Gifts for Shark Lovers Only Yukatán Cave Expedition Ecology GLOBAL EDITION Farming November 2009 Coral Farming Number 32 Profile Clement Lee Tech Talk Dry Suits The Oceans Plastic Soup Portfolio Sabahm a l a y s i a Jude Cowell 1 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 cover photo by A & A ferrari DIRECTORY X-RAY MAG is published by AquaScope Media ApS Frederiksberg, Denmark www.xray-mag.com PUBLISHER SENIOR EDITOR Interior of wreck, Scapa Flow, Scotland. Photo by Lawson Wood & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Michael Symes Peter Symes [email protected] [email protected] SECTION EDITORS contents PUBLISHER / EDITOR Andrey Bizyukin, PhD - Features & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Arnold Weisz - News, Features Gunild Symes Catherine Lim - News, Books [email protected] Simon Kong - News, Books Mathias Carvalho - Wrecks Associate editors Cindy Ross - GirlDiver & representatives: Cedric Verdier - Tech Talk Americas: Scott Bennett - Photography Arnold Weisz Scott Bennett - Travel [email protected] Fiona Ayerst - Sharks Michael Arvedlund, PhD Russia Editors & Reps: - Ecology Andrey Bizyukin PhD, Moscow [email protected] Correspondents Robert Aston - CA, USA Svetlana Murashkina PhD, Moscow Enrico Cappeletti - Italy [email protected] John Collins - Ireland Marcelo Mammana - Argentina South East Asia Editor & Rep: Nonoy Tan - The Philippines Catherine GS Lim, Singapore [email protected] Contributors this issue Kurt Amsler ASSISTANT editors Scott Bennett & representatives: Andrey Bizyukin Malaysia Editor & Rep: Mathias Carvalho Simon Kong, Kuala Lumpur Andrea & Antonella Ferrari [email protected] Paul Jeffrey Simon Kong Canada/PNW Editor & Rep: Nathalie Lasselin Barb Roy, Vancouver Catherine GS Lim [email protected] Roz Lunn Bonnie McKenna GirlDiver Editor & PNW Rep: Syed Abd Rahman Cindy Ross, Tacoma, USA Rob Rondeau [email protected] Barb Roy peter symes Gunild Symes ADVERTISING Peter Symes International sales rep: Arnold Weisz Arnold Weisz Tony White 22 29 31 34 38 plus... [email protected] Sa b a h Re e f & Ra i n f o r e s t Se p i l o k : In t h e Fo r e s t Kinabatangan : A Tr i p t o Da n u m : Th e Va l l e y Sa b a h Re v i s i t e d EDITORIAL 3 Marketing Manager: Co n s e r v a t i o n Su cc e s s Re a l m o f t h e Or a n g u t a n Bo r n e o ’s Hi dd e n Je w e l Wh e r e Ti m e St a n d s St i l l Ma l a y s i a NEWS 5 Asia-Pacific rep: Yann Saint-Yves b y A & A Fe rr a r i b y A & A Fe rr a r i b y A & A Fe rr a r i b y A & A Fe rr a r i b y Pe t e r Sy m e s Simon Kong (Malaysia) [email protected] WRECK RAP 12 [email protected] EQUIPMENT 1 9 Further information: contacts French speaking territories: page at www. xray-mag.com 51 56 67 69 76 BOOKS & MEDIA 5 5 Mathias Carvalho Ki d s Sc u b a Eq u i p m e n t Fe a t u r e : Ma n u f a c t u r e r : Yu k a t á n Ca v e Diving: Filming Ax i s Mu n d i TURTLE TALES 8 1 [email protected] Ma l a y s i a Al l Ab o u t Dry s u i t s Ur s u k o f Fi n l a n d Th e Ro l e x Expedition Yu k a t á n Ca v e Diving SHARK TALES 83 Canada e d i t e d b y Gu n i l d Sy m e s b y Pe t e r Sy m e s b y An dr e y Bi z y u k i n , PhD b y Pa u l Je f f r e y b y Na t h a l i e La s s e l i n WHALE TALES 88 Wendy Jankovic & Ro z Lu n n p h o t o s b y Ku r t Am s l e r [email protected] Not yet subscribed to SUBSCRIPTION columns... X-RAY MAG International Edition in English is FREE X-RAY MAG? Sign up now! To subscribe, go to: www.xray-mag.com 79 84 89 91 95 It’s FREE! QUICK! EASY! COVER PHOTO: Pair of Zebra Crabs on Fire Urchin, Lankayan, Gi f t s f o r Sh a r k Pr o f i l e : Th e Oc e a n s : UW Ph o t o g r a p h y : Po r t f o l i o : click here... Malaysia, by Andrea and Antonella Ferrari o v e r s n l y l e m e n t e e l a s t i c o u p a cr o e a r a g o n u d e o w e l l THIS PAGE: ‘Barracuda Rushhour’ Sipadan Island, Malaysia, L O C L P S M S D J C by Peter Symes e d i t e d b y Gu n i l d Sy m e s b y Pe t e r Sy m e s e d i t e d b y Bo n n i e McKe n n a b y To n y Wh i t e e d i t e d b y Gu n i l d Sy m e s (Continued on page 4)

2 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 Amsterdam Barcelona Cape Town Copenhagen Kuala Lumpur London Moscow Orlando Oslo Paris Ravenna Sao Paulo Singapore Vancouver Warsaw Editorial The times... they thE are a-changing

“The strength and beauty of sharks are a natural owER barometer for the health of our oceans. of DEMA Show Therefore, I declare today that Palau will become thouSAnDS of oppoRtunitiES...onE goAl: the world’s first national shark sanctuary, ending YouR SuccESS all commercial shark fishing in our waters and giving a sanctuary for sharks to live and reproduce unmolested in our 237,000 square miles of ocean. We call upon all nations to join us.” DEMA Show, the power to be: Johnson Toribiong, President of Palau, in a speech to the United Nations General Assembly Informed by DEMA Show’s comprehensive educational programs — on Friday, September 25, 2009 presenting tested strategies, new insights for the new economy, and innovative ideas certain to breathe new life into your business. ConneCted with the dive community while you immerse yourself in the business of diving. Learn from experts and from your peers, and apply Bravo! This was a landmark speech by a dead shark—was how the saying went. their ideas and successes to YOUR challenges. head of state and remarkable news in several ways. Some 30 years after Steven Spielberg’s SuCCeSSful in boosting your bottom line with show-only promotions and specials offered by hundreds of exhibitors. In time AND money, DEMA Show Jaws movie first scared the living daylights provides a generous return on your attendance investment. The value of such a sanctuary cannot be out of the movie-goers and made us anx- 2009 overrated. Findings from other no-take ious about taking a swim at the beach, DEMA Show is the place to refresh yourself and revitalize the way zones have clearly demonstrated how we find that dive travellers are paying top you do business so you can provide your customers with what they significant sanctuaries are for rebuild- dollar for close encounters with sharks, love — diving, travel and adventure. Achieve your financial and business ing dwindling fish stocks. From within and most recently, in some cases, even goals. In these challenging times, attending DEMA Show makes more these zones, fish populations have often swimming in open water (without cages) sense than ever before. rebounded and replenished stocks else- with tiger sharks and great whites. where. Register for DEMA Show today at www.demashow.com. Our appreciation of sharks, and the value What a long way we have come in a we place on sharks, has come a long few decades in our appreciation of way. Let us hope that the trend continues November 4–7, 2009 • orlaNdo, Fl • oraNge CouNty CoNveNtioN CeNter sharks. Not so many years ago, these to spread worldwide. Sharks are worth so magnificent creatures were seen as much more alive than dead, in terms of BE infoRMED. BE connEctED. BE SuccESSful. voracious man-eaters only to be feared both ecology and economy. ■ and loathed... The only good shark was a www.demashow.com

3 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED 007459_affichette_A4_36_FMISM:_ 29/06/09 13:47 Page1

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Casual, comfortable & stylish footwear for divers. High quality PALAIS DU PHARO Keds Champion Sneakers & Slip-ons with rubber soles. Durban Great for travel, liveaboards Regarding news from NAUI in X-RAY Dancing in town & on the beach. Kids MARSEILLE MAG: This issue of X-RAY MAG and Shrimp er others may include news and press sizes, too! Bulk discounts & 29 octobre - 1 novembre 2009 releases from NAUI in sections des- International shipping. Lots of SOUS LE PATRONAGE DE ignated by the NAUI logo. While the other marine life designs on shoes, LA FÉDÉRATION FRANÇAISE D’ÉTUDES ET DE SPORTS SOUS-MARINS page design is done by X-RAY MAG t-shirts, Sea Mugs, cards & gifts. Sport as an integrated part of the maga- your spots and stripes. Find them at Oceanatomy! zine, these news stories are brought to Espace imprimerie, Marseille. you by NAUI at NAUI’s discretion. Festival : 1157, chemin de la Plaine - BP 1307 - 06255 Mougins Cedex. France. Tél +33 (0)4 93 61 45 45 - Fax +33 (0)4 93 67 34 93 www.zazzle.com/oceanatomy [email protected] - http://www.underwater-festival.com

4 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Deep-water Receive State piping hot Protection Over 23,000 square miles of News edited deep-water coral reefs in the by Peter Symes South Atlantic is now under state & Catherine G S Lim protection, thanks to a historic ruling by the South Atlantic Fishery Management Council. NEWS the legislation will protect coral living in waters off the coasts of the Carolinas, Georgia and eastern Florida, at depths of 400 to 700 metres. this is a significant move, as the South Atlantic region is home to Deep water coral what is believed to be the world’s largest contiguous distribution of deep-water corals. Now, with the legislation, the corals would be Massive Black Coral Forest Found Off Southern Italy safe from the impact of bottom- tending fishing practices. habitat. exploration project, credited the progress ter exploration, more of them [Antipathes however, the concerns of the however, in underwater technology for the break- dicotoma] may be discovered, but we fishermen who work in the region as excited as throughs in the filming and study of new have provided the first images of them, have not gone unheard. they must be, marine environments. alive, in their environment.” ■ Working closely with fishermen, the research- “With the recent increase in underwa- fisheries managers and coral reef ers are keeping experts, Dan Rader, chairman mum about the of the Council’s Habitat and NOAA site of their dis- Environmental Protection Advisory coveries. “The Panel, outlined specific areas in Italian researchers have found one of the coral we found has a great value, primarily which fishing would be allowed largest forests of black coral off the coast because of its rarity,” said Silvestro Greco, with gear restrictions. of southern Italy. head of the environmental agency for the these “Allowable Golden Crab comprising almost 30,000 colonies, the southern Italian region of Calabria. Fishing Areas” and “Shrimp Fishery black corals (Antipathes subpinnata) cov- “If somebody with no conscience knew Access Areas” help to ensure ered ground as large as two soccer fields. exactly where they were, I think there the continued existence of these As it was at a depth of 50 to 100 metres, would be risks. That’s why we have not fisheries and the communities researchers used a remote-controlled sub- really disclosed where they are.” they support. marine to film the massive forest. black coral is listed as an endangered According to Rader, “I know in addition, they also discovered an species by the Convention on International of no other example where the extremely rare black coral species, Trade in Endangered Species. It is brightly finest science available was Antipathes dicotoma. It is so rare that there coloured, and gets its name from its black translated through interactive are only five fragments of it being stored in or brown skeleton. It is this skeleton that is work with managers and museums. This was the first time this coral sought after for use as jewellery. fishermen into world-class species had been found alive in its natural Simone Canese, chief researcher of the protection. This impressive ‘win- win’ should be celebrated by all those who love the sea, and who appreciate eating sea food they ABOVE LEFT: Close-up view of rare know is harvested in ways that black coral. RIGHT: Garden of rare protect its bounty.” ■ black coral at growing in the wild 5 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED news A Holistic Approach to Coral Reef Health A TLANTIS Maintaining the good health of have vanished. coral reefs is best done in a holistic in the absence of these preda- manner, taking not just the physical tory fishes, other fish species health into consideration, but the thrive. One such spe- environmental factors as well. cies is the , A case in point: Following a major which feed on coral bleaching incident, corals on various and appear to be Hawaii: Scientists Diving to New reefs in Honduras and Belize recov- responsible for dis- Depths Make Exciting Discoveries ered and grew normally within two ease transmission to three years when the surrounding amongst the cor- waters were healthy. However, at als. Diving as deep as 250 feet, scientists on a locations were there was excessive in a study, sci- research trip at the remote Northwestern adverse impact (like pollution), the entists compared AMAZING RESORTS Hawaiian Islands made some exciting discov- corals did not recover fully, even seven Marine eries. after eight years. Protected Areas P icto n E . At the Papahanaumokuakea Marine “You can imagine that when you [MPAs] where National Monument, they discovered new are recovering from a sickness, it fishing had been coral species, as well as deep-water algae will take a lot longer if you don’t banned for at least five Bluelashed butterflyfish, bennetti B e rnard beds that served as nursery grounds for juve- eat well or get enough rest,” said years, and another seven nile reef fish like the parrotfish and butterflyfish. Jessica Carilli, a graduate student at neighbouring sites with similar diver- erage and fertiliser are bad news In fact, they even got hold of the first speci- Scripps Institution of Oceanography sity. for corals, as are the abnormally men of a recently discovered species of but- at UC San Diego. they discovered that the corals high water temperatures during the ANTASTIC IVING terflyfish. “Similarly, a coral organism that at the latter sites suffered more dis- occurrence of El Nino. F D “We were seeing reefs that no human has must be constantly trying to clean eases; in some cases, the difference Nevertheless, preserving the diver- ever laid eyes on before,” said Randall Kosaki, itself from excess sediment particles was twice as many. In addition, sity of the reef appears to boost the research mission’s chief scientist and diver. will have a more difficult time recov- many butterflyfish were found at their ability to cope with certain ris- “The coral reef habitat goes four times ering after a stressful condition like the sites where fishing was allowed, ing temperatures. deeper than where we’ve been working prior bleaching.” leading to a higher incidence of “The general trend is that where to this.” Disease and overfishing also coral disease. you find more functional diversity, During the month-long expedition, Kosaki affected coral health. In places Similar patterns were found at the you find fewer butterflyfish,” reiter- and his team had been diving with the help where there is overfishing, the popu- Great Barrier Reef in Australia. ated Laurie Raymundo, a researcher UPERB UISINE of new technology that allowed them to dive lation of bigger fishes like groupers of course, other factors do come at the University of Guam. S C deeper than was possible several years ago. are either significantly reduced or into the picture. Pollutants like sew- of course, to ensure that preda- As a result, at the 200-foot depth, they tory fishes are present to keep found 12 to 15 fish species never seen down the number of butterfly- before at the monument. fish, the scientists are not advo- the fish population there were thriv- cating that fishing be banned. ing, thanks to the fact that fishing did Rather, it is about maintaining not take place in the protected zone. a balance. The relative isolation of the monument “One of the things that OMING ALL (with the only human settlement at came out of this is that if you C F 2009 a research outpost on Midway Atoll) have a well-managed MPA, it meant that the reefs were not sub- works to keep coral healthier. ject to runoff from housing develop- [...] So as long you keep cer- ments and paved riverbeds. Hence, tain species there and can the reefs at the monument were very control fishing—don’t catch healthy. in certain seasons or don’t “At one time, we had 100 sharks catch fish under a certain size, around us. It’s just something you whatever is appropriate —you don’t see here on Oahu or any of the might not have to ban it com- inhabited islands,” Kosaki said. ■ pletely.” ■

noaa 6 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED a-boxes mer Ca BS-K Diverse fish reduce from inetics ing news U.S. Geo l o g ic al ur ve y S e dl BS Kinetics GmbH rg an diseases in coral on sy h Großweierer Straße 70 omic and ea 77855 Achern Germany Fon: +49 7841 668437 Coral reefs with nless and stai UV -res a diverse fish istant small ht, , s to 8 population are ig tr d up 0 m l on ize healthier than g & pressur or mera – f near f ca overfished ly each o ones. ter photog wa rap er hy Scientists nd u showed a & e reduced r

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Staghorn coral ( cervicornis) has been listed as threatened because their numbers are declining, owing to a areas of the c combination of natural and anthropogenic stress factors Philippines om www tics.c where fish- .bskine

ing is banned, Leo nard o St a bi l e Reproduction of Farm-raised Corals Spell compared with neigh- Hope for Coral Restoration bouring areas. The research- For the first time, Atlantic- place else.” ing a lot of corals in our nursery, ers concluded Carribean farm-raised staghorn Added Ken Nedimyer, presi- and we can replant them on that some types of corals were documented to have dent of the Coral Restoration some reefs, but we could never fish probably carry reproduced, giving hope for the Foundation: “This is real exciting replant all corals on all the reefs,” coral diseases, writing future of coral restoration. because this is the future of trying said Nedimyer. and suggesting that the this discovery was significant in to rebuild these reefs.” In addition “The goal is to get them repro- disease-carrying species Copperband that it proved that transplanted to being involved in coral resto- ducing successfully, so they can thrive where predatory butterflyfish, staghorn corals still possessed the ration projects for the past nine do what they used to do.” fish are absent. Chelmon rostratus ability to survive in the wild, reach years, Nedimyer has been per- in the northern hemisphere, sexual maturity, and reproduce. sonally involved in the corals at spawning normally takes place Butterflyfish Working with the marine scien- Molasses Reef in recent years. a few days after the full moon in (Chaetodontidae), which are not fished, tists of the Florida Keys National in 2006, he had harvested inch- August or September. During this appear the likely culprits in disease trans- Marine Sanctuary, students dove long fragments of live staghorn time, larvae are dispersed over mission. “People like to eat the big pred- and collected gametes released and planted them in a special a wide area. If they survive long ators such as groupers and a few others,” from transplanted corals at nursery off the Upper Keys. The fol- enough, ocean currents might said lead researcher Laurie Raymundo. Molasses Reef off Key Largo in lowing year, with the help of stu- relocate them 10 to 50 miles from “In some cases, these species are not August. dents, the more mature clippings the original site, according to so abundant, and in others, they’ve just “This is very much like a great were transplanted into a portion Nedimyer. gone. And the general trend is that where big circle of life,” said Dr David of sand at Molasses Reef. for the students, the experience you find more functional diversity, you find Palandro, a research scientist then, in August 2009, other gave them to a new realm of fewer butterflyfish,” the University of Guam for the Florida Fish and Wildlife students working as part of knowledge. “All we see on land is researcher told BBC News. Conservation Commission. “Corals SCUBAnauts International edu- how reproduce, but we Diseases have inflicted substantial dam- were transplanted here, and cation group documented and don’t really know what goes on age on coral reefs in a number of regions we’re collecting the gametes collected gametes from these underwater. It was awesome,” in recent years, notably the Caribbean, from those transplanted corals, farmed corals. said Nick Johnson, a high school where naturally abundant species, such as and we hope to take those gam- the results give hope for the senior from Dunedin, Florida. ■ elkhorn and staghorn, have been almost etes and transplant them some- future of the corals. “We’re grow- wiped out in some places. ■

7 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED news

Stop Shark Finning — One Soup Bowl at a Time Text and photos by Catherine G S Lim

Smashing soup bowls to protest shark mosaic. life, as a meaningful and somewhat against shark finning was what eSPN Star Sports presenter Jamie ironic second life. After the exhibi- shoppers and passers-by did at a Yeo, who threw the 'inaugural' soup tion, the broken pieces would be special event to celebrate World bowl, said, "Some things are cre- used to create permanent works of Day in Singapore recently. ated perfect but humans and their art for exhibitions and ACRES' edu- organised by ACRES (Animal traditions are fallible. Therefore, cation programmes. ■ Concerns Research and Education sometimes we need to break the Society), the three-day event tradition." encouraged passers-by at a busy After all the celebrities had a go, “Shark’s fin coup is so passe.” shopping district to throw donat- they penned personal messages ed shark's fin soup bowls in an on one of the walls that formed the —Melody Chen, enclosed space. The broken pieces enclosure, and then were treated were then used on the spot to cre- to a free sampling of doubled- television presenter & actress ate installation art - a 15-metre boiled ginseng soup with pumpkin mosaic of a shark. silky beancurd and bamboo fungus, "This tradition [shark finning] is a vegan alternative to shark's fin “Traditions aside, how could not only cruel, it is wasteful and soup, courtesy of Fairmont Hotels & one stomach shark’s fin soup hugely destructive, because when Resorts. So far, this is the only hotel when there is so much cruelty sharks die, the entire marine ecosys- in Singapore that has made a delib- tem also collapses," said Louis Ng, erate choice to stop serving shark's afflicted in producing such a Founder and Executive Director of fin soup. dish? You don’t have to con- ACRES. over the three days, the response every year, about 100 million was very positive, with the public done such practice to gain sta- sharks perish to satisfy the glo- willingly forking out $2 for every tus.” bal demand for shark's fin soup. soup bowl. Some even bought Singapore, where the event was several bowls at a time. Donations —Randall Tan, held, is the world's third largest were also sought, to further the shark's fin trading centre, accord- anti-shark-finning campaign, and to television actor ing to the UN's Food and Agriculture fund ACRES' other educational and Organization. outreach programmes, as well as the opening ceremony on wildlife rescue. In total, more than “One of my friends told me October 2nd was graced by local $8,000 were raised. what happens to the sharks, celebrities who learnt more about Several hundreds of soup bowls, and after that, I couldn’t eat it the issue and pledged to go off complete with spoons, were CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Detail from poster for event; Actress throwing shark's fin soup. Then, they had a donated to ACRES for this event. anymore.” soup bowl; Supporter gets shark tattoo; Vegan alternative to shark fin soup; ball of a time smashing soup bowls Intended to be discarded anyway, Actor fills in the shape of a shark with broken pieces of soup bowls; ACRES founder, and laying the first pieces of the the soup bowls now have a second — Passer-by Louis Ng, talks to a reporter about the event and the cause; Shape of shark filled with broken pieces of soup bowls; Families show their support by signing a wall

8 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED

news Dressed in full scuba gear, ����������������� ��� the government of the Maldives held a cabinet meeting underwater to highlight the threat of global warming to the low-lying Indian Ocean nation. In 2007, the UN Intergovern- mental Panel on Climate Change predicted that sea level rise will submerge the low-lying islands of the Mal- dives within a century Maldives’ government conducts cabinet meeting under water ������������������������������������� President Mohamed Nasheed, conducted the 30-minute meeting at a depth of 20 feet off the coast just north of the capital, Male.

Sitting five feet deep in the summit in December to ensure Copenhagen in an attempt to lagoon, President Mohamed that “everyone survives”. World forge a successor to the Kyoto Nasheed and 11 cabinet ministers leaders will congregate in Protocol, due to expire in 2012. ■ used hand signals and a white slate to communicate before signing a declaration calling on Natalia ������������� all nations to “join hands and Molchanova C o mm ns reduce carbon emissions and bring down the level of carbon set freediving in the atmosphere to below 350 record at age 47 Wi k i m e d a ppm”. Current levels of carbon in the atmosphere stand at 390 Russian freediver, ppm. Natalia Molchanova, has become the first Climate change was a serious woman in the world to issue that needed the world’s break the 100 meter ���������������� attention, the president said. barrier in Constant Weight, by freediving to The president appealed for a 101 meters off Sharm el ���� ��������� �������������� ������� ���� ���������� ��������� ����������� �������������������������������������������������������������������������� concerted effort to commit to Sheik, Egypt. Her total ������������������������������������������������������������������������� ������� ����� ����� ������ �������� ����� ���� ����� ������������ ��� ���� “a better deal” at the landmark dive time was 3 minutes ���������������������������������������������������������������������� ���������������������������������������������� ������������������������������������ ��������������������������������������������� Copenhagen climate change and 50 seconds. ■

9 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED By Kurt Amsler ‘Turtle Mafia’ on Bali Sea turtles on Bali are once more in danger of being butchered. You can help prevent it. Once again, we ask for your support. We is at it again have managed to put a stop to this slaughter before. But now the ‘Turtle Mafia’ on Bali is at it again. The governor of Bali is being pres- sured to permit the slaughter of thousands of sea turtles for ‘religious purposes’.

About a year ago, we obviously, such a deci- could proudly announce sion will open the flood- that the campaign to gates to uncontrolled killing stop the slaughter of sea once again, and it will be turtles on Bali had been a impossible to control the success. The cages and number of animals slaugh- slaughterhouses in Tanjung tered. Benoa were all empty and We need to react now! no more turtles were being It is not too late. The op- traded in public places. position and the Pro Fauna While it was still possible organisation is engaged to find some animals on the in ongoing discussions on black market, they were various political levels. But harder to find. The number they need our immediate of killed and traded ani- support. mals dropped around 90 SOS-Seaturtles is already percent since the onset of financially supporting the the campaign. entire administration as there were reasons to be well as initiating a petition proud. After an eight-year during which thousands of battle against the Turtle letters of protest will be sent Mafia, we seemed to have to the authorities. We are won the war. very concerned for Bali’s sea turtles and don’t con- The ghost reappears sider such a decision just a Yet, the issue is now raising domestic issue. its ugly head again. Watch this video from thanks to an intensive Bali. This movie was filmed a lobby by various interest decade ago. Do you want groups, the Balinese Gov- this to happen again? If not ernment is now considering please sign our petition on permitting the killing and the following link. trading of a thousand sea turtles per year for Balinese Thank you for your support! ■ rituals. Let’s stop them

10 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED the dive news network presents the 3rd AnnUAl DIVE & TRAVEl EXPO May 21 -23, 2010 tacoma, washington, U.S.A. • 250 Exciting • Try Scuba FREE Exhibitor Booths • Try Scuba FREE • 40 FREE Seminars • Great Deals • See The Latest On Travel Diving Products • Meet Diving Seaweeds • Win Thousands Celebrities Of Dollars In Prizes are not DISCOVER AN OCEAN OF POSSIBILITIES plants

www.diveandtravelexpo.com P ete r S ym e s A bed of the macroalgae bladderwrack (Fucus vesiculosus) is home to diverse sealife including this rock- pool shrimp (Palaemon elegans) PIXEL QUARTERLYWET

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11 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wreck NOAA locates US Navy Ship rap Sunk in World War II Battle A NOAA-led research mission has located and identified the final resting place of the YP-389, a U.S. Navy patrol boat sunk approxi- mately 20 miles off the coast of Cape Hatteras, NC, by a German Edited by submarine during World War II. Mathias Carvalho

Built originally as a fish- of the Atlantic,” home to Consistent with U.S. and Lost Fighter Jet Found in California Bay ing trawler, the YP-389 U.S. and British naval ves- international policy, both was converted into a sels, merchant ships, and the Bedfordshire and the Pat Macha, an aircraft archeologist who with a lot of aluminum, which indicated coastal patrol craft and German U-boats sunk YP-389 wreck sites are con- has identified about 3,700 crash sites that it was an airplane. They also found pressed into service after during the Battle of the sidered war graves and and visited more than 800 around the landing gears, which corroborated it. the Japanese attack on Atlantic. Today, the rela- are protected by United Santa Monica Bay seafloor, was part of Ray’s crew identified a manufacturer’s Pearl Harbor. The ship was tively intact remains of the States and international a search team that have accidentally number on a feed mechanism for a equipped with one 3-inch YP-389 rest upright on the laws, including the Sunken found and identified the wreck of a 50-caliber machine gun. The engine deck gun to protect the ship’s keel. The wreck site Military Craft Act, which Lockheed T-33A jet fighter that disap- appeared to be a jet, so he knew it ship from enemy aircraft is home to a variety of prohibits removal of arti- peared nearly 54 years ago. wasn’t the Mustang, which had a pro- and surfaced subma- marine life. Much of the facts and any alteration or computer expert Gary Fabian is the peller motor. rines and two .30-caliber outer-hull plating has fallen disruption of the wreck site. founder of UB88.org, a group that dis- At that point, Arntz realized that, “We machine guns. However, away, leaving only the covered a missing World War I German know it’s not what we’re looking for.” when the ship was intact frames exposed. “The story of the YP-389 per- U-boat off the California coast in 2003. Researching government documents, attacked on 19 June 1942 sonifies the character of the He was the one who identified “a few the searchers found that the manufac- by the German submarine NOAA and its expedition Battle of the Atlantic along little pixels” on a high-definition U.S. turer’s number indicated it was a T-33 U-701, the ship’s deck gun partners mapped and shot the East Coast of the United Geological Survey image map of the Shooting Star, which had disappeared in was inoperative, and the video of the wreck using States, where small poorly Santa Monica Bay ocean floor. the area. YP-389 could return fire only high-resolution camera armed fishing trawlers were fabian met Macha about five years “It just matched what we had,” Arntz with its machine guns and equipment, multibeam called to defend Ameri- ago in Huntington Beach, California, said. “The T-33 was it.” six sailors died in the attack. sonar and an advanced can waters against one of while researching for military aircraft There were 18 survivors. remotely operated vehi- Germany’s most feared wrecks. Lost and not found Weeks after the attack on cle deployed from the vessels,” said David W. Macha told him about his 11 year While looking for one missing plane, the YP-389, the U-701 was NOAA ship Nancy Foster. Alberg, expedition leader search for another missing aircraft, a Macha and the others came upon an sunk by Army aircraft in the Researchers were able to and superintendent of the P-51D Mustang fighter flown by World unexpected wreckage. same vicinity as the YP-389. locate and positively iden- Monitor National Marine War II Women’s Air Force Service pilot “It’s a funky thing,” said Macha. tify the YP-389 by reexam- Sanctuary. ■ Gertrude “Tommy” Tompkins Silver, pre- “You’re looking for one aircraft, and you The wreck is located in ining data from the Duke sumed lost at sea in 1944. Silver’s is the find another.” about 300 feet of water in Marine Laboratory expedi- only wreckage that has not been found. Macha’s interest in aircraft wrecks a region off North Carolina tion that discovered the started in the 1960s when he found a known as the “Graveyard USS Monitor in 1973. Dive operation crash site while working in a Boy Scout Fabian sent the map info to Ray Arntz, camp in the San Bernardino Photo mosaic owner and operator of a southern Mountains. of YP-389 California dive company and a fellow there are 2,500 crash sites shipwreck member of UB88.org. around Arntz and fellow employees set out California, he to search and found three wrecks using said, where side-scan sonar. Two turned out to be airplanes and their scat- boats. They weren’t sure about the third, tered remains can still be so they went down to inspect the site. found. Some are listed on his he saw a fairly compact debris field website:,www.aircraftwrecks.com ■ Lockheed T-33 on display

