Publishing project: APT Servizi Emilia Romagna Unione di prodotto Appennino e Verde Unione di prodotto Città d’arte, cultura, affari Unione di prodotto Costa

Concept & graphic design: Empresa Creativa

Texts: Lorenzo Frassoldati

Translation: Link up, Rimini

Photographs: Photo Archive of APT Servizi Photo Archive of Unioni di prodotto Appennino e Verde - Città d’arte, cultura, affari - Costa. Photo Archive of the following provinces: Piacenza, Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, , Ferrara, Ravenna, Forlì-Cesena, Rimini.

Printed in April 2010 by Labanti e Nanni Industrie Grafi che - Crespellano (Bologna) Simply delicious!

Intense fragrances and delicious fl avours. For all those who live in Emilia-Romagna, a region that enjoys an excellent quality of life, the culture of good food is synonymous with tradition, friendship and hospitality. To allow excellent balsamic vinegars, sweet hams and exquisite wines to “rest”, we have sacrifi ced hundreds of rooms, at times even entire farmhouses. It’s true that nature has given us fertile lands for growing wonderful products and perfect microclimates for curing and maturing them. However, the key to our success lies in the harmonious union between the work of man and the cycles of nature, between cultivation and production, between processing and distribution. Thanks to these wonderful synergies we have managed, over the centuries, to guarantee our children, and the entire world excellent food and wine products. We are extremely jealous of these things, but have always shared them with friends, with guests, with everyone. That is why we have put together this small guide-book packed with suggestions for travels in our region discovering fantastic food and wine products to take home or give as gifts while staying in comfortable hotels or at relaxing holiday farms. We will show you ancient production techniques, teach you about wines and cheeses, take you to visit museums, cities and hills; you will become chefs and sommeliers and we will reveal all our treasures to you - from vintage cars to art collections. We look forward to meeting you, because we have something “special” for you to try.

Massimo Gottifredi Andrea Babbi President Managing Director APT Servizi Emilia-Romagna APT Servizi Emilia-Romagna (Regional tourist board) (Regional tourist board)

Index

2 Introduction 6 Map 8 Piacenza & surroundings 16 Parma & surroundings 24 Reggio Emilia & surroundings 32 Modena & surroundings 40 Bologna & surroundings 48 Ferrara & surroundings 56 Ravenna & surroundings 64 Forlì - Cesena & surroundings 72 Rimini & surroundings 80 Events calendar

Piacenza & surroundings 9 - Piacenza & surroundings

•Coppa piacentina PDO PDO Padano • piacentina PDO •Pancetta PDO Valpadana • PGI •Salame Cremona •Salame piacentino PDO PDO •Salamini italiani alla cacciatora To drink To eat GUTTURNIO FESTIVAL GUTTURNIO Piacentino Carpaneto April Last week in PO’ DI GUSTO - UN A BIT OF FLAVOUR Lower Piacenza area November •Colli Piacentini DOC •Emilia IGT IGT di Veleja •Terre IGT •Valtidone Events

s Marguerite of Austria commissioned The gastronomic delights of Piacenza plans for a lavish, fairytale palace; this are without doubt its three excellent was how Palazzo Farnese came about, a cold cuts; Coppa, Pancetta and Salami, palace-castle that has few equals in Italy all awarded PDO recognition. It also and the fi rst place to visit in Piacenza. It boasts quality cheeses like is equally unusual to fi nd two sculptures PDO and Provolone Valpadana PDO. that both give their name to a square; Excellent wines are produced on the hills Piazza Cavalli, the most beautiful open around Piacenza, in particular the red space in town. This is where the “Gotico”, wine Gutturnio and the white Ortugo. A the symbol of the city also known as typical dish is “pisarei e fasò”, an ideal the Palazzo del Comune, stands. Built way to use stale , and main courses in Gothic Lombard style, it is adorned like roast coppa and “picula ad caval”, with merlons and porticoes. Next to it minced horse meat with tomatoes, onion is the church of San Francesco, fi lled and peppers. with works of art, and Piazza Duomo, where attention turns to the Romanesque cathedral in pink marble (12th century). INFO: Piacenza Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 0523 329324 www.comune.piacenza.it www.provincia.pc.it/turismo

Don’t miss PPROVOLONE VALPADANA PDO & GRANA PADANO PDO Stretched and processed, then wrapped around itself and shaped; this is how curds are processed in the cheese factories that make Provolone Valpadana PDO. The stretching is a key moment in the processing of Provolone Valpadana: what comes out is a ribbon that is then wrapped around itself and fi nally, shaped to ensure it has no air bubbles. It is a versatile and modern cheese that is popular internationally and is much appreciated by connoisseurs. It can be sweet or strong, fresh or matured and mandarin-shaped or cylindrical. The other “must-have” of the area is Grana Padano, PDO Italian cheese that is a symbol of typicality and tradition in the world. This cheese owes its characteristic fragrance and aroma to the milk used to produce it, which in turn is linked to the fodder given to the milk cattle. 11 - Piacenza & surroundings our, our, water, avours in an event called “Un po’ di in an event “Un called avours natural yeast, yeast brewer’s and salt, “bread with stamp” a It has this name is prepared. placed in thesmall ball of dough is because a a stamp, of thecentre like loaf, thus giving it cycle forits distinctive The processing shape. thanksthis checked is bread awareness to keen thatof the processes delicate microbiological additives and no chemical occur during proving the dough. Numerous used to prepare are outside the topeople come from buy province this that with bread is excellent all kinds of food. Ponte dell’Olio & bread “with a stamp” “with dell’Olio & bread Ponte using wheat fl dell’Olio, In Ponte gusto”. (Consortium of Typical Cold Cuts of Piacenza) (Consortium of Typical www.piacenzafoodvalley.com the lower Piacenza area Every year in November, celebrates local fl avour that has made themavour famous. avoured as it matures. as it matures. avoured Pig farming Piacenza dates back in the around area to the a millennium before Christian era. However, the tradition of butchering, salting and curing tastypork meat to make cold cuts was consolidated Piacenza can boast Today during the Ages. Middle three wonderful of this examples ancient art; Coppa, Salami and Pancetta PDO. Pigs destined for these the of Emilia Romagna cold cuts come from regions is limited to but the area processing and Lombardy, thethe of Piacenza alone, where climatic Province and territorial characteristics fundamental are for the unmistakeable fl The hallmark of these cold cuts is a delicate balance between sweet and savoury, as well as the particular thataroma characterizes products. cured Info: Consorzio Salumi Tipici Piacentini Worth trying Castel San Giovanni & & Robiola San Giovanni Castel In the near Castel area San Giovanni, Morfasso and other of the areas Piacenza, Apennines near thiscow’s made using whole cheese is fresh salt, grappa liqueur milk. , milk or mixed or dryis added. It sometimes white wine are stored jars under oil, becoming more in glass intensely fl COPPA PIACENTINA AND OTHER PDO COLD CUTS AND OTHER PDO COLD PIACENTINA COPPA Monticelli d’Ongina & garlic Monte Lazzarina & The product that symbolizes this village on the Caciotta farmhouse cheese from Monte right bank of the Po River is garlic for which Lazzarina is produced by mixing cow’s milk and Monticelli is the one of the capitals in Italy. goat’s milk; it is then seasoned for two days The most popular variety is called “Piacentino and matured for about a month. Production bianco” and thanks to the particular is typically centred on the Apennines of the environmental, climatic and geophysical Province of Piacenza and the fi nished cheese is conditions of the area, it has a fi rm white fl esh fi rm with a light-coloured rind. that is delightfully fragranced, rich in vitamins and mineral salts and exceptional in terms of aroma and duration (it can be kept from one year to the next).

A GUTTURNIO & ORTRUGO DOC www.piacenzafoodvalley.it Piacenza has always been a land of wines. Gutturnio is certainly the king of local wines. It is a full-bodied red wine with evident tannins and a sharp, clear taste; the expression of a culture and territory. In 1967, Gutturnio was one of the first ten Italian wines to receive DOC recognition. The other wine that symbolizes the territory is the white wine Ortrugo, which has a light straw-yellow colour and a dry, sweetish taste. It is produced in both frizzante and spumante versions, but is also becoming popular as a still wine. Some of the most important wine cellars in the hills of Piacenza have set up an association called “Mosaico Piacentino”. Info: Consorzio di Tutela Vini D.O.C. Colli Piacentini (Consortium to Protect the DOC Wines of the Hills of Piacenza) 13 - Piacenza & surroundings e ce ce ce es are typical es are es and other autumnal produce. The incomplete PalazzoThe incomplete dominates Gotico the main in the Cavalli Piazza town - with centre, square its equestrian statues of Ranuccio and Alessandro by AlbertoFarnese. It was commissioned in 1281 Scoto, of and Ghibelline lord head of the merchants and was planned by local craftsmen.the city, Built in Gothic the style, Lombard recalls traditional its layout town hall buildings of northern with Italy, a low portico windows onto for meetings and solemn French The upper room. lighting the large single a balcony, illustrious was poet Francesco Petrarca once hosted in the main hall. Information OffiInfo: Piacenza Tourist Worth seeing THE GOTICO [email protected] products of theproducts and Apennines of Piacenza in October to several organized events are celebrate them. and truffl there’sIn Bobbio a mushroom The Apennines & autumnal produce produce & autumnal The Apennines Chestnuts,and truffl mushrooms there’sChestnut a Festival.In Castell’Arquato Information Offi Tourist Info: Castell’Arquato In Pecorara there’s an event celebrating truffl market. market. Information OffiInfo: Bobbio Tourist [email protected] [email protected] Worth seeing

A LAND OF CASTLES AND HISTORICAL RESIDENCES All around the territory of the ancient Duchy of Parma and Piacenza there is considerable evidence of the thousand-year old history of this area, a border land and an area of transit. It has countless fortresses, castles, residences, fortifi ed villages and abbeys where noble families, famous mercenaries, patrons of the arts and great spiritual fi gures once lived. These sites have now grouped together and are represented by the Association of Castles of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza. The splendour and atmosphere of the past come back to life in “Remembering Past Flavours”; a packed programme of historical re-enactments, with dinner, held at association castles. Info: www.castellidelducato.it 15 - Piacenza & surroundings Parma & surroundings 17 - Parma & surroundings Events

PARMA HAM FESTIVAL In the municipalities of the Parma ham production zone (Langhirano, Tizzano, Collecchio, Calestano, Lesignano Bagni, Neviano Arduini, Montechiarugolo, Sala Baganza and Felino). From the end of August until 20th September approx.

