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Home , Carlo Servolini, Collesalvetti, Gregale, Guasticce, Guglielmo Micheli, Leveche

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Experiencing the water lands

Livorno, Island and between history, culture and tradition

www.livornoexperience.com Experience Experiencing the water lands

S E A R C H A N D S H A R E #livornoexperience

livornoexperience.com

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH S E A R C H A N D S H A R E #livornoexperience Information

livornoexperience.com TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES

LIVORNO CAPRAIA ISLAND COLLESALVETTI INDICE Via , 18 Via Assunzione, Porto Sportello Unico per le Attività Ph. +39 0586 894236 (next to la Salata) Produttive e Turismo EXPERIENCING THE WATER LANDS PAG. 5 infotur@.livorno.it Ph. +39 347 7714601 Piazza della Repubblica, 32 3 TRAVEL REASONS PAG. 8 www.turismo.li [email protected] Ph. +39 0586 980213 www.visitcapraia.it [email protected] LIVORNO PAG.10 www.comune.collesalvetti.li.it CAPRAIA ISLAND PAG. 30 COLLESALVETTI PAG. 42 EVENTS PAG. 50 HOW TO GET THERE

BY CAR BY BUS Coming from , you can take the A1 From Livorno Central Station, the main lines motorway, reaching , and then take the leave to reach the centre, “Lam Blu” which A15 motorway towards La Spezia and then the crosses the city centre and seafront, “Lam A12 towards Livorno, while from you take Rossa” which crosses the city centre and arrives the A12 motorway, the section which connects at the hamlets of Montenero and Antignano. Rome to Civitavecchia, and then continue The urban Line 12 connects the city centre of along the Aurelia, now called E80, up to Livorno. Livorno to the Benedetta Valley and Colognole. Coming from you have to take the The extra-urban Line 104 connects Livorno with Florence--Livorno (FI-PI-LI) highway, while Collesalvetti. The extra-urban Line 105 connects Credits coming from the A1 highway to Livorno with and Colognole. Please visit Guida dell’Ambito turistico Florence-Signa and then the highway (FI-PI-LI) the website for further information (lines and Livorno, Isola di Capraia, Collesalvetti that connects Florence to Livorno via Pisa. timetables) www.cttnord.it (in Italian only)

Graphic design and layout Raffaele Commone/Meteora Adv BY PLANE BY BOAT The Livorno territorial scope, like , is The is one of the main ports of Texts mainly served by the national and international call in . There are daily direct ferry routes Federica Falchini, Valentina La Salvia, Giaele Mulinari (. Itinera) lines of the airports of Pisa and Florence. Please between Livorno and the Island of Capraia. You visit the web site for further information can also reach the islands of Sicily, and Editorial coordination https://www.toscana-aeroporti.com/en/ . Please visit the websites for further Laura Giuliano (Coop. Itinera) information (routes and timetables): https://www.toremar.it/en/ Photo credits (Livorno, Capraia Island, Island) Archives of the Municipalities of the Tourist Area BY TRAIN https://www.mobylines.com/ Livorno is located on the Rome-Genoa line and (Sardinia, Corsica) Archive of the National Park is frequently connected for both directions. https://www.grimaldi-lines.com/en/ Amaranta Service, GH Palazzo Livorno From Florence it can be reached by direct (Sardinia, Sicily) Archivio Tenuta Bellavista Insuese trains. Please visit the website for further https://www.corsica-ferries.co.uk/ Andrea Corsaro, Marta Chirici, Francesca Geppetti, Alessandro Giannaccini, information (routes and timetables): (Corsica, Sardinia) Fabio Guidi, Francesco Levy, Fabrizio Scotti. https://www.trenitalia.com/en.html 3 Experiencing the water lands Livorno, Capraia Island and Collesalvetti between history, culture and tradition

Livorno, Capraia Island and Collesalvetti between history, culture and tra- dition. A “red thread” links the destinies of the territories of Livorno, Capraia Island and Collesalvetti: water. The water that bathes the coasts of Livorno, a city built by the Medici in the heart of the Mediterranean, the sea that once was the centre of empires and civilizations with a great history. Livorno is a port from which over the centuries people come and go, meet, trade, communicate. In Livorno you Capraia Island speak through the sound of the waves and the meeting of peoples can still be read today in the numerous traces of history, culture, architecture, Livorno art, cuisine. It is the water, the sea, always the Mediterranean, the primary route of communication, which links the island of Capraia with Livorno. Collesalvetti An authentic pearl of the Tuscan Archipelago, inclusive and welcoming, open to those seeking ideals and experiences of social, cultural and envi- ronmental sustainability. A privileged place to immerse yourself in a still uncontaminated nature. It is still the water that leads to the lands of Collesalvetti, along the path of the Acquedotto Leopoldino which dominates the ancient paths of villages lying on the hills of lush Mediterranean scrub. Wheat, vines, olive trees: the plants at the base of Mediterranean civiliza- tion, here give rise to the recovery of ancient agricultural and artisan tra- ditions, restoring flavours, sensations and food and wine experiences lost over time. “Immersing yourself” in the “ water lands “ will give each visitor the certainty of living a unique experience for its beauty and complexity.

EXPERIENCING THE WATER LANDS

4 5 6 7 Livorno Capraia Island Collesalvetti

A trip to Livorno, the bluest city in Solid and fragile at the same time, It is the countryside behind Tuscany, a land that has made the sea the island is the ideal destination the city to the , a territory its main resource by telling its story. for the sustainable traveller, that still preserves the The sea and its light are in the eyes of attentive and sensitive to seeking memory of its past rich in the people, in the traditional dishes, in the most authentic beauty in ancient rural traditions. This the colours of the navigable that nature and in the sea. Feeling area of green hills, dotted cross the characteristic district of . an integral part of this free and with vineyards and cultivated Here “infinity blue” is appreciated in a genuine community will not be fields, is the ideal place to walk along the seafront at sunset, in a difficult experience: just strip disconnect and regenerate the comfort of a beach resort, on the yourself of formalities, conditioning in nature, along itineraries in colourful surfboards dragged by the and pre-established rules and ... let the shade of the woods and between the waves and in the crystalline yourself go. on the banks of the Contessa depths along the coast. Oasis.

3 Travel reasons 1 2 3

Welcome to the lands of The scents of the sea arrive on the Capraia is an overseas, pelagic and The scents of the sea arrive on the Livorno, washed by the waves cliffs of Livorno to penetrate into the wild island, where the smell of the sea cliffs of Livorno to penetrate into the of the Tyrrhenian Sea and thickest green of the Mediterranean mixes with the scent of helichrysum thickest green of the Mediterranean beaten by the hot and scrub, between holm oaks and brooms, italicum and myrtle. Place of escape, scrub, between holm oaks and that lap the until getting lost in the high hills that refuge and lair, off the beaten track. brooms, until getting lost in the coasts and envelop the green surround the city. high hills that surround the city. hills and islands of the Tuscan Archipelago with warm puffs.

