCV) has outfits available for dancing the waltz. for hire. If you want to make your own erre & Nature erre T Lausanne; , Payot, suisses Eberlé, Costumes Witzig and Edwige Louise President); Schnell (ACCV Patricia Sources: outfit, they also sell patterns.

25 GAZETTE

GAZETTE Matt Dillon during a promotional tour for the Lars Trier Von film, The house that Jack built in 2018. festival 26 LAUSANNE IN MOTION introduced by its lead actor, Matt Dillon. During

their free time, VIPs were invited explore to the region with visits the to Rolex Learning the Collection Center, de Brutl’Art and the Giger HR and Charlie Chaplin museums, as well as a wine tasting in Lavaux. After After havingrolled out thered carpet for Christopher duringWalken his first event in 2018, local comedian Vincent Perez excelled once again this inviting year, French actress and director Agnès Jaoui, Spanish actress Rossy de Palma, French director Jean-Jacques Annaud and American writer and producer Joel part Coen take to in screenings and talks at Rencontres 7e Art. The festival ended on a high too, with the closing film Drugstore Cowboy It was just like Cannes all again over in Lausanne with the March film festival founded Perez. Vincent by

Rencontres 7e Art Rencontres Matt Dillon at the close of the the of close Matt at the Dillon

enjoyed enjoyed

the French equivalent of After After her book signing in Lausanne in February, the four- time winner of Danse avec les stars, Dancing, Come Strictly Sous-Gare the round looking neighbourhood catching before her train. Captivated by the ambiance at the Savoy, Royal where she enjoyed a cup of tea, the performer – who will soon be appearing on stage in the capitalVaud – vowed she would be back sample to the five-star hotel’s menu, created by chef Haeberlin. Marc DENITSA IKONOMOVA DENITSA KEEN EAT TO LAUSANNE IN

27

WYCLEF JEAN JAMMING LAKESIDE On his way through Lausanne last summer, the star accepted a last-minute invitation from Couleur 3 radio station take to part in the Toutouyoutou show, which was broadcast from the Jetée de la Compagnie. The result was an improvised jam session from the former overlooking rapper Fugees the lake. Onlookers enjoyed a brief anthology of tunes before he ended the session, shouting: “I take gotta a go now!” swim

Venice Venice th actor did

Chocolat

Biennale. Their Backwards Moving exhibition looks at how people put space between themselves and the artists The Other. the or unfamiliar, will put on literal a representation of this desire retreat, to and will behind other withdrawing be performers in a choreographed piece accompanied by films objects. animated and Pavilion, Swiss Giardini della Biennale, Biennale, della Giardini November 24 until Venice, Lausanne artist Pauline Boudry (on the right) sidekick her and Renate Lorenz have over taken the Swiss Pavilion for the 58 not go unnoticed during his time in Lausanne. He was in the city for a performance at the Vidy- Lausanne Theatre late last year and, according the to manager Takioullah where Aulac at Hôtel staying, Jean-Philippewas Fleury, he enjoyed walking along the edge of the lake and visiting the Olympic Museum during his free time: “He appreciated how discreet people here were, and how he didn’t get stopped in the street every two seconds”. BRAHIM TAKIOULLAH, BRAHIM TAKIOULLAH, SECOND-TALLEST PERSON IN THE WORLD, IN VIDY A LAUSANNER BACKPEDALLING IN VENICEA LAUSANNER BACKPEDALLING Standing at 2.46 m, the French- Moroccan GAZETTE

GAZETTE LAUSANNE IN MOTION

Museum of Fine Arts to open its doors GAZETTE

After several years of work, the big day has February will see a change of scenery with the finally arrived: the new Cantonal Museum first of the year’s nine temporary exhibitions, of Fine Arts (m-cba) will open to the public À fleur de peau (Under the Skin), Vienna 1900, on 5 October in Plateforme 10 on the Place Klimt, Schiele and Kokoschka, and the opening de la Gare. of the permanent collection. This free exhibition will display 300 works of art from the Vaud Its new home, which was designed by Spanish region, dating from the 18th century all the way architecture firm EBV, is of an international up to the present day, for which there was no size and standing, giving the museum the room in the m-cba’s smaller former premises opportunity to accept plenty of donations at the Palais de Rumine. The Jardin d’Hiver from collectors and patrons. The inaugural biennial exhibitions will be launched in June display returns the favour by making artwork 2020, and will showcase the work of local provided over the years by private donors the contemporary artists. star of the show. The Atlas – A Cartography of Donations exhibition will run until 16 February 2020, filling the entire building with loaned Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts, and donated pieces along with works by opens 5 October: Plateforme 10, Vallotton, Rodin, Klee, Balthus, Giovanni Place de la Gare 16, 1003 Lausanne Giacometti and many more. www.mcba.ch

28 TRIATHLON ADDICTS IN ACTION From 29 August to 1 September, the eyes of the sporting world will be riveted on Lausanne, where the ITU World Triathlon Grand Final will be taking place. The trials, which act as qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, will see 4,000 international athletes pitched against each other in Ouchy. The open competition takes place on a Friday and involves a 400 m swim, a 15 km bike ride and a 4 km run, carried out either solo or as part of a relay team.

Registration open until 28 August at: www.trilausanne.ch

EPFL GOES BACK IN TIME Time Machine, the European cultural heritage digitisation project developed by the École polytechnique fédérale de Lausanne (EPFL), has been awarded a €1 million grant from Brussels to demonstrate its feasibility. GAZETTE Just like a time machine, this ground-breaking new scientific venture aims to use Big Data to manage the continent’s extensive cultural heritage. By offering free and easy access to the past, its developers are hoping to get a better idea of what the future holds. Venice was the first city to take the leap back in 2012. EPFL digitised its archives as part of the Venice Time Machine project, with a view to creating an exact replica of the city through the ages.

FINALLY – A BEACH IN OUCHY Brand-new for this summer, get yourself down to the newly-developed beach facilities between the Jetée de la Compagnie and Le Minimum in Ouchy. Now it’s all safe, boats are forbidden from passing through, and a platform means you no longer have to climb over the rocks to get to the water. Another official beach is set to open next summer at the Place du Vieux-Port.

29 LAUSANNE IN MOTION

The smartphone and chopsticks strategist YAN LUONG, FOUNDER OF THE POP-UP RESTAURANT “LA CANTINE”.

Between being a digital for a day – it’s organised by an in the city centre. I was also

evangelist, communicator and association called Lausanne à in charge of PR and finding INSIDER educator, Yan Luong’s at his Table. In 2015, one of my friends partners, and helped to set happiest wearing a number suggested I take part, knowing up a management solution

of hats. He also enjoys adding I live in a building with a large too. After weighing everything INSIDER “chef” to the mix when the patio which is perfect for up we settled on a series of opportunity arises. hosting lots of people. The long supper clubs, which would and short of it is that on the day take place one Sunday every Interview by Erik Freudenreich it rained, and we had to empty month. We based the design out my living room as quickly as around a range of street-food- A pioneer in digital we could to accommodate our style dishes, and we always communication, Yan Luong guests. That was when I caught tried to invite a restaurateur has worked for Couleur 3 radio the bug. After that, we started along who was a fan of the station, as well as various other getting in touch with actual DJ that would be playing. institutions and multinationals restaurant owners, asking them It was a great experience, around the Vaud region. He is if we could come and cook in and it taught me a lot about also involved in the restaurant their kitchens on the day the managing large venues. scene where, amongst other restaurant was closed every things, he organises supper week. I kept cooking on my What one Vietnamese dish clubs. He has just got back from own after that, and one year should everyone try? a trip to Vietnam, and his head is ago I organised Zinéma’s When you go through the menu bursting with new recipe ideas. brunch season. at Vietnamese restaurants in Lausanne, Bánh xèo is Three years ago, you launched And then you went to Vietnam to always there. It’s a sort of pop-up restaurant “La Cantine”. help open a restaurant? fried pancake made from rice Can you tell us how that came Yes, a childhood friend who flour and coconut milk and about? had just opened a new place filled with meat and prawns. Yan Luong: The story about that in Saigon contacted me last It’s really crispy and tastes goes back to an event called year. My job was to create a incredible. People who haven’t Restaurant Day, where people gourmet menu for a pretty travelled wouldn’t necessarily from around the city can edgy nightclub, located up consider trying it, but I can’t pretend to be restaurant owners on the 10th floor of a building recommend it enough.

30 mì, concerts, especially at La Dolce Vita, andfound I often myself having wait to for get to firstthe morning train back home. that, After I was lucky enough play to quite a few school gigs with different groups. Then I came here to study before settling downfor good. Lausanne is my home Itnow. has a richcultural scene, whether after you’re modern, alternative or classic. As if that wasn’t enough, my favourite region in the world, Lavaux, is just a 15-minute bike ride away. Now that’s luxury!

“They serve Vietnamese specialities like Bánh soups and rice-based dishes, all traditionally ingredients.” fresh using prepared “This is a great café where you come across both older locals and uni students from ECAL. They regularly host art exhibitions. There’s a small soups, and sandwiches platters, sharing of menu ingredients.” local with made all new kitchen“A team set up in this restaurant a year ago. They treat their produce with huge respect and creativity, site.” on prepared is everything and “This bistro is a little bit more upmarket, and by run It’s experience. dining fine a offers Anne-Sophie Pic’s former chef.” 31 and Lausanne? and Saigon is a city which moves at 100miles an hour, and the idea of noise pollution there is all relative. There’s a permanent buzz of scooters and horns. There are also a lot of loudspeakers there which spew music out onto the quietpavements. from Coming littleSwitzerland, that’s quite a change. big And what are your first stand-out Lausanne? of memories They’re all do with to music and the rock scene here. As a teenager I went a few to What is the most noticeable Vietnam between difference +41 21 320 00 03 +41 21 312 02 32 +41 21 624 16 37 +41 21 311 06 00 L’ATELIER Avenue de France 39, Lausanne ARTISANS DES CAFÉ Rue Centrale 16, Lausanne RESTAURANT ÉLIGO Rue du Flon 8, Lausanne MY SANDWICHES MY 9, Saint-Martin Rue Lausanne

HIS TOP PLACES TO GO HIS PLACES TO TOP Did this experience inspire inspire experience this Did you to take on new culinary Lausanne? in adventures It goes without saying. I am planning for the season as we speak, and can already announce one date for Lausanne: June. 15 The details are all on the Facebook www.facebook.com/ at page, Vietnam In lacantinepopup. I got the opportunity go to theto countryside and meet some fisherman. I left with many new ideas. I would love elevateto traditional recipes sustainably- local, with produced using ingredients– seasonal vegetables in a Bánh mì sandwich, for example. INSIDER

INSIDER

INTERVIEW MYRIAM KRIDI MYRIAM KRIDI MYRIAM

Taking art to the streets The Festival de la Cité is a cutting-edge festival for the people, filling the old town for six early-summer days. It is becoming Lausanne’s must-visit cultural event, as well as a place for locals to hang out with friends. Interview with its director, Myriam Kridi.