GASTRONOMIC AUTUMN IN THE TARO VALLEY In the municipalities of the upper Taro Valley (Albareto, Bedonia, Berceto, Borgotaro, Compiano, Tornolo). In September, October and November

NOVEMBER PORC …. LET’S HOPE IT’S FOGGY! Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Zibello, Roccabianca Every weekend in November

To eat •Culatello di Zibello PDO •Parma ham PDO •Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO •Porcini mushrooms of Borgotaro PGI •Salame Cremona PGI •Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO

To drink •Colli di Parma DOC •Emilia IGT •Fortana del Taro IGT Renowned for its art, music and quality of like Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, life, with an old town centre built around Parma ham, boiled shoulder ham and the ancient Piazza Grande, now Piazza salami from Felino. The agricultural Garibaldi, Parma is an elegant, open and food excellence of Parma boasts an and hospitable town. Founded in 183 BC, ancient tradition and various museums a free commune was constituted around in the area are dedicated to it, including 1140 to be followed by the supremacy the Parmigiano-Reggiano Museum in of the Farnese family, the Bourbons Soragna, the Parma Ham Museum in and the Duchy of Marie Louise of Langhirano, the Felino Salami Museum Austria. Its fi nest monuments include the and the Tomato Museum in Collecchio. Romanesque Cathedral, the Baptistery, in pink marble from Verona, the imposing Palazzo della Pilotta and the neoclassical Regio Theatre. The name of Parma is also linked to its renowned culinary tradition, the taste for sophisticated and top-quality food and excellent products

INFO: Parma Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 0521 218889 www.turismo.comune.parma.it www.turismo.parma.it

Don’t miss ANOLINI The princes of Parmesan cuisine, anolini (or cappelletti) are the traditional dish for opening Christmas and New Year lunch. “Anolini” is a term used solely in Parma and refers to a fi lled parcel, shaped like a small disc without no edge, made by superimposing two layers of pasta. The delicious fi lling is a mixture of mature grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, breadcrumbs, egg yolk and the concentrated sauce of beef pot roast, with a little grated nutmeg to taste. 19 - Parma & surroundings to prepare roasts tasty and to prepare try Lastly, cutlets. them various in soup. kinds of mushroom Valley Every in the year in autumn, Taro upper - in the Bedonia, municipalities of Albareto, - Tornolo and Borgotaro,Berceto, Compiano and other mushrooms products local autumnal celebratedare in various festivals. Info: www.stradadelfungo.it lled tortelli or with meat, Nocino is a typical product of Noceto, a small townNocino is a typical product in the of Parma Province the where tradition of making this walnut has always liqueur existed. The the or maybe came from Romans preparation probably even the Celts, who had learnt the art of fermenting walnuts and honey the The age- from Picts in Anglia. old custom in Noceto of making homemade nocino In September, legends. is surrounded by numerous Noceto hosts competition. a nocino and walnut cake Worth trying NOCINO Borgotaro’s porcini mushrooms PGI grow in PGI grow mushrooms Borgotaro’s porcini and Magra the copses of the Valleys of the Taro divided into dark, fourand are species; red, “magnàn” and cold-weather Their mushrooms. characteristics an intense,clean aroma are that mushrooms is not too strong. Porcini Borgotarofrom can be used in various recipes; rawthey and thinly-sliced served excellent are in oil, but also or preserved or fried, grilled with delicious served polenta, tagliatelle, risottos potato-fi and Borgotaro & Porcini mushrooms PGI mushrooms & Porcini Borgotaro Soragna & Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO & Parmigiano-Reggiano Soragna Museum Info: Parmigiano-Reggiano www.museidelcibo.it at a 60° angle in order to highlight the grain. Felino & salami Felino has a museum dedicated to its famous salami. The village, an agricultural and industrial centre in the gently rolling hills of the valley of Info: www.museidelcibo.it the Baganza, owes its fame to the production of salami. Felino salami is prepared using only pork meat - the lean trimmings cut from “coppa”, hams and shoulder hams. This perfect mixture of and lean meat is coarsely minced before adding salt, peppercorns and nitrate. Just before the mixture is packed into the pig’s gut, pepper and garlic crushed in a mortar and dissolved in dry white wine are added. According to tradition, salami should be sliced

A toast DOC On the hills near Parma and in particular, in the valleys of the Baganza and the Parma, “Malvasia di Candia” is grown and used to make the DOC wine “Malvasia dei Colli di Parma”. It can be either a still wine, to accompany meals, or a sparkling dessert wine, with a balanced fl avour, dry or medium-sweet, still or sparkling and low proof. It is ideal with light appetizers or vegetable dishes, but is also good with traditional local salamis and cold cuts, as well as “anolini” or “tortelli”. Info: Consorzio Volontario per la Tutela dei Vini Colli di Parma (Voluntary Consortium to Safeguard the Wines of the Hills of Parma) www.collidiparma.it 21 - Parma & surroundings avour avour rst September. half of Langhirano & ham Langhirano The town is situated close to Parma Torrent factoriesand is surrounded by numerous that Parma and cure process extremely Ham PDO, an cut exportedpopular cold the all over world. 2,000 years of comes from of its success Proof history; Polybius and Strabo Cato the Censor, toall refer farms pig under and haunches kept salt. The Italian for ham “prosciutto” word the (which comes from perexsuctum, Latin literally “dried”) says it all: its slow and patient This geographical curing has ancient origins. the provides for ideal climatic conditions area “drying” or in other the words, natural curing that Parma gives Ham its sweetness, fl and harmony. Info: Consorzio di Parma del Prosciutto Ham Consortium)(Parma www.prosciuttodiparma.com Langhirano has dedicated to this famous food bothproduct a museum and a festival, which is held every year between the end of August and the fi Ham and Salamis from Info: Museum of Parma - www.museidelcibo.it Parma Ham Festival Parma www.festivaldelprosciuttodiparma.com San Secondo & boiled shoulder ham Boiled shoulder ham from San Secondo is a delicious traditional cold cut from Parma produced in a restricted area in the plains around the town; the epicentre of this area is San Secondo. It was already popular during Roman times and was one of the favourite cold cuts of the great Giuseppe Verdi. Boiled shoulder ham or spalla cotta from San Secondo is made using the front shoulder of the pig, tied by hand to give it the shape of a large sphere, and then cured for 25/30 days. It is then cooked for several hours at a very low temperature in water, red wine and vegetables. It is excellent as an appetizer, served alone or with other cold cuts, accompanied by warm homemade bread or traditional torta fritta (a kind of fried dumpling).

Info: San Secondo Parmense Tourist Information Offi ce [email protected]

Worth seeing THE CATHEDRAL THE REGGIA OF COLORNO Dedicated to Our Lady of the Assumption, Parma With its polygonal shape and colonnade, the Reggia of Cathedral is one of the most representative buildings Colorno is the result of various interventions that have of the Padania-Romanesque period. The façade has a taken place over time. Thanks to Phillip of Bourbon, pitched roof, three orders of loggias and three portals. the furnishings were renovated in the second half Inside, it has a nave and two aisles and a transept with of the 18th century. After the unifi cation of Italy, side chapels ending in apses. The internal decorations its art collections and furnishings were lost. Inside, show incredibly interesting sculptural pieces, whilst the most interesting rooms are on the main fl oor, the Deposition by Antelami is walled in the transept. which dates from the Bourbon period - small intimate Between 1525 and 1530, Correggio painted the cupola rooms, elegant decor, large marble fi replaces, inlaid of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary surrounded fl ooring, double swing doors with locks in wrought by Apostles, ephebes and angels carrying musical gilded bronze and ornate stuccoes. Recent upgrading instruments with the patron saints of the city in the work on the park has restored the English garden, pendentives. commissioned by Marie Louise in the fi rst two decades of the 19th century. Info: Parma Tourist Information Offi ce [email protected] Info: Colorno District Offi ce uffi [email protected] 23 - Parma & surroundings avour avour occhetto”. The remaining part,occhetto”. The remaining which is Zibello & culatello Zibello & Culatello is made using the of Zibello PDO which a part of adult pigs, from boneless legs of the to delicious equally make meat is removed “fi more tender and of superior quality, is carefully is carefully tenderand of superior quality, more thentrimmed and shaped sprinkled with salt being left before vigorously, and massaged to rest. It is then stuffed into a pig’s bladder and tied to it its traditional give shape. “pear” Thanks to the climate, gives curing area’s culatello and unmistakeableunique its fl and fragrance. The combination of summer heat and autumnal fogs Culatello mean from to eat. Zibello is exquisite when ready Info: Consorzio di Zibello del Culatello of Zibello Consortium)(Culatello www.consorziodelculatellodizibello.it are Delicious pork salamis and cold cuts celebrated in an event each year in November held between Sissa, porc”, called “November Parmense,Polesine and Roccabianca. Zibello (Info: Info: www.alma.scuolacucina.it) Info: www.alma.scuolacucina.it) www.unisg.it). In its historical hosts the rooms, Reggia ALMA - a top-level, international training for centre ( of Gastronomicand the Sciences, University founded by Slow Food based on an idea Reggio Emilia & surroundings 25 - Reggio Emilia & surroundings Events

SLOW FESTIVAL Felina (Castelnuovo ne’ Monti) Last weekend in July

PUMPKIN FESTIVAL Reggiolo Last weekend in September

To eat

•Emilia Romagna pears PGI •Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO •Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO •Traditional balsamic vinegar of Reggio Emilia PDO

To drink •Colli di Scandiano e di Canossa DOC •Reggiano DOC •Emilia IGT Reggio Emilia is one of the leading cities in is one of the cradles of Parmigiano- terms of the quality of life. With a growing Reggiano cheese and traditional economic sector, thanks to numerous balsamic vinegar. Tortelli fi lled with production activities, it is fi rst in Italy Swiss chard or pumpkin triumph, along in terms of the rate of employment and with erbazzone (chard pie), cold cuts and exports. An art city, it combines ancient pork, with produce from some of the most monuments and contemporary works of highly specialised farms in north Italy. It art such as the bridges of Calatrava, the is possible to organize extraordinary food Spazio Gerra, the works of “Invito a” and itineraries starting in the heart of Reggio exhibitions like “Fotografi a Europea”. It Emilia and heading towards the hills or is the home of the tricolour, the Italian the Po River, to discover the historical national fl ag, created here in 1797 in feats of Matilda of Canossa and in the what is now the town hall and gold medal literary footsteps of Boiardo and Ariosto. of the Resistance. It is rich in history, illustrious fi gures and above all, memory and a collective identity. It has a great food and wine tradition; the Province

INFO: Reggio Emilia Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 0522 451152 www.municipio.re.it/turismo reggioemiliaturismo.provincia.re.it

Don’t miss TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF REGGIO EMILIA PDO Info: Consorzio fra produttori di Aceto Balsamico In a few cases, such as for Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia (Consortium of the of Reggio Emilia PDO, history “is the product”. In fact, Producers of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Reggio for many centuries, this product of the geniality and Emilia) - www.acetobalsamicotradizionale.it passion of man has honoured and characterised the most fortunate and noble tables. It was fi rst written In November, Albinea, in the foothills, celebrates both about in 1046, when the Emperor of Germany Henry balsamic vinegar and “ciccioli”, tasty pork scratchings. III from Piacenza, asked Boniface to give him special vinegar “he had heard was made perfectly there”. During the 12th, 13th and 14th centuries we know for certain of the existence in Reggio Emilia, Scandiano and the main towns under the House of Este of vinegar producers who were part of authentic guilds whose members jealously guarded the secrets of this precious product. Writings about balsamic vinegar increase during the 19th century, with the dowry lists of the noble families of Reggio Emilia. 27 - Reggio Emilia & surroundings avours in Bibbiano at the in avours beginning of Bibbiano & Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO & Parmigiano-Reggiano Bibbiano theis considered Bibbiano cradle of Parmigiano-Reggiano,the most famous (and imitated) Italian cheese in the world. this loves Anyone who in its various cheese forms or after - less mature medium or long- term maturing - shouldn’t miss any of these events; celebratingthe “Sapori Matildici” Fair local fl autumn and the Giorni” “Due fair in Carpineti. informationFor more on Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese check the consortium website. Info: www.parmigiano-reggiano.it La Valle del Tresinaro & sheep Brescello & spongata

To this day, in the Apennines, mutton butchery There’s no dinner worthy of its name that does and cold cut products are still extremely not end with a cake and from this point of popular. The most characteristic aspect is the view, Brescello has an age-old tradition thanks addition of seasoning, always present in these to its famous “spongata”. The history of this preparations to harmonize the typical fl avour cake was lost in the 15th century, but in more of mutton. In restaurants and butcher’s recent times, a letter dated 1951, thanking for shops near Mount Valestra, visitors are likely hospitality received, shows that Giovannino to come across “barzigole” (seasoned meat) Guareschi, Gino Cervi, Fernandel and all the delicacies. Abundantly seasoned, they exalt cast of the fi rst of the fi ve fi lms of the Don the characteristic aromas that are much Camillo saga appreciated this famous cake. sought-after and incredibly rich in history. Spongata is popular because, as well as being In Valestra, in the Baisano area, and as far an unusual dish, the fi lling between the two as Viano, areas that were once Byzantine, layers of rich short-crust pastry calls to mind families still produce an autochthonous the fl avours of yesteryear. Don’t miss a visit product par excellence - mutton ham, which is to the Don Camillo and Peppone Museum that called “violino” (or cushöt) and is particularly houses mementoes and souvenirs linked to the dark and tasty. fi lm saga.

