sign in sign up
<<
Home , Indian Army, Panchtarni, Shankaracharya temple

Amarnath Yatra

Yatris entering the shrine

Text: Shyamola Khanna

t was the month of July and I was standing on the threshold, gazing at the deity of Shri Amarnathji inside the cave at 14,000 ft, cold, wet and not a little Finding bewildered.I And then the chants of “Har Har Mahadev!” rang out! I looked back and saw the band of worshippers calling out to their Lord, saffron bands around their heads and dressed in the barest Crowdsmy in front faith minimum, a loin cloth and another orange of the shrine bit draped around their shoulders – men, women and young adolescents all calling out with the same fervor! The ambient temperature would have been between five and six degrees centigrade and yet these people were not cold! So is this what the burning fire of faith was all about? While I watched, I also noticed that the people were generally in the age group of fifty and sixty. There were younger ones and definitely even older ones too—they

8 Miles to go before they sleep A lone sadhu trudges on were the ones who were clad in loads of again. By the time March comes around seeps back into the mountains and flows woolens, shawls, sweaters, caps and woolen and the first nargis (daffodil) starts out in places through the mountainside. socks (probably a couple of pairs!), in the flowering through the snow blankets, then Some of this water flows into Amarnath vanyaprastha or sanyas stages of life. you can start stepping out again. Slowly, the cave and over a period of two to three poppies and irises start to flower and entire weeks, forms an ice mound in the cave, due The Cave hillsides become covered in , yellow and to the freezing of water drops that fall from When winter sets in the and blue. This is also the time when the snows the roof of the cave on to the cold floor and valley, it brings with it a sense begin to melt in the upper reaches of the then grows up vertically from the cave floor. of peace and calm. All the pathways are . The melting waters feed the This is the icy , the holiest of holies, covered in snow and people stay indoors, innumerable rivers and streams emanating that thousands come from all over awaiting the thaw so that life can begin from the peaks. A lot of this melting water and the world to worship. To a disbeliever,

People travelling by foot, horseback and palki to the shrine

9 Campsite on yatra route with Chilling with holy smoke a stream running through it

Forty winks

A holy dip in the ice-cold water at the sangam

it is like any other stalagmite but to the believer, it is a manifestation of Shiva, the lovable God, the most easily pleased of the holy trinity of gods. Two other icy pillars represent Parvati and Shiva’s son, Ganesha and it is where Shiva explained the secret of life and eternity to his divine consort, Parvati. This miraculous yearly phenomenon Palki-bearers taking a break at Amarnath cave has made it a place of worship since time immemorial. There are references to the legendary king Aryaraja (300 BCE) who used to worship a lingam formed of ice in Kashmir. The book refers to Amareshwara or Amarnath. It is believed that Queen Suryamathi in the 11th century AD gifted trishuls, banalingas and other sacred emblems to this temple. Rajavalipataka, begun by Prjayabhatta, has detailed references to the pilgrimage to Amarnath Cave. One legend says Kashmir was submerged under water until the middle ages and people forgot about Amarnath until Kashyapa Muni drained it through

10 Helping hand

Last darshan

Leaning on each other

Soldiering on

A hovers over the yatris

a series of rivers and rivulets, after which, Bhrigu Muni was the first to have Darshan of Lord Amarnath and soon people began worshipping it again as Bholenath. By end June / early July the lingam is ready and the massive administrative machinery begins its operations to ensure that the yatra goes off without any hitch for the millions of devotees on their arduous trip to the holy Amarnath cave. That the trip is challenging is accepted fact. The ongoing terrorist activities in the valley for almost two decades have added

Helipad and campsite at 11 Sadhu selling rudraksh beads

Crawling to meet his Lord

Sadhu’s open-air tent

Crippled legs no hindrance to devotion

an element of fear to the backbreaking trip. pilgrims, they are quite blithe about it. “I shall attain moksha if I die at the feet One never knows when a sniper will take a of Lord Shiva. I am not afraid at all.” She potshot, whether the next bend in the road faith that moves mountains was not the only one. Seventy something will be the last. Not that it worries any of the Meena Ganguly, in her late fifties, says, Bhanwari from Baghpat was quite at peace with herself. She admitted that she Long queue at had lived her life and if she were to die, she the entrance would be very relieved, as she had nothing more to look forward to. ‘Phir idhar maut hui toh swarag toh mil hi jayega’ (If I die here, I shall certainly go to heaven). Like all pilgrims in India, there are many who have promised to make the trip because of a prayer fulfilled—a son/ grandson born into the fold, the acquisition of certain wealth or prosperity, a son or daughter married and settled well, etc. Kalpana ben who had come all the way from in Gujarat, was one such who had changed at least three trains to get to the place and this last lap on the pony was hurting her knees. Yet she trundled up the last steps in the cold drizzle and waited for the darshan. She kept repeating ‘har har mahadev’ with every breath. In a rasping undertone, she told me she had come to Pilgrims registering 12 for the yatra Climbing the icy trail Pilgrims negotiating a steep bend