8 9 LIVORNO EXPERIENCE VIVERE LE TERRE D’ACQUA LIVORNO ISOLA DI CAPRAIA COLLESALVETTI The bluest city in Tuscany

Ideal city, wanted by the first Grand Dukes of Tuscany, designed in perfection of a pentagon, Livorno is like a jewel set Statue of the Quattro Mori between the green of the hills and the open sea. The sea that from the coast streets and streams that lap the historic seems to never end, bringing here buildings, which are called “Fossi” here, peoples and traditions from distant lands. with cellars on the water, which have All welcome guests, they arrived with become clubs and restaurants where different desires and destinies, invited you can rediscover dishes typical of the in 1591 by Grand Duke Ferdinando I “Labronica” (Leghorn) tradition. Livorno de’ Medici, that with the revolutionary is the youngest city of Tuscany with a Livornine laws, called “people” from all large industrial, commercial and tourist over the world to give life to a new city, port, with a tradition that dates back to a refuge of peace, work and prosperity. the 17th century, when it was one of the The , who were not relegated to largest landings in the Mediterranean the ghetto, lived and worked side by Sea with its emporiums, rich in precious Livorno side with Greek sailors, Armenian and materials. Its longest way is the seafront, Turkish merchants, British and French 7 km from the port area to the village commanders. Founded in 1590 Livorno of Antignano. To be covered on foot, by is a city par excellence; its bike, by car, the waterfront collects the “But look around you streets are straight, wide and airy, the identity of this city by concentrating the [and see] which gifts you’ve been given: light never fails and there is always the essence of the “beauty” of Livorno in For you, they invented the sea eh! You smell of brackish in the air. Ferdinando I this stretch of coast. History, culture and himself made it a safe land, free from the tradition flow in the eyes of the visitor say: “I have nothing” attacks of Moorish piracy. Today his marble between the façades of 19th-century Do the sun seems nothing to you! effigy is still there to testify it, at the port buildings, historic beach resorts, such Life, love, Wonderful”. entrance, in the magnificent sculptural as the ancient “Scoglio della Regina”, up group of the Quattro Mori by Maestro to the splendid Mascagni Terrace, with . its privileged view, opening up to the Domenico Modugno, Meraviglioso The old town centre is a beating heart of islands of the Tuscan Archipelago.

ALTITUDE SURFACE INHABITANTS DENSITY 3 m a.s.l. 104,5 km² 156.299 1.495,68 inhabitants/km² PATRON Santa Giulia May 22nd

TOURIST INFORMACION OFFICES Via Alessandro Pieroni, 18/20 Ph. +39 0586 894236 [email protected] www.turismo.li

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come an unforgettable experi- ence. From the hills to the sea there are itineraries tailored to runners, cyclists and hikers, of- fering a stunning view over the Calafuria cliff and the tip of the promontory. In the centre of the city it is worth taking a relaxing stroll Viale Italia through the large parks, full of centuries-old trees, where “Livorno, when she passed by, beautiful 19th-century histor- she smelled of air and boats. ic residences remain as testi- What a desire to work was born mony of a glorious past. when she swayed!” Fabbricotti, Villa Mimbelli, Villa Henderson, former residences of wealthy merchants, are now museums and green areas of the city. Castel Boccale

Travel Notes Maybe because the port was born to pause for a delicious break based first and then the city, Livorno prom- on seafood at the kiosks of the port to ises all the experiences that the sea satisfy the palate and then return to Villa Fabbricotti can offer. In summer, the beach the promenade along the avenues, Fortezza Nuova resorts, which can also be reached lulled by the sea breezes, observing on foot, offer services for a holiday the flight of the seagulls. Mostly flat dedicated to disconnection and re- and with an excellent climate, Li- laxation, while along the coast wa- vorno is the ideal place for outdoor ter sports rules. Surfing, snorkelling, lovers for whom it is very easy to sup and underwater fishing are the practice outdoor activities on the activities that animate the Livorno beautiful seafront at all hours of the coast along the Romito cliff over- day. On the nearby hills, close to the looking the sea. It is always pleasant Romito cliff, the trekking routes be-

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The two ancient Fortresses of Livorno

What remains of the ancient adven- “Nuova” built a century later to fulfil turous life of this city is the Fortezza the same military and civil uses; it is Vecchia in the Medici port, an ancient located in the heart of the historic building, immersed in district of Venezia Nuova. Today, the the sea, surrounded by pleasure and Fortezza Nuova is a splendid green fishing boats. setting, where events and happen- Its presence has defended entire ings are organized. The large base- generations of citizens who took ments house the famous “gozzi”: Not to be refuge here in case of pirate attacks the rowing boats belonging to the and wars. Its circular and the different city districts, that compete red colour of the bricks are the first for the water challenge of the rowing missed welcome for those arriving from the races summer show, an unmissable sea. At the beginning of the good appointment, awaited all year round The Mascagni Terrace The Livorno Aquarium season, this imposing fortress hosts both by the Leghorns and tourists, It is the place where the word concerts, meetings and events. Then who appreciate its cultural and tradi- If you are in the mood of light and “immersing yourself” means to there is another Fortress, called the tional value. elegance, air and blue, the Mascag- explore, observe, marvel and get to ni Terrace is a must. Since 1925, the know about the “Mare Nostrum”. year of its construction, the thir- Here, just a few steps from the ty-five thousand black and white Mascagni Terrace, in a suggestive tiles that compose it, make it like and spectacular environment, a carpet, with a sinuous profile, an highly engaging and interactive, Fortezza Vecchia open-air living room between the it is possible to discover more than city and the sea. 3000 specimens of 400 different One of the bastions of the Old For Livorno citizens there is always marine species. A magical place Fortress is called “Ampolletta” a good reason to come here for a where nature takes on the guise of in memory of the hourglass that walk and experience an intimate beauty and fun. regulated the duty of the soldiers moment with the sea. Following who guarded the sea. the avenue, the elegant Gazebo opens up, an original classic con- Fortezza Nuova struction, which has now become There are several legends about a privileged photographic setting. tunnels and underpasses between Beyond the Terrace, towards the the Fortezza Nuova and the adjacent , there are the historic beach district; it is said that they were built in resorts, shacks, palaces and the im- INFORMATION the 17th century to allow an escape in posing Naval Academy up to the THE LIVORNO AQUARIUM case of attack. Rotonda pinewood; a small green P.zza Mascagni, 1 oasis with trees bent by the force of Ph. +39 0586 269111 www.acquariodilivorno.it the sea winds.

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Central Market When it was built by its architect Angelo Badaloni, in the last years of the 19th centu- ry, the “Mercato delle Vettovaglie” was one of the largest in , built with the most Venezia avant-garde materials of the time: iron, cast iron and glass, to make up what the Livorno District people called the “little Louvre”. Its magnifi- Conceived just like the Venetian cence and the floral style of the metal truss- lagoon city, this part of the city is es frame the friendly voices of the merchants, today considered the true histori- ready to guarantee the exclusivity of their cal heart of Livorno. A neighbour- products. The first fruits of the sea can be hood, a city within a city which bought among the marble counters in the Sa- is then a real island crossed by lone del Pesce, where you can find the catch bridges and canals, a unique and of the day at a good price, raw material for the original place that seems to be preparation of local dishes. Visiting the Livorno designed by the inspiration of a market is a sensory experience: colours, scents painter. The district still reveals and sounds mix, creating a unique and original its original structure and all its emotion that stimulates the palate to taste the charm intact. The tall mansions savoury “roschette” (like a cracker formed into had direct access to the , rings) of the Jewish tradition, the very white just below street level, to facili- eggs of the “Leghorn hen”, samples of cacci- tate the entry of goods directly ucco (sort of fish soup) and the typical “ponce into the internal courtyard. On alla livornese” (sort of hot alcoholic drink). Salone del Pesce the docks, tobacco, spices, choc- olate, coffee, indigo, Greek mas- HUIGENS PALACE tic and even diamonds were un- A typical example of a merchant res- loaded. The sea enters between idence, Palazzo Huigens, along Via the buildings and streets, form- Borra in the Venezia district, is one of ing navigable canals that sur- the most representative historic build- round the pentagonal perimeter ings in Livorno. It was built in 1706 by of the historic city. the wealthy Cologne merchant Odoar- do Brassart, and later bought by the merchant Antonio Huigens, who left his name to the residence. It is worth a visit for the beauty of its architecture which has been preserved unchanged over time, with its characteristic clois- ter and its three-level structure typical of the commercial buildings of the time, equipped with warehouses and cellars directly overlooking the canal.