Info: www.appenninoreggiano.it

Worth trying

ERBAZZONE Erbazzone, also called “scarpazùn” in dialect, is a savoury vegetable fl an and a typical gastronomic speciality of Reggio Emilia. It consists in an unleavened pastry base, made using wheat fl our (corn fl our can also be used), water, and salt that is then fi lled with a mixture of Swiss chard and spinach, sautéed with onion and lard and seasoned with garlic, parsley and other herbs. Abundant grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, matured a minimum of 24 months, and breadcrumbs should then be added. It is then closed with another layer of unleavened pastry and baked in the . In the Apennines the recipe adds rice. A consortium has been set up to promote authentic “erbazzone reggiano” and request European Community PGI origin recognition. 29 - Reggio Emilia & surroundings rst sh. The medium-sweet lled fresh pasta,lled fresh fried white meat and sh and even with variety In the . darker it is LAMBRUSCO DOC REGGIANO wild Lambrusco DOC wine comes from Reggiano vines that Cato cultura” refers to in his “De agri in the 2nd century Lambrusco BC. If rosé, Reggiano is ideal for snacks and appetizers such as cold cuts with (excellent “mortadella”), fi erbazzone, with is excellent version delicate local dishes that tend the towards sweetness, whereas sweet version fruitis ideal for accompanying and pastries and biscuits. A toast courses, fi fi delicious with as well as “cappelletti” and “lasagne”, with meat, in particular cold cuts, red pork, boiled withand roast meat served tasty sauces, grilled meat and fried or stewed fi lled lled with lled avour of pumpkin tortelli. pumpkin of avour “cappelletti”, a more noble dish usually served served noble dish usually “cappelletti”, a more everywhere grew Pumpkins at the manor. not only in the cheap), around (and were area vaster Emilia, but also in a Reggio where area tortelli for pumpkin example still are popular, in the Ferrara Mantua and although areas, subject to should point out local variations. We that not everyone the will appreciate sweet fl Another chard Swiss of this typical dish are area tortelli to which Scandiano dedicates a festival thatin November sees local restaurants, inns to win gold, competing and even housewives medals for their or bronze silver tortelli. Info: www.stradaviniesapori.re.it For a large partFor a large of theof Reggio Province particularEmilia (in the pumpkin plains), tortelli, pasta a fresh with dish served butter for represented have or meat sauce, and sage centuries the dish of choice on feast days even for the poorest farmers, meat-fi unlike The plains & tortelliThe plains fi pumpkin and Swiss chard and Swiss pumpkin Worth seeing

Info: Consorzio Promozione e Tutela Vini Reggiani CANOSSA CASTLE (Consortium to Promote and Protect Wines from The strategic position of this castle has made it a Reggio) - www.vinireggiani.it natural stronghold since time immemorial. Canossa became a fortifi ed town of the feud of the Attonidi, Every year in October, in Correggio, Lambrusco is the powerful family of Lombard origin that enjoyed celebrated in “Il Raccontavino” part of San Luca Fair. its period of greatest splendour thanks to Countess Info: Correggio Tourist Information Offi ce Matilda. The most famous image linked to the history [email protected] of the castle is that of Emperor Henry IV, pleading at the foot of the castle and waiting to be received by In Montecchio Emilia, 30 km from Reggio, it is possible Pope Gregory VII in January 1077. After the death of to visit a wine museum dedicated to Lambrusco, “from Matilda, in 1115 the castle began a period of decline the countryside to the wine cellar” hosted at “Tenuta” marked by its destruction in 1255 at the hands of the Rampata Farm. commune of Reggio. In 1557, at the head of 5,000 foot soldiers and 800 horsemen, Ottavio Farnese Info: Wine Museum attacked the fortress with cannon fi re and destroyed www.acetaiamedici.it it again. The castle now houses a small, recently- renovated National Museum that houses, amongst 31 - Reggio Emilia & surroundings x). the dotted (the around village lms are owned by Peppone, as well as lots of videocassettes, as well as lots of owned by Peppone, books Other and food and wine products. places made famous by the fi with all, the and, above bell, the church square large its bell tower and Crucifi Museum Info: Don Camillo & Peppone [email protected] ce of the Lands of Matilda lms based on the famous tales of Giovannino The lower Reggio area provided the provided setting for all area The lower Reggio the fi In fact,Guareschi. is home to the Brescello Don which is housed in an Museum, Camillo and Peppone austere building, a former Benedictine monastery, It wasclose to Piazza Maggiore. founded in 1989 thanks of enthusiasts. to a group The museum contains to themementoes the linked and souvenirs from saga: bicycle that to belonged Fernandel, to the motorbike BRESCELLO other the baptismal font items, dating from a precious century.12th Information OffiInfo: Tourist di Canossa ([email protected] - di Canossa ([email protected] www.matildedicanossa.it) Modena & surroundings 33 - Modena & surroundings Events

HUMAN DRAUGHTS Castelvetro 2nd weekend in September

SHOWCASES, MOTORS AND BALSAMIC FLAVOURS Spilamberto 1st weekend in October

To eat

• Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PGI • Cotechino Modena PGI • Emilia Romagna pears PGI • Modena ham PDO • Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO • Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO • Sour cherries of Modena PGI • Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO • Zampone Modena PGI

To drink

• Bianco di Castelfranco Emilia IGT • Emilia IGT • Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC • Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC • Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC • Modena or di Modena DOC • Reno DOC Modena began as the Roman city of Este. Modena is famous for its unique Mutina and it has remains of civilizations selection of delicatessen foods like ranging from the Palaeolithic to the balsamic vinegar, cold cuts, zampone Bronze Age; the latter include the now and cotechino, tigelle, gnocchi fritti (fried famous “terramare”, typical villages dumplings) and borlengho (literally “the founded in Emilia around the middle of food of the poor”). the second millennium. The industrial and cultural motoring heritage of the In Maranello - home of the automobile area near Modena, that has earned it manufacturer Ferrari - the “Taste Grand the name the “Land of Engines”, boasts Prix” is held in October, offering a perfect companies such as Ferrari, Maserati, combination of excellent fl avours typical Pagani Automobili, B.G. Engineering, of Modena and the red racing cars that De Tomaso and Bugatti. Modena is make the whole world dream. also synonymous with good food and eating well has been handed down from Info: Terra di Motori Infopoint a sophisticated gastronomic culture that [email protected] fl ourished on the tables of the nobility www.motorvalley.it and the exclusive court of the Dukes of INFO: Modena Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 059 2032660 turismo.comune.modena.it www.appenninomodenese.net

Don’t miss COTECHINO AND ZAMPONE PGI “Cotechino” and “zampone” are typical products of Modena. They consist in a mixture of lean meat, fat and pork rind with the addition of salt, pepper and other spices; to make cotechino the mixture is stuffed into a natural or artifi cial gut, whilst to make zampone it is stuffed into the skin of the pig’s front trotter, which also gives it its shape. Both are slow cooked in boiling water and traditionally served with lentils or mashed potatoes. 35 - Modena & surroundings avour and fragrance.avour In June, dark cherries rst and continues ripens Bigarreau” “Durone Vignola & cherries Vignola is famous for its throughout Europe when thecherries.May begins in Production fi with the “Mora di Vignola”cherry, a variety with the best characteristicsterms in of fl the the I” and “Nero like traditional “Anella” late varietiesripen, whereas include the “Nero II” and “Ciliegione” with nutritional excellent properties. Fruit The Cherry, Plum and Typical of Vignola Consortium to was set up in 1964 cherry local and protect promote varieties. Info: www.cittacastelliciliegi.it (Consortium of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena) Balsamic Vinegar (Consortium of Traditional www.balsamico.it Spilamberto is the capital and it of balsamic vinegar has a museum dedicated to it. (Traditional Info: Museo del Balsamico Tradizionale Museum) Balsamic Vinegar [email protected] SpilambertoIn October, also hosts events celebrating and otherbalsamic vinegar products. Info: www.cittacastelliciliegi.it Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, which has recently is another of PGI recognition, typical product gained this and is popular both area in Italy the and all over world. It is obtained boiled must, from concentrated cation derived from from cation derived lled with and meat Since time immemorial, traditional of vinegar balsamic the and history culture Modena PDO has represented of Modena. In fact, its existence is due to the particular pedoclimatic characteristics the of territory, along with the skills and know-how Traditional of producers. is obtainedbalsamic vinegar grape must from that is by slow acetifi matured cooked, Worth trying TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF MODENA PDO natural fermentation and gradualconcentration, and then long time in a series of for aged an extremely small wood barrels (called “batteries”) of decreasing withoutsize and volume the any aromatic addition of substances. to made documents refer vinegar Various using must in the ancient Duchy of Este as early as the century.18th di Modena Info: Consorzio Balsamico Tradizionale Aceto Castelfranco Emilia & tortellini Emilia Castelfranco of tortelliniThe origin has always been contended and Bologna; it seems by Modena the Castelfrancofrom initially came dish theEmilia (at time partof the territory to was and according of Bologna) legend, by Venus’ inspired by an innkeeper created the historical origins bellybutton. However, of tortellini been lost have These in time. small pasta fi parcels, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese then cooked in broth (traditionally the capon broth) are symbol of the Italy. In cuisine of Emilia all over Castelfranco Emilia, they celebrated are in the traditional Feast of San Nicola, in the second week of September. Zocca & borlengo This is a typical dish of the Apennines of Modena, whose origins are contended by the villages of Zocca, Montombraro, Guiglia and Vignola. It is a type of thin bread, similar in consistency to a pancake. The dough is very simple and made using water, fl our, eggs and salt. It is served piping hot, folded into quarters and seasoned with “cunza”, a mixture of pancetta, lard, garlic and rosemary that encloses all the fl avours of this land. Borlengo is “sociable” food and naturally, every village fête serves it. In Guiglia, in May, there’s even a Borlengo Festival. To promote and hand down the “culture of borlengo” a school has been set up called the “Compagnia della Cunza” and there’s even a borlengo workshop in di Zocca (Info: Tel. +39 059 985584). Info: Museo del Castagno e Museo-Laboratorio del Borlengo (Chestnut Museum and Borlengo Museum-Workshop) Tel. +39 340 0073159 Mobile +39 340 0073159 www.museodelcastagno.promappennino.it

must and wine vinegar based on a process that is decidedly quicker than that used for traditional balsamic vinegar. The musts used to produce it come exclusively from grapes grown in Emilia Romagna. The product can even be aged for more than 3 years.

