(Review) TASTINGS : bigger is better

An impressive range in return for the maintenance DOCG status and the delimited region of the road between Iseo and Brescia. restricted to just 19 of the original 23 of 150 , in both The reference in the statutes is, in fact, communes. The still red and white bottle and magnum, an injunction issued by the City of wines retained their original DOC Brescia ordering the municipalities of status and could be produced in all 23 allowed Tom Stevenson and Rodendo to repair the communes, but the appellation was bridge over the River Mella at renamed Terre di Franciacorta. This to assess Franciacorta’s Mandolossa. It is obvious from the name changed again in 2008, and since potential, as well as subtext that the area had been known as then the wines have been sold under Franzacurta for a long time. the Curtefranca DOC. The passito to identify its top Wines have been produced in this wines have been relegated to Sebino area since ancient times, but despite IGT, a denomination that also covers producers, cuvées, the local name, they were not known as a range of still red and white similar and Franciacorta until 1958, when Guido in style though technically inferior to Berlucchi released a still white Curtefranca DOC. called Pinot di Franciacorta. It was Franciacorta is in , midway Berlucchi who produced the first and production between Milan and Venice, abutting in 1961, and by 1967 From the table opposite, we can see that the southern shore of Lake Iseo (below), the wines produced in 23 communes the area under vine for the production a stone’s throw away from Verona. It of Franciacorta were delimited and of Franciacorta DOCG has increased was first mentioned by a variant of its awarded DOC status. The DOC was by 27 percent, reinforcing current name in 1277, when the Eighth for both still and sparkling wines, and its role as the primary variety. Book of Statutes of Brescia defined the still wines could be red or white, Of the two secondary varieties, Pinot an area to the south of Lake Iseo, dry or sweet, or passito in style. At this Bianco is still the less planted, but it between the rivers Oglio and Mella, as juncture, there were only 11 sparkling- is expanding at the expense of Pinot “Franzacurta.” This name derived from wine producers and just 29ha (72 acres) Nero, though Pinot Bianco is the only the freedom of payment of any taxes of vineyards. In 1995, the sparkling grape that is restricted (to a maximum for goods transported from the area to wines of Franciacorta were elevated to of 50 percent in any wine).

56 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE ISSUE 43 2014 In 2008 (WFW 20, pp.192–97, until at least 25 months after the Aging: As for and Non-Vintage. where readers may find additional of the youngest base wine. (This Special note: May be produced by information), I reported that annual compares favorably with Non-Vintage , saignée, or blending. sales of Franciacorta had increased from , which may be sold 15 Styles: All categories of sweetness 2.9 million to 6.7 million bottles between months after bottling.) except demi-Sec if vintaged and extra- 1996 and 2006. By 2012, with 105 Styles: White and rosé in all categories dry, sec, and demi-sec if riserva. producers and growing, the turnover of of sweetness, plus Satèn in brut only. ’s most famous sparkling wine had Franciacorta Vintage or Millesimato more than doubled, to 13.85 million Franciacorta Satèn : Dependent on style (see above). bottles, yet Franciacorta remains Grapes: Primarily Chardonnay, with the Aging: Must be at least 85% from the boutique-sized vis-à-vis Champagne’s possibility of up to 50% Pinot Bianco. vintage indicated on the label, and may 300-million-bottle industry. Aging: As for Vintage and Non-Vintage. not be sold until at least 37 months Special note: This is a lower-pressure after the date of that harvest, including Officially designated categories “crémant” style blanc de blancs that a minimum of 30 months on yeast. All Franciacorta DOCG wines must be must be less that 5 atmospheres (This is more relaxed than vintaged produced by the , (compared to 5–6 atmospheres for Champagne, which is “not less than 36 (the second fermentation taking place Franciacorta in general) and is often, months from the date of tirage.”) in the bottle in which it will be sold): but not always, fermented in barriques. Styles: Pas dosé, extra-brut, brut, and Styles: Brut only. extra-dry, with the exception of Satèn, Non-vintage Franciacorta which may only be sold as brut. Grapes: Chardonnay and/or Pinot Franciacorta Rosé Nero, with the possibility of up to 50% Grapes: A minimum of 25% Pinot Nero Franciacorta Riserva Pinot Bianco. (increased from 15%), plus the Grapes: Dependent on style (see above). Aging: A minimum of 18 months on possibility of Chardonnay and up to a Aging: Must be at least 85% from the yeast; these wines may not be released maximum of 50% Pinot Bianco. vintage indicated on the label and may not be sold until at least 67 months FRANCIACORTA DOCG AREA UNDER VINE BY VARIETY after the date of that harvest, including a minimum of 60 months on yeast. 2008 area (ha) 2014 area (ha) Special note: Effectively an Total area under vine 2,200 (100%) 2,800 (100%) authenticated “late disgorgement.” Chardonnay 1,804 (82%) 2,380 (85%) Styles: Pas dosé, extra-brut, and brut, 308 (14%) 280 (10%) with the exception of Satèn, which may Pinot Bianco 88 (4%) 140 (5%) be sold only as brut. Photography by Jon Wyand by Photography

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The tasting The reason for my visit to Franciacorta was to taste comprehensively and comparatively, which could only be achieved at a central location. I was staying at Relais Mirabella on the Colline Mirabella, immediately above Clusane sul Lago, where the rooms have a stunning view over Lake Iseo, but further up the collina, the hotel has an event facility called La Catilina. This venue has an even more magnificent view, and its light and tranquillity proved ideal for serious tasting. I asked producers to submit their best-selling Non-Vintage and Vintage wines (whatever the style), both in 75cl bottle and 150cl magnum. If a producer wanted to submit other cuvées, that was fine, but the best- sellers were obligatory. This allowed I expected the magnums to be of the very same wine tells me that it is me to judge Franciacorta not on special superior, which normally translates as more a matter of bottle format than cuvées but at entry level—the sort of more finesse, and as the wines mature, climate per se. Franciacorta most people drink most the increased freshness is magnified. This is both encouraging and of the time. I asked to taste not just I did not expect the gap between 75cl worrying. It is encouraging because, the current release but also the next bottles and magnums to be as great as from the evidence of the magnums, release, again in bottle and magnum. it was. In almost all wines (there were Franciacorta is already achieving This enabled me to judge each producer only four exceptions), the magnums much greater quality than anyone