BRUSSELS © Shopping, Consistently Excellentdiningatallpriceranges,Sublimechocolate Shops Anda the Trulygrandgrandplaceissurely Oneoftheworld’Smostbeautiful Squares

Home , Arcade du Cinquantenaire, Brussels City Museum, Chocolate fountain, Cirque Royal, Grand Place, Place de la Vaillance

BRUSSELS © shopping, consistently excellentdiningatallpriceranges,sublimechocolate shops anda the trulygrandGrandPlaceissurely oneoftheworld’smostbeautiful squares. fromBrussels’medievalcore, This where wholemaelstromswirlsforth city’s southernflank. hidden insuburbanparksandagloriousbeechforest deepintothe extends extraordinarily contrast withthebrutalglassofEU’sreal-life GothamCity.World-classmuseumslie nouveau facadesfaceoffagainst1960sconcrete disgraces. Regal19th-centurymansions of overlapping yetdistinctivetimetounderstand. Organic neighbourhoodsthattakes art block frommajestictoquirkygrimilyrundownandbackagain.It’sacomplexpatchwork versus Eurocrat versus immigrant.Andallthisplaysoutonacityscapethatswingsblockby consistent intheirvery incoherence –Francophoneversus Flemish,Bruxellois versus Belgian multicultural toitsroots. The city’scontrastsandtensions are multilayered yetsomehow simultaneously historicyethip,bureaucratic yetbizarre, selfconfidentyetun-showyand The fascinating capitalofBelgium andEurope ofboth.It’s sumsupallthecontradictions Brussels 62 outlook onlife isoften justassurreal astheclassicBrussels-painted canvasesofMagritte. Its citizens have approachtoeverything. alow-key Andtheirquietlyhumorous,deadpan youdrunkforyears.scene thatcouldkeep ButBrusselsdoesn’t gooutofitswaytoimpress. 

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e Nine of them arranged like aschoolchemistrysetformtheamazing AtomiumBig ballsNineofthemarrangedlike ( p90 ) annex ( p82 ), withitsshinynewMagritte Museum at theMuséesRoyauxdesBeaux-Arts historyOldmastersArt andsurrealists ’itie (p87 ) d’Histoire et lurk inthevastMusées Royauxd’Art Forgotten treasure riches Extraordinary (p85) Naturelles life atthemagnificentMuséedesSciences Dino discovery Palaeontology comesto (p82) masterpieces Building ( p82 nouveau) –oneofmanyart nouveau OldEnglandArt The wonderful scattered aroundtheBourse( p103 ) Drinkers’ delightCafés ofclassics ancientandmodern,includinganinspiringselection Grand Place( p76 ) Europe’s mostbeautifulsquare? l y

P l a n e t Ponderthequestionover afew beersonthegorgeous  LANGUAGES : FRENCH &DUTCH Grand Place Classic Cafés des Beaux-Arts Royaux Musées Atomium Building Old England Sciences Naturelles Musée des d'Art etd'Histoire Musées Royaux Tervuren café

BRUSSELS 63 Ste- , then , then Musée ( p100 ) ) p100 ( L’Arbre L’Arbre Galeries St- Galeries (see the boxed (see the boxed

of Ixelles ( p88 ), ), p88 ( of Ixelles Cinquantenaire Cinquantenaire Perroquet

café ( p85 ), Magritte Museum Magritte Tof person . Admire the colourful the . Admire scene ( p90 ) or your free beer at ) or your free p90 ( ( p90 ), peruse the comic-strip murals ), peruse the comic-strip murals p90 (

art nouveau houses art nouveau , where Magritte himself used to booze. himself used to booze. Magritte , where Jeanneke Pis Jeanneke Meanwhile, the cloth trade was booming. By Meanwhile, From 1519 Brussels came to interna- ( p103 ) or one of the other fabulous classic other fabulous classic ) or one of the p103 ( folk blamed the lord of Gaasbeek and took Gaasbeek and took folk blamed the lord of 1549 Charles’ future-successor, Philip II of II of Philip 1549 Charles’ future-successor, Spain, was welcomed to the city in an in- that today forms the pageant lavish credibly ). But fanati- p17 the Ommegang ( basis of with cally Catholic was unimpressed Philip Protestantism. His brewing the lowlanders’ revenge by burning down his castle ( p113 ). ). p113 castle ( by burning down his revenge ’t Serclaes’ statue of Today, an anachronistic ) is still considered p77 corpse (Grand Place 8, luck. of source a potent filled the the 15th century, prosperous markets around the Grand Place selling productsstreets still named: Rue au Beurre some are for which St) (Butchers’ St), Rue des Bouchers (Butter wealthy merchant etc. The city’s increasingly on the guilds established their headquarters medieval tournaments and Grand Place, where took place in the shadow of public executions de Ville. a towering Hôtel ). In p27 (see Empire Quint’s vast Hapsburg tional prominence as capital of Charles Charles tional prominence as capital of Atomium Atomium Cirio Chinese Pagoda Musée des Sciences Naturelles des Sciences Naturelles Musée ( p104 ) to sample a range of fine Belgian beers. Quickly Quickly beers. to sample a range of fine Belgian ) p104 ( ( p217 ), and meet up with a p217 ( ( p76 ), Brussels’ gorgeous central square. Discover that the that the Discover central square. gorgeous ), Brussels’ p76 ( and preen a little as you stroll past the antique shops and stroll past the antique shops and a little as you and preen ( p92 ),

( p78 ), then move on for a seafood lunch in the convivial on for a seafood ), then move p78 ( ( p82 ), nip across the road to the new p82 ( dwelling) by dwelling) by La Fleur en Papier Doré La Fleur en Papier ( p76 ) for three intense pre-paid days of brilliant museums, but pre-paid days of brilliant museums, but intense ) for three p76 ( ( p78 ). Admire the cityscape as well as the musical instruments at the as well as the musical instruments at the the cityscape ). Admire p78 ( Délirium Café Délirium sella, ( p91 ), visit the unique p91 ( Grand Place then grab a drink in the

Palais de Justice Palais Africa Museum Africa Bourse ( p79 ) Waterloo Battlefield Waterloo Brusselscard ( p77 ) is much smaller than you’d imagined then stroll through the then stroll through imagined ) is much smaller than you’d p77 ( BRUSSELS •• History Rue des Bouchers Rue des Bouchers marsh, and marsh, area ( p104 ). Window shop up Rue Antoine Dansaert,). Window exploring the compact, quirky p104 ( area ( p87 ), Old England Building en route to finding his ‘squatting sister’, the finding his ‘squatting sister’, to en route

). ( p102 Santé! ( p77 ) on the Grand Place. Once the card has expired discover lambic beers at the lambic beers at the discover Once the card has expired ) on the Grand Place. p77 ( bruoc, s around the

bus out to the ( p81 ), discover the restaurants, cultural complexities and the restaurants, ), discover p81 ( d’Or de la Gueuze Bruxellois remember to start it on a Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday or Friday – otherwise you’ll ‘waste’ a a or Friday – otherwise you’ll ‘waste’ Wednesday, Thursday to startremember a Tuesday, it on don’t miss the day. With the card in hand cafés One Week One Week Buy a 72-hour One Day One Day at the wonder Gape in BRUSSELS IN… IN… BRUSSELS museums text, p87 ). And all the while, never stop drinking your way through our list of inspirational stop drinking). And all the while, never your way through our list of inspirational p87 text, Manneken Pis Manneken Hubert a drink in the eccentric have the bulky Admire in the art an exotic pita snack the Sablon. Have people on nouveau pretty that is the Fashion District District Fashion Catherine café majestic or head straight to lively realise that you should have stayed a week.should have that you realise HISTORY HISTORY for ever more civic privileges, a stance which a stance which civic privileges, for ever more finally saw in 1388. This him assassinated in Brussels, whosecaused towns- a furore considerable jubilation. ’t Serclaes went on to become a prominent local leader fighting by Everard ’t Serclaes , ejected the Flemish to the Flemish to , ejected ’t Serclaes by Everard Count of Flanders, then Brabant’s neighbour- Flanders, Count of hood enemy, invaded and seized Brussels. Brussels citizens, led However, a year later, was a walled settlement and capital of the was a walled settlement the and capital of Duke Brabant. In 1229 Brabant’s of Duchy Brussels the first charter I published Henri for (and expecta-guaranteeing protection tions of) the town’s citizens. In 1355 the island amid flowering irises, which have since since island amid flowering irises, have which become the city’s symbol. By 1100 Bruocsella 979 when Charles, Duke of Lorraine moved Lorraine moved of 979 when Charles, Duke built a fort on St-Géry from Cambrai. He here around it had become known as Bruocsella around it had become known as Bruocsella (from According to legend, St-Géry built a chapel St-Géry built a chapel According to legend, on a swampy Senne (Zenne) island River back in AD 695. A settlement that grew lonelyplanet.com BRUSSELS Cultural Capital of Europein 2000finallygaveCultural Capital now widelyknown as ings, aformof architectural vandalism that’s make wayformediocre concrete office build- once-finetal’s architecture was torndownto progress andmodernism,much of thecapi- (later inthecity’sdrive EU).However, for became theheadquarters of NATO andEEC growthwasfurtherboosted whenit Brussels’ traordinary constructions,theAtomium ( p90 . Fair intheshadowof oneof theera’smostex- war optimismbyhostingthe1958 World’s scathed. Thecityunderlinedaneweraof post- bothworldwars comparatively un- survived buildings. nouveau some of Europe’sfinestbelleépoque andart with lavished died,Brussels itself Congolese II’s plunderof theCongo. Whilemillionsof industrial revolution alongwithKingLéopold the nextcentury,greatly fundedbyWallonia’s mously inbothpopulationandstature during 100,000 people. thecitygrew However, enor- independence. unexpected boxed text, p107 toentirely ) thatledBelgium point of thecurious1830‘operatic’revolt (see provedIn 1830Brussels theunlikely starting eras of French andDutch rulethatfollowed. were builtduringthistimeandinthebrief Many of theUpperTown’sarchitectural gems pletion of (1784). theroyalpalaceatLaeken grand squares such as PlaceRoyaleandcom- withtheconstructionofurban development, impressive thanthey’d before.been halls were rebuilt, more makingthemeven within five years mostof thesquare’s guild- relatively And Hôtel intact. deVille survived virtually obliterated miraculouslythe though billion intoday’sterms). TheGrandPlacewas at 50millionflorins(equivalenttosome€5 contemporary estimates calculated damages a thirdof thecitywasreduced torubbleand wereAround 4000houses destroyed,around stage). Thedamage wastrulycatastrophic. being temporarily occupiedbyFranceatthis from itsattempts toregain Namur(Namur 36 hours, hopingtodivert Dutch attention Marshal for DeVilleroybombardedBrussels Maison du Roi. Counts Egmont andHoorninfrontof the executions of includingthose anti-Spanish Spanish Inquisitionresulted of inthousands 64 Unlike much of thecountry,Brussels washometoaroundAt thisstage Brussels Austrian ruleinthe18thcenturyfostered In 1695,LouisXIV’sFrench armyunder RSES • retto BRUSSELS ••Orientation Brusselization . Astintas to the capital’s Africancommunitywhilefur-to thecapital’s multicultural area of and museums snooty Sablon. Town (Map pp72–3 ) andthemuch grander the partlygentrified working-class p70 ) aroundtheimposingGrandPlace, historic core includesthe and the like). century forhealthreasons (cholera outbreaks having covered been over inthelate 19th- River iseffectively invisible, The centralSenne gon alonglinesthatwere oncethecitywalls. penta- smaller ‘innerring’thattracesarough thus invisibleonmanymaps)linktoamuch (and nectors involvinglongtunnelsections con- toJune. Lengthy fic fromSeptember gets blocked almostsolidwithrush-hour traf- (‘R0’), afar-from-ring-shaped motorway that Most of issurroundedby ‘the Ring’ Brussels attention. await areas whileplentyof grimyurbanareas still tinued apaceintheEUandBruxelles-Midi steel-and-glass redevelopmentbrutal hascon- up neglected neighbourhoods. Nonetheless, protecting heritage buildingsandsprucing properly tostart the citypushitneeded World’s Fair, the Atomium. intriguing space-age leftover from the1958 royal familylives andin Further north, day portonthe Charleroi–Antwerp canal. Molenbeek bling aminiature Manhattan. Post-industrial new tower-block businessdistrictresem- red-light district,yettoitsnorthliesa shiny southeast of isapink-windowed thestation (Map pp68–9 ) andtheGare duNord.Directly hoods of down, ifoncegrand,immigrantneighbour- St-Gilles architecture, asissomewhatdown-at-heel which is liberallydotted withartnouveau vibrant upmarket Ave runssouththrough Louise Cambre, thepatchily grand, est parkatLa quarter archmental of the ther east,between ORIENTATION Best explored on foot, Central Brussels’ explored onfoot,Central Best Just northof theinnerring lietherun- Southeast of theinnerring,vibrantly Built byLéopoldIItoaccesshisnewfor- (Map pp68–9 ) withitsroyalbuildings, ( p85 ). (Map pp72–3 ) toits direct west. Ixelles Schaerbeek (Map pp66–7 ) isthecity’smodern- (Elsene inDutch; Map (Elsene pp72–3 ), Laeken (Map pp66–7 ) and Etterbeek Cinquantenaire is where the Belgium’s iswhere theBelgium’s Matonge Heysel Lower Town andthemonu- lonelyplanet.com ( p89 ) ishome you’llfindthat , liesthe Marolles (Map St-Josse Upper EU

BRUSSELS 65 24hr,

(per 24hr 02-502 1407; emergency (per article % 02-535 3111; www h 02-648 4014; www % (Map p70 ; Rue Haute 7; p70 (Map (Continued on page 76) page on (Continued Luggage lockers Luggage % 02-219 5493; Rue de Flandre 02-219 5493; Rue de Flandre ( (Map ; p70 Luggage office Luggage (Map pp72-3 ; Rue Montserrat 9; pp72-3 (Map % 8am-6pm Mon-Fri) Old-fashioned, 9am-10am & 5pm-6pm Mon-Fri) 24hr) English-speaking crisis hel- (Map p70 ; Rue du Marché au Char- p70 (Map (Map pp72-3 ; h 24hr) Three terminals oddly plonked24hr) Three in 5.30am-11pm) Self-service laundrette. 5.30am-11pm) Self-service 6am-9pm); 11am-11.30pm) Typical phone shop. 11am-11.30pm) Typical h h (Map p70 ; p70 (Map h h h h (street/avenue) always come first while in first while in always come (street/avenue) Other central options: 118; per hr €1; pline. Can also help find English-speaking doctors, dentists professionals. and other health .chsbelgium.org; small/large €3/4) Maximum 72 hours for lockers. small/large €3/4) Maximum 72 hours per day €2.50; bon; per hr €2; per 5kg load €6.50; laundrette. full-service a central all-night grocery store. a central all-night consultation 8am-5pm) Central hospital offering emer- consultation 8am-5pm) Central hospital offering gency assistance. Hôpital St-Pierre .stpierre-bru.be;Haute 290-322; Rue per load €3.20; Salon Lavoir de la Chapelle Left Luggage Bruxelles -Midi Station Medical Services Help Service Community BreusegemDr Van Clinic 12; Rue L Lepage appointment €23. Central location. Consultations without Belgium Internet Touistrading Laundry Aquatic Wash Laundry rue/avenue 10am-7pm 02-217 5246; h % 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 02-223 6223; www.ster h 02-219 2708; Blvd Adolphe % s. Matonge has numer- s. Matonge (Map p70 ; p70 (Map % 02-209 2211; www.fnac.be; City 02-209 2211; www.fnac.be; of the Brussels Capital Region (Brussels Hoofdstedelijk Gewest in Dutch, Région Gewest in Dutch, Région (Brussels Hoofdstedelijk Region Brussels Capital of the are tacked on to the end. This allows for a space-saving trick when the core for a space-saving allows tacked to the end. This on are trick when the core café % BRUSSELS •• Information laan / (Map p70 ; p70 (Map 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-6pm Sun) (Map p70 ; p70 (Map

communes h straat

Brussels is surrounded by Flanders, where all signs are in Dutch. So for places like Tervuren, in Dutch. So for places like Tervuren, are all signs Flanders, where Brussels is surrounded by

(Map pp68-9 ; pp68-9 (Map BILINGUAL BRUSSELS BRUSSELS BILINGUAL 19 The Dutch de Bruxelles-Capitale in French) comprise the only area in Belgium that’s officially bilingual. that’s officially bilingual. in Belgium comprise the only area in French) de Bruxelles-Capitale but in (the French) of each name version only used one in this book we have For simplicity explains That two versions. are fact signs, you name it, there train stations, road on buildings, saying the same In fact they’re long. why certainlook so flabbergastingly names Brussels street Rue de l’Ecuyer (French) Schildknaapstraat’, both in ‘Rue de l’Ecuyer For example, thing twice. the two the grammatical form of Handily, Street. Squire (Dutch) mean and Schildknaapstraat terms French languages means that the but beyond Brussels’ official in this chapter (the airport) covered and Grimbergen Zaventem want to see normally placid in Dutch. If you given names are boundary, the street regional them what they think about the six Faciliteitengemeente/ ask get inexplicably heated, Belgians Dutch but in reality people ‘should’ speak on the edge of Brussels (where Communes à Facilité the majority speak French). name doesn’t need translating, ie a sign might end up reading something like ‘Ave Maxlaan’ (ie Maxlaan’ (ie something like ‘Ave ie a sign might end up reading name doesn’t need translating, in Bruxellois add a third version names even street In the Marolles, Max Avenue). Ave literally (the city’s traditional dialect).