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Amedeo Modigliani Birthplace

For those visiting Livorno, the house where this world-famous artist was born and lived, is a must. The apartment is located in the city centre, on the first floor of the building in Via Roma n. 38. Here on July 12th, City 1884, was born, Dedo for the citizens of Livorno, who lived with his large family and Museums always under the Livorno sun began his artistic training. The apartment, Amedeo Modigliani Birthplace The brand-new Livorno City Muse- take advantage of the rich free port which has kept its original structure, um and the Biblioteca Labronica of Livorno. A small Moorish room houses an exhibition of photographs, are housed in the same old building on the ground floor, the smoking documents and reproductions of as the Bottini dell’Olio in the Vene- room, recalls the fairy-tale architec- paintings, evoking life, personality zia district. Past, present and future ture of the Alhambra in Granada. and art of the great Dedo. live again today in the 18th-century Noteworthy is the staircase deco- structure, formerly used as a ware- rated with glazed ceramic cherubs house for storing oil. and a large hall with mirrors that Yeshivà Marini Museum Students and scholars alternate evokes the precious splendour of in the large rooms of the modern a bygone era. Not far from the Fat- Not far from the city centre, along Via library on the first floor, while on tori Museum, the Mediterranean Micali, it is the Yeshivà Marini Jewish Museum with its precious collections the ground floor a large exhibition Museum of Natural History, locat- of coral jewellery, prayer books and wing hosts important temporary ed in the historic Villa Henderson, ancient wedding dresses. exhibitions in a continuous cycle. is worth a visit. In an evocative itin- The museum bears witness to the Works by Schifano, Vedova, Manzo- erary accessible to all, it is possible strong presence of Sephardic Jews, ni are on permanent display in the to retrace the evolution of the hu- who had asylum here in a tolerant section dedicated to Contemporary man species through the encoun- environment. Art in the gilded, romantic and ba- ter with the Neanderthal man, the roque spaces of the deconsecrated rock paintings of the Lascaux caves, church, the Chiesa del Luogo Pio. reproduced in copies, and the im- INFORMATION MEDITERRANEAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY The one dedicated to Giovanni Fat- posing skeleton of the whale Annie, LIVORNO CITY MUSEUM Via Roma, 234 tori is another unmissable city mu- absolute protagonist of the Whale P.zza del Luogo Pio Ph. +39 0586 266711 seum, which is located in the splen- Room. Ph. +39 0586 824551 www.musmed.provincia.livorno.it www.museodellacitta.comune.livorno.it did setting of Villa Mimbelli, a few AMEDEO MODIGLIANI BIRTHPLACE steps from the Mascagni Terrace. Mediterranean Museum of Natural History FATTORI MUSEUM Via Roma, 38 The painting finds its Via S. Jacopo in Acquaviva, 65 Ph. +39 320 8887044 Ph. +39 0586 808001 www.casanatalemodigliani.it home in this 19th-century villa, www.museofattori.livorno.it commissioned by the Dalmatian YESHIVÀ MARINI MUSEUM merchant Francesco Mimbelli, who Via Micali, 21 Ph. +39 0586 839772 - 320 8887044 built the villa and the park to better

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“If I were a Leghorn, one of the The Goldoni Theatre real ones who say “dé” and speak Strolling through the historic heart new civil buildings. Hence the con- with open hands, moving their of the city, between 19th-century struction of a new and extraordinary fingers, as if to show that there is no cheating in their words, I would palaces and modern profiles, Piazza theatre, so as to surpass the others like to live in some of the houses of Goldoni makes its way: little more already existing in the city, which the Scalo della Venezia district “. than an open space where the will be built, from 1843 to 1847, by beautiful neoclassical-style façade the young architect Giuseppe Cap- Itineraries Curzio Malaparte, of the Goldoni theatre stands out. pellini. The name of the theatre un- Maledetti Toscani. In the 19th century, in the middle of derlines the strong link between the to experience the Lorraine period, the city is now city and , who set the an established centre as a sum- trilogy of “Le smanie per la villeggia- mer resort and one of the main tura” in Livorno. In 1921, the theatre “Fossi” Tour ports in the . The hosted the Congress of the Socialist growth of the mercantile bourgeoi- Party from which the Italian Com- It is an unmissable experience for those who sie makes it necessary to develop munist Party was born. want to get to know Livorno from an unu- sual and evocative perspective. Comfortably transported by a boat, you travel slowly into the historic heart, navigating through the canals, passing under the bridges, delighted by the ochre and pinks of the ancient noble palaces of this district, very similar to certain Domenicani, a former convent, glimpses of Venice. The canals curve sinuous- later transformed into a prison ly between the profiles of the palaces passing where well-known anti-fascists under the bridges, through the stairways that such as Sandro Pertini and Ilio give access to the cellars on the water, where Baronti were imprisoned. Lulled the ancient seafaring tradition is still visible by the sound of water, the spec- on fishermen’s faces, intent on repairing their tacle of the city opens up to the nets. picturesque San Marco Pontino Important churches and palaces make a fine district, where the palaces and show of themselves during the boat trip, such cellars stand out for the vivacity as the octagonal dome of the Church of Santa of colours reminiscent of the old Caterina, which houses the precious 16th cen- seaside villages. The emotion tury Coronation of the Virgin by Giorgio Vasa- is strong when the boat disap- ri. Adjacent to the church, it is the Palazzo dei pears into the darkness of the long of Piazza della Repub- Ponte dei Domenicani, Venezia District blica, known as the “Voltone”, the largest square-bridge in Eu- rope with its 215 meters in width. It was built in 1838, to connect the ancient part of the city with the more modern one that was being born.

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votion. The legend of Santa Giulia On the trail The patron saint of the city could only come from the sea and have the beautiful features of a foreign girl. of the most According to legend, Giulia, a young Carthaginian girl, was captured during a trip to Corsica, forced cosmopolitan to repudiate the Christian faith and to suffer the martyrdom that will lead her to holiness. The feast city in Europe of Santa Giulia is celebrated on May 22nd, the day of her martyrdom. The foreign traveller can always find something of their own The path of Santa Giulia Livorno is one of the 25 stages of this evocative homeland in Livorno: a tradition, itinerary that from Tuscany arrives in Lombardy, a character, a church, an ancient through Emilia, connecting historical and religious cemetery, even smells and colours. places dedicated to the devotion of Santa Giulia. Via della Madonna, perpendicular From the sea to the mountains passing through the to the main artery of the centre, plains, the journey is an experience of great spiritual, historical and naturalistic environmental value. contains, like a casket, churches Church of the Greci Uniti Church of Santa Giulia and altars of the ancient foreign communities present in the city Grande. Annexed to the church are the since the . A few steps away Oratory of San Ranieri and the Museum from each other are the Church of Santa Giulia, where sacred furnishings Montenero of the Greci Uniti, the Church of and a board of the Giotto school depict- the Madonna with its altars, which ing the homonymous saint are preserved. This area, frequented in past centuries A “dark” place, dense with come from foreign Nations, and Not far away, towards the Medici harbour by the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, by visit- woods and centuries-old trees, in the façade from the Ar- is the Church of San Giovanni which pre- ing monarchs and by intellectuals and ancient times it was considered menian Nation. serves, almost hidden by the richness of artists of the past, is today a delightful vil- unsafe, perhaps the home of In a few minutes, beyond the mar- a Baroque altar, a sculpture of the Black lage surrounded by greenery. Its elegant brigands and bandits. From here the toponym Montenero seems to ket area, you arrive at a large and Madonna, a rare and unique object of de- historic frame the Sanctuary of the come from. modern Synagogue, with a decid- Sinagoga Madonna di Montenero which has always edly unique architecture that sym- been a destination for religious pilgrim- bolizes the large tent that housed age in all seasons of the year. The ex-vo- the Ark of the Covenant. The Syn- tos, the sumptuous Baroque furnishings, agogue is located in the same the polychrome richness of the marbles block as the 17th-century Duomo, inside the Sanctuary make it a must for confirming how much the Jewish art lovers too. An unmissable experience community was held in great es- is the journey with the characteristic fu- teem by all citizens. Another visit nicular, recently modernized, which of- not to be missed is the Church of fers a suggestive ascent from the Piaz- Santa Giulia, consecrated to the za di Montenero to the top of the hill. A patron saint of the city, whose story “dark” place, dense with woods and cen- is linked to the history of the Med- turies-old trees, in ancient times it was iterranean Sea. The small place of considered unsafe, perhaps the home of worship stands next to the Duo- brigands and bandits. From here the to- mo, a short distance from Piazza ponym Montenero seems to come from. Sanctuary of the Montenero

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5&5 Only 5 cents of cake (of chickpeas) and 5 of bread were needed for a delicious and fragrant “meal”. Legend has it that it was during a storm that the sea water mixed with the Livorno barrels of chickpea flour along with some jars of oil on board. The on the plate weather and the warmth of the sun worked the miracle.

