(Review) TASTINGS Franciacorta: bigger is better An impressive range Brescia in return for the maintenance DOCG status and the delimited region of the road between Iseo and Brescia. restricted to just 19 of the original 23 of 150 wines, in both The reference in the statutes is, in fact, communes. The still red and white bottle and magnum, an injunction issued by the City of wines retained their original DOC Brescia ordering the municipalities of status and could be produced in all 23 allowed Tom Stevenson Gussago and Rodendo to repair the communes, but the appellation was bridge over the River Mella at renamed Terre di Franciacorta. This to assess Franciacorta’s Mandolossa. It is obvious from the name changed again in 2008, and since potential, as well as subtext that the area had been known as then the wines have been sold under Franzacurta for a long time. the Curtefranca DOC. The passito to identify its top Wines have been produced in this wines have been relegated to Sebino area since ancient times, but despite IGT, a denomination that also covers producers, cuvées, the local name, they were not known as a range of still red and white similar and vintages Franciacorta until 1958, when Guido in style though technically inferior to Berlucchi released a still white wine Curtefranca DOC. called Pinot di Franciacorta. It was Franciacorta is in Lombardy, midway Berlucchi who produced the first Vineyards and production between Milan and Venice, abutting sparkling wine in 1961, and by 1967 From the table opposite, we can see that the southern shore of Lake Iseo (below), the wines produced in 23 communes the area under vine for the production a stone’s throw away from Verona. It of Franciacorta were delimited and of Franciacorta DOCG has increased was first mentioned by a variant of its awarded DOC status. The DOC was by 27 percent, Chardonnay reinforcing current name in 1277, when the Eighth for both still and sparkling wines, and its role as the primary grape variety. Book of Statutes of Brescia defined the still wines could be red or white, Of the two secondary varieties, Pinot an area to the south of Lake Iseo, dry or sweet, or passito in style. At this Bianco is still the less planted, but it between the rivers Oglio and Mella, as juncture, there were only 11 sparkling- is expanding at the expense of Pinot “Franzacurta.” This name derived from wine producers and just 29ha (72 acres) Nero, though Pinot Bianco is the only the freedom of payment of any taxes of vineyards. In 1995, the sparkling grape that is restricted (to a maximum for goods transported from the area to wines of Franciacorta were elevated to of 50 percent in any wine). 56 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE ISSUE 43 2014 In 2008 (WFW 20, pp.192–97, until at least 25 months after the harvest Aging: As for Vintage and Non-Vintage. where readers may find additional of the youngest base wine. (This Special note: May be produced by information), I reported that annual compares favorably with Non-Vintage maceration, saignée, or blending. sales of Franciacorta had increased from Champagne, which may be sold 15 Styles: All categories of sweetness 2.9 million to 6.7 million bottles between months after bottling.) except demi-Sec if vintaged and extra- 1996 and 2006. By 2012, with 105 Styles: White and rosé in all categories dry, sec, and demi-sec if riserva. producers and growing, the turnover of of sweetness, plus Satèn in brut only. Italy’s most famous sparkling wine had Franciacorta Vintage or Millesimato more than doubled, to 13.85 million Franciacorta Satèn Grapes: Dependent on style (see above). bottles, yet Franciacorta remains Grapes: Primarily Chardonnay, with the Aging: Must be at least 85% from the boutique-sized vis-à-vis Champagne’s possibility of up to 50% Pinot Bianco. vintage indicated on the label, and may 300-million-bottle industry. Aging: As for Vintage and Non-Vintage. not be sold until at least 37 months Special note: This is a lower-pressure after the date of that harvest, including Officially designated categories “crémant” style blanc de blancs that a minimum of 30 months on yeast. All Franciacorta DOCG wines must be must be less that 5 atmospheres (This is more relaxed than vintaged produced by the traditional method, (compared to 5–6 atmospheres for Champagne, which is “not less than 36 (the second fermentation taking place Franciacorta in general) and is often, months from the date of tirage.”) in the bottle in which it will be sold): but not always, fermented in barriques. Styles: Pas dosé, extra-brut, brut, and Styles: Brut only. extra-dry, with the exception of Satèn, Non-vintage Franciacorta which may only be sold as brut. Grapes: Chardonnay and/or Pinot Franciacorta Rosé Nero, with the possibility of up to 50% Grapes: A minimum of 25% Pinot Nero Franciacorta Riserva Pinot Bianco. (increased from 15%), plus the Grapes: Dependent on style (see above). Aging: A minimum of 18 months on possibility of Chardonnay and up to a Aging: Must be at least 85% from the yeast; these wines may not be released maximum of 50% Pinot Bianco. vintage indicated on the label and may not be sold until at least 67 months FRANCIACORTA DOCG AREA UNDER VINE BY VARIETY after the date of that harvest, including a minimum of 60 months on yeast. 