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Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines
Chair of Urban Studies and Social Research Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism Bauhaus-University Weimar Fashion in the City and The City in Fashion: Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines Doctoral dissertation presented in fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor philosophiae (Dr. phil.) Maria Skivko 10.03.1986 Supervising committee: First Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Frank Eckardt, Bauhaus-University, Weimar Second Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Stephan Sonnenburg, Karlshochschule International University, Karlsruhe Thesis Defence: 22.01.2018 Contents Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................. 5 Thesis Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 6 Part I. Conceptual Approach for Studying Fashion and City: Theoretical Framework ........................ 16 Chapter 1. Fashion in the city ................................................................................................................ 16 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 16 1.1. Fashion concepts in the perspective ........................................................................................... 18 1.1.1. Imitation and differentiation ................................................................................................ 18 1.1.2. Identity -
The State of Fashion 2019 the State of Fashion 2019 the State of Fashion
The State of Fashion 2019 The State of Fashion 2019 The State of Fashion 2 The State of Fashion 2019 The State of Fashion 2019 Contents Executive Summary 10 Executive Summary Executive Industry Outlook 12 Global Economy 18—37 Trend 1: Caution Ahead 19 Executive Interview: Joann Cheng 22 Trend 2: Indian Ascent 24 Executive Interview: Darshan Mehta 28 Global Economy Trend 3: Trade 2.0 31 Global Value Chains in Apparel: The New China Effect 34 Consumer Shifts 38—69 Trend 4: End of Ownership 39 Executive Interview: Jennifer Hyman 42 Consumer Shifts Trend 5: Getting Woke 45 Executive Interview: Cédric Charbit 48 Trend 6: Now or Never 51 Executive Interview: Jeff Gennette 54 Digital Innovation Made Simple 58 Trend 7: Radical Transparency 60 Dealing with the Trust Deficit 62 Fashion System Fashion Fashion System 70—91 Trend 8: Self-Disrupt 71 The Explosion of Small 74 Trend 9: Digital Landgrab 77 Executive Interview: Nick Beighton 80 Trend 10: On Demand 83 Is Apparel Manufacturing Coming Home? 86 MGFI McKinsey Global Fashion Index 92—99 Glossary 100 End Notes and Detailed Infographics 102 The State of Fashion 2019 The State of Fashion Foreword The year ahead is one that will go down in history. Greater China will for the first time in centuries overtake the US as the world’s largest fashion market. It will be a year of awakening after the reckoning of 2018 — a time for looking at opportunities, not just challenges. In the US and in the luxury sector it will be a year of optimism; for Europe and for struggling segments such as the mid-market, optimism may be in short supply. -
ICOM Costume Newsletter 2014:1
ICOM Costume News 2014: 1 ICOM Costume News 2014: 1 01 June 2014 INTERNATIONAL COSTUME COMMITTEE COMITÉ INTERNATIONAL DU COSTUME Letter from the Chair Dear Colleagues, remembers Ingrid as a “curator of a superb collection of costume and shoes who was ever I am very much looking forward to our meeting in helpful in showing us all we wanted to study.” Ann Greece this coming September. It will be our third Coleman attended her first ICOM Costume meeting with friends and colleagues from the Committee meeting in Portugal in 1978 and she Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation and the remembers that she found herself “assigned to Hellenic Costume Society. What makes our room with Dr. Ingrid Bergman. While everyone in meetings so special and so informative is our the States knew that the other Ingrid Bergman had exploration of the objects in our care and the been long dead my friends insisted there could only exhibitions we mount to interpret and display them. be one Ingrid Bergman and I, the lucky one, had As museum professionals, as collectors of costume, landed the film icon as a roommate. So began my we know the unique qualities of each of our objects friendship with a very witty and intriguing colleague and how much these objects can tell us about their who took great pride in her work at the Nordiska moment of creation and use. While other fields Museum, especially her role in documenting the may focus on theory alone, we can discover how long range wardrobes of ordinary Swedes, and in theories apply (or do not apply) to the objects we her beloved country house noted for its special fish know and love. -
1455189355674.Pdf
