NORTHERN DELIGHT We Visit a Luxurious Tented Camp in Thailand’S Mystical Golden Triangle
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WHO’S GUIDE TO THE MOST LUXURIOUS DESTINATIONS HERE AND ABROAD NORTHERN DELIGHT We visit a luxurious tented camp in Thailand’s mystical Golden Triangle Who l 69 The luxurious private pool at the Explorer’s Lodge. Amy’s tent featured a freestanding Fresh coconuts by the pool with bath and handcrafted furniture. views over the Ruak River. Rustic yet elegant safari-inspired decor features in the breezy superiortents. Enjoy Thai, Laotian and Burmese cooking at Nong Yao restaurant. AMY MILLS WHO Travel Editor Amy takes in the jungle view after her Ruak Bamboo massage. tepping into a traditional long-tail boat We arrive at a jetty and climb a set of narrow After lunch, a vintage Land Rover is on hand to king-sized bed, my dream writing desk and of lanterns and baskets woven with fairy lights. a combination of local herbal oils and natural in Thailand’s Golden Triangle, the stairs where we are each encouraged to hit a transport fellow guests to their tents, while I am handcrafted furniture. We end our evening by releasing khom loy bamboo sticks. uniqueness of my destination, where gong three times for health, wealth and luck. told mine is only a five-minute walk away. The pièce de résistance, though, is the lanterns into the sky and making a wish, Walking back to my tent to pack, I think about northern Thailand, Myanmar and Ebullient camp manager Tobias Emmer There are a total of 15 luxury tents – superior freestanding bathtub in the centre of the room. although, in this moment, I already feel the experiences I’ve had and how this property is Laos intersect, is not lost on me. warmly greets us and we sit down in the camp’s and deluxe – positioned throughout the 200-acre On the right, there’s a separate toilet and an exceptionally lucky. so much more about creating memories than just SWe arrive at the jetty in the province of Chiang main restaurant, Nong Yao, for a sumptuous property, each with a different theme. outside dual-head rain shower looking out over The following day after breakfast, we spend being a luxurious place to sleep – a must for Rai after a four-hour drive from Thailand’s second Thai lunch. There’s also a two-bedroom Explorer’s Lodge the grasslands. time with the rescue elephants learning how today’s discerning travellers who are seeking out largest city and cultural mecca, Chiang Mai. Many The decor features a 19th century safari- which has a private swimming pool. I walk out onto my private balcony and can’t to ethically interact with these magnificent imaginative hotel concepts. visitors to the Golden Triangle opt to fly direct to adventure theme with its open-air, thatched-roof I follow a paved path through the lush jungle resist slipping into the timber hot tub, taking a creatures including Yuki, who spent years “Today’s luxury traveller wants to experience Chiang Rai International Airport but I thoroughly pavilion, rustic floorboards and customised setting and walk over a suspended bridge. moment to admire the view of the grasslands and performing in Thailand’s crowded tourist strips hidden gems,” Emmer tells me. enjoy the scenic drive, stopping to visit the famed handcrafted touches. The idea of staying in a luxurious safari-style native wildlife. such as Pattaya before being rescued and “We cater to foodies, glampers, adventurers, White Temple (Wat Rong Khun) en route. The delicious lunch dishes are created with tent in an exotic location under the stars is a The camp works closely with the Golden brought to the camp. hikers and bikers, animal lovers, culture seekers Now, as we sail down the Ruak River to the seasonal, fresh ingredients sourced locally where romantic one – think Meryl Streep in Out of Africa Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation, which Returning to my luxurious tent after each ... all topped up with the Four Seasons world- Four Seasons Tented Camp, we watch water possible and we share vegetable spring rolls, – but my deluxe Bird Watcher tent exceeds rescues overworked elephants from city streets activity, meal or dip in the main pool is always a famous service.” I have to say, the connected, buffalo bathe in the Ruak and local fishermen grilled tiger prawns and a pomelo Thai salad. For expectations. and rehabilitates them, and I spy one of the highlight as is a visit to the spa, which comprises intuitive and committed service Emmer and his check their rattan fishing baskets, which are a main, I opt for steamed fish with chilli and lime Designed by prolific Bangkok-based architect four-legged residents taking a stroll through of two isolated open-air salas looking out over team provide is impressive and I leave feeling sprinkled along the riverbank. sauce and a signature lemongrass martini, which, and landscape designer Bill Bensley – renowned the trees below. the bamboo forest. unreservedly pampered. With Thailand on one side of the river, Emmer informs me, you can’t leave the premises for designing resorts with minimal impact on the Sundowners are enjoyed at the Burma Bar, There’s no music to allow you to really In this fast-paced, digitally connected world, Myanmar (formerly Burma) on the other and the without trying. environment – my elevated jungle abode was where fellow guests are also enjoying the reconnect with nature and listen to the sweet this natural oasis is an idyllic place to slow down, mountains of Laos looming in the distance, I feel The camp is all-inclusive, which means all inspired by top-tier safari lodges in Africa and hospitality and glorious view. songs provided by the native birds. relax, enjoy some truly unique immersive a sense of excitement that I haven’t felt in some meals and beverages, including house wines and Thailand’s hill-tribe villages. When the sun disappears behind the My therapist Yommi gives me the best experiences and an obligatory lemongrass time, knowing I’m experiencing one of the world’s spirits, are included in the tariff, so if you fancy There are hardwood timber floorboards, mountains, we enjoy a three-course private treatment I’ve had in Thailand, the 90-minute martini – or two. truly unique locations. a martini at lunch, the staff will whip one up. lanterns for pendant lights, brass basins, a dinner and classical Thai music under a plethora Ruak Bamboo, a full-body massage using fourseasons.com/goldentriangle 70 l Who Who l 71 GETTING A traditional Thai THERE long-tail boat We flew from Sydney to Bangkok passes water buffalo on the with Thai Airways business class, Ruak River. which offered flawless service and comfort. From there, we flew to Koh Samui for a few days of rest and relaxation and then to Chiang Mai with Bangkok Airways. Explore the markets in Tachileik for local EXPLORING THE produce. GOLDEN TRIANGLE Notorious for once being at the We also enjoyed Four heart of South East Asia’s opium Seasons’ four-hour Burma trade, the Golden Triangle Discovery Tour. certainly has a colourful history. After driving 30 minutes For that reason, The Hall of through the countryside, we Opium, just 10 minutes from the arrived in Thailand’s northern camp and close to the very fields most district of Mae Sai and where millions of poppies once crossed the border into bloomed, is definitely a must Myanmar. One-day passes for while in the Golden Triangle. non-Burmese nationals crossing It is both informative and into Myanmar are issued at harrowing as the interactive Myanmar customs in Tachileik. displays and presentations After jumping in tuk-tuks in detail the history of opium the border town of Tachileik, growing and trade in the region, we visited two temples and the British Opium Wars and the some local markets brimming economic and social cost of with local produce and drug addiction. handcrafted items. 72 l Who .