had not on a single wine, but to assess the were significantly superior, but the imagined. A lot of critics are already quality and consistency in the pipeline. surprise was that in no less than one impressed by Franciacorta, but they third of the wines (from two thirds of all should be even more impressed now. Conclusions the producers I tasted), the difference However, it is worrying for some Overall, this was one of the most affected not simply how much I could critics (myself included), who have impressive tastings across the board I recommend a wine but whether I written off wines that were obviously have experienced in any sparkling- could recommend it at all. In the most and intrinsically of a much higher wine region outside Champagne. Part extreme instances, the bottles could be quality in magnum. More important, of the learning curve of any sparkling- absolutely dire, while the magnums however, it is worrying for producers, wine region is to bottle in magnum. were truly superb; it was as if they had who need to research why there should The so-called magnum effect come from two different producers or, be a much greater difference between provides a window into the future, even, two different regions! In most the quality in 75cl bottles and magnums illustrating to the producers themselves cases, though, the superiority of the in Franciacorta than elsewhere. Since what they are capable of achieving magnum was due to an absence of the the wine is the same, there must be a long before they reach that level in oxidative aroma that pervaded the 75cl problem with oxygen ingress in the 75cl bottles. It also demonstrates the bottles to one degree or another. And if 75cl bottles that does not affect the maturity of a region’s customer base, it was not an oxidative issue, it was magnums. Assuming that SO2 levels because only serious, potentially loyal the size, weight, and richness of fruit, are correct, the first item that must be consumers understand the benefit of which has often been seen as too big checked is the oxygen ingress of the magnums and will bother to buy them. and too sunny in Franciacorta. The fact crown caps and corks, but the root of Anywhere you go in the sparkling- that exactly the same wines in magnum the problem could be the bottle just wine world, the more magnum sales are not marred by this causes me to as much as it could be the closure. I there are, the healthier the market is. rethink whether I and others have been believe the quality tolerance of bottle In Franciacorta, I was greeted by 312 correct in considering Franciacorta a necks employed by some Italian bottle wines, comprising no fewer than bit too warm and sunny for a perfect manufacturers is 0.8mm compared 156 bottles and 156 magnums. That style of brut sparkling wine. There is no to 0.3mm for Champagne. Not all is something I rarely see outside denying that Franciacorta is warmer Franciacorta bottles are made in Italy, Champagne, and it demonstrates just and sunnier than Champagne, but the of course, and there is no problem with how mature the Franciacorta market is. absence of sunshine fruit in magnums magnums, but is there any correlation

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between the most extreme differences Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Satèn Brut Monte Rossa Franciacorta Brut Cabochon in scores between bottles and magnums Vintage Collection 2009 (prerelease 2008 (prerelease magnum) and the origin of the 75cl bottles used? magnum) Needs a little more post-disgorgement I’m reluctant to give a perfect 20 but— aging, which as a prerelease sample it will Even if a producer buys bottles with a seriously—can any Franciacorta be better get, of course, but every bit the potential of 0.3mm neck tolerance, they still need to than this? It stands shoulder to shoulder with the current disgorgement of the exceptional use a 31mm-diameter cork rather than the very best vintages of Cuvée Annamaria magnum. If the magnums are this good, 30mm. Getting to the bottom of the Clementi. 19.5+ Monte Rossa is obviously doing nothing huge quality divide between bottles wrong in the first fermentation and must Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Riserva Brut look at why there should be such a and magnums is something that Annamaria Clementi 2004 (magnum) difference between the second fermentation needs to tackled by the entire industry, The is the 57th wine in the tasting and the first in bottle. 19 not individual producers. Perhaps really toasty Franciacorta I have encountered. the consorzio could retain the services Not simply toasty, but more complex, with Montenisa Franciacorta Riserva Brut of one of Italy’s top laboratories to mellow creamy-coffee aromas. What a Contessa Maggi 2002 (magnum) wonderfully sensuous wine this is! 19.5 In magnum this old vintage is quite simply examine (both analytically and extraordinary! Absolutely fresh and has a physically) the bottles, magnums, and Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Brut Vintage long, long way to go before it starts to show wines that have attracted the most Collection 2009 (prerelease magnum) any of the tertiary notes found in the 75cl extreme differences in score? Mind-blowing finesse! Unbelievable! Not bottles. This is, therefore, much younger, and Here are the highlights and findings sure that this extraordinary level of quality less complex, but will ultimately yield far can be maintained through the disgorgement greater complexity laced with freshness and of the tasting: process, but when Ca’ del Bosco’s magnums finesse.19 • No fewer than 35 Franciacortas scored of 2009 are commercially disgorged, they will 18.5 or higher. be fabulous, that’s for sure. 19.5 Uberti Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero • The top three wines were all Sublimis 2007 (prerelease magnum) magnums, two of which were Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Riserva I love the pure autolytic finesse in this magnum. The wine leaves an indelible prerelease samples. Brut Annamaria Clementi 2005 (prerelease 75cl) imprint on the palate. Potentially great. 19 • 29 of the top-scoring 35 wines were So smooth, so together, so sublime! One of magnums. those all-satisfying wines that is so seamless Antica Fratta Franciacorta Brut NV • The average score for magnums was that it is pointless trying to deconstruct it. 19 (prerelease magnum) 17.4, compared to 15.5 for 75cl bottles. [2010-based] Part of the Guido Berlucchi group, Antica Fratta is well known for its • The most extreme differences Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Riserva Brut Annamaria Clementi 2005 (prerelease simple, easy-drinking Franciacorta, but this between 75cl bottles and magnums of magnum) absolutely gorgeous cuvée is exceptional. Its exactly the same wine were 11 points If I thought the 75cl bottle of this prerelease soft, fluffy, and delicious fruit has great versus 18.5 points, and 13 points versus was so smooth, the magnum is even smoother finesse. 18.5 19 points. and has an amazing concentration, promising • Only nine of the top-scoring 35 wines exceptional longevity. 