©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Ecuador & the Galápagos Islands

Northern Highlands p98 North Coast & Lowlands p246 p52 The Oriente Central p206 South Highlands Coast p130 p270

The Galápagos Islands p307

Cuenca & the Southern Highlands p171

Isabel Albiston, Jade Bremner, Brian Kluepfel, MaSovaida Morgan, Wendy Yanagihara PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to . . . . 4 QUITO...... 52 Salinas...... 161 Ecuador Map...... 6 La Mitad del Mundo. . . .. 95 Volcán Chimborazo. . . . 162 Riobamba ...... 164 Ecuador’s Volcán Pululahua...... 96 Top 20 ...... 8 Laguna de Colta...... 168 Guamote...... 169 Need to Know...... 18 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS. . . . . 98 Alausí...... 169 If You Like ...... 20 Cayambe...... 100 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Reserva Ecológica CUENCA & THE Itineraries ...... 26 Cayambe-Coca...... 101 SOUTHERN Oyacachi ...... 101 HIGHLANDS...... 171 Ecuador Outdoors . . . . 32 Otavalo...... 101 Cuenca...... 174 Galápagos Planning. . . . 39 Around Otavalo...... 108 Around Cuenca...... 186 Regions at a Glance. . . . 48 Reserva Ecológica Parque Nacional Cotacachi-Cayapas. . . . 112 Podocarpus...... 197 Ibarra...... 113 Zamora...... 199 La Esperanza ...... 116 Vilcabamba...... 200 Intag Valley...... 117 Zumba & the Peruvian Border...... 204

BARNA TANKO/SHUTTERSTOCK© Northern Carchi...... 119 Reserva Biológica Catacocha...... 204 Guandera...... 119 Macará & the El Ángel ...... 120 Peruvian Border...... 205 Tulcán...... 120 Western Andean THE ORIENTE. . . . 206 Slopes ...... 122 Lago Agrio...... 213 Mindo...... 122 Reserva Producción Cloud Forest Faunística Cuyabeno. . . . 215 Reserves & Lodges . . . . 128 Coca...... 216 Vía Auca...... 219 OTAVALO CRAFTS MARKET P104 CENTRAL Lower Río Napo ...... 219 HIGHLANDS. . . . . 130 Parque Nacional Machachi & Aloasí. . . . . 131 Yasuní...... 223

WILDESTANIMAL/SHUTTERSTOCK © Reserva Ecológica Parque Nacional Los Ilinizas...... 134 Sumaco Napo Galeras. . . . 226 Parque Nacional Cotundo & Archidona. . . . 227 Cotopaxi...... 135 Tena ...... 227 Latacunga...... 138 Misahuallí ...... 232 The Quilotoa Loop. . . . . 142 Upper Río Napo...... 235 Ambato ...... 147 Puyo...... 238 Baños...... 151 Macas...... 241 Ruta de las Cascadas. . . 157 Sucúa...... 244 Parque Nacional Gualaquiza...... 245 MANTA RAY P353 Sangay...... 159 Kapawi Ecolodge Guaranda...... 161 & Reserve ...... 245 Contents

UNDERSTAND

NORTH COAST & South of Guayaquil . . . 301 Ecuador Today ...... 356 LOWLANDS. . . . . 246 Reserva Ecológica History...... 358 Manglares Churute . . . . 301 Western Lowlands . . . . 248 Machala...... 302 Indigenous Ecuador. . . 368 Santo Domingo de Los Colorados ...... 248 Puerto Bolívar & Arts & Music...... 370 Jambelí ...... 303 The North Coast. . . . . 249 The Natural World . . . . 373 Zaruma...... 304 San Lorenzo ...... 250 Peru via Huaquillas. . . . . 305 Ecuadorian Cuisine . . . 379 San Miguel...... 251 Playa de Oro...... 252 Reserva Ecológica THE GALÁPAGOS SURVIVAL ISLANDS...... 307 Cotacachi-Cayapas. . . . . 253 GUIDE Esmeraldas...... 253 Isla Santa Cruz Atacames...... 255 (Indefatigable)...... 308 Directory A–Z...... 382 Tonsupa...... 257 Puerto Ayora...... 311 Súa...... 257 Islas Seymour & Transportation ...... 391 Mosquera...... 318 Same & Tonchigüe. . . . . 258 Language...... 397 Islas Plazas...... 319 Corredor Turistico Index...... 405 Galera-San Francisco . . . . 259 Islas Daphne...... 319 Muisne...... 259 Isla Santa Fé Map Legend...... 414 (Barrington)...... 319 Mompiche...... 260 Isla San Cristóbal Isla Portete...... 262 (Chatham)...... 319 Cojimíes...... 262 Puerto Baquerizo Canoa...... 262 Moreno...... 321 Bahía de Caráquez. . . . . 264 Isla Isabela Manta...... 267 (Albemarle)...... 326 Montecristi...... 269 Puerto Villamil ...... 328 Isla Fernandina (Narborough) ...... 332 SOUTH COAST. . . . 270 Isla Santiago (San Guayaquil...... 272 Salvador or James) . . . 332 Bosque Protector Isla Bartolomé ...... 333 Cerro Blanco...... 287 Isla Sombrero Chino. . . . 333 Ruta Spondylus . . . . . 288 Isla Rábida (Jervis). . . . . 333 SPECIAL Puerto López...... 288 Isla Floreana (Santa Parque Nacional María or Charles)...... 333 FEATURES Machalilla ...... 290 Isla Española (Hood). . . . 334 Ecuador Outdoors. . . . 32 Salango, Las Tunas Isla Genovesa (Tower). . . . 335 Galápagos Planning. . . . 39 & Ayampe ...... 292 Islas Marchena (Bindloe) Galápagos Wildlife. . . . 343 Olón ...... 293 & Pinta (Abington). . . . . 335 Montañita ...... 294 Isla Wolf (Wenman) & Isla Indigenous Ecuador. . . 368 Darwin (Culpepper). . . . . 336 Santa Elena Peninsula The Natural World . . . . 373 to Guayaquil...... 297 Understand the Salinas...... 298 Galápagos Islands. . . . 336 Ecuadorian Cuisine. . . 379 Playas...... 301 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26

Itineraries

Laguna de Cuicocha COLOMBIA •# •# Otavalo Lagunas de É

•# É •#

#– É Mojanda Puerto Mindo •# É

Ayora É Lower

QUITO#_ É Coca É

É É •# Río Napo

Galápagos Islands #– •# f# D É É Galápagos Islands #–

É #– É PA C I F I C Guayaquil •# É

O C E A N Ingapirca

É •#É Parque ÷# É Nacional •# PERU Cajas Cuenca

2 WEEKS Best of Ecuador

Colonial treasures, cloud forests, rainforests, teeming markets and wondrous wildlife are all on the menu of this action-packed journey around Ecuador. Begin the trip in Quito. Spend two days soaking up the architectural gems of the Old Town, then go 2½ hours north to Otavalo for its famous market (best on Satur- days). Spend the night there and squeeze in a hike out to the stunning lakes Laguna de Cuicocha or Lagunas de Mojanda. On the fourth day, go west (via Quito) to the lush cloud forests of Mindo. Overnight in a riverside or mountaintop lodge, then return to Quito for a flight to Cuenca, the colonial jewel of the south. Spend two days exploring 500-year-old churches and visiting the fairy tale-like setting of Parque Nacional Cajas, 30km to the west. If time allows, visit the Inca ruins of Ingapirca before continuing to Guayaquil for a flight to the Galápagos. Spend four days there, wildlife-watching and island-hopping. For the final part of the Ecuadorian adventure, fly back to Guayaquil and onward to Coca (via Quito), gateway to the Amazon. Spend three nights at a jungle lodge on the Lower Río Napo, one of the best places to marvel at Ecuador’s Amazonian wildlife. 27

