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Queen Victoria Would Be Amused

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Queen Victoria Would Be Amused Queen Victoria would be amused After sensitive restoration, one of the great royal castles of Europe is lowering the drawbridge for the first time and Julian Allason is entranced by the secrets it reveals f Saxe-Coburg and Gotha has a familiar higher, the most handsome being that of the ring, it should, and not just to Britons. Judengasse, marking the entrance to the old The dynasty—which continues to flour- Jewish quarter. The magnificent church of ish here as the House of Windsor—has St Moriz is undergoing restoration, which Ialso furnished Belgium, Portugal and Bulgaria is scheduled to be completed before the with sovereigns. Indeed, the descendants 500th anniversary of the Reformation in 2017. of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert of The elegant Landestheater remains open Saxe-Coburg and Gotha have ruled Germany, and boasts a playbill of productions remark- Russia, Romania, Yugoslavia, Greece, Spain, able for a town with a population of just Norway, Sweden and Denmark—and still 42,000. As a centre of advanced engineering, do in the last four. As a result, it’s unsurprising Coburg is prosperous and proud of a heritage The layout that the ducal house has been somewhat inseparable from the dynasty. eclipsed, however, the family continues to thrive Its head, Prince Andreas, has recently is nothing if not in northern Bavaria at Coburg and has opened handed over the running of ducal affairs— eccentric:‘ the its seat, Callenberg Castle, to public view. including large-scale forestry—to his son. Coburg lies between frankfurt and Munich, A tall, engaging figure with Wall Street audience room reached from London by British Airways banking experience and possessed of a self- flights into either city thence by train through deprecating manner, the 39-year-old Prince opens onto a rose Railbookers. The medieval town nestles Hubertus maintains a low-key involvement in a valley between two mountains com- in local politics. A formative influence has garden atop the manded by castles: Callenberg and the fortress been the restoration of Callenberg Castle. battlements of Veste Coburg. It was here that Martin Luther ‘It was our family’s summer residence and sheltered in 1530 under ducal protection greatly loved,’ he explains. ‘Every important from the wrath of the Holy Roman Emperor. family ceremony and event happened here.’ Not having been bombed during the Second The last duke, Carl Eduard, remained ’ Callenberg Castle in Coburg, Germany, is the family seat of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, a bloodline that appears in many of Europe’s royal families World War, the architecture of the old town in residence until 1945. Thereafter, it became Writing in her diary, Queen Victoria remains delightfully intact. British visitors a school and increasingly rundown, so much recorded: ‘A little steep, the way up to Callen- of the 18th-century cabinet-maker David sustainability for major projects. At Callen- are welcome here, if comparatively infrequent. so that, in the late 1970s, the town invited berg castle, but once you have arrived there, Roentgen, pioneer of new techniques in berg, this has taken the form of a sensitive Visiting Coburg My questions in halting German to a market the family to buy it back. ‘To reinstate the you can enjoy a nice cup of tea in a beautiful marquetry—and concealed drawers. An conversion of stables and outbuildings into British Airways (www.britishairways.com) trader were, however, answered in fluent fabric and interiors was a formidable under- surrounding.’ Today, the Prince offers me exquisite secretaire required lengthy cottages and apartments for let. ‘No one family flies from London to Frankfurt and English—and the superiority of local beer taking and turned into a 15-year project,’ coffee and an introduction to his American investigation before surrendering its secrets. can otherwise support the cost of maintain- Munich from £118 return with checked asserted with a grin. recalls the Prince. ‘But we wanted to do it investment-banker wife, Princess Kelly. ‘Let The collection of Roentgen furniture, includ- ing such monuments,’ remarks Coburg’s luggage. Railbookers (020–3697 6829; One feature of the architecture is the authentically and worked closely with the me show you something,’ she enthuses, ing clocks, is considered the most important director of tourism, Michael Amthor. www.railbookers.co.uk) offers short breaks erker, a corner turret rising two storeys conservation authorities.’ pointing out a portrait of Duke Carl Eduard, in private hands. Certainly, David Linley was He welcomes not only the opening to Coburg from £479 based on three above a tall column, seen on the Rathaus Not the least problem was to what stage beside which are displayed the sword and entranced on a visit and was prompted to give of Callenberg as an attraction to visitors, nights, including BA flights to Frankfurt, and Stadthaus. Gates in the city wall ascend it should be restored. Callenberg had origi- Order of the Garter he’s painted wearing. a talk on the work of the master. An exhibition but also the availability of parts of the castle rail travel and four-star hotel accommo- nally been a fort, documented from 1122, This is the charm of Callenberg—grandeur of clocks is planned for April this year, for meetings and weddings, all of which dation with breakfast. Hotel Goldene Prince Hubertus met and progressively enlarged. Duke Ernst I had alongside intimate glimpses of family life. including several by Roentgen. bring business to the town. Such is the Traube (00 49 9561 876 0; www. his wife, Princess Kelly, the castle redesigned in 1827 by Karl Alexander In one suite of rooms hang pictures of Victoria The results of the castle’s restoration are interest that the German National Tourist goldenetraube.com) offers double rooms from 125, including breakfast when he was working von Heideloff, architect and master builder and Albert and each of their nine children. undetectable. The chapel royal has the pulpit Board has now added the castle to its Royal € in finance in the USA of Nuremberg. To this, his son Ernst II added It’s reminiscent of the domestic atmosphere positioned behind and above the altar. At the Heritage Route. a neo-Gothic façade in 1856. of Osborne House, the royal escape on the end of my visit, Princess Katherina was I stayed at the centrally located Hotel The resulting layout is nothing if not Isle of Wight where the little princes and baptised here in a christening ceremony Goldene Traube, acclaimed for its Michelin- Callenberg Castle opens every Tuesday eccentric: the audience room opens onto princesses played in a Swiss chalet. attended by members of the European royal starred restaurant and sumptuous wine to Sunday from 11am to 5pm in summer a rose garden atop the battlements. Osborne’s design was strongly influenced houses. But for the insertion of an invisible list. As I checked out, staff in traditional and 1pm to 4pm in winter—visit www. When exploring the castle, it isn’t by Albert and inspiration for what Victoria steel frame, the chapel roof could well have costume were preparing to bow in royal schloss-callenberg.com or telephone always clear on which level one lauded as its ‘unpalacelike rooms’ seems collapsed upon those anointed heads. guests from across Europe, there for the 00 49 9561 5515 0. For information will emerge. At one point, I found to have come from Callenberg. In heritage circles, the Prince is credited christening of the new princess. In the world about Coburg and the surrounding area, myself in the German Shooting Not only is the furniture original, much with having persuaded German conservation of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, family ties visit www.coburg-tourist.de and www. Museum, which is hosted here. of it is of museum quality, notably the work authorities of the necessity of financial remain indissoluble. germany.travel/royalheritage www.countrylife.co.uk www.countrylife.co.uk Country Life, January 28, 2015 51.
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