Welcome to the World Heritage City of

There are places that somehow manage tant events and a complete summary of to get under your skin, even though you the Bruges museums, attractions and don’t really know them all that well. other sites of interest, including histor- Bruges is that kind of place. A warm and ical, cultural and religious buildings friendly place, a place made for people. and locations. Bruges’ beautiful A city whose history made it great, re- squares and enchanting canals are the sulting in a well-deserved classification regular backdrop for topclass cultural as a Unesco World Heritage site. events. And few cities have such a rich and diverse variety of museums, which 1

In this guide you will discover Bruges’ contain gems ranging from the FOREWORD different facets. There are five separate primitives and beautiful lace work to chapters. the finest modern art of today.

In chapter 1 you will find everything you In Bruges you can dine at a different need to prepare your trip to Bruges. You star-rated restaurant each day, or per- will read about the ten must sees, get a haps you would prefer lunch at a trendy brief summary of the city’s history and bistro before wandering through the discover lots of practical information. winding cobbled streets of the city? Or Further in this chapter, the lovers of good maybe you just want to take in a pleasant food and drink will find a list of the best pub or one of the many magnificent ter- restaurants, while the shopaholics will races with a view? These are the places, receive tips for the most authentic and full of charm and character, which you top-quality shopping addresses. can read about in chapter 4. Five ‘new arrivals’ to the city will also tell you about The three inspiring walking routes in- their favourite places in town. cluded in chapter 2 will take you to all the most beautiful spots in town. The Staying a bit longer in the region? detailed city plan – which you can sim- Chapter 5 suggests a number of excur- ply fold out of the back cover of this sions to the other Flemish historical guide – will make sure that you don’t cities, the Bruges Wetlands and Wood- lose your way. lands, the coast, the Westhoek, the Lys valley, the Meetjesland (Creek Country) Chapter 3 provides a summary of the and the Flemish Ardennes. many different possibilities for explor- The choice is yours! ing Bruges and gives details of every- thing the city has to offer in cultural terms: a calendar of the most impor- Highlights of Bruges The 10 ‘classics’ you don’t want to miss

Rozenhoedkaai 4 and the Bruges canals, a typical city view The Rozenhoedkaai (Rosary Quay) links the Belfry with the city’s network of ca- nals, the true ‘veins’ of Bruges, and of- fers a unique and picturesque pano- ramic view. Hardly surprising, then, that the Rozenhoedkaai is the most popular photographic hot-spot in town!

HIGHLIGHTS OF BRUGES OF HIGHLIGHTS You can discover many more special places and hidden pearls during a boat trip on the canals. From the water, Bru- ges is even more enchanting. A classic that you really don’t want to miss.

Markt: an absolute must The vibrant centre of the city has been dominated for centuries by the 83-metre high Belfry. Today, you can climb right to the top of this impressive tower. You will be rewarded with a spectacular view of Bruges and the surrounding countryside. The Markt (Market Square) is also home to the Historium, a top attraction that takes you back in time to the city’s medi- eval past. Ringed with colourful houses, the Market Square is also the regular standing place for the famous horse-drawn carriages. (Read more on pages 76 and 84-85) Medieval splendour on the Burg The Burg is the beating heart of the city. From the 14th century town hall, which is the oldest in the , Bru- ges has been governed for more than 600 years. This majestic architectural square also contains the Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, the former Civil Reg- istry and the Basilica of the Holy Blood. No other location in Bruges bears greater testimony to the city’s former wealth. 5

(Read more on pages 75, 79 and 92) HIGHLIGHTS OF BRUGES

Strolling through the old Hansa Quarter From the 13th to the 15th century, Bruges was the most important trading centre in North-West Europe. Spanish merchants settled along the Spaanse Loskaai (Spanish Quay) and in the Spanjaardstraat. The Germans or Easterners – ‘oosterlingen’ in Dutch – took up residence in the Oosterlingenplein. In this old Hansa Quarter you can admire the mansions of the wealthy international merchants and the great trading nations of the day. You can almost still smell the atmosphere of the Middle Ages.

The Flemish primitives: timeless beauty In Bruges’ Golden Age – the 15th century – art was king. Leading artists of the day, like Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling, came to live and work in the city. Today, you can marvel at the masterpieces of the world-famous Flemish primitives in the Groeninge Museum and the St. John’s Hospital. Here you can come face to face with the great paintings that were created in the city all those centuries ago. (Read more on pages 84 and 90) Practical information

Accessibility full day: € 22.00. Electric bike, full day: If you see the symbol in this guide, this € 20.00 means that provision has been made for OPEN > During the period 1/3 to 1/12: daily, people with disabilities. Further details 10.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m. about the level of accessibility can be found INFO > Tel. +32 (0)479 97 12 80, 12 at the tourist information offices. [email protected]