Interview by Viviane Menétrey

Founded in 1972, the Festival de la Cité is the top cultural event of the summer season. Both Lausanne locals and tourists alike love meeting friends there to grab a drink or a bite to eat, and watch a show in the old town’s streets and squares. From architecture to literature, dance, circus, theatre and music, the festival crosses all sorts of boundaries to explore every type of art imaginable, catering for both art buffs well-versed in new forms of artistic expression and the general public. MYRIAM KRIDI MYRIAM KRIDI MYRIAM

Pont Bessières was closed to traffic and lined with rows of seats for César Vayssié’s show in 2017.

Is there anything about this latest event which And in terms of what’s on, what can people you are particularly proud of? expect to see? Myriam Kridi: Yes – how local residents have Some new faces as well as some familiar got involved with some of the shows. This acts. One of the new shows for this year is a started in 2017 with Bouchra Ouizguen’s show circus tent at the Friche du Vallon, where the Corbeaux, which around 40 women took part Trottola company will be performing Campana. in. It was yet another step towards making Here, instead of the experience being about art more accessible, offering people the surrounding the audience with impressive opportunity to work directly with the artist and numbers, it focuses on drawing them into the help create the piece. characters’ world. →

33 INTERVIEW

The aerialist Chloé Moglia will be coming back And, 48 events later, does it still have – she brought us Horizon in 2017, and this year the same focus? she’ll be performing Spire, a new show where Offering culture that is accessible to five female performers hang in mid-air and a everyone is still our main mission, even if musician, Marielle Chatain, invites the audience today our work focuses more on looking to follow along on an extraordinary ascent. for new forms of expression. This is Finally, Hummus Records – a record label because making culture more accessible that represents Swiss artists – and Three : Four doesn’t mean offering shows which the Records have been given a double slot for public can get into easily – it means artists of their choice. giving them the opportunity to discover art and forms of expression which are How did the Festival de la Cité come about? usually brought to life in places where It was born back in the late 1960s, when a the vast majority of people do not go. To number of residents were asking for culture to make it a success I focus especially on be made more accessible, especially in terms of points of reference – or, making sure that the cost. The idea was to break down financial no matter how much people know about and social barriers and take art into the streets. contemporary theatre, music or dance, They started with a small-scale event on the the shows are accessible. There’s got to be esplanade in front of the Cathedral and, little by something offered for everyone. If there’s little, it has grown to become the institution that not, we’re not being true to the idea of it is today. putting a festival on for the people.

34 Opened last year, the Châtelaine stage offers shows (such as Monstres by the Baninga company, left) with spectacular sets.

Does the way the public seems to enjoy a programme that is often quite progressive surprise you? No, because offering a free festival in a public space, and open stands that people don’t have to book in advance, means that we can make it accessible. People meet up for a drink, come and see a show and leave if they’re not taken by it, but they stay in the area and always have the option of coming back. This clearly shows that cultural democratisation is primarily based on removing barriers, be that money or etiquette. The location obviously plays a huge role in the success: the old town is a part of the city that Lausanne locals know well, and which suddenly gets transformed into an open-air theatre.

What effect do these street performances have on the artists? Sometimes it’s difficult for them because they’re not used to performing with so much noise around them and having people coming and going during their act, especially in Europe. But they’re all really happy when the public turn up and are keen as they have often never performed in front of such a huge crowd, and such a diverse audience. They feel like they have a real role to play in delivering a message which will end up reaching a huge number of people.

Does the fact that they are performing in a place with so much history have anything to do with it? Whether consciously or unconsciously, you often get a dialogue developing with this or that building, and we have been known to choose a specific building for a specific show. The old town also once represented a lot of political, religious and academic power. You can’t just put on a show anywhere. We have had shows from some artists that have been strong political statements – like Monstres last year, for example, which was performed by the Congolese dance company Baninga. That was about an appeal to build a place for dance in a country with no real political culture or resistance against the monsters forced upon it by its dictatorship.

You lived in Geneva for a long time before coming to Lausanne. What was your first impression of the city when you arrived here? Lausanne seemed much more Swiss than Geneva – slicker and more civilised, and also less divided, especially in terms of culture, which is great. The region is really sunny, and the view over the lake and the mountains from Ouchy is unbelievable! The fact it’s all on a slope can make getting from A to B tricky, and it takes a bit of time to get to know the geography of the city. →

35 INTERVIEW

What type of person would you it sprawls down all the streets A terrace that you enjoy? say is typical of Lausanne? in the city centre. You come The one at Bar Tabac on the I think the cool 30-somethings across all sorts of people there, Rue Beau-Séjour for the late- and older people who are just you chat, you wander; it’s full afternoon sun, and La Grenette enjoying life. They know how of life. in the Place de la Riponne, to appreciate good food and which is always really vibrant. conversation, and there’s just What is your favourite view? something friendly and open The one I see when I walk A walk you like? about them that is typical down from the Place de From Parc de Milan to the Vidy- of Vaud. la Cathédrale, which is Lausanne Theatre. I love walking where my office is, towards down the Chemin des Plaines. Which area has your favourite the Café de l’Évêché. All There are so many incredible vibe? of a sudden you see the houses along there – I’d love to I love the market because it’s mountains surge up in the live in one of them one day... ■ not contained in a single place: distance behind the city. MYRIAM KRIDI

IN FIGURES Founded in 1972 Festival lasts 6 days Arts on show Dance, music, theatre, circus, architecture, literature, performance and more Attendance Over 100,000 visitors 48th Festival de la Cité, On offer Over 80 shows 9 → 14 July 2019 Price 100% free www.festivalcite.ch

36 Lausanne DOCKS.CH Live music

MYRIAM KRIDI GREEN SPACES GREEN SPACES GREEN

38 THE GARDEN

GREEN SPACES The capital of the Vaud region decided very early on to let nature flourish in public CITYspaces around the city. Today it’s one of

GREEN SPACES GREEN the greenest cities in Europe, and puts on a contemporary garden show like you’ve never seen before.

A dossier written by Viviane Menétrey and Sylvain Menétrey

Lausanne feels like one big garden. Not just because the city hosts the Lausanne Jardins landscape art festival every five years, with the sixth event taking place between June and October this year, but because for almost three decades the region’s capital has been something of a trailblazer in managing green spaces.

With its poppy-speckled meadows, ancient parkland and century-old trees, flowerbeds teeming with perennials that jostle for space with the traditional annuals, native hedgerows and urban gardens, the city’s countrified slopes are not only avant- garde, but eco-friendly too. Thanks to the varying degrees of maintenance introduced in 1992 (which are based around the needs of each individual green space), the city has managed to successfully preserve its biodiversity. For all that, these green lungs are no nature reserve – from forward-thinking games areas to summer garden parties, visitors can expect to see them being put to a myriad of uses, both day and night. →

39 THE GARDEN CITY GREEN SPACES GREEN

View over the Cathedral from a meadow in Hermitage Park.

Nature bounces back As far back as the 1990s, Lausanne was making itself”. Some south-facing meadows with good a name for itself by opting to leave nature to its drainage are left to grow as they please, and own devices in even the most built-up of places. poppies and other native species are gradually This approach to managing the environment taking root as a result. Some of them are up to has transformed the urban landscape. a count of 60 plants!

ROMANTIC MEADOWLAND PROGRESS WITH PERENNIALS “Can you really walk through the tall grass?” Traditional, precisely-planted flowerbeds are This question, asked by an Asian tourist who practically a thing of the past in Lausanne, wasn’t sure about stepping onto the open- with these ordered displays having been access meadowland in Hermitage Park, replaced by perennial creations. Balestra made Etienne Balestra smile. The head of points to the rose garden outside the Beau- Lausanne’s parkland and estate management Rivage Palace in Ouchy as an example: department (SPADOM) is proud of this little “These plants need less water and upkeep piece of city-centre countryside, which he than annuals do, and visually the effect is says is “almost better than the countryside practically the same”.

40 NATIVE HEDGEROWS GUERILLA GARDENING In Switzerland, cedars are to garden The “Sauvageons en ville!” initiative was a hedgerows what geraniums are to recent attempt to get Lausanne’s residents balconies. In Lausanne, gardeners’ efforts to engage in a little civil “disobedience” to diversify have consisted of systematically and let nature loose in the city. Set up replacing laurel and cedar hedges with by the “l’Éprouvette” public lab at the native species. Viburnum, hawthorn and University of Lausanne (UNIL), it calls for honeysuckle now add a touch of local people to grow aromatic herbs under the flavour to the borders in parks and schools. trees, encourage plants and flowers hiding These native hedge varieties are great for under paving slabs out into the open, and – birds and insects, providing them with both basically – open their eyes to the untamed food and shelter. nature to be found hiding in cities.