19 Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Brut Vintage Collection 2008 (magnum) were Satèn. Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Brut Vintage Fresher than the same wine in 75cl bottle, • A significant number of Satèns did Collection 2009 (prerelease 75cl) with so much more autolysis, even though not possess the requisite soft and silky This is great sparkling wine, whatever it is and fully commercial, not recently disgorged. mousse. The technical requirement of wherever it comes from. Supremely elegant, I just adore this wine! It has so much 5 atmospheres seems too high. (In the with great finesse and developing complexity. finesse and is, in its own way, as good as Superb! 19 not just any Champagne but a fine old days, a crémant Champagne was Champagne. 18.5 approximately 4 atmospheres.) Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Satèn Brut Vintage Collection 2009 (prerelease 75cl) Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Satèn Brut THE TASTING This preview 75cl bottle is better than most Vintage Collection 2008 (magnum) Notes magnums, preview or commercial. Incredible Almost a perfect disgorgement! Has 1. All wines were tasted on October 14, 16, 17, quality, finesse, and potential.19 retained freshness, finesse, and autolytic and 18, 2013. aromas, yet it is slowly evolving in the bottle. 2. All prerelease wines were disgorged and Franca Contea Franciacorta Brut Primus NV A great wine. Masterful! 18.5 recorked within 24 hours of being delivered to (magnum) La Catilina on the day of tasting. Wow! Mind-blowing! I have not been Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Brut 3. The sweetness designation for all impressed by this producer until now. Cruperdù NV (prerelease magnum) prereleases merely indicates what the wine Magnificent!19 [2008-based] I have had some disappointing will eventually be sold as. They were tasted, of wines from this producer in the past, so I course, without any dosage whatsoever. Monte Rossa Franciacorta Brut Cabochon was not expecting much, but I was impressed 4. All prerelease samples not scoring an 2008 (magnum) by a number of these wines. This one is very unhesitating recommendation of 15.5 points A tad sweet but really quite beautiful, yeast- elegant, with lovely acids, great potential, or higher have been excluded. Unlike current complexed fruit, which develops and evolves and bags of finesse. 18.5 releases, prereleases are unfinished by on the finish. Has finesse and lovely length. definition and should not be condemned for I am surprised, because the 75cl bottles Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra Brut that, though those that shine through should from this producer hardly ever impress. Buy Cuvée Lucrezia 2004 (magnum) be acknowledged. magnums only! 19 So young! So fresh! So amazing! 18.5

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Ferghettina Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2010 Montenisa Franciacorta Brut Conte Aymo Just needs to tweak the down, which will (prerelease magnum) 2007 (prerelease magnum) probably increase the finesse, to elevate this Lovely autolytic aromas; deliciously fresh and Full of freshness, vitality, and energy, this feels to the very best of Ca’ del Bosco’s wines. 18 fragrant, with lovely low-key toasty aromas like a cuvée designed to last—from the vines just beginning to glide gently through the in the ground, to the fruit in the glass. Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Brut Vintage crisp, delicate fruit. 18.5 Promises to slowly take on a creamy biscuity Collection 2008 (75cl) toastiness. I love this wine! 18.5 Soft and sumptuous mousse, with a lovely, Ferghettina Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2009 fresh fruitiness. Not too rich; elegant. 18 (magnum) Uberti Franciacorta Extra Brut Quinque NV Such finesse on the nose compared to the (magnum) Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Brut 75cl bottle, and such delightful toasty aroma. A blend of five vintages (cleverly highlighted Cruperdù NV (75cl) Really quite delicious! 18.5 among rows of numbers on the front label) [2007-based] Very impressive, all things and only produced in magnums, this is a considering. Very pale, young, fresh aromas, Franca Contea Franciacorta Satèn Brut blend of 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, and 2006. but in advance of the palate, which is very 2009 (75cl) Extremely rich, vanilla-infused fruit. Impressive young indeed. Gentle, light, and creamy on Delicious and classy, despite its prominent if only because this must be very close to the palate, with lovely soft mousse (essentially oak, this rich and silky wine has a seductive the maximum richness that can work in any Satèn, even if it is not classified as such).18 hint of sweetness on the finish. Lovely.18.5 sparkling wine. 18.5 Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra Brut Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Cuvée Uberti Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Sublimis Cuvée Lucrezia 2008 (prerelease 75cl) Imperiale NV (magnum) 2006 (magnum) Firm, firm mousse, very young and needs a [2009-based] It might be controversial to The magnum has everything the 75cl bottle long time on lees. 18 award 18.5 points to the largest-selling possesses plus much, much more freshness. Franciacorta (1.5 million bottles), but I The fruit is also more supple and the mousse Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra Brut challenge any skeptic to try this cuvée in is softer. Fine, delicate, and delicious, this Cuvée Lucrezia 2008 (prerelease magnum) magnum with an open mind. It is several steps magnum clearly does not need a dosage. 18.5 Very similar to the bottles, but with a touch of higher in quality than the same wine in 75cl green evident in its firm, youthful fruit. Needs bottles, with beautifully fresh fruit of such Villa Franciacorta Brut Emozione 2010 more time on yeast. 18 finesse that it fairly dances across the palate. (prerelease magnum) Even I could not believe the score as I wrote it Gorgeously fragrant, delicate fruit, with the Franca Contea Franciacorta Brut Primus NV down! 18.5 barest hint of toastiness echoing through the (75cl) palate. Will be superb, I’m sure. 18.5 Highly individual style, piquant, most unusual, Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Cuvée and I think I like it! Just Chardonnay on the Imperiale NV (prerelease magnum) Villa Franciacorta Brut Emozione 2009 one hand, yet complex, fresh, rich, terpenic, [2010-based] Even in the next release, the (magnum) paradoxical on the other hand. Curiously, the increased finesse and complexity of the The magnum is as fruity as the 75cl bottle terpenic character reminds me of the Pinot magnum over bottle is evident. 18.5 but much lighter and far more delicate. A Noir in some of the best 2008 , lovely wine that excels as much on its own as even though this wine contains only Il Mosnel Franciacorta Extra Brut EBB 2009 with food. 18.5 Chardonnay. If there is any criticism here, (prerelease magnum) it is that so much is going on, it’s all rather too An extraordinary combination of freshness Villa Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2009 busy, but I do I like it. I like it a lot, especially and complexity. These magnums are just in a (prerelease magnum) for a 75cl bottle. 