Info: www.consorziobalsamico.it 37 - Modena & surroundings (Consortium of Modenese Brand of the Historical Lambrusco Wines) - www.lambrusco.net grapes and Lambrusco celebrated are in In September, festival village a huge in Castelvetro. Info: www.cittacastelliciliegi.it Lambrusco the di Modena comes from “labrusca” vine, which was known to both theEtruscans and Cultura” Cato in the Agri mentions it in “De Romans. 2nd century ad remedium a “singulare BC calling it (“a unique in morbis corporumrefrigerandos ardores” for is evidence lowering a fever”).remedy There of it being taken to the ducal wine cellars on 29 it was and half a century already October 1693 later, popular at court.extremely In his monumental work “Principali vitigni di vino coltivati in Italia” (on the in Italy),main vines grown Italo Cosmo describes three different types of Lambrusco vines in Modena called Grasparossa, Salamino and Sorbara, the latter toof which he judged be the most important because theit produced best wine. Modenesi dei Lambruschi Storico Info: Consorzio Marchio A toast LAMBRUSCO OF MODENA DOC WINES & tigella The Apennines and Parmigiano- Reggiano PDO “Gnocco fritto”, a type of fried dumpling, is made from dough similar to bread dough, The Apennines of Modena are one of the most traditionally fried in lard and served with famous areas for the production of Parmigiano- cold cuts, cheeses or marmalade. Popular Reggiano cheese, probably the best-known throughout the area, it was created as a Italian cheese in the world. In October, in substitute for bread and in the countryside Lama Mocogno, the king of cheeses is the star was once eaten for breakfast or as a mid- of an event called “Parmigiano-Reggiano da morning snack for farmers who had been up gustare”. since dawn. Now every village fête includes Info: www.appenninomodenese.net it on its menu. Another typical dish of the Modena area is “tigella” or “crescentina”, traditional mountain bread cooked over wood in a fi replace between two clay discs. It is then fi lled with cold cuts, soft cheeses or a mixture of lard and rosemary. Visit the permanent exhibition on the tigella at the visitors’ centre of Sassi di Roccamalatina Park in Samone di Guiglia. Info: Museo delle Tigelle (Tigella Museum) [email protected]

Worth seeing

CARPI AND THE LOWER MODENA AREA THE CATHEDRAL AND GHIRLANDINA In the lower part of the Province of Modena, which is one of the most important is crossed by the Secchia and Panaro Rivers, the land monuments of the Romanesque period. The art of around the Renaissance town of Carpi is extremely Lanfranco, Wiligelmo and then the Campionesi Masters rich. Indeed, it is the cradle of Sorbara and Salamino contributed enormously to making this building a di Santa Croce Lambrusco wines, as well as a treasure place for practicing and spreading the faith. It has trove of other typical products and gastronomic a nave with two aisles and outside, has an elegant delicacies, like traditional balsamic vinegar of continuous portico with triple round arches from the Modena, Parmesan cheese, traditional cold cuts, fruit façade to the apse. The large rose window and two and traditional cakes. side portals on the façade, as well as the wonderful “Regia Door” on the south side, are by the Campionesi Info: Terre d’Argine Tourist Information Offi ce Masters who, after Lanfranco, worked in Modena until [email protected] around 1230. Building work on the characteristic “Ghirlandina” Tower, which is just over 86 metres high, began in 1100 and was completed in 1309 under the direction of Enrico da Campione. The spire was added later and completed in 1587. 39 - Modena & surroundings ce Info: Modena Tourist Information OffiInfo: Modena Tourist [email protected] Bologna & surroundings 41 - Bologna & surroundings Events

FLAVOUR WEEKENDS IN BOLOGNA Bologna Weekends in October

TARTUFESTA IN THE APENNINES OF BOLOGNA Municipalities in the Apennines of Bologna Weekends in October and November

BACCANALE Imola First three weekends in November

To eat •Emilia Romagna pears PGI •Green asparagus of Altedo PGI •Marrons of Castel del Rio PGI •Mortadella Bologna PGI •Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese PDO •Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI •Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO •Shallots of Romagna PGI •White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI

To drink

• di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG •Bianco del Sillaro IGT •Colli Bolognesi DOC •Colli di Imola DOC •Colli Imolesi IGT •Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC •Emilia IGT •Reno DOC •Sangiovese di Romagna and di Romagna DOC Bologna is the main city in Emilia Romagna, Bologna’s gastronomic fame dates back a crossroads between the north and south of to the Middle Ages, but its traditions are the Italian peninsula. Initially an Etruscan closely linked to the university; the mix of then a Gallic town, it was also a Roman students from all over Italy and Europe colony and municipality and became a and professors of different nationalities free commune during the Middle Ages. The helped to enrich the city’s gastronomic world’s fi rst university was founded between culture. Bologna, the fat thus goes hand-in- its walls in the 11th century. The charming hand with so-called Bologna, the learned. old town centre has numerous buildings Don’t miss the Archaeological Municipal and churches that house a wealth of works Museum, Diocesan Museum and the brand of art, bearing witness to the cultural new modern art museum (MamBO), as importance of Bologna over the centuries. well as the Giorgio Morandi Museum and A walk under the almost 40 km of porticoes the studio-house of this great 20th-century that adorn its streets, mean visitors can artist. enjoy city life, shop in prestigious boutiques or small or large markets and generally get to know its many aspects. Bologna is rich in art and history, a delightful place to visit and densely packed with culture.

INFO: Bologna Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 051 239660 - 251947 - 6472113 www.bolognaturismo.info

Don’t miss

MORTADELLA BOLOGNA PGI Mouth-watering and delicious, Mortadella Bologna PGI boasts an ancient history. Its roots date back to the 16th century and there are increasing numbers of historical-literary references associated to this product. Mortadella Bologna PGI, made from pure pork, is a cooked cold cut that is pink, lightly spiced and has an intense fragrance. Once cut, the surface is velvety and a uniform pink colour; it is fragrant, with a delicate taste. A festival called “Mortadella Please” is held every October in Zola Predosa, on the hills near Bologna. Info: Zola Predosa Tourist Information Offi ce [email protected] 43 - Bologna & surroundings ce Castel San Pietro Terme & honey Terme San Pietro Castel the Bologna, hills near At footthe of green on the and Romagna, between Emilia border As well as softis Castel Terme. San Pietro and such as “squacquerone” cheeses, “Castel the San Pietro”, town is famous for In fact, extra-virgin honey. its excellent a honey observatory that has been set up here together Italiangroups apiarian institutions has been entrusted and and organizations and by ISMEA (Institute Research of Studies, Information to carry Markets) Agricultural on out a monthly survey of the state of honey and wholesale prices. production Information Offi Tourist Pietro San Info: Castel - www.stradaviniesapori.it [email protected] In Bologna, at the National Apiculture Institute (80, Via di Saliceto), it is possible to visit a museum dedicated to honey and bees; a form of farming that has always been practiced in Emilia Romagna. e di apicoltura ricerca di C.R.A. Unità bachicoltura and Silkworm Research (Apiculture Breeding Unit) [email protected] ce our and water, our and water, ce [email protected] in many shops that pasta specialize in fresh where handmade pasta - the“sfogline” women who make - work. The best each year to compete test their skills (or “Golden d’Oro” in an event called “Il Matterello Enzo in the Pin”) at Palazzo old town.Rolling Re Information OffiInfo: Bologna Tourist touristoffi Bologna is famous for its tagliatelle with Bolognese meat sauce, tortellini and all kinds of traditional, handmade pasta. visitors can buy the All over city, handmade pasta, made using eggs, fl Info: Imola Tourist Information Offi Tourist Info: Imola [email protected] www.stradaviniesapori.it Imola & mutton Imola & TAGLIATELLE & HOMEMADE PASTA & HOMEMADE TAGLIATELLE Altedo & green asparagus PGI The “green prince” of Altedo, a small town between Bologna and Ferrara, is asparagus. In 1923 some farmers from Altedo travelled to Nantes in France, returning with clear technical notions about asparagus. Subsequently, several important cooperatives were set up to promote and market this vegetable. Every year, in mid-May, Altedo hosts an asparagus festival. Another important place for this spring delicacy is Mesola, in the province of Ferrara, where an Asparagus Fair is held between the end of April and early May.

Worth trying BOLOGNA POTATOES AND TRUFFLES that covers the history of its diffusion from the 17th The Bologna area has always been famous for century to the present day. producing top-quality potatoes. Between the 60s and Info: Museo della Patata (Potato Museum) 70s, the variety that became popular here was the [email protected] “Primura”, selected in Holland and excellent for all kinds of uses. In the mid-70s, the fi rst and as yet only As well as potatoes, Bologna is famous for another “Potato Exchange” was founded in order to set potato tuber, the fragrant truffl e “dug up” in autumn in the prices in the fi eld and the processing and packaging woods around the city. The truffl e is the king of the warehouses. In 2002, the idea was fi rst forwarded for autumn kitchen and is celebrated in various events the Bologna Potato PDO, which is now almost a reality. such as “Tartufesta” held in various towns in the It is oval, uniform, with smooth, light-coloured skin Apennines and the White Truffl e Festival of Savigno and fi rm, straw-yellow fl esh and extraordinary for all and the Hills of Bologna. culinary uses. In September, the Bologna potato is celebrated in Info: [email protected] various events. “Patata in Bo” involves all the city’s restaurants and numerous shops, whilst on the Apennines a potato festival is held in Tolè, an outlying hamlet of Vergato. In Budrio, on the plains, there is a Potato Museum 45 - Bologna & surroundings and ce of the Municipality of Castel del Rio of Castel ce of the Municipality our made from dried marrons is used toour made from exes and a delicate, fruity It is dryexes bouquet. and Info: Consorzio Vini Colli Bolognesi Pignoletto is the of the name autochthonous vine thisused to delicious and exclusive unique, make thewine; it is rightly considered “King of the Hills Pliny theof Bologna”. Even Elder mentions a wine called “pino lieto” in his “Naturalis Historia”. It is light straw-yellow a lovely, colour with pale green refl it is fairlywith good acidity, persistent and can be either sparkling or still. As it is delicate and light it is as an aperitif or for the meal. It is also excellent entire ideal with cheeses and tortellini white meats, fresh in thebroth! At end of September there is an exhibition theof wines from hills in Bologna with tastings and other events. (Consortium of the Wines of the Hills of Bologna) www.collibolognesi.it A toast PIGNOLETTO DOC Castel del Rio & marrons del Rio PGI Castel of CastelThe cuisine Rio is based on del the of three nuances different gastronomic traditions that territory only a border boasts. is the excellence par local product However, the Castel normal del Rio marron. It is unlike “chestnuts” its size and sweeter taste given and fragrance. used boiled marronsare Pureed a typical local dish, “capaltéz”, to prepare and fl “castagnaccio” prepare (chestnut and cake) “sweet polenta”. of Palazzo The rooms Alidosi well worthhouse a delightful museum visiting 0542 95906) +39 (Chestnut Museum, Tel. in Octoberthe town holds a chestnut festival. Info: Offi [email protected] www.stradaviniesapori.it Worth seeing THE EMILIA ROMAGNA WINE CELLAR The Regional Wine Cellar of Emilia Romagna, housed in the renovated cellars of the Sforzesca Fortress in the mediaeval village of Dozza, has been working since 1978 to promote appreciation of the wines of Emilia Romagna in Italy and worldwide. The permanent exhibition has over 800 labels on display and for sale from about 200 member producers. The wine bar also organizes interesting wine-tasting events to raise awareness of the inebriating world of wine. An event called “Wine Forum” is held the last week of May. Info: www.enotecaemiliaromagna.it

