Spantik Pakistan - Karakoram Asia | 7,027M
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DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the Project
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the project We are 3 of Snow Leopards, who commit the hardest anoxic high altitude ascents and perform freeride from the tops of the highest mountains on Earth (8000+). We do professional one of a kind filming on the utmost altitude. THE TRICKIEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH NO BOTTLED OXYGEN CHALLENGES TO HUMAN AND NATURE NO EXTERIOR SUPPORT 8000ERS FREERIDE FROM THE TOPS MOVIES ALONE WITH NATURE FREERIDE DESCENTS 5 3 SNOW LEOS Why the project is so unique? PROFESSIONAL FILMING IN THE HARDEST CONDITIONS ❖ Higher than 8000+ m ❖ Under challenging efforts ❖ Without bottled oxygen & exterior support ❖ Severe weather conditions OUTDOOR PROJECT-OF-THE-YEAR “CRYSTAL PEAK 2017” AWARD “Death zone freeride” project got the “Crystal Peak 2017” award in “Outdoor project-of-the-year” nomination. It is comparable with “Oscar” award for Russian outdoor sphere. Team ANTON VITALY CARLALBERTO PUGOVKIN LAZO CIMENTI Snow Leopard. Snow Leopard. Leader The first Italian Snow Leopard. MC in mountaineering. Manaslu of “Mountain territory” club. Specializes in a ski mountaineering. freeride 8163m. High altitude Ski-mountaineer. Participant cameraman. of more than 20 high altitude expeditions. Mountains of the project Manaslu Annapurna Nanga–Parbat Everest K2 8163m 8091m 8125m 8848m 8611m The highest mountains on Earth ❖ 8027 m Shishapangma ❖ 8167 m Dhaulagiri I ❖ 8035 m Gasherbrum II (K4) ❖ 8201 m Cho Oyu ❖ 8051 m Broad Peak (K3) ❖ 8485 m Makalu ❖ 8080 m Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, K5) ❖ 8516 m Lhotse ❖ 8091 m Annapurna ❖ 8586 m Kangchenjunga ❖ 8126 m Nanga–Parbat ❖ 8614 m Chogo Ri (K2) ❖ 8156 m Manaslu ❖ 8848 m Chomolungma (Everest) Mountains that we climbed on MANASLU September 2017 The first and unique freeride descent from the altitude 8000+ meters among Russian sportsmen. -
Pakistan 1995
LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DAVID HAMILTON Pakistan 1995 Thanks are due to Xavier Eguskitza, Tafeh Mohammad andAsem Mustafa Awan for their help in providing information. ast summer in the Karakoram was one of generally unsettled weather L conditions. Intermittent bad weather was experienced from early June and a marked deterioration occurred from mid-August. The remnants of heavy snow cover from a late spring fall hampered early expeditions, while those arriving later experienced almost continuous precipitation. In spite of these difficulties there was an unusually high success rate on both the 8000m and lesser peaks. Pakistan Government statistics show that 59 expe ditions from 16 countries received permits to attempt peaks above 6000m. Of the 29 expeditions to 8000m peaks 17 were successful. On the lower peaks II of the 29 expeditions succeeded. There were 14 fatalities (9 on 8000m peaks) among the 384 foreign climbers; a Pakistani cook and porter also died in separate incidents. The action of the Pakistan Government in limiting the number of per mits issued for each of the 8000m peaks to six per season has led to the practice of several unconnected expeditions 'sharing' a permit, an un fortunate development which may lead to complicated disputes with the Pakistani authorities in the future. Despite the growing commercialisation of high-altitude climbing, there were only four overtly commercial teams on the 8000m peaks (three on Broad Peak and one on Gasherbrum II). However, it is clear that many places on 'non-commercial' expeditions were filled by experienced climbers able to supply substantial funds from their own, or sponsors', resources. -
The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
Pakistan Everest from Rongbuk Glacier, Tibet. Rob Fairley, 1987. (Watercolour. 36cm x 55cm. Private collection.) 21 SIMONE MORO The First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat The Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. Moro switched from the Messner route to the Kinshofer due to unusually risky conditions on his favoured line. (All photos courtesy of Simone Moro) t was a cold dream, one almost 30 years in the making, on an epic moun- Itain, the biggest in the world even if it isn’t the highest. In the course of those three decades I spent a whole year either under or on the slopes of Nanga Parbat before finally realising my ambition of climbing to the summit in winter, and with a unique group of people. To realise big dreams you have to accept long waits and numerous defeats; rework strategies, teams and tactics. In a nutshell, you have to be willing to be mentally very strong as well as physically. A winter expedition to an 8,000er is not the cold version of a spring or summer expedition. It’s another world, a way of doing alpinism that’s com- pletely different; one that has to be learned, understood and experienced. Cold is certainly one of the elements with which you have to cope, but there is also the constant wind, freezing and damn loud, a wind that can force 23 24 T HE A LPINE J OURN A L 2 0 1 6 T HE F IRS T W IN T ER A SCEN T O F N A N ga P A RB at 25 many technical details and protocols that must be respected when climb- ing an 8,000er in winter. -