Perhaps it is only in the culinary aspect that a focaccia bread or “French PONCE Livorno could resemble other Tuscan , pan”. There are numerous It is a very hot blend of coffee, meaning food as an authentic pleasure and cake makers that guaran- rum or “sassolino” liqueur in a way of life. But it is the fish-based products tee this delicacy to be con- the proportion of half for each and dishes that make the difference: from sumed at any time of the ingredient in a low, wide glass the most elaborate to small tastings suitable day standing up or walking with a thick base so as not to for street food, now loved and known out- through the streets of the burn your fingers. Sugar and side the city. Our gastronomic itinerary starts city. lemon peel (triangularly cut) are early in the morning in the Darsena Vecchia, In the evening the whole added for an excellent “sailing where the fishing boats dock. city shines with bars and punch”, the same one that On marble counters, the freshest fish awaits restaurants renowned for warmed the fishermen who were the most astute buyers to negotiate the best their typicality, imagination chilled by the and price. Not far away, around the Fortezza Vec- and variety of proposals. Af- winds. chia, fishmongers-restaurants and small ki- ter dinner, there is nothing osks are close at hand to buy seafood, steak better than a fine “ponce CACCIUCCO fish but also gluten free proposals. From the alla livornese”, a hot drink The one with 5C is the flagship of port, along Via Grande, in a short time you based on coffee and “rum” the Livorno gastronomic tradition. will arrive at the open-air market in Piazza so dear to the people of It is an ancient dish based on Cavalotti, a lively and colourful place, full of Leghorn, whose history is various fish, those that remained Leghorn food, where you can buy fruit and intertwined with the mari- unsold in the fishermen’s baskets fresh vegetables. A short distance away is time traditions of the city. and that were “recycled” for a the Covered Market, a place full of charm and For lovers of authentic fla- red coloured dish, prepared with tradition. In addition to raw materials, there vours, a fish-based dinner tomatoes and “garlic-rubbed” are many food points for a delicious brunch, is worthwhile, along the bread. For the authentic recipe snack or a real typical lunch based on “cacci- Romito cliff with a breath- to be successful, the ingredients ucco”, the Livorno dish of excellence. Cooked taking view and alternative- must be combined “artfully”, according to tradition, it can be tasted ac- ly, you can enjoy excellent according to a precise order, companied by a good glass of wine. The game and good Tuscan molluscs, crustaceans and half- other gastronomic specialty is called “5 and wine on the hills of Castel- sized fish with bones. 5”, made up of a boiling chickpea cake just laccio and the Benedetta released from the wood oven and served in Valley.

24 25 LIVORNO EXPERIENCE VIVERE LE TERRE D’ACQUA LIVORNO ISOLA DI CAPRAIA COLLESALVETTI From the hills to the sea The beauty of the Monti still wild, stretches of Mediterranean Livornesi Park lies in the scrub along the Chioma Valley up to rapid passage between the the sea. different ecosystems, from the Walking on this path in spring or Mediterranean scrub to the summer it is a true sensory experience, forest and it naturally comes where the scents of wild plants mix Green up to the coasts. with the brackish air that you breathe From the locality Le Palazzine as you get closer to the sea. Here, it will Experiences in the village of there not be possible to give up a dive in the are walkways that allow you to fresh and crystalline water of the Gulf The belt of the Livorno hills that Hermitage. On the opposite side, travel through areas that are of . surrounds the city offers for trek- we discover a jewel such as the king lovers a wide range of propos- Leopoldine Aqueduct of Colognole, als with its rich network of paths. a work of water architecture that is In the Park area, you can explore worth a visit. From the gentle hills places such as the Benedetta Val- it is easy to reach the coast through ley, with its incredible forest and itineraries that show breathtaking its paths that lead to the Sambuca scenarios.

Quercianella, The sacred forests of a small jewel by The Canyon of Calignaia the Valle Bendetta the sea Starting from the locality of Castellac- cio, immersed in the green hills, you A few steps from the city there is A few kilometres from the city of can reach the cliff of Calignaia. Through a place of peace, protected over Livorno, Quercianella rises above scrubland vegetation, the downhill the centuries by an intricate wood, the sea, a pretty town surrounded path leaves behind a dense forest and known as the Eremo della Sambu- by pine forests and the scents quickly leads to the Romito road, in the ca dating back to the 13th centu- of brackish. Its crystalline sea, Calafuria nature reserve, rich in natural- ry. What remains of the structure awarded with the Blue Flag, istic features and historical memories. suddenly appears, at a bend in the breaks on a coast made of rocks, From here opens up the characteristic path, a place that seems straight pebble beaches and coves hidden Canyon of Calignaia, a unique experi- out of a fairy tale and that gives an in the greenery. The seabed is ence, in an incredible natural environ- immediate feeling of peace. Here perfect for fans of scuba diving, ment, created by the interaction be- the Ugione stream flows silently surfing and snorkelling. tween water and rock. along its path and with its gurgling, From these reddish rock ridges, you can it still seems to accompany the an- enjoy a splendid view of the islands of cient prayers of the friars. the Tuscan Archipelago.

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Gorgona Island Livorno, Livorno was the If you want to discover A legend says that the little Jerusalem European coral capital the fish that cannot the Monument of the Inhabited by the Etruscans who in the 18th century. miss in the cacciucco Quattro Mori by Pietro founded it with the name of Ur- This how Livorno is still remembered by Huge quantities of go to the end of Via Tacca can bring luck gon, it is the smallest island in the descendants of ancient Sephardi liturgical jewels were Grande, towards the if you can observe the Tuscan Archipelago. Every families who lived here in past centuries. exported all over port, and you will find the four noses of traveller, who loves to immerse A safe and prosperous refuge for many the world, rosaries them sculpted on the Quattro Mori at himself in the silence of an un- Spanish and Portuguese Jews, Livorno in to Europe, Islamic copies of the bronze a single glance. All contaminated nature and a the early 1600s already had a synagogue Misbaha to the Middle fountains “Mostri this is possible by crystalline sea, dreams to visit as grandiose as the one in Amsterdam. East and Buddhist Marini” by Pietro observing them from it. This is the heart of the Inter- The city and the port grew together malas to the East. Tacca. a single point of view. national Cetacean Sanctuary. with the Sephardi community, in the Part of the island housed a pe- exceptionality of an absent and never nal colony which guarantees, planned ghetto, with the coral trade and thanks to the precious work of with the first large print shops for book The ancestors of The Bollo is the bread The great artist the inmates, the conservation in Hebrew characters which reached the current beach served with quince Amedeo Modigliani and protection of nature, the as far as and Yemen. The strength resorts were the so- jam on the occasion loved the good food development of cultivation and and importance of this community called “bagnetti” at of the end of Kippur, of his Livorno and breeding up to tourist accom- are evident in the Jewish places, today the end of the 18th the Jewish religious in particular the modation, in a logic of promo- visiting destinations and of cultural century: frequented holiday. “roschette” and the tion of sustainable tourism. attraction such as the new Synagogue, by noblewomen, typical “5 and 5” of the the active centre of the contemporary aristocracy and gastronomic tradition. community where all the feasts of the crowned heads. They Jewish calendar take place and the were small buildings ancient cemeteries where the great inside which many rabbis Koriat, Benamozegh, Israel Costa tubs channelled and the best-known Kabbalists were directly into the buried. sea conveying salt In the centre of the city, a small but water and algae, precious museum is worth a visit, the curative for the body. Yeshivà Marini, where jewels and small A practice that has coral objects for religious use, ancient become modern damask wedding dresses and a precious thalassotherapy over library with ancient books of the Jewish time. school are kept. The Jewish identity of Livorno lives on in the flavours and aromas of the cuisine; from mullet “alla mosaica”, to the spun eggs introduced by the Portuguese Jews, up to the imported by the Levantine Jews and renamed by the Leghorns: Do you know that... “Cuscussù”.