Brussels has numerous train stations. INFORMATION INFORMATION lingbooks.be; Rue du Fossé aux Loups 38; lingbooks.be; Mon-Sat, noon-6.30pm Sun) English-language bookshop play area. with comfy sofas and a kids’ Rue du Fossé aux Loups 34) Travel specialist. Rue du Fossé aux Loups 34) Travel 2 shopping centre, Rue Neuve; 2 shopping centre, ticketing to 8pm Fri) Book department-store with events agency. Max 71-75; Large English-language bookshop with numerous interna- magazines. tional

Cercle des Voyageurs ( p104 ), Zabar ( p105 ) p105 ), Zabar ( p104 Cercle ( des Voyageurs and many other Internet Access Internet Access ), the p76 Info ( at Flanders wi-fi free There’s Waterstones ous phone-internet shops. ous phone-internet Sterling Books FNAC Anticyclone des Açores historic centre. Use Bruxelles-Luxembourg or Bruxelles-Luxembourg Use historic centre. EU Area. for the Bruxelles-Schuman Bookshops necting train (four minutes) to subterranean to subterranean necting train (four minutes) Bruxelles-Central, is handiest for the which stark tower buildings. Generally contemporary advised to hop straight on any con- you’re at Bruxelles-Midi, whose down-at-heelat Bruxelles-Midi, sur- by punctuated gradually being roundings are Major international services international arrive Major invariably lonelyplanet.com BRUSSELS

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(see 94) Manufacture Belge de Martin Margiela...... Neuhaus...... Nicolas Woit...... ENTERTAINMENT Ancienne Belgique...... Arenburg Cinema...... Arsene50...... (see 141) Beursschouwburg...... Bizon ...... Bronks Youth Theatre ...... Caroline Music...... Chez Maman ...... Cinema Nova...... Club des Halles...... (see 35) Dr Vinyl...... (see 90) La Monnaie/De Munt...... L'Archiduc ...... Maison de la Bellone ...... Music Village...... Théâtre du Vaudeville...... (see 24) Théâtre Royal de Toone ...... UGC De Brouckère Imanza...... Kafka ...... La Fleur en Papier Dorè...... Le Belgica ...... Le Cercueil ...... (see 54) Le Cirio ...... Le Greenwich...... Le Roy d'Espagne...... Les Postiers...... L'Homo Erectus...... Los Romanticos...... Métropole Café...... (see 66) Moeder Lambic Mokafé ...... Monk...... Poechenellekelder ...... Toone...... (see 152) Zebra...... 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Nouveau Tower)...... Home RSES • aols aln&Iels Sablon&Ixelles BRUSSELS ••Marolles, 31 21 19 18 13 11 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 20 17 16 15 14 12 10 8 7 6 9 5 4 3 2 1 D2 D1 D1 D2 D2 D6 D2 D3 D2 G5 H5 G2 G1 H5 H5 C5 C3 C5 C2 C5 B2 E6 E6 F3 E5 F4 E2 E5 E5 F2 E1 Quim's...... Station...... Midi Atome...... L'Ultime Oignons...... Petits Les Brassins...... Les Perroquet...... Le Choses...... des Hasard Le ...... Framboisier Le ...... Tsampa La Quincaillerie...... La ...... Air Imagin' Tempo...... Easy ...... Dolma Garance...... de Cinabre Oki...... Chez Stekerlapatte...... Au Coeur...... Bon Au EATING ...... thewhitehotel ...... Stanhope Hôtel ...... Rembrandt Hôtel Galia...... Hôtel Ville...... en Chambres SLEEPING ...... Memorial WWI Hall...... Town St-Gilles Prison...... St-Gilles (Art 83 Faider Rue ...... 6 Lac du Rue 71 Defacqz Rue RuedeSavoie66(Art aauSanatsu...... Yamayu Wittamer...... Voir...... D'y Tour ...... Zaline Tartine ...... Boniface Saint ...... Tomate Rouge ...... Restobières ova House)...... Nouveau House)...... Nouveau Art (Hanker's House)...... Nouveau @ i 35 33 32 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 34 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 D2 D1 D2 D2 D3 D6 D2 G3 G4 G5 G1 G2 H5 G5 A2 C5 C2 C5 B3 F5 E5 F2 F3 E2 E5 F5 F5 E6 F5 F3 F3 E1 E1 F2 F2 F4 Avis...... TRANSPORT Wittamer...... Marcolini...... Pierre Strelli...... Olivier ...... d'Édouard Enfants Les L'Ecuyer...... Market...... Flea Daily Beermania...... Cherche-Midi...... Au ...... Market Antique SHOPPING Tanneurs...... Les Thèâtre Club...... Jazz Sounds 79) Démence...... (see La Fuse...... de Royal Conservatoire 15) Arsene50...... (see ENTERTAINMENT Zabar...... Nexx ...... Caffè Natural ...... Lambic Moeder ...... L'Inattendu ...... Kuumba Florian...... Comptoir 15) ...... (see Belga Café ...... Ploegmans Brasserie Brasseriedela Espresso Blomqvists DRINKING E u W...... Bus TEC 4) ...... (see Kiosk Branch STIB Cyclistes...... des Maison Elevator...... Charleroi to Bus Budget...... Musique...... Renaissance...... Bar Airport...... ?8 f À lonelyplanet.com 78 69 68 93 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 81 80 79 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 96 95 94 92 D1 D3 D2 D2 G2 G3 H4 G2 G2 A3 C5 C2 C2 C3 C5 B2 E2 F2 F6 E1 E1 E3 F4 F5 E1 E1 F5 F2 E4 BRUSSELS 75 BRUSSELS •• Transport Map lonelyplanet.com BRUSSELS Fri, Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) .airstop.be; BlvdEmileJacqmain76; from hostelsor by download. whenthe officeisclosed,andalso a doordispensereven local tipsandirreverent humour. Copies are availablefrom are fullofspot-on 5pm Sat).Theirsuperbfree guide-maps de l’Écuyer; h Sat); pp72-3 ; Ave Fonsny1e; 10.30am-4.30pmSat); 6pm Mon-Fri, to impress. Andfurther afieldare numer- has animmediate wow factorthatrarely fails The medieval grandeurof theGrandPlace SIGHTS Connections Airstop Agencies Travel Use-It Flanders Info Espace Wallonie-Bruxelles Brussels International BIP Information Tourist Postoffice Post good exchange rates without commission. 5.30pm Mon-Thu, 9am-6pm Fri) Airport. atBruxelles-MidiBourse, andBrussels station ATMs andexchange facilitiesare foundnearthe Money 65) page from (Continued 76 right ). BoothatBruxelles-Midi train station. discount bookletsandtheBrusselscard(seeboxed text, crammedfull,itsells located insidethetownhall.Often office, Mon-Sat, Mon-Suninsummer)Themaincitytourist www.brusselsinternational.be; GrandPlace; sels andWallonia, not Flanders. hall, BrusselsAirport; arrivals 0200, 02-7255275;www.belgique-tourisme.net; h 19; RueduMidi 02-550 0130;www.connections.be; information are availablebutno financial transactions. Brussels International(see above and ). Hotelbookings office. tourist More spaciousandmuchlesscrowdedthan Rue Royale2-4; information, obviously. Free wi-fi. ForFlanders closed1-2pmweekends) 4pm SunOct-Mar, to Apr-June 9am-7pmJul-Aug,9am-5pmOct-Mar, &Sep, auxHerbes63; flanders.com; RueduMarché 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) Mp pp68-9; (Map City 2shoppingcentre RSES • ihs BRUSSELS ••Sights (Map (Map p70 ; Mp p70; (Map Eurogold Eurogold h

Main (Map (Map p70 ; (Map (Map p70 ; h 9am-12.30pm & 1-6pm Tue-Fri &1pm- 9am-12.30pm &1-6pmTue-Fri (Map (Map p70 ; BlvdAnspach1; % % % 10am-6pm) Official Brusselsregion 10am-6pm) Official (Map (Map p70 ; RuedelaBourse32; h 02-725 5275; www.use-it.be; Rue 02-725 5275;www.use-it.be; 02-548 0458;www.biponline.be; h high toll070-233188;www (Map (Map pp68-9 ; RueNeuve; % 8am-9pm) InformationonBrus- (Map (Map p70 ; % 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, high toll070-233313, (Map (Map pp66-7 ; 02-504 0390;www.visit offers comparatively h Gare duMidi % 10am-6pm Mon- 02-513 8940; h h h % 9am-6pm 9am-6pm (Map (Map 8am- 02-504 h 9am- Hall; Map Hall; Map blestone square isonlyrevealed asyouenter cob- Oddlyhidden,theenclosed ensembles. is oneof theworld’smostunforgettable urban magnificent Brussels’ Grand Place(Map p70 ) Grand Place lous anddroppingregularlydetails intothefabu- chitectural styles,spotting thequirkylittle streets, enjoyingthebizarre mismatch of ar- isfoundsimplywanderingthein Brussels Butmuch ofous excellentmuseums. thefun splendid, slightly asymmetric splendid, slightly 1444and1480, the built between Laboriously HALL)HÔTEL DEVILLE (CITY biennial ‘flowercarpet’ (see p18 ). fairs torockconcertstheextraordinary square hostanythingfromChristmas might flower market andatvariousothertimesthe Wednesday andFridaymornings there’s a (and tastefully) illuminated. OnMonday, whenthe scene ismagically again atnight visit more thanonceanddon’tmiss looking on different aurasatdifferent times.Tryto andelaborate gilded statues guild symbols. bitionists adornedwithfinebaroquegables, charm of itsown.Mostare unashamed exhi- antique guildhalls(mostly1697–1705)hasa 15th-century cityhallbuteach of thefabulous des Harengs isthebest first approach. on footfromoneof sixnarrowsidealleys:Rue Alive withclassic The focalpointisthemagnificentlyspired 24/48/72 hours€20/28/33) stripe hasbeenproperlyvalidated. thepass,ensurecollecting thatitsmagnetic most museumscloseMondays. Andwhen yourdates don’tforgetWhen picking that ger museums. onlinesaves Pre-paying €1. ( left ), sixSTIBagenciesandfourofthebig- available throughBrusselsInternational someshopsandrestaurants.tractions, It’s plusdiscountsforotherat- city transport into 30majormuseumsandprovides free is withthe cheapest waytoseeabunchoftopsites ums are free toenter. At othertimesthe month, mostofBrussels’majormuse- On thefirstWednesdayafternoon ofeach DISCOUNTS &FREEBIES café p70; s en route. % Brusselscard visitors office 02-2794347) cafés, . The cardgetsyou

(www.brusselscard.be; thesquare takes lonelyplanet.com Hôtel deVille Hôtel was almost wasalmost (City (City

BRUSSELS

has a fine 10am-12.30pm Brewery Manneken Pis grand café café grand . This foun- In 1847 this In 1847 h 02-213 4450; Rue de Six 1698 houses % 10am-5pm daily Easter- 10am-5pm daily Victor Hugo lived here h Musée du Costume et de la Dentelle 02-511 4987; www.beerparadise.be; 02-511 4987; www.beerparadise.be; Now a particularly splendid % ( Dukes’ of Brabant Mansion

The present-day bronze Manneken Pis Pis bronze Manneken The present-day CHANSON & LACE LACE & CHANSON la Violette 12; adult/Brusselscard €3/free; la Violette 12; adult/Brusselscard €3/free; whose upper storey rooms (when open) offer fine views offer rooms (when open) whose upper storey the square. across Notice the hop plants climbing columns here. Still the Still the plants climbing columns here. Notice the hop headquarters,Belgian brewers’ two atmospheric but rooms now house a cursory small basement The excellent ; Costume & Lace Museum; p70 (Map Thu & Fri, 2-5pm Sat & Sun) & 1.30-5pm Mon, Tue, however, research, collection. At the time of toting hoards three blocks to the blocks toting hoards three l’Étuve & Rue du Chêne) ; cnr Rue de p70 (Map leak is comically tiny and a perversely perfect Belgium. national symbol for surreal More is than not the tiny statue’s nakedness often to hidden beneath a costume relevant largely national day or local event. an anniversary, on http://ordre The costume diary is posted His (in French). -manneken-pis.blogspot.com is partly displayed at wardrobe ever-growing ). opposite Roi ( du the Maison Duquesnoy by Jerôme design was sculpted in 1619, but it’s not the original. A stone from Julian stood here named Little version the mid-14th century. 13-19: 24-25: La Chaloupe d’Or (The Boat) – Golden Dressmakers 26-27: Le Pigeon – Artists South of Grand Place PIS MANNEKEN Gogh posing Don’t be surprised to ‘meet’ Van on Rue Charles Buls, Brussels’ unasham- most whose street, shopping edly tourist-oriented shops lead the camera- and trinket chocolate 9: Le Cygne (The9: Le Cygne Swan) – Butchers 10: L’Arbre d’Or (The Tree) Golden – Brewers Museum behind a single palatial facade reworkedbehind a single palatial facade in 1882. Had the imperial way after governor had his 1695, the whole like this. would have lookedsquare rather during his exile from France in 1852. during his exile from France adult/Brusselscard €6/free, €6/free, adult/Brusselscard Entry includes a Nov, noon-5pm Sat & Sun Dec-Easter). antiquated and delightfully beer supped amid barrels seem overpriced if you’re Tickets tools. wooden brewers’ opportunity it’s a great paying but with the Brusselscard drink.free for a lovely house hosted Karllovely house Marx. it’s now home to Ironically restaurant. finest upmarketthe square’s tain-statue of a little boy cheerfully takingtain-statue a little boy cheerfully a of 10am- guided h Incredibly Incredibly The golden Stern-shaped Now the cafe Le Le Now the cafe 02-279 4350; www.bru % (

The square’s smallest building, smallest building, The square’s (Wedding Procession). BRUSSELS •• Sights 3.15pm Tue & Wed year-round, 12.15pm Sun & Wed 3.15pm Tue , turn up at Brussels, turn up at International whose old maps, architectural relics relics whose old maps, architectural h Notice the faint gold wheelbarrows above the (€3;

Brussels City Museum where city hero Everard ’t Serclaes ( p63 ) died in 1388. A 1388. A ) died in p63 city hero Everard ’t Serclaeswhere ( fairly contemporary ‘tradition’ claims you’ll garner good luck by rubbing a 1902 brass statue of Everard’s reclining from corpse. Holes have been worn into Everard’s forearm The statue adorns the house’s arcaded all the rubbing. north wall in Rue Charles Buls, the road separating the house from the Hôtel de Ville. Also notice the lovely 1899 gilded art nouveau plaque dedicated to the city by its appreciative artists. Roy d’Espagne. The gilded bronze bust above the door is The gilded bronze bust above the Roy d’Espagne. St-Aubert. Bakers’ patron, door. The statue of St-Gilles was added in 1912. The statue of St-Gilles was added door. gable. phoenix rising from the ashes signifies the rebirth of the bombardment. Grand Place after the 1695 7: Le Renard (The Fox) – Haberdashers 8: L’Étoile (The Star) 6: Le Cornet (The Horn) – Boatmen 5: La Louve (The She-Wolf ) – Archers 4: Le Sac (The Bag) – Cabinet-makers 2: La Brouette (The – Grease- Wheelbarrow) makers with their original guild where appropriate: where with their original guild 1: Maison des Boulangers – Bakers guildhouses are listed here according to their here listed guildhouses are number and traditional name, along street HOUSES & GUILDHALLS HOUSES & GUILDHALLS buildings and The Grand Place’s gorgeous Cortège de Noces and paintings give a historical overview of the historical overview a of and paintings give the Elder’s 1567 Breugel Pieter city. Don’t miss city.be; adult/concession/Brusselscard €3/2.50/free; €3/2.50/free; city.be; adult/concession/Brusselscard 5pm Tue-Sun) bread-market, the current masterpiece dates dates masterpiece the current bread-market, and nowadays houses from an 1873 rebuild the and nearly 200 years younger than the sur- younger and nearly 200 years rounding guildhouses. Once a medieval This fanciful feast of neogothic arches, verdi- neogothic arches, of This fanciful feast darker is bigger, gris statues and mini-spires MAISON DU ROI DU ROI MAISON ( opposite ) 40 minutes before scheduled de- scheduled before ) 40 minutes opposite ( buy tickets. times to parture tours Brussels’ saint. patron For 45-minute ering it was their primary target. The creamy The creamy their primary target. ering it was gargoyles with Gothic is lavished stone facade tower soars intricate nobility. Its of and reliefs St-Michel, by a gilded statue96m, topped of the only building on the Grand Place to escape the Grand building on the only consid- – ironic bombardment French the 1695 lonelyplanet.com ornate. from Apr-Sep) BRUSSELS iris poolstosliced-opentrams,illustrate the read theboxed text, p98 . the waiter-touts, but before beingenticedinby space heaters keep thingsworkingyear-round and crustacea. It’sgloriouslyphotogenic and pyramids of lemonsandiceddisplaysof fish row alleysjam-packed withpavement tables, Rue andPetite RuedesBouchers, apairof nar- Northwest of the RUE DESBOUCHERS Pis alley’had run dry. ited somesceneswere broken and‘Manneken city’s historyandculture butwhenwelastvis- €6/5/4.50; adult/child/Brusselscard 0973; www.bruxelles-enscene.be; announces Here asoundtrackof jazzanddrippingwater into somebrick-vaulted subterranean tunnels. shop (GaleriedelaReine17) Gourmandeconfectionery Belgique through surreal charms introduction toBrussels’ walk safe fromrainbeneaththeglassroof. Fora lectic arches flanked ec- bymarblepilasters. Several shops liebehind itsneoclassical glassed-in very first shoppingarcade. Many enticing desPrinces) Galerie delaReine, Galerie glorious When openedin1847byKingLéopoldI,the GALERIES ST-HUBERT theboxedchanson superstar (see text, p77 ). raspy-voiced dedicated toBelgium’s seum Tue-Sat, lastentry5pm) Halle auxBlés11;adult/concession€8/5; p70; 1950s fashions.The commandeered foramajor exhibitionon buildingwasalmostentirelythe museum 78 Iô Sacré Ilôt their ( p167 ) you’llfindmanylocalswhoinsiststhat for thesurroundingFashion District. (if dry)legasthoughtoshowhiscontempt p70 ), amongrel dogstandingwithcocked and there’s also century younger littlesquatting‘sister’, the20th- The Pis Manneken ( p77 ) hasamuch OTHER PISSERS % RSES • ihs BRUSSELS ••Sights Meanwhile, ifyougoto cafés Manneken Pis Manneken theoriginal. isactually 02-511 1020; www.jacquesbrel.be; PlacedelaVieille 02-511 1020;www.jacquesbrel.be; h Galeries St-Hubert Galeries Jeanneke Pis spill tables ontothegalleryterrace, spilltables 10am-5pm) Brussels onStage isanarchive centre andmu- Zinneke galeries . Imaginative ideas,from Jacques Brel Foundation Jacques Brel (see below are uniquelycolourful (see opposite ; Map

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month) minuscule medieval passageways minuscule medieval ( p103 ). the Bourse, three of themhiddenawaydown toric Cirio intothepavementset outsidethe roughly theglasswindows through visible bypeeping barded intoruinsin1695.Mostof thesite is former Franciscanconvent thatwasbom- called tor. Directly outside,anarchaeological site is byRodin,thenayoungapprentice sculp- tude of allegoricalfigures. Someof thework reclining nudes, lunginghorses andamulti- liantly festooned withfriezesandsculptures, neoclassical facadeisbril- but itsgrandiose 1873 stockexchange building.Youcan’tenter The Bourse splendid oldmouldsfor p70; (Map the wonderful,age-old biscuitshop insideToone( miss peeping p108 ) andinto theboxedlocked railings(see text, left ). Pis neken Pis’srecently re-plumbed ‘sister’ night cluband night exhibition space. fully renovated and isnowacombined bar- for much of beauti- the1980sbut has sincebeen around thismonument. Themarket layderelict St-Géry meat market,brick-and-wrought-iron the In1881asuperb neo-Renaissance fountain. square featuring acuriouspyramidalmonolith- religious French regime andreplaced byamarket church. Butitwasdemolished undertheanti- Gothic dominatedhad been byamedieval Asian restaurants. Until1799thesquare compact area of popular Surrounding Place St-Géry you’llfindalively, St-Géry merchants. of it’sdedicatedenough, tothepatronsaint encrustedtotally withshops. Appropriately its virtualinvisibility–theex terior isalmost Whatreally makes itself. is Brussels itnotable Sat, 9am-7.30pmSun) Map p70 ; RueauBeurre 1; (traditional spicedbiscuit)figures.