PAVEMENT GARDENS Lausanne is also encouraging city residents to grow their own vegetable gardens: over the last 20 years, around 15 community vegetable gardens have popped up in some of the most tightly-packed areas. The stony Place de la Riponne, for example, is home to fruit, vegetables and herbs, all sprouting up in enormous containers

GREEN SPACES GREEN outside the La Grenette bar. The Grenette community café in its rustic green setting.

41 THE GARDEN CITY

Gardening tips 2.0 Whether it’s online or in more traditional media, Tom le Jardinier shares all sorts of tips and tricks for looking after your garden. Originally from the Jura, Tom is a big fan of the biodiversity to be found in his adopted home town of Lausanne.

Interview by Sylvain Menétrey GREEN SPACES GREEN

Tom’s just got an email come through You can tell a lot about a gardener from from Algeria – there’s a follower there their garden – what’s yours like? who’s worried about their seedlings. Tom: It’s in Mont-sur-Lausanne, at an The young gardener from Lausanne, altitude of 800 m. I took it over from a 26, is an internet phenomenon and pensioner about a year and a half ago, so messages like this arrive in their droves. it’s still a work in progress. I had to restore People from all over the world look to the soil before I did anything else – it had him for guidance, all the way to the been turned over every year with either Azerbaijani who wanted help with a spade or a rototiller, which meant that growing spinach. There’s no getting the different layers had all been mixed around it: Tom is a media wizard. He together and the quality wasn’t great. has Instagram and YouTube accounts, I’ve used pine boards to mark off some writes for the Terre & Nature farming little areas for permaculture. Generally magazine and even appears on a local speaking, gardens mainly interest me in a Jura radio station, teaching people very “Louis XIV” sense – in other words, as how to sow, plant, water and even a space for growing vegetables to eat and mulch their gardens. On top of all that flowers to decorate your château. he has his carefully-constructed image, with his iconic straw hat and vintage How would you define a modern-day braces. It’s a persona which Tom garden? created after a struggle with cancer A modern garden has to be part of an that forced him to put his physically- ecosystem, and support and provide demanding horticulture studies on hold for everything else around it. Studies and take up an apprenticeship as a have shown that in the nineties, people’s graphic designer. gardens were heavily polluted by fertilisers

42 and treatments. People are changing the way What are your thoughts on the urban they do things now, and it’s so much better. Also, gardening trend? historically, workers who lived in the cities used to I often help out in gardens around the city, like the hide their gardens because growing vegetables one on Rue de la Borde for example. These are for food was looked down on – nowadays people spaces that the city has provided for people living love showing off what they’ve grown. in high-density neighbourhoods so they can have a little space to grow things in. You have to live less You’re all over social media, aren’t you? than a five-minute walk away to be eligible for a You’ve got me – it’s my guilty pleasure. plot. It’s all quite free and easy there. People swap different types of tomatoes. I also really like the What do you think is the secret of your success? seedling exchange in Vallon. You all bring your I’m not a journalist. I talk to people like friends seedlings along, and then you swap them. in my tutorials. That breaks down barriers. I get around 400 messages a day and dozens of What are your favourite green spaces collaboration offers – it’s scary! in Lausanne? Along the Allée Ernest-Ansermet towards What are some of the most frequently Montbenon, the flowerbeds outside the Swedish asked questions? consulate are beautiful in a kind of showy way, Lots of people want to know how to look after and there’s plenty of greenery. There’s also a orchids and basil. flower garden in Ouchy near the Beau-Rivage Palace which I really like, with lots of pastel Do you have an answer for everything? flowers and climbing roses. Generally speaking, Being humble enough to admit it when you don’t Lausanne has done an incredible job in choosing know something is important – I don’t know much a real range of varieties. There are still a few red about nurseries, for example. I point people who geraniums here and there, but there are more get in touch towards specialists. varieties of geranium about now than ever, too. I’ve actually even taken a few cuttings.

GREEN SPACES GREEN www.tomlejardinier.com

TOM’S TOP SPOTS FESTIVAL DE LA TERRE “Where you’ll find all sorts of crafts, Parc de Montbenon yoga workshops, meditation and a Allée Ernest-Ansermet 3, yurt.” Lausanne EVENT

LA JETÉE DE LA COMPAGNIE His favorite terrace. Ouchy-Bellerive, Lausanne

TERRACE

AU COUSCOUS “For their classic merguez, and Rue Enning 2, because it’s open on Sunday Lausanne evenings.”

RESTAURANT

43 THE GARDEN CITY

Park life

Lausanne is home to 16 HOW IT ALL BEGAN THE MOST POPULAR big public parks. Each Most of the city’s parks – like During the summer, Parc has its own identity, and Montbenon or Mon-Repos – Bourget – with its beaches offers a range of facilities belonged to wealthy families’ and vast expanses of grass for children, parents, private estates. The city on the edge of the lake – is night owls, BBQers and bought up or inherited these definitely the liveliest, with top-quality green spaces over festivities continuing until late dogs alike. th the course of the 20 century. in the evening. But the Parc de Montbenon in the city centre is a hit year-round – day, night, winter or summer. GREEN SPACES

Mysteries and curiosities

The parks in Lausanne are full of surprises. Here are SPACES GREEN a few of the weird and wonderful constructions, pavilions and trees waiting to be explored.

VALLÉE DE LA JEUNESSE An oddity in itself, the Vallée de la Jeunesse was left over from Expo 64. Its most distinctive features are its gentle slope and mogul-like circuits, which have made it a top spot for skaters. Children can explore the Invention Area under the concrete cupola, where science awareness exhibitions are organised.

THE HERMITAGE BEECH TREE Planted when the park was being fitted out (1855–1857), the weeping beech in the Parc de l’Hermitage, which is home to the exhibition site of the same name, has evolved into practically a whole forest over the centuries. Branches that have fallen off go on to take root, creating an endless cycle of regrowth.

Parc de l’Hermitage, Avenue Louis-Vulliemin, Lausanne

44 JOGGING CHILDREN DOGS The Parc de Milan attracts Lausanne has pulled out all Lausanne is proud of its plenty of runners with the stops with its play areas. dog-friendly policy, which its flat, tarmacked outer The more recent facilities has earnt it fifth place in an edge. For a shadier, more are super creative, and international study of the best rural run, a 10-minute bus based around themes – in European city destinations ride from the city centre is the green area to the north for dogs. Some leash-free all it takes to get into the of the Palais de Beaulieu, areas have recently been vast Sauvabelin Forest. for example, most of the enlarged so pooches too can games are water-based, so have playtime in the park. children can do things like Elsewhere, you’ll need to keep activate jets of water with your dog on a lead. The only pedals. There’s also outdoor places they’re not allowed gym equipment for older in are the playgrounds. children in the same area. GREEN SPACES

THE MON REPOS AVIARIES

GREEN SPACES GREEN The two birdhouses at Mon-Repos are home to over 150 feathered occupants. You’ll find all sorts of exotic birds there, like this African parrot from Benin which greets passers-by, as well as a few farm animals, cared for in partnership with the ProSpecieRara association.

Parc de Mon Repos, Avenue de Mon-Repos, Lausanne

THE TWO STONE TOWERS The Haldimand Tower was not built for its views. This Genoese- style tower, which was erected at the entrance of the Parc du Denantou in the 19th century, is purely decorative. You’ll find a similar neo-Gothic-style ruin in the Parc de Mon-Repos.

Parc du Denantou and Parc de Mon-Repos THE WOODEN SAUVABELIN TOWER It’s a climb of 302 stairs to reach the THE BLING DENANTOU PAVILION top of this 35-metre-high wooden The late King Bhumibol of Thailand had happy memories of his tower, which was built in Sauvabelin youth spent in Lausanne. As a sign of thanks, he gifted the city Forest in 2003. But if you make the a Thai pavilion which was installed in the Parc du Denantou in effort, you’ll be rewarded with a 2005. It is decorated with 150,000 pieces of gold leaf, painted stunning 360° view. woodwork, and an ornately-carved roof. Tour de Sauvabelin, Parc du Denantou, Quai d’Ouchy, Lausanne Bois de Sauvabelin, Lausanne

45 THE GARDEN CITY

Sunset and beyond Parks in Lausanne are open 24/7. This freedom means that people can party, or just hang out with nothing more than a guitar or a didgeridoo.

NUIT DES IMAGES The highly popular Nuit des Images event, which takes place on 22 June, is an opportunity to discover the lovely park, with its view out over the lake. The photography museum will present a series of still and moving images in its gardens.

Musée de l’Élysée, Avenue de l’Élysée 18, Lausanne www.elysee.ch

GARDEN PARTIES BBQS IN PARC BOURGET The Lausanne culture department While disposable BBQs on grass aren’t allowed, organises pop-up garden parties Lausanne now has more permanent BBQ facilities, both lakeside and around the parks especially in Parc Bourget in Vidy, where the haze all summer long, complete with music, of sizzling merguez mingles with the fireflies all dancing and kids’ activities. summer long. GREEN SPACES You can find the full list at: Parc Louis-Bourget, www.gardenpartieslausanne.ch Promenade de Vidy 1, Lausanne GREEN SPACES GREEN Park terraces There are plenty of refreshment kiosks scattered around the parks’ squares and standing in the shade of their huge trees.

LA GRENETTE Location : Place de la Riponne Offers : bar and restaurant, play area Style : urban, family-friendly

Place de la Riponne 10, Lausanne www.facebook.com/lagrenette

L’ESQUISSE LA FOLIE VOLTAIRE Location : Parc de l’Hermitage Location : Parc de Mon-Repos Offers : seasonal menu, coffee, brunch, Offers : coffee, ice creams, seasonal menu, play area play area Style : picturesque English cottage, family-friendly Style : young, family-friendly

Route du Signal 2, Lausanne Parc de Mon-Repos (pool side), Lausanne www.lesquisse.ch www.folievoltaire.ch

46 The beautiful buds of Lausanne Jardins An open-air laboratory and the perfect excuse for a wander, the new landscape displays for the sixth Lausanne Jardins exhibition are set to be revealed on 15 June. Its curator, Monique Keller, tells us more about the “open ground” theme selected for this year’s festival.