12 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wreck rap Black Sea Shipwreck

On August 2009, archaeologists found a well- suppose that the slabs were intended to be used preserved, 100-foot (30m) shipwreck dating back at the construction of one of the palaces on to the 18th or 19th century at a depth of 460 feet Crimea’s southern coast,” said Voronov. (140m), approximately 5.6 miles (9km) offshore, Since both masts on the wreck are broken, while testing a remote-controlled, Voronov believes that the sailing deep-submersible research vehi- boat capsized and sunk during a cle. storm. “Another possibility is cargo Loaded with stone sheets, the displacement inside the ship.” vessel’s deck covers “are broken Nicknamed Grin’s Brigantine due up and the cargo can be seen – to its similarity to the ship described marble or granite slabs” according in prominent Russian writer Alek- to Sergey Voronov, a top Ukrainian sandr Grin’s novel, Scarlet Sails. The underwater archaeologist. “In vessel won’t be raised anytime in those times, active construction the near future, according to the was underway in Crimea, and we archeologist. ■

Russian author, Aleksandr Grin

Out with the Old, in with the New RMS Empress of Ireland, 1908. She was an ocean liner operated by Canadian Pacific Steamship Company. On the morning of 29 May 1914, the Norwegian collier, Storstad, The 138 meter long, 4100-ton, missile- (www.vars.org.au), started in 2006, the sula. “It’s like Christmas,” he added. The crashed into the side of the Empress of Ireland. With severe damage to her starboard side, guided frigate HMAS Canberra, was sunk sinking was a result of hard lobbying with area is populated with 46 other wrecks, she sank within 14 minutes. A total of 1012 passengers and crewmen were lost off Victoria’s coast early in October. Built the Australian Navy. and is locally known as the “Ship’s in 1978 and launched two years later, “As a scuba diver, I’m extremely excit- Graveyard”. the Australian vessel served for 24 years ed about diving on a wreck like this,” Recreational diving will be allowed Empress of Ireland shipwreck before it was decommissioned, in 2005. declared the 66-year-old diver, after wit- once commercial clearance divers Resting at 30 meters nessing the ship go down some 3 km off make sure all sinking charges had been deep, it will become Barwon Heads, on the Bellarine penin- properly detonated and moorings are named National Historic Site a local scuba diving installed by Parks Victoria, attraction as well as the government’s preserve Nearly a century after the five- peice stringed orches- the Empress on the star- a new artificial reef authority,(www.parkweb. Empress of Ireland sank tra would perform and board side. The Storstad that will help with the vic.gov.au) sometime at in the St. Lawrence River spacious sleeping quarters; had taken action to pass much needed ocean the end of the year. and took the lives of more the Empress was a beauti- the Empress port to port preservation efforts. It is Mr Lawler, cannot wait than 1,000 passengers and ful ship. but instead ran the ship expected that the new to visit the site. “As soon as crew, the wreck of the directly across the path of reef will be populated it’s open, if the weather’s elegant luxury liner that The steamship crossed the the Empress and collided with fish as it began its fine, myself and some of represents Canada’s worst Atlantic Ocean regularly with her on the starboard underwater adaptation. my diving buddies will be maritime disaster has finally for about a decade be- side bow area. The en- for wreck scuba div- out on the site as quick as been declared a national fore it left Quebec, on 29 gine room flooded within ing enthusiasts, such as we can.” ■ historic site. May 1914, with 1477 peo- minutes with the brackish John Lawler, advocate ple aboard and travelled seawater, which shorted and founder of Victorian The Empress was a luxury down the St. Lawrence out the ship’s engines, Artificial Reef Society passenger ship that of- Seaway where it was water tight doors, and the fered 570 feet of elegance caught in a heavy fog. electricity. The Empress Click on the image to and first class luxuries. Teak While approaching the was only able to get one see the report on the decking, gold trimmed mouth of the river in the S.O.S. message out before sinking of the HMAS plates, first class dining, first evening a lookout spotted they lost power and sank in Canberra class music room where a a ship rapidly approaching 30 metres of water. ■

13 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED This Ancient Roman mar- wreck ble statue from c. 191- rap 192 CE, which was also found in an underground chamber in the area of the Horti Lamiani in 1874 and is now housed at the Palazzo dei Conservatori, is of the Greek god Triton, who was the son of Neptune, god of the seas

Blue Grotto reveals ancient roman statues

Celebrated for its incredibly blue beneath its waters, waters and mysterious silvery according to the results of light rays, the Grotta Azzurra an underwater survey. wikipedia (Blue Grotto), is one of Capri’s Rosalba Giugni, presi- top attractions. The grotto was dent of the Mare Vivo environ- carried out in collaboration roman Emperor Tiberius’ private mentalist association (www. with the Pompeii archaeologi- swimming pool (42 B.C. - 37 marevivo.it), declared: cal authority (www.pompeiisites. A.D.). “A preliminary underwater org), the Mare Vivo project aims A number of ancient Roman investigation has revealed sev- at returning the Blue Grotto to its statues were eral statue bases which might ancient glory by placing identi- recently dis- possibly hint to sculptures lying cal copies of Tiberius’ statues covered lying nearby,” where they originally stood. ■

Click on the image to watch a video taken inside the Blue Grotto Datamask HeaDs up. HanDs free.

An advance so groundbreaking, you’ll have to see it to believe it. Experience the future of diving on our web site or stop by your local Authorized Oceanic Dealer.

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14 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RIGHT: Diver inves- wreck tigates half-buried rap canon. BELOW LEFT: Children examine a model of a shipwreck

Shipwreck Appreciation & Conservation Many divers already know having a certification card from “advanced” wrecks. These are facts from a shipwreck. that you shouldn’t remove a recognized dive instruction typically deep-water wrecks or Any judge will tell you, agency, such as PADI, isn’t good wrecks that have other hazards “Ignorance (of the law) is artifacts from a shipwreck. enough. Every diver must have and require a high degree of div- no excuse.” In addition to being illegal their ability assessed by a provin- ing skill and experience. the important thing is to in most parts, doing so can cially-accredited instructor before one such wreck is the Empress make sure you know the also be dangerous. Diving they can dive. This can mean of Ireland—which lies at the bot- relevant local laws before a foreign diver, even a highly tom of the St. Lawrence River you dive. Better yet, some wrecks requires qualified and experienced, and/ near Rimouski, Quebec. The late before you arrive. Your specialized training and or vacationing one, having to great liner is a spectacular but travel agent, or dive tour experience. perform a skills test in a swimming challenging dive. It’s been called, operator, should be able pool. “the Mount Everest of scuba”. to tell you about the rules In the province of Quebec, Likewise, it’s becoming increas- And, for good reason. A hand- and regulations pertaining Canada, all divers are required ingly common for novice divers ful of recreational divers have to a particular site. to have a special license. Simply to be restricted from diving some died on the wreck. In addition A military ship remains to requiring a the exclusive property provincial div- of its flag country at the ing license, time of its sinking. If you every Empress remove an artifact from diver is also such a wreck, you may required to be find yourself in an interna- “Advanced” tional court, or up against certified and a foreign government. have at least Some war wrecks, such as one hundred the Civil War causalities, dives under Monitor and Alabama, their belt are off-limits to recreation- beforehand. al divers. A diver may also be Fine, jail or required to purchase a worse permit or license before Most jurisdic- they can dive. The money tions have laws generated from the sale that govern of such permits is used to specific dive interpret and conserve sites, such as the site. their bottom time or depth lawsuit, there’s another good rea- shipwrecks. Removing artifacts can also —putting them at risk. Over- son not to remove artifacts. Every You can be cost you your life. Not only can exertion can also increase a time a diver removes something fined, or worse, it be physically demanding, but diver’s risk of decompression sick- from a shipwreck, there’s one less end up in jail being involved in such activity ness. thing for the next diver to see. for taking arti- can cause a diver to lose track of in addition to risking injury, or a

15 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED wreck rap

Not politically correct In the old days, taking arti- facts demonstrated a div- er’s prowess. If a ship’s bell or bridge gear was there, it meant you were the first to dive the wreck. So, you took it. But, like lots of other former past-times, such as big game hunting and scalping Indians, taking artifacts from shipwrecks is no longer socially accept- able. once an artifact is removed they can expect to see on the from the water, it quickly deterio- dive. When it’s not there, they feel rates. If you remove something cheated, and you feel foolish. and it’s not properly conserved, Wreck diving can lead a diver it will likely turn into a pile of rust. into areas of academic research And, when you take an artifact, and study. I know lots of divers you reduce the historical and who would, otherwise, never archaeological significance of have found their local public the wreck that it came from. library. Researching shipwrecks i can’t tell you the number of can be a rewarding activity in times I’ve returned to a shipwreck itself. A friend of mine calls it, “his to find that artifacts have been drug of choice”. removed—often illegally. And, the old adage, “take only pic- sometimes in their pursuit of arti- tures and leave only bubbles”, facts divers have destroyed parts is still the best approach when it of the ship. Surveying the dam- comes to appreciating and con- age, you feel violated. If you’ve serving shipwreck artifacts. And, ever had your house or apart- it’s a good way to meet other ment robbed you’ll know what divers, hone your skills and stay I’m talking about. But, what’s interested in diving. ■ most frustrating is knowing that most divers were acting out of —‑Rob Rondeau ignorance. Marine Archaeologist Likewise, it’s equally frustrat- ProCom Diving Services ing when you’re taking divers www.procomdiving.com on a tour of a wreck to find that artifacts have been removed. CLOCKWSIE FROM TOP LEFT: Sonar You’ve told them about what scan of a wreck; Examining and researching found artifacts; Let oth- ers also enjoy a display of found his- torical artifacts from a ship wreck

16 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED TUSA_013mask1-09DT:TUSA Melea 1/15/09 10:55 AM Page 1 wreck rap 1911 Dreamland Bell found

In May 1911, Coney Island’s Dreamland team, declared that he knew the bell M-17 Concero Frameless Park was in flames for a full 18 hours and existed, but never dreamed he would burned itself into the sea, destroying the find it. “I thought it would be buried in pier around it. mud. I was stunned, especially over the in September 2009, local divers dis- incredible shape the bell is in.” covered a 500-lb bell that sunk to the Ritter found the bell quite recently, ocean floor with the rest of the park but it has been 18 years since he first 98 years after the flames died down. came upon Dreamland’s remnants in It is three feet high and inscribed with the ocean. “James Gregory, NY, 1885”—founding As to the bell itself, it is yet uncertain member of the Gregory Brothers Circus. if it will ring once again, after being fully Diver Gene Ritter, part of the recovery restored. ■

The Dreamland Bell of 1911 and diver Gene Ritter who found it under the waves. Image cour- tesy of the website dedicated to the find, in construction, www.dreamland- It becomes you. bell.com

US Navy Shipwreck from War of 1812 to be excavated The shape and arrangement of sails on an American privateer schooner, brig or brigantine, are quickly movable to much more radical angles. English seamen have written that they saw privateers escaping “sailing directly into the wind.”

long excavation of the site east of T U S A C e n te Upper Marlboro in 1980, the wreck It becomes you. was reburied under four feet of mud and sediment to protect it H i s to r ic al from decay. the US Navy, which still owns US N a v y the flotilla, is considering whether The first USS Scorpion was a sloop- the wreck, which is one of the to excavate the site and possibly rigged self-propelled floating bat- war's most significant artifacts, raise the vessel as part of its plans WWW.TUSA.COM tery in commission in the United was discovered nearly 30 years to commemorate the bicenten- States Navy from 1812 to 1814. ago, but after a limited, month- nial of the War of 1812. ■

17 X-RAY MAG : 32 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel news Media sensationalism surrounding dive deaths plague industry Already hurting from the economic Thomas and Eileen Lonergan off Port media was too quick to brand fatal downturn, worldwide publicity Douglas in 1998, did nothing to help incidents “dive deaths” regardless of surrounding high-profile fatalities the situation. Since then, the death the circumstances, Queensland Dive has continued to plague of honeymooner Tina Watson, left Tourism Association general manager Edited by Queensland’s dive industry. to drown by her husband Gabriel Col McKenzie said, “You can come Scott Bennett the recurring headline “dive `Gabe’ Watson in 2004, garnered to Australia, and Australia will give death” is partly responsible for international headlines, as did the you world-quality diving which is very, crippling the the local dive industry ensuing court case earlier this year. very safe, but we can’t guarantee according to North Queensland the industry is also incensed at you won’t suffer a heart attack,” Mr Smile with a crocodile! tour operators. Although the state’s coverage of people who die of McKenzie said. A spokesman for the tourism industry is flagging generally, medical conditions while diving, which Maritime Union of Australia said there Come face to face with one of the world’s salties in the clear waters of coral reefs, but dive tourism has declined 30 percent can leave businesses struggling to had been two deaths involving the biggest and most dangerous predators in now divers will be able to observe them in in the past 12 months. The release of convince tourists that scuba diving North Queensland dive industry in the the Philippines. their preferred habitat. the film Open Water, loosely based and snorkelling in Queensland is past 12 months. ■ excursions will be guided by German on the disappearance of divers safe. One problem was that the SOURCE: WATODAY.COM.AU Being in the water alongside a saltwater photographer Dieter Heimig and his crocodile is an experience most divers Philippine wife Maygen. Both are long-time would like to avoid at all costs. Philippines- Philippines experts, having led more than Two new artificial reefs created in based Buwaya Adventures now offers the 30 excursions to some of the island state’s unique opportunity to observe and photo- most far-flung regions. Safety is paramount, the Bahamas graph salt-water crocodiles in their natural thanks to strict safety precautions and a habitat. Get up close and personal with team of professionals including a trained Stuart Cove’s Dive Bahamas has announced two new wreck these magnificent reptiles in the mangrove biologist and a crocodile expert. ■ dives are now accessible to scuba divers visiting Nassau. swamps of the island of Palawan. Most The result of a joint effort between Stuart Cove’s and the images published in magazines feature SOURCE: SALTIES.DE Bahamian government, the Anthony Bell and the Long Island Lady are the latest in a series of wrecks established off the coastline of this popular island destination. To date, nearly 20 wrecks have been created to help increase the health of the underwater environment. The Anthony Bell, a decommissioned 90- foot tug boat, was sunk in 50 feet of water off the south side of Goulding Cay New supersonic aircraft is set to in mid-August. The Long Island Lady is a fishing boat that sat revolutionize 21st century air travel neglected in the Nassau harbour for a number of years. After being thoroughly cleaned up by volunteers, the vessel was With a non-stop range of more than 4,000 nautical miles, then moved out to her sinking this past June. The 70-foot ves- the Quiet Supersonic Transport (QSST) is set to revolution- sel sits on a rocky bottom at about 40 feet next to the tongue ize air travel in the 21st century. Up to twelve passengers of the ocean wall that drops down to 6500 feet. will be able to travel in large cabin comfort to global Stuart Cove’s destinations in half the time taken by converntional air- Dive Bahamas craft. offers a variety Flying at uninterrupted supersonic speeds over land of wreck div- and sea, QSST is the only jet with a patented design to ing packages revolutionize travel with a low “shaped sonic signature” in additional which is over 100 times quieter than the recently retired to other div- Concorde. Advanced technologies will help to reduce ing options. takeoff and landing sound, making it virtually indiscern- For additional able to people on the ground below. information, J. Michael Paulson founded Supersonic Aerospace go to www. International (SAI) in 2000 to fulfill his late father’s dream StuartCove. of making quiet supersonic flight a reality. SAI’s vision, com ■ SOURCE: plan and team, coupled with Lockheed Martin’s superior EXAMINER.COM technical design, will make this concept a reality. ■ SOURCE: SAIQSST.COM Click on image to watch the sinking of the Anthony Bell 18 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The FActs and viewpoints in this section ARE NOT NECESSARILY THE VIEWS OF x-ray mag. EQUIPMENT PRESENTED IN THIS SECTION HAve NOT BEEN tested BY x-ray MAG STAFF, NOR ARE THE ITEMS warranteEd. information PROVIDED IS CONDENSED from manufacturers’ DESCRIPTIONS. Texts are usually edited for length, clarity and style. Links are active at the time of publication Beuchat VR200 Evolution point & click Designed for diving in temperate on bold links or cold waters and fitted with Beuchat’s patented “anti- freeze system”. The sec- ond stage is fitted Crank it up! with a thermal exchanger Edited by which pro- Arnold Weisz tects the system from freezing dur- Equipment ing cold water dives. According to the Mares Icon HD manufacturer this design The ICON HD computer is a true full-color makes it very stable display computer. It comes with a screen down to 100 meters made using LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) depth. with TFT (Thin Film Transistor) technology. 4MP ports and 2 HP The Icon allows you to reprogram the ports, balanced and processor as it comes with a rewritable adjustable second stage chip for software upgrades. Further fea- and adjustable venturi flow. tures; Nitrox mode with 3 different oxygen www.beuchat.fr mixes, integrated interface, rechargeable lithium batteries, map function and pic- tures function. Air integration upgrade will be available from spring 2010. Tusa IQ-750 Element II www.mares.com The Element II can be operated as an Air computer, Nitrox (EANx) computer, a dig- ital depth gauge/timer or as a free dive depth gauge/timer. Features include: Water-activation, 2 Mix Gas Switching ability, a large alphanumeric and backlit display, audible and visual alarms, advanced user safe- BARE ty settings, and PC AquaLung download/upload. Scuba The IQ-750 adds a Pro LT Deep Stop function for enhanced safety. Kayak The Pro LT weight-inte- The deep stop mode is The inflatable dive Kayak is grated, jacket style BC is activated when a dive designed to provide stability and the latest addition to AquaLungs exceeds 80 FT (24M) for versatility. By incorporating three fins in family of “Pro” BCs. It packs features, style and more than 1 second. Upon the rear, this kayak has great tracking ability in durability into an affordable package. Weight ascent. Additional features; waves and wind, and is extremely stable and manoeuvra- integration features the SureLock™II (patented) advanced 3 button puck-style ble. In the rear is a tank cradle to secure your gear as you paddle. 420 mechanical lock and release mechanism. The weight module in wrist boot, audible Denier Nylon top deck with tarpaulin rear deck and underside, heavy- pockets align themselves. A simple, single-pull release and Flashing Icon Alarms, 1 touch duty nylon straps with buckles to secure tank and equipment, metal “D” is all that is needed to jettison the weights in an emer- log access, automatic altitude adjust- rings to clip your equipment to prior to entry and exit, velcro straps to gency. A new, proprietary backpack has a built in ment from sea level to 14,000’, a user- secure paddle, inflatable seat with high back support for comfort. Weight: traction pad to reduce tank slippage as well as a replaceable battery. www.tusa.com 40 lbs Max Capacity: 425 lbs www.barescubadiving.com built in carrying handle. www.aqualung.com

19 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The mouthpiece is fitted with a bailout switch—the lever on the top left. Flip the lever to horizontal, and you breathe from the open system instead of the closed circuit. Essentially, it is a regular second stage that has been review combined with the rebreather mouthpiece

It was not without some positive antici- At first, I found pation that I went to Poseidon’s com- the unit to be pound on the outskirts of Gothenburg— a bit top-buoy- Sweden’s second largest city. As long ant, but that is term readers of this magazine are aware, not unusual in I have been following the development rebreathers due of their new rebreather from the sidelines to the breath- for quite a while. Now, I was going to ing loop. This is take it for a dive. often countered by placing some Trying out Poseidon’s Discovery / CIS-Lunar Mk 6 Closed Circuit Rebreather Getting it going took just a few easy of the weights steps. First, you analysed and verified somewhere your breathing gas with an analyser—a on top of the routine of which any nitrox certified divers unit. In this case, is also similar to performing it on open Don & Dive CCR are well familiar. Next, you assembled tightening all the straps for a snug fit did circuit except that the diver needs to the unit, which was quickly done. The much of the trick, and it soon felt very exhale just the exact amount of air, and Poseidon’s components—loop, electronics and can- comfortable. no more, to purge water from the mask compact ister—all seemed to just snap or click into the low weight and compact profile in order not to waste gas unnecessarily. Closed Circuit place with no further ado. of the unit, where the centre of gravity once it had been rigged, the user then sits so much closer to one’s body than in Comments Rebreather is performed what is referred to as a ‘nega- other and much bulkier rebreathers, was Overall, I found diving the Discovery was fully automated tive test’, during which the diver creates something I soon came to appreciate. an uncomplicated, relaxed and enjoy- and aimed at a vacuum in the breathing loop simply When diving a closed circuit rebreather, I able experience—a bit like driving an the recrea- by sucking out air and then closing the often feel embedded in bulky equipment automatic car rather than a stick shift. mouth piece. The hoses should remain like a medieval knight in armour who has the build felt reassuringly solid and tional diver. deflated. If they popped back into to be hoisted onto his horse. By contrast, well thought out with the few kinks We won- shape, it meant that the unit wasn’t tight, this unit was light and as easy to wear as seen on the prototypes now ironed out. dered how and all connections and seals had to be a standard open circuit system. According to Poseidon’s Jens Sjöblom, well it met its rechecked. the unit has now been extensively tested once this test was passed, the unit Bailout valve and dived in many parts of the world design tar- could be switched on, and from here My only gripe was that the mouth- under a wide variety of circumstances, get, so we on, the electronics performed another piece was tugging on my jaw, but that and the software has undergone 42 took it for a 35 different tests, including a ‘positive seems to be a common problem for all builds during the process of refining it. test’ during which the loop is slightly over rebreathers. Switching to open circuit in the unit is supervised by what is called spin. pressurized, again to check for leaks— case of a bail-out is simply accomplished a Resource Management Algorithm, prompting the user to i.e. open valves or by flipping the lever on the mouthpiece. the function of which is, put simply, to Poseidon’s close the mouthpiece. Opening and closing it comes easy. combine or merge the functions of the Discovery was the diver just has to follow the instruc- i did a couple of standard routines dive computer with the monitoring of listed in Popular tions. The whole sequence takes three to such as taking off the mask and going onboard supplies (gas, battery life, scrub- Science maga- four minutes after which the unit is ready on open circuit and back, and again, ber, etc) and operation (i.e. sensor integ- zine’s Best of to dive. the task load at any given point seemed rity) into a single instrument display that What’s New pretty similar to what you would do with tells you everything you really need to awards in 2008 Into the water a standard scuba system. I ended up know—essentially, how much dive time So, I slipped into the harness and tight- getting a little water into the mouth- the diver has left before he or she runs ened the buckles. The unit was no heavi- piece, but a barrel-roll to the right out of air or goes into deco. er to wear than a standard scuba system drained the water into the water trap and felt like a compact backpack. I slid and down the counterlung from where it Limitations into the water and immediately got to could be purged. That manoeuvre also As the Discovery is specifically built with appreciate the silence that is the hall- cleared that annoying gurgling sound. the recreational diver in mind, not the mark of rebreathers. clearing a mask while on closed circuit tech diver, it comes with a number of

20 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Setpoints explained

A Closed Circuit Rebreather can be likened to a transportable nitrox- blender, which always provides the diver with the optimal blend of breathing gases. With enriched air nitrox, we would usually want the oxygen content to be as high as pos- sible, and the content of nitrogen— which is the culprit in DCS—as low possible. but too much oxygen is not good The Discovery performs an automatic smooth transition from low ot high either. Prolongued exposure to high setpoint (the sigmoid purple curve). See sidebar for furhter explanation. partial pressure of oxygen can lead to seizures—not a good thing when preset limitations. It is rated to max able changes in buoyancy, nor you are underwater. So, within recre- 40 meters and is not meant for does the user need to worry ational diving, the upper limit is con- decompression diving, though it about doing the changes. ventionally set at at 1.3 bar partial will continue to function and pro- pressure oxygen (pO2). In the case of vide life support should the diver Facing the music the Discovery, 1.2 bar pO2 has been accidentally end up in the decom- As with so many other rebreath- chosen. pression zone or exceed any other ers, this one too has been this partial pressure is what the limits. greeted with both criticism and rebreather is trying to maintain at Should this happen, or any other scepticism—just like what the a constant level by varying the problem, an alarm will go off. A Inspiration CCR was subjected oxygen-% in the breathing loop in cascading system of alerts with a to when it came out. Some of response to the changing depths. light and a vibrator on the mouth- it is fair, factual and relevant, however, there is a snag with piece as well as buzzer in the bat- but most of it not. this fine principle; It is impossible to tery compartment will draw the is it perfectly designed? achieve a partial pressure of 1.3 bar diver’s attention to the display on Surely not—no machine ever at the surface where the ambience which is shown what the issue is. is—and accidents will ultimately pressure is only 1 bar. If the rebreath- happen. But the Discovery er tried to achieve this level, it would Notable feature seems quite well-designed, just keep inflating the breathing loop If I am to pick out from my extensive and from what I am able to with oxygen perhaps until it popped notes a notable function, or fea- judge through just a single try like a ballon. ture, my choice would be how the dive, asking a lot of probing Needless to say, we would need Discovery handles pO2-setpoints. In questions, and going over the to start off with a lower oxygen par- most rebreathers, the diver changes documentation, it is evident tial pressure. This is conventionally 0.7 the setpoints up and down at his or that at lot of time, money and bar pO2, which at the surface where her discretion; typically the switch is good thinking was sunk into the there is 1 bar translates into 70% made around six meters. Switching development of this unit. nitrox. to the highest point means injection At a glance, it thus appears once one is below the surface, of oxygen into the breathing loop to have fulfilled its design crite- one wants to go from the 0.7 bar to creating a buoyancy spike, which ria of being a straight forward the 1.3 (or 1.2) bar pO2. When the has to be countered i.e. by simulta- automated CCR for the rec- change is performed manually, typi- neously dumping gas from a suit or reational divers to use. How the cally at a depth of 6-10 meters, it is BCD. The Discovery removes both market is going to take to it is referred to as changing setpoints. these potential stressors by applying another question—only time will on many rebreathers, this is a smooth and automated transition tell. done by flipping some switches. of the pO2-setpoint which goes the unit is CE-approved, Descending, one changes from a from 0.5 bar pO2 at the surface to weighs 15 kg including tanks low to a high setpoint, and when one 1.2 bar pO2 at 12 meters. This way, but excluding harness and ascends, one switches from a high to there will be no sudden or discern- wing. ■ a low setpoint. ■

21 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Reefs & Rainforests Conservation Success Stories in Borneo’s Sabah

Text and photos by Andrea & Antonella Ferrari www.reefwonders.net Encompassing an area of rou- ghly 460 square kilometers just off Northern Sabah’s shores, right where Malaysian Borneo’s landmass, small offshore islands and interna- tional waters intermingle with their Philippine counterparts in the Sulu Sea, lies the Sugud Islands Marine Conservation Area, or SIMCA, for friends. The island of Lankayan and its two neighbouring sisters Billean and Tegaipil have been declared since the year 2000 part and parcel of the protected area in what has since proven—beyond any doubt— to be an extraordinary landmark in the history of eco-tourism.

