© Lonely Planet Publications 339 Northern Thailand The first true Thai kingdoms arose in northern Thailand, endowing this region with a rich cultural heritage. Whether at the sleepy town of Lamphun or the famed ruins of Sukhothai, the ancient origins of Thai art and culture can still be seen. A distinct Thai culture thrives in northern Thailand. The northerners are very proud of their local customs, considering their ways to be part of Thailand’s ‘original’ tradition. Look for symbols displayed by northern Thais to express cultural solidarity: kàlae (carved wooden ‘X’ motifs) on house gables and the ubiquitous sêua mâw hâwm (indigo-dyed rice-farmer’s shirt). The north is also the home of Thailand’s hill tribes, each with their own unique way of life. The region’s diverse mix of ethnic groups range from Karen and Shan to Akha and Yunnanese. The scenic beauty of the north has been fairly well preserved and has more natural for- est cover than any other region in Thailand. It is threaded with majestic rivers, dotted with waterfalls, and breathtaking mountains frame almost every view. The provinces in this chapter have a plethora of natural, cultural and architectural riches. Enjoy one of the most beautiful Lanna temples in Lampang Province. Explore the impressive trekking opportunities and the quiet Mekong river towns of Chiang Rai Province. The exciting hairpin bends and stunning scenery of Mae Hong Son Province make it a popular choice for trekking, river and motorcycle trips. Home to many Burmese refugees, Mae Sot in Tak Province is a fascinating frontier town. Less visited areas like Um Phang are becoming well known for more remote treks, and provinces like Nan and Phrae are worth the extra hike for the unusual temples and some of the best mountain scenery in the north. HIGHLIGHTS Exploring caves ( p443 ) and doing motor- Chiang Rai cycle rides ( p443 ) around Soppong Soppong province Taking in the frontier-town feel of Mae Sot ( p417 ) and then heading to Um Phang, Nan where the end of the road leads to Nam Tok Thilawsu ( p426 ), Thailand’s biggest, Elephant Conservation most beautiful waterfall Centre Learning to be a mahout (elephant care- Si Satchanalai-Chaliang taker) at Lampang’s Elephant Conservation Historical Park Centre ( p348 ) NORTHERN THAILAND Sukhothai Mae Sot Historical Getting off the beaten path in Nan to see Park the beautiful murals at Wat Phumin ( p388 ) Cycling around the awesome ruins of Um Phang Thailand’s ‘golden age’ at Sukhothai ( p403 ) and Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park ( p408 ) Volunteering in an Akha village in Chiang Rai Province ( p354 ) 340 NORTHERN THAILAND •• History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN THAILAND 341 until the northern provinces finally became 0 100 km NORTHERN THAILAND 0 60 miles FAST FACTS part of the kingdom of Siam in this early pe- Best Time to Visit November to March riod of the 20th century. Tachileik Mae Sai L A O S Population 7.8 Million Chiang Saen Huay Xai Climate Ban Thoet Chiang Mae Salong Thai Khong The mountains in northern Thailand influ- Mae Chan M Y A N M A R Doi Ang Tha Ton Mae Salak 110 History ence the climate. It can get quite cold in the (B U R M A) Khang Mae See p362 (1300m) Nam Kok Northern Thailand’s history has been char- highland town of Mae Hong Son and rain River See p430 Fang Wawi Chiang Rai 1020 Mekong acterised by the shifting powers of various pockets can get stuck in the ranges of Tak 1 Tha Sai 107 109 Thoeng independent principalities. One of the most Province. The central-plains areas around CHIANG MAI Huay Nam Dang CHIANG RAI See p384 National Park Mae Suay significant early cultural influences in the Sukhothai are less variable. Doi Chiang Phan Nam Tok Soppong Dao Doi Luang Wang Kaew Ban Huay north was the Mon kingdom of Hariphunchai (Pangmapha) (2195m) National Park Chiang Kham 1080 Kon Pai (modern Lamphun), which held sway from National Parks Wiang Papao Chun Thung Mae Hong Son Mae PHAYAO Chang Chiang Chai the late 8th century until the 13th century. Travellers who make it to one of northern Dao Si Lanna Chiang Klang 1021 1091 National Park Pua The Hariphunchai art and Buddha images Thailand’s national parks usually consider Wang Pong Mae Taeng Neua Phayao Doi Phu Kha 1082 (2000m) are particularly distinctive, and many good it a highlight of their trip. In a region where MAE Doi Pui HONG National Park 118 Chae Son National Park NAN examples can be found at the Hariphunchai the elevation reaches as high as 2000m, the SON Mae Rim Samoeng 1 Khun Yuam National Museum in Lamphun. north is home to some of Thailand’s rarest Doi Saket Jae Hom LAMPANG Nan Chiang Mai Ngao Mae Yom The Thais, who had migrated down from geography and wildlife. Chae Son ( p349 ) is Doi Inthanon Kheuan