» Bruges Bike Rental Bicycle rental points LOCATION > Niklaas Desparsstraat 17 » Bauhaus Bike Rental PRICE > 1 hour: € 4.00; 2 hours: € 7.00; LOCATION > Langestraat 145 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 13.00, students PRICE > 3 hours: € 6.00; full day: € 10.00 (on display of a valid student card): € 10.00. OPEN > Daily, 8.00 a.m.-9.00 p.m. (bikes Tandem, 1 hour: € 10.00; 2 hours: € 15.00; must be returned by 9.00 p.m.) 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 25.00, students INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 10 93, (on display of a valid student card): € 22.00 www.bauhaus.be/services/bike-rental OPEN > During the period 1/2 to 31/12: daily,

PRACTICAL INFORMATION PRACTICAL 10.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. » B-Bike Concertgebouw ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > LOCATION > Concertgebouw, ’t Zand 1/1 and 25/12 PRICE > 1 hour: € 4.00; 5 hours: € 8.00; INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 61 61 08, full day: € 12.00. Tandem, 5 hours: € 14.00; www.brugesbikerental.be » De Ketting also during weekends and on holidays, LOCATION > Gentpoortstraat 23 9.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. PRICE > Full day: € 7.00. Electric bike, ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > full day: € 20.00 1/1 to 3/1 and 25/12 to 31/12 OPEN > During the period 1/4 to 15/10: INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 39 68 26 Monday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. [email protected] and Sunday, 10.30 a.m.-6.00 p.m.; during the period 16/10 to 31/3: Monday to Satur- » Koffieboontje day, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. LOCATION > Hallestraat 4 INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 41 96, PRICE > 1 hour: € 5.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; www.deketting.be full day: € 15.00, students (on display of a valid student card): € 11.25. Tandem, » Electric Scooters 1 hour: € 10.00; 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: 13 Rental of electric bikes. € 30.00, students (on display of a valid PRACTICAL INFORMATION LOCATION > Gentpoortstraat 55 en 62 student card): € 22.50 PRICE > 2 hours: € 10.00; 4 hours: € 18.00; OPEN > Daily, 9.00 a.m.-10.00 p.m. full day: € 30.00 INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 33 80 27, OPEN > During the period 1/4 to 31/10: www.bikerentalkoffieboontje.be Wednesday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.- 6.00 p.m. » Snuffel Hostel EXTRA > Rental of electric scooters LOCATION > Ezelstraat 42 (see pages 20-21) PRICE > Full day: € 8.00 INFO > Tel. +32 (0)474 09 19 18, OPEN > Daily, 8.00 a.m.-8.00 p.m. www.electric-scooters.be (bikes have to be returned by 8.00 p.m.) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 33 31 33, » Eric Popelier www.snuffel.be LOCATION > Mariastraat 26 PRICE > 1 hour: € 5.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full » Steershop day: € 15.00. Electric bike or tandem, 1 hour: LOCATION > Havenstraat 3 € 10.00; 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 30.00 PRICE > City bike, full day: € 10.00. Racing or OPEN > During the period 15/3 to 15/10: touring bike, full day: € 25.00; per extra day: daily, 9.00 a.m.-7.00 p.m.; during the peri- € 15.00. Bikes must be reserved online. od 16/10 to 14/3: daily, 10.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m. OPEN > Tuesday to Saturday, 2.00 p.m.- ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 7.00 p.m. (collecting bikes between 1/1, 25/5 and 25/12, closed on Monday in 8.00 a.m. and 12.00 p.m. is possible January and December following reservation online) INFO > Tel. +32 (0)50 34 32 62, EXTRA > Guided tours (see pages 155-156) www.fietsenpopelier.be INFO > Tel. +32 (0)474 40 84 01, www.steershop.be » Fietspunt Station LOCATION > Hendrik Brugmansstraat 3 Most of the bicycle rental points ask for the (Stationsplein) payment of a guarantee. PRICE > 1 hour: € 6.00; 4 hours: € 10.00; full day: € 15.00. Electric bike, 4 hours: € 20.00; full day: € 30.00 Bike taxi OPEN > Monday to Friday, 7.00 a.m- A bike taxi will bring you to your destination 7.00 p.m.; during the period 1/5 to 30/9: in an ecological way. Shopping in Bruges

Bruges has lots of shops to offer you something special: authentic places that surprise you again and again with their clever and original products. The city is rightly famous for its harmonious mix of creative and trendy newcomers, vintage addresses where nostalgia rules, and classic establishments that have been run with success for decades by the same family. Where to shop? a Sunday. Many specialist stores are Because Bruges is pedestrian-friendly open on Sunday as well. And on ‘Shop- and the main streets are all close to ping Sundays’ – the first Sunday of the each other, a day’s shopping here is month, except on public holidays, from much more relaxing than in many other 1.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m. – they are joined by cities. You will find all the major national the majority of the other shops. To make and international chains, as well as your shopping experience more pleas- trendy local boutiques. And if you leave ant, there is restricted access for traffic the beaten shopping paths you will cer- on Saturdays and ‘Shopping Sundays’ in tainly make plenty of interesting new the following shopping streets: discoveries. The most important shop- Zuidzandstraat, Steenstraat, Geldmunt- 27