Appalachia Alpina
Appalachia Volume 71 Number 2 Summer/Fall 2020: Unusual Pioneers Article 16 2020 Alpina Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.dartmouth.edu/appalachia Part of the Nonfiction Commons Recommended Citation (2020) "Alpina," Appalachia: Vol. 71 : No. 2 , Article 16. Available at: https://digitalcommons.dartmouth.edu/appalachia/vol71/iss2/16 This In Every Issue is brought to you for free and open access by Dartmouth Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Appalachia by an authorized editor of Dartmouth Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Alpina A semiannual review of mountaineering in the greater ranges The 8,000ers The major news of 2019 was that Nirmal (Nims) Purja, from Nepal, climbed all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks in under seven months. The best previous time was a bit under eight years. Records are made to be broken, but rarely are they smashed like this. Here, from the Kathmandu Post, is the summary: Annapurna, 8,091 meters, Nepal, April 23 Dhaulagiri, 8,167 meters, Nepal, May 12 Kangchenjunga, 8,586 meters, Nepal, May 15 Everest, 8,848 meters, Nepal, May 22 Lhotse, 8,516 meters, Nepal, May 22 Makalu, 8,481 meters, Nepal, May 24 Nanga Parbat, 8,125 meters, Pakistan, July 3 Gasherbrum I, 8,080 meters, Pakistan, July 15 Gasherbrum II, 8,035 meters, Pakistan, July 18 K2, 8,611 meters, Pakistan, July 24 Broad Peak, 8,047 meters, Pakistan, July 26 Cho Oyu 8,201 meters, China/Nepal, September 23 Manaslu, 8,163 meters, Nepal, September 27 Shishapangma, 8,013 meters, China, October 29 He reached the summits of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu in an astounding three days. -
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114 Annals of Glaciology 57(71) 2016 doi: 10.3189/2016AoG71A075 © The Author(s) 2016. This is an Open Access article, distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution licence (http://creativecommons. org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits unrestricted re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. Avalanche character and fatalities in the high mountains of Asia D.M. McCLUNG Department of Geography, University of British Columbia, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada Correspondence: D.M. McClung <[email protected]> ABSTRACT. With the exception of northern India, there are few, if any, consistent data records relating to avalanche activity in the high mountains of Asia. However, records do exist of avalanche fatalities in the region, contained in mountaineering expedition reports. In this paper, I review and analyze statistics of avalanche fatalities (both snow and ice) in the high mountains of Asia (Himalaya, Karakoram, Pamir, Hindu Kush, Tien Shan, Dazu Shan) from 1895 to 2014. The data are stratified according to accident cause, geographical region (Nepal–Tibet (Xizang), Pakistan, India, China, Central Asia), mountain range, personnel (hired or expedition members) and terrain. The character of the accidents is compared with data from North America and Europe. The data show that the important risk components are the temporal and spatial exposure probabilities. It is shown that human actions and decisions govern the pattern of fatal avalanches in the high mountains of Asia. KEYWORDS: avalanches, glacier hazards, snow INTRODUCTION such, are not the only records of avalanche fatalities in the The high mountains of Asia include all the world’s mountains countries containing the high mountains of Asia. -
Jan-Vol11-141-145.Pdf
REGIONAL NOTES e KARRAR HAIDRI Final Final Report of Mountaineering Expeditions Visiting Visiting Pakistan During 2009 Year Year 2009 has been a very bleak s巴ason for Mountaineering in Pakistan .The cuπent security state of 出e country country has adversely affected the inflow of Tourists in Pakistan. This year a total numb巴r of 63 teams teams originally applied for attempting various peaks but 18 withdrew 出巴 ir applications leaving 45 teams who have been gr叩ted permit to climb various peaks of their choice, 02 more teams who had been granted permit permit to climb peaks did not turn up for climbing, thus leaving just 43 teams in the field . Out of these four four teams were granted permission to climb 02 peaks each and one team to climb 03 peaks, as such overall overall 49 attempts were made to climb various p巴aks by 343 climbers including 54 climbers attempting attempting 2 peaks each thus totaling the numbers on attempting climbers to 397. Out of these 17 exp巴ditions have returned successful by putting 72 climbers on the summits of various peaks including including o4 climbers summitting 02 peaks each whereas 32 team s have returned unsuccessful. Unluckily Unluckily 03 climbers lost lives their whil巴 descending from the summit after summitting the p巴ak,02 on Nanga Parbat and 01 on G-11 wmle other 03 climbers lost their lives wmle attempting K-2, Broad Peak and Latok-1. A brief resum巴 of expeditions on various peaks is given below: K・2 (8,611m) Year Year 2009 has been an unluckily year for K-2 and Broad Peak climbers. -