MEDIAEVAL BOLOGNA 47 - Bologna & surroundings cent Medicina Medicina & onions Medicina of the square main theAs early as 1960s, small townMedicina, a in the Bolognese lower was forarea, the setting benchmark market the in the for price onion production entire The town of Bologna. is also where Province the Confraternity of the Magnifi Onion was founded and thetraditional Medicina onion fair offers visitors an event todedicated this entirely vegetable. Info: www.stradaviniesapori.it ce [email protected] touristoffi Over theOver centuries, the of Bologna old town centre tohas managed retain the colours, proportions and starting of the Ages; Middle architecture withthe houses with still towers, which are a symbol of the Don’t miss the views of thecity. rooftops of Bologna the monumental thefrom top of the Asinelli Tower, known as theof the of complex Basilica 7 churches, Santo Stefano, and the old Mediaeval that adds market a touch of colour thanks to streets, its narrow stalls with and the food products chatter of the traders. Information OffiInfo: Bologna Tourist Ferrara & surroundings 49 - Ferrara & surroundings Events

RICE DAYS Jolanda di Savoia End of August

EEL FESTIVAL Comacchio First two weekends in October

To eat

•Coppia Ferrarese PGI •Emilia Romagna pears PGI •Green asparagus of Altedo PGI •Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI •Rice from the Po Delta PGI •Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO

To drink

•Emilia IGT •Bosco Eliceo DOC

The city of Ferrara gained considerable is a pleasure for the eyes and the palate. prestige under the House of Este and to The cuisine of Ferrara still combines the this day is a fi ne example of balance and strong fl avour of salama da sugo with harmony. The spirit of the Renaissance the delicacy of mashed potato and the can be seen throughout, on the streets of sweet crust of pasticcio ferrarese encloses the city peppered with dozens of buildings the fragrance of meat and macaroni and monumental churches, in the cloisters in béchamel sauce. An extraordinary and gardens and in the many parks and example of the sweet-and-sour cuisine gardens. Since 1995, the old town centre inherited from the court of the House of of Ferrara has been a UNESCO World Este are pumpkin-fi lled pasta parcels Heritage Site as an “admirable example (called “cappellacci”), served with butter of a city planned in the Renaissance whose and sage or meat sauce. Pampapato is a old town centre is still intact.” Alongside traditional cake made using almonds and its historical and cultural heritage, the candied fruit, but a place of honour goes court of the House of Este left Ferrara to local bread, with the famous “coppia” an excellent culinary tradition. Sweet - a temptation diffi cult to resist. and savoury fl avours combine, the taste shown in preparing and serving dishes

INFO: Ferrara Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 0532 209370 - 299303 www.ferrarainfo.com - www.ferraraterraeacqua.it

Don’t miss COPPIA FERRARESE Info: www.ferrarainfo.com 51 - Ferrara & surroundings elds. rmation rmed by accounting Voghiera & garlic Voghiera as an important of garlic The presence product is confi of Voghiera documents dating back to 1928 and referring and dating back todocuments 1928 to the trade with and onions” of “garlic 60% of several countries. Over European the from Ferraragarlic is produced area within It is a the of Voghiera. municipality good, uniform size and bright white in colour. Thanks to collaboration with the University of Ferrara, the and commodity biomolecular characteristics been of thehave product outlined and thetop three varieties produced testedin the are area in experimental fi Garlic from Voghiera is awaiting confi Voghiera Garlic from a in summer, Everyof PDO recognition. year, Garlic Festival is held here. Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it rst documents to the mention rice in Ferrara Galeazzo two letters Duke are from area whilstMaria Sforza the “Diario dated 1475, Ferrarese” by Ludovico Muratori mentions rice wasthat sold in Ferrara the “in year 1495 at only four shows a pound”, which quattrini thatwas high local production extremely and that systematically rice was grown in the lands governed by the Este. House of Rice was a constant in the presence agricultural landscape of the Delta Po it became the where of the land. The nature on reclaimed main crop became a crucial land reclaimed factor in the agricultural the use of times, same. In recent mechanization and the of new introduction varieties made it possible to continue have rice. Although scale, on a smaller growing this system is technically advanced makes and it possible to this earn from than more from other crops. Delta del Po del Info: Associazione Risicoltori Delta) (Association of Rice Growers’ of the Po www.risodeltadelpo.it The Po Delta & rice PGI Delta & rice The Po The fi Comacchio & eels For the past ten years, Comacchio has dedicated two weekends in October to the “queen of the Eel is not only a delicious protagonist of the valleys” with an Eel Festival; an event that has cuisine of the lower Ferrara area and Comacchio become a cornerstone of tradition. in particular. In this damp environment, once Info: Comacchio Tourist Information Offi ce hostile to man, it has become the main source [email protected] of sustenance. In any case, eels remain a typical speciality of Comacchio that can be eaten in various ways: from delicate risotto made with eel-brodetto “a bec d’asan” (literally “made in a hurry”), accompanied by toasted polenta. Amongst the 48 different eel dishes possible, there are some highly sophisticated options like sweet-and-sour eel chops, worthy of nouvelle cuisine. However, nothing equals the intense fragrance that it releases when grilled. Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it

Near Comacchio, an old building previously used for processing fi sh now houses a museum where it is possible to see how eels are marinated and then taste this unmistakeable dish. The “Manifattura dei Marinati” museum is also a shop where visitors can buy tinned marinated eels, along with other local fi sh specialities.

Info: Museo dell’Anguilla “Manifattura dei Marinati” (Manifattura dei Marinati Eel Museum) www.parcodeltapo.it

Worth trying SALAMA DA SUGO Info: Poggio Renatico Proloco Offi ce The origins of “salama da sugo” seem to date back to Tel. + 39 0532 209370. the times of the House of Este. The main course of ducal dinners, it became popular amongst farmers in In July, it is also celebrated in a popular festival in Ferrara and then a dish for important occasions. Over Buonacompra, a small village near Cento. time, cooking this “sausage” has become an authentic Info: Cento Tourist Information Offi ce ritual. It is fi rst wrapped in a cloth and then hung over [email protected] a wooden stick placed diagonally across the top of a pan full of water, so that this precious product never even skims the bottom or sides. After 6 hours, the external casing is removed and the sausage is cut into slices and placed on a soft bed of mashed potato. Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it

Between September and November, the village of Madonna dei Boschi di Poggio Renatico hosts a tradition festival celebrating this local speciality. 53 - Ferrara & surroundings sh, as well as cotechino, sh soups, eel and shellfi the famous salama da sugo and traditional local pasta dishes. Info: Consorzio Vini DOC Bosco Eliceo (Consortium of Bosco Eliceo DOC Wines) www.vinidellesabbie.com The wines of Ferrara on thin, sandy soil. The grow on sand also grapes grown peculiarity of wines from lies in the of the integrity still plant; the vines have on the whole not been grafted. Fortana, a ruby-red wine that or less intense, has a salty be more can when young, turning and is medium-sweet bouquet drier with It is moderately age. tannic and acidulous and can be either still or sparkling. It is ideal served with fi A toast DOC FORTANA Worth seeing Info: Codigoro - Pomposa Abbey Tourist Information Offi ce - [email protected] THE HERCULEAN ADDITION Info: Ferrara Tourist Information Offi ce [email protected] 55 - Ferrara & surroundings rm and sweet, esh thatesh is fi making them a delicious ingredient of local making themdelicious ingredient a cuisine. Info: www.stradaviniesaporiferrara.it Ostellato & pumpkin & pumpkin Ostellato Ostellato,Every the near November, year in DeltaPo of Ferrara, celebrates pumpkins; fruit thata generous is at its best in the valleys of the Mezzano, the last area large of marshland of the lower Ferrara to be area Here afterreclaimed War. the Second World called “violina”, have the which are pumpkins, orange fl compact ce Argenta & brazadela Argenta only made for once special were Doughnuts theoccasions; term “brazadela” from derives the fact they onto slipped the were arm. In fact, sellers carried several doughnuts threaded onto their arms, whilst customers slipped them onto their right arm so they could pour wine with the left. In the past, it was for only made it special occasions because was there rich and was little money for buying chocolate other and sweets. Information Offi Tourist Info: Argenta [email protected] Ravenna & surroundings 57 - Ravenna & surroundings Events

ENOLOGICA AND EXHIBITION OF TYPICAL PRODUCTS OF ROMAGNA Faenza 3rd weekend in November

4 FESTIVALS FOR 3 HILLS: PORK DELICACIES, VOLPINA PEAR AND MATURE CHEESE FESTIVAL, TRUFFLE FESTIVAL, OLIVE TREE AND FESTIVAL Brisighella Sundays in November

To eat •Brisighella extra-vergin olive oil PDO •Emilia Romagna pears PGI •Grana Padano PDO •Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI •Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO •Shallots of Romagna PGI •White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI

To drink •Albana di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG •Bosco Eliceo DOC •Cagnina di Romagna DOC •Colli di Faenza DOC •Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC •Pagadebit di Romagna DOC •Ravenna IGT •Sangiovese di Romagna e Trebbiano di Romagna DOC Ravenna is an extraordinary treasure The Province of Ravenna has a rich trove of art, history and culture. It is a agricultural tradition, from cereal city with ancient origins and a glorious growing and fruit farming in the plains past and was three times a capital city; around the towns of Lugo, Russi and of the Western Roman Empire, of the Massalombarda, to peaches, nectarines Empire of Theodore, King of the Goths, and kiwis near Faenza, where the hills and of the Byzantine Empire of Europe. are also dedicated to olive growing, to Its basilicas and baptisteries still house a farming (mutton and “mora romagnola” wealth of mosaics dating from the 5th - breed pigs) and wine growing and 6th centuries and eight monuments in the production. The Adriatic coast of city are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Ravenna has a number of resorts, like It has numerous cycle paths, making it Marina di Ravenna, Cervia and Milano easy to reach any part of it, including Marittima, where fi sh cuisine reigns, Teodorico Park, the planetarium, in particular oily fi sh such as sardines, the Garden of Forgotten Herbs or the anchovies and mackerel, typical of the Basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe. The upper Adriatic and with extraordinary city has restaurants serving traditional nutritional properties. The pine forests local dishes - from the valleys to the and marshlands on the coastal strip are Adriatic Sea. The most popular dishes part of the Po River Delta Park, an area are cheese-fi lled cappelletti, passatelli, of extraordinary environmental value grilled meats, grilled oily fi sh and for and one of the largest and most important more curious palates, frogs and eels. in Europe.