28 29 LIVORNO EXPERIENCE VIVERE LE TERRE D’ACQUA LIVORNO ISOLA DI CAPRAIA COLLESALVETTI The uncontaminated rock in the middle of the sea

An island guards and protects, ve all the means to achieve happi- even when the wind blows hard ness. For its inhabitants, the wind and winter seems far to end, be- rose, with petals expanded in every cause growing up in beauty is a direction, is the most important gift, but also a daily challenge. flower of this land: it is the diagram Those who live in Capraia know that indicates the route to follow, this, this is why nature is the host guidance and protection, the sen- here, it is treated with respect and se of freedom and the search for is perceived as the shield, but abo- equilibrium.

The third largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago, since 1996, it has been part of the National Park and the UNESCO MAB Biosphere Reserve. A Protected Marine Area has been established in its sea with areas of different degrees of biological protection. It is also included in the International Cetacean Sanctuary as it is strongly affected by the presence of dolphins, fin whales and sperm whales and from 2020 even the very rare monk seal has started to frequent its coasts again. It is the smallest town in Tuscany and the closest to Corsica and 67 kilometres from Livorno, its provincial capital. Capraia ALTITUDE SURFACE INHABITANT Island 450m a.s.l. 19,3 km² 392 PATRON COORDINATES Saint Nicholas 43° 02’ 60” of 9° 50’ 32” East “Capraia is a tiny strip of land, December 6th perhaps emerged from the sea by a strange spell, only to disappear in a remote silence. TOURIST INFORMACION OFFICES Like a fleeting dream”. Pro Loco Isola di Capraia e Info Park Via Assunzione, Porto (next to la Salata) www.visitcapraia.it Ph. +39 347 7714601 www.prolococapraiaisola.it Tina Santini Lolli, [email protected] www.comune.capraiaisola.li.it Capraia d’altri tempi: aspetti di vita parlata locale. www.islepark.it/visitare-il-parco/capraia

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streams called “vadi”. On the island EARTH there is the only natural reservoir of The 4 The relative season is winter and the the archipelago, called “Stagnone associated direction is the north: Punta or Laghetto”. Elements of della Teglia is the northernmost where The island was inhabited since the the Island of the Torre delle Barbici is still present, age, frequented by the albeit in ruins. Travel Here the coast slopes down towards Etruscans and the most ancient Capraia the sea and colonies of herring gulls navigators, used by the Romans as Notes stay all year round in its jagged rocks. a naval base to fight Carthaginian It can be reached on foot thanks to a The island of Capraia, located hal- and Ligurian piracy and finally cho- path that starts from Portovecchio, fway between the and sen by groups of monks as a place runs high along the coast and allows the upper Tyrrhenian Sea, is the of their own faith. Destination of you to admire spectacular views of the only island of volcanic origin among the raids of pirates and corsairs, in- coves where the winter sea is tinged the islands of the Tuscan Archipe- cluding the terrible Dragut, in the with dark green and cobalt blue and lago. Born nine million years ago, it second half of 1500, made captures the intensity of its strength. is one of the oldest Mediterranean it safer by building the Fortress of islands. Its high coasts overlooking San Giorgio and the coastal . AIR the sea open to numerous bays, co- In 1925 the Municipality of Capra- It is associated with spring and the ves, ravines and caves originating ia Isola definitively passed to the corresponding direction is east: along from stratifications of rocks of mul- . Seat of a penal the road that leads up from the port tiple colours and shaped by erosion, colony until 1986, ten years later it to the village, there are many flowers always in different forms. Its ellip- was included in the Tuscan Archi- begin to bloom from March onwards in tical shape extends for 8 km from pelago National Park with the aim a riot of colours and scents: cornflower north to south and is characterized of preserving a unique natural re- and linaria, endemic species of the by mountainous areas that alter- ality and promoting tourism and island, helichrysum and cineraria, nate with small valleys crossed by sustainable development. wild orchids and oleanders, lilies and daffodils, buttercups and jonquil. Thanks to the temperatures that are not yet too hot, this is the ideal season to stroll among the fresh smells of awakening nature and to breathe new energy after the winter calm.

Although the name Capraia seems to derive from the ancient presence on the island of wild goats, the etymology of the word suggests a reference to its volcanic origin and its being rough and rocky, hence the term Aegylon in Greek “land of goats”, from the Etruscan Karpa which means rock, later becaming Capraria in , Cravaea in Ligurian and Capraghja in the ancient local dialect, an oscillation of Corsican speech with strong Ligurian and Sardinians ties, today unfortunately completely extinct. In this regard, the attempts to recover the ancient language with the aim of restoring the expressiveness, the intimacy of the place and the sense of belonging are interesting.

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FIRE It is associated with the summer season and the direction in which it pushes is the south: the Zenobito was built in 1545 with volcanic stones on three floors and with an internal mezzanine. The stones of the tower are red like the magmatic rocks of the cove below which in summer shines in all its shades and which well represents the idea of how this land was forged by fire. The Itineraries to far south can be reached by boat, or by following a path that runs along the spine of the entire island, along which experience it will be easy to get lost in the scents of Overland experience the scrub made of myrtles, strawberry trees, lentisks, heather, rock roses, Comfortable clothing and sturdy shoes, lun- the water buttercup in this helichrysum and rosemary. ch in your backpack, water bottle, binoculars season. In front, the laces of and camera: all you need to do is to face a Monte Le Penne dominate WATER unique trekking experience, a real moment and show an uphill path at It is joined to autumn and the The terrible Dragut of disconnection in nature. the end of which sea and corresponding direction is the west: He lived between 1485 and Capraia is the realm of green walks with a sky seem to merge and after the environmental restoration by 1565, and is one of the mythical varied offer of itineraries that differ in difficul- where the panorama beco- the Ente Paro authority, the Stagnone characters of the history of the has once again become an important ty and length, each with its own history and mes boundless. Continuing, seas and one the most ferocious naturalistic oasis. In addition to giving landscape. Due to the average degree of dif- from Monte Castello, the Barbary corsairs, whose history life to a rich and colourful ecosystem ficulty and the recommended season, star- downhill path will lead to the is intertwined with that of the with the flowers of the aquatic ting from March, one of the ideal ring routes former Penal Colony. Here island. The protagonist of raids buttercup, the big pond is in fact to take is the one that starts from the town the ancient building com- and pillages, in 1540 he landed located along the migratory routes of square in the direction of Stagnone-Monte plex of the Aghiale with the in Capraia where he began to many species of birds moving from Le Penne. Seven kilometres, which can be guards’ lodgings, the cante- bomb the fortified town and to the north to Africa. For this it is the covered in about five hours along an uphill, en, the small shop, the she- preferential point for the observation deport the inhabitants. Dragut well-signposted mule track that leads to the epfold and the cheese fac- of avifauna in the seasons of transition will be stopped by Andrea centre of the island. tory, invite us to an anthropic when nature is at its peak. Listening to Doria’s fleet who took him It is immediately possible to observe the typi- reflection on the measures and recognizing small scrub birds such prisoner, and then ransomed cal vegetation of the Mediterranean scrub for the redevelopment of as citril finches, Dartford warblers, white him to the pirate Barbarossa. wagtails and goldfinches, but also of present throughout the territory, where the the area, aimed at favouring the heron, the little egret, the peregrine splendid insular spring insists: the white rural activities linked to agri- falcon and the kestrel it is an activity flowers of the strawberry trees and the myrt- cultural productions. But it is that is only apparently reserved for le of the high maquis alternate with the bu- now time to return. The path, birdwatchers. It will rather allow you to shes of marine cysts, asphodel, and catnip on decorated with glimpses of dive fully in nature by restoring contact the Sella dell’Acciattore, while the hawthorns the terraces of the valleys with space, water and our spirit. perfume the air with their small white pe- planted with vineyards, sli- tals. Continuing on, the view of the Stagno- des back towards the port ne opens up, suggestive for the flowering of and the town.

