REGIONAL NOTES e

KARRAR HAIDRI Final Final Report of Expeditions Visiting Visiting During 2009

Year Year 2009 has been a very bleak s巴ason for Mountaineering in Pakistan .The cuπent security state of 出e country country has adversely affected the inflow of Tourists in Pakistan. This year a total numb巴r of 63 teams teams originally applied for attempting various peaks but 18 withdrew 出巴 ir applications leaving 45 teams who have been gr叩ted permit to climb various peaks of their choice, 02 more teams who had been granted permit permit to climb peaks did not turn up for climbing, thus leaving just 43 teams in the field . Out of these four four teams were granted permission to climb 02 peaks each and one team to climb 03 peaks, as such overall overall 49 attempts were made to climb various p巴aks by 343 climbers including 54 climbers attempting attempting 2 peaks each thus totaling the numbers on attempting climbers to 397. Out of these 17 exp巴ditions have returned successful by putting 72 climbers on the summits of various peaks including including o4 climbers summitting 02 peaks each whereas 32 team s have returned unsuccessful. Unluckily Unluckily 03 climbers lost lives their whil巴 descending from the summit after summitting the p巴ak,02 on and 01 on G-11 wmle other 03 climbers lost their lives wmle attempting K-2, and Latok-1.

A brief resum巴 of expeditions on various peaks is given below:

K・2 (8,611m) Year Year 2009 has been an unluckily year for K-2 and Broad Peak climbers. As many as 55 climb巴rs of 06 t巴ams tried to climb the savage K-2 but none could succeed in his efforts . Whereas one Italian Italian mountaineer Mr . Michele Fait lost his life in an attempt to climb this peak on 29 Jun 2009.

Broad Peak (8,047m) 78 climbers of 08 different teams their tried luck to surmount the Broad Peak but only one mountaineer mountaineer Mr . Joseph Perman巴 Sabat巴 of Spain managed to re a ch the summit on 27 July 2009 but not before before it had taken the life of an Italian female mount aineer Ms. on 23 July 2009 .

Nanga Parbat (8,125m) On the other hand year 2009 proved to be a lucky year for climbing on Nanga Parbat and G-1. Al tho昭h just 03 expeditions were launched on N anga Parbat luckily all of these 民turned successful by putting putting 22 out of 41 climbers on top ofNanga Parbat including 04 Pakistani climbers. But once again it lived lived upto its nick name “ The Killer Mounta in" by claiming the lives of 02 climbers .One of them being Mr . Wolfgang Koelblinger from Aus出a 組d 出e oth巴r Ms Go Mi-Sun from ,incidentally both of of them died while descending from th巴 summit after successfully s ummitting the peak on 10 July 2009.

It It will be of great interest for the mountain lovers to know that Nanga Parbat was the 11 出 peak out of 14 peaks peaks above 8,000 m in the world so f紅 climbed by Ms .Go Mi-Sun the strong lady form Korea. In a bid to to complete her tally of 14 she peaks, climbed 04 peaks above 8,000 m this year, 03 in and 01 in Pakistan .As such now only 03 peaks ;i.e .G-1 , G-11 and Annapurana w巴r巴 left to be summitted by her to make her dream come true , but unluckily did destiny not spare her to do so.

Gasherbrum-1 (8,068m) All All five expeditions launched on G-1 were successful in putting their 18 members out of 51 on top of the 141 e JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2010 invincible invincible G-I without any incidence, including 02 Pakistani climbers.

Gasherbrum-11 (8,035m) Four Four out of nine expeditions launched on G-II return巴 d successful by putting 11 climbers out of 98 on top of of G-II. Unluckily Mr . Luis Maria Barbero, leader of Spanish expedition lost his life while descending descending form the summit, after successful climb on 20 Jul 2009 .

Spantik Spantik (7,027m) Four Four out of six expeditions launched on Spantik returned successful by putting 20 climbers on top of this peak including one Pakistani. Two teams hav巴 r巴turned unsuccessful.

Latok-1 Latok-1 (7,215m) Two teams their tried luck on 出js rock and ice pyramid but unluckily none could succeed and the Spanish Expedition Expedition lost the life of Mr . Oscar Perez Javirre during an unsucc巴 ssful attempt on 12 August 2009.

Other Expeditions All All oth巴r nine expeditions launched on K-6, K-7, G－皿， G-IV, G-VI, Kunyang Chish, Pumari Chish, Raka Poshi Poshi and Tahu Rutum have returned unsuccessful.