Interview by Viviane Menétrey

Every five years, the Lausanne Jardins landscape display invites the public to explore a route through the city scattered with landscape displays. The festival is the only one of its kind, and has been a popular

GREEN SPACES attraction for many tourists in previous years. This year, Lausanne Jardins will run from June to October and follow the No. 9 bus route east to west. Architect and journalist Monique Keller is curating the event, and has chosen to showcase open ground through a series

GREEN SPACES GREEN of around 30 contemporary gardens, 24 of which were selected at an international competition. Parks, squares, underpasses, courtyards, a crossroads and even a parking lot have been invaded by the chosen teams of landscape artists, who will be portraying these places in a new light. The aim of the project is to restore nature which has become invisible and the earth that has been suppressed, and to remind us that, without these things, city life would not be possible.

Can you tell us a bit more about the “open ground” theme that has been chosen for this year’s event? Monique Keller: First and foremost, it’s a key issue in times like these where climate change is such a problem. By choosing it, we wanted to show that even if open ground – those few urban spaces which have never been concreted over – is often invisible in towns and cities, it provides a valuable service to their inhabitants. Great trees need it to be able to grow, and provide shade and coolness during heatwaves. It helps to control flooding by absorbing water when it rains, and ensures biodiversity thanks to the organisms and insects that live in it, which also serve as food for birds and mammals. Without open ground, life would quite simply not be possible. All this is without mentioning that the earth also holds our memories; it tells our story. →

47 THE GARDEN CITY

With its fountain in the midst of traffic at Place Saint-François, the Water and you project promises to liven up motorists’ journeys.

Did you want to make people more aware of this? Were you particularly excited by any of the 30 or Yes, because green spaces play a key role in so projects presented? reducing the urban heat island effect, which a That’s a tough one. I really like the Water and you

lot of people are talking about right now. But, installation submitted by the Zurich architecture GREEN SPACES paradoxically, things are moving incredibly slowly firm USUS, with its jet of water spouting up in the in terms of urban planning. We tend to forget middle of the traffic outside of St-François. I like that the earth is a vital, non-renewable resource the idea of the water piercing through the tarmac, and that as time passes we will need it more and surging up where no one expects it to disrupt both

more – that goes for cities, too. All too often we the traffic and our train of thought. Visiting the SPACES GREEN view the last remaining open spaces as reserves Mercier family, which was proposed by the Dutch of building land, for the sake of densification. duo Joost Emmerik and Tomas Degenaar is also Making cities denser is important, of course, a great project. Their piece on the Promenade but it shouldn’t be to the detriment of the last Jean-Jacques Mercier is a printed wrap depicting remaining areas of “living” ground. We’d be a house, which would have hidden the view from better off focusing on land that has already been sight if it had actually been built in the park as built on, and trying to avoid concreting over was the norm for large city-centre properties in anywhere new. the 19th century. Its temporary presence reminds people that the landscape is a precious thing. Why have you chosen to base this sixth event I also really like the projects about trees, like along the No. 9 bus route? 9 m3. That one reminds us that subterranean We were looking for an easy-to-access route overcrowding doesn’t leave enough space for big with a clear underlying theme, and we wanted trees to grow properly. to cross Lausanne from east to west and not north to south as people are normally inclined What links the pieces together? to do given the natural slope of the city. The Aside from the earth theme, we wanted to route runs along a ridge between the Parc highlight to visitors that it’s the place which shows de Valency out towards Prilly and the Parc off the project, and not the other way around. Guillemin in Pully, which overlooks the lake and To do that, we decided to focus on a number of the Alps a bit like a balcony and offers some sites that are thought of as “problematic” to show spectacular views. It also follows the city’s that, if they are fitted out properly, they could artificial centre line, which is a highway built in become spaces that are really enjoyable to be the mid-19th century between these two points in. The Terreau incognito garden in the Placette that features the iconic Grand Pont bridge. des Terreaux is a good example of this: it looks The building of this bridge hugely altered the at how the street fixtures and various concrete appearance of the city. installations could be covered back up with plants

48 to soften the appearance of the stony-faced How you do visit the exhibition? Is there a thoroughfare. Broadly speaking, all the projects recommended route? encourage people to think about how they could We suggest a walking route, which takes around reappropriate this sort of public space. The idea is three to four hours in total. The west-east route is to remind people that towns and cities can be just shown in our guide and leaflet. But you can also as pleasant as a corner of the countryside, and start from the Grand Pont in the city centre, or that the various areas within them can be used for at the eastern end. At the Parc de Valency end, all sorts of different things. visitors will find a family-orientated neighbourhood which is becoming more and more gentrified, You’ve made this year’s event interactive so the a little bit boho, with a few trendy boutiques. gardens “come alive” for visitors. How have you There’s still plenty of nature around there, and gone about doing that? as you continue along the Avenue d’Échallens There will be events happening all over the place you start to see less and less of it. The city centre throughout the summer. These include lectures and is characterised by its expansion underground, sessions with artists around the Cambium project creating a contained area where asphalt has trees in the Parc de Valency, scientific mediation taken over, and only a few green spaces remain. workshops, earth-themed meet-ups, and even a As you go down the Avenue de Rumine, and then big end-of-summer party around the Pranvera the Avenue du Léman towards the Parc Guillemin garden on the Promenade Jean-Jacques Mercier. in Pully, the houses start to look more opulent, We want these gardens to also be spaces which and the views across the lake and the Alps are the public can make their own and experience in incredible. Little by little, you start to see nature different ways. coming back into its own.

Will any of the creations remain in place after At the top of Avenue du Léman,

GREEN SPACES Visiting the Mercier family, with the event? its master house facade printed A piece of Lausanne Jardins always gets left on tarpaulin, addresses the notion of perspective. behind. This one-of-a-kind festival works a bit like an open-air laboratory, offering space for people to experiment in. The event has already changed

GREEN SPACES GREEN the city’s appearance considerably. The plant- covered walls of the municipal building on Rue de Genève, for example, are the legacy of a previous event, as is the La Grenette urban garden. We’ll be leaving some artwork behind this year, too – the city’s authorities have actually specifically asked us to do so.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

FROM 15 JUNE TO 12 OCTOBER 2019 THIRTY projects spread across 25 sites along the No. 9 bus route, between the Parc de Valency to the west and Parc Guillemin to the east.

Guide and route map for sale in bookshops and the Tourist Information Centre.

Geotagged map and full description on the website at www.lausannejardins.ch

49 SCENIC STROLL

Lausanne’s modern architectural gems DISCOVERY DISCOVERY With a new Museum of Fine Arts, a new Cantonal parliament building and a new Opera House, Lausanne has been a hotbed of architectural innovation in recent years. Here we take a two-hour stroll around the city to admire some of the most attractive new builds.

By Blandine Guignier

Héloïse Gailing is an architect specialising in The tour begins in front of a harmonious ensemble. architectural outreach. She took us on a guided tour On the Avenue de la Gare 39, at the foot of the of Lausanne’s slopes to introduce us to a few of the Edipresse building, two administrative buildings city’s most successful examples of contemporary sprang up between 2011 and 2016. The vertical architecture – for although the city is already tightly elements used for their façades mean there is a packed, that’s never stopped it from going for a definite resemblance to their older sibling next brand-new look. Several of the recent creations door. The first, which houses a bank, is “a little bit have been inspired by old industrial buildings which of luxury” according to Gailing. “It was designed still remain today. They were selected from entries by the Neuchâtel firm GD Architectes and it to architecture competitions, which have been hugs the slope it was built on, making it look like widely used in Lausanne since the late 1990s, and its huge glass panels and metallic structure are make delicate use of rough materials such as brick actually just sitting on the ground,” she explains. and corrugated iron. Gailing is particularly keen to The second building, courtesy of Lausanne-based support renovations which respect the ethos of the office RDR Architectes, sits across the street and area around them, and in doing so create a kind of is home to the head office of the International continuity within the city. Gymnastics Federation .

50 As we’re always up for a climb in Lausanne, we take the Rue Charles-Monnard up to the Opera House . This gleaming, 30-metre-high cube, which offers glimmering reflections of the sky, the mountains, or the surrounding buildings depending on where you stand, “is now part of Lausanne’s skyline”, says Gailing. Fun fact: its creator, the Geneva-born Inès Lamunière, is the daughter of Jean-Marc Lamunière, who designed the Edipresse building we saw earlier. Thanks to this extension, which was carried out in 2012, the Opera House – which was built in 1871 – is PARC ET TOUR now in a position to accommodateDE SAUVABELIN a line-up of large-scale productions.

The keenest of beans will take advantage of the

passageway from here through to the Avenue SALLAZ Georgette to make a little detour to the Lausanne Forum d’Architectures on the Avenue Villamont. There are regular exhibitions held here, and the Vaud office of the Swiss Society of Engineers and Architects (or SIA, Avenue de Rumine 6) is a great place to learn even more.

PAST THE CATHEDRAL AND ON TO THE OLD TOWN

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wall draws the eyes of onlookers. “These leaves “Alongside these stony elements, a great sculpted reflect a pattern in one of the museum’s rooms stairway adorns the space. It leads to the hall that has been modernised,” our guide tells us. “It’s where representatives to the Grand Council of similar to a traditional technique called sgraffito, Vaud sit.” which was used to decorate walls with designs during the Renaissance.” The Lausanne-based LITTLE MANHATTAN firm Brauen Wälchli Architectes, which oversaw Next, we hurtle down the hill along the Avenue de the project, didn’t stop at the building’s external l’Université before crossing through the Place de walls: it redesigned all the exhibition rooms, too. la Riponne and the Rue Haldimand to the Bel-Air “The collection pieces are showcased with black Tower , Lausanne’s version of a skyscraper. walls and pools of light, whilst glimpses of the “It never fails to stand out to international outside world offer incredible views over the city architects passing through Lausanne,” Gailing and Lake Geneva.” tells us effusively. It’s a little bit of Manhattan in Switzerland!” The offices and apartments it houses were renovated in 2017, a project which 4 was overseen by CCHE. Its façade was also restored to its former glory. We pass the 78-metre- high beauty, which was designed in 1931, to continue along the Rue des Terreaux and turn left onto the Pont Chauderon.