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Bridled anemonefish; Sunset on the pier at Lankayan; Dive boat racing to a dive site

Destructive practices such as cyanide ting to be scientifically described. Marine life fishing, reef bombing and deep-water SIMCA’s main topside landmarks Fish life is unbelievably abundant, trawling—which had been regular- are the uninhabited and sun-scor- luring in fleets of trawlers from both ly employed in the area for several ched islands of Billean and Tegaipil, countries and the occasional big years by local and Philippine fisher- and of course, the fabled Lankayan game fisherman. It was two of these, men—are today no more allowed in Island—the only one with a human Ricky Chin and Kenneth Chung—two the surrounding waters. Turtle eggs presence. Lankayan boasts a world- friends from the nearby coastal town are regularly collected from nests dug famous, upper-class, and most of of Sandakan—who discovered it in the sand and safely hatched under all, eco-friendly dive resort, sitting in several years ago during one of their controlled conditions for reintroduc- splendid isolation on this tranquil little big game fishing forays, and who tion in the wild, and many other private island in the midst of the Sulu made friends with Haji Bambi, the conservation programmes are now Sea. only man who back then was living being—and will be in the future— Since our first visit to Lankayan more there, after a life rich in adventures vigorously implemented by Sugud than twelve years ago, we immedia- in the sea between Sabah and the Islands Marine Conservation Area’s tely realized there was something spe- Philippines. (SIMCA) managing company Reef cial about the place. The island (or to make a long story short, their Guardian, a private venture working “Pulau” in Malay) is strategically situa- meeting was at the origin of Pulau in strict accordance with the Sabah ted between the coast of Sabah and Lankayan as we know it today—a Wildlife Department. the myriad of islands spreading from small, pristine tropical island on which the area within the borders of the Southern Philippines. Its very name a quiet, elegant resort caters to the SIMCA consists of a beautiful envi- means, in fact, “the last outpost”. This needs of discerning divers and vaca- ronment encompassing small unin- labyrinthine maze of shallow turquoise tioners from the world over. A per- habited coral sand islands, patches waters and jungle-clad sandy cays fect holiday destination, the place of mangroves, huge seagrass beds, has hidden and protected for centu- —a tiny dot in the Sulu Sea about shallow sandy flats and an immense ries the secret sea lanes used by pira- one-and-a-half hours by speedboat number of submerged coral reefs that tes, poachers, smugglers, and even from the coastal town of Sandakan host an enormous number of marine assassins. in Malaysian Sabah, on the island species, many of which are still wai- of Borneo—is a gorgeous, picture- PREVIOUS PAGE: Elephant in jungle; Rainforest frog; Orang-utan; Diver and feather corals; Pin-striped wrasse 23 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

perfect cay, boasting pure white sandy in the distance, and the jungle-shrouded branchs, dwarf cuttlefish, fluorescent fire beaches and a lovely, garden-like jungle mountains of Sabah tower on the hori- urchins with attendant crabs and huge interior, offering the exhilarating diving zon, bathed in golden glorious sunsets. lobsters dot the sand and coral bottom one has come to expect from Sabah’s An informal, friendly, casual atmos- of each and everyone of the thirty- dive sites (shallow coral reefs, unsurpas- phere adds to the pleasant feeling of plus dive spots Lankayan offers at the sed macro life, undescribed new spe- “away-from-it-all” relaxation. Everything moment. cies waiting to be discovered, big fish is so well spaced out and cleverly plan- the list of rare species regularly obser- action, enormous biodiversity, interesting ned you might sometimes think you’re all ved here includes robust and ornate wrecks). alone by yourself on the island. ghost pipefish, frogfish, mandarinfish, Add to the mixture an exquisitely sty- blue-ringed octopus, wonder octopus led, upscale resort, elegant and comfor- Diving and giant jawfish. Larger sightings along table twin-sharing seafront chalets with The diving is at shallow to medium dep- the reef include lots of harmless bam- private and well-appointed bathrooms, ths, always enjoyable, never risky or fati- boo and coral cat sharks, blue-spotted an open-air restaurant offering great guing. The dive center is well equipped rays, yellowtail and chevron barracu- food and a spectacular sundeck with an and ideally situated at the end of the das, huge shoals of scads and robust endless expanse of turquoise water just long jetty. The island staff are, if possible, fusiliers, giant bumphead parrotfish, a a few feet below, and you’ll see why we even more cheerful and willing to help large variety of scorpionfish and lots of love the place. than in the rest of Sabah, Malaysia—a leopard (or zebra, as they are sometimes here’s a private exotic island where country remarkable for its extraordinary called) sharks. even non-divers can enjoy the perfect tradition of hospitality. chance encounters with bigger fish holiday, relaxing on the beach or snor- Small species here—many absolutely are not uncommon: very large adult kelling in the crystal-clear shallow waters fascinating and quite a few still undescri- blacktip sharks are commonly observed of the lagoon, while sea eagles fly over, bed by science—reign supreme: resplen- in several of Lankayan’s outer dive sites, Batfish in coral garden; Sundeck at Lankayan their piercing screeches tearing the sky dent gobies, unbelievably colourful nudi- whale sharks patrol in season the open Resort; Diver with large anemone 24 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Linedcheeked wrasse; Lionfish; Snorkeler in bay at Lankayan; Mug shot of moray eel

water between the island and grays, frogfish, scorpionfish, for wide angle lovers and big the mainland, while giant gui- lionfish and huge shoals of fish addicts, especially since tarfish—locally known as malu- pelagics—and what is left (very it quite common encounte- malu—are a rarer sighting. little, alas!) of an historically ring large animals during the During our most recent trip significant armed barge belon- course of a single dive (our there, we bumped into a ging to the “Mosquito Fleet”, record is five leopard sharks, three-meter long Galapagos which served the Japanese one huge mangrove stingray, shark leisurely cruising at a and sunk during World War II. a whale shark and a roving depth of five meters, and one word of advice: due pack of five adult blacktip many of our Sabahan friends to its close proximity to the sharks in one day!). have told us about occasional coast of Sabah with its atten- Lankayan is a macro life tiger shark sightings. dant run-off from big muddy paradise with few compa- A fascinating array of rivers and oil palm planta- risons but no destination for spectacular species is also tions, underwater visibility at wide angle photographers, encountered at the two Lankayan is usually far from and divers must think of it wrecks in the vicinity of perfect, even if there are more in terms of a successful Lankayan: the imposing unpredictable exceptions. conservation story than as a remains of a huge Chinese While this is of no conse- gin-clear water destination. As wooden fishing vessel sunk on quence at all for macro pho- a tropical island destination purpose—now home to giant tographers and videographers, for honeymooners, snorkellers, groupers, giant marbled stin- it may prove quite frustrating diving families and macro rese-

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CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Blenny; Eggs in the oven; Eye of blue spotted stingray; Goby on hard coral; Leopard shark resting; Scorpionfish; Map puffer fish

archers, it has however very few later sold to Chinese restaurants) equals anywhere. and trawling (with weighted nets but to Ken Chung, managing which scrape the sea bottom floor, director of PSR—the dive resort destroying everything in their path) company which also owns and would soon take their toll if left operates Kapalai resort, close to unchecked. world-famous Sipadan Island, and the first tentative conservation the jungle resort in Sepilok—there is efforts soon paid off: feeding a more to Lankayan than just tourism. resident population of baby and With the passing of time, Ken juvenile blacktip sharks encoura- Chung realized the intricate envi- ged the endangered predators ronment of Pulau Lankayan and its to stick close to the island reefs, surrounding coral reefs were going away from roving fishermen in the to be endangered soon. The very open sea; scores of hawksbill and same marine life which attracted green turtle eggs, laid in the sand tourists and divers from all over the by their mothers, would be dug out world was acting as a beacon for and hatched inside fences which fishing boats, raiding these waters in protected them from predators, always greater numbers. and hatchlings would be carefully Local fishermen and their released into the sea; the cutting counterparts from the Philippines of trees and shrubs on the island would not hesitate to resort to would be kept to a minimum, and highly destructive fishing methods, all trash and refuse would be care- largely and for a long time in use fully disposed of. on Sout East Asian coral reefs: fish We were there all the time, twice bombing (in which home-made a year, to see and follow the grow- and quite dangerous bombs con- th of an eco-friendly mentality sisting of a bottle full of fertilizer are on the island. Year after year, we thrown in the water or on coral noticed how the steps taken in the reefs), cyanide fishing (in which the right direction would not interfere noxious chemical is squirted using with the functioning of the resort, a spray bottle among the nooks the relaxed, laid-back atmosphere, and crannies of the reef to stun fish which still unfailingly impresses first-

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time visi- patrol and manage such a huge area. More methods of rubbish and non-solid waste tors. was needed. disposal have been developed and resear- the place ched, to first minimize and then completely was good—but Reef Gardian it was getting Enter Reef Guardian, the private com- better. Big fish pany which now works side-by-side with sightings became the norm— the Malaysian Government and the Wildlife we missed the Giant guitarfish Department of Sabah to manage and con- but many others did not, and we were serve the area. A lot of hard work, tireless the first ever to capture on film the incuba- lobbying and clever political maneuvering tion of eggs in the oral cavity by the ende- succeeded at last in transforming the dream mic Giant jawfish. in reality. In 2003, the Marine Protected Area CLOCKWISE FROM We swam with huge Whale sharks, we (MCA) of the Sugud Islands was finally offi- RIGHT: Whale witnessed the violent courtship ritual and cially declared. The playground of a lucky shark, the largest subsequent mating of Leopard sharks, and few had become a winning example of eco- fish in the sea; Two we found lovely Zebra crabs and Coleman’s logical conservation through the cooperation baby sea turtles shrimps tucked among the venomous spines between private enterprise and the state. make their way to of fire urchins. Marine life was improving, the pSR, through its subsidiary, Reef Guardian, the open ocean; Copperband but- unmistakable signs were everywhere. The protects and conserves the natural resources terflyfish (inset); hard and sometimes dangerous job of resort of the area, reinvesting part of the profits into Two Coleman manager, Ricky Chin—always ready to jump its management. Patrol boats have been shrimp on fire on a speedboat to chase away poaching bought and equipped staff members have urchin; Feather fishermen—was giving welcome results. been employed and well trained. Marine coral and sponges but then it became clear a single private biologists have been invited to conduct sur- operation would not be enough to properly veys and a census of the marine life. New

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Hairy squat lobster; Hawkfish and fan coral; Enjoying a sunset swim at Lankayan; Nudibranch Chromodoris coi; Aerial view of the island of Lankayan

gile marine ecosystem of Lankayan for us all to enjoy. the story of Lankayan shows what can be done when an individual with a thinking brain, a clear vision (and admittedly a lot of capital) can do when he sets his mind on eco-tourism and marine environment protection. Its success has recently led to the creation of a second eco-friendly upscale dive resort, this time on the nei- ghboring island of Billean. From what we have seen—it will probably open in 2010—it promises to be even better than the origi- nal one on Lankayan.

Concluding thoughts habitats as a whole is the first unavoidable step We have travelled and dived the world far towards protection of single species, and habitat and wide, but the story of Pulau Lankayan protection needs lots of money to be implemented and the Sugud Islands Marine Conservation correctly. The costs are high, but as the axiom says, Area is still quite unique in our experience. “think globally, act locally”. avoid the seepage of nitrates (the bane of island Most dive resort operators are not really willing to patrols must be regularly mounted, staff must be resorts with no sewer systems) in the surrounding, pri- embark onto such a far-reaching voyage, being properly trained in field procedures and regularly stine sea waters. contented to mind their own business, failing to paid, expensive equipment must be acquired and the huge problem of phosphates coming from oil realize the extent of consequences when the local mantained, research must be done and updated, plantations on the coast and being flooded out to government (and people) are not actively involved. data must be stored and analyzed. sea —where they lead to plankton and algal bloo- how many private entrepreneurs have actually Without money, there’s no protection, and without ming, putting the survival of coral colonies at risk— succeeded in having the government declare a protection only destruction will follow. The proper by rains and rivers is going to be tackled soon. And protected area around their own island or stretch management of a successful dive resort and ope- many more steps will surely be taken in the future to of land? How many tourist and dive operators have ration such as Lankayan points the way in the right preserve, defend and re-habilitate the splendid, fra- actually tried and fought to do so? Protection of direction. The results are there for all to see. ■

28 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sepilok Sabah In the forest realm of the Orang-utan

Text and photos by big red-haired apes, their extraordi- take the coiled shape of the pit Andrea and Antonella Ferrari nary prowess in tree-climbing and viper waiting in ambush. A little upside-down vine-dangling, and patience will repay the visitor with The biggest mistake one after having been dutifully moved extraordinary gifts. could do while visiting the to the depth of the heart by their And after having experienced soulful gaze (no other primate looks the tropical forest in its full com- Sepilok lowland tropical at you like an orang-utan does), plexity, even the orang-utans will forest would be watching the visitors should stay a little longer appear in a new, full, more com- the orang-utans, or rather, in the forest, to take a leisurely stroll plex dimension, encomprising their watching only the orang- along the well-marked trail in the role in the ecology of the forest company of a biologist and guide and their extremely difficult situa- utans. That is because this from the Rehabilitation Center. tion at the present time, when formidable stretch of wil- it is then, and only then, that one their survival in the wild is severely derness—wisely preserved will be able to hear the hypnotic, endangered by logging, mining just a few miles from the cycada-like song of the tree frogs, and general habitat encroach- the booming, cackling call of the ment by human beings. Their’s is a modern bustle of Sandakan great hornbill, the soft rustle in the complex problem, and one which town—offers an unequalled dead leaves on the forest floor at touches us all: the preservation, opportunity to observe in the passing of a bronze skink. Only not of a single species, but of full then, the metallic shine of spider habitats is rapidly becoming one of comfort the utterly complex eyes will be apparent; only then, the most important concerns of the mechanisms of nature at the dead brown little branch will new century. work in the tropics. start walking with the hesitant steps of the stick insect; and it is only Where to stay THIS PAGE: Orang-utans lounge in the trees of the After having admired for as long as then, that the bright green leaf So, to take the time needed to fully forest at Sepilok’s Rehabilitation Center; Green needed the delicate grace of the buds on a low shrub will suddenly appreciate the ancient rhythms of snake hides among the branches (above) Sepilok Calotes lizard 29 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

the forest, and grasses and a collection of more than the best 150 different Asian orchid species. The Orang- thing one Utan Rehabilitation Center (where young could do captive or abandoned orang-utans are being is stay at helped by a highly trained and motivated least a few staff to readjust to a life in the wild) and the days at actual Sepilok Forest Reserve are just a couple the Sepilok of minutes’ walk away, and the Resort staff Nature are happy to organize birding, trekking and Resort, river trips to the neighbouring areas (inclu- a most ding the fauna-rich Sukau area along the beautiful Kinabatangan River). compound before venturing further away, however, bordering one should first take advantage of the com- on the pro- forts offered by the Sepilok Nature Resort tected area and fully explore the natural wonders of the (it is actually Sepilok-Kabili Forest Reserve, which has not uncom- enough to offer to keep one busy for months. mon to have Here, insects, amphibians, reptiles and birds orang-utans, abound; the trails are very well marked; and macaques or the local guides are friendly, reliable and even pythons wandering around among the extremely knowledgeable. Visits to Sepilok are chalets) and perfectly integrated with the sur- also usually combined with dive trips to the rounding forest. beautiful island of Lankayan, which is owned Set in a spectacularly landscaped private and managed by the same company. ■ area of manicured lawns, orchid gardens and rolling hills, the fully airconditioned (and very comfortable) twin bed chalets feature beau- CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sepilok Resort tiful lake or jungle view verandas and private restaurant overlooking a jungle lined lake; bathrooms with hot water. The surrounding Orchids of the forest; Brilliant colored bee- park, which would take half a day to explo- tle found in the forest; Another splendid re, offers an amazing array of tropical plants orchid on the grounds; Sepllok Resort bun- galows; Pair of orchids (inset)

30 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED KinabatanganA trip to Borneo’s hidden jewel

Text and photos by Andrea and Antonella Ferrari The lowland riverine forest, encompassing the exten- sive Kinabatangan river basin and its 26,000-hectare wildli- fe sanctuary, has few rivals in the world for remoteness, rich- ness of animal species and just sheer natural beauty. At the same time, this spectacular and mostly untouched wilderness of Malaysian Borneo is very acces- sible and easily explored — usually by small boat during the day or walking by night or late one-hour long boat trip that ends at one all very clean and very well organized), Kinabatangan river basin with its enor- cared for. Regularly subject to tides and evening. of the riverside resorts’ pier. More and good standards and very tasty Sabahan mous, eerily beautiful oxbow lagoons periodical inundations during the rainy more guesthouses, jungle camps and food, often using locally acquired, fresh and many small, twisting tributaries is by season, in a perennial state of flux and Departing from Sandakan harbour, visi- fully-fledged forest lodges have been organic products such as delicious vege- booking a week-long stay via a specia- sparsely populated along its banks by tors can easily reach the Sanctuary’s recently popping up along the river’s tables or fruit and big river prawns grown lized wildlife travel agency in Sandakan; small fishing and farming communities, headquarters in Sukau—where most of banks, all offering excellent accomo- and farmed by the local Orang Sungai service is usually excellent and specific the Kinabatangan river basin represents the lodges are located—by a scenic dations (of varying level and cost, but (river people). The best way to visit the needs of visitors are normally very well a very unique natural environment, pea-

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cefully shared by humans and a good telephoto wildlife. (VR-equipped or with a sturdy tripod) for all The Importance the big and not so big of a Good Guide species you’ll observe The Kinabatangan river basin during the day from the is a wildlife photographer’s safety your boat, and a good canoe powered by both petrol dream come true, as most flash, and your macro lens of and electric engines to start the Borneo wildlife is not only richly choice for all the weird and day’s explorations. The boats represented in the area but wonderful little critters you’ll see are lightweight, flat-bottomed also often easily sighted and at night. and very stable, making an photographed around Sukau, being in Borneo, a sun hat excellent platform for a pho- provided one knows where and and a lightweight rain poncho tographer’s tripod – the local when to look. This is obviously a are nice to have around, espe- boatmen employed by the destination where the services cially if you plan to spend a lot lodges take great pride and of an experienced local wildlife of time exploring the river by are very good at switching from guide are a must, especially boat. Night walks are safe and petrol to electric just at the for those taking their exploring easy (leeches are harmless and right time to allow as close an seriously. nothing to worry about), but approach to wildlife as human- We had a stroke of luck and bring a pair of strong, comfor- ly possible. had the time of our lives with table jungle or trekking ankle Most exploration takes place Dennis Ikon, a native, self-tau- boots and a small torch with at a leisurely pace along the CLOCKWISE: ght enthusiast who is not only you, and be prepared to get Kinabatangan muddy banks Harlequin a very experienced rainforest very wet and very muddy. and up its small, meandering gliding frog; guide but also a passionate tributary, the extraordinarily Crab-eating wildlife photographer to boost, Where to go scenic Menanggol. It’s a good macaque; Mouse always ready to recognize a & what to do in Sukau idea to book one’s accomo- deer; Wagler’s pit photographer’s special need The average day in Sukau starts dation as close as possible viper; Proboscis mon- key male on tree trunk; or request without even being just before dawn, with the fara- to its mouth, as the winding Mangrove snake resting asked; he certainly made the way hok-hok of some distant course of the forest-canopied among branches difference for us. He has wor- hornbill welcoming the first Menanggol is a favourite desti- ked many times with big-time, warm rays of the sun over the nation for wildlife enthusiasts PREVIOUS PAGE: Pied exceedingly demanding pros steaming jungle. After a lovely and birdwatchers visiting the Hornbill; Visitors exploring such as Frans Lanting, so he breakfast at the lodge, visitors Kinabatangan area. So, to the Menanggol tributary, knows his trade well! hurry down the river side jetty enjoy it at is most evocative, an oxbow lagoon of Remember to take with you to board a small, low aluminum unpopulated best, it’s better the Kinabatangan

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CLOCKWSIE FROM INSET BELOW: A flower by the river; Buffy fishing owl at night; Stick insect; Water monitor; Rainforest katy- did mimicking a leaf; Large Saltwater or Estuarine crocodile in the Menanggol

offering wonderful opportuni- theless officially considered today to be macaques, wild orangutans and probo- at night and with a warm tropical drizzle ties for safe, comfortable and one of the most important and pristine scis monkeys are commonly observed, shrouding the thick forest. All in all, the very fruitful night walks. areas of wilderness in the whole world, often up close and at length. In fact, the Kinabatangan river basin is a treasure even closer to the coast and and as such, it cannot be missed by wil- Kinabatangan Wildlife Sancuary is the trove of rare, endangered and fascina- branching dlife enthusiasts. Floating down its murky, best spot anywhere to observe the rare ting tropical species, all to be found and out to the deep, slow-flowing waters is like taking a elephant of Borneo, a smallish and frien- often easily observed in a landscape Sulu Sea itself, veritable trip back in time. dlier cousin of the Indian one which has of unrivalled beauty and isolation. As the immense recently been awarded its own species a choice destination for the discerning estuary of the A treasure trove status. wildlife photographer and nature enthu- Kinabatangan for wildlife lovers this is also the land of flying snakes siast, it truly has few equals anywhere, is clogged But what about the animals one can and flying frogs, while those interested and one can only hope its currently in thick, lab- hope to see? Well, we know very few in insects and spiders—often quite large protected status will keep it healthy and to get there before anybody yrinthine, areas outside of the African plains and and very colorful—will keep their came- untouched for many, many more years else, immediately after sunrise. If impenetrable the Venezuelan Llanos where one can ras clicking away, especially if going out to come. ■ you’re staying at a lodge close forest of man- hope to observe and photograph such to its mouth you’ll also be able groves and spectacular amounts of tropical wildli- to linger around for a longer Nipa palms— fe. Remember always, however...this is time in the evening before going primordially South-East Asia—not the Serengeti! back for dinner and your night beautiful and commonly sighted reptile species here walk. If you can afford it and are rich in species are estuarine or saltwater crocodiles serious about your wildlife photo- but not easily (with some very big individuals occa- graphy, go for your own personal guide ex- sionally sighted up close), reticulate and boat. It will surely make a difference. plored or, thankfully, exploited. You will pythons, mangrove and dog-toothed have excellent opportunities to admire cat snakes, bright green temple pit vipers On foot or by boat this unique environment on your way to and very large water monitors, while The thickly forested area around Sukau and from Sukau. among the 250 bird species found in the itself—this is prime virgin lowland diptero- encroached on all sides by rapidly area one can sight, among others, sev- carp country—makes extended explo- developing oil palm plantations—the eral species of large hornbills (including ration on foot rather difficult, but that scourge of Borneo’s primeval forests— the spectacular Rhinoceros hornbill), fish- around the village of Abai—somewhat and endangered by logging plantations, eagles, buffy owls, kingfishers, cuckoos downriver and closer to the coast and which severely curtail the larger animals’ and darters. Among the large mammals, the sea—allows excellent walks on well- migratory routes and forest corridors, the wild pigs, dwarf Bornean elephants, maintained forest trails and boardwalks, Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary is never- river otters, leaf monkeys, long-tailed

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Text and photos by Foundation, created in 1966 for conservation, Andrea and Antonella Ferrari research, education and physical training purposes. The nearest town, Lahad Datu—a —A pristine, virgin rainforest quiet, smallish settlement at the crossroads between Sandakan and Tawau, which can The crown jewel of the untouched be easily reached by car or twin-engine tur- nature of Borneo, the legendary boprop flight from both centers—is about 82km away (about a two-hour drive by four- Danum Valley Conservation Area is wheel drive vehicles on mainly unpaved the largest protected lowland dip- washboard logging roads in good weather, terocarp primary forest in Sabah, but be prepared for a much longer Camel Malaysia. This pristine, untouched Trophy-style slog if it has been raining!). Given its formidable isolation and impene- area of extraordinary beauty holds trable rainforest cover, accomodation in the an unique status among other pro- area is presently limited to two basic choices: tected areas. Before it became a the Danum Valley Field Centre, a research conservation area, there were no establishment reserved for scientists and edu- cation purposes only; while the other, rather human settlements within the area, splendid (and understandably rather expensi- meaning that hunting, logging and ve) Borneo Rainforest Lodge, has been crea- other human interference was non- ted with conservation and low-environmental impact in mind for tourists to stay. From its existent. beautiful, well-appointed chalets, visitors can take long, guided walks through lowland rain- This makes the area one-of-a-kind among forest trails, while other activities include night Danum other protected areas in Sabah—evidenced walks (serious wildlife photographers should The valley where time at first glance by both the number of animal not miss these) and night drives (avoid these, sightings and the sheer scope of its water- which are crowded, noisy and not really sui- stands still soaked, luxuriant rainforest. Danum Valley ted to the local environment—rainforests are covers an area of 438 square kilometres and made for walking). is currently managed by the Yayasan Sabah Visitors on the extensive rainforest canopy walk (above) and a view of the untouched primary Danum jungle (top right) 34 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

CLOCKWISE: Silver leaf monkey feeding at dawn; Perfectly camouflaged Borneo horned frog; A waterfall in the forest; Forest dragon lizard (male) on its perch; Jade tree frogs mating on a rainy night; A colorful Lantern bug (inset)

Fauna & flora with few equals birds commonly observed number amphibians and most often Danum Valley is a world-famous desti- several species of Hornbills (including strange insects of all shapes nation for passionate birdwatchers, Rhinoceros and Helmeted), bee- and sizes, which are usually but its undisturbed, virgin, thick low- eaters, kingfishers, warblers, several quite hard to spot and which land rainforest is home to many other species of forest raptors and many are most easily observed animals including several large mam- others too numerous to mention here, during the guided night walks. mals, many beautiful reptiles and while among the many reptile and amphibians, and countless numbers amphibian species encountered the Rainforest Trekking of exceptionally attractive insects. impressive Reticulate python, at least Long day and night walks Mammals regularly sighted include two different species of Pit viper, the are the best options to fully wild Orangutans, gibbons, leaf mon- strikingly marked Paradise snake, the appreciate the Danum Valley keys, long-tailed and pig-tail maca- colorful Forest dragon lizard and the rainforest environment. Despite ques, wild bearded pigs, mouse deer amazingly well-camouflaged Borneo the apparent drawbacks and sambar deer. Lucky visitors may horned frog all deserve to be mentio- and discomforts—waking also occasionally encounter several ned. up at 5am, slogging in the species of wild cats (including the A lot of first-time visitors mud for hours on end, being “dream date” of South-East Asian to rainforests spend most literally drenched in sweat rainforests, the strikingly beautiful and of their time looking in the and very often even rainfall, incredibly elusive Clouded Leopard), distance and hoping for the the shy Bornean Pygmy elephant— large animals, but the most which is much more easily observed, interesting and fascinating deni- dealing with the occasional but however, along the Kinabatangan zens of this mysteriously beauti- messy leech bite—this is really river basin in the Sukau area—and ful environment are in fact the the only sensible way to enjoy even Malay Sun bears or Sumatran small, secretive, camouflaged the place and fully savour the rhinos (but do not count on the lat- inhabitants of the forest floor wonders it offers. ter!). and canopy: diminutive reptiles, Get yourself a private guide

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LEFT TO RIGHT: A Red-phase Silver monkey feeding in forest canopy. Giant stick insect; Giant Rhinoceros beetle on tree trunk; Harlequin gliding frog

Most important of all, items to take along, too. enormous. We spent a whole week at the take a pair of good hiking Since we’re on the subject, do not let Borneo Rainforest Lodge, and we feel we ankle boots along. This is the local all-pervasive obsession and have barely scratched the surface. Every where synthetic, breatha- paranoia with leeches scare you—these few steps along the forest trails a new ble fabrics such as Cordura fascinating, small rubbery creatures (did diseases, such as malaria or dengue, are fascinating subject would be sighted, and are strongly recommen- you know they can survive with a single transmitted via the bite of these obno- it would not be uncommon for us to walk ded, since they’ll be con- feeding a year if needed?) are comple- xious little winged pests. a few hundred meters only, in more than stantly soaked, and boots tely harmless and do not transmit any three hours, especially at night. in natural materials such as diseases. If you get bitten by one you’ll Impressive environment to the attentive, careful observer and leather or canvas would feel no pain—maybe a little itching later Despite our lifelong experience in rainfo- thanks to its own specific nature, the rapidly rot or mould, often on—but you’ll certainly bleed freely and rests exploration and photography world- Danum Valley environment offers an uni- in a single night’s time. A massively for quite a few hours, as their wide, we could not help being deeply que chance—the possibility not only to sun hat and a rainproof saliva contains both an efficient anes- impressed, and in fact, even awed by the sight wild animals, but to pause at torch will be important thetic and a powerful anticoagulant. The beauty, richness and sheer isolation of length and leisure and watch them blood staining and trickling Danum Valley. This is a virgin, primordial, actually behave i.e. feed, hunt, mate. can look scary to the unini- occasionally demanding environment of This is a rare and precious gift, one which tiated, but it’s no big deal, steaming lush vegetation and glutinous has to be treasured, and Danum offers really. After a day’s trekking ankle-deep mud, of steep ravines and it generously to those willing to listen to from the Borneo Rainforest Lodge if at in the rainforest you’d have gurgling clear forest brooks, of gigantic the sounds of the forests or put their eye- all possible—as everywhere else it will to thoroughly wash your soi- buttress trees and coiled, climbing lianas, sight to good use. Add to this the deeply make the experience completely dif- led clothes anyway! perennially bathed in oppressive heat moving, emotional impact of the un- ferent—and bring cotton clothes only on the good side, and humidity. Incredibly violent down- touched rainforest habitat and the cre- (no artificial fibers!), with long trousers, Danum Valley is almost pours are sudden and frequent, and even ature comforts offered, at the end of long thick socks to tuck them into, and completely mosquito-free, when bathed in searing sunshine the a tiring day, by the beautiful Borneo long-sleeved shirts. Be aware that you’ll and that is really important whole environment is perennially immer- Rainforest Lodge. Whoever thought up be drenched most of time_in your own since most serious tropical sed in a prehistoric, Jurassic Park-like the open-air bathtubs on the wooden sweat and/or rainfall—so it makes no atmosphere. chalet balconies facing the rainforest and sense trying to keep dry at all costs with View from the bathtub- Animal sightings are surprisingly frequent the river was a genius. You will understand nylon ponchos or raincoats, which also equipped balcony of the and near for a rainforest habitat, and why we have fallen in love with Danum rapidly become unbearabbly suffoca- exclusive Borneo Rainforest photographic opportunities for profes- Valley, and why we cannot wait to go ting in the heat. Lodge overlooking the sionals and serious amateurs are simply back there—this time, for a longer stay! ■ Danum River

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www.seacam.com Revisited

Sipadan38 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED peter symes travel Sabah

peter symes

peter symes One of the ubiquitous green turtles taking a good snooze on the reef of Sipadan Island. PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver and cloud of trevally