ping streets (indicated in yellow on the straat and Noordzandstraat (from SHOPPING IN BRUGES removable city map) run between the 1.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m.). Market Square and the old city gates: Steenstraat, Simon Stevinplein, Marias- Bruges’ craftspersons traat, Zuidzandstraat, Sint-Jakob- and specialty stores sstraat, Sint-Amandsstraat, Geldmunt- Creativity is built into the DNA of the peo- straat, Noordzandstraat, Smedenstraat, ple of Bruges; so it should come as no Vlamingstraat, Academiestraat, Philip- surprise to anyone that nowadays the stockstraat, Hoogstraat, Langestraat city is teeming with innovative entrepre- and Katelijnestraat. There is also a neurs. In the charming craft shops you small but elegant shopping centre, the are guaranteed to find an original, hand- Zilverpand, hidden between Noordzand- made gift to surprise your family and straat and Zuidzandstraat. Each neigh- friends back home. Surf to www.hand bourhood has its own unique atmos- madeinbrugge.be and discover dozens phere. In Steenstraat, for example, you of fun addresses and inspiring stories. will find the amousf brand names, Also check out the official city app Xplore whereas Langestraat boasts many little Bruges, which will take you to all the secondhand and bric-à-brac shops. The large hypermarkets are located just out- side the city centre.

When to shop? Most shops operate from Monday to Saturday, opening at 10.00 a.m. and clos- ing at either 6.00 or 6.30 p.m. But this does not mean that you need to go home empty-handed if you come to Bruges on Walk 1 Bruges, proud World Heritage City

Bruges may be, quite rightly, very proud of her World Heritage status, but the city is happily embracing the future too! This walk takes you along world-famous panoramic views, sky-high monuments and centuries-old squares invigorated by contemporary constructions. One foot planted in the Middle Ages, the other one firmly planted in the present. This walk is an absolute must for first-time visitors who would like to explore the very heart of the city straight away. Keep your camera at the ready! Maagdendal orpstr.

e Speelmansstraat

r e Ropeerdstraat

t 20 E

a i a l r Noord- Rijkepijndersstr.

t i

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g Carmersstraat h Hoedenmakersstraat Kruiersstr. Lauwerstraat e t West-Gistelhof Gistelhof a Kalkovenstr. Oost- Sterstraat s ra t Korte Speelmansstr. t Schrijversstraat r Stil Ende a rels Hugo a a t K plantsoen Losschaertstr. Sint-Jorisstraat er 31 iz J Korte Ropeerdstr. 12 e Achiel Van a Gouden-Ha K n ndstr aat Ackerplein M 14 18 i Torenbrug 45 r Driezwanenstr. a Filips de Goedelaan e Oosterlin Korte Rijkepijndersstr. l s Gouden-Handrei Gieterijstraat t Jan Boninstraat r Korte Blekersstr. Venkelstraat Karel de Stoutelaan a B a om Genthof 32 Kr a t werkersstSchrijn- sstraat Spaanse Loskaai Jeruzalemstraat l S s genplein p t t Bleker a r 11 a ra a Sledestr. n st a

kel j ro t a r. St Augustijnenrei a 08

R r Genthof a d a 09 s m Kortewin t 01

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ss t a ker markt Verversdijk Kantwerksters- Rozendal a Poitevinstraat a Vlamingstraat Annaplein Graaf Visartpark t nm Kipstraat plein e Koningstr. tt Spiegelrei t 19 Po aa Korte St.- Gra P. Pourbusstr. Rode-Haanstr. tr Annastraat Rodestraat an s uw 05 21 Engelsestraat n a we r Zakske r Spinolarei o Damhouderstr. sl ke Jan van o Joost de e rs H St.-Anna- Timmermansstr. i st Eyckplein Vl ra 15 St.-Maartens- kerkstraat - at Boudewijn plein n Groenestraat . 11 Bevrijdingslaan e Biskajersplein Ostenstraat d Academiestraat 24 l u G Adriaan 08 t 09 25 Wijnzak- Korte aa

Willaertstr. Robijnstr tr Naaldenstraat s k straat 17 33 Sint-Jansstraat Riddersstr. ar a Kraanrei la d Z Boomgaardstraat e Leffingestr. n e Kuipersstraat d a ud 44 St.-Jans- n l O 25 09 a w huis Kraan- Riddersstraat K Minnebo- eu Kersen- B 22 oter plein s i boomstr. e B Ieperstr. Wapenmakersstr. r N e L 07 Vlamingstraat plein plein e nd n e Sint-Jakobs- 10 e bra Peter Benoitlaan raat h e J. van Ooststr. Ver o u r. m u w plein st n w Sint-Jakobsstraat rs e s ie l BLOEDPUT e t 06 n Roompotst ra tr. a Middel- o r. r a ss burgstr.St.-Walburgastraat s t ar e Keersstr. M s WC sp o t e d r r a D TwijnstraatKelkstraat s o a Geerwijnstraat aa t Park Sebrechts ikl C 12 at Pater Damiaanst Palmstr. N Rozemarijn- estra