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Fragrances and flavours of the earth A delicious break By nature and by vocation, the islands repre- sent the ideal places to encourage small pro- ductions that enhance the territories, recove- ring traditional crafts and processing tech- niques. In fact, all the restaurants in Capraia Experience by sea offer zero-kilometre products, cultivated with love by those who have chosen to live on this Some say that an island is an island only if of which must have once land, accepting the challenge of looking after you look at it from the sea. The tour of Ca- been divided by a rock that it, improving it and promoting it. The catch of praia by boat actually allows you to disco- collapsed. In the pristine the day, made up of molluscs, crustaceans and THE SAMMOLA ver the true nature of this land by offering environment it flies over rock fish such as sea bass and sea bream of It is a perennial bulbous glimpses of extraordinary beauty among the Osprey, while in the great quality, is appreciated fried, raw or ser- plant with an intense the cliffs shaped by the waves and covered cornflower-coloured wa- ved according to the rules of the best fishmon- onion smell very common by garrigue, which form recesses of various ters, with rocky bottoms, it gers. There are many gastronomic variations on the island. The bulb, sizes: rocks, coves, inlets, small caves, all evi- will be easy to find yourself of a simple but tasty and genuine cuisine, re- quite thick, can be used as dence of the geo-vulcanological evolution of swimming among many spectful of the identity of its places. Fresh or domestic garlic. the land. Cala Rossa, with the red and white species of fish, molluscs, aged cheeses derived from the processing of The Sammola, constitutes contrasts of its rocks, is the most complete crustaceans and coloured goat’s milk, tomatoes, zucchinis, pumpkins, ba- the basis of many recipes expression of the ancient Zenobito volcano. sponges. The island is also sil and aubergines grown on terraced gardens, of dishes linked to the Some of these places can only be reached a diving and snorkelling syrups and jams made with Mediterranean gastronomic tradition of from the sea, by renting boats or rafts to paradise, a place of interna- fruits and berries such as mastic, myrtle, May Capraia. proceed even in full autonomy. tional excellence for scuba rose, strawberry tree, rosemary and blackber- Located respectively to the east and west, diving. ries. Even honey, with its refined and persistent there are two coves that best identify the Diving into the sea of the aroma that comes from the different blooms experiential character of the stay of those protected area of the island of the scrub, is obtained from hives located in who visit the island. To the north east, Cala means being ready for a the hinterland. Everything is aimed at enhan- della Mortola fills and empties with sand unique and unrepeatable cing the resources present, without discarding according to the winds: with the experience. The world that anything: foraging, horticulture, breeding, pro- it arrives, with the it returns away. opens up just below the sea duction of oil, hops and wine, the latter obtai- Here the sea becomes turquoise and with line is an incredible scena- ned from vines of different adaptations and its seabed rich in marine fauna and flora, it is rio where a rich and varied types: from the Aleatico, intense and balanced, a must. The beauty of the inlet, which deri- fauna of white bream and to Vermentino with its citrus notes and to Gre- ves its name from the myrtle plant, also lies Greater amberjack, grouper nache, clear and juicy. It is not possible to leave in the surrounding landscape, an evergreen and barracuda, scorpion fish the island without tasting the excellent craft be- cliff characterized in spring by the flowe- and mullet swims, among ers that recall the scents of the Mediterranean ring of the white sea lily. On the other side the crystal-clear seabed rich scrub. All to be tested, the helichrysum blanche, of the island, to the west, Cala del Reciso coloured in rocks and a mul- the ipa, the honey-flavoured blonde, the red bit- welcomes its two natural arches, the largest tiform vegetation. ter and the Belgian with myrtle leaves.

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How to reach the Island of Capraia

Capraia can only be reached by sea: with the , the scheduled ferry of the fleet, which connects the Porto Mediceo of Livorno to the island with a journey of 2 hours and 45 minutes, or by sailing or motorboat, with your own recreational boat, to be moored in the small tourist port managed by the Marina di Capraia. Once on the island, a small bus shuttles between the Advice from those who quay and the town (distance 1 km) every day throughout the year, but although the services offered are optimal- live on the island ly guaranteed in all seasons, it is with spring that in fact tourism is reborn and with it an enrichment of the num- The people who live on the island are true citizens of Capraia. Some ber and timing of proposals. Accommodations of various were born there, others have reached this land for work and have types, restaurants, shops and farms, will offer countless decided to stay. Someone has come travelling, and has returned to alternatives to stay and together with environmental gui- never leave. Linked to the sea or the land, or both, they all live in des, maritime operators and diving, will allow you to get symbiosis with the nature that surrounds them, drawing inspiration, to know the island in all its manifold and singular aspects, strength, a sense of belonging and conviviality from it. Listening to savouring paths and ravines, sea and coves, atmospheres them means immersing oneself with the mind and heart in the and peculiarities, flavours and typical products. stories of wind, salt, clean air, suggestive sunsets and starry skies, violent storms, cool spring evenings and a lot of work faced every day with courage. In this small, almost perfect world, marked by the rhythms of the island, it is advisable to enter without making any noise, letting ourselves be guided only by our sensations. It is recom- mended to observe and understand. Appreciate, if possible. Percei- ving by touch. Breathe the air that surrounds us walking along the paths in the soft light of the dawn or in the sea, to the west, lying on the boat while the sun disappears under the horizon. It is recom- mended to free the mind from conditioning. To rediscover the true meaning of being with others. And, first of all, with oneself.

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San Giorgio Fortress Not to be missed Considered one of the symbols of In summer 2020, In September 2020, Squids, which are the island, the Castle of San Giorgio, 22 buoys have been a community library called “calamari” in The Palmenti placed at a distance of was inaugurated Capraia, are fished has dominated the north-east side During a walk along the paths of the 50 meters from each inside the 16th- from autumn to late island, the traveller may be surprised of the island since 1540, a period in other, along a marine century Torre del winter, from land or in front of the large quadrangular which the of Genoa inter- line that extends for Porto, where more boat. “Andare a totani” basins carved into the rock, spread vened to free the island from the 1100 metres, from than 1500 volumes (fishing for squid) throughout the island, and in parti- pirate Dragut. In its place stood the the Grotta, under the have found space: is an ancient and Torre del Porto, to novels, non-fiction, deep-rooted tradition, cular in the Tigghielle area and on Castello Pisano, built in 1200 and beyond the Torretta local bibliography, but also a typical the rocky esplanade overlooking the destroyed by the pirate himself. Today the castle has been renova- del Bagno, under as well as archival “Capraiese” saying. Castle. These are ancient structures the Fortezza San documents that tell Rich in mineral salts that were used for the pressing of ted and reveals some secrets such as the pre-existing church, active Giorgio and where the history of this land and low in fat and grapes and the production of wine. there is a ban on and the traditions calories, its meat is since the 1400s, which was also the The word “palmento” derives from navigation, anchoring of the people who of excellent quality the Latin “pavimentum” (pavire: to burial place of many people from and mooring. A have populated it and becomes tender beat, to pound), but they are also Capraia, perhaps killed by an epi- dedicated itinerary over time. A place and delicate when called “pigiatoi or pestarole”. demic. for swimming, of culture, loan and cooked to perfection. swimtrekking, consultation, but Whichever way you The former Penal Colony Church of San Nicola snorkelling, reserved also a service and like it: carpaccio, It will welcome you in the main for bathing in updating centre for stewed, grilled or The Colonia Penale, an open-air freedom and safety islanders and tourists. fried, it is sure to working colony, occupied almost square of the town, with its ancient pink bell tower that tolls the hours which takes the name delight the palate. a third of the island for about a of the Blue Mile. hundred years. Closed in 1986, the of sunset. Inside it houses a woo- prison has left evident architectu- den statue dedicated to the saint, ral marks in the structures, called recovered from the sea. “branches”, of its complex which, Capraia has always The first or second It’s easy to make from the Arco dell’Aghiale, runs been a “laboratory Sunday after the the Sammole Pie. uphill throughout the northern in nature” for the summer solstice, Just take a bunch area of the island. It can be reached study of natural the organization of a of sammole, 200 g after a walk of about half an hour sciences and marine charity lunch open to flour, salt, pepper, 5 biology. Here scholars, everyone, donates its tablespoons of extra along the Cornero road, immersed researchers and proceeds to the Meyer virgin olive oil and in a natural setting with a specta- students are active in Hospital in Florence, water. cular view over the harbour bay research and training to support childcare. Cut the sammole into and the town. activities related to Participating will small pieces in a bowl, the development of mean living a add the flour, salt outdoor projects. profound experience and enough water to and sharing projects obtain a not too liquid Time to go back and expectations. batter. Put the oil in a For the island, 2020 was the year in which important presences from the past returned low pan and pour in home. In the Cala del Ceppo area, the Monk Seal has been sighted, an elusive and difficult the batter. Bake in the oven at 180° for about to see species but above all at risk of extinction. In the same year, the exhibition “Il ritorno 30 minutes. It should del guerriero” (The return of the warrior) was inaugurated in the Church of Sant’Antonio, be crispy on top and which collects a series of archaeological finds that come from the Tomb of the Warrior, when cooked, add attributed to a young soldier who died during the battle of Corsica in 456 A.D.. Of great some black pepper. historical value is its military equipment consisting of weapons and buckles, which can be traced back to the imperial manufactories of Gaul. Do you know that...