18 different class.18.5 What a gorgeous magnum! The fruit is still a little firm, but it is already loosening under the Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 25 NV Il Mosnel Franciacorta Extra Brut EBB 2008 magnum effect and finesse promises to go (magnum) (magnum) hand in hand with complexity as it evolves. 18.5 Very sunny and ripe, which translates into So much more finesse in the magnum, even quite sweet, although I am sure it is no though the mousse appears (oddly) to be Villa Franciacorta Rosé Brut 2009 sweeter, technically, than other brut styles in significantly stronger, which would normally (prerelease magnum) this tasting. The magnum brings considerable detract from the finesse. I would keep it Already super-soft, with impressively fresh, freshness to the equation, when compared to perfectly cellared for 2–3 years to soften the potentially complex fruit that dances over the the 75cl bottle. It has more complex aromas mousse, increasing the finesse further. This tongue. 18.5 on the palate and much greater length vintage promises to develop a similar vanilla without any emphasis of weight. I could drink toastiness to Charles Heidsieck! 18.5 Villa Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2008 (magnum) this all night long! 18 Gorgeous fruit. The magnums of this silky- Majolini Franciacorta Brut Electo 2005 soft Satèn are to die for! 18.5 Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 25 NV (75cl) (prerelease magnum) Maybe a tad sweetish, but this has kept the Villa Franciacorta Rosé Brut 2008 (75cl) Much fresher than the 75cl and far more wine youthful while it evolves, since it now All four of Villa’s rosés (2008 and 2009 in expressive. A lovely wine. 18 shows beautiful yeast-complexed fruit, with both bottle and magnum) have a strikingly lots of life ahead. 18.5 similar, very pale salmon color that is as star- Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Cellarius bright as it is beautiful. A creamy-soft and 2009 (prerelease magnum) Monte Rossa Franciacorta Brut PR NV sumptuous mousse, with gloriously fine fruit Silky-smooth with much more finesse than (magnum) underneath. Beautiful to look at and just as the 75cl bottle. 18 A different base wine to the 75cl bottle, beautiful to drink. 18.5 surely? Not only is the magnum not Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Cellarius oxidative, but the acidity appears to be Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Rosé Riserva 2008 (magnum) significantly higher. I love this! [Disgorged Extra Brut Annamaria Clementi 2005 (75cl) Very soft and fruity, the magnums have a June 2013.] 18.5 Very distinctive, oak-aged, rich, and powerful. velvety mousse that heightens the finesse.18

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Il Mosnel Franciacorta Extra Brut EBB 2008 delicacy of fruit. Really very nice, but not one softening effect of post-disgorgement (75cl) of the greatest Ca’ del Bosco wines. 17.5 microoxygenation and freshness of fruit. Sweet vanilla-dusted fruit, yet extra-brut. The Hopefully it will still have this after it has been sun-ripened fruit from this region makes it Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra Brut commercially disgorged. 17.5 much easier to produce the extra-brut (and Cuvée Lucrezia 2004 (75cl) non-dosage) style in Franciacorta than in Creamy biscuity, developed nose. 17.5 Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Brut NV Champagne. The magnums of Il Mosnel EEB (magnum) 2008 might have the finesse, but the 75cl Cavalleri Franciacorta Brut Blanc de Blancs [2010-based] Very fine acacia-like autolytic bottles are so moreish, they should carry a NV (prerelease magnum) aromas, floral fruit, and lovely acidity. Long health warning! 18 [2011-based] The magnum is a big, big and fine.17 improvement over the 75cl bottle, with its Montenisa Franciacorta Riserva Brut fresh, pure, linear fruit neatly emphasized by Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Riserva Brut Contessa Maggi 2006 (prerelease magnum) clean acids to provide a good depth without Cuvée No.4 2006 (prerelease magnum) The magnum of the 2006 Contessa Maggi is any perceptible weight. 17.5 Much, much finer than the commercialized so much finer and, particularly, fresher than magnum of Cuvée No.4, this cuvée is made the 75cl bottle, it is as if it has come from a Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut NV from Bersi Serlini’s four oldest vineyards and different planet!18 (prerelease magnum) has obviously benefited from extended yeast Huge autolytic freshly disgorged aromas. So contact. 17 Montenisa Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2006 very, very young, it will be worth laying down (magnum) for a few years after it has been commercially Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Satèn Brut NV The oak is less noticeable in magnum, which disgorged. 17.5 (75cl) makes for far more finesse, though oak lovers [2009-based] Rich, but not too ripe, long and will probably prefer the 75cl bottles. 18 Franca Contea Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2010 sustained fruit with autolytic aromas front (prerelease 75cl) and back. 17 Uberti Franciacorta Extra Brut Quinque NV Very young, excellent, needs time, both on (prerelease magnum) both lees and after disgorgement. 17.5 Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Satèn Brut NV This is exactly the same wine as the (magnum) commercially available 75cl bottle, but as is Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 2008 [2010-based] Fresh, delicious, autolytic fruit, often the way, the magnums are released a (magnum) fine and elegant with peachiness on finish.17 little later. The rich vanilla-infused fruit in the Lifted by the freshness of the magnum effect, 75cl bottle is superb, yet the fruit in the the lovely toastiness wafting through the fruit Bosio Franciacorta Riserva Dosaggio Zero prerelease sample without its dosage is a tad makes it a delight to drink. 17.5 Girolamo Bosio 2006 (magnum) austere. This illustrates just how important a In the magnum, the malolactic that was so role the dosage can play, even when it is Lantieri de Franciacorta Brut off-putting in the 75cl bottles is merely merely a minimal extra-brut dosage. Scored Arcadia 2009 (magnum) textural, which is as it should be ideally. What for potential. 18 In magnum this wine is dancing on much an amazing difference this makes to the lighter feet, and that does wonders for the quality! Does the faster development in 75cl Villa Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2008 (75cl.) elegance and finesse!17.5 bottle actively emphasize malolactic aromas? The silky-soft, creamy Satèn mousse in this Has any research been carried out? I must wine brings out the elegance of its fruit, Le Quattro Terre Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) search through the scientific papers.17 which, though really quite yummy and [2010-based] This wine interests me more moreish, has poise and lightness. 