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My Father Left Bulgaria When He Was 14. Nearly 7 Decades Later, We Visit As A

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My Father Left Bulgaria When He Was 14. Nearly 7 Decades Later, We Visit As A SUNDAY, JULY 7, 2019 . SECTION F EZ EE SUNDAY, JULY 7, 2019 . THE WASHINGTON POST EZ EE F1 KLMNO Travel CAYCE CLIFFORD FOR THE WASHINGTON POST NAVIGATOR In any tongue, an Make sure to read your emotional family travel contracts before return to Bulgaria Wine country’s food pairing you hit the road. F2 GO HERE, NOT THERE BY DINA MISHEV For 25 years, Thomas Keller has graced Yountville, Calif., with his genius In New Orleans, a genteel Plovdiv, a city built on six hills respite from Bourbon rising from the plains between BY MARY BETH ALBRIGHT Street. F2 the Balkan and Rhodope moun- tains, is Bulgaria’s first European I recommend approaching Yountville in the dark. Nighttime driving conceals Napa Valley’s INDIA Capital of Culture, an annual Mayacamas Mountains and hillsides, so I wake in my hotel surprised and enchanted by the Escape the heat at these designation given by the Euro- pean Commission to highlight vineyard landscape. ¶ Darkness also helps me imagine the time before Napa Valley became mountaintop vacation the diversity of arts and culture. an international wine destination. The industry ran on faith between the winery- destinations.F5 It is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities on the continent. decimating plague of Prohibition 100 years ago and the 1976 Judgment of Paris, when Napa Walking around it, it’s all I can wines beat French wines in a blind taste test. The latter event started a worldwide Napa do not to cry in gratitude, wonder and happiness. I am on a family Valley wine obsession that continues today. ¶ And for Yountville, a town nestled in southern trip that I never expected to Napa Valley, the opening 25 years ago this weekend of chef Thomas Keller’s the French happen: my dad, mom, brother and myself visiting the country Laundry began its time of flourishing. Keller turned the French Laundry into an where my father was born. He international bucket-list destination, a place where people who can’t get (or can’t afford) lived here until he was 14, when he and several family members reservations take selfies in front of the sign. SEE NAPA VALLEY ON F4 fled as the Communist Party grew in influence across the country. A hot air balloon hovers over the Domaine Chandon winery in Yountville, Calif. Emotions follow me 125 miles northeast of Plovdiv to Veliko SEE BULGARIA ON F3 SUNDAY, JULY 7, 2019 . THE WASHINGTON POST EZ EE F3 pulled by oxen Belyo (“white”) and Sin (“blue”) was an all-night Father’s journey from the family farm. Veliko Tarnovo is almost 200 miles farther from his village than Vidin. Plovdiv is about 50 homeland miles more distant. My dad learned about the long histories of both cities in school, but says is worth the idea of seeing either in person never crossed his mind. In 2003, when I was in my mid-20s, I spent two weeks in the visit Bulgaria with my dad, but didn’t make it much farther from his village than he had as a kid. On BULGARIA FROM F1 that trip, my initial meeting with every second cousin, family Tarnovo. Here, over Bolyarka friend and former neighbor who beers on a large terrace overlook- hadn’t fled the country (and who ing the imposing Asenevtsi Mon- didn’t speak English) started ument — four larger-than-life- with them excitedly greeting me size mounted horsemen around a in Bulgarian. I smiled in what I 30-foot-tall sword — we agree hoped was an apologetic manner this city should be Bulgaria’s next as my dad explained I had no idea European Capital of Culture. what they had just said. Veliko Tarnovo was the coun- An argument could be made try’s capital for several hundred that my father shouldn’t have years and reigned as one of listened to a 7-year-old complain- Europe’s centers of arts and cul- ing about language lessons. Still I ture in the Middle Ages. (It’s fine can imagine “this is your lan- to just call it “Tarnovo,” which is guage, not mine” hurting so what most locals do; veliko, much that it made sense to wait which means “great” in Bulgar- for me to come back to him when ian, was only added to the city’s I was interested. Except I never name in 1965.) Tarnovo was the did. By 2003, all I could do was first Bulgarian city to be written recite the first seven letters of the about in National Geographic; a Cyrillic alphabet. story about it ran in the maga- Every introduction left me zine’s October 1907 issue. Its feeling I had let my dad down. history goes back five millennia That trip ended with me glad and its cobblestoned, red-roofed to have put faces to names of homes and