Text and photos by The list of sightseeing attractions and by get from a airport transfers, hotel Peter Symes and Tim Hochgrebe activities seem inexhaustible. Aptly stays and excursions is anything to go by. named “the land below the wind” not this time, we arrived at a new airport I’ve always been both some- only because it is bypassed by the dev- in Tawau—arriving at the old airport did what envious and intrigued by astating typhoons that occasionally rav- feel like touching down on a couple of age other tropical paradises, but also tennis courts—and the roads here are what Sabah, Malaysian’s east- because, for modern fast-paced execu- now in a much better state. Modern sub- ernmost state have to offer the tives, it is a soothing escape from the big urban residential complexes are gradual- travelling visitor. Great diving city hustle and bustle. ly replacing the ramshackle shantytown of course, but the richness and Upon arrival, the provincial tranquil- of many areas we passed by. Malaysia lity and smaller scale of things in Sabah is only 52 years old as a nation, but the diversity of the abundant top- instills a sense of coming to a safe and determination with which they build their side natural resources such as calm place, which seems to go about society never ceases to impress me, and rainforest and mountain ranges, matters in its own time and direction, returning here after so many years made history and the cultural diversity unperturbed by unrest elsewhere on the the many changes stand out... but were globe. And Sabah has indeed come a they all for the better? is something that few regions long way in a short period of time, if the We were greeted in Tawau airport by peter symes can match. few glimpses these undersigned passers- Clement Lee, CEO of Borneo Divers and Divers and schooling barracuda at Sipadan Island 39 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Tomato grouper Mantis shrimps, which aren’t shrimps, are aggressive and typical- peeks out. They ly solitary sea creatures, spend most of their time hiding in rock are usually formations in which they either wait for prey to chance upon solitary them or, unlike most crustaceans, actually hunt, chase and kill Sabah travel living prey. Mantis shrimp sport powerful claws that they use to attack and kill prey by spearing, stunning or dismemberment

tions 25 years ago. to none. Sipadan was in my previous visit. During most of our 50-minute transfer Island, considered every day we saw massive to Sandakan, we drove by seemingly by many to be the schools of barracudas, treval- endless stretches of oil palm plantations, best dive site on the lies and even humphead which seem to have pushed the rain- planet, is but a short parrotfish. There were always forest back into the distant horizon. boat transfer away to many small sharks—predom- Sandakan, once a sleepy fishing vil- the south. Mabul itself inantly the ubiquitous white lage and our point of departure for is one of the birth- tip sharks— patrol- the boat transfer to Mabul, now places of muck-div- ling the reefs or seems like a bustling town. ing, and with Kapalai napping on the As we enjoyed a smooth ride nearby, there’s also sandy patches. in a high speed boat skimming unparalleled macro- Looking around, across the surface of the sea, diving. Plus, close to umpteen turtles were I couldn’t help pondering the mainland, you peter symes all over the place. As a how life must be like living can dive in the man- diver peers up from the in some of the rickety huts groves. resort facilities there. Tight regulations sea floor, on can see on stilts we passed—which but even with this diversity, it is prob- were imposed on the number of permit- the turtles as have no fresh water or ably safe to say that Sipadan remains the ted day visitors, the management of silhouettes sanitation, let alone coveted star attraction, which pulls visi- which still remains a very conten- electricity—sitting way tors from far and wide. tious issue between the opera- out there on the horizon As such, the island has been and tors who are all vying for a

sym e s in the middle of what remains the centre of much controversy. number of guest permits that is seemed to be the open It was the center of a lengthy battle woefully short of the grow- sym e s pete r

chairman ocean, but must have been between Indonesia and Malaysia, who ing demand. pete r of Sabah Tourism. built on extensive mud flats and sand- vied for sovereignty over the island at the What I have seen over After exchanging courtesies and the ritu- bars. international court in Hague, which only the years there leaves no al “did you have a nice flight?” we soon in 2002, ruled in favour of Malaysia. doubt in my mind that drifted into a discussion about the devel- Diving As the island’s ecosystem is fragile, the these measures were neces- opment the region has been undergoing The range of options on offer within a many concerns over the impact of tour- sary. Sipadan seems to be in Juvenile zebra lionish since Lee came to start his dive opera- short radius from Mabul Island is second ism later led to clearing the island of the a much better state now than it BELOW: Sipadan Island

peter symes 40 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah LEFT: Juvenile spotted sweetlips takes cover. FAR LEFT: The man- grove forests just off Semporna offers a completely different yet underappreciated

tim hochgrebe habitat

peter symes

Butterflyfish were every- where ti m hoch gr ebe against the water’s surface gliding gracefully along the reefs like soaring birds in the sky eclipsing the sun, or plainly snoozing in some crevice on the reef like hung-over teenagers on Sunday morning, totally unaffected by all the wheezing, bubbling visitors tim hochgrebe closing in to take snapshots with their Plenty of grey sharks were patrolling the drop offs along Sipadan underwater cameras. there are about 13 dive sites one had been building up nitrogen on a windy day. One of my per- around Sipadan. When the ocean over the day, and so, there were sonal favourites remains Barracuda is calm, it takes about 20 minutes to decompression issues to consider. Point. I know, it has been covered get from Mabul to Sipadan. Most of But hey, it’s a bit like complaining ad nauseam in so many publica- the diving in Sipadan is a combina- about being fed too much caviar tions before—including this one— tion of wall and drift diving. The vis- and champagne. Sipadan is one but it is not without merit. Here, you ibility was never really great during of those blessed places where you always seem to be able to find a the week we spent there—partly seemingly can’t have a bad time huge school of circling barracudas due to a couple of days of choppy even if you try. seas that stirred up particles—but Here, disappoint- because there was always so much ment is if you peter symes to see, we never really noticed, or only see a small ABOVE: At the aptly least, it never became a concern. school of fish and named Barracuda As the day guest permit system a couple of sea Point, giant schools worked during our visit, the defining turtles. of barracudas measure of the permit was ‘a day’ because of its never let us down not the number of dives permitted. relatively small LEFT: A juvenile scor- Consequently, the excursions to size and it hav- pionfish, perhaps Sipadan were conducted as full day ing dive sites all Poss’s Scorpionfish, outings with four dives and a lunch the way around blending into the break in the middle. its perimeter, it sand FAR LEFT: One At times, I felt that this regime was is always pos- of the species I a little too rigorous, as the forth dive sible to find a never tire of seing; in a day often was of limited quality sheltered spot on the ornate Ghost and use, among other things, since the leeward side peter symes Pipefish peter symes 41 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A tiny translucent coral shrimp of the Periclemens travel species Sabah a snack at the gazebo, which is rangers overseeing and enforc- trips to Sipadan may built on the island. It is also here ing the protection measures, outstrip supply by we have lunch after the second including keeping fishermen and up to a factor of dive. The authorities have also poachers off the island. five to ten. built a proper toilet facility on the island. ti m hoch gr ebe Fresh water is supplied by boat every day and A pumped ashore—a cuttle- fish came out to reassuring sign that the investigate us bubbling crea- facilities aren’t draw- tures with tanks on our backs ing on the small aquifer under the island. fourth consecutive dive often peter symes Aside from the area During peak ends up being so and so, if you around jetty, the periods, vaca- are not the type who’s itching for or trevallies, which, if you move too soon, and like a five-year- gazebo and the toilet tioners who may having yet another dive logged carefully, can end up completely old in an amusement park, I am facilities, the rest of the come from afar in the book. Why not make it 2 encircling you. I get such of kick always left wanting more when island is now off limits could, in a worse x 240 half day permits, so twice out of this—flying in formation time is up. for visitors, though there case scenario, as many may have a chance of inside a huge school of fish as if I between dives, the boat goes is a residing contingent end up finding going? The load on the island will am one of them. It always ends back to the jetty, and we have of soldiers and park themselves going be the same, or even less, as half to Sipadan only day visitors will probably not have once. Curbing the their lunch there. number of visitors in any case, when booking a to Sipadan has trip to the area, pay close atten- been essential to tion to the regulations and advice protect the fragile given on the various home pages island from being and ask how many dives to unsustainably Sipadan can be pre-booked or exploited­­— let guaranteed. peter symes there be no doubt there is also an interesting Wax and polish, Sir? Honeycomb Moray Eel at a about that— but almost perverse twist to the cleaning station enjoys the services of attending but the way the arrangement as well: many of hinge-beak shrimp, giving it the royal treatment while permit system is the resorts are allotted the same bar-gill cardinalfish seem to be looking on with envy currently set up number of day permits, just 14. leaves room for So if you go for the big upscale Permit controversy further improvement. What springs resort accommodating up to As this issue goes to press, the to mind is whether each granted 100 guests, which may be well current system of day permits visitor really needs or want to go booked, you could end up hav- allows for 120 day visitors—no there for the full ing far worse odds of going to overnight stays are allowed day and have Sipadan than anymore. With about 15 four dives each, if you resorts each accommo- as the stay dating some 30-100 guests, with many of which have come here to dive Sipadan in particular, it doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out that demand for day

Our good friend and colleague Tim Hochgrebe from Underwater.com.au Giant Trevally peter symes lives out his inner paparazzi tim hochgrebe 42 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

peter symes

COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Humphead parrotfish are best encoun- tered in the mornings; Scorpionfish are masters of camouflage; Batfish are found everywhere; A couple of yellow shrimp gobies peek out of the burrow in the coral gravel. They usually share their burrow with one or more alpheid shrimp; Sipadan Island park ranger feeds the neighborhood lizard peter symes

crocodile fish and Diving Kapalai away from Sipadan than Mabul, plenty of groupers. It is not really an island but a but still within easy reach and the That was quite a sandbar. If not for the resort bal- muck dive sites around the resort parade. ancing on its stilts on top of the are excellent. A number of artifi- Around these parts shoal, one wouldn’t know it was cial reefs have been established there is rarely a need there except during low tide. around the to move far and most Like Mabul, this location is full of sand banks likely you will find your- small critters: nudibranchs, gobies, of Kapalai self covering an area crabs and what not. A once including no bigger than the resident biologist explained that a few size of a tennis court these islands, which offers shel- ship- during a typical dive. tered shallow bays, act as nurser- Most of your time will ies for a wide range of species. probably be spent there’s mostly sandy bottom, or kneeling on a patch coarse coral gravel, with only few of sand in front of a coral heads. At first sight, it comes peter symes coral block observing across very unassuming—that is, the myriad of small until you catch a glimpse of tion all day long and dive at your and big sea life going about their your first blue ringed octo- leisure. Once upon a time, while daily business. pus, frogfish or ghost peter symes staying at Sipadan Water Village, the reef slopes down at about pipefish. I spotted my very first ghost pipe- 45 degrees just off the jetty before Kapalai is a the small economy-range resort, dive boat. Most of the diving off fish right under their jetty. it levels off into the sandy plateau little bit fur- which can accommodate only 25 Mabul and Kapalai is quite shal- Diving right off Borneo Diver’s surrounding the island at around ther guests. low with depths usually ranging jetty also produced one great 18m. The southern side of Mabul from 5 to 20 meters (15 to 60 encounter after another. On our is fringed by a large sandy Diving Mabul feet). first dive, we came across schools plateau, and the dive There are about 17 dive sites off these places are macro heav- of small barracudas, trumpetfish, sites here are only Mabul and about 13 dive sites en on earth. In fact, most of the several snoozing turtles, shrimp reached by a off Kapalai. Most of the dive sites house reefs are excellent, so you gobies, a couple of harlequin short boat Perhaps it is no wonder can be reached from any of the can often pretty much just base shrimp, different nudibranchs, ride. this fellah on Sipadan resorts in less than 15 minutes by yourself at the resort’s dive sta- a paper frogfish, an octopus, a has gotten so potbellied

peter symes 43 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Another pretty nudi below the resort of Kapalai (far left); Cuttlefish scooting around on the housereef (left); Decorated scal- Sabah travel lop shows its eyes (below)

tim hochgrebe

tim hochgrebe

peter symes tim hochgrebe

A turlte skeleton (above) lays insde the turtle tim hochgrebe cavern; The remains of a dolphin rests on a Spearing Mantis Shrimp (above) ready to ledge inside the cavern (top) Warning at the attack; Chromodoris nudibranch (left) entrance of turlte cavern (inset) tim hochgrebe

towards the end of the day, manda- addition of several other resorts, which pro- rinfish can be seen performing their trude out from the island, has caused the mating dances just below the water’s place to lose a bit of its magic and its sense surface. Unfortunately, the Flamboyant of luxurious remoteness, which was part of Cuttlefish did not want to show itself to the island’s ambience before. And in this me, which just means there has to be regard, whomever is the responsible author- a revisit of this area in the not too dis- ity overseeing the local development should tant future. fare very cautiously in regards to permitting tim hochgrebe further construction on the island. The island is wrecks and what seems to be an old com- Development of Mabul still a paradise to visit but with more visitors it munications tower. The reefs around Kapalai Revisiting the island, it was clear that the would become too busy­—who wants to trav- are generally very shallow, but there is some place has undergone a marked develop- el half way around the world to have a view excellent diving, especially if you are into ment with the resorts now having a bigger of other tourists? This was a sentiment that hunting for the more elusive critters; Yawfish presence. They now dominate the outline was also reflected by several of the opera- with eggs in their mouths, spearing man- of the island. As in so many other places, tors and staff we spoke to during our stay. tis shrimps, big cuttlefish and some excel- progress can be both good and bad. being the investigative journalists that we lent nudibranch action. At Mandarin Valley from a tourist’s viewpoint, we felt that the are, we also wanted to know what effect

peter symes 44 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tanzania

45 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 peter symes EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Sipadan Water Village has also expanded over the years. CENTER: Borneo travel Divers Bunglaw Sabah

reef table, so you can with lockers, showers, toilet and look right down at fish a common area for resting and what not. It has a between dives with complimen- special feeling. As some tary snacks, hot coffee and tea. of the chalets face And from this year onwards, you towards the island, ask can also go kayaking in transpar- if any of the oceanside ent rental kayaks. bungalows are avail- peter symes able. That is, if you’re Kapalai the type who likes day- Kapalai is probably the most dreaming while gaz- luxurious of the available accom- ing out oat the open modation options we have visited ocean. around Sipadan. Once a veg- the resort has now etated tropical island, Kapalai grown to 45 chalets is now no more than a sand bar peter symes built in the local style. with a resort built on top. So, if you

tourism had on the local com- a discrete limousine. It is an all- munity and how the villagers took inclusive resort, which means that the presence of the resorts and all meals and diving is included. all the guests on the island. Many Alcohol and indulgences, such as stated that the number of new the awesome massages we got jobs in the hospitality and con- addicted to, are extras. Meals struction sectors provided them are served buffet style with cui- with good livelihoods. As it turned sine including both Eastern and out, many of the resort staff were Western fare, so each meal satis- recruited from the island. Walking fies most pallets. around on the island, the locals the diving station sits at the seemed very friendly and wel- end of the jetty, and from here, coming, with a lot of goofy kids there is direct access to a splen- happily posing for photographs. did house reef. There is also a lit- tle coffee bar, so one can easily Accommodation spend all day just hanging out Here are descriptions of six of the on the pier. There is also a room 11 resorts found on Mabul Island. for photographers with tables peter symes peter symes and recharging stations. For boat Borneo Divers dives, you sign up on the plan- The chalets have large slide doors like to feel the sand beneath your Traditional dancers perform a wedding dance unique to Mabul villlage; The resort sits on the island itself ning board, after which the staff that open onto a spacious out- feet when staying on a remote Entrance to Borneo Divers lounge and restaurant in contrast to some of the other will bring your kit to the boat and side deck. Meals served in buf- tropical island, this might not be nearby resorts that are construct- mount your kit on a tank. fet style featuring a mixture of for you. However, the resort fea- ocean is that it is safe from mos- stilts off the northern coastline of ed as water villages with bunga- local and continental cuisine are tures luxurious rooms with fantas- quitos, and you can leave your Mabul. The industrial construction lows on stilts over the water. With Sipadan Water Village (SWV) served thee times a day in an tic views over clean blue water, doors and windows wide open. is a bit of an eyesore, which one 30 bungalows, which are now all SWV was the first water village open air restaurant with a seating and for most people, staying in a tries not to notice when enjoying deluxe and arranged around a resort on the island. Guests reside capacity of 150 people at one water resort is a very special and Seaventures the otherwise pristine view from garden with a pool, the resort is in comfortable chalets with patios time. exciting experience. Of course, If money is tight, you might con- Mabul over Borneo. very comfortable and luxurious in that not only overlook the open the dive centre opens from 7:00 one of the additional advantages sider Seaventures—a small former Going over there was an intrigu- a low-profile manner, much like ocean, but also sit right on the am onwards and is equipped of a resort in the middle of the drilling platform that now sits on ing experience through. For one,

Borneo Divers Mabul Sipadan Water Village Sipadan-Kapalai Resort Sipadan-Mabul Resort SMART <<< Check out the videos from the resorts 46 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Seaventures ‘s platfom sits a couple of hun- dred meters off Sabah travel Mabul

painful,” but I was soon forced to eat my own words. They were real- ly good, and I thoroughly enjoyed their performance of skillfully impro- vised classic rock ballads and lyri-

sym e s cal classics. The various vocalists had good voices, the drummer pete r was an artist with his sticks, and Seaventures is the most economical of the resorts the guitarist could jam like there visited was no tomorrow. In fact, I wasn’t ready to go, when the elevator our boat came that takes one to take us back up to the main to our residence platform is also on Mabul. I had a used to lower great evening, but divers all the the accommoda- peter symes tim hochgrebe way down until tion was not really they are chest- to my liking. high in the Under the plat- water. We were form is an artificial having drinks reef, which is now on the platform one of listed dive when two divers sites around Mabul. went for a night peter symes Part of it is really dive under the The stangest thing.... divers going down with the just some old junk platform and elevatior straight into the water for a night dive upon which a lot just took the lift under Seaventures platform of marine life has down into pitch taken up residence, darkness and disappeared. but various other constructed structures the platform is spacious and has have been added to create a little park plenty of rooms for various activities. under and around the platform. The cabins are… well, cabins, and not really hotel rooms, which makes you feel Sipadan-Mabul Resort (SMART) like you are overnighting on a moored & The Mabul Water Bungalows vessel—a feeling enhanced by the fuel These resorts are really two complexes smells, one usually finds on ships and fer- under the same management. There The house band ries, wafting through the corridors. is the old complex, SMART, which sits of Dive Masters it definitely came across as a place under the shady palms on the southern on Seaventures predominantly for the younger (and side of the island overlooking a wide were surprisingly probably less affluent) crowd who prefer sandy beach, and the new and upscale good and knew to pay less for a fun and festive, uncon- Mabul Water Bungalows complex, peter symes their classic rock ventional time, rather than spend lots of which sits out on the reef opposite and Mabul Water Bungalow is a new floating dive resort wholly owned by Sipadan-Mabul Resort, ballads. It was a Sabah (SMART) skillful and nos- money on upscale décor. There was a adjacent to SWV. The two complexes talgic perform- party and lots of laughter going on the are interconnected by a winding path- ance deck. Then, as a surprise, the house rock way upon which an electrical vehicle which comes with private bathroom- ous and opulent. The resort also has an band of dive masters set up their gear (like a golf cart) offers transports for hot/cold shower and toilet, spacious elegant upscale spa. There is an inhouse to play. stroll-weary Westerners. private balcony offering panoramic photo facility, and the large and airy Admittedly, my first and spontaneous the interiors of the 14 bungalows of vistas of blue sea, colour TV with satel- restaurant for dining looks directly out thought was, “Uh oh, this is going to be The Mabul Water Bungalows—each of lite channels, and mini bar—are luxuri- over the reef ledge. As with the other

peter symes 47 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Sabah

“I don’t want to see another turtle” — Sipadan diver There are so many sea turtles now, they bump into you ti m hoch gr ebe

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The seas and reefs around Sipadan and Mabul islands are a paradise for sea turtles; Local support is enthusiastic as Sipadan Island is recognized as a contestant in the competition to become one of the seven underwater wonders of the world; Fresh water is now being brought to Sipadan by boat thus protecting its fragile aquifer from overuse peter symes

resorts of Mabul, there is an excellent a private en-suite offering free-flowing tect Sipadan—which clearly looks a bit long as they are content with playing well as the diverse cultural attractions. house reef right in front of the complex. hot and cold fresh water and a front better since our last visit—though the in the pool, or on the beach, and enjoy And don’t forget, the cities and towns of the SMART resort consists of 45 wooden patio. The SMART resort is clearly more present permit quota system has its draw- a relaxed holiday, they will be fine. The Malaysia offer great shopping opportuni- duplex chalets with each room featur- economical than The Mabul Water backs and probably could be improved. diving ranges from snorkelling to techni- ties, especially if your visit coincides with ing two oversized single beds, a couch, Bungalows—which is reflected in their Mabul is still a romantic get-away, but cal diving, though it would be a stretch their annual grand sale. Consider pack- shelves, ceiling fan and air-conditioning, respective rates. SMART is more mid- we were also left a bit sentimental, miss- to call it a technical dive destination per ing your suitcases only half full to save dle of the road. It ing the former aura of remote exclusivity se. It seems fair to say that there are a room for goodies. ■ doesn’t provide it once had. Any further addition to the couple of opportunities to quite the same level number of resorts on the island would be do technical diving through of luxury, but it is one too many and topple the island’s the SMART resort. cool and comfort- native flavor. It would become some- the main feature is defi- able. In addition, thing of a Riviera with a village added— nitely the underwater realm SMART also offers which would be an absolute shame. in the form of the amaz- technical diving with Fortunately, the locals are aware of it. ing congregations of life basic nitrox mixes around Sipadan as well as up to 40 percent, as Verdict and the seemingly inexhaustible well as advanced recommendations amounts of macro-life virtu- decompression and Sabah has got something for every-one. ally at the doorstep of your rebreather mixes up Over the years, it seems to have devel- bungalow. The resorts hold to 100 percent oxy- oped from something of a frontier where high standards, and the gen. you only went with an avid dive buddy food is good. Diving aside, to a place where you can also bring it would be a shame not to The future your family—or just have a romantic get- underline the rich variety of Essential steps have away for two. There are not really facili- topside features from the been taken to pro- ties for smaller children on Mabul, but as jungle to the mountains as peter symes 48 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Why do barracudas form schools?

A mean looking giant barracuda has a cleaner wrasse under its chin Text and photos by Peter Symes

Barracudas occur both singly and in schools around reefs, but also appear in open seas. access Adults of most barracuda to a species are more or less more solitary in their habits, while favourable hunting young and half-grown fish position and/or are in a more frequently congregate in protected position against schools. potential predators. Schooling large in fish may be determined Large schools of barracu- chunks. by sex differences in size and das are associated with morphology. It is possible that offshore seamounts, deep Although aggregations females form the core of the canyons and small islets and of barracuda were always school and males aggregate dominated by big individuals associated to areas subjected to them for obvious mating when a feeding opportunity to strong currents, its speed is advantages. appears. The reasons for such unlikely to cause aggregating aggregations are probably behaviour. Although typically While barracudas sometimes resting aggregations, pre- associated with particular sites follow snorkelers and scuba spawning aggregations, anti- and current flow, group forma- divers across the reef, there predatory advantage and tion may also be influenced exist no substantiated reports foraging advantage. In fact, by factors such as social facili- of unprovoked attacks. Known group foraging has an obvi- tation, prey availability, and incidents generally involve ous advantage since predators behavioural tradition. spearfishing or hand feed- acting together can more eas- ing, and these incidents are ily restrict the movements of a Large summer schools appear extremely rare, especially con- school of prey fish than when to be strongly size and sex seg- sidering the number of times they are alone. regated, because the large that barracudas and humans females tend to aggregate at encounter one another. ■ Barracuda prey primarily on the bottom of the school. This Source: fish, sometimes as large as they maybe due to the fact that Barreiros, Santos & Borba, Cybium 2002, 26(2): 83-88 are themselves by shearing off females, being larger, have

49 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RIGHT: Location of Sabah, Malaysia, Healthy foreign exchange Buddhist 19.2%, on global map reserves are maintained Christian 9.1%, Hindu BELOW: Location of by the central bank. A 6.3%, Confucianism, Sipadan Island on regulatory regime has Taoism, other tra- fact file map of Malaysia help Malaysia avoid ditional Chinese Malaysia exposure to riskier religions 2.6% (2000 TOP RIGHT: The trevally’s financial instruments census). Internet muscular appearence as well as the glo- users: 15.868 mil- and alert movements bal financial crisis. lion (2007) reminds one of an Although the econo- athlete in top shape mic downturn in 2009 Travel advi- sources: US cia world fact book, is expected to hurt sory Take care SCUBADOC.COM economic growth and be cautious when boating. The with the decrease in International Maritime Bureau reports History Great Britain established colo- Economy Malaysia is a middle-income of domes- demand for consumer there is a hight risk for piracy and armed nies and protectorates in the area of country. Since the 1970’s, it has transfor- tic gasoline goods worldwide. Natural robbery against ships in the territorial and current Malaysia during the late 18th med itself from a producer of raw mate- and diesel fuel resources: tin, petroleum, offshore waters in the Strait of Malacca and 19th centuries. Japan occupied rials to an emerging multi-sector eco- has forced Kuala timber, copper, iron ore, and South China Sea. Make sure your these areas from 1942 to 1945. The British- nomy. By attracting investments in high Lumpur to reduce natural gas, bauxitel. Agriculture transfers are managed by the dive ruled territories on the Malay Peninsula technology industries, medical techno- government subsidies. in Sabah: subsistence crops, rubber, resort. formed the Federation of Malaya in 1948. logy, and pharmaceuticals, former Prime In 2005, the country released timber, coconuts, rice, logging, petro- In 1957, it became independent. When Minister Abdullah, who came into office the ringgit from the US dollar which led leum production Language Bahasa Malaysia (official), the former British colonies of Singapore in 2003, attempted to move the eco- to its currency appreciating 6% per year English, Chinese (Cantonese, Mandarin, and the East Malaysian states of Sabah nomy toward a higher level in the value- against the dollar during 2006-08. It hel- Climate Tropical. Monsoons are annu- Hokkien, Hakka, Hainan, Foochow), Tamil, and Sarawak on the northern coast of added production chain. The govern- ped hold down import prices but inflatio- al in the southwest (April to October) Telugu, Malayalam, Panjabi, Thai. There Borneo joined the Federation in 1963, ment continues to help boost domestic nary pressures increased 2007. Inflation and the northeast (October to February). are several indigenous languages in East Malaysia was formed. The new nation demand and wean the economy off stood at nearly 6%, year-over-year by Natural hazards include flooding, land- Malaysia; Iban and Kadazan are most faced faced challenges in its first sev- of its dependence on exports. Despite 2008. A five-year national development slides and forest fires. widely spoken eral years including a Communist insur- these efforts, exports, especially elec- agenda was presented by the govern- gency, Singapore’s secession from the tronics, are still a significant force in the ment in April 2006 at which time Abdullah Environmental issues Air pollution Health There is a high degree of risk for Federation in 1965, Indonesian confron- economy. The country exports oil and unveiled a series of far-reaching devel- from vehicular and industrial emissions; food or waterborne diseases, such as bac- tation, and Philippine claims to Sabah. gas and has profited from higher world opment plans for several regions needing smoke/haze from Indonesian forest fires; terial diarrhea, and vectorborne diseases, However, Malaysia was successful in energy prices. However, the rising cost help in attracting business investment. water pollution from raw sewage; defor- such as dengue fever and malaria. There diversifying its economy from depend- estation. is a neglible risk of contracting the highly ence on exports of raw materials to VIETNAM pathogenic H5N1 avian influenza, which expansion in manufacturing, services, PHILIPPINES has been identified in Malaysia, although Gulf of Currency and tourism during the 22-year term of SPRATLY Ringgits (MYR) there are extremely rare cases among US THAILAND Thailand ISLANDS Sulu Prime Minister Mahathir bin Mohamad Sea Exchange rates: citizens who are in close contact with birds (1981-2003). Government: constitutional Kudat 1EUR=5.13MYR; (2009) monarchy. Capital: Kuala Lumpur Kota 1USD=3.50MYR; Baharu Kota 1GBP=5.77; Recompression Chamber Pulau Kinabalu Sandakan Geography Malaysia is located in Pinang Kuala South China Sea Gunung 1AUD= 3.02MYR; MABUL ISLAND Terengganu Pulau Labuan Kinabalu southeastern Asia. It includes the penin- George Lahad Datu 1SGD=2.46MYR Borneo Divers has an onsite recompres- sula that borders Thailand and the north- Town Taiping BRUNEI Sabah sion chamber with trained hyperbaric Ipoh ern one-third of the island of Borneo, Miri Tawau Sipadan Population technicians on call 24 hours per day. Lumut which borders Indonesia, Brunei, and KUALA Kuantan 25,715,819 (July www.borneodivers.info Strait of Pulau the South China Sea, south of Vietnam. Malacca LUMPUR Ligitan 2009 est.) Ethnic Bintulu Coastline: 4,675 km. Terrain: coastal Klang Seremban groups: Malay Links Celebes plains that rise to hills and mountains. Port Dickson 50.4%, Chinese Tourism Malaysia Sibu Sarawak Lowest point: Indian Ocean 0 m. Highest Melaka Johor Kuching 23.7%, indigenous tourismmalaysiausa.com BORNEO Sea point: Gunung Kinabalu 4,100 m. Note: Bahru 11%, Indian 7.1%, Sabah Tourism Malaysia lies in a strategic location along SINGAPORE others 7.8% (2004 www.sabahtourism.com the Strait of Malacca and the southern est.). Religions: Borneo Divers INDONESIA Equator INDONESIA end of the South China Sea. Muslim 60.4%, www.borneodivers.info ■

50 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Young divers in the Kids Scuba dive camp on Tioman Island, Malaysia, enjoy the underwater world with a few of the cartoon characters from Scuba Rangers/ SSI such as (clockwise) Spinner, Sargent Major, Puffer, Captain Kelp and Hammerhead Kids Love to Dive Reaching out to a new generation of divers Edited by Gunild Symes Photos courtesy of Syed Abd Rahman and Kids Scuba

One of the largest chil- dren’s diving clubs on Earth is in Malaysia, where the diving is world-class. X-RAY MAG talked with Syed Abd Rahman, director of Kids Scuba—the big- gest Scuba Rangers pro- gram in the world—to find out the key to their success and how it is influencing the popularity of diving in Malaysia. X-RAY MAG: What is Scuba Rangers? What is Kids Scuba? Where are you located?