Muhammad Ali Sadpara an Anonymous Prince of the Mountains Anwar Ali1*, Munir Ahmed2 and Ahmed Bostani3
Saudi Journal of Medicine Abbreviated Key Title: Saudi J Med ISSN 2518-3389 (Print) |ISSN 2518-3397 (Online) Scholars Middle East Publishers, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Journal homepage: https://saudijournals.com Review Article Muhammad Ali Sadpara an Anonymous Prince of the Mountains Anwar Ali1*, Munir Ahmed2 and Ahmed Bostani3 1Dr. Anwar Ali, PhD-Public Health and Preventive Medicine, Hunan Provincial Key Laboratory of Clinical Epidemiology, Central South University, Changsha City, Hunan, China 2Mr. Munir Ahmed, MPhil Scholar, Department of Food Science and Engineering, Yangzhou University, Yangzhou City, Jiangsu Province, China 3Mr. Ahmed Bostani, MPhil Scholar, Department of Tourism Management, Dongbei University of Finance and Economics, Dalian City, Liaoning Province, China DOI: 10.36348/sjm.2021.v06i02.004 | Received: 02.02.2021 | Accepted: 17.02.2021 | Published: 27.02.2021 *Corresponding Author: Anwar Ali Abstract Mountaineering is a field that is easy to see but very difficult, those who adopt this field are well aware that one day they may not be able to see the next day’s sun. It is also very attractive in the background of how dangerous it looks. The beauty of the mountain valleys can only be appreciated by one who has seen it up close and Muhammad Ali Sadpara was one of those lucky people. He was the prince of the mountains who hoisted the flag of his nation on the highest peaks of the world. He climbed eight of 14 Eight-thousanders. His first climb was Gasherbrum II in Karakoram. In this review we tried to explore the life of a mountaineer who sacrificed his life just for the sake of his nation and country. -
Pakistan 2007
LINDSAY GRIFFIN & DICK ISHERWOOD Pakistan 2007 This summary was compiled from extensive notes collected by LG. We thank Mr Saad Tariq Siddique of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, and the climbers named below, for their assistance. he Pakistan authorities approved 83 expeditions for 2007. As in Nepal, Tpeak fees have been steeply discounted to keep the climbers coming, and a permit for K2 now costs only $6000. Peaks below 6500m have no fee at all, and (perhaps the best news of all) liaison officers are no longer required outside the Baltoro region. On K2, 29 climbers from eight expeditions reached the summit, out of 130 starters. A Russian expedition climbed the west face by a new route, much of it on the very steep central rock buttress, using plenty of aid but apparently little oxygen, and put 11 people on the summit on 21/22 August after over two months’ effort. They considered the route to be more dif- ficult than the 2004 Russian ascent of the north face of Jannu, and it is almost certainly the hardest route to date on K2. A good deal of gear was left behind. Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov from Kazakhstan attempted a new line up a shallow spur on the north face of K2 late in the season, but aban- doned their attempt low down in bad weather and traversed onto the Japa- nese route on the north ridge, reaching the summit on 2 October. This was the latest summit date ever for K2 and another impressive achievement for this pair, climbing fast and unsupported and without oxygen. -
Nanga Parbat: Second Winter Ascent, First Complete Ascent of Northwest Face, and Rescue Pakistan, Himalaya
AAC Publications Nanga Parbat: Second Winter Ascent, First Complete Ascent of Northwest Face, and Rescue Pakistan, Himalaya Nanga Parbat from the northwest. Red is the upper section of the Mackiewicz-Revol route with Camp 4 marked. (C) is the crevasse bivouac at 7,280m from where Revol descended alone along the blue line (the Kinshofer Route). Google Earth A LITTLE AFTER SUNSET on January 25, 2018, Tomasz Mackiewicz (Poland) and Elizabeth Revol (France) reached the top of Nanga Parbat (8,125m) to make the second winter ascent of the mountain. The pair had completed the first ascent of the northwest face to the summit, with Revol becoming only the second women in history to climb an 8,000m peak in winter (after the Swiss mountaineer Marianne Chapuisat, who climbed Cho Oyu on February 10, 1993). Their ascent was made in very lightweight style. The northwest face had seen several previous attempts, including a 1991 Austrian team that reached 7,400m and a 2008 attempt that reached 7,760m, not far below the north summit. (See AAJ 2017.) Mackiewicz, a veteran of multiple winter attempts on the mountain, had attempted the northwest face with Revol in 2014-’15 and again the following winter. In 2018, they started along the same line but then angled right, eventually reaching the Kinshofer Route, which they followed to the summit. After a first foray in early January, in which they reached Camp 2 at 6,600m, Mackiewicz and Revol began their summit attempt on January 20. On the 21st they made it back to Camp 2, where they discovered their tent still intact (the shovel they’d left there had blown away). -
K2:G2 Trek Packet