#_QUITO

É

Volcán Cotopaxi

Quilotoa Loop R (5897m)

É É TRIP YOUR PLAN •# É Latacunga É É Volcán

Chimborazo Baños (6310m) R •# É É

#– É •# É Puyo

É •# Riobamba

It É i nerar Nariz

del Diablo

É •#É É •# Alausí

i es É

•# Ingapirca É PERU •# Cuenca

3 WEEKS Exploring the

Traveling along the spine of the Andes, you’ll take in sublime alpine scenery, laid-back villages and a mix of colonial and pre-Columbian wonders. Opportunities for hiking, trekking, mountain biking and climbing are superb. Start the highland adventure in Quito, where you can acclimatize to the altitude while exploring one of South America’s most fascinating capitals. After two nights in the city, head south for a night or two in a historic hacienda on the flanks of Volcán Coto- paxi, where you can horseback ride and hike; avid climbers can tackle one of Ecuador’s iconic peaks. Around day four, travel south to Latacunga and journey into the moun- tainous landscape of the Quilotoa Loop. This is a great place to hike between high-up indigenous villages, staying in simple guesthouses along the way. After two days spent in the clouds near Quilotoa, head to a slightly lower elevation and the delightful subtropical town of Baños, where you can soak in natural spring baths, book into a charming inn with views, and take a fabulous downhill bike ride past refreshing waterfalls to Puyo in the Oriente. After Baños, move on to Riobamba, an ideal base for setting out on a high-adrenaline mountain-bike ride or hike around Volcán Chimborazo. From Riobamba take a bus to Alausí, then take a train ride on the famed Nariz del Diablo, with its dramatic views of Chimborazo, El Altar, Laguna de Colta and other vistas dotting the Avenue of the Volcanoes. Returning to Alausí, con- tinue by bus to the marvelous colonial city of Cuenca. There, enjoy a few days taking in the colonial churches, peaceful plazas and the idyllic river setting before striking out for the Inca ruins of Ingapirca. You can visit by bus, organized day trip, or on a more challenging three-day hike along the Camino del Inca (Inca Trail), with gear and guides available in Cuenca. Afterwards, make your way back to Quito for a final night out (Zazu is a good choice, followed by drinks and dancing at La Juliana) and a big send-off to the great Andean experience. 28

Salinas •#

É

Riobamba Guaranda •# É É Parque Nacional

É •# ÷# Sangay É

Guamote •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É É

Atillo É •# •# Lagunas de Atillo

PA C I F I C •# Cuenca O C E A N

É It i nerar

Puyango

•# É Loja

i es •# É Parque Nacional

•# É

Catacocha É Podocarpus É ÷# •# PERU Vilcabamba

2 WEEKS Southern Ecuador

Heading south from Quito, you’ll soon find yourself in bustling market towns, remote indigenous villages and pristine national parks far from the touring crowds. Start your journey in the gateway town of Riobamba, a rather workaday mid-sized settlement that’s at its liveliest during its Saturday market. From here, take a detour west to Guaranda, a scenic town that’s the gateway up to Salinas, a fascinating and charm- ing country village where you can visit cooperatives producing chocolate, cheese, mush- rooms and wool products; or you can just take a walk or horseback ride through the pretty countryside. Stay overnight in the village before heading back through Riobamba and continuing east to Parque Nacional Sangay, a setting of magnificent volcanoes and diverse flora and fauna. Head back to Riobamba then south to the lovely Kichwa town of Guamote. Spend the night in the cozy community-run Inti Sisa, which is also a good place to arrange horseback rides or hikes in the pristine countryside. If possible, try to time your visit for Thursday, when a massive indigenous market takes over the town. After Guamote, travel south to Atillo for a couple of days of spectacular hiking around the crystalline Lagunas de Atillo. Afterwards, head back to Guamote, then south to Cuenca. After days of rugged traveling, pamper yourself with a stay in one of the city’s many fine guesthouses and a meal at one of its eclectic eateries. Recharged and refreshed, continue south to Loja, where you can sample one of the city’s specialties, cuy (guinea pig) – or, if you don’t fancy that, try its famous corn- and plantain-based delicacies. From Loja head east to the Parque Nacional Podocarpus, a massive park that’s home to astounding biodiversity and offers hikes through mesmerizing landscapes of páramo (high-altitude Andean grasslands) and cloud forest. Afterwards, go back through Loja and continue south to Vilcabamba. This pretty village offers some fine walks, cycling and horseback rides, although it’s also a perfect spot to simply enjoy the peaceful scenery. Next work your way down the western side of the Andes to Cataco- cha, a charming, little-visited highland town. Spend a day here, then head to Puyango to visit one of South America’s largest petrified forests. 29 KSENIARAGOZINA/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es NORADOA/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Ingapirca (p188)

Bottom: Riobamba Cathedral (p164) 30

Volcán COLOMBIA

Reventador Lago Agrio (3562m) •# É É QUITO R É San Rafael ÷#

•# É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN #_ Falls Reserva Producción ÷# Faunística Cuyabeno

É Reserva É •# •# Alto Coca É •# É f# Papallacta Lower

•# Coca É Río Napo Baeza

Tena •# É

It PERU i nerar

Shell •#

É

i es É É Kapawi •# Ecolodge & Macas Reserve •#

3 WEEKS Adventure in the Oriente

The Oriente is Ecuador’s slice of the Amazon, one of the world’s most biologically diverse regions. For adventurers, wildlife lovers and budding anthropologists, there’s much to discover here, from indigenous reserves to jungle lodges with an incredible array of plant and animal life. Start in Quito; pre-book jungle lodges you plan to stay at and load up on any needed supplies, then catch a bus southeast to Papallacta, a sparkling complex of thermal baths with magnificent mountain views on a clear day. With both high-end and budget options, this is a fine place to overnight before continuing east to Baeza, a pleasant base for hiking, biking, rafting, bird-watching and other activities. From there, go north to the thundering drama of photogenic San Rafael Falls – Ecuador’s highest falls. For spectacular views of nearby Volcán Reventador in action, make the hike up to the Reserva Alto Coca, a remote cloud-forest reserve with great hiking and bird-watching, plus rustic cabins with striking views of the volcano. Continue on to the gritty oil town of Lago Agrio; from here, head out to the Reserva de Producción Faunística Cuyabeno – a spectacular rainforest reserve packed with biodiversity. Spend a few days at the recommended Cuyabeno Lodge then travel back to Lago Agrio and on to Coca, another tiny river settlement turned oil boom town. Take a stroll along the river, then hook up with a jungle guide (best arranged beforehand in Quito) for a trip out to the Lower Río Napo, home to some of Ecuador’s finest jungle lodges. Here you’ll find superb wildlife-watching on hikes, canoe rides or climbs to the top of the jungle canopy. Get your fill of piranha fishing, caiman-spotting and bird-watching, then head back to Coca and down to Tena. This river town is an ideal spot to gain a different perspective on the rainforest: namely, by rushing past on a white-water rafting trip through spec- tacular Class IV rapids. If time allows, you can tack on a trip to the less-visited southern Oriente, via Macas. The Achuar-run Kapawi Ecolodge & Reserve (reachable by char- tered aircraft from Shell) is a wonderfully remote piece of Amazonia. 31