M straat Lang Geernaart- Burgstr. Kl. Herts-

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t Eiermarkt

i i e 37 re r 30 ne s t Hertsberge- oe t Bollaardstr. a straat Peer r r G Kleine Kuipersstr. a Ganzenstraat a r Muntplein t WC Hoogstraat a t a s a denstr. 06 t r r Predikherenrei e tst o Muntpoort n 18 Hoefijzerlaan u 17 WC Spikkelboorstr. M m 16 16 d MARKT 15 O Gel aat n Prinsenhof -Amandsstr De Garre 03 07 Freren Fonteinstraat tv St. 19 Breidelstraat BURG edikherenstraat an Kort Blinde-Ezelstr. Pr ge e Z Kleine St.-Amandsstr. Witteleertouwersstraat rs il gersstr. st ve 01 08 43 C ra r Hallestraat05 Steenhouwersdijk o He a s 33 u g l t t WC Buiten Smedenvest m r Vismarkt p in SchouwveBrandstraat s a Waalsestraat u St.-JansstKleine tr K a J. Suvéestraat r st 20 a o t 09 22 e at p Wollestraat Ve Korte Lane i s 24 Braambergstr. e W t S Huiden- r nst ra t. s u aa ra a - vettersplein r. n l H a t N a fh t i Z m a kl Kartuizerinnenstr. Kruitenbergstraatw l g aa a ststr. e e s 13 r Ne e s Giststraat str te p tr Steenstraat . Pandreitje le S a Waalsestraat ‘t Zweerd a Kemelstr. Zomerstr.Oude er t to t Park Minderbroeder u Lane Zevensterrestraat Kl. Hoef- 12 Rozenhoedkaai w aa Loppemstr. e Engelstr. ijzerstr. tr t Eekhoutstraat r Artoisstr. s a s Paalstraat d ra 13 st Kammaker n t g r Kreupelenstraat za s r a G rd r Simon u a Guido Gezellelaan r B t e oo e e v d i N l D Stevinplein u n i O 10 Geerolfstr. Koude- sstraat

Z Gevangenisstr. s 17 w Zilverpand c markt e C h Dijver e o u Nieuwstraat V ur sstr. r iz s Zilver- i s steeg 02 ‘t Pand S Koningin e s t rs t a t r l r a i Astridpark t a jz r a e a a St.-Salvators-koorstr. a t r Violierstraat t s t Eekhoutpoort Beelden- tr 28 Willemstraat a makersstr. a t Vrijdagmarkt Guido Leemputstr. Kegelschoolstr. t straa Gezelle- 03 zand S f uid t 23 o plein GruuthusestraatHof Diamant- Zwijnstraat Z .- h H.-GeeststraatPijpersstr. G SMEDENPOORT S rk Arents a slijpersstr. 07 Schaarstraat at van Brugge Lendestr. r ‘t Zand Hoogste ra Centrum al ke e st boomstr. v s d Oranje- ator 29 n aar Smedenstraat ‘t Zand m Goud- Gap Buiten de G 20 Korte Kleine H.- 03 Geeststr r a smedenstraat Smedenpoort o r Vuldersstr. e k n t 02 Mariastraat in 19 . FINISH 35 15 ge START Goezeputstraat W WC ill Buiten Boeverievest St.-Maartensbilk em 18 O.L.V.- ijnen Beursplein kerkhof-Zuid Willemijnen- dr 38 ntweg eef Hauwerstraat 39 we Ge plantsoen St.-Jan in de Meers 04 WC Nieu J G Gloribusstr. a e Maa Kastanjeboomstraat k nt Hendrik Consciencelaan Bakkersstr. Werkhuisstraat o p b oo Singel gdenstraat i rts OUD SINT-JAN n tra e at Boninvest 10 t Congrescentrum Driekroezenstr. a Koolbrandersstr. s a se r t lok n K straat s Stoofstraat s Jakobinessenpark e i tr 07 r St.-Obrechtsstr. a e v a e t 26 o . B 21 Walstraat teinstr 22 Fon Oude Gentweg Cornelis Koning Albert I-laan GENTPOORT Zonnekemeers Walplein de Moorstraat