18 than it convinces me. Technically I would like Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Riserva Brut to see less sunshine in the fruit and more Annamaria Clementi 2004 (75cl) Villa Franciacorta Rosé Brut 2008 (magnum) elegance, yet there is something beguiling I love Cuvée Annamaria Clementi, but to be This has been disgorged much earlier than and uniquely expressive about the fruit as it is. honest, I prefer a number of Ca’ del Bosco the 75cl bottle, which is why it does not have I certainly like this wine and imagine it would wines to this particular bottle of the 2004, the same softness and creaminess of mousse, be very useful at the table, which is where though the magnum of the same vintage is but the fruit on the palate is essentially the this wine (and most of the best Franciacorta) one of the best three wines in the tasting. 17 same, and after another six months’ post- should be ultimately judged. 17.5 disgorgement aging, it will be even better. Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero The score is, however, for the wine as it Monte Rossa Franciacorta Brut PR NV Vintage Collection 2009 (prerelease 75cl) showed at the time of tasting. 18 (prerelease 75cl) Lovely autolytic aromas, beautifully soft and Lovely, fresh, and delightful, this wine fairly fluffy mousse. The fruit that is so sweet (ie, Antica Fratta Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) dances across my palate. 17.5 sunshine ripeness) that it needs no dosage. [2009-based] Softer, finer, more elegance. The only problem is the same as for all non- Drier but perfectly balanced. Beautiful mousse. Montenisa Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2006 dosage sparkling wines: How long will the Minuscule bubbles. Excellent quality. 17.5 (75cl) freshness last after disgorgement? 17 Oak is not my preferred style for any sparkling Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero wine, but this is a high-quality wine with an Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Brut Cruperdù Vintage Collection 2009 (prerelease intriguing hint of coffee oak that does not NV (prerelease 75cl) magnum) disturb the delicacy of its fruit. Whether I prefer [2008-based] Fresh and zesty, impressively The autolysis is even stronger in magnum, the the absence of oak from a sparkling wine is young and vigorous, with excellent potential. 17 fruit is richer, and it has a softer and fluffier neither here nor there, as oak, especially barrel mousse than the 75cl bottle. 17.5 fermentation, is a legitimate style and perhaps Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Rosé Brut NV more so for Franciacorta Satèn than most. 17.5 (prerelease 75cl) Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Satèn Brut [2008-based] Fresh, crisp, cherry fruit, and Vintage Collection 2008 (75cl) Uberti Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Sublimis really quite firm, this cuvée will develop Almost too sweet, but has the authentic soft 2007 (prerelease 75cl) increasing elegance after some post- and silky Satèn mousse and more than a little This wine has the perfect pitch between the disgorgement softening of the mousse. 17

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Colline della stella Franciacorta Dosaggio sunshine sweetness, its fresh, clean, and juicy Vignenote Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) Zero NV (prerelease magnum) fruit would benefit from a year or two [2010-based] Deliciously fresh; more elegance [2011-based] If this freshness and classically additional cellarage. 17 in the fruit than the 75cl bottle. Very drinkable, lean-yet-not-austere fruit on the palate could with a touch of class. Impressive quality for be captured after disgorgement, this would La Riccafana Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) Vignetote’s biggest-selling Non-Vintage. 17 be a winner. As a precaution, drink [2010-based] The same wine in magnum has immediately upon release. 17 less weight, with more elegance than richness Villa Franciacorta Rosé Brut 2009 and fairly dances around the tongue. A lovely (prerelease 75cl) Corte Fusia Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) purity of fruit on the finish. Just needs more A long way behind the prerelease magnum of [2010-based] Fresh, clean, and precise, with time to soften the mousse. 17 2009, though the mousse is heading for this exceptionally focused fruit for a region that cuvée’s signature creamy-soft texture. The can often have too much sunshine in its fruit. 17 Le Quattro Terre Franciacorta Brut NV very pale, star-bright salmon color and (prerelease magnum) beautifully pristine fruit are very similar to Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) [2011-based] Cloudy and not properly Villa’s 2008 Rosé. 17 This has more finesse than the 75cl bottle disgorged (but this is not a commercial version, and the magnum effect adds more disgorgement, so purely academic), but the Villa Crespia Franciacorta Rosé Extra Brut gravitas too, yet it also lifts, lightens and lovely structure, linear fruit, and acidity are Brolese NV (75cl) lengthens. 17 clear to see. Not unsurprisingly, this magnum The fruit here is sweet with ripeness, yet very, has more potential than the 75cl bottle. 17 very light, with some toffee aromas, which I Franca Contea Franciacorta Satèn Brut normally regard as negative, but here they 2009 (magnum) Montenisa Franciacorta Rosé Brut NV have a certain elegance. 17 One of those extremely rare instances where (prerelease magnum) the 75cl bottle is superior, although this [2011-based] The same, extremely pale, Villa Crespia Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero magnum does have more autolytic aromas, Roederer-like rosé color as the 75cl bottle and Numerozero NV (prerelease magnum) less oakiness and could well overtake its very similar, exquisitely balanced fruit on the Finer and more refined than the 75cl bottle, smaller brother in a year or two. For the palate, but perceptibly higher acidity, which the magnum has some creamy-biscuity moment, however, the fruit is rather austere gives the magnum more energy. 17 complexity developing and is far more and requires the plumping-up effect of more impressive. 17 time on yeast. 17 Quadra Franciacorta Brut Quvée 39 2008 (magnum) Antica Fratta Franciacorta Riserva Extra Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 2009 The color is even more disturbingly deeper Brut Quintessence 2006 (magnum) (prerelease magnum) than that found in the 75cl bottle, and the Evidently the same wine as the 75cl bottle Richer, longer, and fresher than in 75cl bottle. 17 oak really dominates here, but thankfully the but lifted by the magnum effect both magnum is much fresher, with no oxidized aromatically and on palate. 