40 41 LIVORNO EXPERIENCE VIVERE LE TERRE D’ACQUA LIVORNO ISOLA DI CAPRAIA COLLESALVETTI Regenerate yourself in the green of the Mediterranean Scrub Wooded areas, cultivated fields and land saw the progressive swam- waterways are the elements that ping of the ancient Pisan port, only make up the Collesalvetti area, a na- to rise again with the Medici in a tural heritage that is part of the Monti hunting reserve and agricultural Livornesi Park. production area. A real green lung that extends for Today, along the panoramic paths 1300 hectares, dotted with nume- it is possible to admire the remains rous small villages, where traces of a of the Leopoldine Aqueduct, desi- rural past still persist. A few kilome- gned and built in the 19th century tres from the coast, the area unfolds by the Grand Dukes of Tuscany for between plains, rolling hills and stre- the water supply to the city of Li- ams, offering a meaningful experien- vorno, and enjoy an environment ce for all outdoor enthusiasts. Alrea- where nature and the work of the dy frequented by the Etruscans and man meet, in the past as in the pre- Romans, during the Middle Ages this sent.

ALTITUDE SURFACE INHABITANTS DENSITY 40m a.s.l. 107,96 km² 16 401[3] 151,92 inhabitants/km² PATRON FRACTIONS Collesalvetti San Quirico and Castell’Anselmo, Colognole, , Santa Giulitta Nugola, , June 16th , Stagno, Vicarello

FRACTIONS Collesalvetti - Livorno (central station): “I remember an ancient church, 12 minutes by car · 30/40 minutes by bike hermit, in the hour when the air 1 hour and 56 minutes on foot 16 minutes by bus (105) turns orange and every voice is splintered under the arch of the sky”. TOURIST INFORMACION OFFICES Piazza della Repubblica, 32 Come un’allegoria (1932-1935), Ph. +39 0586 980111 by Giorgio Caproni, Work in verse www.comune.collesalvetti.li.it/site/home/argomenti/turismo-e-territorio.html

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COLOGNOLE Here begins the Lorraine Aqueduct, also called “di Colognole”, which covers a distance of eighteen kilometres in the countryside. Along its route the aqueduct crosses the hamlet of Parrana, located 200 metres high above sea level, through a Path along the Colognole Aqueduct road that alternates tunnels and galleries to the majestic arches. Travel The route continues towards The Villages Nugola, formerly known by its Notes name of “Nuvola”, because it is Castell’Anselmo, Colognole, enveloped in a fog due to the Guasticce, Nugola, effect of warm-humid air typical Already inhabited in prehistoric times, the town and the nearby hamlets Parrana San Giusto, of this area. have very ancient origins, just think that one of the most important commu- Parrana San Martino, nication routes of ancient history passes through these lands, the Aemilia Stagno, Vicarello. NUGOLA Scauri. In the Middle Ages the area was in unhealthy conditions, due to the In 1503, the village of Nugola swamp that covered it almost entirely. Following a plague epidemic, the area was mentioned on the “Carta became totally depopulated and the inhabitants, forced to flee to the hills, della Toscana Marittima” (Map gave birth to small villages still present today. When the Medici inaugurated of the Maritime Tuscany) a general reclamation plan, favouring the repopulation of the countryside, it drawn by Leonardo Da Vinci. Its began the development of this territory, destined for cultivation. Only after geographical position, the culture careful control of the waterways that the Medici first and then the Lorrai- and the nature of the place make ne succeeded in assigning these lands to agricultural use and to repopulate this town an important hub of the plains. In the 19th century with the French occupation, the community the Tuscan paths and routes. of Colle was assigned a large territory, which associated the localities of Ca- stell’Anselmo, Collognole, Nugola, Guasticce, Vicarello, Parrana (San Giusto and San Martino) and Gabbro. VICARELLO The Etruria, Santa Giulia and the Like most countries of this area, it Tirreni routes, which cross these has never abandoned its peasant The toponym is found for the first time in territories, offer cultural and tradition. Following the rows of 1272 as “Collis Salvecti” (Colle di Salvetto) multisensory experiences for a slow cypresses and along the banks of in a land sale contract, drawn up by this tourism immersed in the nature of the Tora stream can be reached “notary Salvetto, son of Borgo, in Villa di the Tuscan landscape. the numerous lands entirely Colle”. With the victory of Florence, Colle covered with vineyards, where became a Medici villa, a hunting lodge and wine has been produced since the driving force of the Grand Ducal Farm ancient times. - first Medici, then Lorraine - which at the time of its maximum expansion included over twenty farms.

44 45 LIVORNO EXPERIENCE VIVERE LE TERRE D’ACQUA LIVORNO ISOLA DI CAPRAIA COLLESALVETTI

In Torretta, along the provincial road (206) is the Archaeological Area of the “Mansio Romana”, discovered in the 1990s. It is believed to be part of a large public thermal baths built near a roadside rest stop for Rome. The area can be visited thanks to periodic openings: part of the system is visible heating of the thermal system and sections of the mosaic flooring with geometric designs as well as Not to be portions of masonry in opus mixtum. Itineraries to missed experience

A network of hiking trails unwinds from the In Parrana San Martino, in 2010, a necro- the suppression of the order. hilltop towns, making it possible to appre- polis dating back to the end of the Bron- In the 20th century it was de- ciate this green island, the ideal place for a ze Age was discovered, which includes 166 clared a National Monument perfect reconnection with uncontaminated burials. The Livorno Museum of Natural Hi- and the state property but this Nature. On foot, by bicycle or on horseback, story of the Mediterranean has dedicated a did not safeguard the convent it is possible to reach Livorno by following section of the archaeological exhibition to from continuous looting: the the route of the ancient Leopoldine Aque- this important find. detached frescoes and the bell duct, which, along woods and streams, rea- Inside the Livorno hills, the ruins of the are kept in the Museum of the ches the sea. The itinerary crosses the Monti Sambuca hermitage are still striking today City of Livorno. Livornesi Park, a protected area animated by Oasi della Contessa Nature Reserve for its mystical atmosphere. The presence The path of the Lepoldine wild boars, foxes and weasels, moving throu- of hermits of the order of St. Augustine is Aqueduct amazes for its size: it gh colourful broom and holm oak and cork attested since the 13th century. Subse- is dotted with arches, some of woods. For outdoor lovers, the experience of quently, the place was inhabited by the which are vertiginous, that lead the Oasi della Contessa, a Regional Nature Gesuati friars who remained there until from Colognole to the little Ci- Reserve, is definitely recommended. stern of Pian di Rota. A neoclas- It remains as the last testimony of a coastal Path along the Colognole Aqueduct sical style building surrounded marsh in this area. The area is equipped for by a large green lawn, ending birdwatching and allows you to await the in Livorno in the imposing Ci- rest of numerous species that make this pla- sternone, also known as the ce a stopping point during migration. Alone Gran Conserva, a monumental or in a group, accompanied by environmen- water reservoir in Livorno. The tal guides who also promote activities for the work was designed by Pasqua- little ones, it is possible to observe the he- le Poccianti with the function rons, marine jays and discover the characte- of restoring water to the city of ristic vegetation of this extraordinary natural Livorno, which used it until 1912. habitat.