Fatalities Fatalities Following Following 06 climbers lost lives their on various :

・ 1 Michele Fait of died on on 29 Jun 2009

・ イ－1 Luis Maria Barbero of Spain died on G-II on 20 Jul 2009 (summit) 1Luvv・ Ms. Cristina Castagna of Italy died on Broad Peak on 23 Jul 2009 ・冒且 Wolfgang Koelblinger of died on Nanga Parbat on 10 Jul 2009 (summit) Ms .Go Mi-Sun of South Korea died on Nanga Parbat on 10 Jul 2009 (summit)

・ tv－ Oscar Perez Javierre of Spain died on Latok-I on 12 Aug 2009.

142 REGIONAL NOT ES e

A tabulat巴d breakdown of expeditions on variou s peaks and nationality wise br巴akdown of summiteers summiteers is attached as Annex-A, Nationality wise breakdown of climbers attempting vario us peaks peaks as Annex-B to thi s report. Any error or omission as well as any suggestio n will be we lc omed.

STATE OF EXPEDITIONS ON VARIOUS PEAKS DURING 2009

Name of Total No 目 of ' Total ' Successful ' Unsuccessfu l Peak i Expeditions iClimber i Expedit i ons 巾~2ch09hori“ユ 日…6………守山55 .t '… 3 + 41 3 ート… … ド … 山日 吋山“ 山川 ふ … 8 78 1 7 5 51 5 18 9 98 11 ………一 nb ………v XJ Rd ス／ ←ぃ… … F33B 」…フ』 －、… 4 2

3 5

内 d

quω

- ウ r 49

NATIONALITY WISE BREAK-DOWN OF SUMMITTEERS-2009 Country Country Nanga Broad S/No . G-1 G-11 Name Pa rbat Pea k

1 5 目 : ~~・. , ~：f;r iands Total Total 22

143 JAPANESE eJAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2010

NATIONALITY WISE BREAK-DOWN OF CLIMBERS ATTEMPTING VARIOUS PEAKS IN PAKISTAN DURING-2009 Attempting Attempting Male Male Female Total Successful second second Peak nu1 01 門〆』…1

……nu…2 ……

nununU4E一 …1 … … … 61 14 01 6. 64 7. 7. 8. 9: fo. fo. 0001318177521318 01 二 63 j~ . :Ecuador …………………山… ………山… …山 一 12: 12: Fin iand … 一 13. 13. France 。… 位 … … 一 一 2 位… j 4.・：； ~~ r円a. ~Y . 一 …… … … 15. 15. :Iran 3 om 一 … … 16:… i 1ta1y O H …… …………引 17. 17. T Japan 1 ω … … 山 18. 18. i kazak 0 一 … … … ……… 一 一 19. 19. ,Nepal 1 一 … … … … … 一 26. 26. iNetherla 0 刊 21 . :New O 22 : Pakistan O山 引 23. 23. Poi and 24 : Portu~ai 25. 25. Russia 01 6. SiAfrica 66 nUA 2'7: 2'7: S 7Korea 品寸 叫 1 28. 28. nunu門〆』 一 J29 . Spain 41 36 . Swden

4En44 nu 一 ………円〆』 … ……………………… 位一 … ……… nu1 一 … … 41Fbrh 別部 … … 匂凶，ー‘7

Following Following climbers summitted 2 Peaks each ：ー S/No . Name ： じountry N竺nw：＜~~r凶t j 一一 9土 … d-1i Ms . OhEl.ln ~ Sl.l而 i sauthka伝a 10.07.2009 63 .08 .2009 2. Dawa On~u Sherpa J Nepal 16 .67:2669 I 63.68 .2669 3. Pamba Tshirin~ Sherpa Nepai 16 .67:2669 i 63.68.2069 4. 86戸h向frov l su19aria 26.67 :2669 01 .08 .2009

144 REGIONAL NOTES e

Editor’S Note These These results were compiled on the basis of the certified information provided by the expedition leaders leaders at the debriefing sessions with Alpine Club of Pakistan upon return j守仰i the mountains. But there seem to be some misinformation αbout success_かl climbers . On Broad Peak ; no on e rea ched the true summit of the mountαin in 2009. On Gasherbrum II; Ueli Steck (Swit zerland) summited on 9 July and Sechu Sechu Lopez (Spain) followed on 2 August. All the other climbers may have turned back before reaching reaching the highest point of the peak.

145