Karakorum 2016 Expeditions

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MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITION LIST 2016 Sl. Name of Expedition Peak No. of members Leader Name Date of Arrival Remarks 1. French Gasherbrum II G-II 2 Mr. Dr. Philippe 31 May 2016 Expedition 2016 Arvis 2. Slovenian Inernational Broad Broad Peak &G- 3 Mr. Ales Cesen 16 Jun 2016 Peak & Gasherbrum IV IV Expedition 2016 3. Snowland,s Ghamubar Zom Ghamubar Zom 2 Mr.Robert 15 Jun 2016 Expeditin 2016 Thomas Gleich 4. Nancy,s +Ralf,s Karakoram Gasherbrum VI & 2 Mr. Ralf 03 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 Parqpa Kangri Dumovits 5. Alpine International G-I & G-I & G-II 8 Mr. Igor 16 Jun 2016 G-II Expedition 2016 Mitroshenkov 6 K & P International K-2 and K-II & Broad Peak 13 Mr. Karl Robert 12 Jun 2016 Broad Peak Expedition 2016 Kobler 7 Sherpa 14 Peak International K-II & Broad Peak 44 Mr.Chhang Dawa 15 Jun 2016 K-2 & Broad Peak Expedition Sherpa 2016 8. USA Ogre-II Expedition 2016 Ogre-II 2 Mr.Kyle 26 Jul 2016 Dempster 9. Lela’s International Broad Broad Peak 9 Mr.Alb erto 10 Jun 2016 Peak Expedition 2016 Zerain Berasategi 10. Lela’s International K-2 K-2 10 Mr. Jerzy 15 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 Natkanski 11. International Nanga Parbat Nanga Purbat 2 Mr. Carlo 05 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 Orlando 12. Korean Gyeongbuk Alpine K-2 14 Mr. Jae Seog Park 12 Jun 2016 Federation K-2 Expdition 2016 13 . USA K-2 United Expedition K-2 10 Ms. Vanessa O 10 Jun 2016 2016 Brien 14. KTP USA International G-I & G-I & G-II 5 Mr.Colin Mac 19 Jun 2016 G-II Expedition 2016 Miller 15. British International K-2 K-2 7 Diahanne 12 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 Gilbert 16. International K2 & Broad K-2 & Broad Peak 3 Ms. Cleonice 05 Jun 2016 Peak Expedition 2016 Pachec o Weidlich 17. USA International K-2 K-2 12 Mr. Carrett 12 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 Christian Madison 18. International Broad Peak Broad Peak 7 Ms. Christine 25 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 Patricia Burk 19. International UK – US – Swiss Lupghar Sar 3 Mr. Bruce 30 May 2016 – Shispare – Lupghar Normand Expedition 2016 20. Nanga Purbat Expdition 2016 Nanga Parbat 3 Mr. Thomas 16 Jun 2016 Seidensticker 21. International G-I & G-II G-I & G-II 6 Mr. Steffen 16 Jun2016 Expedition 2016 Helmut Otto 22. UK Spantik Expedition 2016 Spntik 4 Mr. Christopher 20 Jul 2016 23. International G-I & G-II G-I & G-II 9 Mr. Grzegorz 15 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 Stefan Bielejec 24. Korean Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat 3 Mr. Kim Hongbin 20 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 25. Korean Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat 4 Mr. Kim Migon 15 Jun 2016 Expedition 2016 26. Lela,s International Nanga Nanga Parbat 4 Mr. Fernando 04 Jun 2016 Parbat Expedition 2016 Jose 27. Shispare Sar Expedition 2016 Shispare Sar 2 Mr. Russell 08 Jun 2016 Crosby Willis 28. SKP-K2 Internatiional K-2 9 Mr.Lamoureux 15 Jun 2016 Expeditiona 2016 Benoit 29. Latok-I, Latok –III and Ogree- Latok-I, Latok-III 6 Mr. Thomas 13 Aug 2016 II Expedition 2016 & Ogree-II Huber 30. Iranian G-II Expedition 2016 G-II 4 Mr. Amir Talebi 15 Jun 2016 31. Gasherbrum-I Expedition G-I 3 Mr. Mardk 05 Jul 2016 2016 Holeeek 32. Switzerland Muztagh Tower Muztagh Tower 2 Mr. Berg Felix 04 Jul 2016 Expedition 2016 33 Diran Peak Expedition Diran 4 Miss Irena Mark 08 Jul 2016.