16.5 Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Cuvée toffee character. However, the mousse is a bit Imperiale NV (75cl) firm and fierce, requiring at least 12 months Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Satèn Brut [2009-based] Maybe a tad sweet, but easy to between disgorgement and shipment. Future 2009 (magnum) drink, very fresh and juicy on the finish.17 vintages would benefit from a reduced Chock-a-block full of autolysis on the nose, bottling liqueur. 17 with fine purity of fruit on the palate. Same Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Riserva Extra wine as the 75cl bottle but a different bottle Brut Palazzo Lana Extreme 2006 (magnum) Ronco Calino Franciacorta Brut 2008 format and a wildly different result!16.5 Fresher, lighter, and, I suppose, closer to the (magnum) intentions of the winemaker than in the 75cl This has so much more than the 75cl bottle, Bellavista Franciacorta Brut Gran Cuvée bottles. 17 more freshness, more interest, and more 2008 (prerelease magnum) finesse. Delicious!17 Unlike the 75cl bottle, the magnum is not at Il Mosnel Franciacorta Extra Brut EBB 2009 all aldehydic, with far more elegance and (prerelease 75cl) Uberti Franciacorta Extra Brut Comarì del finesse.16.5 Typically fresh disgorgements fall into one Salem 2008 (prerelease magnum) of two distinct categories, autolytic or Bags of floral autolysis on the nose, this has Bellavista Franciacorta Brut Gran Cuvée aldehydic, but aldehydic at this stage does freshness and finesse. Very fine fruit, lean and 2007 (magnum) not necessarily mean aldehydic when potentially complex. 17 Very rich and peachy, but not weighty and commercially released, and this wine displays thus very elegant too. What a difference a the structure and acidity of a potentially fine Uberti Franciacorta Extra Brut Comarì del magnum makes! 16.5 quality Franciacorta. 17 Salem 2007 (magnum) Toasty and yet extremely fresh, with a lovely Bellavista Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) Il Mosnel Franciacorta Riserva Dosaggio minerality of fruit. Tastes like an entirely Like the bottle, but with greater purity of fruit. Zero QdE 2006 (75cl) different wine to the 75cl bottle!17 Turbo-charged with freshness and finesse. Non-dosage is not my favorite style because 16.5 it does not age, but I do enjoy a small number Uberti Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Sublimis of well-balanced non-dosage wines, such as 2006 (75cl) Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Brut Prestige NV this one, when they are first released.17 An engaging melange of freshness and (75cl) maturity, with toasty aromas on the nose and Extremely fruity. Not a wine of any great Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut NV (prerelease a fresh juiciness of fruit on the palate. It finesse or complexity, but anything this easy magnum) would be even better with another 24 to drink should be outlawed! 16.5 Richer and fresher than the 75cl bottle, with months on yeast (even though it already has more autolytic complexity and finesse.17 more time on yeast than most Franciacorta) Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero and 4–5g of dosage, but its juiciness of fruit Vintage Collection 2008 (75cl) Il Mosnel Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2009 (75cl) allows it to get away with the non-dosage This is probably wasted on a tasting format Although this wine probably has too much style—just. 17 and needs to be mulled over at the table. An

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Aaaaaaaaaaa appealing fruitiness leads into white chocolate magnum) shows a lovely juiciness of fruit glass), but the very pale peach color and is nicely supported by a soft, pin-cushion with impressive acidity. 16.5 provides its own visual delight. 16.5 mousse. In retrospect, I probably marked this too low, but on the day the other higher- Corte Fusia Franciacorta Satèn Brut NV Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) scoring wines from Ca’ del Bosco all deserved (75cl) Just as rich as the 75cl bottle, but the fruit in their respective margins in points. 16.5 [2010-based] This Satèn is richer than Corta the magnums seems to be less weighty, with Fusia’s Brut, but it is, as expected, softer. more acidity, giving additional length and Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero However, though it has appealing juicy energy. 16.5 Vintage Collection 2008 (magnum) fruit on the finish, it does not quite have the Chock-a-block full of autolytic acacia aromas, class of the basic Brut. 16.5 Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Satèn this is much richer on the palate than the 75cl Brut NV (magnum) bottle and, strangely, the mousse is stronger Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) Crisp, fresh, elegant fruit. If this is exactly the and more aggressive, yet it also deserves to Very rich, yet energetic, this cuvée is same wine (we were not informed about the be pondered over with food at the table, so I bold, with refreshing crispness on the finish. base year), then there are real problems with must give it an equal score and wonder 16.5 bottling in 75cl—more so than in general, whether this, too, has been undermarked. 16.5 which itself is a cause for concern. 16.5 Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Cellarius Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Rosé Brut NV 2008 (75cl) Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Satèn Brut (75cl) Very soft and fruity, with some complexity NV (prerelease magnum) [200-based] A little tired on the nose but and a seductive vanilla aftertaste. 16.5 The freshly disgorged aromas are more paradoxically fresh and expressive on the autolytic than aldehydic in the magnum and palate, with a harmonious balance of fruit and Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Cuvée the wine is more vital, fresh, and juicy. 16.5 a very long, energetic finish.16.5 Imperiale NV (prerelease 75cl) [2010-based] Very young, with a very tight Monte Rossa Franciacorta Brut PR NV Cola Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) fruit and an aggressive mousse, but it will (prerelease magnum) [2010-based] Fresh, clean, and rich, with calm down and open up after disgorgement, Fresh and potentially fine, but rarely for a good balancing acidity. Quite long, not bad. and it shows promise. 16.5 magnum, not in the same class as the 75cl A touch of vanilla developing. Becomes more bottle, possessing less elegance and less interesting as it develops in the glass. 16.5 Il Mosnel Franciacorta Rosé Dosaggio Zero expressive fruit. 16.5 Parosé 2008 (75cl) Corte Fusia Franciacorta Brut NV Absolutely dry but not parched, this is one Montenisa Franciacorta Rosé Brut NV (prerelease 75cl) of those rosés that could be brut or rosé (prerelease magnum) [2011-based] The solitary preview (no when tasted literally blind (ie, in a black [2009-based] The pale peach color in this

ISSUE 43 2014 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE 63 (review)