Westmeers 13 t Oostmeers a Joris a Boudewijn Ra tr Dumeryplein f s Joseph BogaertstraatAndreas Van Voldenstr. rsho rd eve aa Wydtsstraat 05 W g ijn Visspaanstraat W Noordstraat Begijnhof Katelijnestraat vestraat Ringvaart BEGIJNHOF 04 Wijngaard- 08 Rodenonnenpark Gentpoortvest Koning Garsoenstr. plein WALK 1 Sentillenhof Albertpark t 02 02 aa Stationslaan tr s t g Minnewater aa Sulferbergstraat n tr Rodenonnenstr. ti als s ena e Ars » START V Unesco- Buiten Gentpoortvest rotonde Eiland Concertgebouw, Prof. Dr. J. Sebrechtsstraat ‘t Zand retawen Colettijnenstraat Jan Blockxstraat Ruusbroecstraat Oostmeers »Colettijnen- DISTANCE niM Minnewaterpark hof KATELIJNEPOORT st 3 km eve B lijn u ate it Begijnenvest K e Edward d n » FINISH e Denestraat B e Bargeweg gi jne Poertorenpark Saint John’s Hospital ORT n BOEVERIEPO v Stations- e s 14 Jan STATION plein t 01 Moritoenstraat Hendrik Ketsbruggestraat WC AlternativePulinxpad route t es WC ev 01 eplein ijn rg l Baron R 1500 Ba ate n K Centrum Buite Camille van de Vrijheidsstraat Station KANAALEILAND Walle de uzettelaan Hendrik + GRATIS Chantrellstraat Ghelckestraat Brugmansstraat BUS Van Oyestr.

Koning Albert I-laan Ter Lake Marie Popelin- plantsoen

t a K Vaartdijkstraat - t n i Wantestraat S S Barrièrestraat From ’t Zand to turn into Zuidzandstraat, the first Simon Stevinplein street on the right. Saint Saviour’s This walk starts at the tourist office Cathedral 23 looms up ahead on your ’t Zand (Concertgebouw). right after three hundred metres. ’t Zand is dominated by the Concert Hall Bruges’ oldest parish church is located 18 , one of Bruges’ most talked-about on a lower level than the present buildings. Clear-cut proof that this Zuidzandstraat, which is situated on an World Heritage city isn’t afraid of the fu- old sand ridge. What’s more, in the ture. As of September 2017 the Concert Middle Ages people simply threw their Hall – Open House 18 will take you be- refuse out onto the street where it was 34 hind the scenes and right to the very top then flattened by passing carts and of this magnificent building, where you coaches. This raised the street level can find an interactive space for sound even further. Inside Saint Saviour’s, the art. You can also enjoy the wonderful church tower’s wooden rafters can be view over the Bruges skyline. Don’t for- lit. The cathedral treasury displays in- get to drop in at the tourist office teresting copper memorial plaques, fine ’t Zand (Concertgebouw) on the ground examples of gold and silver and paint- floor: here you will find all the necessary ings by Dieric Bouts, Hugo van der Goes tourist information as well as expert ad- and Pieter Pourbus. vice on all cultural events. Continue past the cathedral and Leave ’t Zand (Concertgebouw) be- walk down Sint-Salvatorskerkhof hind you, walk along the square and immediately on the right. Turn left BRUGES, PROUD WORLD HERITAGE CITY HERITAGE WORLD PROUD BRUGES, 18 into Sint-Salvatorskoorstraat. The Return to the Belfry 05 and walk Simon Stevinplein opens up at the down Breidelstraat, a traffic-free alley end of this street. on the corner at the left. Continue This attractive square, lined with cosy to the Burg square. restaurant terraces in summertime, is Along the way on your right you will no- named after Simon Stevin, a wellknown tice De Garre, a narrow alley. This may Flemish-Dutch scientist. His gracious be the narrowest street in Bruges (try statue naturally takes centre stage. walking side by side here!), it neverthe- less boasts a fair number of cosy cafés. Markt and Burg The Burg is the most majestic square in Continue down Oude Burg, a street in the city, so take your time to admire its 35

the right-hand corner of the square. grandeur. The main character in this BRUGES, PROUD WORLD HERITAGE CITY Before long you will see the Cloth Halls medieval story is the City Hall 08 43 09 on your left. These belong to the (1376-1420), one of the oldest city halls Belfry 05 . You’re allowed to cross the in the Netherlands and a Gothic exam- halls’ imposing inner court between ple for all its brothers and sisters that 8.00 a.m. and 6.00 p.m. during the week, were built later, from Louvain to Aude- and between 9.00 a.m. and 6.00 p.m. on narde and Brussels. Having admired its Saturday. The Markt is at the other end exterior, enter the impressive Gothic of the yard. If the gate is closed, turn Hall and gaze in admiration at the poly- back and walk down Hallestraat, which chrome floating ribs of the vaulted ceil- runs parallel to the Halls. ing. Hiding on the right-hand side of Walk 2 (see pages 45-47) comments this Gothic monument is the Basilica of more extensively on Markt. the Holy Blood 01 . It was originally dedicated to both Our Lady and Saint