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Age of Crystallization and Cooling of the K2 Gneiss in the Baltoro
Journal of the Geological Society, London, Vol. 147, 1990, pp. 603-606, 3 figs 2 tables. Printed in Northern Ireland SHORT PAPER evidence of Precambrian inheritance (Parrish & Tirrull989). Earlier pre-collision granites within theKarakoram Age of crystallization and cooling of the batholith include the Muztagh Tower unit (Fig. 1) composed K2 gneiss in the Baltoro Karakoram of biotite and hornblende-rich foliated granodiorites, which gave three K-Ar hornblende ages spanning 82-75 f 3 Ma M.P. SEARLE', R. R. PARRISH', (Searle et al. 1989), and the Hushegneiss, SE of the Baltoro R.TIRRUL** & D.C. REX3 area, which has a U-Pb zircon age of 145 f 5 Ma and two 'Department of Earth Sciences, Oxford University, 40Ar-39Arages of 203 f 0.6 Ma and 204 f 1.4 Ma (Searle et Parks Road, Oxford OX1 3PR al. 1989). Further west,hornblende-bearing granodiorites 'Geological Survey of Canada, 601 Booth Street, from the Hunza plutonic unit gave a U-Pb age of 95 f 4 Ottawa, Canada KlA OE8 (LeFort et al. 1983) and similar granites at the Darkot Pass Department of Earth Sciences, Leeds University, gave a Rb-Sr isochron age of 111 f 6 (Debon et al. 1987). Leeds, LS2 9JT These pre-collision granites of the Karakoram batholith all have calc-alkaline geochemical affinities and have been interpretedas Andean-type granitesalong thesouthern continental margin of the Asian plate, related to the Themountains of K2 (8611 m)and Broad Peak (8047111) in the northward subduction of Tethyan oceanic crust (LeFort et Baltoro (northernPakistan) are composedof Karakoram al.
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Annapurna I, East Ridge, Third Ascent. One of the Most Nota
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Expedition Everest 2004 & 2005
A L G O N Q U I N C O L L E G E Small World Big Picture Expedition Everest 2004 & 2005 “A Season on Everest” Articles Published in the Ottawa Citizen 21st March 2004 – 29th June 2004 8th March 2005 – 31st May 2005 Back into thin air: Ben Webster is back on Mount Everest, determined to get his Canadian team to the top By Ron Corbett Sunday, March 21, 2004 Page: C5 (Weekly Section) The last time Ben Webster stood on the summit of Mount Everest, the new millennium had just begun. He stepped onto the roof of the world with Nazir Sabir, a climber from Pakistan, and stared at the land far below. The date was May 17, 2000. Somewhere beneath him, in a camp he could not see, were the other members of the Canadian Everest Expedition, three climbers from Quebec who would not reach the summit of the world's tallest mountain. As Webster stood briefly on the peak -- for no one stays long on that icy pinnacle -- stories were already circulating he had left the other climbers behind, so driven was he to become the first Canadian of the new millennium to reach the top of Everest. He would learn of the stories later, and they would sting. Accusation followed nasty accusation, the worst perhaps being that the other climbers had quit on him, so totalitarian had they found his leadership. When Webster descended from the mountain, he walked into a firestorm of negative publicity that bothers him to this day. At times in the ensuing four Julie Oliver, The Citizen's Weekly Shaunna Burke, a U of O doctoral student, Andrew Lock, an Australian, years he would shrug, and say simply he was the and Hector Ponce de Leon, of Mexico, will attempt a team assault on strongest of the four climbers, the only one able to Everest in May, led by Ottawa climber Ben Webster.