SAR: Scuba Rangers is a special scuba diving club for kids ages 8-12. Kids Scuba Malaysia start- ed in 2004. We are a member of Scuba Schools International (SSI) and a Scuba Rangers Award Winning Instructor Training Facility. We operate at the Maybank sports center swim- ming pool in Bangi, just 30 min- utes drive from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

X-RAY MAG: Tell us about yourself, your background Asia. I am a very keen PADI Seal Team diver in Malaysia. Malaysia in 2002, with the Scuba that Malaysia has to offer. I then Instructor Trainer for Malaysia and and why you started Kids Scuba. diver and committed to the Initially, when she followed me on Discovery program conducted in took my Scuba Rangers Instructor was awarded the Leading Scuba sport. I love teaching kids in the my diving trip abroad, we only the pool. The goal was to let other Training course back in 2004 in Rangers Club in South East Asia. SAR: I’ve been diving about 20 sport of Scuba Diving. In fact, my saw other kids diving. After her kids in Malaysia share the sport Singapore. In 2006, I was upgrad- There was no looking back for me years now in places throughout daughter became the youngest certification, I started Kids Scuba and enjoy the underwater world ed to the level of Scuba Rangers after that! (Smile)

51 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Syed Abd Rahman (in blue disney “nemo” third from right) celebrates bath squirter with the kids, parents and toy staff of the 2009 Kids Scuba Kids Scuba feature Camp on Tioman Island

enjoying with them the email me, not forget- underwater world. The other ting to remind me over part is seeing the kids grow and over about what with the program, becoming to do and where to go responsible divers with good next. Whew! buoyancy and being good dive buddies who appreciate the marine X-RAY MAG: What are the life and conservation of the marine eco- biggest surprises, insights, or system. loves the kids have in diving the underwater world? X-RAY MAG: What do kids say to you X-RAY MAG: Kids Scuba is the largest forward to our Kids Scuba X-RAY MAG: One of the about their experience with Kids Scuba? SAR: The kids love the so-called Nemo organization for kids of its kind in the Camps organized three times upcoming events of Kids Scuba diving world. Why is it so popular and a year at selected marine parks and is a dive camp at Sipadan what are you doing that’s making it islands of Malaysia. The camps fur- and Mabul islands. Tell us such a success? What do the Scuba ther facilitate their scuba education about it and what kids Rangers mean to Malaysia and diving in and underwater skills, while they can expect to do, see, Malaysia? are able to see the reknowned learn when they are Clownfish “Nemo” from the there. SAR: The Scuba Rangers program is flex- Disney animation, Finding ible in that it allows the Instructor to be Nemo, in real life. Scuba Rangers SAR: Whenever we con- creative with the speciality courses but In Malaysia have made great leaps duct the Kids Scuba Camp, within the training standards. An example and bounds since we started in 2004, we always emphasize a total is the underwater painting ranger speci- gaining International awards and rec- family-oriented program, where ality program in Malaysia. After teach- ognition. the kids will have a chance to ing the kids through the five sessions of scuba dive at the shallow the Rangers level, starting with the Red, X-RAY MAG: Tell us what role SSI reefs up to five meters White, Blue, Silver and finally the Demo has in the Scuba Rangers’ edu- with a ratio of two rang- Ranger, the young rangers can look cation. ers per Instructor or Dive Leader. The dive is always the first priority! Without SAR: Scuba Rangers, a kids fail, the Rangers will be asking me every scuba activity club, was minute once we reach the island— started in 1999 by Paul Oberle (laughs)—followed by the education on of Louisiana, United States. the marine ecosystem and coral reefs. He pioneered child-specific While we take the Scuba Rangers kids to scuba training techniques go diving, moms and dads, brothers and and educational philosophies. sisters, can have a good time on their Affiliated with Scuba Schools own and dive at their own leisure. International (SSI) (www. divessi.com), Rangers Clubs X-RAY MAG: What is the best part of SAR: They love it, and they make clownfish toys that we put in the pool are found worldwide. Though your job with Kids Scuba? sure they checkmate me first during their weekly training session. We the Scuba Ranger classes before I can even plan for also include toys such as underwater cater for kids aged 8-12, par- SAR: For me, the best part the next event. My Scuba torpedos, underwater frisbees, and hula ents and teenagers are also of teaching the Scuba Rangers are my bosses; they hoops, which are placed under water welcome, as we encourage Rangers course is educating can really take the time out during the rangers training program. a family-oriented water sports the kids the Right Scuba Skills of me. They call me, text me on One of the most awaited speciality pro- program. and Scuba Discipline, while their mobile phones, and grams we conduct is the Night Rangers

New Rangers proudly display their awards and certificates Puffer (left) Children taking the Kids Scuba Pledge (above) 52 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Scuba Rangers of the Kids Scuba booth Syed Abd Rahman, Director, Scuba Educator at the Malaysia SSI - Scuba Rangers Instructor Trainer #21643 International Dive SSI - Dive Control Specialist Instructor #21643 Kids Scuba feature Expo (MIDE) 2009 in ITDA Sports Diving Instructor Trainer # 298868 Kuala Lumpur IHMP Dive Medic Instructor #298866

KIDS SCUBA “Underwater Adventure For Kids”­ SSI Award Winning Instructor SAR: The Scuba Rangers have a very im- Training Facility; The Leading Scuba Rangers Club in Asia & The Largest in the portant pledge that says: “As a Scuba World 2007; Tel: 6019-3176705 (Syed) or 6019-3826705 (Nadia) Dive Center: Ranger, and a member of the diving com- 603-51918005; Email: [email protected] Website: www.kidsscuba.com munity, I pledge to have fun, continue my diving education, protect the aquatic envi- ronment, dive responsibly, and participate parts of the region. RECOGNITION & AWARDS in my community, my family, and my future We have families in a positive way. Way to go, Scuba Rang- from Singapore, Asia Dive Expo (ADEX) Singapore ers!” All rangers have to recite the pledge Hong Kong, United King- April 2006: “Rising Star Award every time as a group before the start of dom, Australia, United – South East Asia ” from SSI the class. States and even South International for achievements in Scuba Rangers is the only Africa joining us certifying the most numbers of SSI dive course in the world during our Scuba Rangers in Asia and organ- peter symes with a pledge, and it’s The Scuba Rangers past and izing the first Kids Scuba Camp in a very healthy pledge upcoming Kids South East Asia in March 2005 Speciality, which we only conduct once ba Camp dates and venues. As the camp covering the areas of have a good and healthy Scuba Camps. a year with exclusivity. The rangers get to is open exclusively to the Scuba Rangers fun, education, aquat- impact on the sport in Malaysian International Dive dive at night in the pool with full dive gear and Families. The Kids Scuba Camp in ic environment, respon- X-RAY MAG: Exhibition (MIDE) Kuala Lumpur coupled with Dive Torch and Light Sticks. Mabul/ Sipadan has sibility, community, fam- Malaysia. What is the in July 2007: “The Best Dealer We even decorate the hula hoops under- been full since July ily and the future. Maybe impact of Scuba Rangers on Award 2007 – Scuba Rangers water with light sticks! And most of the 2009, with 97 pax in the other agencies should follow suit as diving as a sport in Malaysia? Do you get Certifications” mom and dad divers get to dive along total with 61 divers. well. Just kidding! a lot of support from area dive businesses as well. It’s really a valuable experience, and resorts? If so, how do they help? What Asia Dive Expo (ADEX) Bangkok as the kids will go back smiling about X-RAY MAG: Does it cost X-RAY MAG: Where do the participants more do you need from interested dive April 2008: “Single Largest Scuba their achievement and will tell eve- a lot of money? What about come from? businesses who want to get involved? Rangers Program in the World” ryone in their path—I mean equipment? Is it expensive? from Mr. Ed Christini, Director everyone— about their div- And travel? How expensive is SAR: The participants come from various SAR: The Scuba Rangers have a good and of International Division, SSI ing experience. After edu- it? International from Colorado USA cating them in the pool, the young Rangers look so SAR: The Scuba Rangers course Malaysia International Dive Expo much foward to the Scuba Camps in Malaysia is about RM850.00 = (MIDE) Kuala Lumpur, July 2008: where they can see the lovely USD250 per pax for five sessions. All “Sports Diving Magazine - Australia Clownfish “Nemo” for real, sea equipment is provided during the course Award” for the success of Malaysia turtles, the Sargent Major fish and with add-ins such as breakfast, hot and SSI Kids Scuba and Scuba Rangers appreciate the real marine life, but cold refreshments, and lunch for program in Malaysia to a limit of five meters in a confined all students with moms and dads water environment. as well. We make sure the kids do Malaysia International Dive Expo not go back hungry! They can re- (MIDE) Kuala Lumpur, July 2009: X-RAY MAG: How can kids ally eat after a pool session. An average Three awards, namely, “Best and parents get involved? How Kids Scuba camp costs about RM1000.00 = Scuba Rangers Club”, “Best Scuba do they get signed up for the next camp at USD350.00 per pax including accomoda- Rangers Certification” and “Best Sipadan-Mabul? tion, diving and land transfers. The rates are Scuba Rangers Instructor Award” applicable to the western Malaysia islands, for the success of Malaysia SSI SAR: We will inform the Scuba Rangers well but are not applicable to the islands off Scuba Rangers program in South in advanced about our camps, and we will Sabah, as they offer different rates. East Asia published it on our website for the yearly X-RAY MAG: What is the most important Scuba Camp calendar. We also have a aspect, insight, inspiration you and partici- bulletin board at the pool and inform the pants get from Scuba Rangers? Syed Abd Rahman (left of banner) Rangers and moms and dads on the Scu- with children participating in the Kids Scuba Camp on Tioman Island 53 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Scuba Rangers drawing what they see, creating Dive T-Shirts for Kids feature art under the waves Kids Scuba trainer and consultant. I can hundreds of the “little and cute Scuba be reached at kidsscuba@ Rangers” we have trained grow and yahoo.com or my office in become good and responsible teen- Subang Jaya, Malaysia at tel. age scuba divers with good values, +603-51918005 or appreciating marine life mobile at +6019- For me, the hun- and the ecosystem. 3176705. Our for me, the hundreds website is www. dreds of Scuba Rangers of Scuba Rangers we kidsscuba.com. we have trained are the have trained are the next, future generation next, future generation X-RAY MAG: of divers. It is up to us What else of divers. It is up to us to to educate them and would you like educate them and give give them the right our readers to values to appreciate know? them the right values to ocean life and the appreciate ocean life and marine ecosystem. If SAR: Kids Scuba we don’t do it now, we in Malaysia the marine ecosystem. might not know what’s organizes Main — Syed Abd Rahman going to happen 15 to Kids Scuba 20 years from now to Lots of fun designs on various colors and organic styles camps for Scuba the lovely marine parks of in kids & toddler sizes. Bulk discounts & international Rangers and their families three the world... Let’s all do our bit for the shipping. Plus, a percent of all sales goes to ocean times per year (on Malaysian environment of the ocean starting with conservation. Find them at The X-RAY MAG Store! school holidays) to various the young ones. ■ www.cafepress.com/xraymag lovely marine parks and islands healthy impact on the sport in Malay- Rangers program in Malaysia. in Malaysia, such as Tioman sia. It has grown with a strong impact Island, Redang Island, Lang Tengah on sports tourism to promote the is- X-RAY MAG: Any future plans for Kids Island, Langkawi Island and the lovely lands in Malaysia as a dive destination Scuba Malaysia? islands of Sabah. that caters to families as well. During the camps, the Rangers can Yes, we do have good and SAR: We plan to train more Scuba gain a deeper appreciation for marine strong support from the Malaysian Rangers Instructors in Malaysia and in life with a series of interactive marine goverment, Tourism Malaysia, state Asia and to expand the program to education classes conducted every goverment as well as the other regions as well, such as India, night including video presentations, selected dive resorts China and the Middle East. This in turn quizzes and lots of prizes to win. and instructors of will educate more Scuba Rangers to the Kids Scuba camp also encour- all levels and agen- be responsible divers with good and ages family bonding among fam- cies in Malaysia. The knowledgable underwater skills. ily members during the program, as Scuba Rangers in Ma- moms and dads get to dive with the Jr. laysia gets very strong X-RAY MAG: What would you tell other Open Water kids and the kiddie Scuba support from the directors who want to start a similar Rangers to enjoy the sport, meet new local media, TV sta- program in their locations? Will you families, appreciate the lovely marine tions, newspapers and help them as a consultant? If so, how? life of Malaysia while having loads of magazines, which cover And how can they reach you? fun with other families. our programs regularly. They (the media) SAR: I would very much like to assist in X-RAY MAG: Final throughts? actually have a any way possible if any course direc- very strong im- tors, instructors, or resorts want to start SAR: During all the Kids Scuba Camps pact on the a Scuba Rangers Program anywhere. organized and successfully conducted Scuba Yes, I will assist and help them as a since 2004, I personally have seen

Scuba Rangers at MIDE 2009 54 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED media Gorontalo Hidden Books & DVDs Paradise Edited by Catherine GS Lim Review by Simon Kong. A fantastic coffee table point & click book by Gorontalo dive on bold links pioneer Rantje Allen, Gorontalo Hidden Paradise says it all. Gorontalo is located in north The Underwater Sulawesi and is Fireworks recently becom- Photographer The idyllic lives of ing the hottest dive scuba divers Terry destination in Indonesia. Many have found Martin Edge’s Hunter and Joe it features superb photographs third edition of this title to be a Manetta are disrupt- by world renowned underwater pho- very comprehensive volume ed when they agree tographers William Tan, Takako Uno and on underwater photography. to help foil a possible Stephen Wong (their names alone are justification Although intended for the terrorist attack during to buy this book). experienced photographer, Queen Elizaberh’s Rantje writes with an easy style that takes you beginners would have little 4th of July visit to along with the photographers in their limited shoot- trouble following and incorpo- New York. Also ing time to photograph Gorontalo’s unique marine rating the many techniques sucked into the plot life. discussed into their shoot- is Notchu the dolphin, who is whisked from the pris- Special mention must be made for William’s ing. This book begins with a tine waters of the Caribbean to the murky waters of pictures as they stand out the most. No surprise quick refresher on the basics the Hudson Bay. considering he spent up to five hours a day in the of traditional photography, As with the previous two books in the series, water posing as a piece of rock and vowing never like shutter speed, f-stops, Fireworks is a page-turner. The characters are to repeat it again. His pictures speak for them- depth of field, etc. The next immediately likeable, making the reading of this selves, and this can be seen in a beautiful four part moves on to digital novel a pleasureable experience. However, com- page fold out featuring blue ring octopuses fight- photography, so terms like pared to the main characters, depictions of the ing. megapixels, file types, memeory cards are terrorists’ motivations could have been more sub- in trying to cross reference the species featured carefully explained. Later chapters discuss the ins and stantial. Nevertheless, the descriptions in the book I find that my library of marine life reference books outs of using the SLR and compact cameras underwa- are meticulous and detailed, though not tedious to are woefully outdated, even though they were ter, as well as composition, lighting, and taking close-up/ read. recently published. Credit goes to the photogra- macro and wide angle shots. Needless to say, Edge’s throughout the novel, the writer’s skilful writing phers and writer for coming out with an up-to-date renowned ‘think and consider’ system of taking photos brings the reader along for the ride as he drops great piece of work that invites you to discover this is also covered. The beautiful photos in the third edition in on the different situations faced by the various hidden paradise called Gorontalo. both inspire and awe, while Edge’s easy-to-follow direc- characters, giving us a glimpse into their world and tions provide readers with the knowledge to aspire to experiences. Don’t forget to pack this book along By Rantje Allen such heights. Consider this book to be one of those must- with your dive gear on your next dive trip! Photographs by William Tan, haves to slip into your camera bag on your next dive trip. Takako Uno and Stephen Wong A fourth edition is due to be published by Focal Press this By Paul J Mila Published by Snow Publishing November, and is slated to be heavily revised and ex- Published by AuthorHouse ISBN: 981-05-6129-6 panded, so watch out for it! ISBN-13: 978-1438900698 290 X 250mm hardcover 160 pages in full colour By Martin Edge First published in 2006 480pp. 7.44 x 9.69 inches 4th edition in Nov 2009 ISBN 9780240521640

55 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED tech talk TimeWhat’s bubbling? to dive dry? lent. There is also different animal Define your needs ible, and more durable. Modern dry suits life in the cooler part of the year. Most diving in temperate and cold water are high tech, too. Superior thermal insulation is one is now done in a dry suit, simply because As most are probably well aware, dry of the main advantages of div- it’s warmer. But actually, the current suits come in two basic flavours, which ing dry, but you don’t have to thinking is that any type of diving that we can call membrane and neoprene, live in colder climes to appre- increases thermal loss, thereby decreas- with a number of intermediary forms in ciate this property. Even in ing comfort and safety, may be better between. the tropics, the water can be done in a dry suit. This includes dives that cool at depth, which is why call for little movement such as photog- Membrane suits dry suits are also favoured by raphy, deep diving, long dives in warm A membrane suit is basically just a thin Text by Peter Symes dive guides and instructors in water (especially if they involve long watertight shell under which a separate and Roz Lunn, with regards to warmth, and if you stops) and repetitive diving, particularly if layer, or undergarment, is worn to pro- additional quotes engage in any kind of technical you tend to chill down easily. vide thermal insulation. Consequently, from our readers diving, they are a must. A more thermal insulation aside, proper fit and the suits themselves can be quite light- evenly distributed buoyancy is freedom of movement are also impor- weight, and therefore, easier to travel Autumn is here—at least another property of drysuits that tant properties to consider. Nothing is with, as they can be rolled up into a for those of us who reside in the temperate zones the diver soon comes to appre- more annoying than a suit that doesn’t small bundle. ciate. fit, hinders your movement, or worse still, Most membrane suits are made of the northern hemisphere. As the leaves of fall put on their col- leaks. from a thin, pliable material ourful display, we go about stowing away our sum- Getting one While the basic concept and called tri-laminate consist- mer garments and getting out the winter clothes. In For most divers, a drysuit is the single operation of a dry suit has remained ing of three sand- regards to what you wear underwater, that means largest investment in diving equipment unchanged over the years, there have wiched layers: they will ever make. So, you better make been vast improvements in materials and getting out the dry suits. sure that you make the right purchase designs, making them and don’t rush into anything! Chances warmer, more My late grandmother always professed are that you will have your suit for many flex- that there were no such thing as bad good years. weather, only bad clothing, and made When it comes to a wish list, us wear our oilskins before she shoved us where do you start? kids out to play in the rain or snow, so she Checking out could have a bit of peace and quiet. She was right y’know. Not about the bit of quiet, but about the importance of wearing the right garments. i’ve always been com- fortable in the water, and happy as a puppy even under horrible weather conditions, sim- ply because I dressed properly the and warmly enough. On a frigid options and ask- day, that could mean putting on a ing around on the internet will couple of extra socks, or wearing long soon get you bombarded with (some- In a membrane suit, the diver underwear. times conflicting) advice from friends, will have to wear an undergarment for Diving in winter is underappreciated, forums, websites and instructors. So, let’s thermal protection. The membrane just I find. The coolness of the water means start at the beginning. keeps the water out. This suit is fitted with less algae, and the viz is often excel- a cuff for a dry glove, which just snaps on

56 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED New materials. Drysuits are “Drysuits aren’t just about thermal protection under- going hi-tech, too. What you see here may be the water. They keep you much warmer between new thermal protection dives, particularly on boats, which makes it layers in future drysuits much more likely that you will do more than one dive per day.” • One Suit, Any Environment nylon as the inner lining, butyl rubber may provide a more • Unmatched as the watertight membrane in the affordable complete Mobility! middle, and Cordura as the protec- solution, but may also • Unbelievably tive outer layer. This superbly flexible come with a number of Streamlined! material is extensively used in drysuits, drawbacks. • Interchangeable Outer Skin! because it is quite resistant to abrasions, one, is the loss of insu- punctures and tears. It is also light, very lation—and buoyancy—as flexible, requires little maintenance and the suit material compresses is easy to patch and repair. Some suits with depth, something every also make good use of Kevlar—which is wetsuit diver is quite familiar practically impenetrable—either just for with. The loss of insulation can patches on particularly exposed areas, be offset by wearing some sort such as the knees, or the whole suit can of undergarment, but you still be covered by it. have the issue of marked buoy- typically, technical divers will go for ancy changes. membrane suits, because they offer bet- ter freedom of movements, which, for Crushed and compressed Clearing up the confusion example, is essential when you want to Another option is going with more expen- reach your gas valves behind your neck. sive materials such as compressed or Crushed and compressed? The term But as the suit itself offers the diver no crushed neoprene. The main idea of compressed is often used in a con- thermal protection, a separate undergar- using these materials is that they don’t fusing manner. Neoprene is a family ment has to be worn. The diver has, of undergo the same degree of compres- of synthetic rubbers with a foamy tex- course, the option of varying their ther- sion with depth, and as such, maintain ture in which airspaces are filled with mal protection according to the ambient the same level of insulation and buoy- nitrogen. The material is produced water temperature at depth. The com- ancy regardless of depth. In turn, that in big sheets of different thicknesses, bined purchase of a membrane suit means that the diver will still need some which undergo some compression and a top-of-the-line undergarment extra layer of garment underneath for process during their manufacturing. will often be more expensive than thermal protection, though much less So, in essence, all diving neoprene buying a neoprene suit. than with a shell suit. is compressed. What is often meant in many regards, suits of compressed or by compressed is that a standard Neoprene suits crushed neoprene can be regarded as 7mm neoprene has been further A traditional neoprene dry suit basically hybrids, which combine the best of neo- compressed to say 4mm, but often has just one main layer, which provides prene and membrane suits. the 4mm variant is just made of a both thermal insulation and a watertight crushed neoprene has the flexibility of thinner material. Crushed neoprene barrier. In its simplest form, it is essentially a tri-laminate, the strength of neoprene, has undergone heating and pres- an upgraded wetsuit, equipped with and the material stretches slightly. This sure to produce a neoprene that is various seals and a watertight zipper to means that the suit can be cut for a both tougher and stretchier. Under keep water from entering, plus a cou- snugger fit without impairing the diver’s a microscope, you will find the ple of valves. This one-layer concept movement. The diver benefits from no compressed material still has round inherent buoyancy changes whatsoever. bubbles, while the crushed mate- Neoprene drysuit. Aside from an inner lining, the suit This suit behaves exactly the same at 100 rial cells are flat. Microcell neoprene consists of one layer, which provides both the water metres, as it does on the surface. Not is another material with 20 percent barrier and thermal insulation. On this particular unsurprisingly, these types of suits belong smaller bubbles than conventional model, which comes from the lower price range, the with those at the top of the range, both neoprene. ■ zipper is not protected by a flap or cover (compare in terms of quality and price. to the suits pictured on the next page) which means www.whitesdiving.com increased wear and tear

57 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Design Try it on! unless the diver is a contortionist, the zip- The importance of finding a suit that Some manufactures offer made-to-fit, per is out of reach, so closing and open- both fits correctly and allows for plenty or bespoke, dry suits at a nominal extra ing the suit will require the assistance of a of freedom of movement cannot be charge. So, if any of their standard stock buddy. emphasized enough. How flexible the sizes do not fit you well, it will often be in our recent survey, most divers stated suit is depends not only on which fabrics worth the extra expense to get it custom that they preferred to be able to take are used but also on how the material is fit. In particular, you need to check if you their suit on and off without assistance. cut and put together, just like other gar- can move your arms freely, and that you The two suits depicted on this page show ments. Fortunately, we have seen much can reach the valves. two other zipper configurations: improvement in how suits are designed. Does the suit allow you to stretch an one that goes diagonally across It would be nice Biased cut is now being adopted arm without pulling on a sleeve and tug- the shoulders (center), and by the pro-active manufacturers. ging on a wrist seal so it will let in water? one that goes across the chest if the industry Traditionally, fabrics were cut along the Can you turn your head freely? And does (right). These configurations realized that warp or weft. Now the manufacturers it allow you to squat? are usually a bit pricier, but is short females have discovered that if they cut the Often the stan-dard across- often worth it. cloth on the diagonal to the warp and the-shoulder configuration of the way the suit on the right also want rea- weft, (known as the bias), the fabric the drysuit zipper will make is designed also provides for sonably priced has a lot more natural stretch. it more difficult to reach what is called a telescopic tri-laminate suits that do not uti- behind your head. torso, which gives the diver drysuits that fit lize the bias cut have less inherent more mobilty lengthwise. stretch, so they tend to be cut on Zipper con- Other, but now mainly obso- the generous side to allow the figuration lete, ways of placing the zipper includes diver a full range of movement. The standard running it between the legs and around They also are more baggy to arrangement the head. allow for the undersuit, (provid- is placing the Since the zippers are exposed to wear ing the thermal protection). This zipper across and tear they will ultimately wear out can result in the diver suffering the shoul- and have to be replaced. The zippers from drag, as they move through ders, as it are not cheap, which is why, on some the water. Some membrane suits is shown are also designed with telescoping on the first models, the zipper torsos, which can make a huge differ- page of sits protected under a ence when it comes to freedom of this arti- flap or outer layer. movement. cle. Here, it is less Seals Fit exposed Latex or neoprene is the main choice Neoprene suits have a snugger to wear though silicon has just been introduced fit, because they are cut differ- and tear, as third alternative—good news for those ently, as there is not such a need but who have a latex allergy. Latex has a to wear so many thermal layers to snugger fit, but doesn’t insulate like neo- keep the diver warm. Whilst the prene, so the diver needs other thermal diver benefits from a sleeker fit, Order it to protection at least around the neck. they can lose out in other ways. Latex also tears easily—a careless diver The snug fit makes it harder to fit, don´t with a sharp finger nail can poke right don and reduces flexibility, impair- try to save a through the material. Neoprene seals are ing the diver’s movements. If you few quid. warmer, but fit less tightly, are thinking about moving into which may be an issue for technical diving, this is not a suit some. A neoprene seal is to Beware: for you. Gas shut downs can be Some drysuits be folded back and tucked a nightmare, or worse, impossi- come with fixed in, like an inverted turn-up, in Sunscreens ble. Unfortunately, as neoprene boots. Others, like order to seal properly. and oils ages, it becomes less flexible, the one shown here, Few items are as useless can deteri- worsening this problem. Another come with separate as a drysuit with a torn seal. outer boots, often property, which is also lost as Often, it can only be fixed orate latex referred to as the fabric ages, is insulation. Rock boots by a trip back to the repair seals

58 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED It may well be that the dry suit fits you makes it more manufacturers properly, but the feet don’t. This need comfortable to will give you a not be a problem. Boots can easily wear the drysuit choice of boot, be changed by a suit workshop. Some between dives i.e. and again, drysuits come with seperate boots. This new Fusion boot from Whites allows users while underway to wear your to remove their boots if needed, but is a dive site. thickest ther- designed to stay on the suit permanently. mal protection The new boot acts like an attached boot, Boots to help get it is super streamlined, and has a super The vast majority of suits have built-in right. It’s not low profile for those concerned SI-Tech’s Glove Lock boots, though it is possible to opt for really worth about fitting traditional dry glove system good ankle seals instead. Some of the going for bulky drysuit boots with boots into shop for a replace- forms a watertight seal I cut my thin soles. their ment, but there are also options between the glove and Although existing fins around that enable divers to change sleeve. Some of the fixed hood they are light, seals themselves—something that could designs work using fric- off and you do get save a weekend. Some user-replacable tion where the diver just squeezes use a to experi- neck seals are shown on page 67. the glove onto some sealing o-rings, ence the while others have twisting rings that wet “ooh-aarrhh- lock and/or unlock the glove. hood. I ouch” factor in its full glory, Hotfoot drysuit socks from Dry gloves as you trog over rocky shores and Fourth Element are made up of If you are diving in cold water, Hoods did not stones. Neoprene lined boots a high density fleece combined there is no way around dry Using loose hoods seems be gain- like the are warm and snug, so this can with water resistant outer fabric. gloves. A number of brands have ing popularity, and not without mean you have to go up a size, Designed to fit the feet, these socks will stay marketed various designs over reason, as one can essen- restric- but all in all. these are a popular on when the years, but they are all vari- tially find the hood that tion of choice. For those of you who teach taking ations of the same basic theme suits one best. Also a the fixed on a commercial basis, heavy duty off your in which a two-part seperate hood boots, especially drysuit locking sys- hood. Never use a fixed heavy duty boots tem with a heel, are hood on a dry suit worth consider- for sports diving. Use ing. Commercial it only if you hate work- divers are catered for with heavy duty ing. It can hurt your steel boots complete muscles in the neck. with steel soles and toecaps. And then you have DUI. They have always done things dif- ferently, and until recently, I really hated their boots because they were effectively socks with a sole glued to the bottom. Horribly flappy things, and it was this one Valves feature that really put me off buying one Most suits are already fitted with valves, of their suits. Happily, this all changed so most of the time, you don’t really with the advent of the Rock Boot. have an option of choosing. Inflators These days the diver still has and suit dump valves are dominated a “sock” on the end of their by two manufacturers: SI-Tech and suit, but they now don a Apeks, which over the years have Standard placement of the pair of rugged boots to constantly strived to design more valves on a drysuit valves. dive in. A boon for divers streamlined products with low pro- Make sure that you can eas- who walk and climb to file. ily reach and operate both sites. A good inflator valve should be of them. This suit comes with- able to swivel in full circle, so you out a fixed hood

59 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED can route your inflator house any WHO SAID DRYSUIT DIVING WASN’T HOT? way you want. Your dumps and inflators should be of the same brand, as the two products have been designed and tested to work together. the inflate button on my suit can be difficult to find within the large inflator assembly. Having a raised, or otherwise obvious, inflator button would be nice, especially because thick gloves are used, and hands are some- times too numb to feel the button accurately. When it comes to dumps, there are two main types—shoulder dumps and cuff dumps—though Drysuit gaitors from Halcyon attaches with velcro the latter seems to be going out of fashion. A cuff dump is your feet down, if you have a A P-valve is a device for tech- automatic and idiot proof, and tendency to have floaty legs. If nical divers allowing the diver to extreme performance undersuit approximately the size of a small you don’t like finning with added urinate into the water at depth marmalade lid. A cuff dump is weight around your ankles, gai- by the means of a condom-like normally located on the left hand ters, which wrap around your attachment and hose that passes arm, above the wrist seal. To vent shins, may be the solution for you. through the suit. air, the diver just raises their left hand. This can cause problems P-valves and zippers Pockets with involuntarily dumping of air Sorry, gals, these inventions just Pockets are invaluable for stash- when teaching, photographing, cater to men’s needs. A p-zipper, ing all sorts of things such as a deploying a surface marker buoy, like the one depicted below, spare mask, D-SMB (Delayed or hanging onto a shot line. allow the gent with an urgent Surface Marker Buoy), a reel, a A cuff dump also means that need to perform his business slate, and a backup torch. you might not be able to have without having to get out of his placing cargo pockets on the used by: a computer on that wrist, as it suit. These extras are a bit on the front thigh seems a good idea, will impair air flow. That said, this pricey side and constitute an but positioning them on the side is is a good option for new divers, added point of failure, so why not often a better option. There is less British Antarctic Survey Dive Team because it is so simple to use. just make it a habit to go to the in-water drag, as the pockets are NYPD Divers i prefer a shoulder dump. It’s men’s room in a timely fashion? in the slipstream of your shoulders, Canadian Coastguard adjustable. By turning the dump whilst giving easy access to the TV’s Deep Sea Detectives valve, you can control the contents. BBC Cameramen for ice diving degree by which the air is vented this is something you need to UK Police Divers off. This means that I can screw keep in mind should you start Danish Navy it down to stop gas escaping, if I using side-mounted stage cylin- Netherlands Fire Rescue Service have a very long decompression ders. When you are diving with French Marines stop. It can be set to automatic, a stage, accessing a front cargo Most UK drysuit divers so as you rise, the air inside the pocket for your D-SMB is a bit suit expands and thus escapes tricky. through the dump. Alternatively, front-mounted cargo pockets you can hold the dump down to can also get in the way when allow more air to escape. you are rib diving, as they tend to catch when climbing back into Gaiters or ankle weights the boat. Ankle weights are en easy way When you stand with your arms to distribute weight more evenly A convenience zipper is mostly for by your sides, the bottom of the along your body and help keep users who wear their suit all day long, pocket should be placed in line www.fourthelement.com such as professionals 60 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED with the ends of your fin- gers, whilst being suffi- Drysuit zippers must be ciently above lubricated prior to every dive with the knee, so that bee’s or paraffin wax. Only the the pocket doesn’t outside of the zipper should be get in the way of your lubricated, and it’s best to finning. do it with the zipper closed Looking As for fastening your pocket, one after your suit camp advocates that cargo pockets should be zipped up, so that items don’t fall out. Others say that Velcro is best Drysuit zippers must be lubricated for easy access, arguing that zips may prior to every dive with bee’s or jam when you least want them to. Drain Drysuits paraffin wax. Only the outside of holes are a must, and it’s a sensible idea require the zipper should be lubricated, to have a method of attaching things more main- and it’s best to do it with the zipper to prevent everything from falling out. tenance than wet- closed. Be sure to wipe off any bits Bungee is a popular choice. It allows suits. Be sure to rinse your suit with of wax that fall off the zipper. Never you to pull out the entire contents of fresh, clean water after every dive. use silicone spray on any part of your pocket, grab what you want, and inspect the seals, valves and zip- your drysuit. It will work its way into replace the remainder. pers for damage, and get repairs the base suit material, making it dif- A bungee loop is better than a clip, as done on any item that is not oper- ficult to make good repairs in the you can always cut a piece of bungee ating properly. If the inside of the future. Different manufacturers rec- should it get tangled. suit is damp, or wet, it must be ommend different methods for stor- rinsed, too. Check for moisture age. Some say to roll the drysuit up Brace yourself in the bottom of the boots. After and leave the zipper open, while If your suit does not come with brac- rinsing the suit, hang it over a others recommend closing the zip- es, or suspenders, go and get clothesline (out of the sun) per. However, all manufacturers yourself a ‘Fit your own braces’ to dry. Don’t use a hanger, agree drysuits should be stored in Aqua Pack. Braces also allow as this places stress on the a sealed bag in a cool, dry place, you to wear your suit partially suit. Turn the suit inside out away from sources of ozone, such donned without you having carefully. Never put your as electric motors or hot water to clutch great armfuls of suit away for storage heaters. Follow these simple drysuit suit. If you are not careful, unless it is completely diving tips and you’ll soon be diving you can damage your zip dry inside, or you’ll end like a pro. There’s no substitute for a should you wear your suit up with mold or mildew. drysuit when the water turns chilly! ■ half donned. With a front donning donned between dives, then take diagonal entry suit, it is time to pull the arms through the better for the suit if braces to take the weight of the suit, you wear it either or knot the arms around your waist. fully on, or take it If you let the full weight of the suit off. If you wish hang down on the braces, to wear it half over time, the zip can suffer unnecessary strain because it is bouncing on the braces, and it will bend and flex. A front-donning suit zip can last longer than a back entry zip provided you don’t go around with the suit open, folded back, and hanging on the braces. ■