The keeps relentless vigil

Man heating water barrel near campsite fulfill a ‘mannat’. , while the Kargil was on in the far east, from Jamnagar on the Gujarat Then there are those who hope their full swing, not too far away. My husband coast to the villages of Eastern UP not to wish will be granted by Lord Shiva once was responsible for the air operations and mention Indians and foreigners from across they have come to his temple. Shoma, a I spent my time watching the stars under a the world. What was it about the shrine young woman in her thirties had lost two clear blue night sky while the blackout was that brought on this vast outpouring of infants within the first year of their birth. enforced, waiting for my husband’s return. people? What generated this faith? How She had come walking the entire 14 km On the top of my wish list, before leaving come people did not mind the discomfort, length of the Baltal route, hoping that Lord the beleaguered valley, was the fervent the pain and hardship, the cold and the rain Shiva would grant her wish for a healthy desire to visit the Amarnath shrine. Not besides the imminent possibility of attack child. This is the kind of faith that moves because I am a devout Hindu, but I did by militants? mountains. It is the essence of – want to see for myself what it was that that God, whatever his form, will take care brought people out from as far away as The chopper service of all our problems. With the same faith, and Mudumalai in the south to I went in a helicopter with a wannabe I had stayed on at the Air Force Station, villages of Assam and from MLA and his wife and the wife of a senior

Morning ablutions A nap on the roadside

13 Shiva devotee with his

Breaking dawn Selling saffron and shilajeet

police officer posted in the valley. The going through their morning ablutions and down was being monitored very strictly. chopper gave us a fantastic view of the getting ready to return to Srinagar while The puja was performed and we were given mountains and then I saw the meandering fresh batches were coming up the hillsides. the prasad. I knew that it was the last time trail of the pilgrims, crawling along the No noise, no clamoring, just a peaceful that I was ever going to be there—for me Baltal route. The chopper landed at the morning at India’s holiest shrine. ‘Darshan’ this pilgrimage was very meaningful and I base of the cave, at a height of 12,756 ft, and done, ‘aarti’ enjoyed, ‘prasad’ collected, did want to linger for a while. we got out of our Perspex flying machine, time to return to the everyday and the Then I found one of the pundits pointing surrounded by snowy peaks on all sides. I mundane—enough punya to live out the to a white dove which was sitting in a saw this huge embankment of yellow and rest of one’s life! niche, high up on the roof of the cave. He blue tents—there must have been at least We walked up to the platform where the said that the other one, its partner, should 200 of them, close together. People were number of people going up and coming also be there—white doves at 14,000 ft?

A memorable Time to rest character

Grandma with grandchild Sadhus lead the way

14 Climbing up to the base camp

Bhandara at Amarnath

My skeptical mind gave up questioning happening. They may be right, but at the what faith was showing me. According same time, they may not be aware that to the pundit, the two white doves were a it would not happen without the help of manifestation of Shiva and Parvati and they – not so much in terms of money had been there for millennia. If your faith but in terms of physical presence and was strong enough, you could see both of moral support to the weary yatris. them. Many disbelievers did not see any Many may not be aware that the family at all while some saw only one. I knew my that is entrusted with the opening of the faith was strong because I saw both of them. caves is a Muslim family. They have been I bowed my head in veneration and then doing this for generations. It is said that touched my head on the icy platform— when the Shanakaracharya found the cave, rejuvenated and strong, ready to take on the the guide who led him to it was a Muslim long haul back to the Airbase. Quietly and shepherd. The man and his family were to myself I said, “Har Har Mahadev.’ Two then given this onerous job of opening the days later, we were saying our final good- cave, year after year. byes to the beautiful . Many may not be aware that the boys Fundamentalists would like us to believe who take your ponies up the Baltal route Resting near a roadside dhaba that the Amarnath Yatra is a very Hindu are Muslim boys. The boys selling flowers

Sea of horses at Chandanwadi

15 Sore feet

Locals collecting water for pilgrims

Rocky climb to salvation Cigarette break

and coconuts near the entrance are also Muslim. At this height and in the midst of so much of surging faith and adoration, the oneness of the Almighty comes centrestage and all the petty religious differences are forgotten. Or is it that we all walk together Rushing waters below the yatra trail in our everyday lives and it only takes an outsider to inflame passions and cause carnage and among various religious believers? Two years later, I met Shoma, the young woman at Amarnath who had lost both her babies in their first year and she