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2007 Shared Summits K2 Expedition
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Victory and Tragedy on Broad Peak K. Glasek and J
53 Base Camp with K2 behind (This al/d I/ext photo: ). Fuel/ski) Victory and tragedy on Broad Peak Kazimierz otasek and Janusz FerellSki (Translation: K. Gfasek and A. Kus) In the summer ot 1975, the econd Wrocb.w High Mountaineering Expedition Himalaya-Karakoram 1975 was active in the region of the Baltoro Glacier. It was sent by the High Mountaineering Club of Wrocl'aw with the participa tion of the Academic Alpine Club of Wr cYa\ and The Sudetes Group of GOPR (Mountain Voluntary Re cue ervice). The Voivode of Wroc.raw province, Mr Zbigniew adratowski, assumed the role of patron to the expedition. The expedition received help in organization from the country authorities and from industrial firms in Lower Silesia. The members: J. Ferenski (leader), S. Aniol, T. Barbacki, R. Bebak, K. Grazek, W. Jonak (doctor), J. Juszkiewicz, Z. Jurkowski, M. Kt;:sicki, J. Kulis, B. I owaczyk, M. Sajuog, A. Sikorski, 129 VICTORY AND TRAGEDY ON BROAD PEAK A. Skoczylas, J. Woznica. Pakistani liaison officer Capt. Abdul Ghani. After a fortnight of waiting for a flight from lslamabad to Baltistan our expedition landed on 13 June in Skardu. From the village of Baha on the river Braldu, the expedition accompanied by 160 porters started on 15 June. On 29 June, it reached the Concordia Plateau. After consecutive strikes of the porters here the members of the exped ition started heavy ferry-trips from this place to the Base Camp on the middle moraine of Godwin Austen Glacier (4950m). On 4 July K. Gtazek, B. Nowaczyk and A.
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Jan-Vol11-141-145.Pdf
REGIONAL NOTES e KARRAR HAIDRI Final Final Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visiting Visiting Pakistan During 2009 Year Year 2009 has been a very bleak s巴ason for Mountaineering in Pakistan .The cuπent security state of 出e country country has adversely affected the inflow of Tourists in Pakistan. This year a total numb巴r of 63 teams teams originally applied for attempting various peaks but 18 withdrew 出巴 ir applications leaving 45 teams who have been gr叩ted permit to climb various peaks of their choice, 02 more teams who had been granted permit permit to climb peaks did not turn up for climbing, thus leaving just 43 teams in the field . Out of these four four teams were granted permission to climb 02 peaks each and one team to climb 03 peaks, as such overall overall 49 attempts were made to climb various p巴aks by 343 climbers including 54 climbers attempting attempting 2 peaks each thus totaling the numbers on attempting climbers to 397. Out of these 17 exp巴ditions have returned successful by putting 72 climbers on the summits of various peaks including including o4 climbers summitting 02 peaks each whereas 32 team s have returned unsuccessful. Unluckily Unluckily 03 climbers lost lives their whil巴 descending from the summit after summitting the p巴ak,02 on Nanga Parbat and 01 on G-11 wmle other 03 climbers lost their lives wmle attempting K-2, Broad Peak and Latok-1. A brief resum巴 of expeditions on various peaks is given below: K・2 (8,611m) Year Year 2009 has been an unluckily year for K-2 and Broad Peak climbers.