•# Same É

•# Mompiche Isla Portete •# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

PA C I F I C O C E A N É •#É Río Muchacho Canoa •#É É

Bahía de Caráquez •# It

i nerar É i es Los Frailes Isla de la Plata •#É •#

•# Agua Blanca f# É •# Puerto López •# Ayampe É Olón •# Montañita •#

10 DAYS Surf & Sun

Ecuador’s charming coastal villages and attractive beaches draw a wide mix of travelers, including sun-seekers, surfers and seafood lovers. Start in the laid-back beach spots near Same (sah-may) and the Corredor Turistico Galera-San Francisco on the north coast. After the long journey from Quito, book into a beachfront cabaña (cabin), walk on the beach, and get your fill of seafood. On day two, catch a bus down to Mompiche, a beloved haunt for surfers and paradise-seekers alike with a long brown-sugar beach, big waves and a fun traveler scene that still hasn’t be- come overrun. Take a whale-watching day trip from here or visit the far-off island para- dise of Isla Portete before continuing south. Next up is Canoa, a slow-moving beach town with a long sandy stretch backed by forested cliffs. Canoa invites lingering: you can take surf lessons, study Spanish and ride horses or cycle to deserted beaches nearby. There are some fine beachfront guesthouses and decent restaurants. While in Canoa, leave time for a visit to the Río Muchacho, a working organic farm, at which you can take a tour, stay overnight and enjoy the fantas- tic food grown right on-site. On day six, continue south to Bahía de Caráquez, where you can explore mangroves, look for frigate birds and take an ecocity tour. Spend the night, then continue on day seven to Puerto López (you’ll probably have to transfer at Manta). This sleepy town is the gateway to the Isla de la Plata, a fine place to see blue-footed boobies if you’re not heading to the Galápagos. In season (mid-June to early October), there’s also good whale- watching. Other area attractions include the stunning beach of Los Frailes, the indig- enous community of Agua Blanca, and surrounding rainforest with memorable hiking and horseback riding. Spend your last two days in Montañita, a surf town with a serious party vibe. If you’re looking for something more mellow, stop instead in Ayampe or Olón. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 403

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Jade Bremner Gracias to Destination Editor MaSovaida Morgan Many thanks to the travelers who used the last for this project and being so helpful along the way. edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Thanks also to local expert Mario Xavier for his advice and interesting anecdotes: outstanding knowledge and passion for Ecuador, plus Alfredo Martí Albiol, Bert Waslander, Carlos Manrique his tips and recommendations, and last but not least, de Lara Cadiñanos, Christopher Shingleton, Claudia thanks to everyone working hard behind the scenes – Baldwin, Eize & Geeske Siegersma, Elise van Vliet, including Cheree Broughton and Neill Coen. Esther Kalabis, Eva Franc, Geoff Goodwin, Ginny Sutcliffe, Heather Scott, Heather Utteridge, Ingrid Brian Kluepfel Astfalk, Linda E Bayless, Manuela Casanova, Mark Thanks to MaSovaida Morgan, Sandra Patiño, Cesar White, Maya Wodnicka , Michael Ten Bhomer, Ned ‘La Tortuga’ Soledispa (best taxista ever), Ingo, Cresswell, Oliver Hiller, Renata Kolar, Sarah Astfalk, Carlos Zorrilla, Sandra Statz, Polivio Perez, Diana Shanelle Reilly, Theresa Astfalk, Tim Urban, Yolanda and Vlady, Ignacio de la Torre at La Roulotte, Goyon Guaman Benchwick, and my amazing wife, Paula Zorrilla, who lets me go on these amazing adventures as long as I WRITER THANKS bring back cool presents from the airports. Isabel Albiston MaSovaida Morgan Many thanks to everyone I met along the road who Deepest thanks to the countless kind souls who made my research trip so enjoyable, especially Jamie helped me navigate this magical place – in particular, Mitchell and her family, Galo Brito and Carlos at Pro Jaci Bruns, Regis St Louis, Jackie Vazquez, Erick Bici, Luis at Julio Verne, Anibal Tenemasa, Joaquín Ortiz, Luis Jaramillo and the Galaven crew. Thanks Andino, Belén Arellano, Jazmín Arellano, Jesús Alcalá, also to my co-writers for a smooth project while I Anita Hughes and Fernando Vallejo. Thanks also to wore two hats, Simon Williamson for showing mercy, MaSovaida Morgan and my co-writers. and Evan Godt for pulling strings with the quickness. As always, gratitude and love to Ny, Ty and Haj for always carrying me. 404 Wendy Yanagihara ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Many thanks to Jerry, Edgar, Carlos, and Gennaro Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson in Cuenca; Lauro in Saraguro; Rodrigo in Baeza; BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of and all of my fantastic guides in Amazonía: Andrés, the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Gabriel, Fabricio, Livio, Victor, Carlos, and Sergio. ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. I am grateful most of all to Luis Hernández and

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Fernando Vaca for their invaluable logistics help Cover photograph: Baby sea lion on Isla Santiago, and expertise. Thanks also to Laura, Victoria, and Galápagos Islands, MindStorm/Shutterstock© John, my support crew at home.

written by Regis St Louis, Greg Assisting Editors Katie THIS BOOK Benchwick, Michael Grosberg Connolly, Samantha Forge, Lou This 11th edition of Lonely and Luke Waterson. This McGregor, Sarah Reid, Sarah Planet’s Ecuador & the guidebook was produced by Stewart, Sam Wheeler, Simon Galápagos Islands guidebook the following: Williamson was researched and written by Destination Editors Assisting Cartographer Isabel Albiston, Jade Bremner, MaSovaida Morgan James Leversha Brian Kluepfel, MaSovaida Product Editor Sandie Kestell Cover Researcher Naomi Morgan and Wendy Yanagi- Senior Cartographer Corey Parker hara, and curated by Isabel. Hutchison Thanks to Jessica Ryan, The previous edition was Book Designer Gwen Cotter Saralinda Turner ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 405