Checking for dangers enroute

16 The mountains tower over the pilgrims A priest offers prayers

Men and horses jostle on the narrow track

A pilgrim pays homage

declared gleefully that her wish had been granted. She had given birth to a baby girl and the crucial first year had passed without incident. The doctors had cleared the child of any problems and she was a bonny little doll. As for my own belief, I know that I believe in the greatness of the Hindu philosophy. My faith gives me the courage to accept everyone else’s faith and treat it with respect. Having travelled the length and breadth of the country, I cannot deny that whenever I think of the mountains in Jammu and Kashmir, I think of Amarnathji. Would I ever go back? Maybe. When the time is right. The 2015 Yatra began on 2nd July, on Purshotam Purnima, and ends on August 29, Shravan Purnima, (Raksha Bandhan).

Keeping an eagle eye on the travellers Soldiers are always on standby

17 The scenic route near Army post near the shrine

in a tented camp, where refreshing drinks are handed out to arriving pilgrims. Route to immortality Chandanwadi is at an altitude of 9,500 ft f you are looking for a trek in Kashmir hidden cave, the holy shrine of Amarnath, or 2895 meters. A sea of horses surround and it is the season of the Amarnath where he narrated the secret of immortality you. They wait patiently as their owners go yatra, it would be a great opportunity to to his wife Parvati. fishing for passengers with chants of “Bolo, combine the two and get there on foot. The northern route of the yatra is along ghoda?” – ‘Want a horse?’ in your ears. IEspecially at full moon, when hundreds of the Amarnath valley where one can see the Pissu Top: This high peak along the thousands of trekkers and pilgrims venerate river Amaravathy, which originates from route is 3 Km from Chandanwadi and is the the Armanath ice lingam. But be warned, Amarnath Glacier. Pilgrims travelling on site of a legendary battle between the Devas it is not for the weak, or the feeble-hearted. a Amarnath Yatra package can take either (Gods) and Rakshasas (Demons). This is the abode of Shiva, the creator and of 2 routes. Route 1 is Via and Sheshnag: The second overnight halt is destroyer, and his sanctuary is a reflection the distance is 362 Km. The halts are at at Sheshnag, a high mountain with seven of his awesome powers. Landslides, storms, Srinagar - (96 Km) - Pahalgam - (16 Km) - peaks, said to resemble the seven heads snow, incessant rain and flash floods, Chandanwari - (3 Km) - Pissu Top - (11Km) of a mythical snake. Sheshnag Peak is 11 biting cold, be ready for it all. After all, you - Sheshnag - (14Km) - Panchtarni - (6 Km) Km from Pissu Top and is 11730 ft or are retracing the path to immortality, the - Amarnath. 3352 meters high. There are often sub- journey of Shiva and Parvati. To keep his Srinagar: The summer capital of the zero temperatures and snowfall. The trek home secret from any eavesdroppers, Shiva state of Jammu and Kashmir, Srinagar is follows a scenic route and the landscape chose a safe place distant from any life. He, a beautiful town situated in the Kashmir with pine forests, mountain streams, hills however, had finally to give in to his wife’s Valley. A houseboat stay and a and valleys is truly breathtaking. The camp wish to know this secret. Enroute, he let ride on the picturesque , a visit overlooks the emerald waters of Sheshnag go of all his companions. His ride, Nandi to the scenic Mughal gardens and the Lake, which is fed by water from the the bull, he left at Pahalgam. The moon Shankaracharya Temple are attractions on glaciers further ahead. Yatris can bathe in he released from his hair at Chandanwari. offer in Srinagar after completing the yatra. its pristine water. Tents, called pandals, The snakes around his neck were freed at Pahalgam: Located 96 Km from warm water and electricity, are provided Sheshnag. The five basic elements, water, Srinagar, Pahalgam is a charming town on by friendly Kashmiri locals and also by fire, earth, air and sky he left behind at the banks of the Lidder River which sparkles devotee volunteers and organisations, who Panchatarini. His son Ganesh he left at bright and clear when the sun is out and the come from all over India and run food stalls Mahagunas Top. As a symbol of sacrificing air crisp, providing a clear view of Pissu Top. (bhandaras) throughout the yatra, serving the earthly world, Lord Shiva performed It is easily accessibly by road. Pahalgam is food from breakfast to dinner – all for free. the Tandava Dance. Till he finally reached a the last big town along the Amarnath Yatra You see many remarkable characters here, Route. Accommodation, porters, ponies and e.g. an able man crawling through most of A bus carrying pilgrims provisions for the trek can be acquired here. the journey and praying. During the Yatra, community kitchens and Panchtarni: Panchtarni is the last halt tented accommodation are provided by the on the Amarnath Yatra and is 14 Km from state. Sheshnag. The journey to Panchtarni is over Chandanwadi: A 16 Km long the Mahagunas Pass, which is 14000 ft or trail along the Lidder River leads to 4276 mt high. The greens of the previous Chandanwadi, a beautiful village with day gradually gives way to brown and views of the mountains. After setting out barren mountains. Here the army serves from Pahalgam, the first overnight stop you a welcome drink – warm water! The on the Amarnath Yatra is at Chandanwadi along with the Jammu and 18 A deluge of snow near the campsite