Up adead-endalleyhere you’llfindtheMan- The nearby Five of mostarchetypal andhis- Brussels’ Returning towardstheGrandPlace,don’t (Map (Map p70 ; ImpassedelaFidélité) Bourse hasuncovered thescantyremains of a café café café

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BRUSSELS

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(Map p70 ; Antoine Dansaert 97) p70 (Map Atelier Christophe Coppens Hoet , the first place to look should you place to look should , the first Martin Margiela Martin Margiela (Map p70 ; Rue Antoine Dansaert 64) p70 (Map

02-538 0813; www.christophecoppens.com; Nouveau . Window shoppers might find . Window shoppers The main area of fashion boutiques lies two fashion of The main area % Chartreux 19) the outwardly uninspired KBCthe outwardly uninspired bank building bananas. A of frieze to notice an unexpected block west, 9 ; Marché aux Grains 23) the boxed text opposite ). opposite text the boxed short blocks north on Rue Antoine Dansaert. ) and secondhand specialist Idiz p110 Stijl ( ) p110 Bogam ( than the hallowed boutiques of enter Verbeke the-bell ; Rue Antoine Dansaert 84) p70 (Map it specialises white- in the archaic-looking ruffed Belgian black ‘togas’ still worn by top the road, designer eyewear Across lawyers. specialist eyeshades. filigree extraordinary line in silver gables the Parisian-style Do look up to admire to the upper facade of And look back above. On the next corner is a typically Brussels- a humour, the statue of street style piece of see (ie ‘Mongrel’, dog Zinneke cock-legged 114) need a lamp in the form of a life-sized horse. horse. a life-sized need a lamp in the form of remarkable of all the boutiques, a stage-like all the boutiques, a stage-like of remarkable affair the ‘performer’ is a circular on which That was the time when Brussels Brusseled That building. building. (Map p70 ; Rue

Église Notre-Dame Kartell Le Greenwich (see Le Greenwich Au Lion d’Or café, – the classic tear-jerker – light-heartedly mocks the po-faced lifestyle of the Flemish even though his though his of the Flemish even mocks the po-faced – light-heartedly lifestyle BRUSSELS •• Sights – rain, fog and dismal Belgian landscapes are somehow rendered as poetic as poetic somehow rendered landscapes are – rain, fog and dismal Belgian . – don’t be fooled by the jolly banjo sound…waiting for a Brussels tram has never banjo sound…waiting for a Brussels tram has never – don’t be fooled by the jolly furniture shop. Veer west here west here Veer shop. furniture – upbeat nostalgic favourite in which he somehow gets away with turning the capital gets away with turning the capital in which he somehow favourite – upbeat nostalgic (Map p70 ; www.espacebizarre.com; Rue des ; www.espacebizarre.com; p70 (Map Bruxelles as ‘ translated (approximately into a verb family was originally of Flemish descent family was originally Les Flamands Les Ne me Quitte Pas Madeleine sounded so poignant Le Plat Pays Plat Le idylls Top five Brel songs: Brel Top five

    

JACQUES BREL BREL JACQUES in 1952 20th-century singer started his career greatest in 1929, Belgium’s Born in Schaerbeek mixed he where to Paris, following year he headed The Noire. La Rose cabaret Brussels in the in 1954 and was released Hisfirst record artists fellow and including Édith Piaf. with songwriters performed songs were transcendent an idol. Hishe rapidly became with astound- passionate, lost a kilo and usually during each described it ‘he sang like one fan a boxer As ing intensity. the performance’. spirituality, nostalgia, wide-ranging love, of his songs include themes The the Despite contradictions. of Belgium’s and beautiful evocations the bourgeoisie hypocrisy of In 1960s. film star in the late and became a ‘French’ of as French, thought he was often latter, 1973 he quit performing in the of his life sail around the world. He spent the last two years to Paul painter now buried near French he’s Polynesia, where Marquesas Islands of French remote cancer in 1978. Gauguin, having died of lung Black steel gates beside the bistro Le beside Black steel gates Lion p104 ). Nearby is the surreal lighting specialist ). Nearby is the surreal p104 Espace Bizzare ant art nouveau ironwork over the entrance to ironwork over ant art nouveau Brussels’ classic chess- Antoine Dansaert 2) translucent plastic chairs displayed on the displayed on translucent plastic chairs disco flooring at white-lit in 1885 as a grand brasserie. A block north, ponder who would actually want to sit on the wrought-iron frontage of the Beursschouwburgwrought-iron of frontage originally built ), a cultural centre p106 (see Géry and Ste-Catherine. Heading northwest Heading Géry and Ste-Catherine. from the Bourse,pass the magnificent you’ll You don’t have to be a fashion hound to enjoy hound to enjoy fashion to be a You don’t have and idiosyncrasies the quirky facades, shops that neatly divides St- area this compact of of the bulb-spired church, church, the bulb-spired of Riches Claires des DistrictFashion 1811 brick, neogothic views interesting The courtyard also offers along with a reconstructed historical moor- along with a reconstructed by the vaulted is bridged ing point. The stream covered Senne River has been uncovered Sennehas been uncovered River covered lonelyplanet.com St-Géry lead into a private (but often open) (but often St-Géry lead into a private the mostly of one branch courtyard in which on Rue des Chartreux to admire the flamboy- to admire on Rue des Chartreux BRUSSELS centre isamonument to467people whodied had, tillrecently, forgotten. eerily been Atits has started‘reclaiming’ parts of thissquare that are finallycomplete. Already oneterraced pretty grandoncetheglacially slowrenovations classical canopy heldaloft byflyingcherubs. Theneo- a remarkable itsgiantwooden 1758altarpiece, 6.30pm) duFinistère Église Notre-Dame chitecture, meditate awhileinthe18th-century not itsloveliest. Toescapethelacklustre ’70sar- busiestshopping streetBrussels’ butcertainly Pedestrianised Area Rue Neuve least whenthepoolhas any water. toleapoutofand lizardsset thewater…at Anspach Fountain carrier pigeons themonolithic of WWI.Beside Soldat memorial of original Brussels’ city wall. ivy draped dwarfed bythebackof aNovotel Hotel isthe most beautifulchurch butis rarely open. student of Rubens.It’soften cited asBelgium’s masterpiece designedbyLucFayd’Herbe, a (Map p70 ; PlaceduBéguinage) turf. The1657 again ‘miraculously’floatingonachunk of (1744)butwasfound hurled intotheSenne of theVirgin andChildthatProtestants once on itsnorthwestflank).Insideisablackstatue folks tourinate onitswalls(there’s a‘pissoir’ religious buildingsthatpositively encourages Ste-Catherine; blackened churches. and eateries sprinkledalongRue de Flandre. There’s alsoacuriousmixture of cheaper bars restaurants aroundPlSte-Catherine. seafood fromthenumerouswell-regardedis tochoose sists andthemainreason you’re likely tovisit since 1870,thearea’s reputation forfish per- theriver coveredAlthough hasbeen over which was forcenturiesamajor fish market. mooring intheheartof Ste-Catherine, once upthenow-invisibleRiversailed Senne, It’s hardtoimaginetoday,butfishing boats Ste-Catherine ence’ neatrowsof hats and scarves. white-curtained changing space,the‘audi- 80 Boxed inonthree sidesandincongruously The area ifsmog- sportstwonotable Other minorcuriositiesincludethe RSES • ihs BRUSSELS ••Sights , whose great, whose baroqueinterior features Place desMartyrs h Tour Noire rarely open) Église St-Jean-Baptiste auBéguinage Église St-Jean-Baptiste commemoratingthebrave Rue Neuve Rue Neuve , noticethebronzecrocodiles

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Palais Royal Palais 10.30am-4pm Tue-Sun late Jul-early10.30am-4pm Tue-Sun Sep) very effectively sees a life-sized figure figure sees a life-sized effectively very – wonder by covering the ceiling with the wing- the ceiling with the wonder by covering jewel beetles. 1.4 million Thai cases of BELVUE end, western Attached to the Royal Palace’s Musée BELvue 7; adult/senior/youth/child/Brusselscard .be; Place des Palais €5/4/3/free/free; history through documents, images a series of masses in and to take are and videos. There Europe’s changing the computerised map of borderlines (morphing year by year 1000AD to 1830) is especially engrossing. However, with the fairly familiar already you’re unless you might be left with as many events covered as answers. questions century century free; admission Place des Palais; 2020; www.monarchy.be; h a like pile that looks something expansive Buckingham cousin to Palace. less-inspired to the BelgianAlthough residence officially here king hasn’t actually lived a monarchs, ) p90 III decamped to Laekensince Léopold ( rooms might a feel few first 1935. The after room is impres- little soulless but the throne and gilt. with chandeliers overloaded sively climax you end up And for a breathtaking Jan artist Here in the former ‘Congo Room’. iridescent an extraordinary has created Fabre

depicts a young couple arm-in-arm. The depicts a young couple arm-in-arm. The

– Hergé character uses the terrace end brilliantly end brilliantly terrace uses the character – Hergé park , the bricklaying himself into place (Map p70 ; Rue de Flandre) ; Rue de p70 (Map – a human stack reaching for the birds – a human stack reaching (Map pp72-3 ; Rue Haute) ; Rue pp72-3 (Map

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Néron Chat Le Peeping Policeman Peeping Displaced Pis Manneken teetering towards a trompe l’œil window teetering Broussaille Tibet & Duchateau & Duchateau Tibet Tintin for a little spying original 1991 version showed a couple of very ambiguous sex that the neighbouring gay that the neighbouring gay ambiguous sex showed a couple of very 1991 version original the seemed to give a 1999 repaint However, the quarter. establishments used to promote Creeping hairstyle, earrings and (slightly) bigger breasts. feminine a more figure black-haired homophobia or honest mistake? Nobody knows.

10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

       Over 40 comic-strip murals currently enliven alleys and thoroughfares throughout the old city throughout the old city alleys and thoroughfares enliven murals currently Over 40 comic-strip mapped on www.brusselscomics.com/en/ Most are year. year after added with more centre, ). p76 ( International is available from Brussels brochure detailed free and a more route_bd.cfm neigh- less-visited excuse to explore of these cheery murals makes a great Moseying past a few Some favourites: bourhoods. COMIC-STRIP MURALS COMIC-STRIP MURALS Place Royale Area AreaPlace Royale dotted with classical statues.classical with dotted When the king takes his summer holidays holidays his summer When the king takes workplace, the 19th- visit his official you can ROYAL PALACE PALACE ROYAL of the Royal Palace is a spacious formal the Royal Palace of fascinating museums has a curious secret and ). North p82 lurking beneath (see Coudenberg, crusader briefly became the knight very who in 1099 Jerusalem of European ‘king’ first with flanked ). It’s p239 text, (see the boxed area. The neoclassical square features a bold features square neoclassical The area. equestrian forms the heart of Brussels’ regal Upper Town Brussels’ regal forms the heart of A short stroll up the Mont des Arts steps des Arts steps A short stroll up the Mont Place Royale area, from the Grand Place have to pay an entrance fee to enjoy the cen- to enjoy the to pay an entrance fee have (€2.20) at the a coffee tral hallway or to drink attached the boxed text, p89 ) classic with wrought-iron) classic p89 text, the boxed You don’t and a glass roof. superstructure ‘Ninth Art’, do peep inside the impressive do peep‘Ninth Art’, impressive inside the Horta building, a Victor (see1906 art nouveau h comic-strip culture the country’s vibrant of the by not excited if you’re ). Even p43 (see (Map pp68-9 ; €7.50/5/free; 20; adult/concession/Brusselscard des Sables lonelyplanet.com BRUSSELS superb city panorama. guide. Anddon’tmiss therooftop the instrument’ssound playedonyouraudio- near eachStand exhibittoautomaticallyhear of historic,modern andworldinstruments. entry 4pm) free; Montagne delaCour2;adult/concession/Brusselscard €5/3.50/ pp68-9; Map Museum Instrument Brussels’ arched windows.Itcontains ironand black facadeallaswirlinwrought art nouveau showpiecewithasuperlative This 1899formerdepartmentstore isan OLD ENGLANDBUILDING emerge neartheOld England Building. terranean site isentered fromBELvue. You’ll €5/4/3/free/free, combinedwithBELvue €8/5/4/free/free) The thanks toconsiderable archaeological work. street layoutaremedieval nowdiscernable lower storeys remains. Wholestretches of basic structure of thepalace’slong-hidden out PlaceRoyalebutbeneathstreet the level were tocreate levelled eventually newlylaid 1731fire.stroyed inacatastrophic Itsruins thevastcomplexwasde- sions. However, courtiers andnobles inturnbuiltfineman- V (CharlesQuint; p27 ). Aroundthepalace, residence of HolyRomanEmperorCharles asthe16th-century ful palaces,mostnotably into oneof Europe’smostelegantandpower- centuriesthiswastransformed several Over site of original12th-centurycastle. Brussels’ Coudenberg Hill(nowPlaceRoyale)wasthe COUDENBERG 82 extensive restoration. nouveau interiors.lous art The famousPalais Stoclet( p92 ), nowUnesco-listed, isundergoing atDeUltiemeHallucinatie while drinking Maison Cauchie ( p87 ). InSchaerbeek MaisonAutrique ( p88 ) ( p89 ). NeartheCinquantenaire monument,theloveliest nouveau townhousesisthe ofallart nouveauwhere househostsamuseumdedicated aclassicart tomaestroarchitect Victor Horta widely butthere are decentconcentrationsoffinefacadesinSt-Gilles ( p88 ) andIxelles ( p88 ), (Map (Map pp72-3 ; Ave Louise224) ( below) Brussels excelsin nouveau architecture.art Inthecitycentre don’tmisstheOldEnglandBuilding BRUSSELS’ ARTNOUVEAU MASTERPIECES from www.brusselsartnouveau.be. Nouveau Art Museumsellthemap-guide within. BrusselsInternational touristofficeandHorta h Coudenberg Coudenberg RSES • ihs BRUSSELS ••Sights ARAU tours( p92 ) cangetyouintosomenormallyclosedgemsincludingthe 9.30am-4.45pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4.45pmSat&Sun,last 9.30am-4.45pm Tue-Fri, , oneof theworld’sbiggest collections

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Hôtel Van Eetvelde ( p87 ), whosefacadesbarely hintatthewonders Falstaff ( p103 ) café Musical Musical fora sub-

( p88 ) offers tantalisingglimpsesofsomemarvel- . Many othertopexamplesare scattered fairly the highlights of thesuperbpre-18th-centurythe highlights asbestos removal, only youcancurrently see indefinitely for With some30roomsclosed Permanent Collection all of itcurrently on display. stupendous collection.Sadly,bynomeansis h €13/9/3/free, temporaryexhibitions€9/6.50/2.50/9; tion ticket €4,combina- €8/5/2/free, audio-guide Museum free, Magritte adult/senior/student/Brusselscard€8/5/2/ permanent collection RuedelaRégence3; 508 3211;www.fine-arts-museum.be; foremost Brussels’ and alate-1940s period of Kandinsky-like aDali-esquephase cubism in1920through fromcolourful Braque-style his styledevelop paintingsanddrawings.Watch ist pioneer’s has theworld’slargest collectionof thesurreal- .musee-magritte-museum.be) beautifully presented ticketA separate isrequired forthegallery’s Magritte Museum Dali odd Seurat, and Miro. artistsplusthe 20th-century piecesbyBelgian foritswealthofwork butisnotable fineearly with19th-century starts ‘modern’ artsection fare. 18th-century andplentymoreJordaens canvases 17th-and art withnumerousgiganticRubensand bellied pomposityof Counter-Reformation full of Breugel. You’re thensweptintothepot- (Bosch, Dirk Boutsetc)andincludesaroom and macabre 16th-centurymasterpieces collection. It’sparticularlystrongonsurreal MUSÉES ROYAUX DESBEAUX-ARTS Way downinthebowelsof thegallery, the 9.30am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat&Sun) 9.30am-5pm Tue-Fri,

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Recyclart in the sorry ex-mining town town in the sorry ex-mining childhood home 02-428 2626; www.magrittemuseum. , exhibiting his passport, photos, % sporadic) h 02-508 6410; Place Poelaert; admission free; Nearby, the barely used Bruxelles-Chapelle used Bruxelles-Chapelle barely Nearby, the Palais de Justice Palais de Justice PLACE DU PETIT SABLON DU PETIT SABLON PLACE from Place du Grand 200m uphill About (Map little garden Sablon, this charming statuettes rep- by 48 bronze ) is ringed pp72–3 the medievalresenting Standing guilds. hud- from actors two dled on a fountain like plinth Counts Egmont drama are a Shakespearean who were leaders and Hoorn, popular city in 1568 for defy- beheaded on the Grand Place grand Egmont’s of The site rule. ing Spanish lies behind. former residence in Rome, this colossal than St Peter’s Larger complex of 2.6 hectare % ously incorporates the decapitated tower of tower of decapitated the incorporates ously a section as the central original the 1134 of Behind edifice. Gothic bigger palm-tree the carved a con- on the wall above pulpit, look to ‘Petro to find a small memorial fessional the Elder (see Breugel ie Pieter Brevgello’, in the ), who once lived p84 text, the boxed nearby Marolles. train stationcommuter is topped by a skate and hosts area 5734; www.recyclart.be; Rue des Ursulines 25) (Map pp66-7 ; regeneration project hosting anything from project regeneration DJ parties. to art to cutting-edge debates

s, 10am-6pm Wed-Sun) café h (Map pp72-3 ; now curi- Musée Magritte Musée are typically are

(Map ; pp72-3 Rue de church chocolatiers , started life as the 1304 as the 1304 , started life BRUSSELS •• Sights walls still preserve some of his scribbles. walls still preserve 9am-7pm)