Index

A Museo del Banco Central travel to/from 157 boat tours accommodations 382-3, see ‘Pumapungo’ 175-7 travel within 157 Atacames 255 also individual locations Museo Manuel Agustín Baños village 190 Galápagos Islands 40-2 Achupallas 189 Landivar 177 bathrooms 388 Guayaquil 278 Museo Presley Norton 277 activities 20, 32-8, see also beaches 11, 22, 11 Isla Salango 293 Salango Archaeological individual activities & Bahía de Caráquez 264 Mompiche 261 locations Museum 293 Canoa 262-3 boat travel 392, 393-4 addresses 387 archaeological sites, see Cerro de las Tijeretas 324 books 356, 364, 365, 366, Afro-Ecuadorian music 372 also historic buildings & sites Cojimíes 262 367 Agato 108 Archaeological Park 177 Isla Española 335 bird-watching 375 Agua Blanca 291 Galápagos Islands 341 Ingapirca 188, 29 Isla Genovesa 335 Aguas Termales de history 361, 366 Parque Nacional Isla San Cristóbal 320, 321 Guayllabamba 168 indigenous culture 364, Machalilla 290-2, 291 Isla Santa Cruz 309, 310 Ahuano 236-8 368 Pucará del Salitre 135 Manta 267 air travel 391, 392-3, 393 nature 378 Archidona 227 Parque Nacional Alausí 169-70 border crossings 392 architecture 370 Machalilla 292 Aloasí 131, 134 Colombia 121, 214, 250, colonial period 20, 54-63, Playa Negra 261 altitude sickness 72 392 362, 370 Puerto Ayora 311 Amazon River 363 Peru 197, 222, 305-6, 392 area codes 19, 388 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno Ambato 147-50, Bosque Protector Cerro 148 Arenillas 305 321-2 amphibians 375-6 Blanco 287-8 art galleries, see museums Salinas 298 bottlenose dolphins 344, amusement parks 61 & galleries Biblián 190 344-5 animals 343-54, 373-6, arts 370-2, see also crafts bicycle travel, see cycling, budget 19 343-54, see also birds, Atacames 255-7, mountain biking 256 bungee jumping, see individual species birds 346-9, 374, 13, 15, 16, 360, 361 puenting Apuela 118 35, 346-9 ATMs 386 bus travel 392, 394, 395 archaeological museums, bird-watching 33-4, 374, 375 ayahuasca 220 bushwalking, see hiking see also museums & Isla Española 334-5 galleries Ayampe 292-3 business hours 19, 386 Isla Floreana 334 Agua Blanca 291 Azogues 190 butterflies 122-3 Isla Genovesa 335 Archaeological Museum Isla Isabela 328 291-2 B Isla San Cristóbal 321 Casa del Alabado 59 C Baeza 210-12 Jambelí 304 Cabañas San Isidro 210 Museo Antropológico y de Bahía de Caráquez 264- Arte Contemporáneo Junín 119 Cabañas Yankuam 200 7, 265 272 Loja 194 cable cars 122 bananas 302, 380 Museo Arqueológico del Macará 205 Cajabamba 169 Banco Central 267 Baños 16, 151-7, 152-3, 16 Macas 243 Camino del Inca 189 accommodations 155-6 Museo Arqueológico y Mindo 16, 123, 124, 16 camping 382 activities 153-4 Etnográfico Atahualpa Parque Nacional Cañar 190 113 courses 155 Cotopaxi 136 Canoa 262-4 Museo de las Culturas drinking & nightlife 156-7 Parque Nacional Yasuní canyoning 38 Aborígenes 177 festivals & events 155 223 car travel 392, 394-5 food 156 Podocarpus National Park Carnaval 23, 72, 161, 179, information 157 197-8 279, 24 shopping 157 Reserva Buenaventura Map Pages 000 Catacocha 204-5 sights 152-3 305 Photo Pages 000 cathedrals, see churches & tours 155 Santay Island 278 cathedrals 406 caving 38 Church of El Carmen de Monasterio Museo Santa Darwin Lake 326-7 Cueva de los Tayos 119 la Asunción 174 Catalina de Siena 60 de Orellana, Francisco 363 Cuevas de Jumandí 227 Church of La Merced Correa, Rafael 356-7, 366-7 dengue fever 385 Gualaquiza 245 264 Corredor Turistico disabilities, travelers with Nueva Tarquí 245 Church of San Blas 175 Galera-San Francisco 388-9 259 Cayambe 100 Church of San Francisco diving 35-6, see also

INDEX INDEX 174 Cotacachi 111-12 cell phones 18, 388 snorkeling Church of San Sebastián Cotundo 227 cemeteries Galápagos Islands 193 courses, see also individual 45, 44 Cementerio (Otavalo) Church of Santo locations, language

C-F Montañita 294  102-3 Domingo 193 courses Cementerio de Tulcán Puerto Ayora 313-14 El Sagrario 175 dance 69  120 Puerto Baquerizo Iglesia Cristo Salvador meditation 202 Moreno 323 City Cemetery 329 (Guayaquil) 277 crafts, see also markets Puerto López 289 Iglesia de la Compañía central highlands 49, 130- chumbis 190 dolphins 344, 344-5 de Jesús 56-7, 88 70, 132-3 panama hats 183, 269, Dos Mangas 296 Iglesia de Santo 365 accommodations 130 driving, see car travel Domingo (Guayaquil) tagua carvings 104, climate 130 dry forests 378 273 168, 296 highlights 132-3 DVDs 387 Iglesia de Santo credit cards 386 hiking 130 Domingo (Ibarra) 113 Cuenca 10, 49, 171-86, national parks & Iglesia de Santo 176-7, 11 reserves 131 Domingo (Quito) 60 E accommodations 171, ecology 339-41 travel seasons 130 Iglesia La Merced 61-2 180-2 economy 356-7, 366-7 Cerro de las Tijeretas Iglesia San Jacinto del climate 171 321, 324 Morro 301 El Altar 14, 159, 14 courses 179 Cerro Santa Ana 273 La Balbanera 169 El Ángel 120 drinking & nightlife 184 Chachi people 369 Our Lady of Macas El Bosque Petrificado entertainment 184 Puyango 304 cheeses 162 Cathedral 242 festivals & events 179-80 El Chaco 212 chicha 236 Santuario de Guápulo 67 food 171, 182-4 El Chaupi 134 children, travel with 62, Templo de Lourdes 204 383 climate 18, 23-5, see also highlights 172-3 El Cisne 198 cholera 385 individual regions history 174 El Junco Lagoon 320 Chordeleg 189 climbing 21-2, see also information 185-6 El Lechero 102 Chugchilán 145-6 hiking shopping 185 El Morro 298, 301 chumbis 190 Baños 154 sights 174-9 El Panecillo 61 churches & cathedrals, El Altar 14, 159, 14 tours 179 El Progreso 320-1 see also convents & Latacunga 139 travel seasons 171 electricity 383 monasteries Quito 68 travel to/from 186 embassies 384 Basílica de Nuestra Reserva Ecológica Los travel within 186 emergencies 19 Señora de Agua Santa Ilinizas 134 culture, see indigenous language 400 152 Volcán Chimborazo peoples & culture environmental issues 368 Basílica del Voto 162-3, 165 currency 18, 366 Galápagos Islands 339-41 Nacional 60-1 Volcán Imbabura 116 cycling 393, see also mangroves 266 Basílica (Riobamba) 164 mountain biking Volcán Pichincha 68 mining 261 Basilica Santisima Virgen Gualaquiza 245 cloud forests 128-9, 376-7 oil 364-5, 367 de Montserrat 269 Puerto Ayora 314 Coca 216-19, 217 Esmeraldas 253-5, 254 Capilla de Cantuña 59 Puerto Baquerizo Cofán people 369 events, see festivals & Catedral de la Moreno 323 coffee 194 events Inmaculada Puerto Villamil 329 Concepción 175 Cojimíes 262 evolution 338 Quito 67-8, 69 Catedral consulates 384 exchange rates 19 Metropolitana 55 convents & monasteries, Riobamba 165 Cathedral Bolívar 276-7 see also churches & Ruta de las Cascadas cathedrals 158 Cathedral de Ibarra 113 F Convento de San Diego Vilcabamba 201 Ferrocarril Transandino 170 Cathedral (Loja) 193 62-3 festivals & events 23-5, Cathedral (Riobamba) Convento San Agustín see also individual 164, 29 60 D locations dance 90 Iglesia y Convento de Carnaval 23, 72, 161, 179, dangers, see safety 279, 24 Map Pages 000 San Francisco 59 Darwin, Charles 311, 332, Fiesta de la Mamá Negra Photo Pages 000 Monasterio Museo del Carmen Alto 59-60 337 25, 139 407 Fiestas de Quito 25, 72-3 climate 270 Vilcabamba 200-1 Isla de la Plata 292 Inti Raymi 24, 104, 5 drinking & nightlife 284-5 Volcán Chimborazo 163 Isla Española 334-5 Semana Santa 23, 72, entertainment 285 historic buildings & sites, Isla Fernandina 332 180, 24 festivals & events 279 see also archaeological Isla Floreana 333-4 films 356 food 282-4 sites Isla Genovesa 335 Muro de las Lágrimas fish 353 history 272 Isla Isabela 326-32, 327