61 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Some of the Italian Gravity Zeros flagship model is the TLS Gravity Zero Ranger Limited edition produced in flex- ible and soft 350 G/MQ Trilaminate fabric, which is highly resistant to abrasion. Designed with a The latest & hottest telescopic torso with an adjustable waist, the suit pro- Some two months prior to going to press, we wrote all known manufactors of drysuits asking vides a great degree of freedom of movement. them to supply us with information and images on the latest models. Hollis Biodry Neck and wrist latex seals according to military grade specifications while separate hood is Constructed with patented WearForce material, optional. The front zipper configuration makes which is a lightweight non-woven nylon material the suit easy to put on and off. The inside is laminated to a heavy-duty, stretchable poly- covered with a smooth fabric and mount- urethane, the BioDry BX200 Drysuit is said to be ed with elastic braces. The like no other suit on the market. Strength and boot is made of 2,5 mm stretch with a complete range of motion CNX neoprene. allows for a more streamlined fit. Say Gravityzero.it goodbye to bunching and rigid Whites’ material. Coming soon at Hollisgear.com Fusion Poseidon’s The popular Whites Evolution Fusion has won over countless divers Fresh out of the over for the last oven, the image couple of years. is less than 24 One of the popu- hours old as lar benefits of the we closed this Fusion is the remov- edition. The able, replaceable Evolution is the skin. Canadian man- Swedish drysuit ufacturer Whites has veteran’s first suit now launched four with latex. The flex- new Fusion skins in addi- ible and durable tion to the lycra sport 3mm compressed skin, limited edition skin, neoprene, tightly and the tech skin with designed around grey graphics. The flag- your body, will still ship tech skin will now be be tight and prevent available in black with air movement and expand red, yellow, navy, and when you add more under- pink graphics. Users can wear, while remaning soft now have a different and flexible enough not to skin for different dives; restrict movements, preventing for the cost of a wetsuit, squeeze. Use less underwear you have a drysuit that for warm waters and more for looks brand new! Check cold, preferably Merino wool, out Whitesdiving.com for which is warm even if wet and more information. found in the nearest sorts store at reasonable prices. Knees Reviewed in and backside have been rein- X-RAY MAG # 26 forced with Kevlar. Read review here Poseidon.se

62 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Trockentauchanzüge DUI’s legendary CF200 has gotten UK-based Otter has been Aquata is German and means DUI a bit of a fashionable face lift. Otter around for longer than drysuit. The Aquata Recently, DUI has incorporated many of the other manu- Crush, from the renowned German manu- a computerized pattern design and cutting sys- facturers put together, but that doesn’t facturer of wetsuits, rescue suits, and drysuits, tem, which allows them to make continuous mean they are out of touch. Au contraire, is made from 5mm crushed heavy-duty neo- changes to their patterns, so they fit better than their new Travellite is the response to the prene, which is trippled glued, blind-stitched any other drysuit in the world for both men many travelling divers who want to bring sewn on the outside, and neoprene-taped on and women. In addition to a drysuit on their vacation. Weighing only the inside. The horizontal back zipper is made the sizing, DUI Special 7lbs, or 3.5kg, this is a light-weight mem- of anti-corrosive metal and protected by a Production drysuits brane drysuit with tel- neoprene cover. The neck seal is made allow you to truly escopic torso to facili- out of neoprene. Covered arm seals are design a unique drysuit tate the use of it’s made of heavy-duty just for you. With a diagonal front entry latex, compatible Special Production, you zip with outer cover. with Dry-Glove Ring- now get to choose To be worn with Rock System. The boots your own styling. Boots. Drysuits.co.uk are fitted with the More info on dry-sock system Dui-online. and separate com protection-shoe made of 6mm neoprene in variable size. The hood is made from 6.5mm neoprene with metal- plush coating and double seals for full-face DUI mask, hood defla- tor, and small col- lar with velcro tape for attachment to Waterproof the suit. Additional features include D1 Hybrid heavy-duty knee-, shoulder- and side- Don’t be fooled by the seemingly unassum- protection; voluminous ing look of the prototype above. The interest- leg pocket; and carry- ing parts are in on the inside. It may look like I wish there was ing bag. Two pockets another membrane suit, but thermal insulation for lead. Aquata.de is provided by a completely new porous insu- some way to travel lation material, which Waterproof predicts will with it without create quite a stir among dry suit affectionados. feeling like you’re We weren’t given a lot of detail as the suit won’t be formally presented until DEMA 09, but we tried taking the house it on, and it was very soft, comfy and remarkably with you. stretchy. It will be a high-end suit, so we don’t expect it to come cheap. Waterproof.se

63 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Heavy Light Cordura RedQ has been developed by the Camaro O’Three Ursuk Finnish suit specialists especially for demanding wreck div- ing and technical diving, where it is essential that the suit The new Arctec pro from Austrian O’Three has been the preferred brand for many remains intact. The three layer fabric with Cordura surface is in a class Camaro consists of a very special of this magazine’s technical dive gurus, includ- of its own, with high tear, puncture and wear resistance, and a special high-tech four-layer material, which is ing Leigh Cunningham and Pascal Bernabé. seam technique. The ergonomically fitting neoprene hood has a face highly elastic and flexible. This means Their top-of-the-range Ri 2/100 has been specifi- seal that allows use of either regular or full-face the suit can be cut 30-40% slimmer cally designed with the technical masks. The telescope waist of the FZ-model than other drysuits, which results in diver’s interests paramount allows persons of different heights to use the a smaller volume, more freedom of throughout its evolution. same suit. Includes integrated suspenders movement and higher comfort. The Hyper-compression creates and crotch strap as well as loops for hang- extra light and very thin material can an extremely dense wall of ing it to dry; knee and back reinforce- be packed very small and is perfectly protection and ensures vir- ments; 5 mm neoprene boots with a latex for trips abroad. Over the latex arm- and tually no buoyancy change surface, which reduces the need for extra leg-cuffs, there are additional neoprene at extreme depth. insulation; and heel strap retainers that cuffs to build a thermal bridge, which the neoprene has not keep the fins safely in place. The bot- supports heat insulation. The Arctec Pro been crushed, so tleneck-shaped wrist seals are comes equipped with Camaro’s own a good degree made of heavy duty latex. open hood construction, which is fully of insulation is Ursuk.com adjustable for personal fit. On the sur- maintained. face, it can be easily opened and pulled The resin-im- over the head. Also brand new are the pregnated attached thermosocks, which allows the outer lining user to select the boots of his or her choice, creates a SeacSub but Camaro will fit Explorer or Classic Boot finish that at no extra charge. Last but makes the SEAC drysuits are born in not least, a very important Ri 2/100 Italy where prototypes feature is the front zip- extremely are designed, styles are per, which allows single- strong developed and cut, and handed dressing without and snag- top-notch Si-tech valves any assistance. resistant. are assembled under the Camaro.at Unlike other utmost individual quality control conventional standards. The anatomical cuts outer linings to designed specifically for men neoprene suits, and women guarantee excel- the Ri coating is lent fit and optimal comfort. also impervious The 3.5 mm high-density neo- to water. This prene, which is highly resistant will enable the to compression, guarantees the suit to dry in best possible combination of minutes and thermal insulation, fit and com- will reduce fort. The exterior of the seams wind chill are blind stitched and taped on consider- the inside with neoprene tape. ably. The heavy duty exterior lining, Othree. the plush Helioflex inner layer, the co.uk Glide Skin collar, the Glide Skin wrists will make this suit a popular choice for the demanding diver. Seacsub.it

64 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The outer layer in Fourth Elements Ozone under- Titan undersuits from Glasgow, Scotland- garment complements their Arctic, Xerotherm based Lomo Watersport are high speci- and Drybase as part of a complete thermal fication diving undersuits made of a Under garments protection system. Windproof and waterproof, three-layer sandwich of material the Ozone layer is designed to be worn over consisting of an outer windproof One of the great things about a drysuit is that you can use it in a broad the Arctic and/or Xerotherm to provide addi- shell, a 100g thinsulate core range of water temperatures. All you need to change is the insula- tional warmth, and to provide weather pro- and a 150g polar fleece tion (underwear) you wear beneath the suit. Your insulation will vary tection before and between dives. The soft inner material. This sand- according to the water temperature and your activity level. For exam- shell outer fabric has been developed to wich provides great ple, during the summer months in Southern California, you might be maximise warmth for very little additional functionality both in able to dive with nothing more than a cotton sweatsuit underneath bulk, and the system of vents ensures man- and out of the water. your drysuit. Yet, to dive the northern Channel Islands in January, you agement of air within the drysuit is not The fleece lining would probably want to wear drysuit underwear made from Thinsulate hindered by the undergarments. is extremely or Polartec, which provides substantially more insulation. Wear too www.fourthelement.com comfortable much insulation on a dive during the summer, and you’ll overheat. and complements Wear too little insulation on a dive in the winter, and you’ll be cold. You the Thinsulate core must learn to adjust your insulation and the amount of weight you wear The Oxygen undersuit from extremely well. with it, from dive to dive. Weezle comes in two parts the www.ewetsuits.com O1 and the O2. Developed in conjunction with Fraser Bathgate at the IAHD, Weezle has pro- duced a a two-piece Undersuit with which it is possible to order top and bottom sections in two differ- ent sizes. Ursuk’s X-Tex/Finnfill The O1 underwear is elastic, is a jacket watertight and manu- lined with their factured in a four TS1 and fitted layer material, with with a crotch Finnfill fibre as strap system insulating layer, to keep it in and breathable place, worn watertight X-Tex over the top membrane as of the lower intermediate part. The layer. The surface is lower sec- of elastic and slip- tion is the pery tricot fabric, salopette and the inner lin- style O2 ing of fleece. The trousers, suit features are also fully front zipper with lined, double locks, chest making pocket with zipper, them large hip pock- suitable ets, elastic fabric in for use with the collar, cuffs and most styles legs, thumb and leg of drysuits. retainers and strong www.weezle.co.uk elastic waist band www.ursuk.com

65 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Waterproof is about We didn’t get a name for this fancy to introduce silicone material we saw at a leading dry seals as an alterna- suit manufacturer in Sweden. This tive to latex. There ultra-light honeycomb structure are several advan- material is seen as the future in ther- tages to this mate- mal insulation of drysuits. It doesn’t rial. It is medically compress laterally, and the hollow inert, something divers structure even allows for a more with latex allergy will even and less restricted distribution surely appreciate, but of gas in the suit—a boon if you above all, it does not use Argon for suit inflation. We tried tear easily, like latex does. the prototype suit, which was a And, relax, it will be avail- neoprene type. It was very comfy, able in a range of differ- stretchy and very easy to get in ent colours other than this and out of. The suit will be revealed rather skanky hue at the 2009 DEMA show

Fresh thinking No more Jacques-Yves Cousteau in cold an early drysuit. No vavles, water rush- no zipper. Donning and ing in around doffing was done by crawl- the neck! The idea C o mm ns Lice ns e 2.0. ing through the neck seal behind this innovative neck seal from Waterproof is to prevent the hood from gap- Cr e a tive ing when the diver looks down by having it already stretched over the flange

a cco rd i ng to the SI Tech Necktite, could turn the potential disaster of a torn neck seal into a mere inconvenience, saving you Another SI Tech innova- Rep r o du ce d time, money and possibly tion is this boot connec- some dives. The lower ring tion system, which lets has to be fitted on the the diver quickly change suit either by the manufac- boots, or go for another turer, or be retro-fitted the size, easily without alot of next time your suit goes in for work. The suit will need a repairs or seal replacements corresponding connector

66 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Finnish company Ursuk Ltd has working clothing, thanks to breath- Tex was worn for 12 hours in field been manufacturing dry suits for ing materials and other modern conditions (completely immersed 40 years. “Right from the begin- fabrics. in the water) where water temper- ning we have focused solely on ature was +2˚C, and there were dry suits, and do not produce Rise to fame no symptoms of hypothermia or protective suits at all,” explains Rising to a leading role as a manu- lack of working order,” Kallionpää Marko Kallionpää, the managing facturer of survival and diving suits clarifies. “Without a survival suit, director. didn’t happen by chance. Just 10- he could probably have survived According to Kallionpää, there 15 years ago, Ursuk Ltd had an im- for only 30-60 minutes. So, in very is an important distinction be- age of manufacturing reliable but extreme conditions, a survival suit tween floatation suits, diving suits, traditional products. When new is really helpful,” he added. and survival suits. Floatation suits product development was initi- today, the line of survival suits and wet suits let water inside the ated in the 1990s, Ursuk Ltd could covers about 20 different models suit, which under cold conditions, already offer a dry suit solution for in all sizes and various colours. quickly leads to decreasing body any conceivable need. Even though their standard suits temperature. Therefore, the tech- but it was a breathing and wa- have proved to be good, and nical quality and protection these terproof survival suit that firmly es- they have been made in large suits can offer is inadequate for tablished the company’s position production series, all customers demanding conditions and pro- among professionals. The grow- have different needs and expec- fessional use. ing popularity of fast RIB boats in tations. When these needs and ex- As a manufacturer of water- professional navigation led to an pectations are to be met, suits are proof suits, Ursuk Ltd.’s long history increasing popularity of survival modified for each user group, be- has given a whole new basis for suits, because to the professional cause the demands can be very product development. Once 100 navigators, a survival suit is an ob- different—for example, a fighter percent waterproof items be- vious solution. pilot flying Mach 2, compared to came more commonplace, Ursuk When missions don’t require a rescue officer in a storm at sea. Ltd was able to move its focus working under the surface, a from mere protection against cold breathable but still fully waterproof Commercial standards water, to ergonomics and cloth- survival suit is a more useful choice Ursuk Ltd then focused on de- ing. People dislike clothing that than a suit designed purely for veloping drysuits for professional doesn’t fit, and the same applies diving. The breathable fabric of a groups with special requirements to dry suits. survival suit also keeps the user dry such as police and special forces. Ursuk’s intensive product development from moisture coming from inside their needs are quite very differ- managing has made vast improvements to the suit, which is important during ent from other professional groups director survival suits. Not too many years long working hours. Sea rescue due to the relatively high amount Marko ago, a dry suit was used only for officials, military and semi-military of work done above the surface. Kallionpää special situations and emergen- personnel working close to water, Ergonomic demands are also deeply cies, and the suits were quite and flight crews working in varia- high due to the nature of difficult engaged uncomfortable, and among rec- ble conditions have become users missions. The model range which in a dis- cussion of reational divers, they were a rare of survival suits. was developed over many years the design and expensive luxury. By contrast, “In a test conducted by one in close collaboration with profes- of a new a modern dry suit can be worn of our customers, a basic model sional divers lends itself naturally to A visit to Ursuk suit constantly, as a part of normal survival suit made out of Gore- demanding sports diving. Where drysuits are manufactured Andrey Bizyukin recently paid a visit to the Ursuk dry suit factory in Text and photos by Andrey Bizyukin, PhD Finland and had a look behind the scenes before trying out some Edited by Peter Symes of their products under demanding Finnish conditions.

67 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Marko Kallionpää demonstrates how each Ursuk suit is individual- ly tested before leaving the factory

Thousands square meters of manufacturing halls are filled with production lines for many kinds of dry suits. Ursuk is entirely a Nordic manufacturer

BELOW: The Ursuk factory headquarters

Andrey Bizyukin tries out the Heavy Light Cordura RedQ in the Finnish archipelago Ursuit diving dry suits can be divided into three major groups depending on the usage:

• Surface rescue and combat missions. suit. I never had a leak, I was never cold, are made for diving in cold Scandinavian The material and details of the suits are Almost all production of diving suits and I never felt restricted in my move- waters. I liked the bright red colour, too, designed to ensure maximal operating ability. The proof is in the pudding Surface rescue missions require visibility in dark takes into consideration different condi- —diving the suit ments. Both the boots and the fixed hood which I think looks great oin photographs. ■ and often rough sea conditions. This important tions and optional equipment and are I went with the ‘Heavy Light’ drysuit kept me perfectly warm at all times, per- therefore often tailored to meet customer haps not so surprising since all Ursuk suits factor has been witnessed in many opera- model and Finnfill underwear for a few tions, such as the Estonia rescue mission. needs said Kallionpää. days of diving in the Finnish archipelago. Ursuk currently produces seven models The drysuit fabric was soft and had a • Training missions, demanding great durabil- of dry suits for sport divers up to profes- pleasant feel to it. Even the standard size sional diving. All Ursuk dry suits comes with ity, for instance field practice, occupation fit me very well, and it was flexible and exercises and heavy work diving. These work a fixed hood, which the company be- allowed for freedom of movement in lieve is a better solution, stating it is more missions demand great durability together all directions, in part, thanks to the tel- with ergonomic qualities. The material used comfortable and warmer under water. escopic torso. The fixed hood was very According to Kallionpää, the volume of are resistant to abrasive and sharp surfaces comfortable and fitted perfectly due to such as metal objects inside a wreck. production in the manufacturing plant in good design. The front zip, which sits pro- Turku, located in the west coast of Fin- tected under another outer protective • Dirty and contaminated conditions. land, has been rising strongly in the past zip, was easily zipped without any assist- few years, which supports Ursuk Ltd’s vi- Different occupational groups must some- ance needed from a buddy. The heavy times work in contaminated and/or very dirty sion of customer satisfaction and success duty seals looked reassuringly reliable. in product development. Before leaving conditions such as harbours, possible oil leak After a week of diving in the cool Finn- areas or during shipwrecks. This group has its the factory each suit is individually tested ish watera, I was very pleased with the and provided with a factory warranty. own material and model range. ■

68 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Finding the Discoveryearly of prehistoric humans remains in the Yukatan

69 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 kurt amsler EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Yucatán

Text by Paul Jeffrey Photos by Kurt Amsler

Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula is a relatively flat landscape where no rivers flow for the rain sinks quickly into the limestone and runs unseen to the sea. The ground is pocked by vine-draped sinkholes— cenotes, as they are called locally—where the roofs of underground caverns have collapsed. For centuries these openings have provided inhabitants with access to fresh water, and the inac- cessibility of the deep caves beneath the openings has long beckoned the adventur- ous, though physical chal- lenges limited how far they could go.

In recent years, however, techno- logical developments in underwater Many prehistoric remains in the submerged caves of Yucatan have been discovered by González’s project, such as these bones of extinct horse and camel species 70 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Yucatán

THIS PAGE: Arturo González and colleague Carmen Rojas investigate the caverns in the Dos Ojos cenote for archaeological remains. At 60km long, it is one of the longest underwater cave systems of the Yucatan peninsula

equipment have made it easier physically challenging dives of up for divers to go farther into the to six hours. The multidisciplinary networks of dark tunnels branch- team excavated three human ing out from the submerged skeletons from the depths, then caves, and reports began to carefully studied and analysed emerge about this dark under- them. What they found startled world and its store of human and the scientific community. animal remains. the skeletons are possibly Arturo González, a Mexican older than any other human biologist and underwater archae- remains in the Americas. One in ologist working with the Instituto particular has been estimated Nacional de Antropología e by three foreign laboratories to Historia, decided to launch a be more than 11,600 years old. systematic examination of the Furthermore, the skeletons bear flooded caverns in 1999. He no resemblance to the Maya worked together with a team of who came to dominate the specialists including cave divers, region thousands of years later, archaeologists, palaeontologists and whose remains and artefacts and photographers, who would are found near the openings of face technically difficult and the cenotes. If anything, accord-

71 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Yucatán ing to González, the newly discovered skeletons have a cranial morphology resembling that of people in eastern Asia. The findings are forcing the sci- entific community to reassess its theories about when and how early humans travelled to the Americas. “What we’ve discovered is a piece in the puzzle of human evolution,” says 44-year-old González, who has been direc- tor of the Museum of the Desert in the northern Mexican city of Saltillo since 2002. “But there are a lot of other pieces missing from the puzzle. We have one impor- tant piece, but it doesn’t match any other existing part in a way that would help us understand how early humans colonized the Americas.” González first learned scuba diving as part of his university studies on biology, but it was a National Geographic docu- mentary about the discovery, by underwater explorer James Coke, of an ancient fireplace 30 metres below the surface that inspired him. “For me this was unbelievable,” says González. “Caves have always interested me, this space below the ground that for many indigenous groups signifies the mother’s womb. When I saw this documentary about fire pits under the water, I began to travel to these areas to explore them. We got to know James Coke, a pioneer in the exploration of these spaces, and he alerted us to other discover- ies he’d made. Thanks to him we began to form a project that since 1999 has been making important discoveries about the ancient history of the Americas.”

Arturo González and colleague Carmen Rojas explore the vast caverns of the 60km-long Dos Ojos cenote 72 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Yucatán

Cave exploration level was more than 100 metres Cave divers and speleologists below where it is today. González have been exploring Yucatán’s believes these people may have submerged cave systems since used the caves not only as rudi- the 1980s, collecting geological, mentary kitchens, but also as archaeological and palaeon- pathways to water sources. There tological evidence that is now is also strong evidence that dead crucial to González. Deep in bodies were placed in special the caverns, González and his caves far below the ground, per- colleagues retrieved fossils that haps to protect them from natu- are between 10,000 and 60,000 ral predators. But then a massive years old, including those of shift in global climate produced extinct camelids, giant armadil- rapid rises in the sea level, as well los and horses. All are from the as the intricately linked water Pleistocene Epoch, when the table inland, and the burial sites Yucatán was covered not with and kitchens were all flooded low forests but with dry grass- – to remain unseen until cave lands. In at least one submerged divers discovered them millennia cave north of Tulum, near the later. Caribbean coast, the divers found another ancient fireplace, Rolex funds research whose carbon traces of partially Funds from the Rolex Award burned camelid bones suggest will allow González to field a that the prehistoric humans there team for at least another year survived in part on the meat of of research; the group intends ABOVE: Using an underwater compass, González records the exact position of camel and an animal whose species dis- to focus on the Chan Hol cave, horse fossils in a centoe. Their study will broaden the knowledge about ancient fauna, environ- appeared at the end of the where a fourth skeleton has been ment and climate. TOP RIGHT: Several dives and meticulous archaeological work were needed Pleistocene. discovered, but not yet removed to properly excavate the bones found in cenotes, such as this skull dating from the Maya peri- When prehistoric people were or analysed. The more skeletons od. RIGHT: A skull from a cenote is recovered by González. Several hundred metres from the cave’s entrance, human skeletons were found. The finding suggests that they were intention- cooking camelid meat, the sea examined, González says, the ally deposited at a time when the caves were dry, about 10,000 years ago

73 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED feature Yucatán

more comparisons can be made to similar understanding of prehistoric life. Mayan Riviera. Cenotes hold vital freshwa- human remains in other parts of the world these findings have greatly increased ter reserves, yet millions of litres of water —perhaps even putting more pieces into interest in the cenotes, leading González are pumped from these aquifers every the puzzle of human history. Beyond that, and his colleagues to work with residents day, far exceeding their natural regenera- González says he and his colleagues will of local villages to protect the rare trea- tion rate in some parts of the peninsula. In focus on trying to understand the lives of sures from damage and looting. They remote areas, cenotes are sometimes used these ancient people, especially how they have also encouraged the villagers to as waste dumps that spread organic and used different caves for different purposes speak out against the contamination of chemical pollution. —clues that will lead researchers to move the underground waters by unrestrained As knowledge of the past increases, the beyond the bones and toward a better tourist development along the so-called challenge of getting in and out of the twist- González and his team made several exhausting dives in Yucatan’s cenotes in order to bring submerged archaeological remains to the surface to be studied and preserved 74 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED González and col- league Flor de Maria Curiel, in a field Get great discounts on feature laboratory he estab- lished in the jungle, carry out a pre- your dive trips with liminary study of two human skulls brought the underwatercard out of a nearby cenote BELOW: Alehandro Don’t leave home without it Terrazas Mata (left) and Guillermo Acosta of Mexicio’s National Autonomous University (UNAM), and González (centre) discuss three skulls found in Yucatan’s cenotes

UNDERWATERCARD MEMBER NUMBER www.underwatercard.com 200123

UNDERWATERCARD MEMBER NUMBER 200123

www.underwatercard.com dive in. explore. González and his team found human remains in Yucatan’s cenotes that provide new insights into early human settlement of the Americas ...and save! ing labyrinths remains a dangerous pursuit in cinating and outstanding Over 300 dive discounts the name of science and discovery. With com- research projects in modern plicated logistics and multiple equipment com- geosciences and has already delivered an all over Australasia: binations to minimize the risks, the long and impressive number of outstanding results”. And Australia, Cambodia, East Timor, disorienting trips underwater remain physically it’s a race against time given the Yucatán’s Fiji, Indonesia, Malaysia, Micronesia, and emotionally gruelling. A typical under- burgeoning tourist development. Yet for Myanmar, New Caledonia, New water expedition can take six hours, including González, the risks the divers take as they Zealand, Papua New Guinea, the first hour to reach the cave of interest, an plunge into the watery windows on the past hour to carry out research, and then, given are worth the challenge. Philippines, Polynesia, Singapore, the need for decompression stops along the “As an inhabitant of the Americas, I’m inter- Solomon Islands, Thailand, Vanuatu, way, a four-hour return trip to the surface. ested in knowing who these people were, Vietnam, East Timor ...more coming. Fortunately, the scientists are assisted with this where they came from, and when their first aspect of their work by a small cadre of highly steps in the Americas occurred,” he explains. See you underwater trained, professional divers whose knowledge “In these sites, we can find the archaeologi- of the systems is a precious resource. cal contexts just about as they were left by Many years of work still lies ahead for the people of the Ice Age. It’s a great treasure González in what, according to Prof. Wolfgang and it’s my passion to get there and discover Stinnesbeck, specialist of Mexican geol- them, and be able to interpret them in order ogy and palaeontology at the University of to share a new understanding of the history of www.underwatercard.comwww.underwatercard.com Heidelberg, “is certainly one of the most fas- humanity.” ■

75 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Axis Mundi The making of a movie in the depths of Yucatán’s jungle

Text and photos by Nathalie Lasselin, director of Axis Mundi CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A diver The Yucatán peninsula is get introduced to, cave could set up hammocks and rest confronts the giant mostly known for its Riviera diving in the world famous protected from jungle life. stalactite of Karril; before that, detailed logistics Cross-section of Cénote Kanun; Maya and its all-inclusive sink holes known as the and preparation had us put in our package trips that allow cenotes. Human skull found luggage all that we might need in a cenote tourists from colder cli- during our journey. The trip gro- mates an easy escape Those that leave the coast will ceries were acquired in Cancun. often head towards Chichen Itza, the program lying ahead of us from their dreary winters. with the famous Maya ruins. We was the documentation of the Cancun airport is the usual are heading in the same direc- cenotes, wells and caves in the arrival point for these tion as we set out on our Yucatán region. For over ten years, our masses including those 2008 expedition, but in our case, team leader, Curt Bowen, has we go right past Chichen Itza been returning here, meticulously who have opted for one and head further inland to a tiny combing through the area and of the now several “Riviera village named Homun, which following trails, looking for new Maya” packages that is located in the very middle of cenotes to explore. In addition the Yucatán jungle, a four hours’ to searching for new caves, this combine relaxing and div- drive by car from Cancun. year’s expedition was also about ing on coral reefs with the here, our hotel turns out to be shooting a film Extreme Diver, opportunity to discover, or a 400-year-old church where we a US-Canadian co-production

76 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Filming puts divers in lots of awkward places and positions; Go back 100 times to Lodging for the night in ham- get the job done mocks in a 1,000-year-old church; Axis Mundi news Local cultural site; The descent cenotes are not big open spaces ourselves are strong enough, with high ceilings often depicted in but also one must check that photographs, but wells—mere holes there is no biting or stinging in the ground, or other small orific- wildlife in the way. Despite this, es—which sometimes reveal niches our topside cameraman was full of artifacts. stung by Popoche (a plant between ADM and Pixnat. once on site, we checked if the that causes skin reactions). But the only way to discover new cave had been explored before. that goes with the job when caves is to take new roads and fol- It was a great help that known one has to stand in all those low the directions of the locals to cenotes were now marked with places in order to shoot film. any water source that may have their GPS coordinates, because Usually Enrique and Elmer, not been explored before, and without this, it would be impossible our local guides, would open then, send in the first diver. Most to keep track of every water-filled up a passage with their hole explored. machetes, and we would on every trip, keep on the marked trail, or we visit more have our eyes wide open if than 60 holes. we strayed off the trail. It’s difficult to if Popoche only causes an remember them unpleasant tingling like poison all, especially as ivy, it is nothing in comparison ravaging hur- to what happens if you get ricanes and too friendly with the Chechen overgrowth can tree. In 2006, a stranger got change their the brilliant idea of having his appearance picture taken while embracing from one year to a Chechen tree. Immediately, the next. he developed a cirrhosis skin rash. the water surface is in a dry cave, if the cave Norma, a Mexican archeologist the explorer will check it while turns out not who relayed the story to us, saw breath holding. to have been the man again a year later, and his brett Hemphill used this technique explored before, skin still had not regained its origi- several times. We were filming and we assess the nal color. However, nature is wise waiting for him on top of a rock. rappel depth and an antidote is usually close by. We could only hear him breathing, that will need to The challenge is to recognise it and quickly hyperventilating before div- be performed know how to use it. ing, and we were waiting for him to and get out the come up to hear his report. boxes with ropes, Going down Silent seconds went by. How long harnesses, hel- We were now set up close to the could he hold his breath? I had no mets and diving well, and the ropes were in place. idea, and as I could not see the equipment. Next, somebody went down to water surface, I could do noth- every site scout and report on the cave ing but wait passively. When he needs to be ana- appearance, the water and the finally emerged, his fast breathing lyzed in detail in type of artifacts—if there were concerned me. I asked him right respect to how any—and also whether the cave away if everything was all right. we are going to warranted a more indepth explora- He regained his composure and secure ourselves. tion or not. came climbing back up the rock. Not only do you Different techniques were used Obviously, something had hap- have to be sure for this first exploration. The first was pened. that the branch- called “power snorkelling”, which is, the cave was really very small, es or stones that in fact, the use of a sling tank that and there was a restriction right we use to secure allows us to briefly visit the cave. If after the entrance. He tried to go