THE STORYTeller’S THESAURUS FANTASY, HISTORY, AND HORROR JAMES M. WARD AND ANNE K. BROWN Cover by: Peter Bradley LEGAL PAGE: Every effort has been made not to make use of proprietary or copyrighted materi- al. Any mention of actual commercial products in this book does not constitute an endorsement. www.trolllord.com www.chenaultandgraypublishing.com Email:[email protected] Printed in U.S.A © 2013 Chenault & Gray Publishing, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Storyteller’s Thesaurus Trademark of Cheanult & Gray Publishing. All Rights Reserved. Chenault & Gray Publishing, Troll Lord Games logos are Trademark of Chenault & Gray Publishing. All Rights Reserved. TABLE OF CONTENTS THE STORYTeller’S THESAURUS 1 FANTASY, HISTORY, AND HORROR 1 JAMES M. WARD AND ANNE K. BROWN 1 INTRODUCTION 8 WHAT MAKES THIS BOOK DIFFERENT 8 THE STORYTeller’s RESPONSIBILITY: RESEARCH 9 WHAT THIS BOOK DOES NOT CONTAIN 9 A WHISPER OF ENCOURAGEMENT 10 CHAPTER 1: CHARACTER BUILDING 11 GENDER 11 AGE 11 PHYSICAL AttRIBUTES 11 SIZE AND BODY TYPE 11 FACIAL FEATURES 12 HAIR 13 SPECIES 13 PERSONALITY 14 PHOBIAS 15 OCCUPATIONS 17 ADVENTURERS 17 CIVILIANS 18 ORGANIZATIONS 21 CHAPTER 2: CLOTHING 22 STYLES OF DRESS 22 CLOTHING PIECES 22 CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION 24 CHAPTER 3: ARCHITECTURE AND PROPERTY 25 ARCHITECTURAL STYLES AND ELEMENTS 25 BUILDING MATERIALS 26 PROPERTY TYPES 26 SPECIALTY ANATOMY 29 CHAPTER 4: FURNISHINGS 30 CHAPTER 5: EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS 31 ADVENTurer’S GEAR 31 GENERAL EQUIPMENT AND TOOLS 31 2 THE STORYTeller’s Thesaurus KITCHEN EQUIPMENT 35 LINENS 36 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS -
UC Riverside Electronic Theses and Dissertations
UC Riverside UC Riverside Electronic Theses and Dissertations Title Warrior Spirit: From Invasion to Fusion Music in the Mapuche Territory of Southern Chile Permalink https://escholarship.org/uc/item/1xg8s85n Author Rekedal, Jacob Eric Publication Date 2015 Peer reviewed|Thesis/dissertation eScholarship.org Powered by the California Digital Library University of California UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA RIVERSIDE Warrior Spirit: From Invasion to Fusion Music in the Mapuche Territory of Southern Chile A Dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Music by Jacob Eric Rekedal March 2015 Dissertation Committee: Dr. Jonathan Ritter, Chairperson Dr. Deborah Wong Dr. René T.A. Lysloff Dr. Juliet McMullin Dr. Thomas C. Patterson Copyright by Jacob Eric Rekedal 2015 The Dissertation of Jacob Eric Rekedal is approved: Committee Chairperson University of California, Riverside ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Foremost, I thank God for the opportunity to do this kind of work. This dissertation bears my name, but it also bears the imprint of many generous individuals and several supporting institutions that made the project possible. A Humanities Graduate Student Research Grant from the University of California, Riverside financed a brief pilot research trip to southern Chile during 2008, as I finished my graduate coursework and prepared my dissertation proposal. From late 2009 until late 2010, I lived in Temuco and conducted fieldwork with a grant from the University of California Pacific Rim Research Program. Between March and December of 2011, I continued my fieldwork with a Fulbright IIE grant, including considerable local support from Fulbright’s staff in Chile. When I first arrived in Temuco for a two-week stay during September of 2008, Johanna Pérez of the non-profit organization Fundación Chol-Chol picked me up at the bus station, gave me a tour of the city and a home-cooked meal, and introduced me to the world of Mapuche artesanía. -
Final Thesis-Steinkopf-Frank.Docx
LA SAPE: TRACING THE HISTORY AND FUTURE OF THE CONGOS’ WELL-DRESSED MEN by HANNAH STEINKOPF-FRANK A THESIS Presented to the Department of International Studies and the Robert D. Clark Honors College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Bachelor of Arts or Science June, 2017 An Abstract of the Thesis of Hannah Steinkopf-Frank for the degree of Bachelor of Arts in the Department of International Studies to be taken June 2017 Title: La Sape: Tracing the History and Future of the Congos’ Well-dressed Men Approved: _ ____________________________________________ Leslie Steeves This thesis explores the past, current, and future significance of la Société des Ambianceurs et des Personnes Elégantes (la Sape), a social movement of well-dressed men that began in the two Congos in the 1980s. Sapeurs, members of la Sape, spend large sums of money on designer clothes, which they show off at social gatherings and use as a signifier of identity and community. Over the decades, la Sape has received more Western media attention, as it has increasingly become an international movement. In particular, Sapeur communities have developed within the larger African diaspora in France and Belgium, the former colonizers of the Republic of the Congo (ROC) and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), respectively. The largest Sapeur communities are in Paris and Brussels, although smaller communities have popped up in other fashion capitals such as London. I conducted field research in Paris and Brussels in January 2017, interviewing a diverse group of Sapeurs and others connected to the movement. The Sapeurs were primarily from one of the two Congos, although a few were born in Europe. -