328-9 INDEX fishing 255, 299 information 286 Isla Lobos 321 Palacio Municipal 276 food 379-80, 225, see also shopping 285-6 Isla Marchena 335-6 Post Office Bay 334 individual locations sights 272-7 Isla Pinta 335-6 Tagus Cove 327 chicha 236 tours 277-9 Isla Portete 262  F-L history 22, 358-67

 costs 384 travel seasons 270 Isla Rábida 333 colonial era 362 internet resources 380 travel to/from 286-7 Isla Salango 292 discovery of oil 364-5 language 398-9 travel within 287 Isla San Cristóbal 319- Galápagos Islands 336-7 local specialties 195 Guayasamín, Oswaldo 26, 320 359-61 forts 273 63, 370 Isla Santa Cruz 308-18, independence 362-3 guinea pigs 56, 79, 112, 310 pre-Inca period 358-9 143, 195 Isla Santa Fé 319 G Spanish conquistadors Isla Santiago 332-3, galleries, see museums & 361-2 327 Isla Seymour 318-19 galleries H hitchhiking 395 Isla Sombrero Chino 333 Galápagos fur seals 344, hammerhead sharks 353, holidays 386-7 344 352-3 Isla Wolf 336 Holy Week 23, 72, 180, 24 Galápagos Islands 50, handicrafts, see crafts Islas Daphne 319 horseback riding 38 307-54, 308, 39, 42, health 384-5 Islas Plazas 319 Baños 154 46, 47 hiking 21-2, 33, see also itineraries 26-31, 54, , Dos Mangas 296 26 accommodations 307 climbing 27, 28, 30, 31 Parque Nacional climate 307 Baeza 210 Machalilla 292 food 307 Baños 154 Vilcabamba 200-1 highlights 308 Bosque Protegido J hot springs, see thermal Jambelí 303-4 history 336-7 Washapamba 191 springs Jima 190 planning 39-47, 341 Camino del Inca 189 Huaoranis people 369 jungle lodges tours 40-2 Cañon del Toachi 142 Huaquillas 305-6 Río Napo region (lower) travel seasons 40, 307 Isinliví 146 Huayna Capac 359-60 219-23, 219 Isla de la Plata 292 travel to/from 341-2 Río Napo region (upper) travel within 342 Isla Santa Cruz 309 235-8 wildlife 343-54, 8-9, 43, Laguna de Cuicocha I jungle trips 212-13 112-13 Ibarra 113-16, 114 44, 343-54 Baños 155 Laguna Quilotoa 143-4 iguanas 9, 319, 329, 332, Galápagos sea lions 344, Canoa 263 Lagunas de Mojanda 110 350, 8-9, 44, 350 43, 345 Coca 216 Mindo 16 Ilumán 108 gardens, see parks & Puyo 239 gardens Otavalo 103 immigration 391 Tena 230 gay travelers 85, 386 Papallacta 207 indigenous peoples & Junín 119 geography 354, 373 Parque Nacional culture 22, 175, 368-9 geology 337-9, 354 Cotopaxi 136 Chachi people 369 giant tortoises 321, 329, Parque Nacional Cofán people 369 K 350, 351 Machalilla 292 Huaoranis people 369 Kapawi 245 Girón 190 Parque Nacional Kichwa people 368 kayaking 36, 45-6 Podocarpus 13, glaciers 135 Saraguro people 191 Baeza 210 197-9, 13 green sea turtles 350, 37, Shuar people 369 Puerto Baquerizo Parque Nacional Sumaco Tsáchilas people 249 Moreno 323 44, 350-1 Napo Galeras 226 Ingapirca 188, 29 Tena 229-30 Grutas de la Paz 119 Patate 151 Gualaceo 188-9 insurance 385 Kichwa language 398 Quilotoa Loop 12, 144, 12 Gualaquiza 245 Intag Valley 117-19 Kichwa people 368 Refugio de Vida Silvestre killer whales 344 Guamote 169 Pasochoa 97 internet access 385 Guano 168 Reserva Biológica Bilsa internet resources 19, 388 Guaranda 161 259 Inti Raymi 24, 104, 5 L Guayaquil 16, 272-87, 274- Reserva Ecológica Isinliví 146-7 La Chocolatera 298 5, 281, 16 Cayambe-Coca 101 Isla Bartolomé 333 La Esperanza 116-17 accommodations 279-82 Reserva Ecológica Los Isla Corazón 265 La Mitad del Mundo activities 272-7 Ilinizas 134 Isla Darwin 336 95-6, 89 408 La Moya 189 Machala 302-3, 303 Riobamba 165 Museo Alberto Mena La Punta 236-8 Machay 158 Quito 67-8 Caamaño 58 La Rotonda 273 magazines 387 Volcán Chimborazo Museo Bahía de La Virgen del Cisne 198 Mahuad, Jamil 365-6 163, 165 Caráquez 264-5 Lago Agrio 213-14 malaria 385 mountaineering 34-5, see Museo Camilo Egas 62 Laguna de Colta 168-9 mammals 344-5, 374-5 also climbing, hiking Museo Casa de Sucre

INDEX INDEX 57-8 Laguna de Cuicocha mangroves 266, 378 Muisne 259-60 museums & galleries, see Museo de Arte 112-13, 34 Manta 267-9, 268 also archaeological Colonial 62 Laguna de las Ninfas 311 manta rays 353, 2 museums Museo de Arte L-M Laguna de San Pablo 108  marimba 251, 372 Capilla de Cantuña 59 Moderno 174