INFO: Ravenna Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 0544 35404 - 35755 www.turismo.ravenna.it ravennaintorno.provincia.ra.it 59 - Ravenna & surroundings sh and exes exes and avour. It is excellent is excellent It avour. tones, sharp Oil PDO has a Brisighella Olive bitterand pleasantly fl Brisighella & extra-virgin olive oil PDO oil PDO olive & extra-virgin Brisighella withEmerald golden refl green for vegetablesas a dressing and fi to prepare sauces. The area covered by the covered sauces. The area to prepare has certaindenomination “Brisighella” characteristics that different are to the rest of thethe In particular, range region. of varieties consists variety primarily in a single called the “Nostrana Brisighella”, which is not found di in other PDO Brisighella extra-virgin regions. oil mustolive using a ratio be made of not less than 90% of the variety olive “Nostrana di Brisighella”. Info: www.terredifaenza.it oil Brisighella olive theAt end of November, is celebrated in the Oil and Olive town’s Olive Festival to and it is also possible visit an open- oil museum here. air olive Info: Museo all’aperto (Outdoor dell’olio d’oliva Oil Museum) - [email protected] Olive Salt has always been the white gold of this famous seaside resort on the coast. Adriatic always It has been known as “sweet” salt due to the limited a slightly bitter of bitter salts, which give presence aftertaste that is less pleasant to taste. Production as a so it can be presented has now been recovered traditional of the product history of Cervia and its culinary Cervia Sweet salt from use can be promoted. and there is a Slow Food presidia is one of the 195 museum dedicated to it well worth visiting. Info: Museo del Sale di Cervia (Cervia Salt Museum) www.turismo.comunecervia.it Don’t miss MARSHES THE CERVIA SALT Casola Valsenio & the herb garden Info: The Herb Garden [email protected] Info: Casola Valsenio Tourist Information Offi ce [email protected] 61 - Ravenna & surroundings Worth trying AND FISH SOUP Bagnacavallo & Bursòn & Bursòn Bagnacavallo Ancient varieties “Bursòn” of grapes like been rediscovered or “Centesimino” have by wine cellars particularly interested in tradition and the territory. varieties These of autochthonouscelebrated grapes are in festivals “Figli di un Bacco and events like of a Lesser Bacchus”) (“Children Minore” in Bagnacavallo, an art seventeen city with a beautiful Faenza from kilometres rst to mediaeval theold town centre, fi Bursòn grapes. relaunch Info: www.romagnadeste.it Brisighella & its specialities Brisighella is an ancient mediaeval spa town in the Lamone Valley, between Ravenna and Florence, which is rich in architectural beauty, history and traditions. Here in July, mediaeval festivals are held and in autumn there are a series of events linked to the wealth of the local gastronomic offer, in particular the superior meats of the “mora romagnola” breed of pigs and mutton, without forgetting truffl es, “volpina” pears and “moretto” artichokes; the latter a rustic variety that has undergone no genetic modifi cation. It is not just an ordinary artichoke therefore, but an authentic gastronomic rarity that the town dedicates a whole day to in the “Moretto Artichoke Festival”. Info: Brisighella Tourist Information Offi ce [email protected]

A toast Worth seeing THE WINES OF FAENZA RAVENNA AND FORGOTTEN HERBS The DOC wines of the hills of Faenza can be divided Between Piazza Arcivescovado and Piazza Kennedy, into several types, including Albana, Sangiovese and hidden behind imposing walls, but open to the Trebbiano. In its passita form (with grapes left to public is a delightful little garden. The Garden of dry in the wine cellar) Albana DOCG, made from an Forgotten Herbs is a place where history and nature autochthonous vine of Romagna, is an extraordinary meet to offer city dwellers and tourists an alternative dessert wine to accompany cakes or biscuits, as destination for their walks. The fl owerbeds are full of well as mature cheeses. Amongst red wines, classic herbs recovered from prescription books belonging Sangiovese di Romagna triumphs and is a worthy to apothecaries and famous herbs used daily in the accompaniment for “cappelletti”, grilled and roast Mediterranean diet. The garden is the ideal place for meats and cold cuts. Wines from the province are relaxing and enjoying this unusual botanical delight. celebrated in various events in November, including Info: Giardino Rasponi (Rasponi Gardens) “Giovinbacco in Festa” in Ravenna and “Enologica” in Piazzetta Ragazzini Severino - Ravenna Faenza. Tel. +39 0544 34764 Info: www.stradadelsangiovese.it 63 - Ravenna & surroundings ce avour recall that of onions. that recall of onions. avour Riolo Terme & shallot of & shallot Riolo Terme PGI Romagna vegetableThis typical the of of Province in particularRavenna, the municipalities of in shape to is similar but garlic, Riolo Terme, its tastefl and These shallots are grown without using without using grown These shallots are or fertilizers.chemical treatments They are throughhybridization or not reproduced via original manipulation, but only genetic maintained rigorously bulbs that have the for almost complement same genetic three versatile extremely are millennia. Shallots be used as a base for in cuisine and can ng or as a key soups, stuffi sauces, preparing ham sauce. of meat and ingredient ce Information Offi Tourist Info: Riolo Terme [email protected] Info: Ravenna Tourist Information Offi Tourist Info: Ravenna [email protected] [email protected] rst rst half of guration. The basilica is owers, surmounted by a symbolic sheep in ock symbolized by twelve eld full of fl the 6th century fi Apollinare, dedicated and to St. The façadebishop of Ravenna. portico, has a under marbles and inscriptions taken which there are from marble jambs The main door has Greek the church. The interior stilland architrave. retains the charm of its original splendour with of twelve two rows diagonally-veined marble columns. The apse Greek occupied by theconch is completely singular portrayal his arms Apollinare, in a praying position, of St. surrounded by his fl at the heart environmental interest of great of an area in the Delta Po Park. The basilica of Sant’Apollinare in Classe, with its world- The basilica of Sant’Apollinare famous from mosaics, is situated about 5 kilometres It wasthe of Ravenna. built in the centre fi fi a huge BASILICA OF SANT’APOLLINARE IN CLASSE BASILICA OF SANT’APOLLINARE representation of the Transfi Forlì Cesena & surroundings 65 - Forlì Cesena & surroundings Events

WINES AND FLAVOURS ON THE STREETS OF BERTINORO AND LONGIANO Bertinoro - mid-June Longiano - mid-July

AUTUMN IN CESENATICO - FISH CELEBRATES Cesenatico Late October - early November

To eat •Extra-virgin olive oil of the Hills of Romagna PDO •Fossa Cheese from Sogliano PDO •Peaches and nectarines of Romagna PGI •Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO •Shallots of Romagna PGI •White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI

To drink •Albana di Romagna and Romagna Albana Spumante DOCG •Cagnina di Romagna DOC •Colli di Romagna Centrale DOC •Forlì IGT •Pagadebit di Romagna DOC •Rubicone IGT •Sangiovese di Romagna e Trebbiano di Romagna DOC The city of Forlì owes its name to the Crossed by the Via Emilia, Cesena is a Roman place name Forum Livii. The city with a lively economy and a splendid city’s central position along the Via town centre that over the years has been Emilia has marked its history, making it a returned to its former splendour and is fl ourishing trade centre between the hills, a popular place for citizens and tourists the plain and the nearby sea, contended to meet. Cesena draws its strength from and conquered by outsiders. The old town its territory and warm and welcoming centre has a charming irregular shape, people who have skilfully combined an with the streets radiating out from central agricultural vocation with modernity; Piazza Saffi before broadening into wide the beauty of the city is tangible outside routes of communication. The city has the old town too. In fact, in spring always held a special place for culture, the hills are dotted with peach and history and tradition. The Province of cherry blossoms. Home to an exhibition Forlì is an area of great agricultural centre that hosts the most important and farming traditions, focusing in fair (Macfrut) dedicated to fruit and particular on poultry (chicken and vegetables in the Mediterranean area, turkey) and white meats (rabbit). The Cesena is the capital of one of the most poultry farming district of Forlì is one of important fruit and vegetable districts in the most important in Italy and Europe Italy, with a strong presence of companies and every two years the town’s exhibition producing, processing and marketing centre hosts the sector’s key exhibition fruit and vegetables. “Fieravicola”.

Don’t miss PIADINA AND CASSONI A healthy dish made using frugal ingredients like water, fl our and salt. Thanks to its delicious fl avour and fragrance, “piadina” has always been popular on the plains, on the coast and in the hills. Numerous roadside kiosks have opened to serve this delicious snack. It is excellent alone, with fresh cheese, vegetables, cold cuts and in lots of other ways. The dough is made using fl our, water and salt with the addition of lard to make it softer. It is then rolled out and cooked on a hot plate. Also try “cassoni” - a piadina fi lled and then folded in half, closed with the prongs a fork and cooked on a hot plate. Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it 65 - Forlì - Cesena & surroundings sh, in eggs, and fresh our sh, in the food traditions A territory savour to Forlì-Cesena is a treasure of The Province of farmingtrove and civilization. culture in fruit specializing and agriculture From vegetables, farming come growing and wine foodsdelicious, wholesome in therooted age- old traditions of the territory. Unsurprisingly, birththisgave area Artusi, to Pellegrino a and one of man of letters Forlimpopoli from the fathers of Italian handmade cuisine. Here, pasta dishes, made using fl “cappelletti” in broth,abound and include “passatelli”, “tortelli” “strozzapreti”, and “tagliatelle”. cattle and mora breed Romagnola pigs, with breed theirromagnola characteristic the meats. From excellent dark coat, provide pastures of the muttons, upper Rubicone come thantraditionally But there’s more grilled. just also the meat. There’s fi sea and particular “oily” fi of the and Cesenatico, whose canal- province harbour was da Vinci, designed by Leonardo continue products is its capital. Typical the oil from hills near with olive excellent and Longiano, Montiano and Roncofreddo with extraordinary in cheeses that each year, the from ditches of removed are November, also a wealth al Rubicone. There’s Sogliano in mushrooms from of autumnal products; gs or even ce our, dried fi our, ce cult to identify the origins of “bustreng”, pig’s blood (called by farmers “sweet bustreng”). It is often called confused with a millet cake, also various and there are dialectal“migliaccio”, names for including bustreng, this bostreng, cake bostrengo and bustrengo. Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it It is diffi contended by whose origins are a delicious cake are There region. and theRomagna upper Marche now various types available - starting the from basic of stalerecipe in milk, every soaked bread town adds raisins, such as rice, almonds, walnuts,ingredients apples, cheese, chestnut fl Worth trying BUSTRENG INFO: Information OffiCesena Tourist INFO: Information Offi Tourist Forlì Tel. +39 0543 712435 Tel. www.turismoforlivese.it www.turismo.fc.it +39 0547 356327 Tel. www.comune.cesena.fc.it/cesena/turismo www.turismo.fc.it Predappio and Cusercoli, to white truffl es in Dovadola and Bidente. Here peaches and nectarines are at their best and have been awarded European Community PGI protected origin status. Above all, the local bread par excellence is piadina, served hot fi lled with cold cuts, Swiss chard and “squacquerone”, typical local soft cheese similar to another soft cheese called “” but with a softer consistency. To accompany cuisine so rich in products and fl avours is one of the most important wine-making traditions in Italy. Thanks to the pedoclimatic conditions between the Adriatic Sea, the plains and the Apennines and the composition and variety of the land, the hilly strip between Forlì and Cesena boasts an age-old wine growing tradition, so much so that “in Romagna if you ask for water, they bring you wine”. Three of Romagna’s autochthonous vines - Albana, Pagadebit and Cagnina - are characteristic in this area. But the area’s great red wine is Sangiovese, whose bouquet and structure changes on these hills depending on the altitude and soil characteristics. Info: www.turismo.fc.it www.stradavinisaporifc.it