BURG SQUARE: AN ARCHITECTURAL SYNOPSIS Art lovers have already noticed that the Burg projects a wonderful cross-section of stunning architectural styles. It is, indeed, a summing-up in one place of all the styles that have caught our imagination throughout the various centuries. From Romanesque (Saint Basil’s Church) and Gothic (City Hall) by way of Renaissance (Civil Registry) and Baroque (Deanery) to Classicism (Mansion of the Liberty of Bruges). There’s no need to go and dash all around Bruges to see it all! past beneath your feet. Discover the history of the city through different kinds of search and hands-on activities. A fascinating mix of archaeological finds, riddles, replicas and reconstruc- tions shed light on daily life in times gone by, from the home to the work- place and from birth till death. OPEN > Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30 a.m.- 01 08 Adornesdomein – 12.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m.-5.00 p.m., last 74 Jeruzalemkapel (Adornes admission: 12.00 p.m. and 4.30 p.m. (open Estate – Jerusalem Chapel) on Easter Monday and Whit Monday) The Adornes domain consists of the ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > 15th-century Jerusalem Chapel (a jewel 1/1, 25/5 (1.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.) and 25/12 of medieval architecture built by this PRICE > € 4.00; 65+ and youngsters aged rich merchant family), the Adornes 12 to 25: € 3.00; children under 12: free mansion and a series of adjacent alms- INFO > Mariastraat 36A, tel. +32 (0)50 houses. In the multimedia museum, you 44 87 43, www.museabrugge.be can follow in the footsteps of Anselm Adornes and learn all about the world in 03 Arentshuis which he lived. You will go on a pilgrim- In this elegant 17th-century mansion with age, take part in a joust and meet many its picturesque garden, the work of the notable persons of the time, such as the versatile British artist Frank Brangwyn King of Scotland, the Lords of Gruuthuse (1867-1956) is on display on the top floor. and the Dukes of Burgundy. Brangwyn was both a graphic artist and OPEN > Monday to Saturday, 10.00 a.m.- a painter, as well as a designer of car- 5.00 p.m. pets, furniture and ceramics. The MUSEUMS, PLACES OF INTEREST AND ATTRACTIONS AND INTEREST OF PLACES MUSEUMS, ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > ground floor is the setting for temporary All (Belgian) public holidays plastic art exhibitions. PRICE > € 7.00; 65+: € 5.00; youngsters aged 7 to 25: € 3.50; children under 7: free INFO > Peperstraat 3A, tel. +32 (0)50 33 88 83, www.adornes.org

02 Archeologiemuseum (Archaeological Museum) This museum presents the unwritten history of Bruges. Its motto: feel your OPEN > Tuesday to Sunday, 9.30 a.m.- PRICE > Double church: free; treasury: 5.00 p.m., last admission: 4.30 p.m. (open € 2.50; children under 13: free on Easter Monday and Whit Monday) INFO > Burg 13, tel. +32 (0)50 33 67 92, ADDITIONAL CLOSING DATES > www.holyblood.com 1/1, 25/5 (1.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.) and 25/12 PRICE > € 4.00; 65+ and youngsters 02 02 04 Begijnhof aged 12 to 25: € 3.00; children under 12: (Beguinage) free; combination ticket with Groeninge The ‘Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaarde’ Museum possible (see page 84) with its white-coloured house fronts, INFO > Dijver 16, tel. +32 (0)50 44 87 43, tranquil convent garden and beguinage www.museabrugge.be museum was founded in 1245. This little 75

piece of world heritage was once the MUSEUMS, PLACES OF INTEREST AND ATTRACTIONS 01 Basiliek van het home of the beguines, emancipated Heilig Bloed (Basilica of lay-women who nevertheless led a pious the Holy Blood) and celibate life. Today the beguinage is The double church, dedicated to Our inhabited by nuns of the Order of St. Lady and Saint Basil in the 12th century Benedict and several Bruges women and a basilica since 1923, consists of a who have decided to remain unmarried. lower church that has maintained its In the Beguine’s house, you can still get a Romanesque character and a good idea of what day-to-day life was like neo-Gothic upper church, in which the in the 17th century. relic of the Holy Blood is preserved. OPEN > Beguinage: daily, 6.30 a.m.- The treasury, with numerous valuable 6.30 p.m.; Beguine’s house: Monday to works of art, is also worth a visit. Saturday, 10.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m.; Sunday OPEN > Daily, 9.30 a.m.-12.00 p.m. and 2.30 p.m.-5.00 p.m. 2.00 p.m.-5.00 p.m.; during the period PRICE > Beguinage: free; Beguine’s 16/11 to 31/3 closed on Wednesday after- house: € 2.00; 65+: € 1.50; children noon. Veneration of the relic: daily, 11.30 aged 8 to 12 and students (on display of a.m.-12.00 p.m. and 2.00 p.m.-4.00 p.m. a valid student card): € 1.00 What’s on the programme in 2017?

The list below shows some of the most important events taking place in Bruges. You can also find the same details in the monthly event calendar that you can pick up free of charge from the tourist information offices on the Markt (Historium), ’t Zand (Concertgebouw) and in the Railway station. And, of course, for a detailed events ca- lendar you can always consult the website at www.visitbruges.be.