We take the lift down at the other end of the bridge and take the footpath to the Théâtre de l’Arsenic . Gailing informs us that “the building was wrapped in this lacy black metallic net in 2013. It was the result of close collaboration between the City of DISCOVERY Lausanne, the architects at Renens-based Pont12, and the theatre team.” It has an industrial style which means it blends seamlessly into its surroundings; a neighbourhood of warehouses undergoing conversion. What’s more, its cafeteria is a sight to behold for neighbours and onlookers alike.

After a well-deserved rest in the charming French- style garden of the MHL café, we head off again towards the parliament of the Canton of Vaud , a hub of legislative power which burned down in 2002. Its massive roof, which towers 15 metres above us, makes quite an impact. The initial project would have had it even higher, irregularly shaped and made of tin-plated stainless steel so that it could house a high-tech energy installation! It has ended up looking like a tiled pyramid with the top cut off. Given that the roof is only supported by the base, with not a beam in sight, this is actually a considerable technical feat which has been made possible by a technique developed at EPFL. The new building, which was completed in The last stage of our journey before we reach the 2017, was designed by Spanish architectural firm station is the new Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts Bonell & Gil, in partnership with Lausanne-based (mcb-a) , which was designed by Fabrizio Barozzi Atelier Cube. Out of the windows on the Rue Cité- and Alberto Veiga and is set to open in October. It Devant 13, you can see a great hall where concrete is a precursor to the drastic transformations which walls intermingle with the old stone of the original are planned for the area around the station, which building. This dates back to 1803, which was when a number of architects will be working on over the the canton of Vaud joined the Swiss Confederation. next few years. ■

52 DISCOVERY

« Ensemble, tout devient possible.»

En tant qu’assurance mutuelle suisse, nous ne vous laissons jamais seul. www.vaudoise.ch

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H G 45 O IS O

I Z 56 AV EN UE D E ← L ’E LY SÉ Y E H 44 C 51 AV A U EN V O U ’ E 6 EN D D E U E D D E E EN R U HO A D N N AN E T V O IE U 32 A 13

QUAI D’OUCHY 22 35 46

0 100 m 500 m CGN 11 EMBARCADÈRE LAUSANNEOUCHY

GENEVA LAKE 5454 R RUE DE RENENS U E THE ADDRESSES IN THIS EDITION

D A E V Musée de l’Élysée 36 Parc de l’Hermitage 51 EN L BARS, CAFES & ARTISAN ICE CREAM U A Avenue de l’Élysée 18 E Avenue Louis-Vulliemin D AVENUE DE MORGES ES B RESTAURANTS O GeA 1018 Lausanne 1006 Lausanne BE 19 RG R IÈ D 1 Au Couscous Rue Enning 8 R E Parc de Mon-Repos 52 Musée historique ES Rue Enning 2 1003 Lausanne 37 Avenue de Mon-Repos Lausanne 1003 Lausanne U A Intrigo Place de la Cathédrale 4 E V 20 1005 Lausanne I E A L N Rue Pichard 11 1005 Lausanne V U U 2 Brasserie de Montbenon E E 38 Parc Louis-Bourget N A 1003 Lausanne U E V Allée Ernest-Ansermet 3, E B I Promenade de Vidy 1 N D E E 1003 Lausanne E T 21 Loom galeteria 1900 1007 Lausanne D R F EL MONUMENTS & R N U A E N Boulevard de Grancy 45 U U E 3 Café de l’Évêché Parc de Valency N 39 T ARCHITECTURE C N C 1006 Lausanne E E U Rue Louis-Curtat 4 É Route de Prilly 18 V D S A E A 1005 Lausanne 22 Veneta 1004 Lausanne 53 Société Suisse des U R R  Ingénieurs et des R Quai d’Ouchy O 4 Café des Artisans 40 Promenade Jean- RUE DE GENÈVE U Place du Vieux-Port Architectes (SIA)

X Jacques Mercier Rue Centrale 16 Avenue de Rumine 6 1006 Lausanne Avenue du Léman 26 1003 Lausanne 1005 Lausanne 1005 Lausanne 5 Eligo Restaurant

E Rue du Flon 8 NIGHTLIFE & 41 Vallée de la Jeunesse N

I 1007 Lausanne THEATRES PONT CHAUDERON L 1003 Lausanne PONT BESSIÈRES CONCERTS O 54 Théâtre de l’Arsenic RUE DU GRAND-PONT Bar Club ABC R 6 Jetée de la Compagnie 23 Rue de Genève 57 VOLI AVENUE JULES GONIN A AVENUE DE TI UE C Bellerive Passerelle du Grand Pont 1004 Lausanne CENTRALE R EVENTS RUE Passerelle du Flon 1007 Lausanne 55 Opéra de Lausanne 1003 Lausanne 42 Festival de la Cité Av. du Thèatre 12 La Folie Voltaire Cité RUE DE BOURG 7 D! Club 1002 Lausanne Parc de Mon-Repos 24 09.07 → 14.07.19 Place Centrale AVENUE LOUIS-RUCHONNET (pool side) 56 Théâtre de Vidy E 1003 Lausanne 43 Festival de la Terre N 1005 Lausanne Avenue E.-H.-Jacques- Ê Esplanade de Montbenon H AVENUE DU THÉ Folklor Club Delacroze 5 C 25 → IT La Grenette 14.06 16.06.19 PET 8 Place de la Riponne 10 1007 Lausanne U D Place de la Riponne 10 1005 Lausanne 44 Nuit des images E U ÂTRE 1005 Lausanne Avenue de l’Elysée 18 R Jagger’s 26 22.06.19 9 L’Assise – Third Place Rue Etraz 1 AVENUE DE LA GARE Avenue de Cour 103 1003 Lausanne 45 Ladies Open Lausanne ’OR Tennis Club du AVENUE U MONTD 1007 Lausanne D REPERTOIRE Le Bourg 27 Stade - Lausanne Rue de Bourg 51 TRANSPORTATION BO 10 L’Atelier (L’A-T-E-L-I-E-R) 13.07 → 21.07.19 UL DE MILAN E 1003 Lausanne E VA Avenue de France 39 Gare Lausanne-CFF U RD Pop in the City N DE 1004 Lausanne 28 Le Romandie Place de la Gare E GRA Through Lausanne V NCY 1003 Lausanne A Place de l’Europe 1A 11 Le Lacustre 29.06.19 Y 1003 Lausanne S H Quai Jean-Pascal Transports-publics IN C 46 Triathlon A U lausannois (tl) B Delamuraz 1 29 Les Arches S ’O AVENUE JUSTEOLIVIER Ouchy E D 1006 Lausanne Route de Bel-Air D A m1 Metro E 29.08 → 01.09.19 V E AVENUE DE LA HARPE U A 1003 Lausanne E U N E N V Le Mirabeau N 12 Garden-Parties A V E U E 30 MAD Club V A Avenue de la Gare 31 V E E N Various parks N U A U DÉLICES E Rue de Genève 23 E D D 1003 Lausanne DE E 19.07 → 18.08.19 C E 1003 Lausanne m2 Metro O UR M O J N U 13 Le Restaurant Lausanne Jardins R TC I

H G Various places O Hôtel Beau-Rivage IS O 15.06 → 12.10.19 Z Chemin du Beau-Rivage 21 SHOPPING I AV 1006 Lausanne 31 Café des Patronnes EN UE Rue du Valentin 43 D E 14 L’Esquisse 1004 Lausanne MUSEUMS DISTRICTS L’ EL Route du Signal 2 Collection de l’Art Brut YS 47 TOWN CENTRE ÉE 1018 Lausanne 32 Pêcherie d’Ouchy Y Avenue Bergières 11 H Chemin des Pêcheurs 9 C 1004 Lausanne AV 15 Loxton A U EN 1007 Lausanne RÔTILLON V O U ’ E EN D Rue du Pont 22 48 Forum d’architectures D E U 33 QWSTION Store E D 1003 Lausanne D E Lausanne E EN R U Rue du Tunnel 7 FLON HO A Avenue Villamont 4 D N N E 1005 Lausanne AN T 16 My Sandwiches Lausanne V O IE U 1005 Lausanne A Rue Saint-Martin 9 CITÉ – MON-REPOS 1003 Lausanne 49 mudac Place de la Cathédrale 6 17 Racines OPEN-AIR 1005 Lausanne TRAIN STATION – OUCHY QUAI D’OUCHY Rue Neuve 11 Bois de Sauvabelin 34 Musée cantonal 1003 Lausanne 1018 Lausanne 50 des Beaux-Arts SAUVABELIN 18 Tibits 35 Parc du Denantou PLATEFORME 10 Place de la Gare 11 Quai d’Ouchy Place de la Gare 16 PULLY 0 100 m 500 m CGN 1003 Lausanne 1007 Lausanne 1003 Lausanne EMBARCADÈRE LAUSANNEOUCHY

55 UNMISSABLE PLACES

The essentials on www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/highlights and on the blog www.my-lausanne.com “Seven spots you absolutely must see”

56 DISTRICTS CITÉ/MON-REPOS

It is around the Cité hill, sculpted by the Flon and Louve rivers, that the medieval town grew.