SAVOR “Savor” (E’ Savor, Savour) is very closely linked to the preparation of “saba” (a type of sauce). The ingredients are carefully chosen, each at a different time in the season - melon and watermelon dried in the sun and cut into thin strips, diced carrots, pumpkin fl esh cut into “pieces” and the candied peel of various citrus fruits such as lemons, citrons and oranges, walnuts, pine kernels and sweet almonds all fi nely chopped, apples, “volpina” pears, quinces, apricots, peaches or fi gs dried in the sun and roughly cut, raisins and any other fresh fruit. The result is a kind of marmalade with a “juicy” consistency that is the ideal accompaniment at breakfast or teatime with bread and piadina or with fresh and mature cheeses. In Montegelli, on the Apennines near Cesena, this product is celebrated every year in September. Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it 67 - Forlì - Cesena & surroundings ce rst to referred in Santa a Tourist Information Offi a Tourist a & Raviggiolo a, on the slopes of the Tuscan-Romagna a, on the slopes of the Tuscan-Romagna Sofi between October Apennines. It is produced on a domesticand March, level and therefore is added to is limited. Rennet production milk and thewhole cow’s or sheep’s cheese is then left to drain overnight on fern in leaves and usually not matured It is baskets. wicker on small fernserved branches, far picked from washed.the and carefully roadside Info: Santa Sofi [email protected] Santa Sofi Raviggiolo is a delicious soft cheese that It is one of the should be eaten fresh. products that the symbolize Central between Apennines although, according Tuscany and Romagna to tradition, it was fi avour. avour. ce rst immediately after wine ready harvesting. The hills between Cesena and Forlì are territoriesThe hills between Cesena and Forlì are an extraordinarythat have to vocation quality DOC di Romagna The Sangiovese wine production. at its best, is here an excellent wine produced to theaccompaniment rich local cuisine. Another DOC, thedi Romagna wine is Cagnina typical red fi with it is served roasted chestnuts, Traditionally, in thesometimes even “drowned” wine and removed to eat. It is a dessertusing a spoon ready wine with colour witha ripe pomegranate red hints of purple on withthe of the It is also excellent biscuits edge glass. and fruit tarts. Info: www.stradavinisaporifc.it A toast AND CAGNINASANGIOVESE DOC This is a unique product that product can only be eatenThis is a unique the at “Festaand purchased Vignaioli” dei in AltaPredappio To every year in November. “La Solfara”produce cheese, sheep’s grotto themilk cheese from Siena is used. hills near in spring, cheese, produced Pienza for two monthsis matured in the sulphuring Alta. of a disused mine in Predappio grottoes The humidity and particular of sulphur veins this cheese strong make in the present grottoes with delicatefl a unique, and creamy, Predappio & “La Solfara” & “La Solfara” Predappio cheese grotto This is why “La Solfara” is highly sought-after. as there in limited is quantities It is produced forlittle space in the maturing. grottoes Information Offi Tourism Info: Pro-loco [email protected] of December a Fossa Cheese Fair is held in Sogliano al Rubicone & Sogliano to coincide with the opening of the Fossa cheese ditches, which traditionally takes place on the feast of St. Catherine. “Fossa” cheese has now become the gastronomic symbol of Sogliano al Rubicone Info: Sogliano al Rubicone Tourist Information and it is appreciated throughout Italy. This Offi ce unique product is obtained by fermenting [email protected] cheeses produced in the valleys of the Rubicone and Marecchia in tufa ditches. The Don’t miss the Fossa Cheese Museum at “Fossa origins of this practice are unknown, but Pellegrini” farm. documents dating from the 15th century Info: “Fossa Pellegrini” Fossa Cheese Museum clearly highlight that it already existed at www.formaggiodifossa.it the time. According to tradition, the custom of placing cheese in ditches came about due to the need for local farmers to defend themselves from the plundering Aragonese troops that overran the countryside in the 15th century. When they reopened the ditches, the farmers realised that the cheeses had acquired a new and extraordinary fl avour. Fossa cheese from Sogliano has recently obtained PDO recognition. The production areas cover the entire territory of the provinces of Forlì-Cesena, Rimini, Ravenna, Pesaro-Urbino, Ancona, Macerata and Ascoli Piceno and part of the province of Bologna, namely the municipalities of Borgo Tossignano, Casalfi umanese, Castel San Pietro Terme, Castel del Rio, Dozza, Fontanelice, Imola, Loiano, Monghidoro, Monterenzio and Pianoro. At the end of November - beginning

Worth seeing CASA ARTUSI Inaugurated in 2007 in honour of Pellegrino Artusi (Forlimpopoli 1820 - Florence 1911), author of the famous manual “La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene” - Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well, Casa Artusi is the fi rst centre of food and wine culture dedicated to domestic Italian cuisine. Library, restaurant, cookery school, wine cellar, museum and venue for events: this is Casa Artusi, covering a surface of over 2,800 m in the monumental complex of the Church of the Servi in Forlimpopoli. It is a centre of gastronomic culture that draws inspiration from the heritage of Pellegrino Artusi to renew his teachings, diffuse them and make them more contemporary. Info: Casa Artusi - Tel. +39 0543 743138 - 749273 www.casartusi.it 69 - Forlì - Cesena & surroundings ce of Romagna. of Romagna. Information OffiInfo: Bertinoro Tourist [email protected] ank the of the remains rst of September. weekend ancient city walls, at each turn offering charming views. Bertinoro is famous for its “Hospitality Festival” which is held the fi The celebration the originates from tradition of consolidatedhospitality, in the column with rings, theand over years, been added. other events have celebrations a night of shows include and Today, historical and an unusual ceremony re-enactments in the latethat morning, takeswhen place on Sunday, anyone who wishes to can be hosted by a family from Bertinoro by choosing one of the hanging envelopes on the column. The name of the is also closely village to Albana; one of thelinked most famous white wines On the foothills between Forlì and Cesena stands the of Bertinoro,ancient village known as the Balcony Cobbled streets, historicalof Romagna. buildings, houses and paths fl churches, BERTINORO Rimini & surroundings 71 - Rimini & surroundings Events

SQUISITO! Coriano First weekend in May

NATIONAL TRUFFLE FESTIVAL Sant’Agata Feltria Sundays in October

To eat

•Extra-Virgin olive oil of the Hills of Romagna PDO •Salamini italiani alla cacciatora PDO •White Bullock of the Central Apennines PGI

To drink

•Colli di Rimini DOC •Sangiovese di Romagna and Trebbiano di Romagna DOC The historical origins of the city date back even with regards to its gastronomic to the 6th century BC. A port towards the heritage. However, tourists shouldn’t East and crossroads of communication just look towards the sea; the inland routes from north Europe and the Italian area of Rimini, which spills over into the peninsula, it was where Etruscan, Montefeltro area in the Marche, reserves Umbrian, Italic, Greek and Celtic equally interesting surprises in its populations met. Under Sigismondo numerous enchanting villages. Squeezed Pandolfo Malatesta, a great patron and between the sea and the hills, agriculture connoisseur of arts, the city reached its in the territory of Rimini focuses on vines greatest splendour, boasting numerous and olives that reach excellent quality new buildings and works of art. It gained levels. In this area, country cuisine rules the name of the capital of tourism, but is and domestic customs and village fêtes now also queen of business and congress recall the strong fl avours of central Italy. tourism. The holiday capital of the Piadina, here in the thinnest version coast of Romagna, Rimini is the ideal found in Romagna, is not only served starting point for an itinerary to discover with cold cuts but all kinds of food, the seafaring traditions of the region, accompanied by Sangiovese red wine.

INFO: Rimini Tourist Information Board Tel. +39 0541 53399 - 56902 www.riminiturismo.it www.turismo.provincia.rimini.it

Don’t miss PIADINA FROM RIMINI Info: Consortium of Producers of Fresh Piadina of the Piadina is a simple food that unites all of Romagna. Province of Rimini - www.consorziopiada.it This unleavened bread, which in farmhouses was traditionally cooked on hot stones, is a product that has now become popular outside the region, even though it is usually industrially produced. In Romagna it is still homemade, maintaining its differences in various zones, where it is called pieda, pida, pie or pijda. The traditional recipe includes white fl our, lard, rock salt crushed in a mortar - better still of it is sweet salt from Cervia - milk, bicarbonate and warm water, kneaded into dough that is also used for the thinner crescione or cassone. Piadina and crescione are ideal accompaniments for wild or cultivated greens, cold cuts and soft cheeses, such as “squacquerone”, but are also ideal as desserts served with creams, jams or honeys. In the Rimini area, piadina is larger, thinner and puffi er than in other areas. 73 - Rimini & surroundings nd e is not and aroma, avour cinal herbs, sheep’s milk era.com e Fair. This is a unique opportunity is a unique This to fi e Fair. cheeses and mutton. Association Info: Pro-loco info@santagatainfi EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL out more about this about out more corner of Montefeltro and delights such as mushrooms, its gastronomic offichestnuts, honey, “Colline di Romagna PDO” extra-virgin oil, with olive “Colline di Romagna characteristicsexcellent of fl would as widely known and popular as its quality suggest. Now the main condiment of Mediterranean oil wascuisine, olive traditionally a considered “luxury” for the and hungry cold, tired that world all in the above inland once represented, Romagna and in thearea hills. In fact, the popular cuisine of a product mainly used (or abused) lard, Romagna that was so energy-packed it was a sort considered of “second coat for the on winter”. Coriano, a village the hills near Rimini hosts and Autumnal an Olive every Fair Products year in autumn. Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.i Worth trying One of the capitals of this and precious fragrantthe tuber is Mediaeval enchanting every Feltria, which of Sant’Agata village year in October celebrates the White National Truffl sh sh have any right sh have sh should be used or not, ame should be low or lively. ame should be low or lively. sh to use and which to leave sh to use and which to leave sh soup and it isn’t really a secret a secret sh soup and it isn’t really sh must be very fresh. An extremely rare booklet dating from rarefrom booklet dating An extremely century,the writtenby Rimini-born 16th Malatesta Fiordiano, sang the praises the of richest, most formidable fi and princely had heated debates treatises soup. Numerous about which fi whether and shellfi molluscs out, whether fi oily to be included, whether to use tomato purée pepper or tomatoes,or fresh wine or vinegar, whether a pinch of saffronchilli pepper, helps and whether the fl Besides this diatribe about which ingredients or optional and on cooking essential are methods to and times, there’s only one secret good local fi Info: www.turismo.provincia.rimini.it - the fi The Riviera of Rimini & brodettoThe Riviera truffl & white Feltria Sant’Agata Saludecio & porchetta “Porchetta” (or roast pork) is a small or medium-sized piglet that is boned and fi lled with chopped offal, to which a mixture of pepper, garlic, salt, wild fennel and other herbs has been added. The carcass is then sewn up in “the shape of a pig” and threaded onto a spit, before being slowly cooked in a wood-fi red oven for about 4 or 5 hours. Once cooked, the pork rind on the back is crisp and the meat is pink, soft and very tasty. Although it is commonly considered a product typical of central Italy (Marche, Umbria and Lazio), porchetta is eaten widely in the area around Rimini. Every year in May, Saludecio, a lovely mediaeval town in the Conca Valley, hosts a Porchetta Festival where visitors can taste this dish. The hills near Saludecio, fall under the territories of the “Colline di Romagna” extra-virgin olive oil PDO, home to the largest number of olive groves in the Province.