Bach Academie Wintervonken (Winter Sparks) 96 17/1/2017 – 22/1/2017 10/2/2017 and 11/2/2017 Bach learned his music at his mother’s Winter Sparks brings warmth and convi- knee, but in 1705 he set off on foot to viality to the Burg square. The fourth edi- Lübeck to become an apprentice of tion of this winter festival once again Buxtehude, whose flawless piano tech- guarantees scintillating street theatre, nique and Abendmusiken concerts were atmospheric concerts and heart- without a doubt an enormous source of warming fire installations. inspiration to the young Bach. The se- INFO > www.wintervonken.be venth Bruges Bach Academy explores the musical richness of the Protestant B Major!

CULTURE AND AMUSEMENT AND CULTURE Reformation, with a focus on choral 1/3/2017 – 5/3/2017 works. B Major! is a new biannual music festival INFO > www.concertgebouw.be (You can in which all the professional musical ac- read more about Bach and early music in tors in Bruges join forces. The result is the interview with Albert Edelman on an exciting five-day programme, speci- pages 120-123) ally made in the city for the city. INFO > www.bmajor.be Brugs Bierfestival (Bruges Beer Festival) More Music! 4/2/2017 and 5/2/2017 12/4/2017 – 15/4/2017 For a whole weekend the courtyard of The Bruges Concert Hall and the Cactus the Belfry, the city halls and the Market Music Centre once again join forces to Square are the place to be for anyone make More Music!, an exciting encoun- who wants to learn more about Belgian ter between diverse and contrasting beers, old and new! The festival brings musical worlds. The result is an intri- together more than 80 Belgian brewe- guing total concept that takes the visitor ries, which account for the production on an adventurous four-day voyage of of more than 360 different beers. musical discovery. INFO > www.brugsbierfestival.be INFO > www.moremusicfestival.be Mooov filmfestival 19/4/2017 – 27/4/2017 This film festival, screened in Cinema Lumière and Cinema Liberty, shows the best new films from Africa, Asia and South America. The programme covers both artistically innovative movies and films with a social conscience. INFO > www.mooov.be CARILLON CONCERTS Throughout the year, you can enjoy BruTaal free, live carillon concerts in Bruges 97

5/5/2017 – 14/5/2017 on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sun- CULTURE AND AMUSEMENT A new biannual literary festival that in- days from 11.00 a.m. to 12.00 p.m. vites international writers to offer their From mid-June to mid-September, own views of Bruges in words. You can evening concerts also take place on discover the resulting stories, manifes- Mondays and Wednesdays from 9.00 tos and ‘urban legends’ by following a p.m. to 10.00 p.m. The inner courtyard special route that leads through the of the Belfry is a good place to listen. heart of the city. INFO > www.carillon-brugge.be INFO > www.brutaalbrugge.be

Meifoor (May Fair) Dwars door Brugge 5/5/2017 – 28/5/2017 (Running through Bruges) For three fun-filled weeks some May 2017 90 fairground attractions ‘take over’ About 7,000 runners set off on a 15 km ’t Zand, the Beursplein, the Koning route through the city. This unique run- Albertpark and the Simon Stevinplein. ning event through the historic centre of Bruges is no longer just popular with Memling in Context local people, but now attracts competi- A fresh look at Hans Memling’s paintings tors from all over the world. For the of the Saint John’s Hospital lesser gods, there is a 5 km course and 11/5/2017 – 8/10/2017 a Kids Run is organized for children up The best way to learn about the mas- to 12 years of age. terpieces of Hans Memling, one of the INFO > www.brugge.be greatest of the Flemish primitives, is to view them within the context of the Budapest Festival wider collection of the St. John’s Hospi- 18/5/2017 – 20/5/2017 tal. This new presentation sheds new A three-day festival of music with con- light on his remarkably rich oeuvre. certs by the renowned Budapest Festival INFO > www.museabrugge.be Orchestra, conducted by Iván Fischer. Bruges: World Heritage city Sonia Papili reveals the Italian side of Bruges

During the week, the Italian Sonia Papili studies the North Sea with academic sobriety; during the weekend she guides her fellow countrymen with great passion around her adopted city. A passion that began gradually some eleven years ago, but now burns more brightly than ever. ID-KIT Name: Sonia Papili Nationality: Italian Date of birth: 17 May 1972 Living in Bruges since 2006. Sonia is a geologist with the Ministry of Defence and a tourist guide in Bruges.