77 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Click on YouTube Human bones button to and sometimes see the animal bones Axis Mundi trailer news are found in cenotes

BELOW: Diver rappels down a tight well through, but his climbing harness of no mount and small passages, got stuck in the restriction. He was and he is used to going close to able to detangle himself, but the his limits and sometimes beyond. exploration report was clear. The cave was too—small no explora- Karril and the tion was possible. giant stalactite if Brett did not push for further The challenge in this type of explo- exploration, I was not the one who ration is not always the diving as would push the issue either. Brett such. Given the limited resources is one of those people who would available in this remote area, all bring a shovel to open up a pas- dives had been conducted in sage if necessary. He is an expert sidemount, on air with 80 cubic feet aluminum tanks, which detached ourselves from the collect any artifacts. doesn’t really meet the require- ropes. Then, we started ‘the rope the database compiled ments for an hours’ dive. dance’— one tank, then another, by the team is recorded When I would go down to a diver, then a tank, then anoth- in an annual book with film, I was usually the first one in er, and so on, until the whole pictures, maps, reports of the water out of a team of four team, the tanks, the lights, and each explored cave, and divers. Two divers were filmed, the video housings were in place. the information is shared another diver took care of the This underwater choreography with government agen- lighting, and I carried the camera had been rehearsed many times cies like the INAH (Instituto housing and additional lighting. on the surface. Nacional de Antropologia and hung it to dry, and then we We found ourselves in front of e Hisotria). took cold showers. An unforgettable dive probably the biggest stalagmite After an hour of filming the We had to use an anti-tick dog When we arrived on the haci- in the Yucatán. It was impressive majestic stalagmite and the near- soap and inspect our bodies. The enda property where the cenote to stand in front of this marvel of by artifacts, it was time to get ticks are everywhere in the jungle, Karril is located, we stopped nature. A little bit deeper, around back to the surface and get the and every day, we had to get our vehicles on the side of the 35 meters, we discovered a com- equipment and the divers out. them off our skins. dirt trail. From there, we had to plete human skeleton lying on its When I was finally back on terra i was finally clean, and the din- carry the equipment for roughly side. Its position showed that the firma, four hours had gone by. ner bell rang. Tonight, we would 700 meters to get to a hole in cause of death was not drown- Water temperature was com- have rice and red beans—a­ real the ground, which was only one ing, but that the body had been fortable at 25°C and a 5 mm wet- treat that we alternate with spa- meter by 60 centimeters wide. thrown into the water after death. suit offered optimal protection ghetti. i slide into the hole, while look- there are many human skel- without interfering too much with the 2008 expedition ended ing out for the snakes that some- etons, as well as some from ani- movement on the rope. with no accidents or illnesses. times dwell there; it was a vertical mals, in the cenotes, in addition it was time to put away all the New cenotes were listed and descent of more than 15 meters to pottery. Some artifacts are equipment and to walk back to documented. The highlights of before touching the water sur- clearly Mayan offerings, but that our vehicles. We kept the topside this expedition were, without a face. is not the general rule. camera not far away from the doubt, the giant stalactite of the walls are covered with hun- the darker a skeleton is stained, hole, in order to be able to film Karril, the extraordinary meeting dreds stalactites of different sizes. the older it is. Some of these skel- the bats exiting at dusk. with the Mayan people, learning The ceiling is full of bats. etons may be more than 1,000 Another long day of exploration about their culture, and diving in once we got into the water, years old. Pottery has been dated had come to an end, and within an absolutely fascinating environ- feet first, the long dive began. to 250 to 900 BC. In Mexico, it is the hour, we would be back in ment. ■ First, we put our fins on and absolutely forbidden to move or Homun. We rinsed our equipment

78 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The FActs and viewpoints in this section ARE NOT NECESSARILY THE VIEWS OF x-ray mag. EQUIPMENT PRESENTED IN THIS SECTION HAS NOT BEEN tested BY x-ray MAG STAFF, NOR ARE THE ITEMS warranted, information PROVIDED IS CONDENSED from manufacturer DESCRIPTIONS. Texts are usually edited for gifts to go length, clarity and style. Links active at the time of publications point & click on bold links

Edited by Gunild Symes all images courtesy of the manufacturers Shark LoversGifts Only that bite Shark Pendant Pool Shark Battles My, what big From the first edition of the Miss Duke it out in the pool with Rainbow Reef Gogh Jewelry Collection on Miss- Hammerhead and Great Whate Sharks by teeth you Scuba.com, this shark pendant Swimways. High-speed swimming action. Six action is hand-crafted of industrial designs in red, yellow, black-gray and green. For ages have... sterling silver by gifted five and up. Batteries not included. www.swimways.com artisan and young Fearsome sterling silver PADI Course Director, shark with open jaws ring Szilvia Gogh, who has available from The Big Zoo been diving since for US$45.99. Ring Sizes 5-10. she was 13 years old. www.thebigzoo.com Measures about 3/4 to 1 inch (15-25mm) in diameter. Price: US$59.00. A 1mm bead chain Whale Shark Shoes is available separately for We love the awesome gentle giant Whale $10.00. Miss-scuba.com Shark, the biggest fish in the sea. It roams the world feeding on plankton and roles its eye at us snoopy underwater primates with strange fins. Sport its spots and stripes on your next pair of shoes by Oceanatomy. Avail- able in kids sizes too Chomp! and on t-shirts, gifts and Chomp! cards. Great White Shark backpack Shark School High for kids by Stephen Joseph quality has full-zip enclosure, roomy Is your inner shark confused? Cartoonist S.T. Lewis Keds interior, adjustable straps, and says, “Here’s a shark trying to figure out the differ- Champion hanging loop. Price: US$21.99 ence between surfers and seals, so he won’t eat any mini slip-on. more surfers by accident... Whenever a surfer is attacked Price: US$60.00 www.shopatron.com by a shark, some shark expert claims that the shark just www.zazzle.com mistook him for a seal. How hard is it, sharks?” Find it on t-shirts and cards at his shop on www.zazzle.com

79 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED gifts to go Tateossian Shark Tag This sterling silver 24-inch chain and mili- tary “ID Tag” with shark cut out and laser engraving is made by the UK-based Tateossian jewelers. “Contemporary, but unusual, fashion-forward, but timeless”, each piece is individually hand- crafted, while uncompromising in level of quality, for this lux- ury brand. Price: €149.00 www.tateossian.com

Shark Tooth Cufflinks Ralph Hagen Dive Cartoon T-Shirts Celebrating one of the ocean’s most feared predators. Shark’s Syndicated cartoonist and scuba diver, Ralph Hagen, tooth cufflinks in sterling silver are designed by Jan Leslie and has created hilarious dive cartoons exclusively for portray a stylistic exhibition of strength. Ivory enamel accents. X-RAY MAG. Find them on t-shirts and gifts at The X-RAY Measures about 5/8 x 5/8 inches. Bullet back closure. Free MAG Store. Have a laugh and do a good deed. A per- ground shipping. Price: US$295.00 www.cufflinks.com cent of all sales goes to ocean conservation. Big dis- counts for retailers. International shipping. Many styles, colors, organic, kids and adult sizes available starting at just US$13.99. www.cafepress.com/xraymag

Glow-in-the-Dark Shark Shirt Shark Tail Huge teeth in a gaping mouth glows in the dark on a Bottle Stopper black t-shirt created by Planet Earth Designs, an award This wine stopper created winning maker of 100% cotton printed t-shirts. Special by Maria Medina has a heavy hand-dyeing and screen-printing techniques are used hand-cast pewter top and a rub- to make each T-shirt a one-of-a-kind piece of wear- bery base, sealing most bottles per- able art. Establsihed in 1986, Planet Earth Design is a fectly. Food-safe and FDA-approved, wholly Australian-owned company. Price: US$25-35.00. the base is made from a synthetic material www.aussiethings.com and will not impart any flavor or smell to the wine. Made of the finest lead-free pewter, the Shark Martini Glasses shark tail top is an elegant way to preserve an This is one smooth way to drink with the sharks. Sand opened bottle of wine for several days. Can blasted into the bottoms and sides of ultra nautical also be used as a decorative top for oils, vin- martini glasses are Great white, Hammerhead, Black egars or soaps, as the tapered shape fits dif- tipped and Thresher shark designs. To frost the texture ferent sized bottles. Dimensions: 5.75” Tall and reveal the sharks, these martini glasses are soft- (2.75” Rubber Stopper) Price: US$25.00. sandblasted. Exclusive to After 5. Measures 6.75 inches www.mixtgoods.com tall. Set of four. Each glass has a different shark pattern. Made in the U.S. Price: US$99 www.after5catalog.com

80 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED First century trading routes centered on the Silk Road, circa 500 BCE - 500 CE Turtle eggs still on the turtle tales menu in Malaysia

Trade Routes w i k ipe d a for Tortoiseshell Edited by Prized since ancient times, the tor- Bonnie McKenna toiseshell trade has flourished across continents and across the seas. The World Wildlife Foundation Since 1700, the Japanese have been has launched a campaign famous for the world’s best tortoise- to stop Malaysians from eat- shell or bekko artists. ing sea turtle eggs. WWF’s Marydele Donnelly, direc- five-month campaign aims to wikipedia tor for Caribbean Conservation collect 40,000 signatures from Corporation, reported that during Malaysians pledging to stop the past 100 years, millions of hawks- consuming the eggs and halt bills have been killed to supply the the trade in turtles and their Turtle’s shell formed from ribs inside the egg markets around the world with tor- parts. A spokesman said that toiseshell. The wanton killing of the some 10,000 leatherback tur- hawksbill turtle has had a devastating tles used to nest in northeast- and enduring effect on the world’s ern Terengganu state, but this hawksbill populations. has now been reduced to less the largest market for bekko in the than ten a year. Authorities are 20th century was Japan. From 1950 to now patrolling the beaches 1992, Japan imported approximately near hawksbill nesting sites in two million hawksbills—more than southern Malacca state after 1.3 million large turtles and 575,000 4,000 eggs were stolen. Under stuffed juveniles. Malaysian law, it is illegal to col- the Convention on International lect turtle eggs without a per- Trade in Endangered Species of Wild mit, but the demand for turtle Fauna and Flora (CITES) came into eggs in Southeast Asia contin- force in 1975. In 1977, it prohibited ues to drive the illegal trade. ■ trade in tortoiseshell among the sig- natory nations. As trading nations rati- Police in Vietnam free fied the convention, the volume of hundreds of sea turtles trade diminished. Japan took an exception to the Vietnamese police removed ban and did not stop trading for 849 turtles from a fish-farming several more decades. By 1992, inter- cage from a man who was national pressure forced Japan to illegally raising them. The man encyclopedia britanica halt their trade in tortoiseshell. Japan bought the sea turtles from fish- continues to try to re-open the inter- ermen in the city of Nha Trang, Japanese scientists from the Riken Center thickening of the skin on the back that indi- that the shell forms from small bony plates national tortoiseshell trade. In 2007, raised them to maturity, and for Developmental Biology in Kobe, Japan, cated the position of the shell. The ribs grew within the turtle’s skin. The researchers also Japan announced that it would con- then sold them for their meat have discovered how the turtle’s shell outward from the developing shell trap- found that one stage in the embryonic tinue to fund the bekko industry for and shells. develops. The scientists studied and com- ping the turtle’s shoulder blades inside its development of the modern turtle resem- another five years. international wildlife and traf- pared the development of soft-shelled rib cage. This developmental difference is bles that of a 220-million-year-old fossil dis- Despite progress in reducing the ficking organizations said it is Chinese turtles, chickens and mice. They unique among vertebrates whose shoulder covered in China last year. The 2008 finding trade in tortoiseshell, hawksbill popu- illegal to raise or sell sea turtles observed a folding process that occurred blades are formed outside the rib cage. in China is the oldest turtle fossil on record. lations have not stabilized nor begun in Vietnam, but the practice is only in the turtle, producing a disk-shaped This finding challenges the traditional theory ■ to recover. ■ not unheard of. ■

81 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED turtle tales

Kemp’s ridley sea turtles nest count increases For the fourth consecutive year, Restoration Project. the number of Kemp’s ridley sea the lower nest- turtle nests increased along the ing figures on coast of the state of Texas in the the upper Gulf United States. Coast of Texas “There were 197 nests on the are due to storm USFWS Texas coast—two more than last erosion of the year. There was less on the upper beaches changing the grade of Allen said, “We are awaiting Texas coast due to the hurricane the slope and the renourishment of release of the new government (Ike in 2008) damaging the beach- many beaches along the Bolivar Recovery Plan for the Kemp’s rid- es, but the turtles went to other Peninsula. Studies show that renour- leys and hope that the Texas coast beaches,” said Carole Allen, Gulf ishment hinders turtle nesting, but is declared critical habitat for this office director of the Sea Turtle that it rebounds the following year. endangered sea turtle.” ■

Acclimating captive Hawksbills

On the island of Nevis, in the skills necessary to thrive in the wild. the sea to slowly acclimate to the Caribbean, Barbara Carr Whitman To prepare the turtles for release, wild. with the Under the Sea Sealife they are kept in a 2000 gallon Whitman believes that accli- Education Center has been accli- aquarium allowing the turtles to mation will reduce stress at the mating sea turtles prior to release swim while in captivity. The tank is final release and boost the tur- into the sea since 2002. populated with fish and inverte- tle’s chance of survival. During According to experts, methods brates and made to resemble the the acclimation period the turtles of acclimation vary and have not wild as much as possible. When increase their muscle strength and been studied thoroughly, but it is the turtles are between 16 and 18 adapt to a world without walls, believed that sea turtles raised in months old, wearing a special har- predators or a ready supply of captivity do not have the innate ness, they are taken for swims in food. ■

Tracking endangered sea turtles with barcoding

The American Museum of Natural information and tools to leather, shell History and the University of track international trade and bone Canberra, among other organiza- in wildlife. The barcode means that tions, demonstrated that barcod- sequences from the study the species ing can be applied to all seven sea have been supplied to identity or turtles and provide insight into the the Barcode of Life data- geographic genetic structure of this widely dis- base and GenBank, so origin will be persed group of animals. that the data are freely available. easy to decipher assisting wildlife barcoding items collected by The potential for DNA barcoding management in halting the trade wildlife management can provide is significant: trade in meat, eggs, in endangered species. ■

82 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED shark tales

Edited by Scott Bennett World’s First Shark Sanctuary in Pulau During the recent United Nations bigger in size than France. He urged conservation and without regard for meetings, the President of Palau, other countries to follow suit and ban adequate compensation to the island made a bold inititative: the creation of shark fishing in their waters. States which rely on this resource,” the world’s first shark sanctuary within “It is anomalous that Palau is experi- President Toribiong concluded. the territorial waters of his tiny Pacific encing economic difficulty while it sits the diving industry has long cham- nation. President Johnson Toribiong in the middle of the richest waters in pioned protection of the world’s shark said his country wanted to provide the world. We can no longer stand by populations. Palau is a South Pacific “a sanctuary for sharks to live and while foreign vessels illicitly come to our scuba diving hot-spot, and divers inter- reproduce unmolested in our 237,000 waters to take our greatest resource, nationally applauded the President’s

square miles of ocean”. That is an area our tuna stocks, without regard to their anouncement. ■ SOURCE: AP EDWIN MARCOW

‘Swim with sharks’ tours may become illegal on O`ahu Shark Diving—Do or Don’t? The Honolulu City Council gave prelim- activity” related to shark tour boats on inary approval today to a bill that O`ahu. The proverbial shark diving debate is a would ban so-called “shark tours” from councilman Charles Djou, the can of worms that seems determined operating on O`ahu. bill’s sponsor, asserts in the proposed to remain open. Staunch supporters on there are currently two shark tour ordinance that the existence of shark either side seem utterly determined to companies on the island, Hawaii Shark tours “raises public safety concerns for dismiss the other’s claims, yet like any Encounters and North Shore Shark ocean users, is disrespectful of Hawaiian issue, there are definitely pros and cons Adventures. Both companies are culture, alters the natural behavior to each. Naysayers claim the practice based in Haleiwa and attract sharks and distribution of sharks, and may be promotes untaural behavior and poses a by throwing bait into the water, then disruptive of ocean ecology and the threat to the participants, while defend- lowering customers into the ocean in natural environment”. ents claim it helps an increased aware- cages covered in Plexiglas to see the Djou’s bill comes on the heels of ness of the species’ plight and aids in sharks up-close. a Maui County ordinance passed conservation. Rather than a purely black State law already makes it illegal September 8, which makes shark tours and white issue, it is an entirely grey to operate shark tour boats within illegal in Maui County (the islands of area, with valid points to each. Feeding three miles of the shore, so tour Maui, Moloka`i, and Lana`i). Maui’s bill wild animals or altering their behaviour operators are forced to go out into used identical language to the O`ahu is far from a good thing, but I tend to international waters. The bill before bill in defining shark tour operations. believe increased awareness is starting the City Council would make it illegal Despite the recent bans, a recent to outweigh the cons. If the sharks are for to run “shark tour operations” University of Hawai`i study found that being protected and stringent safety is defined as “the maintenance of an shark tours “have a negligible effect on practiced, it is the lesser of two evils by office, the collection of a fee or other public safety” and do not draw sharks far. Who is right? You be the judge. financial consideration, the distribution, closer to shore. ■ marketing, or advertising of tickets, —Scott Bennett wikipedia or the conduct of any other business SOURCE: EXAMINER.COM Bull shark 83 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED ClementText and photos by Peter Symes Lee

Clement Lee is the time we hit the water there, at the time. So, we needed to embodiment of the en- we saw that it was something start it, but at the same time, special and that this was our we also needed to start dive trepreneurial dive indus- future. What I saw was beyond tourism in the area. We brought try pioneer. A quarter description. It was a like a liv- in the first guests in 1984 and of a century ago, he ing aquarium. We thought it never looked back. seeded what was later was an adventure area, but at the same time, we also asked PS: What obstacles did you to become a flourishing ourselves how to protect this have to overcome? recreational dive indus- pristine environment and the try in the Malaysian state marine life. CL: Oh dear... There were just of Sabah. In this inter- too many. Since we are talk- PS: What was there then? Was ing about Sipadan, it was view, we take a remi- there any sort of tourist infra- everything from permissions niscent look back at the structure in the area at all? to logistical issues and setting challenges overcome up infrastructure. Because we CL: Semporna (the bustling were the pioneers, nobody and the awards won. town which is a point of dis- knew about recreational scuba embarkation for the resorts on diving or what the dive industry PS: When was the first time you Mabul, Kapalai and others –ed. was all about, so there was no saw and dived on Sipadan? ) was just a fishing village at the help to get. We had to organ- Can you recall your first impres- time, with no infrastructure and ise everything ourselves. And at sions and sentiments? Did you only very basic facilities. When that time, things like the airport think that this could become we started off on Sipadan, we were not as good as they are one of the finest dive destina- had to buy, hire and bring in today, and transfers from the tions on the planet? everything from Semporna and airport took 3-4 hours in con- Tawau (bigger towns some trast to the hour it takes today. CL: We started Borneo Divers distance away –ed.) using It was a quite a challenge, but in 1983, but it was in 1984 chartered boats to bring it to I am glad to say that over the we went to do a survey of a the island. In a way, there was years, things have smoothed freighter in Ligitan reef, and none at all. We had to start out and better infrastructure after the survey, we went from zero. has been built. straight to Sipadan to check it out, because we could tell PS: What made you decide to PS: What do you consider your from the depth charts that it go into recreational diving and biggest victories or achieve- had to be significantly different build a dive operation? ments? from the other islands that we knew. CL: There was no professional CL: When we started, we knew And already from the first recreational dive industry at all where we going. The ques-

Clement Lee in his Kota Kinaballu office 84 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED profile

tion was how we were going to be improved, because the cru- guest permits (120) for Sipadan a lot of guests will be disappoint- achieve it? So, seeing Sipadan cial number is not the number for obviously fall far short of popular ed if they don’t get to Sipadan, now being hailed as one of the visitors, but the number of dives. demand. With all the resorts now but as I often tell my staff or fel- best dive sites in the world and But we do feel that Sipadan is in the area, how is it possible to low resort operators, ”In order to bringing it to the public, I consid- now protected for the future, distribute these permits fairly? see the rainbow we have to put er that our biggest achievement and that we have already seen Who has the final say? up with the rain.” It is a necessary in terms of the hard work that results in the form of improve- sacrifice we had to make. So, in was put into it. Another is being ments in the marine life. CL: This is quite a difficult ques- my explanations to my divers and able to sit down and work out tion. There will never be enough, colleagues, I always urge them how to protect the island PS: The limited number of day which means that some or even to protect the underwater envi- ronment, and I ask them PS: Sipadan seems to be bet- to think if they do one ter protected now, but do you dive less, they are actu- think the latest protection meas- ally contributing to the ures and restrictions are the right protection of the envi- ones? What can be improved? ronment. in regards to the CL: Sipadan now has a limited number of permitted quota of 120 guests per day, visitors, it is still controlled which in many ways, is a role by our National Security model, although the system can Council, which is an independent body that has the final say on the THIS PAGE: Images from Borneo matter. Divers resort on Mabul Island TOP LEFT: Clement Lee enjoying PS: The number of resorts breakfast with guests in the canteen

85 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Clement Lee Dive into X-RAY MAG’s profile Library of Issues! Download past issues FREE

is no point in just transferring the they don’t go out very often any- problems of Sipadan to another way. I’ve been living on Mabul island. That being said, there are since 2004, and now I actually see quite a lot of islands in the area more sharks today than few years that are uninhabited, undeveloped ago. Probably not because there and where the underwater life is of are more sharks, but that they are equal quality—in terms of macro less shy of people than before. I’ve life—to Mabul. The only problem is checked with the fisheries depart- that this area once had some issues ments, and while there are no with dynamite fishing, but tourism formal catch limits in place here, will put a definite end to it, and there don’t seem to be any con- and tourist facilities in area (around thus improve the environment. So cerns about the local shark popula- Sipadan and Mabul islands) seem indirectly, tourism will improve the tions either. to be constantly growing. How marine life. Meanwhile, curbing much more development do you over-development in some areas PS: There were also some writings think the area can sustain? Will will come down to the authorities. in the press about an aquarium to there be a time to say, “Stop. Now, be built on Mabul? What was that it is enough, or we’ll ruin the area,” PS: A while back, there were about? and how close do you think the rumours about shark finning taking area is to this point now? place on Mabul? Was there any CL: I know very little about this truth to it? project. But it was actually about CL: In any development plan, an ‘Oceanarium’ that was more there is a set capacity for what the CL: We need to get the perspec- like a museum. But if someone has ► area can carry, and even though tive right. There wasn’t shark finning the significant kind of money need- Sipadan is our main attraction, we as such where you cut of the fins ed—which I doubt—the money is cannot forever depend on it to and throw the rest of the fish back better spent elsewhere, such as draw in divers simply because of to the sea, and I can assure that Ligitan Island, which I said to the the limits to how much you can that isn’t the case. There are only consultant on the project. But I exploit the island, and the same three families on the island that have not heard anything about goes for Mabul, so the task of the have been involved with shark fish- any developments. government agency is to stand ing, and they have been doing so firm on this point. While the private for centuries, but they go far away sector has already made the sac- from the island and into interna- THIS PAGE: Scenes from rifice to move off Sipadan in order tional waters to do their catches, Borneo Divers resort. RIGHT: www.xray-mag.com to protect the environment, there and they sell the whole fish, and On the pier, Clement Lee pre- pares an underwater camera

86 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED profile Clement Lee

PS: You are also the chairman of Sabah try require the establishment of wildlife PS: What is your next ambition or Tourism Association. How do you see corridors and compulsory wildlife zones. dream? Sabah’s development economically I do believe that while we have made in an ecologically sustainable way? mistakes in this area in the past, we are CL: Well…umm, to retire as a Malaysian Coming to the region as a tourist, one now going in the right direction. diving ambassador. No, I am just kid- gets the impression that a lot of rain- ding. I would like to see the local dive forests have been and still are being PS: What is the key to successfully bal- industry, which we have been nurtur- cleared to give way for oil palm plan- ancing being an entrepreneur and hav- ing since our beginnings in 1984, to tations. Are the conservation laws and ing a family? continue to develop and serve as a measures strong enough to stand up role model for the many upcoming against big economic interests? CL: (Laughter) This is a tricky one and a countries that are just about to develop balancing act. I suppose that wife and their own dive industries, and (I hope) CL: In Sabah, we are helping to devel- husband must share the same ideology, that Sipadan can be a good example op a nation, and we have to do what principles and commitment at the same of how a government can balance we need to develop the country, but as time but—believe me—it also calls for a money and the environment and be a member of the Sabah tourism board, lot of sacrifice. But if you share a vision, prepared to make long-term and invest- I know that whatever we do, it’s going you also know where the sacrifices will ments in the future and in a sustainable in the right direction, because we are take you. way. That is something I think we can be continuously working in an ecologically proud of. sustainable manner and promoting our PS: What diving experience has had the region in terms of adventure and eco- biggest impact on you? PS: Any other thoughts you want to tourism. We adopt the principle of less is share with us? more, in not going after the mass tour- CL: Diving has had a tremendous effect ism, which we can’t accommodate. on me and has changed my entire life. CL: People who see me dive at the We don’t want to have to build a big It has made me more conscious about resort—and I regularly dive four dives a theme park when we’ve got great my surroundings and the environment. day just like many of them—often ask nature. Before I took up diving, I did not know me if I ever tire of diving. No! I still get a in regards to the felling of the trees, it what was important and what effected lot of fun out of diving. And I still get a is to make room for oil palm plantations, me. I didn’t care. Now, I am much more lot of joy out of seeing happy customers which is the main source of our income. aware of the surrounding life. It has enjoying the underwater environment. But I must also highlight that in those opened my eyes and made me much This is very important to me, to continue areas where forests are being cleared more alert. It changed my mind. I start- to have this kind of fun. At the same to make room for plantations, special ed noticing things, seeing the colours, time, I also let my staff dive, now that reforestation programs are implement- and I started wondering about things I we do make money, but we make it ed under which new trees have to be saw in nature. I now know where I am from happy customers and not some- replanted, so that the same acreage of going and feel like I have to share my body unhappy, and we continue to do forest is maintained and managed in a experiences with world. I can’t imagine so. I have to show them how beautiful sustainable way. Also the conservation what I would be without diving. I never the underwater world is. ■ laws now regulating the oil palm indus- looked back after taking up diving. Clement Lee in front of the numerous international resort and dive industry awards he and his operations have garnered over the years. TOP LEFT: Sipadan Island 87 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Arthur Weasley via Wikipedia. Reproduced under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License

Ambulocetus natans, a primitive whale tales Indohyus, a 48-million whale from the Eocene of Pakistan, pencil year-old semi-aquatic her- drawing, bivore, and hippos fall digital closest to cetaceans when coloring the evolutionary relation- Edited by Peter Symes ships of the larger group & Catherine GS Lim are reconstructed. On the Origin of Cetaceans

Cetacean ancestors probably ago, researchers first suggested that and whales based on their appearance, which are theorized to help the animal evolutionary tree places Indohyus and moved into the water before cetaceans were related to plant-eating fossil evidence became an important hear better while under the water. similar fossils close to whales, while mes- changing their diet, and sub- ungulates, specifically to even-toed way to determine the precise evolution- “Indohyus is interesting because this onychids are more distantly related. mammals like sheep, antelope and pigs. ary steps that cetacean ancestors took. fossil combines an herbivore’s dentition sequently, their teeth began to In other words, carnivorous killer whales Traditionally, the origin of whales was with adaptations such as ear bones that Cousin hippopotamus include carnivory, a new study and fish-eating dolphins were argued to linked to the mesonychids, an extinct are adapted for hearing under water Hippos remain the closest living relatives. finds. fit closely with the herbivorous hoofed group of carnivores that had singly- and are traditionally associated with These results suggest that cetacean animal group. More recent genetic hoofed toes. The recent discovery of whales only,” said Michelle Spaulding, ancestors transitioned to water before The origin of whales, dolphins, and por- research found that among artiodactyls, Indohyus, a clearly water-adapted her- lead author of the study and a gradu- becoming carnivorous, but that the poises—with their highly modified legs hippos are the cetaceans’ closest living bivore, complicates this picture (as new ate student affiliated with the American meat-eating diet developed while these and lack of hair—has long been a quan- relatives. fossils often do) because of ear bones Museum of Natural History. ancestors could still walk on land. ■ dary for biologists. Already some 60 years because no one would ever link hippos similar to those of modern cetaceans, the team found that the least complex Source: PLoS ONE