Its cobble-stoned pedestrian streets as well as its monuments bear witness to this. Then, as soon as you cross the Bessières Bridge, the scenery changes completely. The Caroline district possesses a shopping mall, many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A bit further to the east, the Mon-Repos Park offers a green and tranquil haven, interrupted from time to time by the twittering of birds in its aviary.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

LAUSANNE MUSÉE HISTORIQUE mudac CATHEDRAL LAUSANNE The Cathedral, considered one Within the walls of the This space is dedicated of the most beautiful Gothic Old Bishop’s Palace, this to design and contemporary buildings in Switzerland, was Lausanne historical museum applied arts. You set off on consecrated in 1275. Don’t miss – newly renovated – speaks an intense and surprising the rose window, the painted of the town’s rich past and journey where antique portal, the 13th century choir features a famous model Egyptian and Asian art stand stalls, the ancient and modern that offers an exceptional side by side with current stained glass windows and the view of the 17th century Cité. designers’ latest creations. great organs. The bravest will Temporary exhibitions, The museum organises admire the panoramic view inspired by the research encounters and themed from the belfry (entrance fee) conducted on its collections, guided tours, and regularly after climbing the 224 stairs. explore the thousand years welcomes performing arts Open tours of the Cathedral of this heritage. A novel such as dance, music and and free guided tours during approach to the town’s history: other types of performances. the summer. smart multimedia!

57 UNMISSABLE PLACES

ESCALIERS DU MARCHÉ A direct but abrupt route roofed and winding, with between the Cathedral and a very steep cobbled street the town centre, this wooden running alongside. An integral stairway first mentioned part of Lausanne’s popular during the 13th century exists iconography, it is lined on the in its present form since the west with a picturesque row of

beginning of the 18th century: boutiques and cafés. CITÉ/MON-REPOS

MON-REPOS PARK Open to the public, it’s one Stroll down its various alleys of the most popular parks to catch a glimpse of an for Lausanne inhabitants of orangery as well as a neo- all ages, with its huge lawns, Gothic tower overlooking a aviaries of exotic birds, cave and a waterfall. playgrounds and ephemeral sculptures. TOWN CENTRE

DISTRICT PLACES YOU MUST VISIT TOWN CENTRE

This is where the city’s energy is most animated both by day and night.

From ancient buildings to trendy new districts, tread the cobblestones and broad avenues to make the most of shopping amongst major brands and local designers. It’s also the axis of nightlife with concert halls and an opera, plus bars and PLACE SAINT-FRANÇOIS clubs that will keep you awake until the early hours of the morning. & CHURCH Lausanne’s residents like to meet up in this central square dominated by a mediaeval church that has become a hub for music and dialogue with contemporary art in all its guises.

58 RÔTILLON PLACE PALAIS NEIGHBOURHOOD DE LA PALUD DE RUMINE In the intertwining lanes of A polychrome statue, Erected at the end of th one of Lausanne’s oldest symbolising justice, stands the 19 century on the neighbourhoods that was imposingly on the Renaissance Place de la Riponne, this recently renovated, works fountain in the centre of this Italianate-style building of art, a Titeuf fresco, small, pedestrian square, where houses a host of treasures original shops and bohemian the Town Hall is also located. in its various museums of CITÉ/MON-REPOS cafés now attract the trendy Opposite, tourists and children art and science, such as the crowds. One of the trendy new wait, every hour on the hour largest naturalised great neighbourhoods in Lausanne, from 9 am to 7 pm, for the white shark. the Rôtillon feels like a corner ballet of animated figures to of Italy in the heart of the town. the sound of the carillon. TOWN CENTRE

FLON MONTBENON COLLECTION DISTRICT ESPLANADE DE L’ART BRUT It’s the town’s architectural Making the most of one of the The town created this museum, success: this district of former town’s most beautiful openings unique in the world, in 1976 warehouses that begins at on Lake Geneva and the Alps, in exchange for the legacy the Place de l’Europe was you can lounge on the lawns of 5,000 works of outsider rehabilitated as a living in front of the District Court or art belonging to artist Jean area with a wide array of enjoy a meal on a terrace. If it’s Dubuffet. Located opposite the restaurants, bars, clubs, raining, you might like to visit Beaulieu Palace, this institution boutiques, cinemas and the Swiss Film Archive in the today owns over 70,000 exhibition spaces. A must is Casino de Montbenon. works, 700 of which are to enjoy a drink on one of the displayed permanently, and rooftop terraces. exports its exhibitions all over the world.

59 Photo©Sébastien Agnetti Photo©Sébastien

www.vinsdelausanne.ch DISTRICTS TRAIN STATION/OUCHY

The neighbourhoods located between the Ouchy quays, by the lakeside, and the Lausanne train station are perfect for a revitalising stroll.

They unveil several green oases, elegant Belle Époque dwellings bordering broad avenues and two internationally renowned museums. Since 2008, the rubber-tired m2 metro has replaced the “Ficelle” (the “String”), which was, in 1877, one of the first metropolitan railways in the world.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

CRÊT DE MONTRIOND DENANTOU & PLACE DE MILAN PARK Inagurated at the end of the 19th century, Initially privately held, until opened to the this square’s vast lawns, football fields, public in 1928, this park was laid out during th playgrounds, fountain and shady alley draw the 19 century in the English fashion by a in families in all seasons. Reach the Crêt de banker. Allow your children to caper about Montriond by a winding path to discover a in the wild meadows surrounded by copses, 360° panorama of the Lavaux vineyards, flower bed displays and statues, or to play Lake Geneva and the Alps. A little corner with the water from the pond. Since 2007, of paradise, the Botanical Gardens boast a Thai pavilion with a golden roof adorns a stunning array of almost 4,000 alpine, this green area; it was given to the town medicinal, tropical and carnivorous plants by His Majesty the late King of Thailand in (free entry). gratitude for the years he spent in Lausanne between 1933 and 1951.

61 Tissons des liens • Conseil de direction • Expertises • Evaluations d’entreprises • Conseils et services fiscaux • Gestion fiduciaire et administration de sociétés • Conseils et services juridiques • Révision • Révision de comptes des collectivités publiques • Gestion financière et comptable • Comptabilité et gestion des salaires

Ofisa S.A . Siège social de Lausanne Vos défis, notre métier Chemin des Charmettes 7 • Case postale 7063 CH-1002 Lausanne • Tél. +41 21 341 81 11 Fax +41 21 311 13 51 • Email. fidu@ofisa.ch Succursales à Genève et Sion TRAIN STATION/OUCHY TRAIN

62 ÉLYSÉE MUSEUM & GARDENS OLYMPIC MUSEUM & PARK This 30-year-old museum, one of the first to Unique in the world, the Olympic Museum be entirely dedicated to photography, gained forms Lausanne’s main cultural attraction. its international aura thanks to the quality Each of its three levels is dedicated to a and originality of its exhibitions in Lausanne, particular aspect of modern Olympism, then exported all over the world, as well as largely featuring new interactive * the dozen complete collections and archives, communication media. You may need several amongst which are those of Charlie Chaplin, visits to explore everything. In any case, a Nicolas Bouvier and Ella Maillart. Don’t pause at the Tom Café is welcome, with its miss its new discovery space, “The Studio”, terrace on the uppermost floor that offers a dedicated to young visitors and families. The splendid view of Lake Geneva and the Alps. beautiful mansion, that welcomed Mme de In the park, admire the collection of sculptures Staël in 1807, is surrounded by a French formal and test your speed on a proper running track. garden laid out in terraces with a spectacular Strolling through the landscaped terraces, view of the Alps and Lake Geneva. you’ll reach the monument on the shores of the lake. * The exhibitions are temporary. Refer to the programme. TRAIN STATION/OUCHY TRAIN

CRUISES ON A BELLE ÉPOQUE OR SOLAR BOAT It’s impossible to leave Lausanne without having sailed on Lake Geneva aboard one of the Compagnie Générale de Navigation’s vessels. In addition to crossing the lake to the French shore, its Belle Époque fleet – the largest in the world – takes you on board for a gourmet cruise.

From May to September, you can sail closer to the coastline on board the solar-powered boats “Les Aquarels du Léman”, to observe the fauna and flora in tranquility.

63 au cœur de la cité au cœur de la santé

Située au cœur de Lausanne, la Clinique de Montchoisi fait partie des cliniques privées les plus réputées de la région lémanique. Entièrement rénovée, elle dispose de 27 lits. Près de 130 médecins agréés et 90 collaborateurs y offrent aux patients un suivi médical de tout premier ordre et une prise en charge personnalisée dans un environnement agréable. SPÉCIALITÉS MÉDICALES • Ophtalmologie • Neurologie et neurochirurgie • Chirurgie digestive mini-invasive • Orthopédie et traumatologie • Médecine interne • Chirurgie esthétique • ORL • Gynécologie La clinique dispose également d’un centre dédié à la radiologie diagnostique et interventionnelle, équipé d’installations de dernière génération.

SWISS MEDICAL NETWORK MEMBER Clinique de Montchoisi · Chemin des Allinges 10 · CH-1006 Lausanne · Tel. +41 21 619 39 39 · www.montchoisi.ch

centre d’ophtalmologie swiss visio montchoisi

Afin de garantir à chacun un accès à des traitements ophtalmologiques de qualité, Swiss Visio a ouvert un tout nouveau centre au coeur de Lausanne, équipé d’instruments à la pointe de la technologie et d’infrastructures médicales de dernière génération. Swiss Visio Montchoisi compte un réseau de médecins hautement qualifiés, renommés au niveau national et international.

SPÉCIALITÉS MÉDICALES • Glaucome • Maladies de la rétine • Chirurgie réfractive • Cataracte • Maladies de la cornée

Le centre peut également absorber toutes les urgences en ophtalmologie (baisse de vision, inflammations, douleurs oculaires, etc.).

SWISS MEDICAL NETWORK MEMBER Swiss Visio Montchoisi · Avenue du Servan 38 · CH-1006 Lausanne · Tel. +41 21 619 37 42 · www.swissvisio.net DISTRICTS VIDY/UNIVERSITIES

The western part of Lausanne is dominated by the university campus that includes the University and the Federal Institute of Technology.