Two geologists – him attached to the ty and temperament. And he was right: University of , her attached to the Bruges really is my city!’ 105

University of Rome – who met on a ship In the meantime, Sonia learnt Dutch BRUGES: WORLD HERITAGE CITY in Istanbul to discuss climate change: and started work here as a geologist. there are worse ways to start a During her citizenship programme, she long-distance relationship. For three became more and more curious about years, the pair commuted back and the history of her new home town. ‘Dur- forth between Italy and , before ing the language course they told us a finally deciding to settle in Bruges. little bit about the history of the place. ‘I had only been in Bruges once before,’ This intrigued me and so I decided to says Sonia. ‘I was much more familiar follow a three-year course to become with Ghent, but my husband thought an official guide in Bruges.’ that Bruges better suited my personali-

‘I was much more familiar with Ghent, but my husband thought that Bruges better suited my personality and temperament. And he was right: Bruges really is my city!’

WHY BRUGES IS A WORLD HERITAGE CITY In 1998, the Bruges Beguinage was recognized as a World Heritage site. A year later, the Belfry received similar recognition. In 2000, this was extended to cover the entire city centre. Since 2009, the Holy Blood Procession has been listed as an item of immaterial World Heritage. Bruges also has a valuable and impressive architectural patrimony and is a fine example of an architecturally harmonious city. In particular, Bruges is famed for its Gothic style buildings in brick. In addi- tion, its authentic and organically developed medieval urban fabric has been per- fectly preserved and it is also the ‘birthplace’ of the Flemish primitives. In other words, reasons enough for UNESCO to label Bruges as a ‘World Heritage city’. The other Flemish historical cities

Antwerp (Antwerpen) 82 km ges and (journey time: ca. It is hard to describe Antwerp in a single 1.30 hours; www.belgianrail.be). word. This historic city has so much to 146 offer: a beautiful cathedral and numer- Brussels (Brussel) 88 km ous imposing churches, a magnificent The whole world comes together in Brus- Central Station, the ground-breaking sels, with a different continent around Museum on the River (MAS), the tranquil every corner. It is a city bursting with life, Rubens House, a delightful sculpture from the exotic Matonge quarter to the garden (Middelheim), a zoo with a history stately elegance of the European institu- and so much more. Antwerp is also Bel- tions. The capital of Belgium has a vi- gium’s fashion capital, home to many in- brancy like no other and the formality of ternationally renowned designers. That its ‘hard’ metropolitan structure is sof- is why in the Scheldt city you will find tened by the authentic, working-class dozens of exclusive boutiques, rubbing ambiance of its more popular districts. In shoulders with fun bric-a-brac shops the shadow of the majestic Market where you can browse for hours: it’s Square, Manneken-Pis is permanently every fashionista’s dream! Not surpris- peeing. And this diverse city even knows

THE OTHER FLEMISH HISTORICAL CITIES HISTORICAL FLEMISH OTHER THE ingly, the local ‘Antwerpenaars’ – who how to reconcile the chic sophistication of are fairly loud by nature – are extremely the Zavel with the folksy informality of the proud of their city. Vossenplein. Royalty watchers rush INFO > www.visitantwerpen.be; there is eagerly to the Paleizenplein, art lovers a direct train connection between Bru- can do their thing at one of the more than hundred museums and galleries, such as twisted trunks add to the charm of the the Magritte Museum, the BOZAR (Muse- setting. You can also experience their um of Fine Arts) or the Horta Museum, beauty from the water. The nostalgic foodies hurry to the numerous food tem- paddle steamer Lamme Goedzak travels ples, and vintage-lovers climb to the top leisurely and in style to and fro between of the Atomium. And in the city where the small medieval town and Bruges’ both Tintin and the Smurfs were born, Noorweegse Kaai (Norwegian Quay). comic lovers will have their every wish And every second Sunday of the month, fulfilled, with more than 50 comic-strip Damme is transformed into a book cen- walls and a renowned Comics Museum. tre, as booksellers from near and far INFO > visit.brussels; there is come together to display their wares! 147

a direct train connection between INFO > www.toerismedamme.be; sched- THE OTHER FLEMISH HISTORICAL CITIES Bruges and Bruxelles-Central (Brus- uled bus no. 43 (not on Saturday, Sunday sels-Central, journey time: ca. 1.00 - and public holidays, see www.delijn.be 1.15 hours; www.belgianrail.be). for the time schedule), bus stop: Damme Plaats; or by the paddle steam- Damme 6 km er Lamme Goedzak, www.bootdamme- To the north-east of Bruges lies the brugge.be (For more information see charming town of Damme. Until the silt- page 67). You can also easily cycle to ing up of the tidal inlet Zwin, Damme Damme (for bicycle rental points see pag- was the transhipment port of Bruges. To es 12-13) or hire a scooter to ride there reach the literary home of Tijl Uilen- (see pages 20-21 for scooter rental points). spiegel (Owlglass), you drive straight along the banks of the Damse Vaart Ghent (Gent) 39 km (Damme Canal), which is without doubt No other people are as stubborn and as one of the most beautiful pieces of na- self-willed as the people of Ghent – or the ture in all Belgium. The canal is lined Gentenaars, as they are known. It is built with magnificent poplars, some of which into their genes. In the Middle Ages, the are over 100 years old. Their wind- ‘Gentenaars’ revolted against Emperor