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THE BORDATINO It is a buckwheat-based soup, a The Abbey of The Collesalvetti To get to know the “” (porridge) with black twelve Apostles of theatre is set up protagonists of cabbage lengthened with fish Collesalvetti, since inside of a former Livorno’s artistic broth; buckwheat today it is 1200 it housed industrial building. In events between replaced by corn flour and fish a congregation the early 2000s the the 19th and 20th broth by beans. It is a poor but of religious who, structure has been centuries such very nutritious dish, born on according to restored and the as Renato Natali, sailing ships to support the stories handed show hall has become , Marians during long journeys by down, professed a a multifunctional Giovanni Lomi, sea. mysterious doctrine cultural space that Giovanni Marchi, it is living in perennial offers national theatre necessary to visit the THE FRANCESINA AND isolation. programs during the Picture THE HYMN OF GARIBALDI winter. Gallery in Collesalvetti. They are dishes based on boiled meat “remade in the pan” that embody the ancient wisdom of reusing leftovers, with tomato and In the Church of the The Historical Garden In the central streets onion in the first case, and the Saints Peter and Paul is an environmental some scenes of the addition of abundant potatoes in in Colognole perhaps and cultural film “Tutti a casa” by the second. is preserved the oldest recovery project Luigi Comencini were example of piccolo of the area where shot in the small town Profumi e sapori positive organ present the Antica Fattoria of . della terra in Tuscany. Dating di Nugola Nuova Wines and grains back to the end of stands, involving the Una pausa sfiziosa The flagships of the production of the 16th century, it enhancement of the Collesalvetti takes this area are the flours, in particular still has the original ancient garden and part to the “The Alcuni dei piatti della tradizione the cultivation of ancient grains, oil decorations. the old granaries. City of Honey” contadina sono nati dall’incontro tra production and that of wine. Along The Collesalvetti project, a product gli ingredienti, gli usi e i costumi dei the Cerreta provincial road it is band maintains the which represents popoli approdati in secoli di scambi possible to see the vineyards planted imprint of the old the excellence of sul porto di Livorno. with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Colligiana musical local specialties. Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. band, it is in fact a real The area is rich in The Insuese area is dedicated to “wind orchestra”, with beekeepers and the organic cultivation of wheat, traditional musical organic productions, in particular the soft wheat Verna, repertoires. Gentil Rosso and durum wheat some of which Triticum Turanicum, from which are internationally flours of ancient BIO grains are awarded. obtained. Also, in this area there are more than 7000 specimens of olive trees, including Frantoio, Leccino and Moraiolo. Do you know that...

48 49 Spring Summer JULY LIVORNO AGRICULTURAL FESTIVAL OF THE TOTANO CAPRAIA EFFETTO VENEZIA HISTORICAL FAIR (SQUID) APRIL JUNE FESTIVAL MUOVASI A cultural and gastronomy (first Tuesday of September) (between October CAPRAIA CAPRAIA CAPRAIA BETWEEN event full of shows. The Exhibition-market of local and November) WALKING FESTIVAL SUMMER IN THE PARK SEA AND DREAM typical district of Venice producers of honey, cheese, Evento gastronomico An event that opens the A calendar of activities CAPRAIA MUSIC FESTIVAL lights up with lights and fruit and sale of agricultural esperenziale. Oltre alla door to the tourist season. and initiatives for all age. Cultural appointment colours in a festival of tools and implements. gara di pesca, molte sono A rich calendar of guided Naturalistic and cultural with the island. Calendar music, theatre, dance, art Creative workshops le iniziative musicali, trekking routes, cultural and trekking, excursions in boat, of classical music events, exhibitions and boat tours and demonstrations of culturali che arricchiscono il naturalistic itineraries and snorkelling, educational theatre, conferences, book along the canals. craftsmanship according to programma. Al centro della experiences in collaboration workshops, gastronomic presentations, cinema under www.livorno-effettovenezia.it ancient traditions. manifestazione il piatto with local farms. experiences with local farms. the stars, in the setting of www.comune.collesalvetti.li.it tipico dell’isola da gustare www.islepark.it/visitare-il-parco/capraia www.islepark.it/visitare-il-parco/capraia historic and evocative places COLLESALVETTI nella grande varietà dei www.visitcapraia.it www.visitcapraia.it www.visitcapraia.it (Insuese Loc.) NUGOLA menù dei ristoranti locali. OPERA BY THE LAKE SEPTEMBER DI... VINE www.sagradeltotano.it LIVORNO LIVORNO COLLESALVETTI Symphonic opera concert Una manifestazione INTERNATIONAL ROW RACES NOTTE CLARA at Lake Alberto. The show, all’insegna del divertimento LIVORNO SAILING WEEK (Coppa Barontini, Risiatori, July 18th – A festival through held in the splendid natural e del buon cibo per HARBOREA (between April and May) Palio Marinaro, Palio the streets of the town that setting of the Regional salutare l’estate. Sono In the splendid setting A sporting event of dell’Antenna) Re-enactment come alive with numerous Nature Reserve within the questi gli elementi chiave of Villa Mimbelli takes international appeal of the ancient rowing cultural, musical events Bellavista Insuese Estate. di Settembre Di…vino, il place the fair market of organized by the Naval competitions that feature and shows. The program is www.tenutabellavistainsuese.it consueto evento dove il flowers and plants, seeds, Academy of Livorno and the the colourful boats of the enriched by the presence protagonista è il vino di vegetables and spices sailing clubs of the city. A districts that run along the of food and craft stands SEPTEMBER produzione locale. from all over the world. full program of regattas and canals of the city and in the that rediscover the ancient LIVORNO www.comune.collesalvetti.li.it The market exhibition is competitions in the open stretch of open sea in front handicraft production. MASCAGNI FESTIVAL enriched by a calendar sea between various classes of the Livorno lighthouse. A Classical music festival in full of musical events and of boats. The program www.gareremierelivorno.it Autumn COLOGNOLE the splendid natural setting OCTOBER initiatives, themed shows is enriched with events FESTIVAL OF THE BOAR of the Mascagni Terrace, CAPRAIA and workshops. and cultural initiatives to CACCIUCCO PRIDE A typical gastronomic dedicated to the well-known WALKING FESTIVAL www.harborea.com enhance the city. Gastronomic festival that event which focuses on the composer from Livorno. A rich calendar of guided www.settimanavelicainternazionale.it celebrates the symbolic preparation of dishes linked Concerts, shows and cultural trekking routes, cultural and dish of the city, prepared to the traditional Tuscan performances enrich the naturalistic itineraries and MAY according to tradition by cuisine. event program. experiences in collaboration CAPRAIA local restaurateurs. Cultural www.mascagnifestival.it with local farms. FESTIVAL OF FLAVOURS events, guided tours theme AUGUST www.islepark.it/visitare-il-parco/capraia OF THE LANDS OF THE SEA and performance of music, COLLESALVETTI www.visitcapraia.it Themed food and wine and animate the Kermesse in CAPRAIA PALIO OF THE CARTS cultural history event with the historical places of the FESTIVAL OF THE Events As part of the village fair, the tasting of typical dishes and city. ASSUMPTION On August 15th festivals and typical race of ball-bearing sport, products linked to tradition. www.cacciuccopridelivorno.it games are held in the port. carts takes place within a www.visitcapraia.it art and culture The evening is dedicated circuit in the streets of the www.prolococapraiaisola.it of Livorno, to the procession towards historic centre. Capraia Island e the sea of the statue of the www.comune.collesalvetti.li.it Madonna greeted by sirens Collesalvetti and fireworks. www.prolococapraiaisola.it www.visitcapraia.it

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