K2 AND G2 RAPID ASCENT™ BASE CAMP TREKKING EXPEDITION DURATION: 16 DAYS LOCATION: PAKISTAN SKILL LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE K2 & G2 BASE CAMP TREK Expedition Details DURATION: 16 DAYS LOCATION: PAKISTAN SKILL LEVEL: INTERMEDIATE SEASON: SUMMER COST: $7,950 DIFFICULTY LEVEL DESCRIPTION: Intermediate - Technical climbing and altitude experience are not necessary but this expedition requires good physical fitness, specifically an ability to move in rugged terrain for long days. Alpenglow can happily provide physical and technical training programs to prepare for this introductory expedition. PREREQUISITES: VIEW UPCOMING TRIPS AT Previous experience at altitude greater than 5,000m, 16,400’. Prior trekking experience is highly ALPENGLOWEXPEDITIONS.COM encouraged; no technical climbing skills required. ALPENGLOWEXPEDITIONS.COM EXPEDITION DETAILS | 2 Expedition Introduction Why Trek in Pakistan? Trek through one of the worlds more impressive mountain ranges: The Karakoram. Situated in Northern Pakistan, the Karakoram boasts towering 8,000m peaks and expansive glacial valleys. Hiking through this storied mountain range instills a sense of awe in all who are fortunate enough to witness its remote and wild landscape. We’ll be trekking through this stunning mountain range to the base camps of two of the ROUTE CHOICE world’s tallest mountains. Rising from the foot We’ll accompany our Gasherbrum II climbing of the Baltoro Glacier, K2 (8,611m, 28,251’) and team, taking the same route that winds through Gasherbrum II (8,034m, 26,362) are magnificent the Karakoram until we reach the stunning mountains that are truly spectacles to behold. 8,000m peaks lining the Baltoro Glacier. We’ll Our local logistics teams and guides have then split off from the climbing team and head worked extensively in the Karakoram, making to the base camps of Broad Peak and K2. -
Dying on the 8000M Peaks in the Himalaya and Karakoram
LEARNING BY (NOT) DYING ON THE 8,000M PEAKS IN THE HIMALAYA AND KARAKORAM Learning by doing is regarded as a fundamental driver of economic growth in the endogenous growth literature. Yet studies of learning by doing have examined industries for very brief periods only, and they generally use aggregate data to infer learning that may be occurring at a micro level. This study examines the history of an “industry”—Himalayan mountaineering on the peaks over 8,000m in height— over an entire century. As we are able to identify individuals taking part in climbing expeditions, we can test whether learning by doing takes place at the individual, “firm”, or industry level. We find evidence that observed increases in successful ascent rates and concomitant decreases in death, frostbite and altitude sickness rates are in part due to learning by doing at the industry level, as an increase in the cumulative experience of prior expeditions reduces the chances that a later expedition will suffer an adverse outcome, and in part due to increases in the human capital of the climbers, as an increase in climbers’ prior experience increases the probability of an expedition ascent. 1. INTRODUCTION In 1895 the British climber Albert Mummery, perhaps the finest mountaineer of his time, and five others made the first serious attempt to climb a mountain exceeding 8,000 meters in height. The mountain they chose to climb was Nanga Parbat (8,126m), in present-day Pakistan. It is one of only fourteen mountains in the world whose peaks rise above 8,000m, all of which lie in the Himalaya or Karakoram mountains of India, Nepal, Pakistan, and Tibet. -
Volume 28 # January 2014
THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 28 January 2014 THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER Contents Expeditions and Explorations Indian Himalaya Eastern Karakoram and Ladakh First Ascent of Chamshen (707 m) ...........................................................3 First Ascent of Plateau Peak .......................................................................5 First Ascent of Cha Ri .................................................................................5 Explorations in Rongdo Valley ...................................................................6 Himachal Pradesh First Ascent of Khhang Shiling (6360 m) NE Face and Attempt on Kullu Makalu .....................................................................9 Kumaun & Garhwal Attempt on Nada Devi East ......................................................................0 First Crossing of Chaukhambha Col ........................................................11 Arunachal Pradesh Explorations in the Upper Subansiri, 203 ...............................................12 Karakoram First Ascent Kunyang Chhish East (7400 m) ............................................4 First Winter Ascent of Broad Peak ............................................................5 New Route on South West Face of Broad Peak .......................................6 First Ascent of K6 West (7040 m) .............................................................7 Laila Peak (6096 m) ..................................................................................7 First Ascent of Koh-e-Gulistan