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T9 W B 2 e PolarisChief Scientist’s Recollections of the American North Pole Expedition, 1871–73 Emil Bessels 2 Polaris NORTHERN LIGHTS SERIES Copublished with the Arctic Institute of North America issn 1701-0004 (print) issn 1925-2943 (online) This series takes up the geographical region of the North (circumpolar regions within the zone of discontinuous permafrost) and publishes works from all areas of northern schol- arship, including natural sciences, social sciences, earth sciences, and the humanities. No. 1 · Nunavik: Inuit-Controlled Education in Arctic Quebec Ann Vick-Westgate · Copublished with the Katutjiniq Regional Development Council No. 2 · Many Faces of Gender: Roles and Relationships through Time in Northern Indigenous Communities Edited by Lisa Frink, Rita S. Shepard, and Gregory A. Reinhardt · Copublished with University Press of Colorado No. 3 · New Owners in their Own Land: Minerals and Inuit Land Claims Robert McPherson No. 4 · War North of 80: The Last German Arctic Weather Station of World War II Wilhelm Dege, translated and edited by William Barr · Copublished with University Press of Colorado No. 5 · Writing Geographical Exploration: Thomas James and the Northwest Passage 1631–33 Wayne K.D. Davies No. 6 · As Long as This Land Shall Last: A History of Treaty 8 and Treaty 11, 1870–1939 René Fumoleau No. 7 · Breaking Ice: Renewable Resource and Ocean Management in the Canadian North Edited by Fikret Berkes, Rob Huebert, Helen Fast, Micheline Manseau, and Alan Diduck No. 8 · Alliance and Conflict: The World System of the Inupiaq Eskimos Ernest S. Burch · Copublished with the University of Nebraska Press No. 9 · Tanana and Chandalar: The Alaska Field Journals of Robert A. McKennan Edited by Craig Mishler and William E. Simeone · Copublished with University of Alaska Press No. 10 · Resurrecting Dr. Moss: The Life and Letters of a Royal Navy Surgeon, Edward Lawton Moss, MD, RN, 1837–1880 Paul C. Appleton, edited by William Barr No. 11 · Lands that Hold One Spellbound: A Story of East Greenland Spencer Apollonio No. 12 · Biocultural Diversity and Indigenous Ways of Knowing: Human Ecology in the Arctic Karim-Aly S. Kassam No. 13 · Arctic Scientist, Gulag Survivor: The Biography of Mikhail Mikhailovich Ermolaev, 1905–1991 A.M. Ermolaev and V.D. Dibner, translated and edited by William Barr No. 14 · The Reindeer Botanist: Alf Erling Porsild, 1901–1977 Wendy Dathan No. 15 · The Fast-Changing Arctic: Rethinking Arctic Security for a Warmer World Edited by Barry Scott Zellen No. 16 · Shipwreck at Cape Flora: The Expeditions of Benjamin Leigh Smith, England’s Forgotten Arctic Explorer P.J. Capelotti No. 17 · A Historical and Legal Study of Sovereignty in the Canadian North: Terrestrial Sovereignty, 1870–1939 Gordon W. Smith, edited by P. Whitney Lackenbauer No. 18 · Baffin Island: Field Research and High Arctic Adventure, 1961–1967 Jack D. Ives No. 19 · Polaris: The Chief Scientist’s Recollections of the American North Pole Expedition, 1871–73 Emil Bessels, translated and edited by William Barr 2 Polaris The Chief Scientist’s Recollections of the American North Pole Expedition, 1871–73 Emil Bessels Translated from the German: Die Amerikanische Nordpol-Expedition (Leipzig: Verlag von Wilhelm Engelmann, 1879) 9by William Barr Northern Lights Series ISSN 1701-0004 (Print) ISSN 1925-2943 (Online) © 2016 William Barr University of Calgary Press 2500 University Drive NW Calgary, Alberta Canada T2N 1N4 press.ucalgary.ca This book is available as an ebook which is licensed under a Creative Commons license. The publisher should be contacted for any commercial use which falls outside the terms of that license. Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Bessels, Emil, 1847-1888 [Die amerikanische Nordpol-Expedition. English] Polaris : the chief scientist’s recollections of the American North Pole expedition, 1871-73 / Emil Bessels ; translated from the German: Die amerikanische Nordpol-Expedition (Leipzig: Verlag von Wilhelm Engelmann, 1879), by William Barr. (Northern lights series ; no. 19) Includes bibliographical references and index. Issued in print and electronic formats. ISBN 978-1-55238-875-4 (paperback).—ISBN 978-1-55238-876-1 (open access pdf).— ISBN 978-1-55238-877-8 (pdf).—ISBN 978-1-55238-878-5 (epub).