prerelease magnum is more striking and Bosio Franciacorta Brut NV (prerelease 75cl bottle, but how can a magnum disgorged fractionally more intense than the magnum) immediately be toasty, when a 75cl bottle commercially available 75cl bottle and has [2009- and 2011-based] Juicier and fresher disgorged at the same time is not? 16 no salmon hue, which is normal, since color than the 75cl and with much more finesse.16 drops out and is modified following the La Montina Franciacorta Brut Aurum 2008 oxidative shock of disgorgement. It also has Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Brut Prestige NV (prerelease magnum) fresher aromatics and more elegant fruit. 16.5 (magnum) This might be only a modestly good score Younger on the nose but more muted on the for a magnum, but this rich and toasty wine Montenisa Franciacorta Rosé Brut NV palate. 16 bears no resemblance whatsoever to the (prerelease 75cl) 75cl-bottle prerelease. 16 [2011-based] Extremely pale rose-gold, hardly Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Rosé Brut perceptible as a blanc de noirs color, let Prestige NV (75cl) La Riccafana Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) alone rosé. Exquisitely fruity. Ready for Creamy-oaky aromas, very easy-drinking, [2010-based] Very rich and a tad heavy for a disgorgement now, without delay! 16.5 fruity wine on the palate. Strange to have so classic sparkling wine, but crisp and pure on much oak in a basic rosé. Perhaps a tad sweet, the finish, so it gets a reasonable score.16 Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Brut NV but it will have its admirers. 16 (magnum) La Riccafana Franciacorta Brut NV I don’t think the difference here is purely Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Brut (prerelease magnum) down to the so-called magnum effect. Either Cruperdù NV (magnum) [2011-based] Being a 2011-based cuvée, this is this magnum has a lower dosage than the [2007-based] A nice wine that is fresher on a very young wine, of course, but it tastes even 75cl bottle, or it is a completely different the nose than the 75cl bottle but surprisingly younger than expected, making it possible blend. It tastes much fresher and gives the (and rarely) lacks its energy and vivacity on only to comment on the structure, which is as impression of higher acidity. 16.5 the palate. 16 it should be. If this is kept on its yeast lees for at least another 24 months, it will probably far Santus Franciacorta Rosé Extra Brut NV Cavalleri Franciacorta Brut Collezione Gran exceed the score I have given it here. 16 (prerelease magnum) Crù 2008 (prerelease 75cl) [2011-based] Pale peach color, with a hint of Richer and fresher than the current 2007 Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Brut copper. Unlike the 75cl bottle, this magnum vintage. 16 Arcadia 2009 (75cl) is not austere, even without a dosage. 16.5 Totally different style, very much richer. Cavalleri Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero 2009 Would prefer the wine to be lighter on its Uberti Franciacorta Satèn Brut Magnificentia (prerelease 75cl) feet, but in terms of pure quality, this is head 2009 (75cl) Fresh, light, and firm. An uncomplicated food and shoulders above the Satèn in 75cl bottles. The mousse is good in an authentically Satèn style. 16 Long aftertaste. Excellent acidity. 16 low-pressure sense, but it could be silkier and creamier. The fruit, however, has an appealing Cavalleri Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero 2008 Le Quattro Terre Franciacorta Brut NV sweet ripeness, and, rarely, the 75cl bottle is (75cl) (prerelease magnum) much fresher than the magnum. 16.5 Surprisingly sweet for a non-dosage, and it [2010-based] This needs at least 12 months does not appear to be entirely a matter of on yeast to match the quality of the current Vignenote Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) sunshine ripeness. I wondered if there was 2010-based cuvée in 75cl, and 24 months to [2010-based] Why does this magnum have a any residual left from the second fermentation, surpass it. 16 deeper color than the 75cl bottle of the same but there was no magnum submitted to taste 2010-based blend? Whatever the reason, this it against. Apart from the sweetness issue, it Le Quattro Terre Franciacorta Brut NV wine is very fresh and extremely fruity. Wine was fresh and refreshing. 16 (prerelease 75cl) does not have to be complex to be enjoyable, [2011-based] Fine structure, fruit, and acidity, especially if it is a basic Non-Vintage, and this Cola Franciacorta Brut NV (prerelease 75cl) but it really needs 12 months on lees and is not complex, just rich and creamy, with a [2011-based] Very young, of course, but the at least six months’ post-disgorgement long, eminently drinkable finish.16.5 fruit and structure are good. 16 aging. 16

Villa Franciacorta Brut Emozione 2009 (75cl) Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut NV Majolini Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) Fruity, creamy, piquant! The fruitiness makes (prerelease 75cl) Much fresher and cleaner than the 75cl bottle, it extremely user-friendly for a glass on its Typically aldehydic fresh disgorgement with a purity of fruit that brings an extra own, but it is far too gluggy for the table. 16.5 aroma, but it’s not showing much else at the dimension of elegance to the wine. 16 moment. 16 Villa Crespia Franciacorta Rosé Extra Brut Montenisa Franciacorta Riserva Brut Brolese NV (prerelease magnum) Ferghettina Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2009 Contessa Maggi 2002 (75cl) Far more impressive and better balanced (75cl) First bottle oxidized. Second bottle fresher. than the 75cl bottle. 16.5 Good, but nowhere near as special as the Clearly an evolved Franciacorta, and some magnum of the same wine. 16 would say too old, but nicely complexed with Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Brut NV honey, toast, and caramel notes lifting the (prerelease 75cl) Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 25 NV long, fine, delicately rich creaminess of dried- [2011-based] This is very fresh and might have (75cl) fruit notes on the palate. 16 a touch of green to its fruit, but it also has Very fresh and really quite sweet, but very vivacity and energy. 16 easy and enjoyable to drink. What more can Quadra Franciacorta Brut EretiQ NV (75cl) you ask of a basic Non-Vintage? 16 [2009-based] First bottle corked. Second Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Riserva Brut bottle much lighter in color, much fresher on Cuvée No.4 2006 (magnum) La Montina Franciacorta Satèn Brut Argens the nose, with no corkiness and definitely Very fruity, rich, and sunny, but with more NV (prerelease magnum) drinkable, albeit rather strange with a depth and length than elegance. 16 [2010-based] This is definitely better than the phenolic finish.16