Unfolding Cloth Across Cultures Curated by Jennifer Kramer
LAYERS OF INFLUENCE Unfolding Cloth Across Cultures Curated by Jennifer Kramer NEW ZEALAND SOUTH PACIFIC ISLANDS JAPAN AOTEAROA- CHINA INDONESIA PERU THAILAND BOLIVIAGUATEMALA USA SUDANGHANA INDIA PAKISTAN CANADA MALI AFGHANISTAN NIGERIA TURKMENISTAN TIBET ENTRANCE Thailand � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 4 Sudan � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 61 Indonesia� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 10 Canada � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 62 India � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 28 USA � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 64 Tibet � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 41 Peru � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 68 Turkmenistan� � � � � � � � � � � � � 45 Guatemala �� � � � � � � � � � � � � � 74 Afghanistan � � � � � � � � � � � � � 47 Bolivia � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 78 Pakistan � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 49 South Pacific Islands� � � � � � � � � 81 Ghana � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 52 Aotearoa-New Zealand � � � � � � � 88 Nigeria � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 56 Japan� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 93 Mali � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 61 China � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 106 = Object mentioned in text Catalogue designed by Katelyn Roberts * LAYERS OF INFLUENCE 1 2 LAYERS OF INFLUENCE LAYERS OF INFLUENCE Unfolding Cloth Across Cultures Museum of Anthropology November 17, 2016-April 9, 2017 Curated by Jennifer Kramer From birth to death, people are wrapped in cloth. We wear clothing for warmth or pro- tection from the sun, but also as an expression of political power, social prestige, pride in identity, and spiritual protection. -
What Is the Best Way to Begin Learning About Fashion, Trends, and Fashion Designers?
★ What is the best way to begin learning about fashion, trends, and fashion designers? Edit I know a bit, but not much. What are some ways to educate myself when it comes to fashion? Edit Comment • Share (1) • Options Follow Question Promote Question Related Questions • Fashion and Style : Apart from attending formal classes, what are some of the ways for someone interested in fashion designing to learn it as ... (continue) • Fashion and Style : How did the fashion trend of wearing white shoes/sneakers begin? • What's the best way of learning about the business behind the fashion industry? • Fashion and Style : What are the best ways for a new fashion designer to attract customers? • What are good ways to learn more about the fashion industry? More Related Questions Share Question Twitter Facebook LinkedIn Question Stats • Latest activity 11 Mar • This question has 1 monitor with 351833 topic followers. 4627 people have viewed this question. • 39 people are following this question. • 11 Answers Ask to Answer Yolanda Paez Charneco Add Bio • Make Anonymous Add your answer, or answer later. Kathryn Finney, "Oprah of the Internet" . One of the ... (more) 4 votes by Francisco Ceruti, Marie Stein, Unsah Malik, and Natasha Kazachenko Actually celebrities are usually the sign that a trend is nearing it's end and by the time most trends hit magazine like Vogue, they're on the way out. The best way to discover and follow fashion trends is to do one of three things: 1. Order a Subscription to Women's Wear Daily. This is the industry trade paper and has a lot of details on what's happen in fashion from both a trend and business level. -
Department of English Language and Literature