,Laguna Pañacocha 222  marine iguanas 329, 332, Capilla del Hombre 63 Museo de Arte 225 350, 8-9, 343 Casa de la Cultura 139 Religioso 164 Laguna Quilotoa 143 markets 20 Casa de los Marqueses Museo de Ciencias Lagunas de Atillo 160 Alausí 170 de Miraflores 139 Naturales (Ambato) 147 Lagunas de Mojanda Ambato 147 Casa Museo 109-10 Catacocha 204-5 Guayasamín 63 Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Quito) 67 land iguanas 319, 350, Cuenca 185 Casa Museo María , Museo de la Ciudad 44 350 Guamote 169 Augusta Urrutía 57 language 18, 397-402 (Cuenca) 175 Latacunga 139 Casa y Mausoleo de language courses 385 Montalvo 147 Museo de la Ciudad Otavalo 17, 101, 104, Baños 155 (Quito) 59 2, 17 Centro Comunitaria de Cuenca 179 Educación Ambiental Museo de la Ciudad Riobamba 164 (Riobamba) 165 Montañita 294 Miguel Cifuentes Salasaca 150 Museo de la Cultura Otavalo 103 Arias 311 Saquisilí 147 Lojana 193 Quito 68-9 Centro Cultural Saraguro 191 Esmeraldas 254 Museo de la Música 193 Las Grietas 314 Zumbahua 143 Centro Cultural Ibarra Museo de la Musica Las Lagunas 190 measures 387 113 Popular Guayaquileña Las Tunas 292-3 Mera 158 Centro Cultural Julio Jaramillo 273 Latacunga 138-42, 140-1 Mindo 122-7 Itchimbia 62 Museo de las Culturas 111 lava lizards 350, 351 accommodations 125-6 Centro Cultural Museo del Agua-Yaku 62 lava tunnels 309 activities 123 Metropolitano 55 legal matters 385 Centro de Arte Museo del Monasterio food 126-7 de las Conceptas 175 León Dormido 319-20 Contemporáneo 61 information 127 Museo del Monasterio lesbian travelers 85, 386 Centro Interamericano sights 122-3 de Artes Populares de Madres lighthouses 273 tours 123 177-8 Concepcionistas 193 literature 370-1, see also travel to/from 127 Centro Visitantes 135 Museo del Pueblo books travel within 127 Convento de San Diego Salasaca 150 Loja 191-7, , 192 21 mineral springs, see 62-3 Museo en Miniatura accommodations 194-5 thermal springs Convento San Agustín ‘Guayaquil en la drinking & nightlife 196 mines 304 60 Historia’ 272-3 festivals & events 194 Misahuallí 232-5 El Museo Fábrica Textil Museo Etnoarqueológico 239 food 195-6 Mitad del Mundo 95, 89 Imbabura 108 Museo Franciscano 59 information 196 mobile phones 18, 388 Galería Arte de Tigua 142 sights 192-4 Galería Luís Potosí Museo Fray Enrique Mocha 151 Mideros 152-3 tours 194 113-14 Mompiche 260-2 Museo Fray Pedro travel to/from 196-7 Interpretation Center money 18, 19, 306, 386 Bedón 60 travel within 196-7 321 money changers 306 Museo Historico de Los Gemelos 309-10 Los Amantes de Sumpa Montañita 294-7 298 Montecristi 269 lowlands 50, 246, 247 Montecristi 269 MACCO 216 Museo Interactivo de Ciencia 62 Mosquera 318-19 MAPRAE 311 Museo Municipal 277 M motorcycle travel 392, Mindalae – Museo Macará 205 394-5 Etnográfico de Museo Nacional 63 mountain biking 35 Museo Nahim Isaias 273 Macas 241-4, 242 Artesanía de Ecuador Machachi 131, 134 Baños 154 66-7 Museo Pictórico Mindo 123 Monasterio Museo del Edmundo Martínez 148 Otavalo 103 Carmen Alto 59-60 Museo Provincial Casa Monasterio Museo Santa del Portal 147 Map Pages 000 Parque Nacional Cotopaxi 136 Catalina de Siena 60 Museo Solar Inti Ñan Photo Pages 000 Puerto López 288 Mundo Juvenil 62 95-6 409 Museos Casa de la Nuevo Rocafuerte 222-3 Parque El Ejido 63 Playas 301 Cultura Numa Pompilio Llona 293 Parque Etnobotánico Plaza Grande 55, 88-9 Ecuatoriana 63 Omaere 238 Plaza Lagos 285 Museum (Chordeleg) Parque Histórico plazas 189 O Guayaquil 277 Malecón 2000 272 Parque Histórico oil industry 364-5, 367 Parque Itchimbia 62 Guayaquil 277 Olón 293-4 Malecón El Salado 277 Parque La Carolina 67 INDEX Parque Calderón 174-5 Plaza de la opening hours 19, 386 Parque La Libertad 164 Independencia 193 Parque Central 193 Oriente 49, 206-45, 208-9 Parque Maldonado 164 Prohibido Museo de Arte accommodations 206 Parque La Merced 113