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Quadra Franciacorta Brut Qblack NV Ronco Calino Franciacorta Brut NV Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Satèn Brut (magnum) (prerelease magnum) [2010-based] – 15.5 2008 (75cl) – 14 [2009-based] Fresher, lighter, and more Ronco Calino Franciacorta Brut 2008 (75cl) Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 2008 elegant than the 75cl bottle. 16 – 15.5 (75cl) – 14 Uberti Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) – 15.5 La Montina Franciacorta Satèn Brut Argens Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) Antica Fratta Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) NV (75cl) [2009-based] – 14 A tad sweet, but fresh and easy to drink, with [2008-based] – 15 Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Rosé Brut the sweetness lasting on the finish until the Bellavista Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) – 15 Arcadia NV (magnum) – 14 sweetness is all that is left. If I had this in my Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Riserva cellar, I would leave it there a year or two, [2010-based] – 15 Brut Origines 2007 (75cl) – 14 hoping post-disgorgement flavors would Bosio Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) Le Quattro Terre Franciacorta Brut 2009 build to support the finish. If they do, it might [2009+2010-based] – 15 (75cl) – 14 score 1–2 points more. 16 Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Brut Ziliani C NV Majolini Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) – 14 (75cl) – 15 Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Brut NV Ferghettina Franciacorta Extra Brut 2007 Gualberto 2005 (75cl) – 14 (prerelease magnum) (75cl) – 15 Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Fresher and more expressive than the 75cl Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) – 15 Gualberto 2005 (magnum) – 14 bottle, with a softer, more fluffy mousse.16 Monte Rossa Franciacorta Brut PR NV (75cl) Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Extra Brut – 15 Museum Release 2005 (75cl) – 14 San Cristoforo Franciacorta Brut 2009 (75cl) Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Extra Brut Santus Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) – 14 Toasty, with a lovely creamy-soft mousse of Museum Release 2004 (75cl) – 15 Uberti Franciacorta Extra Brut Comarì del the tiniest bubbles. The flavors are a bit strong Ronco Calino Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) Salem 2007 (75cl) – 14 for a classic sparkling wine, but plenty of [2009-based] – 15 Villa Crespia Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero good, ripe acidity in a rewarding style. 16 Santus Franciacorta Rosé Extra Brut NV Numerozero NV (75cl) – 14 (75cl) [2010-based] – 15 Antica Fratta Franciacorta Riserva Extra San Cristoforo Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Santus Franciacorta Rosé Extra Brut NV Brut Quintessence 2007 (magnum) – 13.5 2009 (75cl) (magnum) [2010-based] – 15 Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut NV Toasty rich, with fine fruit and good acids. Uberti Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) – 15 (75cl)[2009-based] – 13.5 This is a good wine, but it lacks the layering of Vignenote Franciacorta Rosé Brut 2009 La Boscaiola Franciacorta Extra Brut Nelson flavors necessary for a higher score.16 (75cl) –15 Cenci NV (75cl) – 13.5 Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2009 La Boscaiola Franciacorta Satèn Brut NV Uberti Franciacorta Satèn Brut Magnificentia (75cl) – 14.5 (75cl) – 13.5 2009 (magnum) Bellavista Franciacorta Brut Gran Cuvée La Montina Franciacorta Brut Aurum 2007 Fresh, toasty fruit supported by a nice pin- 2007 (75cl) – 14.5 (75cl) – 13.5 cushion mousse, which is good but not a top Bosio Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Rosé Brut Satèn—and strangely, the 75cl has the edge [2009+2010-based] – 14.5 Arcadia NV (75cl) – 13.5 over this magnum. Both were disgorged at Castelfaglia Franciacorta Brut Cuvée Villa Crespia Franciacorta Riserva Brut exactly the same time (October 2012), yet the Monogram Giunone 2006 (75cl) –14.5 Riserva dei Consoli 2004 (75cl) – 13.5 magnum is toasty while the bottle is not, Castelfaglia Franciacorta Brut Cuvée Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Extra Brut Ziliani which doesn’t make sense, since toastiness Monogram Giunone 2002 (magnum) – C 2008 (75cl) – 13 should be slower to develop in magnum. 16 14.5 Colline della stella Franciacorta Dosaggio Cavalleri Franciacorta Brut Collezione Gran Zero NV (75cl) [2010-based] – 13 Villa Crespia Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero Crù 2007 (75cl)– 14.5 La Boscaiola Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) Numerozero NV (magnum) Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Riserva Extra – 13 Cleaner, better, and fresher than the 75cl Brut Palazzo Lana Extreme 2006 (75cl) Monte Rossa Franciacorta Brut Cabochon bottle, with more zippy fruit, just let down by – 14.5 2008 (75cl) – 13 some phenolics on the finish.16 La Boscaiola Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero NV Antica Fratta Franciacorta Riserva Extra (75cl) – 14.5 Brut Quintessence 2006 (75cl) – 12.5 Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Brut NV (75cl) – Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Extra Brut Quadra Franciacorta Brut Quvée 39 2008 15.5 NV (75cl) – 14.5 (75cl) – 12.5 Bellavista Franciacorta Brut NV (prerelease Montenisa Franciacorta Rosé Brut NV (75cl) Vignenote Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero NV magnum) – 15.5 [2009-based] – 14.5 (75cl) [2008-based] – 12.5 Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Brut NV Quadra Franciacorta Brut Qblack NV (75cl) Villa Crespia Franciacorta Riserva Dosaggio (prerelease 75cl) [2010-based] – 15.5 [2009-based] – 14.5 Zero Francesco Iacono 2004 (75cl) – 12.5 Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Satèn Brut NV Vignenote Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero NV Bosio Franciacorta Riserva Dosaggio Zero (prerelease magnum) [2010-based] – 15.5 (magnum) [2008-based] – 14.5 Girolamo Bosio 2006 (75cl) – 12 Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Brut Ziliani C NV Castelfaglia Franciacorta Satèn Brut Cuvée Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Brut Ziliani C NV (prerelease magnum) – 15.5 Monogram Giunone 2007 (75cl) – 14 (magnum) – 12 Colline della stella Franciacorta Dosaggio Cavalleri Franciacorta Brut Blanc de Blancs Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Satèn Riserva Zero NV (magnum) [2010-based] – 15.5 NV (75cl) [2010-based] – 14 Brut Palazzo Lana 2004 (75cl) – 12 Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Satèn Brut Cavalleri Franciacorta Brut Blanc de Blancs Lantieri de Paratico Franciacorta Satèn Brut 2008 (magnum) – 15.5 NV (magnum) [2010-based] – 14 NV (75cl) – 12 Guido Berlucchi Franciacorta Rosé Brut Cavalleri Franciacorta Brut Collezione La Valle Franciacorta Brut Primum NV Cellarius 2008 (75cl) – 15.5 Esclusiva 2004 (75cl) – 14 (magnum) [2009-based] – 10.5 La Montina Franciacorta Satèn Brut Argens Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Dosaggio Zero La Valle Franciacorta Brut Primum NV (75cl) NV (magnum) [2009-based] – 15.5 Ziliani C 2008 (75cl) – 14 [2009-based] – 10 Ronco Calino Franciacorta Brut NV Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut NV Santus Franciacorta Brut NV (magnum) (magnum) [2009-based] – 15.5 (magnum) – 14 [2010-based] – 7

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