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Die-hard Magritte fans can also visit Magritte’s bourgeois 1911 bourgeois Die-hard Magritte’s fans can also visit Magritte But many of his works go much deeper, blending images of the ordinary with those of the images of the ordinary with those of the But many of his works go much deeper, blending Église Notre-Dame du Sablon 9am-7pm Jun-Sep, 9am-6pm Oct-May) furniture and, predictably enough, a pipe. Here Magritte painted most of his famous works – – most of his famous works painted Magritte Here enough, a pipe. and, predictably furniture setting up his easel in the kitchen and painting while wearing a three-piece business suit. The a view of a postage-stampkitchen garden and a brick wall that was Magritte’s window offered ‘looking glass into another world’. 926; [email protected]; Rue des Gravelles 95, Châtelet; occasional art Or admire for very exhibits. now a venue ) outside Charleroi, p209 of Châtlet (Map was born. Magritte ), where p213 ( (from outside) the house in Lessines subconscious. One fascinating element in Magritte’s personality was his apparent conventionality. conventionality. personality was his apparent One fascinating element in Magritte’s subconscious. artists by the bohemian Unlike many fellow he was sociable, happily married and unimpressed ordinary suburban into the very moved set. From 1930 the Magrittes surrealist of the Paris lifestyles house that’s now Brussels’ ‘other’ MR MAGRITTE MR MAGRITTE most (1898–1967) was Belgium’s René Magritte ), opposite by a fine new museum ( Celebrated artist. surrealist He’s best known for a simple painting consisting of a pipe and the words prominent newspapers, advertisers and endlessly by Belgian joke is recycled The ‘this is not a pipe’ (in French). ), p105 Doré ( drinking favourite Papier holes, La Fleur en on the door of one of Magritte’s even whose be; Rue Esseghem 135; adult/concession €6/5; Sablon Sablon h ÉGLISE NOTRE-DAME DE LA CHAPELLE CHAPELLE DE LA ÉGLISE NOTRE-DAME Brussels’ oldest surviving Place de la Chapelle; admission/guide-pamphlet free/€3; apparently by a vision-motivated husband- by a vision-motivated apparently a rowing boat! It has long in team and-wife since gone but a boat behind the pulpit com- the curious affairmemorates that went on to ). p17 Ommegang ( Brussels’ original inspire statue was procured in 1348 by way of an an 1348 by way of in statue was procured in Antwerp – church audacious theft from a healing powers of its Madonna statue. The its Madonna of healing powers archers’ guild chapel. However, a century later However, a century later guild chapel. archers’ to cope with enlarged it had to be massively by the supposed pilgrims attracted of droves Sablon’s large, flamboyantly Gothic church, flamboyantly Gothic church, Sablon’s large, the more intriguing antique shops and the square the square and intriguing antique shops more The itself market. hosts a Sunday antique frequented by the see-and-be-seen by the Brusselsfrequented lanes sport plenty upper crust. Surrounding The Sablon is a cobbled square whose square cobbled Sablon is a The and antique shops sional 52-minute documentary give interesting interesting documentary give sional 52-minute con- insights the artist’s unconventionally into ). below text, (see life the boxed ventional brushwork to his trademark bowler hats of of bowler hats trademark to his brushwork profes- a very of screenings Regular the 1960s. lonelyplanet.com la Régence; BRUSSELS offers widepanoramasover theBrussels people speaking intheearthy Bruxellois dialect down-market morning fleamarket (see p109 ). Ata few of the the character around canstillbefound,notably Nonetheless, pockets of originalBruxellois the mainstreets, RueHaute andRueBlaes. funky interior-design upalong shops setting image witharashof intimate restaurants and ter, the Marolles haspartlyshed itsproletarian onceresolutelyBrussels’ working-class quar- Marolles leads downinto the Marolles. evator asstars ofBasilica theskylineshow.Aglass rooftops, withtheAtomiumandKoekelberg have managed toabscondfrom its precincts. criminals high-profile cases inseveral Indeed grand,itisnoteasytosecure.undoubtably in the15th century ( p76 ). when theCityHall’s towerwasbuiltoff-centre claim thattheterm dates backmuch earlierto old Bruxellois dialect( right some ). However, architekt for thebuilding.Theterm ous Marolles residents tomake evicted way struck downbythewitchcraft of thenumer- tion, legends promptlysuggested he’dbeen anddiedduringitsconstruc- went insane and order. Whenitsarchitect Poelaert Joseph Marolles asanintimidatingsymbolof law sited onthe hilldominatingtheworking-class the temples of theEgyptian pharaohs, itwas constructed (1866–83).Designedtoevoke Mon-Fri) 84 Behind thebuildingapavementBehind While thelabyrinthinePalais deJusticeis sobriquet, ‘Velvet’. life inAntwerppaintingsensitiveartistic landscapesandflowerarrangements,leadingtohis scenes ofdamnation.Contrastingly,secondson Jan Breughel (1568–1625)spentmostofhis largely copiedhisfather’sstyle,earningthenickname‘HellBreughel’ forhispreoccupation with a private guidedtourthroughBrusselsInternational ( p76 ). Bookwayahead. nicknamed religious events andmyths. Manyofhisworkswere painted brickhousenow inthestep-gabled best remembered forhisquirkyscenesofcontemporary peasant life woven aroundportentous Bosch.Buthe’s tothoseofHieronymus landscapestosatiricalallegories likened from powerful centuries. Pieter Breugel theElder(c1525–69)wasundeniablyfamily’smaster. workranged His Spell itBreugel orBreughel, inthelate thisfamilydominated 16thandearly17th Flemish art THE BREUGELFAMILY Place du Jeu-de-Balle Place duJeu-de-Balle RSES • ihs BRUSSELS ••Sights Breugel’s firstson, Pieter Breughel theYounger(1564–1638)mighthave addedanhbuthe

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café Bruxelles-Luxembourg Museum of Natural Sciences Museum Solvay Library , displaying Wiertz’s frenzied , displaying Wiertz’s frenzied 02-627 4238; www.naturalsciences.be; Rue 02-627 4238; www.naturalsciences.be; % 9.30am-4.45pm Tue-Fri, Sat & Sun) 10am-6pm are closed to the public and the are h From central Brussels, easiest by access is EU PROS & CONS & CONS EU PROS Union (www.europa.eu.int) European The European is run from the bureaucracy weeks in Brussels while a few Commission 27 nations from the MPs each year, Euro US$1.6 billion in Brussels’ gather to debate for Providing building. Parliament European lobby- of Eurocrats, legions the resultant has created ists, translators and journalists for the effect knock-on economic a great city’s service But many lament industries. the wholesale destruction of the formerly characterful Quartier to make Léopold And buildings. space for brash new EU measures the EU announces whenever agricultural subsidies, it’s aimed at reducing that get jammed up with Brussels’ streets farmers. the tractors of protesting Musée des Sciences Naturelles des Sciences Naturelles Musée This inspirational (Map p86 ; its type anywhere. may well be the best of PARC LÉOPOLD LÉOPOLD PARC Léopold was Brussels Zoo Steep-sloping Parc till 1880 and now forms an unexpectedly pleasant away just behind the oasis hidden century-old buildings Fine EU Parliament. the attractive like School Antoine Wiertz 19th-century hell scenes is under long-term But the Musée des Sciences reconstruction. justifies the trip. (below) alone Naturelles to you can retire Afterwards at chip-challenge the or take Luxembourg Antoine (Pl Jourdan) – do you think Maison Brussels’ best? really they’re suburban train to four times an hour on weekdays).minutes, It’s Belgium’s train station, oldest though only the of facade remains stone section of a token 19th-century original – a startling contrast to mural) the new modernist station (with Hergé EU offices businesslike and to the ghetto of that back it. These line a central concourse as a Le and charmless that’s as impersonal Corbusier sketch. Vautier 29; adult/concession/child/Brusselscard €7/6/4.50/ Vautier free;

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h EU Area EU PARLIAMENT (Map p86 ; ( ment’s not meeting. Start at the huge debating chamber (the ‘hemicycle’), (the ‘hemicycle’), debating chamber huge multilingual audio-guided free or take or at least the cheese’s blue-oval box. Visitors Visitors box. or at least the cheese’s blue-oval can sit in on parliamentary sessions in the ‘Caprice des Dieux’ (Whim of the Gods), not ‘Caprice des Dieux’ (Whim of but becausebecause its it’s divinely inspired, cheese – a so-named French facade resembles The European Parliament looks like a gigan- looks like European Parliament The for triffids.tic greenhouse It’s nicknamed fine early 20th-century houses notably around Sq Marie-Louise. it’s not all horror. The EU Area (Map p86 ) p86 (Map EU Area The it’s not all horror. gardens, fountains and some also has lovely through a once attractive neighbourhood neighbourhood through a once attractive station. But behind Bruxelles-Luxembourg form dark concrete canyons. To the east, EU canyons. form dark concrete office buildings cut a brutally modern gash Along the thundering thoroughfares Rue Rue Along the thundering thoroughfares de la Loi and Rue Belliard, tragically bland so close they together packed office blocks are Wednesday evenings. 11am-6pm Sun) on art exhibitions. Entry is free temporary 340 0050; www.wiels.org; Ave Van Volxemlaan 354; adult/ Volxemlaan Van Ave 340 0050; www.wiels.org; concession/Brusselscard €6/4/free; brewery building towards Bruxelles-Midi Bruxelles-Midi building towards brewery (tram 82), you’ll find this run-down, inner-city this run-down, inner-city It’s well off the by a vast car factory. nated former a converted usual tourist track, but in Forest (Vorst) Forest (Vorst) misleading name for is a completely Forest of surrounding gardens, the tower’s fairy-tale surrounding gardens, the tower’s of with its location on a trafficappearance jars ring road. island within the inner-city the opportunity to climb for views to the 6th- the opportunity to climb landscaping recent battlements. Despite storey you round its decent little city-history mu- its decent little city-history you round Then there’s armour. seum of and exhibition turrets thereafter. Today an audio-guide leads Today an audio-guide thereafter. turrets French preserved use for French as a military prison. This lonelyplanet.com Brusselscard €5/4/free/free; Brusselscard €5/4/free/free; 5pm Sat & Sun, last entry 4.15pm) 5pm Sat & Sun, last a museum embel- in 1847 and romantically lished with statuary, neogothic windows and 6 6 6 6 BRUSSELS 86

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a # sse BRUSSELS 87 Antiquities Antiquities 10am-1pm & 2- displays one h 02-733 8684; www.cauchie. (www.brusselstofpeople % 02-741 7211; www.kmkg-mrah.be; % 9.30am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & 9.30am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & , whose stunning 1905 facade is (Map p86 ;

h Tof People (Map p86 ; , aims to overcome the inertia by putting , aims to overcome . The astonishingly rich, global collection collection global . The astonishingly rich, 10am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Mar) .eu) INSIDE INFORMATION INFORMATION INSIDE viewed by outsid- is often Brussels’ EU world Well, perhaps bureaucracy. ers as a faceless people of real But it is also a community it is. a remarkable countries, oppor- from 27 real and understanding culture tunity to share interesting missed. The often that is all too scheme, you in touch with a whole range of Brussels- you in touch with a whole the union. based folks from all over lavishly adorned with stylised female figures. figures. adorned with stylised female lavishly Klimt painting transformed into a It looks like When it’s open, wait in a gallery architecture. and read paintings Cauchie’s expressionist of about the building’s miraculous 1980s salva- tion until the next tour (around 30 minutes) bicycles. It’s worth having a clear idea what a clear idea what bicycles. It’s worth having you want to see coming or the sheer before Visually at- overwhelming. scope can prove spaces include the medievaltractive stone carvings set and around a neogothic cloister the soaring Corinthian columns (convinc- props) that bring atmosphere ing fibreglass to an original 420 AD mosaic from Roman so and Dutch LabellingSyria. is in French (€3 extra) audio-guide the English-language considering. worth is HOUSES ART NOUVEAU is the gem art nouveau Brussels’ greatest Maison Cauchie be; Rue des Francs 5; adult/child €5/free; 5.30pm 1st Sat & Sun of each month, plus 6pm-8.30pm most evenings May-Aug) .be; adult/concession/Brusselscard €6/4.70/free, camera €2.50; €6/4.70/free, .be; adult/concession/Brusselscard h and vintage ensembles Europe’s biggest of of Among all the four-wheelers, 20th-century cars. king the present Davidson notice the Harley to Belgium’sgave de- police force when he over. were days cided his biker ET D’ART D’HISTOIRE MUSÉES ROYAUX trove a treasure there’s realise Belgians Few lurking within this cavernous Museum 10; adult/concession/child/Brusselscard du Cinquantenaire Parc €5/4/free/free; Sun) sarcophagi to from Ancient Egyptian ranges to icons to wooden masks, Meso-American . 9- h (Map p86 ; Rue de la ; Rue de la p86 (Map

Arc de Triomphe . It boasts a truly stag- 02-736 4165; www.autoworld 02-737 7811; www.klm-mra.be; Parc Parc 02-737 7811; www.klm-mra.be; % (Map p86 ) is a triumphal ) p86 (Map BRUSSELS •• Sights %

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Berlaymont building (Map p86 ; . Built in 1967, it’s striking but by no . Built in 1967, it’s striking Cinquantenaire Cinquantenaire & Around Cinquantenaire & Around Autoworld 11.45am & 1-4.30pm Tue-Sun) AUTOWORLD parking), (free Across the big, cobbled square Arcade is possible if you visit this free Arcade is possible if you visit this free museum 3; admission/audio-guidedu Cinquantenaire free/€3; Getting onto the top of the Cinquantenaire the Cinquantenaire the top of onto Getting MUSÉE ROYAL DE L’ARMÉE ET D’HISTOIRE DE L’ARMÉE ET D’HISTOIRE MUSÉE ROYAL MILITAIRE several grand-scale museums. Access is easiest or Mérode. 1A to Schuman by Metro mer, the arcade forms the curious backdrop to while around it are cinema screen, a drive-in anniversary (‘cinquantenaire’) in 1880 but in 1880 but (‘cinquantenaire’) anniversary only a took so long to build that by that date was standing. The version plaster temporary till 1905. In sum- full beast wasn’t completed The handy suburban train to Brussels-Schuman handy suburban train to Brussels-Schuman (12 minutes). Central take Metro 1A to Schuman or a or a to Schuman 1A Central Metro take panels dotted around the building give insight give around the building panels dotted and this neighbourhood into the history of From Bruxelles- Brussels’ role. international between 1991 and 2004 that removed asbes- between 1991 and 2004 that removed Information tos-tainted building materials. winged winged Loi 200) rebuild a billion-euro means beautiful, despite The European Commission, the EU’s sprawl- The European Commission, on the vast, four- is centred ing bureaucracy, THE EU COMMISSION THE EU COMMISSION debate on recent palaeontology. Was T-Rex Was T-Rex palaeontology. on recent debate You decide! Other delights a giant chicken? include a cutaway hall a whale living beehive, Antarctic ‘tunnel’. and a walk-through boxes allow you to play dino hunter and multi- to play dino hunter allow you boxes nuanced a wonderfully give lingual videos in 1878. A computer simulation shows the the simulation shows computer in 1878. A them, sand- covered mightmudslide that have of stuffed animals. The undoubted highlight stuffed animals. The undoubted is of iguanodons – 10m-high of a unique ‘family’ coal mine back found in a Hainaut dinosaurs Thought-provoking and highly interactive, the highly and interactive, Thought-provoking selection than the usual museum has far more lonelyplanet.com arch reminiscent of Paris’ Paris’ of reminiscent arch It was designed to celebrate Belgium’sIt was designed to celebrate 50th gering collection of all things military dating collection of gering Belgian independence. back to BRUSSELS 19th-century church inneo-Byzantine style, sweep Brussels toarchitectural Brussels sweep glory.Ithosts the artnouveau wave thatwasjust aboutto travagance butmany designelementshintat 5.30pm Wed-Sun) de Haecht266;adult/senior/concession €6/4.30/3; Autrique restoredbeen asan arts venue. industrial architecturewrought-iron that’s 22) Ste-Marie Schaerbeek of glimpse walk-through the highlights. less interesting butbuying adrinkearnsyou (behind) that’spubliclyaccessibleismuch covers area glass.Thebrasserie andstained vellous, withoriginallamps,brassradiator- interiors istrulymar- in 1904.Thefrontsalon refitteda classictownhouse withartnouveau Royale 316;beerfrom€2.20; Hallucinatie central cupola. Nearby replete withbuttresses anda star-studded Ste-Marie unavoidably drawn tothevery distinctive modesty. scarfed ladies pass byobliviously, dressed infully in their‘pinkwindows’whilelocalMuslim lasciviouslypastprostitutes Motorists cruise (Bruxelles-Nord) isaweirdhumanjumble. areaThe ratherseedy aroundthe Schaerbeek highest-paid civil servant. thecountry’s Congo and,notcoincidentally, Eetvelde, wasatthattimeMinister forthe inspired Van plant motifs.Itsowner,Baron withAfrican- a centralglassdomeinfused studded withexotictimbers andsporting gripping, itsinterior masterpiece isaHorta outside of most thisbuildingisnotBrussels’ Eetvelde is getting closed intotheotherwise knot of extravagantly twisted ironwork. It’scrownedbyadevil-may-care top- portal. window, filigree balconiesandacircularupper remarkable foritsnaturalisticcopper-framed 11; ing, thenarrow fito-adorned rooms upstairs. is ready totake youinto thefabuloussgraf- 88 Horta fansmayenjoyhis 1893 Horta The 1901formerfoodmarket Looking eastalongRueRoyaleyourgazeis A great of anARAU highlight tour( p92 ) Currently hiddenbyrenovation scaffold- h RSES • ihs BRUSSELS ••Sights closed)

( (Map (Map p86 ; Ave Palmerston 2-4).