Parque Recreacional 242  M-Q Extremo 178 climate 206 Parque Pedro Moncayo Quinta de Juan Montalvo Parque Recreacional 113  food 206 Jipiro 194 149 Plaza de San Francisco highlights 208-9 Quito Observatory 66 Parque Universitario 174 travel seasons 206 PUEAR 194 Tahuantinsuyo Weaving Plaza de San Sebastián Workshop 108 Otavalo 17, 101-8, 102 Parque Vicente León 139 174 Templo del Sol 96-7 accommodations 105 Paseo de los Monos 238 Plaza Grande 55, 88-9 Whale Museum 298-9 courses 103 Quinta de Juan León Plaza Lagos 285 Mera 148 music 365, 371-2 drinking & nightlife 107 Plaza San Francisco Río Yanuncay 179 música folklórica 371 entertainment 107 (Quito) 58-9 food 105-7 Parque Nacional Cajas Plaza Santo Domingo shopping 107 186-8, 187 (Loja) 193 N sights 101-3 Parque Nacional Cotopaxi Plaza Santo Domingo National Assembly 63, 66 10, 135-8, 136, 10, 32 tours 103-4 (Quito) 60 national parks 377, 378, Parque Nacional Machalilla travel to/from 107-8 politics 356-7, 364, 365-6 see also cloud forests, 290-2, 291 polleras 175 parks & gardens, Oyacachi 101 Parque Nacional population 357 reserves Ozogoche 160 Podocarpus 13, 197-9, postal services 386 Parque Nacional Cajas 13 Pozo Salinas 329 186-8, 187 Parque Nacional Sangay P public holidays 386-7 Parque Nacional painting 370 159-60 Cotopaxi 10, 135-8, puenting 38 Quito School of Art 371 Parque Nacional Sumaco 136, 10, 32 Napo Galeras 226-7 Puerto Ayora 311-18, 312- Tigua paintings 145 Parque Nacional Parque Nacional Yasuní 10, 13, 41 Llanganates 151 paja toquilla hats 183, accommodations 315-16 269, 365 223, 226, 10 Parque Nacional activities 311-14 Palacio Arzobispal 55 pasillo 371 Machalilla 290-2, 291 drinking & nightlife 317 Palacio de Gobierno 55 passports 391 Parque Nacional Patate 151 food 316-17 Podocarpus 13, panama hats, see paja Paute 190 information 317-18 197-9, 13 toquilla hats Peguche 110-11 shopping 317 Parque Nacional Sangay paño 175 sights 311-14 159-60 Papallacta 12, 207, 210, 12 Pelileo 151 tours 314-15 Parque Nacional paragliding 298 Peña de Shiriculapo 204 travel to/from 318 Sumaco-Galeras 210 Canoa 263 Peru 305-6 travel within 318 Parque Nacional Sumaco Ibarra 114 petrified forests 304 Puerto Baquerizo Moreno Napo Galeras 226-7 Puerto López 289 Píllaro 151 321-6, 322 Parque Nacional Yasuní San Pedro 298 planning, see also 10, 223, 226, individual regions Puerto Bolívar 303-4 10 páramo 377 newspapers 387 budgeting 19 Puerto Egas 332 Paredones 189 calendar of events 23-5 Puerto López 288-90 north coast 50, 246-69, 247 parks & gardens, see also accommodations 246 national parks children, travel with Puerto Velasco Ibarra 334 62, 383 climate 246 Armonía Orchid Garden Puerto Villamil 328-32 food 246 123 Ecuador basics 18-19 Pulinguí San Pablo 163 highlights 247 Jardín Botánico 67 Ecuador’s regions 48-50 Punta Espinoza 332 travel seasons 246 Jardín Botánico las internet resources 19 Punta Suárez 15, 334-5 northern highlands 48, Orquídeas 238 itineraries 26-31, 54, 26, Puyango 304 98-129, 99 Parque 21 de Abril 164 27, 28, 30, 31 Puyo 238-41, 239, 225 accommodations 98 Parque Acuático Los repeat visitors 60 climate 98 Elenes 168 travel seasons 18, 23-5 Parque Botánico 244 Playa de Oro 252-3 Q food 98 Quilotoa 143-4 Parque del Centenario Playa Mansa 311 highlights 99 Quilotoa Loop 12, 142-7, 277 Playa Negra 261 travel seasons 98 143, 12 410 Quisapincha 151 Reserva Producción Riobamba 164-8, 166-7 southern highlands 49, Quito 9, 48, 52-95, 53, Faunística Cuyabeno Ruta de las Cascadas 157-9 171-205, 172-3 9, 88-9 215-16 Ruta Spondylus 288-97 accommodations 171 accommodations 52, reserves 378 food 171 73-9 Bosque Nublado Santa highlights 172-3 Lucía 128 activities 67-8 S national parks 174 safety 250, 387

INDEX INDEX Bosque Protector Cerro children, travel with 62 travel seasons 171 Blanco 287-8 Cuenca 185 climate 52 spa treatments 154 Congal Bio-Station 260 Galápagos Islands 46-7 courses 68-9 Spanish language 18, Jorupe Reserve 205 Guayaquil 286 Q-T drinking & nightlife 397-402  Kapawi Reserve 245 Quito 92 85-7 Súa 257-8 Refugio de Vida Silvestre Salango 292-3  entertainment 87, 90 Sucúa 244-5 Pasochoa 97 Salasaca 150-1 festivals & events 72-3 Sullivan Bay 332 Refugio Ecológico Tzanka Salinas (central highlands) food 52, 79-85 surfing 36 199 161-2 highlights 53 Canoa 263 Reserva Biológica Bilsa Salinas (south coast) history 54 259 298-300 Isla Portete 262 itineraries 54 Mompiche 261 Reserva Biológica Sally Lightfoot crabs 353, Mariscal Sucre 75-8, Guandera 119-20 352 Montañita 15, 294, 81-3, 76 Reserva Biológica Jatun Same 258-9 15, 36 new town 63-7, Sacha 236 64-5 San Carlos 210 Puerto Ayora 314 old town 54-63, 73-5, Reserva Biológica San Francisco 158 Puerto Baquerizo 79-81, 56-7 Maquipucuna 128 Moreno 323 San Lorenzo 250-1 safety 92 Reserva Buenaventura Puerto López 288 San Miguel 251-2 shopping 90-1 305 Puerto Villamil 329 San Rafael Falls 211, 224 sights 54-67 Reserva de Producción sustainability 162 de Fauna Chimborazo sanjuanito 372 tourist information 92 swimming 168, 199 162 Santa Elena Peninsula tours 69, 71-2 Reserva Ecológica al 297-306 travel seasons 52 Bosque Paraíso 245 Santa Rosa 305 T travel to/from 92-3 Reserva Ecológica Santay Island 278 Tapichalaca Reserve 204 travel within 93-5 Antisana 210 Santo Domingo de Los taxis 395 walking tours 70, 70 Reserva Ecológica Colorados 248-9 TelefériQo 13, 61, 13 Cayambe-Coca 101, Saquisilí 147 telephone services 18, 388 212 Saraguro 190-1 R Reserva Ecológica Tena 227-32, 228 Saraguro people 191 rafting, see white-water Cotacachi-Cayapas accommodations 230-1 rafting 112-13, 253 sculpture 370 activities 229-30 rainforests 376 Reserva Ecológica El Semana Santa 23, 72, drinking & nightlife 232 180, Refugio de Vida Silvestre Ángel 120 24 entertainment 232 Pasochoa 97 Shalalá 145 Reserva Ecológica Los food 231-2 religion 357 Shuar people 369 Ilinizas 134-5 information 232 reptiles 350-1, 375-6 Sigchos 146 Reserva Ecológica sights 229-30 Reserva Biológica Bilsa Manglares Churute Sigsig 189-90 tours 230 259 301-2 smoking 387 travel to/from 232 Reserva Biológica Reserva Ecológico de snorkeling 35-6, see also travel within 232 Guandera 119-20 Manglares Cayapas- diving Mataje 250-1 thermal springs Reserva Biológica Jatun Isla de la Plata 292 Sacha 236 Reserva Ecologico Aguas Hediondas 121 Isla Floreana 334 Reserva Ecológica Jama-Coaque 263 Aguas Termales de Isla Isabela 327, 328 Cayambe-Coca 101, 212 Reserva Geobotánica Guayllabamba 168 Isla San Cristóbal 321 Reserva Ecológica Pululahua 96 Apuela 118 Las Grietas 314 Cotacachi-Cayapas Reserva Producción Baños 153-4 Puerto Baquerizo 112-13, 253 Faunística Cuyabeno Baños village 190 215-16 Moreno 323, 324 Reserva Ecológica Los Chachimbiro hot springs Puerto Villamil 329 Ilinizas 134-5 Tapichalaca Reserve 204 112 Río Chota Valley 119 south coast 50, 270-306, Reserva Ecológica Papallacta 12, 207, 12 Manglares Churute 271 Río Napo region (lower) Volcán Chiles 121 301-2 219-23, accommodations 270 219 Tigua 142-3, 145 Río Napo region (upper) climate 270 time 18, 388 235-8 food 270 tipping 386 Map Pages 000 Río Negro 158 highlights 271 Tisaleo 151 Photo Pages 000 Río Verde 157-9 travel seasons 270 411 toilets 388 treehouses 321 Cascada el Palto 201 Pozo Villamil 329 Tonchigüe 258-9 trekking see hiking Cascada Las Culebrillas Rancho Primicias 309 Tonsupa 257 Tren de la Libertad 117 245 Refugio Ecológico Tzanka tourist information 388 truck travel 396 Cascada Las Latas 235 199 tours 395-6, see also boat Tsáchilas people 249 Cascada Nambillo 122 Reserva Alto Coca 212-13 tours tubing 38 Cascada Poderosa 198 Turtle Bay 321