businesses spill down these distant family members a steep natural amphitheater cre- and to have seen where my dad ated by a sharp bend in the grew up. Since he left, his family’s Yantra River. house had been razed and a modest, one-floor, village hall Reclaiming a heritage built in its place. The well he Growing up, there wasn’t fetched water from and a couple much Bulgarian culture in our of trees he climbed remained. I suburban house, but there was was in no hurry to return. banitsa, a flaky, cheesy tradition- It wasn’t until after both my al Bulgarian pastry, and nightly dad and I were several years out Bulgarian lessons for my young- from brutal-but-successful treat- er brother and myself from my ment for cancer (melanoma for dad. My mom, a Baltimorean him; breast for me) and he was 82 whose sweet tooth crossed cul- that I decided I wanted to go tures, never stopped baking the back. Fifteen years had passed. A former, but the latter ended one more mature traveler and daugh- night in second grade when I told ter (although still unable to speak my dad, “This is your language, Bulgarian), I instigated the trip. not mine.” My brother Rob and my mom, When he lived in Bulgaria, my neither of whom had been to dad never went to Plovdiv or Bulgaria before, quickly an- Veliko Tarnovo. His family lived nounced they were coming too. in Perilovets, a farming village in “We have to make it the ultimate the country’s northwestern cor- homecoming for dad — to share ner, near its borders with Roma- his birthplace and heritage with nia and present-day Serbia. He his American family, all togeth- did go to Vidin, a port city on the er,” my mom said. “It just has to Danube River about 30 miles DINA MISHEV FOR THE WASHINGTON POST be all of us!” from his village that, in a cart The city of Plovdiv in Bulgaria is built on six hills, including Nebet Tepe, where a group of people gather to watch the sunset. SEE BULGARIA ON F6 If you go ROMANIA WHERE TO STAY Hotel Evmolpia SERBIA 4 Pernik St., Plovdiv Winner by association. 011-359-32-957-795 Sofia hotelevmolpia.com BULGARIA Black KOSOVO Sea A boutique hotel in the city’s Old Town with antique-filled rooms and Plovdiv a daily happy hour with free wine NORTH 100 MILES MACEDONIA and cheese; walking distance from TURKEY many of the city’s historic sites. Istanbul GREECE Double rooms, including breakfast, from about $67 per night. THE WASHINGTON POST 81/2 Art Guest House 15-17 Gen. Gurko St., Plovdiv Plovdiv open at 2 p.m. daily from October The Washington Post 011-359-32-396-699 011-359-878-313-995 through April. No reservations required. Free. artguesthouse.com/en catandmouse.bg/bar Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis Seven whimsical rooms, some with Several beers, including locally balconies, in the heart of Old Town. brewed ones, are on tap at this bar 4000 Tsentar, Plovdiv Rooms, including breakfast, from specializing in craft brews; more 011-359-03-262-1040 is the #1 print and online about $81 per night. than 100 beers from around the A landslide in 1970 revealed a Hotel Gurko world — Belgium, Czech Republic, Roman theater in the middle of 33 Gurko St., Veliko Tarnovo Germany, Britain, Serbia — Plovdiv’s Old Town that was built in available by the bottle. Beers from 011-359-887-858-965 the 1st century. After a lengthy about $3. restoration, this theater is among source among private hotel-gurko.com Gurko Tavern the best-preserved Roman A 21-room hotel constructed of 33 Gurko St., Veliko Tarnovo theaters in existence. Concerts stone and timber in Veliko and events are held here in the 011-359-887-858-965 Tarnovo’s Old Town with rooms summer. Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. overlooking the Asenevtsi hotel-gurko.com daily April through October and Monument, Yantra River and Hearty, meaty meals like spicy pork 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. November association opinion Tsarevets. Rooms, including stew, bread stuffed with chicken through March. Entrance about $3 breakfast, from about $53 per and pork ribs with polenta in a for all ages. night. cozy, stone-floored tavern on a Bulgaria Wine Tours cobblestone street above the WHERE TO EAT Plovdiv Hemingway Restaurant Yantra River and opposite the leaders nationally 011-359-888-487-113 10 Gurko St., Plovdiv Asenevtsi Monument. Open 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Entrees bulgariawinetours.com 011-359-89-449-0636 from about $6. Half-, full- and multiday tours in hemingway.bg/en Restaurant Asenevci English, with tastings, to several of Traditional Bulgarian ingredients 7 Stamboliiski St., Veliko Tarnovo the 20-some boutique wineries in like veal, lamb and peppers are the surrounding Thracian Valley.
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