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The Goose Group

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The Goose Group At the The Goose Group:e dge of the Edge explore the little-documented Goose Group and its anchorages, shore forays and dinghy trips sTORY & PHOTOS BY Jennifer & JAmes HamilTon he Goose Group is at What the islands lack in protection the edge of the edge, they make up for in a unique and diverse and feels that way. ecosystem. White-sand beaches soften the harsh terrain. Seabirds and many Reefs, off-lying rocks kinds of marine life, including sea otters, T and underwater shelves occupy the shores. surround the islands, The islands are part of the Hakai Lux- and their low topography vbalis (pronounced hack-eye looks-bal-ease) provides little wind shel- Conservancy Area, which borders Queen Charlotte Sound. At 1,230 square kilome- ter for anchoring. Evidence tres (475 square miles), it’s the province’s of fierce storms is vis- largest marine park. The Goose Group ible everywhere. Stunted, forms the park’s western boundary and is windswept trees cling to separated from the rest by seven-mile-wide land. Driftwood has been Queens Sound. This separation gives the Goose Group its “edge-of-the-edge” feel. cast high onto the outer The islands are popular with kayakers shores and fills the south- who bravely cross Queens Sound, a body facing beaches. of water that feels open and exposed in 34 • August 2007 • www.pacificyachting.com PY_AUG07_34-39_GOOSE.indd 34 7/12/07 12:59:50 PM Clear water and a bonsai-like tree on a small island between Snipe and Gull islands gave the place a delicate, serene feel. PY_AUG07_34-39_GOOSE.indd 35 7/12/07 12:59:53 PM and Gosling islands are one. We walked to the islets between the two on a nine-foot tide. The structure we could see from the boat was a large lean- to with a moat. We found several camp- QUEEN sites hidden in the woods behind, some CHARLOTTE with carefully made driftwood chairs Goose Island and tables, and even an outdoor toilet SOUND complete with seat and lid. It seemed we’d stumbled onto a secret realm of the • “Little People.” Goose Group The “Little People” is a term for kayak- Goose I. ers we picked up from Iain Lawrence’s Swan I. Anchorage Far-Away Places. “The Little People are elusive,” writes Lawrence, with affection Vivian Rk. Gull I. Snipe I. and respect. “We saw their campsites Duck I. and their fire pits years before we saw the Anchorage Snipe I. Anchorage first one on the water. They’re hardy and Duck I. Gosling I. brave, and they can fit themselves into N places we could never hope to reach. I envy the Little People for their freedom Gosling Rks. and admire them for their endurance.” On the east side, a lovely basin between Snipe and Gull islands was the best part. The sand on the surrounding 0 1 QUEENS SOUND beaches was deep and soft, while the Scale in Miles clear water and the bonsai-like tree on Currie It. a small island in the middle gave the place a delicate, serene feel. Little wind seemed to reach there, despite the rug- ged seascape. our 40-foot powerboat Dirona. At night THE liTTlE PEOPlE From where we were the kayakers camp on sheltered beaches anchored, we could see structures above THE EASTERN EDGE Conditions were throughout the islands, where there are the beaches on both Snipe and Gosling calm—ideal for a dinghy exploration of the no all-weather anchorages for pleasure islands, so we set off on the dinghy to islands’ windblown eastern shores. North- craft. But in settled weather, several explore. We landed first at Snipe Island. east of Gull Island we spotted a sea otter. locations have reasonable west wind and The west beach there has talcum-soft swell protection. sand and, as the tide falls, the beach The west beach on Snipe island grows and grows as the tide falls—probably until Snipe and grows and grows—probably until Snipe Gosling islands are one. KARP MAP STEVE SNiPE iSlAND ANCHORAGE The most accessible and popular of the Goose Group anchorages is Goose Island Anchorage, between Goose and Gosling islands, but having anchored there before, we instead tried the four-metre cove on the northeast shore of Gos- ling Island, west of Snipe Island. The cove is open to the southeast, but has reasonable protection from prevailing westerly winds. The anchorage was beautiful, with wide sand beaches at both ends. Despite the driftwood and evergreens, when the sun shone briefly it felt like the tropics. We were especially glad to be there, with the cove all to ourselves, when two other pleasure craft arrived to overnight in nearby Goose Island Anchorage. 