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isagreat exampleof glassand ( Mp p6- wwuteealcnteb; Rue www.ultiemehallucinatie.be; pp68-9; (Map % hasaclassic1903facadethat’s 02-215 6600; www.autrique.be; Chaussée 02-215 6600;www.autrique.be; . Itshows littleluxuryorex- 02-218 2107;www.halles.be; RueRoyale Maison St-Cyr Maison h 10.30am-2am Mon-Sat) café (Map p86 ; Sq Ambiorix Ambiorix Sq p86; (Map

, an octagonal , anoctagonal

Whilethe De Ultieme Gare duNord Gare Halles de Hôtel Van Hôtel h Maison Maison noon- Église is jumbled rooms fullof cyborg bodyparts,

Examples: area. waytodiscovera pleasant thisvery eclectic ( Museum for theHorta opposite ) andmakes ofa selection finefacadeswhets one’sappetite virtually noneare openforvisits,walkingpast manyareAlthough grimyandneglected and great Khnopff. Fernand symbolistartist, ceiling, painted byBelgian you can’tbesure the wedding hall of seeing visitsareotherwise onlybyarrangement, so festivalbelgium.com; tions andamajor dotted Occasionalexhibi- withgiltstatuary. III stylepalacesportingasoaringbrickbelfry vanMeenen) net.be; PlMaurice de Saint-Gilles;Map pp72-3 ; wonders is One of overlooked Brussels’ architectural (Sint-Gillis) St-Gilles .be/docs/promenade /plan.en.pdf). guide totheneighbourhood (www.autrique offers aninteresting downloadablewalking regularly changing exhibitionsandthewebsite admission €7; 3 ; the townhouse, ing sights. Trams 91or92gettothe follow- youclose (Elsene) Ixelles         %

giant rooster fashionedout of spoons charcuterie store, insidewhich ‘lives’ a Ave Paul Dejaer16 art nouveau house Ave Paul Dejaer9 tower apartment Ave Brugmann30 door the circular window-topsandlittleowlsover Ave Brugmann55 Hannon Hôtel houses Ave Ducpétiaux18-24 Prison St-Gilles Rue deSavoie66 table Crusader-eratable fortress white-stone facadethatimitates averi- 6pm) The surroundingarea hasacoupleof windows Trams 92or93passnearallof the above. In what seems anoutwardlytypical In whatseems Ixelles 0475-412 918; www.maisonbizarre.be; Rue Américaine 7; 0475-412 918;www.maisonbizarre.be; RueAméricaine café Superb artnouveau stained- glass s andplentyof century-oldhouses. Saint-Gilles townhall Saint-Gilles h 2-5pm Sat&Sun) Musée d’Art Fantastique d’Art Musée h (Ave 1; delaJonction (Ave Ducpétiaux) Artnouveau house Colourfully refurbished Sadly abandonedformer early Oct) early Oct) Archetypal artnouveau Comics Festival Round-ended artdeco % Finearchetypal town- , asplendidNapoleon 02-536 0211;www.stgilles.iris are heldhere but hitsyouwith lonelyplanet.com (Maison Communale (Maison

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(www.comics h (Map (Map pp72- 11am- BRUSSELS , 89 Jardin Jardin 02-648 4449; Rue du Lac 6 Rue du % 10am-noon & 1-5pm 02-503 0074; Chaussée h comes to life with a comes to life % (

(Map pp66-7 ; is home to Brussels’ is home to African museum Africamäli Galerie d’Ixelles . Matonge occupies an Ixelles townhouse that was occupies an Ixelles and the slightly and the grubby 1904 and his first civic commission, the Access is by trams 81 or 82 from Bruxelles- trams 81 or 82 from Access is by Rue de l’Abbaye 59; admission free; Rue de l’Abbaye 59; admission free; Tue-Fri) Brussels-born the last home and studio of (1831–1905). He’s artist Constantin Meunier and sculptures best known for his emotive paintings, including larger-than- social realist from bronzes depicting muscular miners life from Antwerp and dockworkers Hainaut, or 94. 93 tram fields. Take men reaping dozen African hair-stylist shops, down-market down-market shops, dozen African hair-stylist and an outlet for Congolesebars CD/DVDs. offer agencies travel On Chaussée de Wavre flights Snack to Bujumbura and Kigali. cheap servebars African tasty portions of cheap, or Moambe Mafe as Yassa, delicacies such shops at ). Grocery p101 text, (see the boxed the place to 17, 27, 36 and 130 are numbers look for plantains, yams, leaf-wrapped cassava But don’t come or even dried caterpillars. expecting endless quaint boutiques selling The only such folkloric African village-art. is place here 83) Wavre de MEUNIER MUSÉE CONSTANTIN This intimate 38-39 super stained windows, with circular and glass balcony. 2nd-floor a lovely Midi. MATONGE Kinshasa, in name from a square its Taking Congo, also community though the compact area Like wider ethnic mix. encompasses a much has its fair Kinshasa, the architecture parts of but even old 1960s concrete tired of share the dreary

. It . It schoolhouse. Ixelles Ponds Musée Horta Musée Horta

(Map pp72-3 ; www Ave Général de GaulleAve 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun) Flagey (Map pp72-3 ; Rue Paul-Émile Janson 6) Janson ; Rue Paul-Émile pp72-3 (Map h

and many grand man- originally conceived as as originally conceived

, Creamy tones, harmoni- Creamy 1893 house designed by 1893 houseby designed

BRUSSELS •• Sights Beautiful, gilded sgraffito 02-543 0490; www.hortamuseum.be; Rue (Map pp72-3 ; Rue St-Ghislain 40) pp72-3 (Map

Hôtel Tassel Hôtel % WWI Memorial Horta’s WWI ‘exile’ in England and the USA marked sensu- a transition in styles – gone was the d’Enfants ous art nouveau and in its place stood the clean-cut functionalism of art deco. From 1922 to 1928 ous art and in its place stood the clean-cut functionalism From 1922 to 1928 of art nouveau deco. ), while his disappointing p107 des Beaux-Arts (see BoZar, Palais Hortathe bold but severe designed last major work was the drably functional, post–art deco train station, Bruxelles-Central. HORTA’S CREATIONS CREATIONS HORTA’S for his daring, HortaVictor mostly remembered chameleon (1861–1947) was an architectural His art buildings using trademark elements of wrought iron and glass. light-suffused nouveau ) was torn down in 1965 but surviving masterpieces p184 (see once-celebrated Maison du Peuple (now ) and Grand Magasin Waucquez opposite include Rue Américaine 25 (now the Musée Horta, ), along with Horta’s first truly art house, nouveau p80 Belge de la Bande Dessinée, the Centre the 1893 Other nearby art nouveau houses (closedOther nearby art nouveau prominent art nouveau architect Paul Paul architect prominent art nouveau own studio (1859–1901) as his Hankar Leading north are the pretty Leading the pretty north are A few doors away a much more sedate sedate more away a much doors A few Rue Defacqz 71 83 Rue Faider Rue Africaine 92 the top design at ous lines and a big circular window ous lines and a big circular

   FLAGEY AREA ings on the otherwise stern (Étangs d’Ixelles) flanked by an artistic though by flanked (Étangs d’Ixelles) modest the national radio building. With its distinc- round ‘periscope’ tower, it’s an art deco tive and various that now hosts a hip cafe classic entertainment venues. the 1938 ‘liner’ building, .flagey.be; Place Flagey) Centre of an up-and-coming nightlife area is area an up-and-coming nightlife Centre of to house-facades art nouveau sions. Private include the crazy wrought-iron rail- admire

sport mirrored walls, glorious timber panel- walls, glorious sport mirrored stained-glass inlays and curly ling, intimate door handles. public): to the but it’s the interior that impresses. Radiating that impresses. but it’s the interior from an iron-laced staircase, airy rooms below ), who lived here himself until 1919. himself until 1919. here ), who lived below dome ironwork has distinctive The exterior built between 1898 and 1901 by Brussels’ built betweenby Brussels’ 1898 and 1901 Victor Horta(see architect, most renowned Américaine 25; admission €5; adjoining housesoccupies two and designed (Map ; pp72-3 Terminator heads and vampire cocoons, then cocoons, heads and vampire Terminator a troll. electrocute lets you lonelyplanet.com

attraction is the art nouveau art nouveau the attraction is BRUSSELS index_fr.html; Ave Jules Van Praet 44;adult/concession/child/ Orient the key attractionsin the Jan-Nov) Tue-Sun, Notre-Dame; Parvis www.ndlaeken-olvlaken.be; deLaeken Notre-Dame the splendid,triple-spired stonechurch of in the species. Take bus53from Metro Bockstael. tents includemanyfabulousandrare tropical of itsdayandthecon- marvel an engineering teacher). (Horta’s Theconstructionwas Balat May) Apr-early www.monarchy.be; Ave duParc Royal61;admission€2; Greenhouses thusiastic queuestovisitthemagnificent nounced each January) youcanjointheen- but twoorthree ayear(exactdates weeks an- ing family.Allare outof boundstotourists of palace-villas rul- thatare hometoBelgium’s The Laeken recently rebuilt after a tragic fire. historic ChaletRobinson and anislandonartificiallake, where the grounds, a‘pocket’ theatre, roller-skating rink in1862theparkhaslawns,play- Established then extend allthewaytoWaterloo ( p217 ). soaringbeech treesForêt deSoignes,whose It stretches fromregal Ave tothe Louise pp66–7 great) formsBrussels’ green lungs. This remarkably extensive forest park(Map BOIS DELACAMBRE Take tram23 or 90. sketch forthelatter’s classic and aVincentvanGogh van deWoestyne by vanBuuren’s symbolistprotégé, talented of are art.Alsonotable more than30works top-quality paintingscovering five centuries glassand with sublimefurnishings, stained Wed-Mon) €10/8/5/free, gardenonly€5/4/2.50/free; buuren.com; Ave LéoErrera 41;adult/senior/student/child Buuren find theexquisite Uccle-Stalle. station a first glanceatthegraffiti-tagged mune, middle-class Uccle isanaffluent, Uccle (Ukkel) 90 A pairof Asian realistic East pagodasform royalsare laidtorest Belgian Deceased you’ll In a1928artdecoshowpiece house Domaine Royal RSES • ihs BRUSSELS ••Sights

( though you’dhardlythinksofrom though %

crypt Mp pp66-7; (Map , where five roomsare crammed 02-268 1608; http://orient.kmkg-mrah.be/japan/

(Serres Royales;M (Serres , designedin1873byAlphonse ( h . 2pm-5pm Sun&specialholidays) (Royal Estate) contains atrio (Royal Estate) contains % Musée DavidetAlicevan Musée 02-343 4851;www.museumvan Mp pp66-7; (Map ap pp66-7 ; café Musées d’Extrême- Musées Peeling Potatoes -restaurant was % % h 02-479 2362; 02-551 2020; h 2-5.30pm com- 2-5pm h Royal of late . and car access is easy from the Brussels ring. and caraccessiseasyfromtheBrussels tion Heysel ishandy,tram81more scenic and asubtropicalwater fun-park.Metro sta- originalmultiplex/IMAXcinema Belgium’s you’ll alsofindthenationalfootballstadium, ing terraced tiers Nearby cappedbystatues. deco bition hallsincludingthedistinctive 1930art nates asprawling complexof trade-fair exhi- The astoundingAtomium(see below ) domi- Heysel an 1880 and mature chestnut trees. Itsfocalpointis pansive off tram4or23 ing. Get at ‘Araucaria’. armourandukiyo-epaint- swords, samurai overlooked Japanese shows off Artsmuseum priceless Asian decorative artswhileaneasily to Khajuraho-Indian. Bothpagodasdisplay 7 Pavillon Chinois glass windows.Insidethegloriouslyglittering art nouveau flourishes,such asinthestained- fabulous Japanese pavilion withoccasional (Japanese Tower;Map pp66–7 ) fronted bya the ticket desktothevermillion Paris World’sFair. Anunderpassleadsfrom similartowers atthe1890 the kinghadseen are Léopold IIleftovers, builtin1905after h Brusselscard €4/3/1.50/free, 1-4.45pm1stWedofmonthfree; sphere where, theviews aren’t disappointingly, received ashiny makeover in 2006. it rapidlybecame anarchitectural icon and destined fordemolition thereafter. However, for the1958World’sFair andwasoriginally It wasbuiltasasymbolof postwarprogress aretice…except these 165billiontimesbigger. torepresentset lat- ironatomsintheircrystal The ballsare arranged like aschool chemistry escalatorstube-columns containing andlifts. ballslinked metallic bysteel nine house-sized from a’60sHollywoodmovie. Itconsistsof suburbialikeBrussels’ agleamingsteel alien free; www.atomium.be; adult/concession/Brusselscard/child€9/6/6/ The space-age ATOMIUM is anentirely different world. 6km north,historicGrimbergen village ( p113 ) If you’re drivingorcyclingnote thatlessthan ) ,

Stretching westtotheAtomium,ex- Visits take you bylifttothetoppanorama the decorswingsfromgildedbelleépoque 9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4.30pmSat&Sun) 9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, h Palais duCentenaire 10am-5.30pm) Parc deLaeken Léopold I statue (Chinese Pavilion; (Chinese Map pp66– Atomium looms102mover north isdotted withmagnolia (Map pp66-7; (Map .

(Map pp66–7 ) lonelyplanet.com

% Tour Japonaise 02-475 4777;

featur- . Both

BRUSSELS 02- 91 barge closed % ( -ringed -ringed Church of h (

football team café from where from where

, . It’s an unex- 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, begijnhof MuséeBruxellois de . h , where several 1920s , where 02-521 4928; www.cantillon , this sprawling west- 9am-noon daily & 2pm-5.30pm canal district % h Erasmus House Museum Erasmus House Museum

( 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) 02-522 1539; www.rsca.be; Van den Stock Van 02-522 1539; www.rsca.be; h is in fact an architectural mas- an architectural is in fact . Atmospheric and family run, it’s % (Map pp68-9 ; pp68-9 (Map . It’s now an appealing two-house . It’s now an appealing two-house Place de la Vaillance . The church has some original murals . The church (www.brussels bywater.be) (www.brussels you can now take a variety of summer variety of a take you can now cruises .be; Rue Gheude 56; admission €5; 10am-5pm Sat) ) brewery p49 Brussels’ last operating lambic ( the original 19th-century and still uses of much a brief explanation, visitors equipment. After a self-guidedtake tour including the barrel Thu-Tue) right site: pilgrimage and was once a major and those suffer- up until WWI, cart-drivers the to pray before here ing fits would arrive 10th-century St-Guy (Guidon), of reliquary cattle, work- patron saintthe multitasked of fine, The church’s sheds and epileptics. horses, carved looks especially pho- spire white-stone viewed up narrow Rue Poselein,togenic and it attractive, the patchily dominates square pseudo-medievalbuildings have facades. behind. directly Saint-Guidon lies Metro CANTILLON BREWERY miss this unique liv- shouldn’t Beer lovers the ing brewery-museum, la Gueuze reputation. However, 1521 it was still back in reputation. when the world-famous a country village to ‘play at farming’. humanist Erasmus came he stayed for five where brick home The lovely is now the months 31; Rue du Chapitre 521 1383; www.erasmushouse.museum; admission €1.25; furnished with fine artworks little gem pected paintings including several Primitive Flemish an There’s and some priceless manuscripts. ‘philosophy garden’ behind and attractive ac- also allows modest entry fee the already to Belgium’scess smallest noon-2pm) something-of-everything be- museum tucked hind the nearby 16th-century Gothic St-Pierre & St-Guidon .be; Rue Picard 3) Picard .be; Rue in these and commercial space fine exhibition depots. and customs Victorian warehouses of gentrification an ongoing of It’s all part Brussels’ run-down Anderlecht known for its best Internationally (Map pp66-7 ; 2) Théo Verbeeck Stadium, Ave grimy, run-down ern suburb now has a rather terpiece – its 21st-century revamp creating a a creating revamp its 21st-century – terpiece

02- %

. On cer- Tour & Taxis (Map pp66-7 ;

9am-5pm May-Sep, 10am- 02-421 1669; www.basilique Basilique Nationale du Basilique Nationale du 02-420 6069; www.tourtaxis h % 02-479 5850; www.belgiumtaste. % MiniEurope % reopens at 7.30pm, putting at 7.30pm, putting reopens BRUSSELS •• Sights ( (Map pp66-7 ;

is the world’s fifth-largest church church is the world’s fifth-largest (Map pp66-7 ;

restaurant

10am-5pm Apr-Dec, 9.30am-8pm Jul-Aug) 10am-5pm Apr-Dec, 9.30am-8pm

At night the spheres sparkle magically and, sparkle magically At night spheres the complex A postal sorting shed doesn’t sound like an doesn’tA postal sorting shed sound like tourist draw but the immediate Molenbeek Molenbeek TOUR & TAXIS lift (adult/Brusselscard €4/2.40) to a 53m-high panorama balcony for wide views including on the Atomium. perspective an interesting (southwest side). from door 6 Enter end of ruler-straight Blvd Léopold II. Take the Blvd Léopold II. Take ruler-straight end of finances impoverished so a 1925 re-design so a 1925 re-design finances impoverished details. the intricate The off most of shaved in 1969, has finally completed lumpy result, stained glass but is predomi- some attractive dull, brown brick elephant of nantly a white copperwork. The central dome is and green visible for miles, commanding the northwest 4pm Oct-Apr) neogothic sary), of feast a truly magnificent was planned. However, WWI left state spires and, by some measures, the world’s largest art the world’s largest and, by some measures, deco building. When construction started in Belgium’s1905 (to celebrate 75th anniver- .be; Parvis de la Basilique 1; Ghastly but gigantic, Sacré-Cœur Koekelberg BASILICA NATIONAL at 10.30pm. tain nights midsummer Saturday it stays displays open till midnight, with firework 478 1313; www.minieurope.com; adult/child €11.80/8.80; adult/child €11.80/8.80; 478 1313; www.minieurope.com; h Europe? Easy. the dozens Just photograph the continent’s top 1/25th scale models of of monuments at MINI EUROPE MINI EUROPE that you sawWant to fool your friends all of serving a view. Dinner with decent dinners but entrance fee guests don’t pay the tower 100% essential. reservations are com; mains €12-20) functional tables on its and starched cloths except during midsummer, the panorama- except during level other spheres. Displays focus on the building’s focus on the building’s Displays other spheres. need and the 1958 fair but you’ll construction the extra €2 for an audio-guide paid to have from them. to learn much labelled and queues are possible. Back possible. the at are and queues labelled four show you and stairs escalators bottom, lonelyplanet.com BRUSSELS geometric exterior isanearlypremonition of controversial with the dealing isthesection scapes bysymbolist artistEmileFabry. Most wallsarewhose still adorned withland- changed littlesinceitopened in 1910and of thathas played inasection themuseum are animalsandpinnedinsects stuffed dis- locked vaults.Numerous inthemuseum’s displayed isonlyafractionof what’sstill Andwhat’s canoe. long, 3.5-tonneLengola tools, woven baskets andanenormous22m- p30 ). (see percentage of population die theCongolese (Congo), where astaggering hisrulesaw dered fromLéopold’sthen-private ‘garden’ muchOf course, of thecollectionwasplun- most impressive arrayof Africanartefacts. by King Léopold IItoshow offEurope’s veritable palaceof abuilding,purpose-built €2; concession/child/Brusselscard €5/4/free/free, audio-guide Leuvensesteenweg 13,Tervuren;.africamuseum.be; adult/ voorMidden-Afrika; Museum the unique easternjust beyondBrussels’ citylimit.Here Tram 44terminates inverdant Tervuren, TERVUREN original workbyKlimt and Khnopff. to visitandadmire theinteriors, which feature vation buthopefullyitwillonedaybepossible time of research thebuildingwasunderreno- art deco. AUnescosite sinceJune2009,atthe de Tervuren 281; to spotthe1911 (south)side Forêt desSoignes.Sitontheright thenorthernreachesand through of theleafy villas, thelovely parklandpondsof Woluwé Ave deTervuren eastpastopulentembassy Montgoméry followsbeautifultree-lined A 20-minute rideontram44fromMetro AVENUE (TERVURENLAAN) DETERVUREN Woluwé &Tervuren backstreet near Metro Clemenceau. able asabrewery, it’slocated onafaceless acidicbrews.startlingly Virtuallyunrecognis- fee includestwotaster-glasses of Cantillon’s low coppertubintheatticroom.Theentry which occurs (winter only) inavast,shal- fermentation process, lambic’s spontaneous cobwebs asspiders are considered friendsof years inchestnut plentyof wine-casks.Expect rooms where thebeers mature foruptothree 92 The superbcollectionincludes masks, h RSES • ciiis BRUSSELS ••Activities 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6pmSat&Sun) 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, Africa Museum Museum Africa h closed) Palais Stoclet , whose stark, radically stark, , whose (off Map (off Map pp66-7 ; Koninklijk % 02-769 5211;www