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K2:G2 Trek Packet
K2 AND G2 RAPID ASCENT™ BASE CAMP TREKKING EXPEDITION DURATION: 16 DAYS LOCATION: PAKISTAN SKILL LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE K2 & G2 BASE CAMP TREK Expedition Details DURATION: 16 DAYS LOCATION: PAKISTAN SKILL LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE SEASON: SUMMER COST: $7,950 DIFFICULTY LEVEL DESCRIPTION: Intermediate - Technical climbing and altitude experience are not necessary but this expedition requires good physical fitness, specifically an ability to move in rugged terrain for long days. Alpenglow can happily provide physical and technical training programs to prepare for this introductory expedition. PREREQUISITES: VIEW UPCOMING TRIPS AT Previous experience at altitude greater than 5,000m, 16,400’. Prior trekking experience is highly ALPENGLOWEXPEDITIONS.COM encouraged; no technical climbing skills required. ALPENGLOWEXPEDITIONS.COM EXPEDITION DETAILS | 2 Expedition Introduction Why Trek in Pakistan? Trek through one of the worlds more impressive mountain ranges: The Karakoram. Situated in Northern Pakistan, the Karakoram boasts towering 8,000m peaks and expansive glacial valleys. Hiking through this storied mountain range instills a sense of awe in all who are fortunate enough to witness its remote and wild landscape. We’ll be trekking through this stunning mountain range to the base camps of two of the ROUTE CHOICE world’s tallest mountains. Rising from the foot We’ll accompany our Gasherbrum II climbing of the Baltoro Glacier, K2 (8,611m, 28,251’) and team, taking the same route that winds through Gasherbrum II (8,034m, 26,362) are magnificent the Karakoram until we reach the stunning mountains that are truly spectacles to behold. 8,000m peaks lining the Baltoro Glacier. We’ll Our local logistics teams and guides have then split off from the climbing team and head worked extensively in the Karakoram, making to the base camps of Broad Peak and K2.
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Dying on the 8000M Peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram
LEARNING BY (NOT) DYING ON THE 8,000M PEAKS IN THE HIMALAYA AND KARAKORAM Learning by doing is regarded as a fundamental driver of economic growth in the endogenous growth literature. Yet studies of learning by doing have examined industries for very brief periods only, and they generally use aggregate data to infer learning that may be occurring at a micro level. This study examines the history of an “industry”—Himalayan mountaineering on the peaks over 8,000m in height— over an entire century. As we are able to identify individuals taking part in climbing expeditions, we can test whether learning by doing takes place at the individual, “firm”, or industry level. We find evidence that observed increases in successful ascent rates and concomitant decreases in death, frostbite and altitude sickness rates are in part due to learning by doing at the industry level, as an increase in the cumulative experience of prior expeditions reduces the chances that a later expedition will suffer an adverse outcome, and in part due to increases in the human capital of the climbers, as an increase in climbers’ prior experience increases the probability of an expedition ascent. 1. INTRODUCTION In 1895 the British climber Albert Mummery, perhaps the finest mountaineer of his time, and five others made the first serious attempt to climb a mountain exceeding 8,000 meters in height. The mountain they chose to climb was Nanga Parbat (8,126m), in present-day Pakistan. It is one of only fourteen mountains in the world whose peaks rise above 8,000m, all of which lie in the Himalaya or Karakoram mountains of India, Nepal, Pakistan, and Tibet.
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Karakoram 1983
212 Karakoram 1983 PaulNunn Photograph 2 In Pakistan 42 mountaineering permissions were granted including a few dual applications. Most popular was Nanga Parbat with II parties, closely followed by the various Gasherbrums (14), including several dual permissions. On K2 the Italian expedition led by F. Santon was successful. It approached the mountain from China and took the N ridge route pioneered by theJapanese in 1982. From an advanced base at 4900m four high camps were established and all 20 members reached Camp 3 at 7500m. On 31 July Agostino da Polanze and Joseph Rakoncaj (32) started to climb from Camp 4 (8 lOOm) though conditions were poor with deep snow. At 20.45 they reached the summit, and descended only 60m before an enforced bivouac. Good equipment and preparation enabled them to survive and descend safely. Josepli Rakoncaj is an experienced Czech high altitude climber. Subsequently a filming party comprising of the veteran Kurt Diemberger (51) andJulie Tullis (44) reached Camp 4, but were prevented from going further by bad conditions. On the Pakistani side of K2, Basque, Spanish and British attempts were unsuccessful. The Basques tried the Abruzzi Spur, the Spanish, the W ridge and Doug Scott's party a route on the S face. On the Gasherbrums Wojciech Kurtyka (35) andJerzy Kukuczka (35) made notable alpine style ascents after a period of acclimatisation. They climbed the long SE ridge ofGasherbrum 2 through points nOOm and 7770m, bivouacking at 6500m on the Gasherbrum La and at 7300m. In this way they reached the summit ofGasherbrum 2 (8035m) on I July.