36 • August 2007 • www.pacificyachting.com PY_AUG07_34-39_GOOSE.indd 36 7/12/07 1:00:02 PM this may have been one of Kayak Bill’s camps, perhaps the one where he died in 2001. Kayak Bill was a lone spirit and some- thing of a legend on the coast. He lived off the land and kayaked between the many elaborate camps he had set up on remote, uninhabited islands throughout the north and central coasts. Alan says he’s still finding Kayak Bill’s camps hid- den away in obscure coves. A trail led behind the shelter to the cove that we’d earlier explored by din- ghy, halfway down the east shore of Above: This structure found on Gosling island may have been one of Kayak Bill’s camps, per- logs lodged well above the waterline. It Gosling Island. The trail was open and haps the one where he died in 2001, says Alan was exciting enough in fair weather, but afforded a relatively easy walk through Hobler, mid-coast area supervisor for BC Parks. we’d not want to be near this coast in a large coniferous trees. The landscape Below and right: The beach at the Gosling southeast blow. island trail’s end had good beachcombing opportunities (below). All sorts of natural and We spent ages poking about the islets man-made debris could be found, including and reefs in the large bay halfway down much that seemed of Japanese origin (right). Gosling Island. Seabirds were every- where, along with many curious seals. A It stared at us with its whiskered snout white-sand beach headed the cove at the extended high out of the water, then van- extreme south end of the island, where ished when we approached. The west coast an astonishing amount of driftwood had of Vancouver Island and the area between blown ashore. the Goose Group and Milbanke Sound are home to the only known sea otter colonies KAyak Bill We explored Gosling Island in British Columbia. The Goose Group sea on foot as well. The other structure we otters are more timid than their counter- could see from the anchorage was a parts along Vancouver Island, where people substantial driftwood shelter. It looked are more common. as if hunters or fishers built it, rather The east shore of Gosling Island was than kayakers. Alan Hobler, mid-coast bleak and forbidding, with huge driftwood area supervisor for BC Parks, thinks PY_AUG07_34-39_GOOSE.indd 37 7/12/07 1:00:26 PM GVHAPacYachtingAug07.pdf 6/25/2007 3:09:45 PM Marinas in the heart of the city Victoria BC Canada • 4 unique marinas - Causeway Floats, Ship Point, C wasn’t nearly the open forest canopy We found all sorts of natural and man- M Fisherman’s Wharf, Wharf Street of the mainland but was different from made debris, including much that the scrubby, stunted trees that we’re seemed of Japanese origin. Y used to elsewhere in Queen Charlotte CM • EXPANDED dock facilities - large Sound. The beach at the trail’s end THE SOUTHERN EDGE We left Snipe MY vessel capacity had good beachcombing opportunities. Island Anchorage the next morning to CY visit the little-explored waters around Swan and Duck islands, off the south- CMY • new marina amenities - iF yOU GO west tip of Goose Island. While we K Goose islAnD AnChorAGe Easy could have passed more directly around laundromat, showers anchoring with good swing room is the south side of Gosling Island, the between the five and 10-metre contour remote Currie Islet light beckoned. • competitive moorage rates lines northeast of Gosling island. Holding is moderate to good over sand. Currie Islet is at the far end of Gos- • enhanced security ling Rocks, a series of reefs and islets snipe islAnD AnChorAGe This is our that extends south of the Goose Group. name for the cove between Snipe and Even in settled weather, the area felt Gosling islands. The cove has reasonable exposed and desolate. But only for west wind protection but is open to the humans—so many seabirds covered southeast. Anchor in two to six metres Gosling Rocks that the land was hardly with a 50-metre swing radius. Holding visible. When we finally rounded that is poor over sand and kelp. We rigged a lonesome light on the end of Currie tandem anchor—two anchors in line, Islet, the constant northwest swell was connected by a short length of chain— apparent. The rocks provided an unex- and got good holding. pected lee. For moorage or reservations, please call As we approached the anchorage DuCK islAnD AnChorAGe This is our along the east side of Duck Island, toll-free 1-877-783-8300 name for the anchorage off the northeast another sea otter craned its neck for side of Duck island. Anchor just outside the a good look before disappearing under or 250-383-8326 five-metre contour line.
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