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reception 7am-1pm & 4-11pm) reception WEEKEND & SUMMER DEALS WEEKEND & SUMMER DEALS With most of Brussels’ accommodation and at Eurocrats scene aimed squarely many mid- and upper- business travellers, dramatically drop their rates range hotels Double rooms at weekends and in summer. €240 of midweek rates with September – so might cost as little as €69 in August Shop around and check why use a hostel? deals, especially on for internet carefully chain hotels. HI Hostel JOHN Breugel 2Go4 Sleep Well Midrange & Top End Midrange & Top End p70 ; Rue des Harengs 6; doubles €59 to €70), 6; ; Rue des Harengs p70 beams and a low ceilings, hefty have which fabulously central location. Rates include cof- not breakfast. but fee included in rack rate is generally Breakfast scored prices, but not necessarily when you’ve carefully. Check bargain. an internet www.jeugdherbergen.be/brussel.htm; Rue du Saint Esprit 2; HI members dm/s/d €19.80/34/48.40; 2pm, curfew 1am-7am; commu- with limited somewhat institutional free, wi-fi €2 per hour, Internet nal space. lockers €1.50. s/d/tr/q €55/69/96/116; Émile Jacqmain 99; dm €22-29, h furnishings zany ground-floor features hostel old Atomium sheet- of including a chunk It’s toward the reception. ing hanging above town but on a bright,slightly sleazier end of Come No lockout, no curfew. street. major their booked in even if you’ve to check here ‘Grand Place Rooms’ (Map unpretentious .be; Rue du Damier 23; hostel dm/s/d/tr €19.70/30.50/55.40/ dm/s/d/tr du Damier 23; hostel .be; Rue €43/62/88; 74.10, hotel s/d/tr the over a tinkling Manneken and colours contrast to the soulless an inviting door are by a surroundings dominated (if central) meet- plenty of park. There’s car multistorey games breakfast, a bar, free space, each-other (€1.50 per half and internet room, terrace worn rooms hour). Functional, somewhat sec- The hostel student residences. look like facilities (though some rooms tion has shared taps and toilets) and can’t be accessedhave and 3pm. between 11am 02-217 02-218 02-218 (Map p86 ; %

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Centre Vincent van Gogh Centre Vincent van Gogh HI Hostel Jacques Brel €2 per hour. €2 per reaching the toilets means crossing the garden reaching Wi-fi required. courtyard. No membership randa are unusually hip for a hostel, but but unusually hip for a hostel, randa are less glamorous and, from some, rooms are 0158; www.chab.be; Rue Traversière 8; dm/s/d €18/33/52; 0158; www.chab.be; Rue Traversière niW wi-fi, laundry for €4, no lockout and a partly wi-fi, is included. breakfast ‘bio’ (organic) occasional live music (sometimes guests play occasional live free terrace, a 2nd-floor for their bed!), there’s sentable and reasonably spacious hostel in sentable in spacious hostel and reasonably The bar has a pleasant, nearly central area. 0187; [email protected]; Rue de la Sablonnière 30; dm/s/d Rue de la Sablonnière 0187; [email protected]; €17.40/34/48; slightly discounted if you’re under 26. if you’re slightly discounted Budget Budget and are breakfast include fees Most hostel and Beersel ). ( p113 may park outside (€10 without hook-up). The further much full camping grounds are nearest afield in Wezembeek-Oppem, Grimbergen spired church, Église du St-Sacrement. Rather Église du St-Sacrement. church, spired and campervans available are ropy showers h a spindle- place hidden away in the garden of % Camping Camping Bruxelles-Europe à Ciel Ouvert www.bnb-br ussels.be) in nearby Ste-Catherine. Brusselsin nearby Ste-Catherine. has a rea- and listed B&Bs, many sonable network of bookable through accommodation within the central ‘pentagon’,accommodation within the Place or perhaps ideally around the Grand Brussels has a vast range of accommodation. Brussels of has a vast range to find on specific business, try you’re Unless SLEEPING SLEEPING FESTIVALS & EVENTS EVENTS & FESTIVALS for Brussels events. p16 See other much more sporadic themed tours, seesporadic themed tours, more other much the website. bus tours (adult/concession €17/13) usually €17/13) (adult/concession bus tours start or French/ Saturdays (English 10am For their to mid-December. English) April gems that are otherwise closedthat are to the pub- gems art nouveau three-hour popular lic. Their Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book in central Brussels is a simple summer-only in central Brussels is a simple summer-only BRUSSELS pets. Thedecorisminimalistbutsomewhat ceilinged roomswithcolourfullystripycar- unsophisticated six-roomB&B-style‘hotel’, Pis fromthewindowof room5inthisneat, .hotel-mozart.be; Rue Marché auxFromages23;s/d/tr/q RueMarché .hotel-mozart.be; 7th-floor breakfast roomwithsuperb views well-hidden hotel’s feature outstanding isits RuedelaFourche17;r€85-299; .florishotels.com; isvery friendly. hours. Service occasional full-scalerockconcerts)till thewee a square thatremains alive withactivity (and bear inmindyou’llalsoshare thesoundsof the frontroomsare trulybreathtaking but a liftlike agoodselevator. Theviewsfrom forgive thedowdy decor,soft mattresses and fabulous GrandPlacemeansyoujust might view €120/140/163) .atgp.be; GrandPlace15;withoutviews/d/tr€65/105/128,with street. ‘Pita’ front rooms,which overlook never-sleeping defects goodearplugsinthe andyou’llneed mattresses are bathroomshave saggy, their veau’ lamps.Garish,funandvery centralbut of ‘antiques’,paintings and‘artnou- imitation rococo-styled chairs andanincredible crush gilt pluswallfountains, Turkish mosaic-work overloadsensory of thisplace–lashingsof rather thanSaltzburg whenimaginingthe €80/100/130/150;) minute walk-inrates of €65as we were. quiet andgreat valueifyou’re offered last- lacking instyle. Rearroomsare peacefully hotel.be; RuedesÉperonniers42;d€80-200) wi-fi. Free chetypal giftshop. Checkinbefore 10pm. spiralstairs bysteep fromanar-accessed €76/86, summer€65/75; .lavieillelanterne.be; RuedesGrandsCarmes29;s/dfrom in amore Moroccan-Asian style. offersbed. AdjacentCasa-BXL three rooms Marilyn prints.Oneroomfeatures around featuring zebrastripedcushions andWarhol windsuptogood-valueclassic staircase rooms breakfast and help-yourself coffee table bar,a away.Fromthecommunal dance thenight wantingto B&B issuperblylocated forthose 118-120; d€76) auCharbon townbxl.com, www.lacasabxl.com;RueduMarché Downtown-BXL GRAND PLACE AREA 94 Hôtel Arlequin Hôtel Mozart Hotel Alma Hotel Hôtel Saint-Michel Hôtel Lanterne La Vieille RSES • leig BRUSSELS ••Sleeping Near the capital’s gaydistrict,this Near thecapital’s

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The €115; vations, 02-214 2424; www.metropolehotel.com; Place de vations, 02-214 2424; www.metropolehotel.com; Place de 31; s/d/ste €330/360/500, weekendBrouckère rates from Breakfast Breakfast €29. here towards the seedier Gare du Nord area. du Nord area. towards the seedier Gare here seem somewhat overworked and the loca- seem somewhat overworked by central, is marred tion, while reasonably sex shops that leads north from the block of classical charm. Rooms are refined and and refined Rooms are classical charm. has a con- unusually spacious and the hotel policy. However, scious eco-sensitive staff outside the architecture looks unsophisti- looks outside the architecture art deco but inside the foyer oozes catedly sels.be; Blvd Adolphe Maxsels.be; 118-126; r €100-400) in an area suffering from rather patchy archi- suffering from rather patchy in an area and atmosphere. tecture modern chic this excellent top-range palace top-range this excellent modern chic right a former abbey be- of occupies the site hind La It’s hard to beat for style Monnaie. central albeit and the location is wonderfully Combining classic elegance with understated with understated Combining classic elegance worth considering when discounted to €69 discounted worth considering when in summer. Wa but well at rack rates overpriced rooms are .be; Rue du Marché aux Herbes 78; s/d/tr/f €220/240/310/360; Lifts stop between floors so you’ll need Lifts stop between to deal floors some stairs. with the Creuz Suite has its bathroom tucked curi- its bathroom tucked has Suite the Creuz basement. 14th-century vaulted ously into a courtyard-garden in the cheaper rear section, rear in the cheaper courtyard-garden though less than memorable, are some rooms with four-poster beds. Across a tiny enclosed beds. Across a tiny with four-poster the bar-lounge has been to re-create done out the bar-lounge are 24 guestrooms The ambience. a similar variety in a wide decorated all individually come suites styles. Spacious executive of Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book (frequent live music) features recently ‘redis- recently music) features live (frequent dominican.be; Rue Léopold 9; r €315-1150; dominican.be; Rue Léopold 9; droppingly sumptuous French Renaissance- droppingly sumptuous French BRUSSELS www.hotelgrandecloche.com; PlRoupe10;s/d/tr€68/79/90) in thecentre isfull or overpriced. make itareasonable fallbackwheneverything less professionally run anditsfixed prices softslightly mattresses, this place isnonethe- Unremarkable, somewhatdisjointed andwith from a prime location. nearerand slightly thecentre, stillfar though more butthearea’s somewhatlessdaunting Roupe (three blocksnorth)don’t costmuch major HotelsBrussels’ aroundPlace sights. the centre tobetrulyconvenient forvisiting real charm here andit’sabittoofarfrom largely immigrantdistricts.Still,there’s little inality aspartof prejudice acertain against exaggerate thearea’s reputation forpettycrim- neighbourhoods. Localsprobablysalubrious aware thatthisisnotoneof more Brussels’ often very competitive. Butyoushould be main international andpricesare station, There are numeroushotels aroundBrussels’ BRUXELLES-MIDI AREA booking here during seasons. high year-roundstant soit’sworthconsidering bric-a-brac market square. Pricesare con- toilet cubiclesoverlook well-known Brussels’ n 15;s/d/tr/q from€65/75/90/120; .com; PlaceduJeu-de-Balle Galia Hôtel MAROLLES weekend bargains can be found. feeling chintzy. Breakfast costs€25.Online Sanderson-floral toDelftware-effect without guestrooms where timelessfabricsvaryfrom lounge-lobby styledlike aclublibraryand ‘English-style’teel classhasamock-classical €220/84; from .stanhope.be; RueduCommerce9;dweekday/weekend month) per Duplex top-floor studioavailable (€1000 ettes) gives theplaceauniquecharacter. antiqueAfricanstatu- the world(notably ing artworkandcuriositiesfromallover Furniture newandoldcombinedwithstrik- and large, tastefully appointed guestrooms. part-stripped woodenfloors, ceilings high unmarked featuring 19th-centurytownhouse 2 nightss/d€140/180; www.chambresenville.be; RuedeLondres 19;s/d€80/100, 96 Hôtel Stanhope Hôtel enVille Chambres Hôtel àlaGrandeCloche Hôtel ) Simpleroomswithtinyplasticshower- RSES • aig BRUSSELS ••Eating niWw

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(Map pp68-9 ; kriek is truly superb for fish though is truly superb for fish though Belgian a chic, cuisine is given (Map p70 ; , also set amid towering beeches , also set amid towering beeches

Cosy in a cramped Parisian bistro Cosy in a cramped Parisian lunch & dinner Mon-Fri,lunch & dinner dinner Sat) Chez Léon Chez Léon Belga Queen Brussels Brasserie de la Roue d’Or In ‘t Spinnekopke (Map pp66-7 ; www.barbizon.be)

www.belgaqueen.be; Rue Fossé aux Loups 32; mains/ weekday lunch/beers from €20/16/2.50; & 7pm-midnight) ceilings and marble columns stained-glass an indecently hip oyster hidden behind are beer and wide-ranging counter and cocktail In the former bar (open noon till late). a cigar lounge bank vaults beneath, there’s .be; Rue des Bouchers 18; mains €15-27; .be; Rue des Bouchers 18; mains serves favourite This long-time tourist the original ‘Mussels from Brussels’, and makes if you don’t mind a good place to try them somewhat 850g) are that portions (mostly small by Belgian spread standards. Rooms are several gabled house decor varies and over to somewhat tacky classic from attractively you sit. depending on where Rue des Chapeliers 26; mains €15-28; closed Jul) this place serves way, sort of excellent if somewhat pricey Belgian food. Wall murals to the city’s and ceiling clouds pay homage surrealist artists. gingham tablecloths create a wonderfully a wonderfully create gingham tablecloths Brussels traditional for atmosphere typical and various changing with steaks food, along as salmonsuch in Hoegaardenbeer or recipes in guinea fowl .spinnekopke.be; 1; mains €15-25; Place du Jardin aux Fleurs h whitewashed occupies a 17th-century classic spilling onto on with a summer terrace cottage speciali- Bruxellois square. a newly revamped sauces in beer-based ties and meats cooked and some authentic but hardly a bargain are tad cramped. a the tables feel of modern twist within a magnificent if rever- berant 19th-century bank building. Classical (Map p70 ; www.seagrill.be) Barbizon (Map p70 ; www.commechezsoi.be)

(www.lechaletdelaforet.be)

Sea Grill Sea 02-511 5123; Rue de 02-511 5123; Rue 02-217 8500; www (beer-based hot- (beer-based Black and dark Black and dark bar 4.30pm-1am, kitchen % % 02-512 1593; Rue de Flandre 02-512 1593; Rue de Flandre noon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm noon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Comme Chez Soi h 02-512 7550; www.la-villette Chalet de la Forêt % h % a thick bean-based stew. stew. a thick bean-based Beams, dark wood and (Map p70 ;

noon-2.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm Mon- (Map p70 ; carbonade carbonade noon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Thu-Sat, plus

BRUSSELS •• Eating noon-10.30pm) Hefty Belgian classics served Hefty h (Map p70 ; Rue des Chartreux 9; mains p70 (Map (cherry beer)-chicken to mez- beer)-chicken (cherry

(Map p70 ; h near Koekelberg, Alain Deluc’s Alain near Koekelberg, h (Map p70 ; From cassoulet,

kriek This warm, colourful French-rustic- This warm,

.bruneau.be) in the Forêt de Soignes. Central Central in the Forêt de Soignes. business-hotel. in a typical international oddly located TOP RESTAURANTS TOP RESTAURANTS if money is no ob- and value for money. However, focus on ambience reviews Our restaurant many run by internationally restaurants, Michelin-starred ject check out one of Brussels’ dozen card you may need reservations weeks with a plutonium credit that even Beware known chefs. in advance for mythic lengthy taxi ride from the city centre, including Jean-Pierre Bruneau’s Bruneau’s including Jean-Pierre lengthy taxi ride from the city centre, Pascal Devalkeneer’s Pascal La Villette Brasserie Royal Viva M’Boma Fin de Siècle Fin Lower Lower Town Fri, 6.30pm-11.30pm Sat) .be; Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains 3; mains €16-20.50, mussels €21-23, lunch €14; put you off. put a jazzy setting for steaks, fish or traditional a jazzy setting fish for steaks, Belgian Don’t let the abysmal website fare. 19, beer €2.20; light and of UFOs walls with white chocolate for decor create Bombay Sapphire rows of .royalbrasseriebrussels.be; Rue de Flandre 103; mains €12.50- .royalbrasseriebrussels.be; Rue de Flandre in a long, narrow bistro entirely walled in walled in in a long, narrow bistro entirely shop the butchers’ tiles like gleaming white it once was. A stuffed sheep and pig’s head meet and greet. 17; mains €11-18; noon-2pm Mon-Tue) zes and tandoori chicken, the food selection zes and tandoori chicken, in this low-lit cult is as eclectic as the decor rough, constant, music ceil- are Tables place. to the still converted ings purple and prices centime from Belgian the Francs. To quote no phone, no bookings, no barman ‘there’s do everythingsign on the door…we to put coming’. keep but they still people off 6pm-12.30am) pot) and €10.23-15.81, beer from €1.91; Prices are very reasonable, especially if you reasonable, very Prices are starters. foie-gras their speciality avoid duck-related including various duck sausages, including duck-related pâtés and Tue-Sat) on each a toaster features style restaurant is Virtually every dish table. checkerboard Domaine de Lintillac 25; mains €9.50-28; Flandre FRENCH & BELGIAN & BELGIAN FRENCH lonelyplanet.com BRUSSELS selection is in the Ste-Catherine area. isintheSte-Catherine selection Quality there are specialists.Thebest alsoseafood plates but monkfish and seafood season), (in mussels restaurantsMany serve Belgian 10.30pm Monday to Saturday). to €27;opennoon2.30pmand6.30pm mains€15 (www.brasseriedelommegang.be; formal trytheir1st-floor OmmegangBrasserie less Grand Placeview.Forsomethingslightly ahead toscore oneof thefew witha tables of aclassic17th-centuryguildhall.Bookway this sophisticated restaurant onthe2ndfloor in cuisineisserved seasonal Belgo-French €65; www.lamaisonducygne.be; GrandPlace;mains€37-65,menu Steaks andduckdishes are also available. the best(thesalmon qualitychallengesfish restaurants butseafood phere ismuch livelier thanmanyupmarket packed andplentyof tables bustle. Theatmos- bistro-restaurant floors, hassawdust close- 28; 1;lunch€11,mains€23- desPrinces Galerie .ogenblik.be; experiences. positive among cityresidents butwe’ve alwayshad hereand foodstandards are heatedly debated have instore! amemorable surprise Service Wednesday toSaturday.Theuniquetoilets that morphs after intoanightclub 10pm 98 SEAFOOD SEAFOOD La Maison duCygne La Maison o a standardbeer. than halfthatprice youcanusuallyorder No, tapwater isn’tanoption.Butforless bottle ofwater willtypicallycost€5to€7. Or maybebeer?Inmidrangerestaurants a WATER INTOWINE? on thisstreet atleast,isalwaysdoublecheck. ‘house wine’turnedouttobeoneofthemostexpensive options onthewinelist.Somoral, implying (ifnever saying)thattheywere actually included.Asecondclever ‘scam’wasthatthe ourorder,thewaiter nonchalantlysuggestedtaking somevastlymore expensive alternatives, In oneexampleweagreed abargain totake valuemenulisted ontheboardoutside. Butwhen high-class Belgian favourites. somesubtletrickery. otherplaceswe’ve observed Butatcertain ( p97 ) isaveritable institutionformusselsandAux ArmesdeBruxelles isareliable placefor genic sceneontheRueandPetite RuedesBouchers. coursethere Of are exceptions. ChezLeon Locals tend tosteer clearofmanyundeniablyattractive fishrestaurants thatcreate suchaphoto- TOO GOODTOBETRUE? h h RSES • aig BRUSSELS ••Eating noon-2.30pm &7pm-midnight) lunch Mon-Fri, dinnerSun-Fri) lunch Mon-Fri, L’Ogenblik