MASARYK UNIVERSITY FACULTY OF EDUCATION Department of English Language and Literature Development of English Terminology of Male Fashion Master’s thesis Brno 2018 Author: Supervisor: Bc. Jan Chalupa Mgr. Radek Vogel, PhD. Prohlášení Prohlašuji, že jsem závěrečnou diplomovou práci vypracoval samostatně, s využitím pouze citovaných pramenů, dalších informací a zdrojů v souladu s Disciplinárních řádech pro student Pedagogické fakulty Masarykovy university a se zákonem č. 124/2000 Sb., o právu autorském, o právech souvisejících s právem autorským a změne některách zákonů (autorský zákon), ve znění pozdějších předpisů. Declaration I hereby declare that I worked on the thesis on my own and that I used only the sources listed in the bibliography. Brno 30.3. 2018 …………………………………….. Jan Chalupa Acknowledgements I would like to express my gratitude to Mgr. Radek Vogel, PhD. for his patience, guidance and precious advice during writing this thesis as well as the help with the topic. Abstract Although many research studies were devoted to etymologically themed works, there is no publication that is concerned specifically with male fashion. Therefore, this thesis focuses on the development of the terminology of male fashion. The aim of this thesis is to ascertain the etymological background of the terms of male fashion concerning the language origin, time period and word formation. The first part of the thesis is devoted to outlining the related of linguistic concepts, followed by a brief history of the English language and a brief history of fashion. The last chapter is devoted to the analysis of the terminology that is based on the corpus included in the appendix. -
Isla Mocha, Ad 1000-1700)
TITLE PAGE SOCIOECONOMIC DIFFERENTIATION, LEADERSHIP, AND RESIDENTIAL PATTERNING AT AN ARAUCANIAN CHIEFLY CENTER (ISLA MOCHA, AD 1000-1700) by Roberto J. Campbell Lic., Universidad de Chile, 2002 Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Kenneth P. Dietrich School of Arts and Sciences in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Pittsburgh 2011 UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH DIETRICH SCHOOL OF ARTS AND SCIENCES This dissertation was presented by Roberto J. Campbell It was defended on September 30th, 2011 and approved by Robert D. Drennan, PhD, Distinguished Professor, Anthropology James B. Richardson III, Phd, Professor, Anthropology Mark B. Abbott, PhD, Associate Professor, Geology Dissertation Advisor: Marc P. Bermann, PhD, Associate Professor, Anthropology ii Copyright © by Roberto J. Campbell 2011 iii ABSTRACT SOCIOECONOMIC DIFFERENTIATION, LEADERSHIP, AND RESIDENTIAL PATTERNING AT AN ARAUCANIAN CHIEFLY CENTER (ISLA MOCHA, AD 1000-1700) Roberto J. Campbell, PhD University of Pittsburgh, 2011 The native populations of Araucania (southern Chile) never succumbed to Inka or Spanish conquest. But while independent indigenous sociopolitical structures persisted until the late 1800s, remarkably little is known about late prehispanic and early historical Araucanian sociopolitical organization. Lacking significant archaeological research, current reconstructions are based almost exclusively on European chronicles, and paint a bewilderingly varied picture of indigenous organization, ranging from a -
Cultural Influences on the Dress of Modern Ceylon
CULTURAL INFLUENCES ON THE DRESS OF MODERN CETI.ON by MERCIA VIOLET SYBn. CLOELIA INDRENI SAVUNDRANAYAGAM A THESIS submitted to OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY 1n partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SO IENCE June 1961 APPROVED: Redacted for Privacy u --------------- Associate Professor of Clothing, Textiles and Related Arts In Charge of Major Redacted for Privacy He~d of Department of Cl~ing, Textiles and Related Arts Redacted for Privacy - Chair~of School Graduate Committee / I / Redacted for Privacy Dean of Graduate School Date thesis is presented May 13, 1961 ~yped by Clara Homyer ACKNOWLEDGMENT The writer wishes to express her heartfelt ap preciation and thanks to Miss Ida Ingalls, Associate Professor of Clothing, Textiles and Related Arts, for her constructive criticis.m and careful corrections which shaped this study into its present for.m. The writer also wishes to thank Dr. Florence Petzel, Department Head of Clothing, Textiles and Re lated Arts, for her constant encourage~nt and help. And finally, grateful thanks are offered to the American Association of University wo.men whose assistance provided the opportunity for this study abroad. TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page 1 mTRODUCTION • • . • • 1 2 THE STATEMENT OF· THE PROBLEM . • • • • • • • 21 Review of Literature • • • • • • • • • 25 Limitations • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 28 Use of this Study . • • • • • • • • • • 29 3 ANCIENT CEYLON • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 31 Costume of Ancient India . 32 Costume of Ceylon • • • • • • • • • • • 40 4 .MEDI EVAL CEYLON • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 47 Costume of Moghul India • . 47 Costume of Ceylon from the Twelfth t o the Sixteenth Centuries • • • • • • • • 51 Costume of ortugal in the Si xteenth Century •• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 54 Costume of Holland in the Seventeenth Century • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 57 Costume of Ceylon in the Seventeenth Century .