Atacames 255 Tulcán 120-2 Cascadas de Peguche wildlife-watching 21, see INDEX Ambato 149 Tuncarta 190 110 also whale-watching, Baños 155 Chismosa Waterfalls 198 wildlife reserves & typhoid 385 sanctuaries, zoos Coca 216-17 tzantza 369 Manantial del Dorado  T-Z 158 Bosque Protector Cerro  Cuenca 179 Blanco 287-8 Esmeraldas 254 Manto de La Novia Waterfalls 158 Elizabeth Bay 328 Galápagos Islands 40-2 V vacations 386-7 Pailón del Diablo 157-8 Galápagos Islands 343- Guayaquil 277-9 54, , , , , Valle de los Petroglifos 227 San Rafael Falls 211, 224 8-9 35 37 43 Latacunga 139-40 , Vía Auca 219 weather 18, 23-5, see also 44 343-54 Loja 194 Vilcabamba 14, 200-4, individual regions Isla Isabela 328 Macas 242-3 201, 14 websites 19 Isla San Cristóbal 319 Mindo 123 visas 18, 389 weights 387 Isla Santiago 332 Misahuallí 234 volcanoes whale-watching 13, 38 Reserva Alto Coca 212-13 Otavalo 103-4 Volcán Alcedo 326 Bahía de Caráquez 264 Reserva Biológica Bilsa Puerto Ayora 314-15 259 Volcán Cayambe 101 Isla de la Plata 13, Puerto Baquerizo women travelers 390 Volcán Chiles 121 292, 13 Moreno 323 work 390 Volcán Chimborazo Mompiche 261 Puerto López 288-9 162-4, 21 Puerto López 288 World Heritage Sites Puerto Villamil 329 Volcán Cotopaxi 10, 135, Salinas 299 Cuenca 10, 174-9, 11 Puyo 239 138, 10 Tonsupa 257 Galápagos Islands 50, Quito 69-72 307-42 Volcán El Altar 159-60, white-water rafting 36-8 Reserva Producción Quito old town 54-63 238 Baeza 210 Faunística Cuyabeno Volcán Imbabura 116 215 Baños 154 Volcán Pichincha 68 Riobamba 165 Tena 17, 229-30, 17 Y Volcán Pululahua 96-7 Salinas 161 wildlife 343-54, 373-6, yellow fever 385 Volcán Reventador 343-54, see also birds San Lorenzo 250-1 212-13 Saraguro 191 wildlife reserves & Z Volcán Rumiñahui 136 sanctuaries, see Tena 230 Zamora 199-200 Volcán Sangay 160, 242 also national parks, Vilcabamba 202 Volcán Sierra Negra 326 reserves, zoos zarcillas 175 train travel 396 Volcán Sumaco 226 AmaZOOnico 237 Zaruma 304-5 Guayaquil 278 Volcán Tungurahua 159 Charles Darwin Research ziplining 38, 37 Nariz del Diablo 170 Volcán Wolf 327 Station 311 zoos, see also wildlife reserves & sanctuaries Tren de la Libertad 117 volunteering 389-90 El Chato Tortoise Tren del Hielo I 165 Reserve 309 Parque Amazónico La Tren del Hielo II 149 Galapaguera 320 Isla 229 Tren de los Volcanes 131 W Jorupe Reserve 205 Parque Histórico Guayaquil 277 Tren Ecuador 104 walking, see hiking Los Galápagos 321 Vivarium 67 Quito 71 walking tours 70, 70 Ochoa Beach 320 Zumba 204 travel to/from Ecuador waterfalls Parque Cóndor 102 Zumbahua 143 391-2 Baños del Inka 190 Playa de Oro Reserva de travel within Ecuador Cascada de Taxopamba Tigrillos 252 392-6 110 412 NOTES 413 SONIA GOUPIL

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Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway/Subte station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Wendy Yanagihara Cuenca & the Southern Highlands, The Oriente Wendy serendipitously landed her dream job of writing for Lonely Planet in 2003, and has spent the intervening years contributing to titles including Southeast Asia on a Shoestring, Vietnam, Japan, Mexico, Costa Rica, Indonesia, and Grand Canyon National Park. In the name of research, she has hiked remote valleys of West Papua, explored tiny nooks and alleys of Tokyo sprawl, trekked on a Patagonian glacier, and rafted Colorado River whitewater. Wendy has also written for BBC Travel, the Guardian, Lonely Planet Magazine, lonelyplanet.com, and intermittently freelances as a graphic designer, illustrator, and visual artist. Wendy also wrote the Survival Guide section of this book. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Isabel Albiston Quito, Central Highlands After six years working for the Daily Telegraph in Lon- don, Isabel left to spend more time on the road. A job as writer for a magazine in Sydney, Australia, was followed by a four-month overland trip across Asia and five years living and working in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Isabel started writing for Lonely Planet in 2014 and has contributed to 10 guidebooks. She’s currently based in Madrid, . Isabel also wrote the Plan section of this book.

Jade Bremner South Coast Jade has been a journalist for more than a decade. She has lived in and reported on four different regions. Wherever she goes she finds action sports to try, the weirder the better, and it’s no coincidence many of her favorite places have some of the best waves in the world. Jade has edited travel mag- azines and sections for Time Out and Radio Times and has contributed to the Times, CNN and the Independent. She feels privileged to share tales from this wonderful planet we call home and is always looking for her next adventure.

Brian Kluepfel North Coast & Lowlands, Northern Highlands Brian had lived in three states and seven different residences by the time he was nine, and he’s just kept moving ever since, making stops in Berkeley, Bolivia, the Bronx and the ‘burbs further down the line. His journalistic work across the Americas has ranged from the Copa America soccer tournament in Paraguay to an accordion festival in Que- bec. He has contributed to Lonely Planet titles including Venezuela, Costa Rica, Belize & Guatemala, and Bolivia. Brian is an avid birder and musician and dabbles in both on the road; his singing has been tolerated at open mics from Sámara, Costa Rica, to Beijing, China. Brian also wrote the Understand section of this book.

MaSovaida Morgan The Galápagos Islands After nearly four years as Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for South America and Antarctica, a last-minute research trip to the Galápagos Islands for this edition prompted MaSovaida to hang up her editor hat for good. As a newly minted guidebook writer, she’s also written about her hometown of Savannah, Georgia, and Korea for Lonely Planet. Learn more about her at www.masovaida.com, and follow her on Instagram, Twitter, and every- where else on the internet @MaSovaida.

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