Mp p70; (Map

Mp p70; (Map mille-feuille % Gastronomic Thishistoric 02-511 6151;www % 02-511 8244; isdivine). mains €24-26; Sat, 11am-8pmSun) beams upstairs and a pleasant beams upstairs andapleasant buzz. tions. Vistrohasbare brickwallsandA-frame ticeably cheaper op- thanmanySte-Catherine 6.30-midnight Mon-Sat) mains €17-38,menus€22-47; tables. outdoor snack lunch-grabbers aroundbare metal window catering toaqueueof stand-and- 45; noordzee.be; RueSte-Catherine inthe elevated pricier restaurants. that drinkpricescanbedisproportionately mosphere andpricerange thatsuits.Note similar soit’samatter of finding theat- is generally here high andmenuitems fairly Dansaert 19;3/6/9pintxos€8.50/14/19; Dansaert Comocomo OTHER EUROPEAN whocan those them. afford meals get consistently goodlocalreviews from and ahushedairof mildformality.Thefish art onwhitewashed timber walls,simpletables h bois àBrûler47-49;mains€22.50-32,beer/coffee €4.25/4; month is€20 a bottle. ble pricesandajollyambience. Wineof the mirror panelledwalls,modelyachts, sensi- & 6-10.30pmMon-Sat) boer.com; 60;mains€15-28; QuaiauxBriques changing shortlist of recommendations. andthere’scramped butqualityishigh adaily steersman’s windows.Tables canfeel slightly mirrorslamps andhigh-up like rectangular minimalist fashion,withrowsof ceilingpoint- is popularandstylish inasimple,vaguely Mer duNord Mer Vismet Vismet La Marie-Joseph Bij denBoer Vistro noon-3pm &6.30-11pmTue-Sun)

Mp p70; (Map Mp p70; (Map

h Mp p70; (Map Mp p70; (Map

Mp p70; (Map noon-3pm &7-10pmTue-Sat) Well-reputed fishmonger’s % %

Convivialfavourite, with Mp p70; (Map Much less formalandno- 02-512 4181; Quai aux Briques 16; 02-512 4181;QuaiauxBriques % 02-218 8545; Pl Ste-Catherine 23; 02-218 8545;PlSte-Catherine % % h 02-503 0330;RueAntoine 02-513 1192;www.vishandel 02-512 6122;www.bijden % noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri & noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri Bright, modern Bright, h 02-218 0596;Quaiau lonelyplanet.com h 11am-5pm Tue- h lunch &dinner; Vismet noon-2.30pm BRUSSELS )

W 99 6pm- injera injera h (ham- 11am-6pm 9.30am- Warmly 8am-10pm) 7pm-5am; 11am-1am) h (potato-veg (potato-veg h h h h stoemp 02-219 6378; www.lesibemol Vegetarian snack bar bar snack Vegetarian chicons au gratin chicons % 02-512 1111; www.mysticalresto.be; 02-512 1111; www.mysticalresto.be; 02-511 1950; www.kokob.be; Rue des 02-511 1950; www.kokob.be; (Quai aux Briques 86; % % (Map p70 ; Bare-brick walls and alternating alternating walls and Bare-brick (Map p70 ; Rue du Marché aux Fromages) p70 (Map (Map p70 ; Rue au Beurre 25; ; Rue au Beurre p70 (Map (Map p70 ; Rue de la Colline 11; p70 (Map s around Place de Jeu-de-Balle (Map (Map s around Place de Jeu-de-Balle (Map p70 ; Rue Henri Maus 49; p70 (Map (Map p70 ;

(Map p70 ;

(Map p70 ; Rue du Marché aux Herbes 85) Handy p70 (Map café 11.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)11.30am-4pm 6.30pm-11pm daily & noon-4pm Thu-Sun) 6.30pm-11pm daily Si Bemol h Small central supermarket. Small central chain-bakery and sandwich shop. chain-bakery and sandwich Leonidas SELF-CATERING GB Express QUICK EATS QUICK EATS sand- lunchtime inexpensive of A range shops lies in and around the Galerie wich :) behind pp68–9 arcade (Map Ravenstein Bruxelles-Central station. the fol- Elsewhere, options include: lowing snack Panos Pita Places Rue du Marché from a swarm of places along aux Pick Most open at lunchtime then work all night till Fromages. take away. around 6am. Basic pitas cost from €3. Eat in or Fritland Comus & Gasterea Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sun) Modern ice-cream parlour where the cones. everything’s homemade, including Mystical pasta €8-14; Rue des Éperonniers 57; mains €11-24, 5am Tue-Sun) and lit attractively seats are black and cream surveyed Léopold II. The by Buddha and menu includes grills, mussels, kangaroo and almond-honey sauce. in .be; Rue aux Fleurs 20; mains €10.50-21.50; Traditional cuisine from to mash) to steaks in cheese sauce)wrapped endives available almost till dawn. By the time Si Bemol closes, ) will be opening so you needn’t the pp72–3 go hungry. that’s mostly organic. that’s AFRICAN Kokob h centre bar/restaurant/cultural lit Ethiopian best shared are dishes well-explained where pancake-like from and with then eaten music one acoustic is live There (€0.75 each). per month. Thursday NIGHT LATE midnight) Snack on skewers strawberries of fresh dipped in fountain (€3). a chocolate Chips. Grands Carmes 10; veg/meat dishes from €7.90/11.50, rice veg/meat dishes from €7.90/11.50, Grands Carmes 10; €1; noon- h Excellent- 02-502 8082; 02-502 8082;

% noon-3pm Mon-Fri & h 02-502 4828; www.reve Macrobiotic, veggie veggie Macrobiotic, 02-511 6710; Rue des Harengs des Harengs 02-511 6710; Rue whacky decor, the Thai % Simple, generally reli- Simple, generally (Map p70 ; 02-502 0298; Quai aux Briques 02-502 6299; Rue du Midi 70; 02-511 9402; Rue des Chartreux 02-217 3484; Rue de Flandre 02-217 3484; Rue de Flandre (the Basque version of of (the Basque version Take a tiny, tile-walled a tiny, tile-walled Take

This tiny, typical Japanese This tiny, typical Japanese % % % % % BRUSSELS •• Eating (Map p70 ; Pintxos noon-11pm)

(Map p70 ; (Map p70 ; (Map p70 ; (Map p70 ; h

(Map p70 ;

A trishaw plunges from the ceiling, from A trishaw plunges noon-2pm Mon-Sat) noon-2.30pm & 6.30pm-11pm Mon-Sat) noon-2.30pm & 6.30pm-11pm h noon-2pm & 7-10.15pm) A l’Ombra Picnik Ajiyoshi Rêve d’Asie Ricotta & Parmesan ‘bio’ shop. 66; VEGETARIAN VEGETARIAN Den Teepot merous other Japanese options in Brussels, see merous other Japanese www.ponpokopon. net/resto.html. eatery strikes a fair balance between price and strikes eatery nu- quality. For detailed of customer reviews 32; noodles €9.50-12, katsudon €15.50, sushi sets from €20.50; h tasty (though hardly gourmet) and served options, other Asian Plenty of with a smile. mostly Vietnamese but also an Indian (with huddled are name ‘Shamrock’), the unlikely same street. along the ably calm. Despite the ably calm. Despite well priced and and Vietnamese food is very 11.30pm) the half-plas- out of and frames burst chairs walls but all the Buddhas stay predict- tered able central place for inexpensive Vietnamese, able central place for inexpensive Thai food. Chinese and Lotus Bleu mains €8-13; ASIAN ASIAN h value Italian in atmospheric food enjoyed filled with antique buildings decor – a pair of bottles and antique cooking imple- olive-oil fancifully framed. ments, some www.ricottaparmesan.com; Rue de l’Écuyer 31; mains €9-15; finally communicate. Perhaps…at least with least Perhaps…at finally communicate. grappa. farewell the Insert communal table. stools and a narrow Serve pasta and see fresh if the customers great 1920s shop-house. Keep the classic decor, the classic decor, Keep 1920s shop-house. wooden shelf-holders booth. and cashier 2; pastas €8.50-13, mains €14-18; 2; pastas €8.50-13, Mon-Sat) 6.30pm-11.30pm belt. Colour codes include blue for fish, green green codes include blue for fish, belt. Colour all as for pork, and so on. It’s red for veggies, this part as you’d expect for hip predictably of town. premetro Bourse) premetro lonelyplanet.com 109; soup €2-3, daily special €8, 3-course menu €9.50; 109; soup €2-3, daily special €8, 3-course menu €9.50; dasie.be; Rue Jules Van Praet 19; mains €8-15; dasie.be; Rue Jules Van lunch place attached to a mustard-yellow place attached to a mustard-yellow lunch tapas) snake past on an 80m-long conveyor conveyor on an 80m-long past tapas) snake BRUSSELS it all down. café cuisine’isasgoodyou’llfindandthe ‘beer The decorisunderwhelmingbuttheBelgian art nouveau bieres.eu; 32;mains€12-22,menus€18-38; RuedesRenards Beer-based twists on typical Belgian meals twists ontypicalBelgian Beer-based h cost under €10. predominate. lunch-specials Classic Belgian acter. Mockclockfacesandtwinkling candles rant withoutlosinganyof thebuilding’schar- café adroitly reworked a classicmirror-panelled Tue-Sun; Rue Haute204;mains€9.50-19, Jeu-de-Balle. See map pp72–3 from 5amtill5pmtryany frequently. Forreally cheap food anddrink worth strollingaroundasnewplacesopen host anup-and-comingdiningscene. It’s Rue Blaesandsomeinterconnecting lanes fromthecentre,Walking distance RueHaute, MAROLLES square’s classic tearoom patisserie. ( beside Wittamer is easilymissed p109 ), the food ispresented withaplomb.Theentrance Frenchlook theSablonandlight-touch verted chapel. medieval Frontwindowsover- and ancientbeamsintheupperpartof acon- brickfloors abstract artcontrastswithrough High-backed fashionchairs andmodern,semi- dinner menus€16/40; voir.be; PlaceduGrandSablon8-9;mains€15-25,lunch/ (€5.90). Bar opens 10am. bacon,prunesandgreen-garnishwith cheese, trythetoasted pitas: andgourmet placeforsalads really affordable anddark-woodpanelling.It’sa topped tables Rue Watteeu31;lightmeals€8-10; thereplace, though are exceptions. inthe‘right’ hefty premium forbeingseen On the Sablon itself you’ll often bepayinga SABLON Sablon&Ixelles Marolles, €9-12; -circus.be; Ruedel’Enseignement 57;mains€13-18,pastas Le BierCircus Congrès 100 Quim’s Tour D’yVoir o Restobières Restobières hasavery widerange of brews towash noon-3pm Tue-Sat, 6.30-11pmThu-Sat, 4-11pmSun) intoalow-litfashion-consciousrestau- RSES • aig BRUSSELS ••Eating h a noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri &6pm-midnightMon-Sat) noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri

Mp pp72-3; (Map Le Perroquet ) This Belgo-Portuguese offering has ThisBelgo-Portuguese

café Mp p6- ( pp68-9; (Map Mp pp72-3; (Map

(Map pp72-3 ; pp72-3 (Map with stained glass,marble- withstained h %

Mp pp72-3; (Map lunch Mon-Sat,dinnerdaily) ‘croc pruneaux’ 02-502 3008;www.lequims.be; % % % h h 02-502 7251;www.resto 02-511 0078;www.tourdy 02-218 0034;www.bier noon-2pm &7-10.30pm café noon-1am) . % onPlacedu 02-512 9922; Lovely stuffed stuffed

tion area’s negative image, thisboldlystylish Attempting toreverse theBruxelles-Midi sta- of generous Belgo-French food. ous casualbistrooffering anextensive menu be worthleaving the for.station a coupleof diningoptionsnearbythatmight you have alongwaitforyourtrainthere are usual bars, bakeries andsnack-shacksbut if Within theBruxelles-Midi complexare the GARE DUMIDIAREA and lambknuckle. French raywings foodonyourplate, notably hind andputsreliable iflimited-choice Belgo- colour-splash artinside,agardenarea be- hasglobelanterns and 17th-century house &dinnerMon-Sat) Mon-Fri 3-course lunchmenu€18,4-coursedinner€28; .petits-oignons.be; 13;mains€18-25, RueNotre Seigneur ‘secret’ handkerchief of tree-shaded terrace. flickering rear candlesupsteep stairs tothe tive mealslike kangarooinfigsauce. Orfollow sciously battered forimagina- woodentables and splashedwithabstract art.Sitatcon- grey walls are patterned projections withlight €30; .cinabredegarance.com; Rue Haute198;mains€17-19,menu Aug; des Prêtres 4;mainsaround€16; featuring royalty. Belgian and countlessantiquesouvenir biscuittins The wallsare plastered withbottles,grinders two-storey inadelightful restaurant. served American, Italian and Belgo-Belgian eateries andBelgo-Belgian American, Italian Very inexpensive African,Pakistani, South MATONGE &ST-BONIFACE lie oneithersideif allyouwant’sa €1.60 beer. cheap, smokybars and Fridays(10pm).Several lounge, acigarbarandlive musicThursdays restaurant also offers anoyster bar,hipcocktail 26;mains€20-33; Horta tion.eu; PlVictor southeast exitisshort but gloomy. Thewalkfromthestation’s sible mid-evening. rather thanbarbequesauce. Queuesare pos- withfresh lemon bequed spare ribs)served classic forinexpensive this family-styleGreek eatery isanage-old its cheesy decorandunpromisinglocation, Claes 27;mains€4-10; Les Petits Oignons deGarance Cinabre Midi Station Midi BonCoeur Au Au Stekerlapatte Au h a noon-2pm &7-10.30pmTue-Sun; ) Behind agrungyfacadeliescavern-Behind (Map pp72-3; (Map

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6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun) Thiswisteria-draped % h petits os % 02-526 8800;www.midista dinner Tue-Sun, closedJul- 02-538 9669;RueJoesph % % % lonelyplanet.com h 02-512 4738;www 02-512 8681;Rue 02-502 1604;www a (short,bar- 7am-midnight) Redand ) Despite h lunch

BRUSSELS 101 lunch & This This h Périgord noon-7.30pm 02-538 1863; (strongly (strongly 02-511 5366; 02-511 5366; . A youthful h % 02-648 8041; www 02-513 1367; www % noon-2.30pm & 7- café % % h noon-2.30pm Mon-Fri & 02-647 5144; Rue du Bailli Competent if not Competent cassoulet, 02-647 0367; www.tsampa h % 02-649 8981; www.dolma.be; 02-649 8981; www.dolma.be; % andouillette (Map pp72-3 ;

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Vegetarian restaurant and and restaurant Vegetarian Monty Python-esque lamps Monty Python-esque lamps (off Map pp72-3 ;

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(Map pp72-3 ; noon-11pm Tue-Sun) Despite the imposing exterior and plush and plush the imposing exterior Despite 8.30am-1am Mon-Fri, Sat & Sun). 10am-1am Fin de Siècle Fin Dolma Le Hasard des Choses L’Ultime Atome h La Tsampa Saint-Boniface IXELLES & AVE LOUISE LOUISE IXELLES & AVE money. However, unlike most, the Dakar Dakar most, the However,money. unlike .be; Rue de Livourne 109; daily special €12; Mon-Fri, closed Aug) meals till of delicatessen with choice organic 7-10.30pm Sun-Fri) walls and a rough, bare-brick and tube vents, an unusual make backyard area tree-shaded for salads, delicious pastasvenue or shrimps (€14). curry coconut in green dinner) olde-worlde decor this delightful discovery Italian) (predominantly well-prepared offers sensible prices. A one- meals at remarkably costs only €7.95. Garden seating lunch plate in summer. jammed with framed pictures and authen- jammed with framed pictures and southwestern tic dishes from France’s notably Basque regions, duck, foie gras and an much tripe sausage – very flavoured acquired taste). Le Framboisier 35; eat in away or, in summer, to take ice cream the garden. Sorbets, including some made from house specialities. the Cantillon are beers, has a gentle semblance of style and even style a semblancegentle has a of seats to sip artistic lounge at which pair of your aperitif. .ultime-atome.com; €11-17; Rue St-Boniface 14; mains h brasserie has curious train-wheelcavernous panel- the pale wooden decor enlivening otherwise an classic ling of night things buzzing day and crowd keeps and out great-value turns the non-stop kitchen and tajines endives, meals including cheesy mussels (€17). rant, featuring gingham tablecloths, walls walls ginghamrant, featuring tablecloths, Rue St-Boniface 9; mains €15-22; Rue St-Boniface 9; mains €15-22; 10pm Mon-Fri). Chaussée d’Ixelles 329; Chaussée d’Ixelles .lafindesiecle.be; Ave Louise 423; mains €10-20; Ave .lafindesiecle.be; Rue du Page 31; mains €10-15; Rue du Page especially exotic vegetarian buffet servedespecially exotic vegetarian in a selec- The daily changing ambience. Tibetan their website. on tion is posted

frites ), ), boul- gésier gésier noon-2.30pm and h Numerous 02-512 6999; www.les 02-511 3331; Pl Fernand 02-511 3331; Pl Fernand poulet arachide a tangy lemon- 0498-989 500; http://resto % % % Generous portions of Generous portions of assa, (aka filet américain filet américain Adorable, organic-food Adorable, organic-food 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm

h mafe BRUSSELS •• Eating (St-Peters’ fish), curried (St-Peters’ (Map pp72-3 ; Galerie de la Porte de Namur; pp72-3 (Map (Map pp72-3 ;