A location close to the lakeside loved by the 25,000 students who can take part in a broad array of nautical sports.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT

BELLERIVE SWIMMING POOL & CRAZY GOLF This outdoor swimming pool, open from May to September, is equipped with large pools, up to 10 metre diving boards and fun paddling pools for children. PARC LOUIS-BOURGET & PLAGE DE VIDY Would you rather chill out? Lounge on the large lawns or on Between shoreline forest and meadows, the Louis-Bourget the (supervised) beach with direct Park is a nature reserve that hosts a bird sanctuary, a access to the lake. Restaurants pond bordered with fireflies, a fitness trail and a large and refreshment stalls on the playground. It’s also an ideal destination for hot summer spot. Next to the pool, the evenings: come and use the barbecues and grills set on the Bellerive crazy golf is an invitation lawns before enjoying a game of football or relaxing on to playful relaxation ideal for Vidy beach! You’ll also meet many walkers strolling on the families or friends. pleasant path that runs along the lakeside.

65 UNMISSABLE PLACES

ROMAN MUSEUM & GALLO-ROMAN RUINS The Lausanne-Vidy Roman greenery, a body of water Museum offers a presentation and ruins, don’t miss the walk of the Gallo-Roman Lousonna around the remains of the (Lausanne), as well as various Lousonna vicus (village) dating temporary exhibitions. In a from 15 BC, one of the largest bucolic setting that blends in Switzerland.

ESPACE DES INVENTIONS Are your children budding vocation is to arouse young scientists? The Invention Space people’s interest in science is a place for them! Housed and technique thanks to in a strange building with a interactive and entertaining concave roof dating from exhibitions that are regularly the National Exhibition, its renewed. VIDY/UNIVERSITIES

UNIVERSITY CAMPUS & ROLEX LEARNING CENTER The university campus includes the Lausanne Federal Institute of Technology and Lausanne University, the first buildings of which were erected in the 1970s. Since then, the site has rapidly expanded and integrated buildings, the architecture of which is admired beyond Swiss borders. It’s the case of the Rolex Learning Center’s gentle undulations, created by the Japanese architecture firm SANAA, that serves as a place of learning, meeting and exchanges, and includes a library housing more than 500,000 volumes.

66 DISTRICTS SAUVABELIN/CHALET-À-GOBET

North of the town,% vast expanses of forest, representing 40 of the municipal surface area, offer many opportunities for walks and outdoor sports activities.

At an altitude of 873 m, Le Chalet-à-Gobet is the culminating point of the Lausanne urban area, 500 m above Lake Geneva. Sauvabelin’s bucolic setting, with its lake, park and tower, will delight you.

PLACES YOU MUST VISIT VIDY/UNIVERSITIES

AQUATIS This innovative architectural complex, easily trail that includes 50 tanks displaying about reached by metro, integrates the largest 20 aquatic ecosystems from across the five freshwater aquarium in Europe and the continents. Lausanne Vivarium. Follow the discovery

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SAUVABELIN/CHALET-À-GOBET CHALET-À-GOBET & MAUVERNAY HERMITAGE COUNTRY ESTATE SPORTS CENTRE & FOUNDATION This village includes a hotel school, a ski slope, In the centre of the Hermitage Estate sits an an equestrian centre as well as a golf course. imposing mansion built around 1850 and which Its sports centre offers running and mountain- today houses a famous museum of paintings. bike trails (changing showers available). In the English-style gardens populated with majestic trees, benches invite you to contemplate a unique panorama of the old town, the lake and the mountains. SAUVABELIN/CHALET-À-GOBET

SAUVABELIN PARK & LAKE SAUVABELIN TOWER Created in 1888 in the heart of an oak forest, This tower built of solid, local wood in a spirit the Sauvabelin lake rapidly became a sought- of environmental respect is one of the many after strolling area for Lausanne people. You destinations for a hike above the town since can rent a small boat during the summer or 2003. Enjoy the 360° view from a height of walk along its shores. The surrounding park 35 metres after climbing the 151 steps of its is very popular with children, who discover double spiral staircase. Free access. unusual animals such as woolly pigs, grey cows, booted goats and mirror sheep.

69 AGENDA

TheLAUSANNE calendar of not-to-be-missed SURROUNDINGS events

May → December 19 Lausanne à Table! www.lausanneatable.ch

11.06 → 16.06.19 Béjart Ballet Lausanne (BBL) shows www.bejart.ch

15.06 → 12.10.19 Lausanne Jardins 2019 www.lausannejardins.ch

20.06 → 23.06.19 EEM World Longines Masters www.longinesmasters.com

05.07.19 Athletissima www.athletissima.ch

09.07 → 14.07.19 Festival de la Cité Lausanne, 48th edition www.festivalcite.ch

13.07 → 21.07.19 Ladies Open Lausanne www.ladiesopenlausanne.ch

19.07 → 17.08.19 Les Garden-Parties of Lausanne www.gardenpartieslausanne.ch

23.08 → 24.08.19 3x3 Lausanne Masters www.fiba.com/3x3wor1dtour AGENDA 29.08 → 01.09.19 ITU World Triathlon Grand Final www.trilausanne.ch

06.09 → 08.09.19 Equissima Lausanne, 23rd edition www.equissima.ch

08.09.19 The Color Run, 5th edition www.thecolorrun.ch

12.09 → 16.09.19 BDFIL - Lausanne Comic Strip Festival www.bdfil.ch

21.09.19 Lausanne & Pully Museums Night www.lanuitdesmusees.ch

24.09 → 09.10.19 Knie Circus www.knie.ch

16.10 → 20.10.19 Lausanne Underground Film & Music Festival www.luff.ch

27.10.19 Lausanne Marathon, 27th edition www.lausanne-marathon.com

30.10 → 03.11.19 Jazz0nze+ Festival Lausanne, 32nd edition www.jazzonzeplus.ch

20.11 → 31.12.19 Bô Noël Lausanne – Christmas Markets www.bo-noel.ch

20.11 → 31.12.19 Festival Lausanne Lumières www.festivallausannelumieres.ch

www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/big-events Non-exhaustive list; dates are subject to change

70 02.04.19 19:08

→ 14.07.19 → 31.12.19 20.11 BÔ NOËL – LAUSANNE LUMIÈRES www.bo-noel.ch www.festivallausannelumieres.ch 09.07 FESTIVAL DE LA CITÉ LAUSANNE www.festivalcite.ch

→ 01.09.19 → 12.10.19 29.08 ITU WORLD TRIATHLON 15.06 LAUSANNE JARDINS 2019 www.lausannejardins.ch GRAND FINAL www.trilausanne.ch

→ 21.07.19

13.07 LADIES OPEN LAUSANNE www.ladiesopenlausanne.ch May → December 19 LAUSANNE À TABLE ! www.lausanneatable.ch Ombres Annonce expo OMBRES The Lausanner.indd 1

AGENDA (RE)DISCOVER THE ADDRESSES OF LAUSANNE TOURISME TOURIST INFORMATION Three Tourist Office information and welcome centres are at your service at the CFF train station, the Cathedral and by the lakeside at the m2 metro “Ouchy- Olympique” station. You will find a host of services at your disposal there – public transport passes, maps, recommended routes and excursions from Lausanne, various brochures, lists of hotels, help and emergency services, etc. – as well as culture and leisure news.

PUBLIC INFORMATION LAUSANNE CONVENTION BUREAU

OFFICES Av. de Rhodanie 2 CITY STATS Case postale 975 LAUSANNE TRAIN STATION CH-1001 Lausanne Pl. de la Gare 9 +41 21 613 73 73 CFF train station main hall www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/en/ September to May: [email protected] every day: 9 am → 6 pm June to August: every day: 9 am → 7 pm

METRO STATION “OUCHY-OLYMPIQUE” September to May: every day: 9 am → 6 pm June to August: every day: 9 am → 7 pm

LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL April, May and September: Monday to Saturday: 9.30 am → 1 pm / 2 pm → 6.30 pm ; TOWN OF LAUSANNE – INFO CITÉ Sunday: 1 pm → 5.30 pm Information point for the town June, July and August: of Lausanne, the “info cité” office’s Monday to Saturday: 9.30 am → 6.30 pm; mission is to inform, orient and guide Sunday: 1 pm → 5.30 pm Lausanne people and passing guests. October to March: Place de la Palud 2 Monday to Saturday: 1002 Lausanne 9.30 am → 1 pm/ 2 pm → 5 pm ; Monday to Friday: 8 am → 5 pm Sunday: 2 pm → 5 pm +41 21 315 25 55 www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/tourism- www.lausanne.ch/infocite offices [email protected]

72 GENERAL INFORMATION

LAUSANNE IN SHORT Lausanne benefits from a privileged location in the heart of Europe. It is easily reached by train, car or boat. If you fly in, you can choose between Geneva International Airport (40 minutes away) and Zurich Airport (2 hours 30 minutes away).

LAUSANNE, CAPITAL POPULATION OF THE CANTON OF Town of Lausanne 145,000 inhabitants VAUD AND FOURTH- Urban area 400,000 inhabitants LARGEST TOWN IN Vaud Canton 800,000 inhabitants SWITZERLAND

Lausanne sparkles with energy, by its LANGUAGE capacity to innovate Official language French and the diversity its tourism offers. It hosts the headquarters of CITY STATS GEOGRAPHY several multinational Latitude 46°32’ N companies, renowned Longitude 06°40’ E universities and research centres, dozens of international sports federations ALTITUDE LOCAL TIME ZONE and many cultural 372 m by the lakeside GMT+1 institutions. 495 m in the town centre (summer time +1 852 m north of the town = March to October)

CLIMATE Average annual temperature 14°C Average summer temperature 24°C Due to the city’s wide altitude range (500 m), the climate changes according to the district as a 1°C temperature disparity is recorded for every 100 m. For example, in winter it is quite common for the upper part of the city to be snowbound for many weeks.

73 www.parking-riponne.ch Pour vos achats aucentre-ville. Parking de1’190places.

DIRECTORY PRACTICAL LAUSANNE Here are useful contact details to keep at hand and make your stay easier. You have access to all the necessary information at our three information offices spread across the town.

EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS CURRENCY Swiss franc (CHF) 112 International number for emergency calls 1 euro = 1.15 Swiss Franc (indicative rate)

117 Police (crimes and theft, emergencies only)

118 Fire brigade EXCHANGE OFFICE Lausanne train station 140 Roadside assistance service Monday to Friday (except Thursday): 8 am → 6.30 pm; Thursday: 8 am → 8.30 pm; Saturday: 9 am → 6 pm; 144 Ambulance Sunday: 9 am → 1.20 pm

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS POST OFFICES

+41 21 314 11 11 CHUV IN THE TOWN CENTRE (Centre Hospitalier Universitaire Vaudois) Pl. Saint-François 15 +41 848 888 888 +41 848 133 133 Centre for on-call doctors Monday to Friday: 7.30 am → 6.30 pm; Saturday: 8 am → 11.30 am 1811 Directory enquiry services AT THE TRAIN STATION 162 Swiss weather forecast Pl. de la Gare 1/Av. de la Gare 43 bis +41 848 888 888 → DIRECTORY 163 Road traffic information Monday to Friday: 8 am 8 pm; Saturday: 8am → 4 pm; Sunday: 4 pm → 7 pm www.poste.ch/en

LOST PROPERTY OFFICE LAUSANNE POLICE STATION Pl. de la Riponne 10 +41 21 315 33 85 Monday to Friday: 1 pm → 4 pm www.lausanne.ch/en ULTRA-CONNECTED LAUSANNE The town is constantly developing hotspots providing free internet access. Currently, 10 WiFi hubs are available USEFUL MOBILE APPLICATIONS in the town’s main squares: Flon, Find here the applications that Palud, Riponne, Gare, Saint-François, are useful for your stay in Lausanne. Montbenon, Navigation, Port, Service Calendar, hotels, self-service bike des automobiles (Vehicles Service), rentals, public transport and Blécherette Airport. much more!

MORE INFORMATION AT: MORE INFORMATION AT: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/mobile-apps www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/good-to-know

75 USEFUL INFORMATION

LAUSANNE, AT THE HEART OF THE LAKE GENEVA REGION

Situated in the heart of Europe, MOVE IN LAUSANNE the Olympic Capital is also the You can reach Lausanne across ideal departure point for exploring land, air or even water. This model the charming lake, mountains, town for sustainable development countryside, vineyards and forests possesses a network of public of the surrounding area. transport that makes it ideal to set off from and explore.

A CARD THAT OFFERS YOU TRANSPORTATION AND ACCOMMODATION TRANSPORT AND DISCOUNTS!

www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/ltc

PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN THE LAUSANNE REGION The “tl_live” application lets you purchase your ticket, Don’t forget to ask the establishment look up itineraries and real-time schedules (in French only). providing your lodging for your HALDIMAND POINT OF SALE personal Lausanne Transport Card ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSPORTATION Rue Haldimand 3 +41 21 621 01 11 (price of a local call) & More (LTC)! You can use public Monday to Friday: 7.30 am → 7 pm; Saturday: 8 am → 5 pm transport (bus, train, metro) as FLON CUSTOMER CENTRE Pl. de l’Europe 5b you please during your whole stay +41 21 621 01 11 (maximum 15 days) in Lausanne and its Monday to Friday: 7 am → 7 pm; Saturday: 9 am → 6 pm www.t-l.ch/en surroundings. But that’s not all! Thanks to our partners, you benefit from exceptional discounts and advantages from many museums, shops and other leisure activity providers.

“GRAND LAUSANNE” MOBILIS DAY PASS Full fare: CHF 9.30; reduced fare: CHF 6.90. This pass entitles you to whole-day-use of all the public MORE INFORMATION AT: transport companies belonging to the Vaud tariff www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/ltc community present in the Grand Lausanne perimeter (i.e. Lausanne and its immediate surroundings). Available from ticket dispensers or points of sale. For more information, see: www.mobilis-vaud.ch

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CHEMINS DE FER FÉDÉRAUX (CFF) GENEVA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Consulting the timetables for national or international Second in Switzerland after Zurich, Geneva Airport connections from or to Lausanne, preparing your trip is a 45-minute train ride from Lausanne (five trains and buying tickets to travel in Switzerland becomes every hour). It benefits from a network serving 142 direct child’s play with “Mobile CFF” application. destinations, 23 of which are intercontinental. CFF information – Passenger service: Rte. de l’Aéroport 21, Pl. de la Gare 5a Grand-Saconnex +41 848 44 66 88 (within Switzerland) +41 900 57 15 00 +41 51 220 11 11 (calling from abroad) (information about departures and arrivals) www.sbb.ch/en www.gva.ch/en

COMPAGNIE GÉNÉRALE DE NAVIGATION (CGN) LA BLÉCHERETTE LAUSANNE AIRPORT From the simple lake crossing to go to France to a gourmet This aeronautical facility – that celebrated its hundredth cruise on a Belle Époque paddle-wheel vessel, every experience year in 2016 – is located nearby Lausanne’s town centre. on the Lake Geneva waters becomes an unforgettable memory. First flights and air-taxis. Av. de Rhodanie 17 Av. du Grey 117 +41 900 929 929 +41 21 646 15 51 www.cgn.ch/en www.lausanne-airport.ch TRANSPORTATION AND ACCOMMODATION

LEB RAILWAY PUBLIBIKE – SELF-SERVICE BIKE RENTALS Would you like to spend a day in the countryside? Embark on the You will find all the information on the offers and the networks to Lausanne – Echallens – Bercher train that departs from the Flon. Lausanne-Morges on the PubliBike site. Bikes and pushchairs are welcome on board. +41 848 09 08 07 Gare Lausanne-Chauderon www.publibike.ch/en/publibike +41 21 621 01 11 www.leb.ch

www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/getting-around TRANSPORTATION AND ACCOMMODATION AND TRANSPORTATION FIND ACCOMMODATION IN LAUSANNE Would you like to stay at a centrally located, low-priced establishment after enjoying Lausanne’s nightlife, or do you dream of spending the night in a 5-star hotel overlooking the lake? Do you need a comfortable room near the EPFL congress centre? How about a hotel with seminar rooms and high-tech facilities? Or do you imagine a romantic weekend in a boutique hotel? With more than 7,000 beds from 1- to 5-star superior spread over 60 or so establishments, the city of Lausanne allows all its guests to be put up in the best conditions, whether they are here on business or for leisure.

MORE INFORMATION AT: www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/hotels (for hotel bookings)

77 LEGENDARY Open every day 03 RS-AnnTheLausanner148x102mm-Skylounge-Avr19.indd2 AT ROYAL THE SAVOY THE SKYLOUNGE OVER LAUSANNE, LAKE GENEVA AND THE ALPS DISCOVER A 360 DEGREES PANORAMIC VIEW www.royalsavoy.ch [email protected] 88, 88 614 T. +41(0)21 Avenue d’Ouchy 401006 Royal Savoy Hotel &SpaLausanne Reopening onMay 1 Lausanne st 2019 chateau-gruyeres.ch

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VISITS AND PACKAGES Discover the city differently

SWEET LAUSANNE TASTE MY SWISS CITY LAUSANNE Discover the magic of the city and its secrets accompanied A journey of culinary discovery. The by a certified guide. Explore all the subtleties of Lausanne: starter, the main course and the dessert its centre, its antique and modern architecture, its are served in 3 different locations in picturesque spots and its famous trendy district. As the heart of the city, all recommended a finale and to make this experience unforgettable, by local experts. Choose your culinary a tasty surprise will be waiting for you. Yummy! experience and indulge your senses!

VISITS AND PACKAGES www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/activities www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/activities

A TRAVEL JOURNAL FOR YOUR FAMILY VISIT TO LAUSANNE

To entertain your children while you visit the town, Lausanne Tourisme offers them a Travel Journal packed with fun and creative activities, together with colour pencils, a pencil sharpener, an eraser and a tube of glue, all in a very light pouch.

Come and pick up a Travel Journal for each of your children aged five to 10 in one of our tourist information offices, making sure you bring your LTC.

www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/ltc

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF OUR SPECIAL PACKAGES AND GOOD IDEAS AT: Information offices: Ouchy, Train station, Cathedral www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/activities +41 21 613 73 73 [email protected]

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ACTIVITIES FOR THOSE ON TIGHT BUDGETS A leisure offer accessible to all

TO ENSURE THAT ITS RANGE OF RECREATIONAL ACTIVITIES REMAINS ACCESSIBLE TO ALL, THE CITY OF LAUSANNE PUTS ON VARIOUS ACTIVITIES FOR THOSE ON A MODEST BUDGET. HERE ARE A FEW EXAMPLES OF OUTINGS TO BE ENJOYED AS A FAMILY OR AMONG FRIENDS:

FREE OF CHARGE BETWEEN CHF 0 AND CHF 8.50 • Vidy Bowl for skaters • AquaSplash with 5 giant flumes, • Concert at Saint-François church Renens (between CHF 4 and CHF 8) every Saturday at 5 pm • Climbing the Cathedral tower CITY TOURING ON A BUDGET ON TOURING CITY • Hundreds of multi-coloured birds (from CHF 1 to CHF 5) at the Mon-Repos Park aviary • Vidy bowling alley (between • Free entry to most museums on CHF 4.50 and CHF 7.50 per person) the first Saturday of the month • Flon bowling alley (between CHF 5 • Midday concert every Wednesday and CHF 8.50 per person) from October to March at the Haute • Bellerive minigolf (free up to age 4, École de Musique de Lausanne CHF 6 until age 16, then CHF 8) • Mountain biking at Chalet-à-Gobet • Vidy miniature train • Climbing the Sauvabelin Tower (CHF 3 per journey)

MORE INFO: www.my-lausanne.com/en/visiting-lausanne-small-budget-tips-pointers

80 CITY TOURING ON A BUDGET THE HOUSE OF SWISS WATCHES

WATCHES JEWELLERY GEMS Lausanne 1, Rue de Bourg | bucherer.com

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