Kashmir state police does a remarkable job and deposit your luggage (bags or cameras yourselves at the tourist office in Srinagar of handling this mega logistical exercise. are not allowed inside the cave). They also before setting out on the yatra. Green and Controlling the huge untrained crowds provide hot water if one wants to bathe fresh is how the trek begins. The initial path of thousands of pilgrims in remote high before darshan. Or a bed for a short nap. is through a lively pine forest and waterfalls. mountains, especially in times of bad Since photography isn’t permitted inside the The river Lidder keeps you . While weather, is a dangerous job. After a small cave, this is the closest point you can capture there are steep ascents like Pissutop (on day descent you come to a five-star bhandara! pictures of the holy shrine from. 1) and Mahagunas Pass (on day 2), there Pilgrims can then descend to Panchtarni, It is often a stampede-like situation are leisurely strolls as well. Some walks are which is situated in a valley, and stay inside the cave. You see the legendary ice next to a valley, some through flat meadows. overnight in a tented camp in the meadow, shivlinga for a few seconds before you are You cross glaciers, often plough through from where you can see the helipad. A shepherded out of the cave. After praying snow and also wade through the freezing confluence of five rivers can be seen at at the Amarnath Cave, pilgrims can return river at one point. The biggest challenge are Panchtarni. Yatris usually rest overnight and to Panchtarni and stay overnight before the horses. They are in such large numbers, leave early morning for the shrine. beginning their return journey or also at times you have to wait for them to pass Amarnath: The sacred cave at Amarnath travel back to Sheshnag the same day. Or and for the narrow trail to clear before you is located 6 Km from Panchtarni. Pilgrims you can descend through the shorter route can move on. Savouring such magnificent leave at dawn and can have a ritual dip on via Baltal, though this scenery, near a deep landscapes with the with the smell and the way at the Sangam of the Panchtarni valley, is less spectacular than the ascent. thud of horse hooves around you is an and Amravati rivers. Pilgrims anoint their The yatra to Amarnath can also be done by unforgettable experience. Most people bodies with the white soil called Bhasam a helicopter ride from Baltal helipad at an use horses or palkis as these days, only the found near the cave and then enter the cave altitude of 3000 mts. A 3-day heli-package, sadhus walk all the way from Pahalgam, for the Darshan of the ice pillars worshipped with a helicopter ride from Baltal to the carrying all their worldly belongings on as Lord Shiva, Ma Parvati and Sri Ganesh. Panchtarni helipad, involves a final short their shoulders, trudging calmly on. Any If you are in the mood for shopping later, stretch via road where pilgrims are carried form of nicotine and alcohol is banned on a buzzing market around the actual cave in Palkis or on horseback to the shrine for the Amarnath yatra. Of course these rules area of Amarnath belies its height at almost the last 6 kms of the journey. Pilgrims can do not apply to the sadhus! Every once in a 13800 feet. Here you can buy everything travel from Baltal to the Amarnath Cave while, you see the sadhus take a break with from the “purest saffron” to a shilajeet – a and back to Srinagar on the same day. This their favourite smoke (we all know what substance loaded with medicinal value route to Amarnath is a steeper and narrower that is!). Sadhus being the exclusive source found specially in the high Himalayas. The route, and pilgrims have to walk cautiously of cigarettes on the Amarnath yatra, they are locals and sadhus have set up shops where while crossing ice bridges across mountain often mobbed post-dinner at the campsites. you can buy prasad and rudraksh malas streams. Pilgrims leave Baltal and travel While pilgrims wear layers of warm past the rest stops of Domail and woolens and appropriate trekking footwear, Reaping the rewards after a hard trek Barari to arrive at the Sangam most sadhus are dressed only in a shawl of the Panchtarni and Amravati and a dhoti, and are often barefoot! Most rivers and after their holy dip, pilgrims stay in simple albeit warm tents, proceed on to the cave. with mattresses and blankets. But this basic Trekkers can first acclimatise accommodation is too much of a luxury themselves in Chatpal and for sadhus who sleep in open air “sadhu to prepare for the yatra. shelters”! Fur-lined raingear is needed in You must get medical certificates this weather, as are hardy rubber shoes, from the government hospital plastic wraps, cold cream, and altitude in and register sickness and other required tablets.

19