2008 area (ha) 2014 area (ha) Special note: Effectively an Total area under vine 2,200 (100%) 2,800 (100%) authenticated “late disgorgement.” Chardonnay 1,804 (82%) 2,380 (85%) Styles: Pas dosé, extra-brut, and brut, Pinot Noir 308 (14%) 280 (10%) with the exception of Satèn, which may Pinot Bianco 88 (4%) 140 (5%) be sold only as brut. Photography by Jon Wyand by Photography ISSUE 43 2014 THE WORLD OF FINE WINE 57 (review) The tasting The reason for my visit to Franciacorta was to taste comprehensively and comparatively, which could only be achieved at a central location. I was staying at Relais Mirabella on the Colline Mirabella, immediately above Clusane sul Lago, where the rooms have a stunning view over Lake Iseo, but further up the collina, the hotel has an event facility called La Catilina. This venue has an even more magnificent view, and its light and tranquillity proved ideal for serious tasting. I asked producers to submit their best-selling Non-Vintage and Vintage wines (whatever the style), both in 75cl bottle and 150cl magnum. If a producer wanted to submit other cuvées, that was fine, but the best- sellers were obligatory. This allowed I expected the magnums to be of the very same wine tells me that it is me to judge Franciacorta not on special superior, which normally translates as more a matter of bottle format than cuvées but at entry level—the sort of more finesse, and as the wines mature, climate per se. Franciacorta most people drink most the increased freshness is magnified. This is both encouraging and of the time. I asked to taste not just I did not expect the gap between 75cl worrying. It is encouraging because, the current release but also the next bottles and magnums to be as great as from the evidence of the magnums, release, again in bottle and magnum. it was. In almost all wines (there were Franciacorta is already achieving This enabled me to judge each producer only four exceptions), the magnums much greater quality than anyone had not on a single wine, but to assess the were significantly superior, but the imagined. A lot of critics are already quality and consistency in the pipeline. surprise was that in no less than one impressed by Franciacorta, but they third of the wines (from two thirds of all should be even more impressed now. Conclusions the producers I tasted), the difference However, it is worrying for some Overall, this was one of the most affected not simply how much I could critics (myself included), who have impressive tastings across the board I recommend a wine but whether I written off wines that were obviously have experienced in any sparkling- could recommend it at all. In the most and intrinsically of a much higher wine region outside Champagne. Part extreme instances, the bottles could be quality in magnum. More important, of the learning curve of any sparkling- absolutely dire, while the magnums however, it is worrying for producers, wine region is to bottle in magnum. were truly superb; it was as if they had who need to research why there should The so-called magnum effect come from two different producers or, be a much greater difference between provides a window into the future, even, two different regions! In most the quality in 75cl bottles and magnums illustrating to the producers themselves cases, though, the superiority of the in Franciacorta than elsewhere. Since what they are capable of achieving magnum was due to an absence of the the wine is the same, there must be a long before they reach that level in oxidative aroma that pervaded the 75cl problem with oxygen ingress in the 75cl bottles. It also demonstrates the bottles to one degree or another. And if 75cl bottles that does not affect the maturity of a region’s customer base, it was not an oxidative issue, it was magnums. Assuming that SO2 levels because only serious, potentially loyal the size, weight, and richness of fruit, are correct, the first item that must be consumers understand the benefit of which has often been seen as too big checked is the oxygen ingress of the magnums and will bother to buy them.