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h tilapia carbonade, noon-1am Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am Sun) (meatballs), accompanied by perfect (meatballs), accompanied by perfect stoemp, h EATING AFRICAN AFRICAN EATING the compact in Congolese Many restaurants a selection of district offer of Matonge Common choices are dishes. African moambe, (fish or chicken), y flavoured chicken dish originally from from chicken dish originally flavoured Senegal and and barbequed goat. All (chicken gizzards) rice (some- to come accompanied with tend cassava-leaf times cassava) with optional chips. ‘spinach’ and deep-fried plantain an Africa-wide favourite with chicken in a with chicken in a favourite an Africa-wide peanut paste sauce made from palm oil, sauce Add hot-pepper and tomato purée. grilled Other typical options are to taste. whole Le Dakar Les Brassins Imagin’Air Tartine Zaline Senegalese favourites (see above ) for less ) for less above Senegalese (see favourites 13; places nearby servesame the Congolese and (or Belgian beers. of excellent range an well-priced Belgian classics home-cooked as such ettes pretentious brasserie with old is decorated pretentious and serves adverts enamel brewery reliable, & 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-1am Sat, noon-midnight Sun) this un- On a quiet, unpromising back-street, brassins.be; Rue Keyenveldbrassins.be; 36; mains €10-17; can be made to order for those on gluten-free, can be made to order for those on gluten-free, diets. vegetarian/vegan and lactose-free plants and bonsai-sized trees. Short, hand- Short, plants and bonsai-sized trees. and dishes frequently menus change written ‘Art Café’ with exposed and one of brick walls with decked patio terraces Brussels’ prettiest Cocq 6; mains €9-17; Sun, closed Wed in winter) away or microwaved to eat at a single row of to eat at a single row of away or microwaved simple stools. mains €5-7; to take African meals packed pre-prepared are located side-by-side along Rue Longue along Rue Longue side-by-side located are on Chaussée liberally scattered Vie and are one block southwest, Meanwhile de Wavre. decidedly trendier is an island of St-Boniface shops. coffee bistros and lonelyplanet.com ledakar.com; Chaussée de Wavre 134; beer €2, mains €10.50- Chaussée de Wavre ledakar.com; BRUSSELS Résistance 14;mains€14-26; isfying, cheap snackmeals.Forsomethingmore sat- Several sushi-master. temperamental cope withtheidiosyncrasiesof thenotoriously thentic Japanese restaurant whocan bythose Widely reckoned mostau- tobeBrussels’ Chaussée d’Ixelles 141; Wow. Wines from €26. soya.foie grassushi drizzledwithcaramelised asoursmenu starts did–withutterly divine plate. Hopethatyour Japanese fusionfoodworkswonders onyour around apatch of ‘zengarden’whileFrench- 6.30-10pm Mon-Sat) 5-course menu€30/39.50/49.50; 62;lunch€9,mains€20-25, .com; RueLesbroussart 3-/4-/ lingual andfood reliable.standards down uponotherdiners. Menus are multi- iscrampedbutoffersseating unusualviews an upmarket ironmonger’s shop. Upper-level interior datewrought-iron fromitsdaysas box-draws, gleamingcopperware andgreen Woodenthis uniquebrasserie-restaurant. clockdominate andstation-style stairway Mon-Sat, 7pm-midnightdaily) RueduPagecaillerie.be; 45;mains€19-35; pesto-flavoured mint andalmondcurryor,forvegetarians, tion insummer. Trythe shaded byoldtrees, addsfurthertotheattrac- rear whose updated terrace, 1883townhouse inanexpansive, fashionably cuisine served &7-10.30pmMon-Sat) Mon-Fri tomate.com; Ave Louise190;mains€18-29; close. till plates piesorset-dish 2.30pm, thensalads, 102 Anderlecht Yamayu Santatsu La Quincaillerie Rouge Tomate Chez Oki Chez Oki contender forthechipcrownis iron-fronted L’Autobus) allow and suchistheirpopularity that reputation as‘Brusselsbest’isself-perpetuating. topnotch ‘Best’or not,theirchipsare certainly Frying since1948, CHIP CHAMPS Handily central Fritland( p99 frying tilltheweehours.) keeps h RSES • rnig BRUSSELS ••Drinking 11.30am-1am Sun-Thu, &Sat) 11.30am-2amFri René café Mp pp72-3; (Map s aroundthemainsquare have

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(Gare du trains is the main is the , and, except for for , and, except Bruxelles-Central Bruxelles-Nord 5.30am-12.20am) . Information offices h (€3;

BRUSSELS •• Getting Around 02-555 2555. (South Station; Map pp72-3 ) pp72-3 Map(South Station;

The following fares (one-way second- The following fares 8pm at weekends slower route 21 is substi- 21 slower route 8pm at weekends aboard €3/4). It should take around 30 min- take aboard €3/4). It should After hour. at rush more but allow much utes minutes). Express-bus 12 links the airport 12 links the airport Express-bus minutes). via Nato HQ and to Bruxelles-Luxembourg (prepurchased/bought- Schuman Metro tions, Bruxelles-Nord (15 minutes), Bruxelles- (15 minutes), tions, Bruxelles-Nord Central (25 and Bruxelles-Midi minutes) (20 run four times hourly between Brussels run four times hourly between Brussels main train sta- Airport and the city’s three To/From the Airport To/From the Airport Express Airport City For other international train servicesFor other international see p298 . GETTING AROUND Antwerp 6.60 35-49 5 164 1 Amsterdam 36.60 1 35-49 59 2 Antwerp 6.60 62 Binche 8.60 2 Bruges 12.90 60 2 36 2 Charleroi 8.60 75 2 Ghent 8.10 1 4 69 Hasselt 11.70 24-36 60-80 Kortrijk 11.70 4.80 Leuven Liège 13.60 2 City Luxembourg 55 2 2 Mechelen 4 33.20 15-28 62 Mons 8.60 2 1 30 Namur 8.10 75 180 Nivelles 5.10 Ostend 15.40 2 Schiphol 1 61-73 (Amsterdam airport) 1 105 Tournai 11.70 16 Ypres 34.20 148 1 (€) (min) (per hr) (per (min) Frequency Duration Destination Fare (€) class) are for standard trains from Bruxelles- for standard trains from are class) Central: evening. www.b-rail For all enquiries consult .be or call Nord, North Station; Map pp68-9 ) pp68-9 Nord, North Station; Map stationsopen early morning to late at all three Centrale, Central Station; Map p70 ) p70 Station; MapCentrale, Central also at trains, Amsterdam (with prebooking compulsory) only stop here. here. compulsory) only stop (with prebooking suc- trains stop in quick Most other mainline at Bruxelles-Midi, cession station for international connections: the the connections: station international for Eurostar, TGV and Thalys high-speed trains Train Train Bruxelles-Midi lonelyplanet.com BRUSSELS information onroadrules, see p305 . platforms or inside buses andtrams.Ticketsplatforms orinsidebuses in machines located attheentrance tometro Children undersix travel free. TEC (Walloniabus) orSNCB/NMBS(rail). routes operated byDeLijn(Flanders bus), fares applyifyouwant toconnectcity are ‘jump’ buses higher excludedandslightly cost€4.20/9.20.Note thatairport day passes including transfers. Unlimited one-/three- STIB/MIVB tickets cost€1.60/7.30/11.20 andtrams.Single-/five-/10-journeyand onbuses STIB/MIVBmetro stations, kiosks,newsagents Tickets are validforonehourand are sold at TICKETS &PASSES from Place de Brouckère. to3am,moststarting hourly frommidnight night-bus routes (€3single)operate twice when17NoctisSaturday/Sunday nights, onlyexceptonFriday/Saturdayand it’s taxi afterruns fromabout 6am tomidnight, which 5.30pm Mon-Sat,8.30am-2pmSun) Mon-Sat); p70; (Map is operated by Brussels’ integrated bus-tram-metrosystem Transport Public Monday to Saturday). payant signs say .be) noons. toahaltespeciallyonFridayafter-traffic hiccuponeitherringroadbrings The slightest Car www.belgiumrollers.com). ofporary right way torollers from7pm(see major certain city streetsSeptember give tem- Juneto or rollerblades).OnFridayevenings road rulesfor‘rollers’ onrollerskates (those isperhaps uniqueinhaving special Belgium ROLLERSKATES way (foodanddrink costs extra). ride andthebeers and Place). Many first-time visitors love boththe fromtheHôteldeVille(Grand size 12)start proximately four-hour tours (maximumgroup h adult/studentinclbicyclerental €25/22;biketours.com; 112 Tickets must bevalidated, before travel, Street parkingrequires meter-payment when mapsreal-time congestion problems. For 10am Feb-Nov, 10am&3pmApr-Sep) RSES • etn rud Around BRUSSELS ••Getting (usually9amto1pmand2pm7pm Brussels-Mobilty Branch kiosk % betalend parkeren/stationnement 02-515 2000;Ruedel’Évêque2; STIB/MIVB (Map (Map pp72-3 duMidi; ; Gare (www.bruxellesmobilite.irisnet

frite (www.stib.be) . Publictransport -stops alongthe . Thelatter’s ap- h h Main kiosk 10am-6pm 7.30am-

you, should have theirfour-digit ID. taxi the receipt, which theymustlegally printfor artist François artist Schuiten. of thecomic-strips vehicles mergeinscenesmirroring Nord) and Brussels-Midi (GareNord) andBrussels-Midi duMidi) premetro port mapbefore goingtoofar. Underground central hubsograb afree STIB/MIVB trans- The vastwebof busandtramtransporthasno TRAM, &BUS PREMETRO Stockel deHal Porte Horta Bourse often artworkto Highlights: peruse. 10to15minutes.every Whileyouwaitthere’s pect London-stylefrequency: trainsonlyrun follows thePetit map Ring.See p75 . Don’tex- Schuman (fortheEUArea). Line2basically and Ste-Catherine stops atBruxelles-Central, share centralstretch thesame includinguseful southeast) and1B(nort on abluebackground.Lines1A(northwest– Metro are stations marked withawhite ‘M’ METRO andBrusselscards passes ( p76 ). checks are made. without validationincurfinesof €55.Random can report themtoll-free on fast drivingbutifyou’re you dissatisfied seriously haveCabbies areputation foraggressive, over- Bleus operatorsother ranksandtaxi including .irisnet.be/articles/taxi/ou-trouver-un-taxi lists on Ave Website Louise. www.bruxellesmobilite (Map p70 ) andatPlaceStéphanie(Map pp72–3 ) Hôtel Amigo(Map p70 ), neartheGrand Place wait nearthethree outside centraltrainstations, charges.nore requests Taxis forextra service included inthemeter pricesoyoushould ig- costs €25perhour. Taxes andtipsare officially 10pmand6am.Waiting supplement between region.within/outside theBrussels There’s a€2 €2.40 pick-upplus€1.35/2.70perkilometre (typicallyblackor white) taxis chargeOfficial Taxi Lemonier. Max/Anspach/Maurice knownconsecutively asAdolpheevard via theBourse, travelling beneaththeboul- integrated into the foyer. bruxellois Brussels International ( Brussels p76 one-day ) sells

( % (Map (Map pp72-3 duPeuple Maison fromHorta’s ) Relics (Map (Map p70 ) Paul Delvaux’ (Map (Map pp66-7 muralsofTintin) Life-sized andpals. depicts oldtramsinthe depicts capital. 02-268 0000) trams link Brussels-Nord (Gare tramslinkBrussels-Nord du (Map (Map pp72-3 ) Oldtramsandfuturistic and Taxis Verts Nos vieuxtrams heast–southwest) % lonelyplanet.com (

0800-94001 – 0800-94001 – % 02-349 4949) Taxis Taxis . BRUSSELS lies 113 02-260 0920; Kasteel van

% ( is a 93-hectare is a 93-hectare and shop. café 9.30am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5pm h

National Botanic Garden (www.grimbergen.be/toerisme/index.htm) 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr–mid-Nov, last admission Apr–mid-Nov, last 10am-6pm Tue-Sun (www.kasteelvangaasbeek.be; adult/senior/youth h , set in an extensive 17th-century park 17th-century , set in an extensive Of the 18,000 plant species, the park’s most De Lijn buses every 250/251 run 15 minutes from Bruxelles-Nord (35 minutes) via Metro via Metro (35 minutes) from Bruxelles-Nord (20 minutes). Bockstael Grimbergen Briefly its own principality (18th century), Grimbergen north of downtown Brussels. It’s based north of Kasteel and includes the around two lakes castle moated van Boechout, a photogenic Princess to his sister, that Léopold II gave burnt her own at Tervuren after Charlotte, in 1879. down carnivorous plants and famous prized orchids, housed in the lilies are giant Amazonian water a series of Palace), (Plant 1966 Plantenpaleis 13 connecting greenhouses. Other highlights and a small the outdoor medicinal garden are a king’s crown. 1864 greenhouse shaped like That was built in by Balat, Horta’s and teacher for the Serres Royales responsible the architect has been ). The 18th-century orangery p90 ( into a converted Gaasbeek was briefly home to Count Egmond Gaasbeekhome to Count Egmond was briefly ). p83 by the Spanish ( he was executed before The castle visible. era are each Elements of inside, romantically crenellated is furnished when viewed different outside and looks quite of angles – though the majority from different 1897 an extensive of is the result the structure bus 142 take By public transport renovation. Erasmus. Metro from NORTH BRUSSELS OF Nationale Plantentuin Van België Belgium’s www.botanicgarden.be; Domein van Boechout, Meise; adult/ concession €4/3; Nov-Mar, closing) last entry 1 hr before 12km Meise, of in the village park located transit. For the campsite, bus 154 from Halle is from Halle bus 154 For the campsite, transit. at ‘Windmolen’. alight convenient: more Gaasbeek castles within strik- the finest rural One of capital the ing distance is the of Gaasbeek €6/4/1; 5pm) central Brussels. Originally 14km southwest of built to guard the medieval Brabant–Flanders that angry Brusselsborder, this was the castle to the 1388 mur- folk burnt down in response ). In 1565, p63 ’t Serclaes (see Everard der of 10am- , site , site h is one (beer/kriek 02-359 1646; 02-359 1646; 02-331 0561; 02-331 0561; arboreta at at arboreta

, % % ( (

(Zoniënwoud in Dutch; (Zoniënwoud in

is a botanical ca- Café Camping , a very down-market down-market , a very , whose interesting his- , whose interesting Jean Massart Experimental forest Halle 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) AROUND BRUSSELS •• South of Brussels (Map pp66-7 ; www.rouge-cloitre.be) Beersel Camping h 8am-midnight) is the closest medieval castle to Kasteel van Beersel Kasteel van h (Map pp66-7 ; www.ulb.ac.be/musees/jmassart;

Around 1km west, the cramped, basic but

Rouge Cloître toric centre is worth a quick look while you’re in is worth a quick look while you’re toric centre side Beersel train station (west exit). Trains run thrice hourly from The castle is handily close the west Brussels to ‘Ring’ motorway (junction 19) and is right out- GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING & AWAY THERE €1.30/1.85; of the nearest year-round campgrounds to year-round the nearest of Brussels. Check-in at [email protected]; Steenweg op [email protected]; 75, Beersel; adult/tent/car/caravan/camper-van €3/2/1.50/3/5) inexpensive inexpensive 19th century. There’s an appealing half-19th century. There’s outside. restaurant-brasserie timbered However, it’s an empty shell, the building the building However, it’s an empty shell, been usedhaving as a cotton factory in the The picture-perfect brick towers, rebuilt in rebuilt brick towers, The picture-perfect with 17th-century roofs topped off 1498, are moat. a tree-ringed and rise proudly above ter, closed Jan) the capital. And from outside it’s a beauty. Lotsestraat; adult/concession/child €2.50/1.25/1.25; Mar–mid-Nov,noon & 2-6pm Tue-Sun Sat & Sun only in win- Beersel Beersel The 1310 at 14th-century abbey. a former of SOUTHWEST OF BRUSSELS Tervuren and Groenendaal an arts centre and Tervuren horse and walking paths. Tucked into the forest into the forest Tucked and walking paths. horse you’ll find the fringes Garden uncut. Today the result is a delightful regional is a delightful regional uncut. Today the result cycle, of kilometres of park with hundreds shipbuilders preferred metal, so the trees went metal, so the trees preferred shipbuilders Austrian rulers with oaks added by the French added by the French with oaks Austrian rulers ships. By naval timber for future to provide however, had matured, the time those trees thedral of glorious towering beech trees. Many Many trees. glorious towering beech thedral of by proto-Belgium’s planted 18th-century were This vast suburban vast suburban This ) pp66-7 www.zonienwoud.be; Map Forêt de Soignes Forêt de Soignes SOUTH OF BRUSSELS BRUSSELS SOUTH OF . p217 see For Waterloo, AROUND BRUSSELS BRUSSELS AROUND lonelyplanet.com admission free; admission free; bar that redeems itself slightlybar that redeems by serving ex- Boon Kriek. cellent draught BRUSSELS © © Lonely Planet. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. restricted. digitally not is chapter this to access use, to you for easier it make To Planet. Lonely © beer €2.50-3,snacks€4-11,mains€14-18; Tommenmolen choices are attwohistoricwatermill-pubs: Grimbergen brews butgreat, atmospheric town’s tempting pubsandrestaurants serve it’s opposite Anyof astylish brasserie). the thebigstonegate(turn leftthrough and ment only) little brewed industriallyinWaarloosbutthere’s a bust, goldenGoud8°.Thebeers are actually beers Grimbergen isbestknowntodayforitsabbey Jul-Aug &4.30-5.30pmSunEaster-Sep) played 8-9pmFri, interiors plusafine49-bell carillon mostbreathtaking baroque-rococo Belgium’s sincetruncatedAlthough itretains oneof which wasmajestically rebuilt after 1660. h is dominated bySint-Servaasbasiliek prettiest littlecentralsquare towns.Thesweet from theAtomium)andisoneof Brabant’s just 2kmnorthof ringroad,(6km Brussels’ 114 In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other other In only. purposes non-commercial personal, for it use to you ask to fair it’s think we return, In words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, know, you everyone to it email mass site, peer-to-peer a to chapter this upload don’t please words, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the the ‘Do - above the saying of way longer a for site our on conditions and terms the See it. resell or right thing with our content.’ our with thing right

L o 9am-6pm) n e AROUND BRUSSELS •• North ofBrussels AROUND BRUSSELS••North beer museum l (www.grimbergenbier.be) y

P tucked intotheformerabbey grounds l a n e , Grimbergen’s 1128abbey-church, t ( % 02-269 7084;Tommenmolenstraat18; (Abdijstraat20; , especiallythero- h h by pre-arrange- (admissionfree; noon-9.30pm ( h bells . % (€5,onehour)butprebookde Humbeek on Quai canal boatconnectionto/fromBrussels summer TuesdaysandThursdays there’s a Metroto Brussels’ (25minutes). Bockstael On educational. are thetoiletschild-activity andeven stations years of washingmachines’, there are lotsof displays‘150 in thegrounds.Themuseum moated towerof which remains are visible the Merode aruined (Prinsenkasteel), Castle centre of inthegrand,arcadedformerstables 20; mainbuilding, museum’s are linked byappealingwalkingpaths. The 8111; www.mot.be;adult/child€3/1) the family-friendly museum end afternoons andtechnically formpartof tional craftdemonstrationsonsummerweek- h Fri-Tue) within 800mof thesquare. Bothoffer tradi- Half-hourly buses 230/232linkGrimbergen buses Half-hourly h noon-9pm Wed-Sun) 02-218 5410 (see 02-218 5410(see www.bateaubus.be). andLiermolen 9am-5pm daily) , islocated 1kmsouthof . Bothare signposted and ( % 02-269 7690;Vorststraat8;

, whose three, whose sites Guldenhal het mot lonelyplanet.com ( (Guldenhal % 02-270