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Mount Everest Foundation Notes, 1985-86
238 Mount Everest Foundation Notes 1985-86 Edward Peck The following notes summarize reports from expeditions which have received the approval of the MEF, and this is in most cases accompanied by a grant. MEF approval is gene~ally an essential first step to seeking assistance, financial or otherwise, from other organisations. It should be noted that the MEF only 'sponsors' expeditions in exceptional circumstances, eg the 1981 Mount Kongur expedition. Copies of the full reports of these expeditions are lodged, when available, with the Alpine Club Library and the Archives section of the Royal Geographi cal Society, and may be consulted in these places. Some expeditions will already have been described in the Alpine Journal and other mountaineering periodicals. The expeditions summarized in the f.9llowing notes took place between August 1984 and August 1986. These notes are based on reports received up to 1 December 1986. North America, including Greenland and the Arctic 86/3-Salford University Expedition to Cape Farewell Area, Greenland (July-August 1986) This eight-man team claimed some 20 first ascents of minor peaks (1300-1700m) in the Cape Farewell area (60N 43W) and the second ascent (after the French in 1956) of Big House Peak (2280m) (Igdlorssuit Qaqat), the highest point in the area, by the SW ridge, and also the first ascent by the E ridge. 86/7 -Sunderland East Greenland Expedition (July-August 1986) This four-man team stopped short of their objective, the SW face of Laupersbjerg, and instead managed to climb the SW spur of Rodsbjerg (in the region of 16 September Glacier) to within 350m of the summit.
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Pakistan, “Are Very Much in India.”
282 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1984 Brammah II, Kishtwar. Brammah II (6425 meters, 21,080 feet) was climbed by Indians led by Bibhas Das in June. Nun, Kurt and Pinnacle Peak. Many expeditions now visit Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) and Kun (7077 meters, 23,220 feet). Among the successful ones were the following. Five Koreans led by Jung Byung-Taek climbed Nun by its north ridge in late June and early July. Japanese Fuji Tsunoda, Nobori Hosogai and Masaaki Kumada ascended Nun by the west ridge on August 16. The leader was Kazuo Tobita. Other Japanese, Akinori Hosaka, Jun Hashimoto, Katsunori Ishii, Noriyuki Yaginuma and Takayuki Hoshino, on September 14 reached the summit of Nun. Austrians Manfred Seebauer, Thomas Fiedler, Ulli and Hanne Eberhard, Clemens Wildenauer and Thomas Strobl climbed Nun by way of the plateau, Black Needle and the southwest ridge on September 16. Austrians Marcus Schmuck and Friedebert Widder were members of a group of 14. Ten reached the summit of Kun on August 31, September 1 and 4. They had two high camps and climbed the east ridge. Frenchmen Pierre Demolombe, Christian Baillet, Jacques Germain, Denis Mar- gaine and Dominique Moutel climbed Pinnacle Peak (6930 meters, 22,737 feet) on September 1. The Position of Saltoro Kangri and Sia Kangri. The Editor has received a communication from Colonel Narindar Kumar, leader of the 1981 Indian Army expedition to the Karakoram, in which he emphasizes that the Indians definitely consider that these peaks, which we placed in Pakistan, “are very much in India.” Pakistan Winter in the Karakoram.
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