National Park 108 (2595m) Tham Pha China since around the 7th century, united known for its waterfalls. Doi Luang ( p349 ) Mae Chang Thai 1125 108 Lamphun Wiang Sa Doi Inthanon Doi Khun Tan 103 various principalities in the 13th century – and Thung Salaeng Luang ( p401 ) were desig- Lum Nam Khong National Park Pasang National Park National Park Song Chom Ping 101 this resulted in the creation of Sukhothai nated for wildlife protection. While Phu Hin 11 Thong Ban Hong Lampang PHRAE and the taking of Hariphunchai from the Rong Kla ( p400 ) is of interest for its ties to Nam Mae Hot Thai Elephant Sariang Conservation Phrae Mon. In 1238 Sukhothai declared itself an Thailand’s Communist Party. Other parks in 108 Mae 1184 Ob Luang Centre 11 1023 independent kingdom under King Si Inthar- the north include Lum Nam Kong National National Park Thung Hua Mae Tha Yom 1022 Chang Wang Nam Den Fak Tha athit and quickly expanded its sphere of in- Park ( p433 ) with its lazy river, and Doi Phu Chai Mae Mae Kheuan fluence. Sukhothai is considered by Thais Kha (see p391 ) with its 2000m peaks. All of CHIANG MAI 106 Sirikit UTARADIT 1268 LAMPHUN 1 to be the first true Thai kingdom. In 1296 the national parks in this section are worth 105 LAOS Utaradit Nan King Mengrai established Chiang Mai after the extra effort if you love nature and want Mae Ping Thoen Nam Ban Tha 101 Mae Wang National Park 102 conquering the influential Mon kingdom of some peace and quiet. Song Yang Si Satchanalai Pa Chun Mae Nam LAMPANG Mae Sarit Ban Hat Hariphunchai. Siaw Mae Sawankhalok Dan Sai Later, Chiang Mai, in an alliance with Su- Language Moei 1 khothai in the 14th and 15th centuries, be- Northern Thais (khon meuang) are known Tha Song Yang Nam PHITSANULOK Si Samrong Phu Hin came a part of the larger kingdom of Lan Na for their relaxed, easy-going manner, which TAK SUKHOTHAI 101 Nan 11 Nakhon Thai Rong Kla National Park Mae Ramat Sukhothai Thai (Million Thai Rice Fields), popularly shows up in their speech – the northern dia- 2013 12 12 Wang referred to as Lanna. This extended as far lect (kham meuang) has a slower rhythm than Tak Thong Mae Phitsanulok Lom 105 Mae Lam Nam south as Kamphaeng Phet and as far north Thailand’s three other main dialects. 1063 12 Sak Mae Sot Nam Khek Nam Myawadi 101 Thung Salaeng as Luang Prabang in Laos. The golden age of Ping Khao Kho 1 Krabeu Luang Wildlife Yom 2258 Lanna was in the 15th century. For a short Getting There & Away 1090 1109 Sanctuary Kamphaeng 115 Phichit 203 time the Sukhothai capital was moved to Phit- Some travellers make stops in this region en Phop Phra Phet Phetchabun sanulok (1448–86), and Chiang Mai became route between Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Oth- 1090 PHICHIT PHETCHABUN Khlong Lan Khlong 117 an important religious and cultural centre. ers only use Chiang Mai as a point for other National Park Mae Nam Sak Khlung 113 However, many Thai alliances declined in the destinations. Either way, train access is limited Ban Mae KAMPHAENG Klong Mai PHET Khanu 16th century. This weakness lead to the Bur- to the northern line out of Chiang Mai. But See p415 Um Phang Woralaksaburi 21 Um Phang Nam Tok Nong Phai Wildlife Sanctuary Thilawsu Mae Wong Chumsaeng mese capturing Chiang Mai in 1556 and their just about everywhere in the region is acces- National Nong Bua Palatha Park 225 control of Lanna for the next two centuries. sible by bus, except the outlying communi- M Y A N M A R Beung 11 225 TAK NORTHERN THAILAND Letongkhu Kleung NAKHON Nakhon Sawan Kheuan The Thais regrouped after the Burmese took ties along the Myanmar border where the (B U R M A) Huay Kha SAWAN Mae Wong Kaeng National Ayuthaya in 1767, and under King Kawila, sǎwngthǎew (pick-up truck) is the transport Park Huay 1 NAKHON Thap SAWAN Thung Yai Chiang Mai was recaptured in 1774 and the of choice. Salao Uthai Naresuan Tak Fa Burmese were pushed north. Wildlife Reserve Thani Three Pagodas Huay Kha Payathonzu Khaeng In the late 19th century Rama V of Bangkok Getting Around Pass UTHAI THANI Ta Khli Chainat Sangkhlaburi LOPBURI made efforts to integrate the northern region If you know how to ride a motorcycle, rent 311 11 Ban Mi 323 CHAINAT 205 333 with the centre to ward off the colonial threat. one. If you don’t know how to ride one it’s Kheuan Hankha Khao The completion of the northern railway to easy to learn and you’ll be glad you did. Kheuan 21 Kaem KANCHANABURI Krasiaw 1 SINGBURI Lopburi NORTHERN THAILAND Chiang Mai in 1921 strengthened those links For around 150B per day, sometimes less, 342 LAMPHUN PROVINCE •• Lamphun Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com LAMPHUN PROVINCE •• Pasang 343 you can get out of town and see the idyllic WAT CHAMA THEWI main market in town, opposite Wat Pasang countryside.