Info: Saludecio Tourist Information Offi ce Tel. +39 0541 869731 [email protected]

PECORINO AND FOSSA CHEESE traditional event is the Ambra di Talamello Fair that is The hills near Rimini have always been home to fl ocks held in the fi rst half of November. of sheep kept for their milk which has always been Info: Municipal Tourist Offi ce used to make fresh or mature Pecorino cheese. The [email protected] Pecorino cheeses can also be matured in tufa ditches: this period lasts three months, from the end of August until November, when the ditches are opened and a cheese is removed with an inebriating fragrance and extraordinary nutritional properties, fl avour and aroma. In November every year in Mondaino the cheeses are “removed” from the ditches. Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.it

The maturing of cheeses in ditches has been certifi ed since the fi fteenth century. One of the most famous centres of production is the small village of Talamello where Fossa cheese is also called “amber”. A 77 - Rimini & surroundings rm. It is a very interesting rustic SANGIOVESE AND REBOLASANGIOVESE famousThe hills near Rimini are for wine production. di Romagna Sangiovese here, Of the grapes grown red and DOC is a pillar on which local wine-growing is founded. Of theproduction territories that have years perhaps the in recent most famousgrown is Coriano, which has even been called “Romagna’s Montalcino”. stands Rebola out amongst the autochthonous whites,called “Pignulèt” in local dialect. In the past it was excellent also used to make dessert wine, as important of the wine competitions centurylate 19th confi A toast What is obtainedvariety with is medium productivity. a wine with that good proof is fruity and and velvety Other pleasant. extremely autochthonous wine grapes and Biancame. Romagnolo Trebbiano are Info: www.stradadeivinidirimini.it Worth seeing

THE ROCCA MALATESTIANA The Rocca Malatestiana in Montefi ore is an imposing Info: Montefi ore Conca Tourist Information Offi ce symbol of the power of the Malatesta family utribmontefi [email protected] throughout the Conca Valley. Some say that, from here, on a very clear day it is possible to see Mount Velebit in Dalmatia, on the other side of the Adriatic. Very little is known about the foundation of this fortress, but it is certain that in 1337 Malatesta Guastafamiglia had already made it an important military and residential complex. In 1347, it hosted Louis the Great, King of Hungary and his entire court. Galeotto Malatesta Ungaro decided to add something to the already imposing residence; the extraordinary frescoes of battle scenes and portraits of ancient heroes. In the fortress courtyard, there is a delightful well dating from the end of the 14th century. 79 - Rimini & surroundings ce the around middle of the century,re 3rd the domus has [email protected] [email protected] At the end of the 1980s in Rimini, in the the heartAt end of the 1980s of the site of extraordinary an archaeological old town centre, importance came to light with artefacts dating from the period through to It is the the Roman Middle Ages. because of the house”, so-called profession “surgeon’s Destroyed by culture. a doctor of Greek of its last owner, fi mosaics, plasterwork,revealed furniture and furnishings that offer “photograph” an exceptional of life in ancient and pharmaceuticalRimini. The surgical instruments found amid the ruins is the richest collection to have house has been open ever come to light. The surgeon’s to the public since 2007. Information OffiInfo: Rimini Tourist THE SURGEON’S HOUSE THE SURGEON’S typical local products and farmhouse produce. Visitors can taste traditional local dishes and cakes Events and quality regional wines. Info: Food and Wine Route of the Hills of Forlì and Cesena Association calendar Tel. +39 0543 469213 [email protected] www.stradavinisaporifc.it Gutturnio Festival IAT Bertinoro Carpaneto Piacentino Tel. +39 0543 469213 - Fax +39 0543 444588 Last week in April [email protected] A tribute to one of the most famous wines of the IAT Longiano hills near Piacenza. An opportunity for enthusiasts Tel. +39 0547 665484 - Fax +39 0547 665484 to discover more about the history of Gutturnio and [email protected] the best accompaniments and naturally, to taste it. Info: IAT Castell’Arquato Via Dante, 27 - Castell`Arquato Slow Festival Tel. +39 0523 803215 - Fax +39 0523 803215 Felina (Castelnuovo ne’ Monti) [email protected] Last weekend in July This event takes place on the last weekend in July with the appointments that have made it famous: Squisito! the “Slow City” route, the craft road, with the Coriano best crafts produced in northern Italy, and areas First weekend in May dedicated to exhibitions, the environment and music, with over 20 shows. Dedicated to those who love to eat well and those who never tire of discovering new fl avours or old Info: IAT Castelnuovo ne’ Monti traditions. Top-rated chefs, experts and gourmets Via Roma, 15/B - Castelnuovo ne’ Monti come together to plot a contemporary map of Tel. +39 0522 810430 - Fax +39 0522 812313 fl avours. With workshops and tastings of excellent [email protected] products. To all intents and purposes a feast for the palate! Info: San Patrignano Rice days via San Patrignano, 53 - Coriano Jolanda di Savoia Tel. +39 0541 362111 - Fax +39 0541 362411 End of August [email protected] The event is linked to the promotion of Po Delta www.squisito.org rice PGI, of which the town of Jolanda di Savoia is considered the capital, and hosts important initiatives dedicated to both rice growers and those Wines and fl avours on who love this product. The four varieties of rice the streets of Bertinoro and grown in the Po Delta - Carnaroli, Baldo, Volano Longiano and Arborio - reveal all their secrets to visitors. Bertinoro - mid-June Info: IAT Centro Unifi cato di Ferrara Longiano - mid-July Tel. +39 0532 299303 - Fax +39 0532 212266 In these splendid “balconies” overlooking [email protected] Romagna, the protagonists of the Food and Wine Route of the Hills of Forlì and Cesena festival are Parma Ham Festival In the municipalities of the Parma ham production zone (Langhirano, Tizzano, wine, the programme of events includes songs and Collecchio, Calestano, Lesignano Bagni, Neviano various local folk performances. Arduini, Montechiarugolo, Sala Baganza and Info: UIT Guastalla Felino). Via Gonzaga, 37/A - Guastalla From the end of August until 20th September Tel. +39 0522 219812 - Fax +39 0522 219708 approx. [email protected] A great event that, for a whole month, brings to life the Parma ham production zone with tastings, seminars and great concerts, reaching its climax with a fantastic festival in the city of Parma. The Gastronomic autumn in initiative entitled “Open Windows” - a tried-and- the Taro valley In the municipalities of the upper Taro Valley tested formula of guided visits accompanied by (Albareto, Bedonia, Berceto, Borgotaro, local producers - will also take place during the Compiano, Tornolo). festival. In September, October and November Info: IAT Torrechiara An autumn packed with events and village fêtes Strada Castello, 10 - Torrechiara in the upper Taro Valley to celebrate the “king” of Tel. +39 0521 355009 - Fax +39 0521 355821 mushrooms - the Porcino or cep. Each weekend, [email protected] the restaurants, inns and holiday farms in the valley offer top-quality menus. By fi lling in a questionnaire, guests can choose the winner of the Human Draughts “Golden Mushroom” prize, at the same time taking Castelvetro part in a prize draw for a basket of typical local 2nd weekend in September produce.

The event revokes the splendours of the Renaissance Info: IAT Borgo Val di Taro with a game played on the square, marked out as Piazza Manara, 7 - Borgo Val di Taro a draughtboard, by skilled starters with real- Tel./Fax +39 0525 96796 life draughts and “demons” in period costume. [email protected], It recalls the festival organized by the Marquises of Rangone in 1564 to honour the poet Torquato Tasso, who stayed in Castelvetro. During the two evenings, visitors will see a procession of soldiers, Showcases, Motors ladies and knights, archers and fl ag-wavers and the and Balsamic fl avours Spilamberto event ends with a theatre and fi re show. 1st weekend in October Info: U.I.T. Terre di Castelli (Municipalities of The event starts Friday, with food-themed Vignola, Castelnuovo Rangone, Castelvetro di initiatives organized by AIAB E.R. and OVERSEAS Modena, Savignano s.P. and Spilamberto) and the screening of theme fi lms. On Saturday, Via Selmi, 5 - Vignola grape must is boiled outdoors by the masters Tel. +39 059 764365 - Fax +39 059 764311 of the Balsamic Vinegar Guild, with a tasting [email protected] of traditional products, shows and animation. Activities at Flavour Museums, educational farms Pumpkin Festival and production consortiums and a vintage car and Reggiolo motorbike rally on Sunday. Last weekend in September. Info: IAT “Terre di Castelli” The event offers visitors the chance to taste c/o Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Museum traditional pumpkin-based dishes from the lower Via Roncati, 28 - Spilamberto Mantua area and the area near Reggio, such as the Tel. +39 059 78 12 70 - Fax +39 059 78 12 86 famous pumpkin-fi lled tortelli. As well as food and [email protected] main square in Savigno. Info: IAT Zola Predosa Villa Garagnani, Via Masini, 11 - Zola Predosa Flavour weekends in Tel. +39 051 752472 - Fax +39 051 752472 Bologna [email protected] Bologna Weekends in October Events to promote and taste local food and wine products in the historical city centre. The calendar National Truffl e Festival Sant’Agata Feltria of events includes: Sundays in October “Lo sfoglino d’oro” - a competition between A great exhibition that attracts numerous professional pasta makers who have won various connoisseurs of these delicious, fragrant white national and international competitions during the truffl es. Alongside the famous tuber, there are also year. mushrooms, chestnuts, honey and local crafts. An “Mortadella please”, an international mortadella opportunity to try some of the most sophisticated festival. specialities prepared using truffl es and mushrooms. Info: IAT Bologna Info: Proloco Sant’Agata Feltria Tel. +39 051 239660 - 6472113 - 251947 Tel +39 0541 848022 Fax +39 051 6472253 info@santagatainfi era.com touristoffi [email protected]

Eel Festival Autumn in Cesenatico Comacchio Fish Celebrates Cesenatico First two weekends in October Late October - early November A traditional appointment that offers the A weekend celebrating fi sh with an opportunity opportunity to try delicious dishes prepared, using to try traditional recipes, fried fi sh served in retro eel and freshwater and saltwater fi sh, by the sailors brown paper and a fun market with stands selling of Comacchio at the busy food stands. The streets, various products. An event that recalls the sea and bridges and canals of the village come to life gently envelopes the charming, old fi shing village. with craft markets, typical products and themed scenery. Info: IAT Cesenatico Tel. +39 0547 673287 Fax +39 0547 79404 Info: IAT Comacchio [email protected] Tel. +39 0533 314154 - Fax +39 0533 319278 [email protected] Baccanale Tartufesta in the Apennines Imola of Bologna First three weekends in November Municipalities in the Apennines of Bologna A famous cultural and gastronomic event promoted Weekends in October and November by the Municipality of Imola that each year focuses Every weekend in October and November, 13 on various aspects of the theme of food - culture, municipalities in the Apennines near Bologna offer history, local traditions, fl avours, the promotion a packed programme of gastronomic and cultural of typical products and the relationship between events to promote the precious white truffl e, which food and health. A packed programme that skilfully grows locally. The calendar of events concludes with combines entertainment, food and wine culture, the traditional “National White Truffl e Festival” meetings, tastings, cookery lessons, exhibitions, that gives life to the national truffl e market in the guided visits and shows. Exhibition and sale of select local wines and spirits Info: IAT Imola and typical products of Romagna. With a number of Galleria del Centro Cittadino workshops, tastings and the chance to meet chefs Via Emilia, 135 - Imola and sommeliers. Tel. +39 0542 602207 - Fax +39 0542 602141 Info: IAT Faenza [email protected] Voltone della Molinella 2 - Faenza Tel./Fax +39 0546 25231 November Porc …. [email protected] Let’s hope it’s foggy! Sissa, Polesine Parmense, Zibello, Roccabianca Every weekend in November 4 Festivals for 3 Hills: PORK DELICACIES, An itinerant food event held every weekend in VOLPINA PEAR AND MATURE CHEESE FESTIVAL, November in the municipalities of Sissa, Polesine TRUFFLE FESTIVAL, Parmense, Zibello and Roccabianca. During OLIVE TREE AND OLIVE OIL FESTIVAL these events, visitors will be able to savour the Brisighella, old town centre delights of the area, buy local produce and taste, Sundays in November free of charge, maxi-reproductions of the 4 most One hill comes to life each Sunday in November traditional cold cuts of the lower Parma area - with festivals dedicated respectively to products Mariola, Strolghino, Prete and Cicciolata. prepared using pork meat, the rediscovery of Info: “Strada del Culatello di Zibello” Association Volpina pears, served with mature cheese, precious Tel. +39 0524 939081 truffl es, used to prepare traditional dishes, and [email protected] olive trees and olive oil. www.novemberporc.com/.it Info: UIT Brisighella P.tta Porta Gabolo - Brisighella Tel./Fax +39 0546 81166 A Bit of Flavour - [email protected] Un Po’ di Gusto Lower Piacenza area November Amid ancient traditions and genuine fl avours, for the entire month of November the best restaurants and holiday farms in the area offer special menus based on local fl avours. Info: IAT Piacenza Piazza Cavalli - Piacenza Tel. +39 0523 329324 Fax +39 0523 306727 [email protected]

Enologica and Exhibition of Typical products of Romagna Faenza, provincial exhibition centre 3rd weekend in November