—ISBN 978-1-55238-879-2 (mobi) 1. Polaris (Ship). 2. Arctic regions—Discovery and exploration—American. 3. Bessels, Emil, 1847-1888—Travel—Arctic regions. 4. Hall, Charles Francis, 1821-1871. I. Barr, William, 1940-, editor, translator II. Arctic Institute of North America, issuing body III. Title. IV. Title: Die amerikanische Nordpol-Expedition. English V. Series: Northern lights series ; no. 19 G670.1871.B4713 2016 919.804 C2016-907071-9 C2016-907072-7 The University of Calgary Press acknowledges the support of the Government of Alberta through the Alberta Media Fund for our publications. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund for our publishing activities. We acknowledge the financial support of the Canada Council for the Arts for our publishing program. This book has been published with the help of a grant from the Federation for the Humanities and Social Sciences, through the Awards to Scholarly Publications Program, using funds provided by the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada. An electronic version of this book is freely available, thanks to the support of libraries working with Knowledge Unlatched. KU is a collaborative initiative designed to make high quality books Open Access for the public good. The Open Access ISBN for this book is 978-1-55238-876-1. More information about the initative and links to the Open Access version can be found at www.knowledgeunlatched.org. Cover Image: Top - Colour box image #2395643. Bottom - Fig. 26. Separation of the party. Copyediting by Peter Enman Cover design, page design, and typesetting by Melina Cusano B a f f i n maps G B B a y R Cape A Seddon E F Melville Bay F Gulf of U E Boothia Nursoak I N N Rit Ja Fury L MelvillePenn. and Cape Ch I Hecla Adair Tasiusaq Upernavik Strait A S Kingiktok L D a v i s PrøvenN St A Melville Penn. Uummannaq Fjord D N n Vaigat Uummannaq i Nursoak s D S t r a i t Henry Kater a Pen. Disko Ritenbenk B Niantilik Godhavn Whalefish Jacobshavn Disko Bugt e Island Meta Incognita Penn. Christianshåb x Egedesminde Lake Cape o Kennedy Searle F Stromsfjord HolsteinsborgIg Stromfjord C Exeter Bay Arctic Circle u Niantilik m b Meta Incognita Penn. e r H la Sukkertoppen u n d d s S o o u n n d F . Godthåb r o b B a y S i LABRADOR s h Fiskernaesset t e H u d s o n r r a L a br B a d o r i a t y S e a Frederikshåb Igaliku U n g a v a Ivigtut B a y Julianehåb Cape Farewell Glaciers Hamilton Inlet 0 Grady Harbour Cartwright 500km Map Belle Isle 1. West Greenland and the full extent of the ice-floe drift. Strait of v N A GRINNELL G E Glaciers LAND R C Kane O E 0 25 50 75 100km Basin E C I N T d n C u L o R S A ELLESMERE A Cape LAND h t Alexander N Cape i Siorapaluk m Isabella D S Herbert I. Hakluyt I. Northumberland I. WolstenholmeSound Cape Parry Booth Sd. Cape Wechmar Cape Atholl Carey Is. Granville Bay Saunders I. Dalrymple I. o u Wolstenholme I . J o s S n d n e Cape York Crimson Cliffs Cape Dudley Digges D E V O N I S L A N D Cape Horsburgh B a f f i n Beechey I. Dundas B a Hr. Cape r r o w Cape Warrender Leopold S t r a B a y i t o u n d L a n c a s t e r S Wollaston I. Elwin Inlet Navy Board Inlet Cape Crawford Cape Hay SOMERSET Port Cape Liverpool Bowen t Cape Byam Martin ISLAND e l n t I e Cape Graham Moore l y n t d’s B l n a I o y Crteswell Bay a P t r F u r y n i e m Cape GarryB e a c h g d Batty Bay e A R e c n i r P BAFFIN ISLAND Bellot Strait Murchison G u l f o f Promontory B o o t h i a Map 2. Northwest Greenland and the area of the Arctic’s whaling cruise. vi POLARIS L i n c o l n Glaciers S e a Cape 0 100 200km Joseph Henry Repulse Harbor l Cape Unione n n a Wrangel Bayh C Newman Bay Cape Brevoort H A L L n Cape Sumner o s e L A N D b o Polaris Pen. R Polaris Bay Offley I. Hall’s Grave Lady Franklin Bay PetermannCape Tyson Johanna Fiord I. Cape Lieber CapeP Morton e t e r m a n n Cape Bryan Cape P e n . Bessels Fiord Carl Ritter Bay Hans I . Franklin I. Cape Constitution RINNELL Kennedy Channel G LAND Crozier I. Scoresby Bay Maury Bay Cape Fraser K a n e H u m b o l d t D Cape Hawks G l a c i e r B a s i n N Bache Pen. Cape Agassiz Cape Victoria A dnuoSseyaH L Rensselaer Bay D N Baird Inlet LEFIEL E Cape ING LAND Isabella Foulke Fiord E LLESMERELAND E Cape Alexander R Siorapaluk G Smith Sound M niffaB u r c h i Hakluyt I. s o yaB n S o u n d Northumberland I.