Inauguration Sourdough Library 15 October 2013
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Inauguration Sourdough Library 15 October 2013 Professor of Microbiology at the Department of Soil, Plant and Food Sciences University of Bari, Italy “History of bread” Marco Gobbetti 16 – 17 October, Sankt Vith (Belgium) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Bread: «The ferment of life» For the Egyptians: a piece of merchandise.. For the Egyptians: Sacred value….”a gift of God or the gods” For the Jews.. sacred and transcendent value For the Christians..Eucharist For the Greeks..offered to the Divinity…medicinal purpose For the Latin.. vehicle for transmitting of the sacrum For the Romans..sign of purification Wall painting of the Tomb of Ramesses III, (1570-1070 b. C), XIX Dinasty Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Influence of the term «bread» on the common lexicon «Lord»«Companion» (from Old English(from cum vocabulary panis) hlaford) “to earn his bread” ““toremove eat unearnedbread from bread” his mouth” “man cannot live on bread alone” Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy History and sourdough Egyptians (2000 B.C.) casually discovered a leavened dough; used foam of beer as a (unconscious) starter for dough leavening Romans (1° century A.D.) used to propagate the sourdough through back-slopping (Plinio il Vecchio, Naturalis Historia XVIII) Middle Age (1600): dawn of the use of baker’s yeast for bread Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Tacuini sanitatis (XI century): “among the six elements needed to keep daily wellness… foods and beverages… “ “…White bread: it improves the wellness but it must be completely fermented …“ (FromTheatrum sanitatis, XI Century) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Pliny the elder wrote: “….Then, normally they do not even heat the dough, but they just use a bit of dough left from the day before, and it is undeniable that flour, by its nature, is leavened by an acid substance. …“(Pliny the Elder G (1972) Naturalis Historia XVIII, 102-104, edition of Le Biniec H. Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy History and sourdough Egyptian (2000 B.C.) casually discovered a leavened dough; used foam of beer as a (unconscious) starter for dough leavening Romans (1° century A.D.) used to propagate the sourdough through back-slopping (Plinio il Vecchio, Naturalis Historia XVIII) Middle Age (1600): dawn of the use of baker’s yeast for bread 1800: Louis Pasteur found the agents of fermentation 1900: sourdough being more and more replaced by baker’s yeast discovery of the sourdough (consumer / industry) 2013 Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Bread as an invaluable good... ASCB, Comune, serie terza, sec. XIX, mazzo 62 fascicolo 031 - 031.01 Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Bread is good for all... Celebration of bread, 1928 Milano, Italy (Civic Collection of prints “Achille Bertarelli”) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy And finally came the sweet leavened products Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Bread: «The ferment of life» Nowadays...cultural heritage Wall painting of the Tomb of Ramesses III, (1570-1070 b. C), XIX Dinasty Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy What is the sourdough? Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy “A mixture of flour (wheat, rye, rice, etc…) and water, fermented by lactic acid bacteria and yeasts, which are responsible for its capacity to leaven a dough, while contemporarily and unavoidably acidifying it” (Gobbetti, 1998. Trends Food Sci. Technol.) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy How may lactic acid bacteria contribute to sourdough processes? Homolactic fermentation Heterolactic fermentation Glucose Sucrose Glucose Maltose Fructose H + H + Glucose Maltose NADH+H+ NAD Acidification 6P-Gluconate Piruvate + (2) Lactate NAD CO + Moderate increase of 2 NADH + H the volume 5P-Ribulose protein 5P-Xilulose PrtP alkaline Pi biosynthesis Acetyl-P 3P-Glyceraldehyde Acetate ADP oligopeptides ATP ATP amino acids Synthesis of volatile compounds Ethanol Piruvate NADH+H H+ NAD Acidification (1) Lactate amino acids How may yeasts contribute to sourdough processes? Carbohydrates H2S Suphates/sulfites H2S Acetaldehyde ATP Carbohydrates Diacetyl Amino acids Pyruvate Acetolactate FBA Diidrissiacetonfosfato 3- P Glyceraldehyde TPI Acetaldehyde Acetyl-CoA Keto acids Ethanol Ethanol Fatty acids CoA Higher alcohols Esters Ethanol Fatty acids CO2 Alcohols Fatty acids Esters Increase of the volume Synthesis of volatile compounds Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Where are from lactic acid bacteria and yeasts? Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Where are from lactic acid bacteria and yeasts? Ecological parameters ü Dough yield ü Sourdough (%) used as the inoculum ü NaCl ü Redox potential ü Fermentation time ü Fermentation temperature ü pH ü Number of back- slopping step ü Storage temperature (Minervini et al., 2013. Int. J. Food Microbiol.) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy How to prepare the sourdough? Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Sourdough: “a mixture of flour and water, fermented by lactic acid bacteria and yeasts, which are responsible for its capacity to leaven a dough” (Gobbetti et al., 1998) Rye Triticum durum 0 1 2 5 10 Days of propagation (refreshment) T. aestivum Sampling Daily sourdough back slopping (Ercolini et al., 2013. Appl. Environ. Microbiol.) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Classification of sourdoughs Type I sourdough. Traditional sourdoughs whose microrganisms are kept metabolically active through daily refreshments (three-stage protocol is applied relying on three refreshments over 24 h). Sourdough 1° refreshment – Water fermentation at ca. Flour 25°C for 5 - 6 h Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis L. pontis, L. fructivorans 2° refreshment – L. fermentum, L. brevis Water fermentation at ca. Flour 28°C for 7 - 8 h + Candida milleri, C. holmii, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, 3° refreshment – Kazachstania exigua Water fermentation at ca. Flour 25°C for 2 - 3 h Mature sourdough Mother sponge stored till using Leavening agent for bread for the next bread-making production Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Classification of sourdoughs Type II sourdough. Sourdoughs obtained through a unique fermentation step of 15 – 20 h followed by storage for many days. These sourdoughs are generally liquid (DY of ca. 200) and they are produced at the industrial level using bioreactors or tanks at a controlled temperature that exceeds 30°. Type II sourdoughs are used for dough acidification, and as dough improvers. Lactobacillus panis L. reuteri, L. johnsonii, Commercial baker’s yeast L. pontis, L. brevis + 1° refreshment for 15 – 20 h at ca. > 30°C (Gobbetti and Gaenzle, 2013. In Handbook on Sourdough Biotechnology, Springer) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Classification of sourdoughs Type III sourdough. Type II liquid sourdoughs, which are dried/ stabilized after preparation, are named tipe III. They are manly used at the industrial level manufactured by sourdough fermentation with subsequent water evaporation leading to dried preparations which are used as acidifier supplements and aroma carriers. Pediococcus pentosaceus L. plantarum, L. brevis Type III 1° refreshment for 15 – 20 h at ca. > 30°C Type II (Gobbetti and Gaenzle, 2013. In Handbook on Sourdough Biotechnology, Springer) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy How diverse is the sourdough compared to the other starters used for making fermented foods and beverages? Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Microbial biodiversity and fermented foods Soft and semi-soft cheeses Commercial starters: industrial preparations composed by one or more defined microbial species Streptococcus thermophilus Yogurt and fermented milks Lactobacillus plantarum St. thermophilus L. pentosus Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. bulagaricus Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy Bastone di Padova ü L. plantarum (1) ü L. paralimentarius (4) ü Leuc. mesenteroides (1) Pane casereccio Marchigiano Pane Carasau ü L. plantarum (2) ü L. casei (1) ü L. sanfranciscensis (1) ü P. inopinatus (2) ü P. pentosaceus (1) ü L. plantarum (7) ü L. brevis (1) ü Lc. lactis (1) ü W. paramesenteroides (1) ü Leuc. mesenteroides (1) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari, Italy Inter-species biodiversity Natural starter: artisan preparation composed by mixed populations of different microorganisms Whey Culture - 3% 26 Dairy farms (Solieri et et al., 2012. Syst. Appl. Microbiol. 35, 270-277) Department of Soil, Plant and Food Science, University of Bari Aldo Moro, Italy “Bulding up the sourdough library” Source of sourdough Protocols biodiversity for bread History and main features of the bread Back-slopping protocols Biochemical traits of the sourdough Lactic acid bacteria