Rare Risso’s Dolphin Sighted Three Years Later The sighting of a rarely seen had been spotted was first seen those seen off Cornwall may be Risso’s dolphin in Wales and later off Bardsey Island in Wales. Then, the same group as those seen in in Cornwall three years later is in June this year, three years Wales.” helping scientists gleam more later, the same dolphin was At the moment, little is known information about the animal’s photographed off Mounts Bay about the Risso dolphin’s biol- offshore habits. in Cornwall, 172 nautical miles ogy or charater. The WDCS had Although Risso’s dolphins are away. proposed that more research found worldwide in both tem- “This is a fortuitous, unique and be done and that protection be perate and tropical waters, they very interesting discovery,” said given to areas where Risso’s dol- generally prefer to swim in deep Mark Simmonds, international phins are commonly found. An offshore waters, so they are rare- director of science at the Whale ideal choice would be the area ly spotted by people. Hence, and Dolphin Conservation around Bardsey Island is now compared to other dolphin spe- Society (WDCS). known to be a breeding and cies, we have very little knowl- “Because of their typically nursery area for the species. This edge about the structure and inaccessible habits, relatively lit- area is also home to other ceta- size of the Risso dolphin popula- tle is known about the biology cean species like bottlenose dol- tion in the United Kingdom. or behaviour of this species and phins and harbour porpoises. ■ the particular dolphin that it is very interesting to know that

Mike Baird via WikiMedia Commons. Reproduced under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported License Risso’s Dolphin — this one was encountered outside Port San Luis, Harford Pier, California, USA 88 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED sym e s

A plague of gun i ld

Text by Bonnie McKennah Images courtesy of NOAA and NSF

When you use a plastic bag or years, can spin for decades in one of a L. Andrade, a polymer chemist with the Weisberg, purchase a beverage that is in dozen or more gigantic gyres around the U.S.-based Research Triangle Institute, an expert on globe. every piece of plastic manufactured ropes, marine environ- a plastic bottle do you consider the United Nations Environmental in the past 50 years that made it to the bottles, mental monitoring where it goes when you are Program, in 2006, estimated that 46,000 ocean is still out there. motor-oil to develop methods finished with it? Do you think it pieces of plastic litter are floating on in 1997, Charles Moore founder of the jugs, tires, for analyzing the gyres goes to a landfill to be buried every square mile (3.429 sq. km.) of Algalita Marine Research Foundation and toys. contents. ocean. According to Greenpeace, 70 had his first encounter with what is often Moore could not to get an accurate statisti- or to a recycling center to be percent of the plastic will sink damag- referred to as the “Pacific Garbage believe what he was cal model, Weisberg’s group came destroyed or recycled? ing life on the ocean floor, and the other Patch,” more than nine years ago. Moore seeing. Out in this desolate area of the up with a plan to make a series of trawls 30 percent will end up in a gyre and/or was returning to Southern California from ocean was a stew of plastic rubbish. He with a surface plankton net, along paths Think again, not all plastic makes it to wash up on a distant shore. Hawaii after the Trans-Pac sailboat race began to realize that the trail of plastic within a circle with a 564-mile (907.67- landfills or recycling centers; much of it the idea that this vast expanse of when he decided to take a more north- went on for hundreds of miles. km) radius. The area of the circle would ends up in giant ocean vortexes called debris is akin to an island of plastic gar- erly course just to try a new route. He first As his boat, Alguita, glided for a be exactly one-million square miles gyres. bage that you can walk on, is incorrect; began noticing a line of plastic bags just week through the bobbing toxic debris (3,429,904 sq. km.). Trawling would begin Within these gyres is a plastic soup of there is no mass, it is a soup of plastic. below the surface of the sea, that was trapped in the area that is properly in the central pressure cell of the high- waste. The Northern Pacific gyre alone is The plastic is distributed throughout the followed by an ugly tangle of junk: nets, referred to as the Northern Pacific pressure system that creates the gyre. estimated to contain more than 100 mil- water column as well Subtropical Gyre, Moore A manta trawl, an apparatus resem- lion tons of flotsam. Some estimate that it as the sediment on the began to wonder how bling a manta ray with wings, a broad is the size of Texas and others say it is as sea floor. For this reason, all the plastic wound mouth and trailing a net with fine mesh large as the United States. there are no satellite up in the ocean, where would be used to skim the surface of the Nearly 90 percent of the floating mate- photos of the debris. it came from and ocean. rial is plastic and four-fifths of the rubbish what did it mean? His A year later, Moore and his crew set comes from land. It is swept in by wind Long halflife questions were soon out aboard Alguita to test his theories, or washed in by rain off streets, highways Eventually, plastic will answered and the dis- and to sample and analyze the debris and unconstrained landfills into streams, break down into carbon covery had a profound in the gyre. Eight days out of port, in a rivers and eventually out into the sea. dioxide and water from effect on his life. becalmed sea, miles from their desti- the other 10 percent comes from ships; exposure to the sun’s nation, they decided to practice their much of it from illegally jettisoned fishing ultraviolet rays. On land, Setting up research manta trawl technique. After trawling gear such as nets, floats and synthetic this breakdown can take Moore has since dedi- only three and a half miles, they pulled ropes to avoid the expense of proper dis- decades, even centu- cated his life to study in the manta. What they saw amazed posal after entering port. ries. At sea, it takes even what is going on out them. Within the rich broth of minute sea in addition, every year thousands of longer because seawater there and spread the creatures was hundreds of colored plas- cargo containers fall overboard in stormy keeps the plastics cool word of his findings. tic fragments; a plastic-plankton soup. seas spilling their contents. This debris, while algae, barnacles Wanting to make a there was plenty of large debris in the according to Dr Curtis Ebbesmeyer, an and other marine growth proper study of the rub- path of Alguita too, by the end of the trip American oceanographer who has been limit ultraviolet exposure. bish in the gyre, Moore they collected about a ton of debris. The studying ocean currents for more than 40 According to Anthony NOAA enlisted Dr Steven B. items included: Map highlighting the North Pacific Subtropical Convergence Zone (STCZ) within the North Pacific Gyre. It is also the location of the Great Pacific Garbage Patch 89 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED THIS PAGE: Detail images of the garbage patch and the life that man- GYRE four prevailing ocean currents: the ages to cling to it Plastic Soup feature North Pacific Current to the north, A gyre is any range of large-scale the California Current to the east, colored plastic fragments in their bellies. wind, swirling vortex and ocean the North Equatorial Current to the in June of this year, Moore set out for yet currents. Gyres are caused by the south and the Kuroshio Current to another trip to the Garbage Patch to study Coriolis effect, planetary vorticity, the west. An accumulation of man- the ever growing volume of plastic collect- and friction, which establish circula- made debris, known as the “Great ing in the gyre. Follow the Alguita by going tion patterns from the wind curl. Pacific Garbage Patch” is collect- to, http://ovralguita.blogspot.com As the water flows in the oceans, it ing in this gyre. carries heat from ocean to ocean • Indian Ocean Subtropical Gyre Scope of the problem and from the equator to the poles. • South Atlantic Subtropical Gyre The potential scope of the problem is great- Variations in the transfer of heat that contains the Brazil Current sys- er than entanglement and ingestion. It has lead to variations in weather pat- tem been discovered, by Japanese research- terns. • South Pacific Subtropical Gyre ers, that the floating plastic fragments are that contains the East Australian sponges for DDT and PCB’s and other oily The earth’s major gyres: Current system pollutants. These plastic fragments are then • North Atlantic Subtropical Gyre • North Pacific Subpolar Gyre that ingested by jellies and salps living in the that includes the Gulf Stream, contains the Alaska Gyre ocean and in turn are eaten by fish and so Labrador Current, East Greenland Current, North Atlantic current, and The North Pacific Subtropical Gyre nsf the North Atlantic Equatorial current is made up of two large masses of they had located pieces of the plane, but that contains the Sargasso Sea ever-accumulating rubbish, known on closer examination it was found to be • North Pacific Subpolar Gyre as the Western and Eastern Pacific nothing more than rubbish. Ebbesmeyer, • North Pacific Subtropical Gyre, Garbage Patches. It is in this gyre, a quoted in a CNN report said, “That area also know as the North Pacific huge swirling mass of plastic soup, [the crash site] has got lots of debris that’s Gyre—this gyre covers most of the estimated by some to be the size

nsf just out there, coming from Europe head- northern Pacific Ocean, located of the United States that the plastic ing over to the America’s.” The search for between the equator and 50˚N bag or plastic water bottle, thought remains of the plane highlights what envi- latitude and covers approximately to be in a landfill or recycled, may • a drum of hazardous chemicals ronmentalist claim is one of the most press- 10 million square miles (34 million end up. ■ • an inflated volleyball ing issues for the world today, plastic pollu- km²). The gyre has a clockwise cir- • a plastic coat hangar with swivel hook tion. cular pattern and is made up of SOURCE: Wikipedia • a cathode-ray tube for a 19 inch televi- it is estimated that between 500 billion nsf sion and 1 trillion plastic bags are used world- • an inflated tire mounted on a steel rim wide each year and the number of plastic • numerous glass and plastic fishing floats the poisons pass into the food web, which bottles, used each year, number in the tril- • plastic bottles leads, in some cases, to humans. lions. Plastic bags can take as long at 1000 • tangles of nets, lines, hawsers mostly A recently published article in the years to biodegrade; plastic bottles even made from polypropylene Christian Science Monitor shows that plastic longer. One scientist reports that these fig- has been collecting in the Atlantic gyre as ures are only estimates because no one will in 2001, Moore published his 1998 find- well, this according to an ongoing study by live long enough to find out. ings in the Marine Pollution Bulletin. From Dr Kara Lavender Law at the Sea Education Now, when you dispose of a plastic bag the collection and analysis of debris, it was Association in Woods Hole, Massachusetts, or plastic drink bottle consider its life-cycle; estimated that there was six-pounds (13.2 USA. Law said that analysis of the plastics regardless of whether it goes to a landfill, to kg) of plastic floating in the North Pacific picked up by SEA’s research shows much a recycling center or makes its way into the Subtropical Gyre for every pound of natu- of it comes from consumer items made of ocean it will never naturally biodegrade in rally occurring zooplankton. polyethylene and polypropylene, which our lifetime. in 2008, the same 1998 study was replicat- include items used in our common everyday ed and Moore found the ratio of plastic to life. Out at sea, these plastics suffocate sea For additional information, Google: ocean zooplankton had doubled in nine years. turtles and choke sea birds which mistake gyres garbage. Look for forthcoming arti- In subsequent trips, photographers have the floating debris for food. cles dealing with the plague of plastic in captured underwater images of jellyfish During the first week of the search for our oceans: The effects of plastic ingestion hopelessly entangled in frayed lines and the remains of the Air France plane, off the by marine animals, and Algalita Marine transparent filter feeding organisms with coast of Brazil, investigators thought that Research Foundation. ■ Location of the North Pacific Gyre on global map 90 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Close-up portrait LEAFY SEA DRAGON, Phycodurus eques, is an endangered, and thus, protected of an adult Leafy marine fish related to the seahorse and the pipefish. Slightly larger than most sea hors- Sea Dragon es, they grow to about 30cm and are found around southern and western Australia photo & on clumps of sand in waters up to 50 meters deep, feeding on plankton and small crustaceans. The long leaf-like protrusions sprouting out from all over its body gives it its name. However, these are not used for propulsion but serve as camouflage. video An almost transparent pectoral fin and a dorsal fin help propel the creature, which mostly hangs very still in the water like floating seaweed. The male cares for up to 250 fertilized eggs (deposited on his back by the female) for nine weeks until they hatch. — source: Wikipedia.com Edited by Peter Symes & Scott Bennett

MacroThe thought behind the image Over the coming months, I hope that this series of articles will take you to and show you this event I am going to take some of help some of you, the readers, with whilst it is happening. any questions you have regard- over the years, I had always the more significant under- ing what I have to say. Please do gone to Kangaroo Island with Jim water images I have taken not hesitate to contact me through Thistleton a dive operator with the during my career, which in X-RAY MAG with your inquiries. reputation of being able to find the one way or another were the first situation I will be discuss- rare and elusive Leafy Sea Dragon. ing is probably so far, the highlight of The first time I went with him he either unique or rare images my career, being the most satisfying told me that he was going to take or taken under difficult and and rewarding. The birth of a Leafy me three miles down this rugged demanding conditions. From Sea Dragon in South Australia. Southern Ocean coast and put me these images I will explain it was in February 2002, I had been on a juvenile Leafy Sea Dragon no travelling to Kangaroo Island for more than two inches in length—this, with the learning curve of my some years, and initially my photo- he did. success’s and failures, how I graphs were for articles in both Dive So, it was on 8 February 2002. By conditioned both myself and and Nature magazines. Which led to now, I was carrying two housings a number of group trips in the latter with me on each dive, both Sea & equipment to optimise the years. At this time, my learning curve Sea with Nikon F90x’s—one set up for chances of success and how was very steep. After a number of wide angle with a Nikon 17-35 zoom this then started to pay divi- costly trips early in my career, I had lense and twin YS120 flash guns. The dends. I have to say most come to believe in the three R’s: “Be other with a Nikon 105 lense with in the right place at the right time X4 Nikon close up lenses attached of the the situations I will be with the right people”—and then and an Inon ring flash. Some people talking about were taken on you wait for nature to either play the questioned me as to why I burdened film some years ago. But my game or not. myself down with so much cumber- opinion is that we are talking obviously, some events are sea- some equipment. But to me, it was sonal, so if you are going after a about being ready for any eventual- about Photography where specific event, make sure that you ity; this day was to prove this theory many of the rules regard- research both when and where absolutely correct. ing the medium that these this event will be at its peak. Most Upon entering the water, I always importantly, once you have this drop to my working depth, settle photographs were taken on information, then you must find the myself and set up each camera so remain the same. right people with the experience to that they are ready for what I call a

Text and photos by Tony White 91 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED A papa Leafy Sea Dragon carries photo & eggs on his back. One egg is just video about to hatch and a baby Leafy silver will be born. (Read the story of the birth on the next page) reflex shot, should it arise. Apertures, image to the best ability of myself shutter speed, flash angles, etc, etc, and equipment. only then will I start looking for spe- time for me was passing in slow cific subjects. This day, I choose wide motion as I slowly clicked away, after- angle and started to photograph a wards one of the group said, from mature male with eggs on his tail on start to finish, the event only lasted a backdrop of stunning cold water five minutes. The images will never corals. win any prizes for their stunning com- i felt a touch on my shoulder; my position exposure or dynamism. But dive guide was beckoning me over with discipline and having the right to where the rest of the group were equipment at hand, they do exist (It is watching something intently of which worth mentioning that the rest of the as yet I could not see. On arriving, my group had opted for wide angle to head went into a spin; there was a photograph the mature males!). mature male again with eggs on his During these five minutes, I tail, the difference being that one of obtained photographs of the birth, the eggs had started to hatch. the baby free swimming, and finally with my wide angle, a perspective Self control of a divers hand under the baby to The first thing I have to say is that no give a true impression of the size. The matter how urgent the need to start images, over the years, have been taking photographs here, self disci- published all over the world and are pline has to take over. I knew instantly still to my knowledge the only still that within seconds the baby could images taken of this event in the wild. cinema of dreams detach itself from the egg casing and The story being told from start to finish disappear, but it was no good blaz- by the images themselves. ing away on such a small delicate Without the three R’s and the dis- creature and losing the shot because cipline of constantly doing the same it was too small or out of focus. So for things over and over, these images a few short seconds, I settled myself would not have been taken. I have with deep breathing and collected also attached a small article below my thoughts on the important steps I that was written at the time, which I must take. hope conveys the importance of the this creature was so small that with moment. Please enjoy it and possibly my setup, I had to lock the focus so reflect on your own system of under- that image size was at its maximum. water photography, its setup, and the In other words, I took over manu- discipline with which you use it. ally, focusing by moving my head and housing back and forwards. Tony White is a full time underwater Maximum aperture and appropri- photographer living in South Africa. www.seacam.com ate shutter speed were already set He runs underwater photographic as was the ring flash on auto. So, all tours and workshops worldwide. I had to do now was provide abso- For further information go to www. lute concentration on capturing the seaofdreams.co.uk ■

92 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Text and photos by Tony White photo & video Birth of a Sea Dragon Kangaroo Island is Australia’s third motion, as I started to experience largest island. Some 150 miles long, it one of the rarest moments of my is made up primarily of farming com- life. Lazily swimming along the reef munities, and over two-thirds of it wall was another male carrying has been designated national parks. eggs with the significant difference Situated off the coast of Southern that one of the eggs had begun Australia, about twenty miles south of to hatch from the egg casing. The Adelaide, lies the home of the Leafy head of new born leafy, no more Sea Dragon, one of the world’s most than 1/8th of an inch in length striking underwater creatures, and the was emerging. Micky, acknowledging ence has only now started to emerge. official conservation symbol of South the importance of the moment, had Jim Thistleton in his ten years of con- Australia. Endemic to the more tem- assumed an almost prayer like position stantly diving with these creatures on perate waters of the Southern Ocean, overlooking this spectacle. Over the a daily basis has only witnessed this this delicate creature continually draws next five minutes, which seemed like event three times. These still images me back to these pristine waters on a an eon, I managed to acquire unique are thought to be the first of their kind regular basis to gaze in awe at one of images of this tiny creature’s struggle photographed in the wild, and for two nature’s underwater wonders. for life. Finally, when he had emerged people in this world, they have unique So, it was on the morning of the 8 and detached from the egg, he was images and experiences to carry for February 2002, we sat in a small bay no more than half an inch in total the rest of their lives. ■ overshadowed by the rugged cliffs length, with all his markings of this majestic island onboard Wind in place that he would Cheetah, Jim Thistleton’s dive catama- carry through his future ran of Kangaroo Island Diving Safaris. life. Jim is the acknowledged expert on i expected him to be these creatures and has been track- at the mercy of the cur- ing the local population for the last ten rents, but it was not so. I years. When Jim says there is a leafy witnessed this tiny crea- under the boat, that is exactly where ture freely swimming and Our it is. in control of where he was on arriving the previous week, I going. Although I had by motive: had been overjoyed when Jim had now finished all the film in informed me that because of the bad the camera, Micky and I Your summer, some of the male leafies were stayed for as long as our still carrying eggs—an event which in air allowed witnessing for passion normal summers should now have us a rare moment in time. been over. With this in mind, I Reluctantly, we left entered the water to photograph him to his fate, despite THIS PAGE: Witnessing these stunning creatures. the odds being stacked the birth of a tiny Leafy i encountered an egg carrying against him with a survival Sea dragon is magical male at approximately 12 metres rate at about 1,000 to 1 and a very rare event and went about the usual rou- against. To this day, I con- to observe in the wild. tine of angles, flash settings, etc, stantly wonder and hope W | www.subal.com COUNTERCLOCKWISE when Micky, my dive guide came that he has managed to FROM BOTTOM RIGHT: Actual birth from an egg; over to me and with her fingers survive, and somewhere in New born swimming freely; indicated towards what I thought that vicinity, he is continu- New born fully emerged was a juvenile Leafy that she had ing to thrive and grow into from egg on papa’s back; just found. I followed her to a the magnificent creature, New born freely swimming position further up the reef wall. which I admire so much. over diver’s palm shows What I saw sent life into slow the rarity of this experi- the relative tiny size of it 93 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED photo & Protect SEALUX HD520 video those housing precious for the Sony HDR-XR520VE and HDR- files with XR500VE A-Data Now the Sony HDR-XR520 / HDR-XR500 camcorders offering outstanding picture quality, especially in lowlight mode, can How does the sound fully prove their capabilities even under Ikelite housing of a 640GB dunkable water. Perfect, brilliant video recordings hard drive grab in HDV DV quality both in the 16:9 and for Sony’s HDR- you? Although you 4:3 formats, and high-definition photos of can’t take it diving, up to 12.2 megapixels are possible. The the rubber-wraped SEALUX HD520 UW housing is small, light CX100 A-Data SH93 external drive comes with a wraparound USB cord that and designed for optimal grip operation. The molded clear polycarbonate can remain up to one metre underwater for 30 minutes with no ill The maintenance-free electronic 10-key construction provides full view of the effects. Just the ticket for beverage-related disasters while uploading control makes operation even easier. camcorder, control functions, and files! Availabe in capacities of 250GB, 320GB, 500GB and 640GB. Now, for the first time, it is possible to is rated to depths of 60 meters. The Prices to be announced. www.adata-group.com operate all camcorder functions (such large viewing screen can be seen as WHT, aperture and shutter time, focus, easily through the housing back, although menu functions accessed through the camera’s LCD touch screen are not accessible in this instal- lation. The base removes instantly with a unique toggle clamp for traveling or attachment of the optional Pro Video Lite 3 battery pack. The housing accom- modates Sony NP-FH50 and NP-FH100 batteries. www.ikelite.com

zoom and many others) using the electronic touch screen control. the close-up lens which can be swivelled down under water and the colour correction filter (URPRO filter) extend the range of use of the HD520 housing. Optimal monitor viewing without a mirror and the effective ambient light shielding system make taking and viewing shots a real pleasure even during your dive. Amphibico XDAmphibicam Available as extras are a zoomable wide- The newest member of Amphibico’s Amphibicam family of angle converter lens and a fisheye converter underwater professional housings is the XDAmphibicam X3 for lens with an extremely wide shooting angle of the Sony PMWEX3. The compact housing boasts full access of the around 145 degrees. To name an additional Sony PMW-EX3 camcorder controls with all the important fea- highlight, you can use High Grade Wide- tures such as White Balance, ND Filter, Gain, Shutter Speed, Iris, Angle lenses made by Fathom offering Zoom, and Manual Focus are all at your fingertips. Some might outstanding picture quality. Further extras call it the little brother of the HD Amphibicam with matching features, except it is better suited for travel with its compact size. such as the powerful SEALUX lighting system www.amphibico.com and an ultra-light transport case cater for all you could wish for.

94 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Jude Cowell

PORTFOLIO

95 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio PREVIOUS PAGE: Breaksea cod, Epinephelides armatus, Geographe Bay by Jude Cowell. Prisma pencil on paper

Text edited by Gunild Symes All images courtesy of Jude Cowell Welcome to the dreamy underwater world of American artist, Jude Cowell, who creates fan- tastic botanically drawn fish portraits to inspire the imagination. Her blending of “the real with the vision- ary” results in artwork that immediately takes one to the magical deep. Just eyeing one of these vel- vety beauties, one can almost feel the current brushing through one’s hair. X-RAY MAG’s Gunild Symes caught up with the artist to gain insight into her Dreamyfish Art portraits. Ornate butterfish, Pentapodus porosus, Exmouth Gulf by Jude Cowell. Pencil on paper

GS: Welcome. Tell us about yourself GS: Describe your Dreamyfish Art of beautifully hued tropical fish were and where you are from. portrait series for us and how it came often taken at such depths that their about. backgrounds were lackluster blacks or JC: Thank you, it’s an honor to join browns. So, why not combine the real you for X-RAY MAG! JC: Portraits are rendered as botani- with the visionary and brighten the lit- i am an American artist and a cally accurate as possible and are tle fellows’ spirits? Thus, were created native of Athens, Georgia, where then set within colorful fantasy scenes my first Dreamyfish Art portraits. I currently reside in a nearby rural of their grandest imaginings. This Since the mid-1990s, I have drawn county within the sound of a river’s allows the viewer a ‘sneak peek’ into primarily on black paper, which I waterfall. A lifelong pencil and pen- a fish’s most private dream, for after think gives depth and a spiritual flavor and-ink artist, my current focus is on all, fish dream, too. to images. Thereby certain special colored pencil portraits under the the concept first occurred to me in effects are achieved, which can- imprint Dreamyfish Art. 2003 when I noticed that photographs not appear when drawing on white Western Blue Devil, Paraplesiops meleagris (Peters), Recherche Archipelago by Jude Cowell. Pencil on paper 96 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio Jude Cowell

Magpie morwong, Cheilodactylus nigripes (Richardson), New South Wales by Jude Cowell. Prisma pencil on paper

paper. JC: Prismacolor oil and Rexel X-RAY MAG: Who are your role When two of my drawings were Derwent watercolour pencils (dry) models or mentors and how have accepted in a city exhibition dur- are my preferred medium, and they influenced your work and ing the 1996 Summer Olympics in the blacker and smoother the your artistic vision? Atlanta, I was proud to represent paper, the better the effect. Georgia to the world, and one Drawing’s traditional cross- JC: My most influential role of my cosmically themed entries hatching and layering techniques model and art mentor has to Timeless Path received a merit are methods of choice, and be an amazing photographer award. colors are mixed on-paper as and Art Professor, Dr Robert Nix beginning in the 1990s my works drawings proceed. No preliminary of the University of Georgia Art have been exhibited several sketches are done because not Department. Actually, his instruc- times in Athens, Augusta, and all fish images translate well onto tions in drawing, painting, jewelry Atlanta, Georgia, but since 2005, black paper and not all photos design and sculpture, along with my focus has narrowed toward have enough detail for me to two years of work on our school online galleries and portfolios. work from. It’s being able to tell yearbook staff, occurred pre-col- the difference that makes prelims lege. And thanks to my courses GS: What is your medium and unnecessary with the result that in journalism, I was privileged to method of choice and why did each of my fish portraits are one- work as cartoonist for our school you choose to use these? of-a-kind. newspaper. Western footballer, Neatypus obliquus (Waite), Geographe Bay by Jude Cowell. Prisma pencil on paper 97 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Bengal sergeant, Abudefduf Jude Cowell portfolio bengalensis (Bloch), Houtman Abrolhos by Jude Cowell Prisma pencil on paper

Pale sweetlips, Plectorhynchus pictus (Thunberg), North West Cape by Jude Cowell. Prisma pencil on paper

My college level training was taken right at home. GS: Have you been to the underwater at Atlanta College of Art on Peachtree So, if I have a coherent artistic vision, realm yourself? Are you a scuba diver? Street (High Museum), where I studied it would be my blending of the real with What are your favorite locations? Fashion Illustration, Layout, and Design the visionary, which hopefully creates with Bill Johnson. My acceptance there something unique: botanically drawn fish JC: My practiced ability to shut out hinged on what was primarily a pen-and- with personality and verve! the world and cavort underwater with ink fashion design portfolio. other botanical and imaginary blend- Breaksea cods and Western blue devils Strongest art influences include ings are typical themes as well and are (in my mind) may be as close to scuba Cezanne, Manet, Renoir, Degas, and the visible in my Cosmic, Flower, Fairy, and diving as I can now come, due to an jungles of Rousseau. Pissarro’s The Red Children’s illustrations and designs. unfortunate airplane experience a few Roofs still packs a visual wallop with me. A natural visionary ability inspires my years ago, which ruined my previous love Yet, a most telling and unconsciously artwork, and sitting down at my draft- of flying. absorbed influence came during child- ing table with its magnifying lens, a And so, this armchair traveller happily hood in the form of the dancing fishes in large batch of freshly sharpened pen- swims with the fishes of Western Australia the Disney film, Fantasia. Later on, when cils, a blank sheet of paper, and a well- (vicariously). Perhaps portraying them Pixar’s Finding Nemo premiered, I was detailed photo of a tropical fish always is part of the way I’ve dealt with the thrilled with its brilliant undersea colors results in fresh artwork. squelching of my wanderlust and an and forms—in fact, you might say I felt early love of coastal regions.

98 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED portfolio Jude Cowell

Victorian scalyfin, Parma victoriae (Guenther), Recherche Archipelago by Jude Cowell. Prisma pencil on paper

from childhood, I have visited marine debris to be transformed JC: Well, can the left brain survive beaches and islands of Georgia, into clean, renewable energy. without the right? Their balanced Florida, South and North Carolina, And with Save Our Oceans! integration makes for a whole and with the most recent trip a family —a constant refrain in my online healthier psyche, as my astrologi- visit to beautiful Topsail Island off Dreamyfish Art Gallery—I have cal studies have informed me. North Carolina in May 2009. touted the global Cleanup And in our exhaustively tech-in- project’s amazing work upon this fused and information-overloaded GS: What are your thoughts on critical problem, and plan to con- times, everyone may benefit from ocean conservation and what role tinue doing my small part when- a refreshing Art Break now and do you, as an artist, and your art- ever possible to raise the visibility of then, perhaps by way of a mean- work play in local or global efforts? this worthy endeavor. der through an online gallery, Locally, my primary involvement perusal of an artist’s blog, or by JC: As I make notes for this inter- is an annual mental health benefit browsing a web-based storefront’s view on Saturday, September 19, where Art is much appreciated offerings and placing an order to 2009, the 24th annual International and sells well for the cause. support the Arts. Coastal Cleanup is being held with And even if eye and brain volunteers across the globe col- GS: So, does Art matter and can it refreshment were Art’s only func- lecting, cataloguing and indexing help the world? tion, it would be worthwhile to Brown-spotted wrasse, Pseudolabrus parilus (Richardson) Rottnest Island by Jude Cowell. Prisma pencil on paper 99 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Bicolor scalyfin, Parma bicolor (Allen & Larson), Recherche Archipelago by portfolio Jude Cowell Prisma pencil on paper Jude Cowell IN OUR NEXT ISSUE Wreck Diving JC: Current — Save Our Oceans! Lulu Downloads Arctic Ice Diving availabil- stores.lulu.com/judecowell ity of my fish For more information or to purchase orig- Zazzle Shop Holiday Treats portraits inal and prints directly, please contact www.zazzle.com/judecowell includes a Lulu the artist at: [email protected] or Dreamyfish Art Storefront for visit Jude Cowell’s webpages at: dreamyfishart.blogspot.com ■ Art Downloads at modest prices, which are suitable for use as screen- savers and for self-printing. At this very moment,

Breaksea cod andrea ferrari and Western blue devil cor- dially await your visit there. Now under construc- tion is a Cafe Press shop, Jude Cowell Art, where frame-able 16 x 20 inch andrea ferrari Dreamyfish wall posters will be offered in the US$20 to $40 range, with more images pursue and enjoy. But on a collective and products added as time permits. level, the universal and archetypal sym- Plus, a Dreamyfish Art Calendar is in the bols, which Art subliminally and overtly planning stages for 2010, and a reputa- bestows, have the power to transform ble giclée printer is being sought. our minds and hearts more viscerally private commissions are accepted than mere words ever could. subject to photo availability and art- for these reasons, I believe that ist approval of the suitability of the

humankind without Art is like a proposed photograph of the subject. wolfgang pölzer Dreamyfish denizen without a visionary Commission prices begin at US$300 and dream! artist’s use of digital images is retained. thank you again for this wonderful GS: Where can people find your current opportunity to speak with you and share COMING IN DECEMBER works and what are your plans for future my lovingly created fish portraits with the Subscribe now FREE! projects? Do you do commissions? readers of X-RAY MAG. www.xray-mag.com Yellow-eye surgeonfish, Ctenochaetus strigosus, by Jude Cowell. Prisma pencil on paper 100 X-RAY MAG : 32 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED