DOCSLIB.ORG

Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages FCC TP V1 919 3/5/04 3:50 PM Page 3

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the Ages FCC TP V1 919 3/5/04 3:50 PM Page 3 FCC_TP_V1_919 3/5/04 3:50 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V1_919 3/5/04 3:50 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 1: The Ancient1 World SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. The Gale Group, Inc. Permissions Hotline: 27500 Drake Rd. While every effort has been made to 248-699-8006 or 800-877-4253, ext. 8006 Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 ensure the reliability of the informa- Fax: 248-699-8074 or 800-762-4058 Or you can visit our Internet site at tion presented in this publication, The http://www.gale.com Cover photographs reproduced by per- Gale Group, Inc. does not guarantee mission of: Volume 1, from top to bot- the accuracy of data contained herein. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. tom, © Christel Gerstenberg/CORBIS, The Gale Group, Inc. accepts no pay- No part of this work covered by the AP/Wide World Photos, © Araldo de ment for listing; and inclusion in the copyright hereon may be reproduced or Luca/CORBIS; large photo, the Library publication of any organization, agency, used in any form or by any means— of Congress. Volume 2, from top to institution, publication, service, or indi- graphic, electronic, or mechanical, in- bottom, Public Domain, © Gianni Dagli vidual does not imply endorsement by cluding photocopying, recording, Orti/CORBIS, National Archives and the editors or publisher. Errors brought taping, Web distribution, or informa- Records Administration; large photo, to the attention of the publisher and tion storage retrieval systems—without the Smithsonian Institute. Volume 3, verified to the satisfaction of the pub- the written permission of the publisher. from top to bottom, © Historical lisher will be corrected in future editions. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA Pendergast, Sara. Fashion, costume, and culture: clothing, headwear, body decorations, and footwear through the ages / Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast; Sarah Hermsen, editor. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-7876-5417-5 (set hardcover)—ISBN 0-7876-5418-3 (v.1 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5419-1 (v.2 : alk. paper)—ISBN 0-7876-5420-5 (v.3 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5421-3 (v.4 : alk. paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5422-1 (v.5 : alk. paper) 1. Costume—History. 2. Fashion—History. 3. Body marking—History. 4. Dress accessories—History. I. Title: Clothing, headwear, body decorations, and footwear through the ages. II. Pendergast, Tom. III. Hermsen, Sarah. IV. Title. GT511.P46 2004 391’.009—dc22 2003015852 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Contents ■ ■ ■ Entries by Alphabetical Order . .xxvii Entries by Topic Category . .xli Reader’s Guide . .liii Contributors . .lvii Timeline . .lix Words to Know . .lxvii ■ ■ ■ Volume 1: The Ancient World PREHISTORY Prehistoric Life . .1 Clothing Overview . .5 Headwear Overview . .9 Body Decorations Overview . .11 Footwear Overview . .13 ANCIENT EGYPT Ancient Egypt . .15 ■ v ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Unraveling the Mystery of Hieroglyphs (box) . .18 Clothing Overview . .21 Kalasiris . .24 Loincloth and Loin Skirt . .25 Penis Sheath . .27 Schenti . .28 Tunic . .29 Headwear Overview . .31 Headdresses . .32 Pschent . .34 Wigs . .35 Body Decorations Overview . .37 Collars and Pectorals . .38 Fragrant Oils and Ointments . .39 Jewelry . .40 Kohl . .42 Footwear Overview . .45 Sandals . .46 MESOPOTAMIA Mesopotamia . .49 Clothing Overview . .53 Fringe . .55 Shawl . .56 Headwear Overview . .59 Turbans . .60 Veils . .61 Body Decorations Overview . .63 Footwear Overview . .65 Sandals . .66 vi ■ FASHION, COSTUME, AND CULTURE CONTENTS ■ ■ ■ INDIA India . .69 Clothing Overview . .75 Burka . .76 Chadar . .78 Choli . .79 Dhoti and Lungi . .80 Jama . .82 Punjabi Suit . .83 Purdah . .84 Modern Islamic Dress (box) . .85 Sari . .87 Uttariya . .89 Headwear Overview . .91 Turbans . .92 Body Decorations Overview . .95 Foot Decorating . .96 Forehead Markings . .97 Henna Stains . .99 Jewelry . .100 Piercing . .104 Footwear Overview . .107 Chappals . .108 Jutti . .109 Khapusa . .109 Paduka . .110 ANCIENT GREECE Life in Ancient Greece . .113 Clothing Overview . .119 Chlaina and Diplax . .122 Chlamys . .123 Doric Chiton . .124 Himation . .126 Ionic Chiton . .127 ■ CONTENTS vii ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Loin Coverings . .129 Military Dress . .131 Minoan Dress . .132 Peplos . .134 Headwear Overview . .137 Phrygian Cap . .139 Pilos and Petasos . .141 Sakkos and Sphendone . .142 Wreaths . .143 Body Decorations Overview . .145 Cameo and Intaglio . .146 Fibulae . .147 Jewelry . .148 Makeup . ..
Load more

Recommended publications
  • The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society
    The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society Heather Langford Theses submitted for the degree of Master of Arts Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences Centre of Asian Studies University of Adelaide May 2009 ii Dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the research requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Centre of Asian Studies School of Humanities and Social Sciences Adelaide University 2009 iii Table of Contents 1. Introduction.........................................................................................1 1.1. Literature Review..............................................................................13 1.2. Chapter summary ..............................................................................17 1.3. Conclusion ........................................................................................19 2. Background .......................................................................................20 2.1. Pre Han History.................................................................................20 2.2. Qin Dynasty ......................................................................................24 2.3. The Han Dynasty...............................................................................25 2.3.1. Trade with the West............................................................................. 30 2.4. Conclusion ........................................................................................32 3. Textiles and Technology....................................................................33
    [Show full text]
  • Islamic Art from the Collection, Oct. 23, 2020 - Dec
    It Comes in Many Forms: Islamic Art from the Collection, Oct. 23, 2020 - Dec. 18, 2021 This exhibition presents textiles, decorative arts, and works on paper that show the breadth of Islamic artistic production and the diversity of Muslim cultures. Throughout the world for nearly 1,400 years, Islam’s creative expressions have taken many forms—as artworks, functional objects and tools, decoration, fashion, and critique. From a medieval Persian ewer to contemporary clothing, these objects explore migration, diasporas, and exchange. What makes an object Islamic? Does the artist need to be a practicing Muslim? Is being Muslim a religious expression or a cultural one? Do makers need to be from a predominantly Muslim country? Does the subject matter need to include traditionally Islamic motifs? These objects, a majority of which have never been exhibited before, suggest the difficulty of defining arts from a transnational religious viewpoint. These exhibition labels add honorifics whenever important figures in Islam are mentioned. SWT is an acronym for subhanahu wa-ta'ala (glorious and exalted is he), a respectful phrase used after every mention of Allah (God). SAW is an acronym for salallahu alayhi wa-sallam (may the blessings and the peace of Allah be upon him), used for the Prophet Muhammad, the founder and last messenger of Islam. AS is an acronym for alayhi as-sallam (peace be upon him), and is used for all other prophets before him. Tayana Fincher Nancy Elizabeth Prophet Fellow Costume and Textiles Department RISD Museum CHECKLIST OF THE EXHIBITION Spanish Tile, 1500s Earthenware with glaze 13.5 x 14 x 2.5 cm (5 5/16 x 5 1/2 x 1 inches) Gift of Eleanor Fayerweather 57.268 Heavily chipped on its surface, this tile was made in what is now Spain after the fall of the Nasrid Kingdom of Granada (1238–1492).
    [Show full text]
  • Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
    Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern
    [Show full text]
  • The Morgue File 2010
    the morgue file 2010 DONE BY: ASSIL DIAB 1850 1900 1850 to 1900 was known as the Victorian Era. Early 1850 bodices had a Basque opening over a che- misette, the bodice continued to be very close fitting, the waist sharp and the shoulder less slanted, during the 1850s to 1866. During the 1850s the dresses were cut without a waist seam and during the 1860s the round waist was raised to some extent. The decade of the 1870s is one of the most intricate era of women’s fashion. The style of the early 1870s relied on the renewal of the polonaise, strained on the back, gath- ered and puffed up into an detailed arrangement at the rear, above a sustaining bustle, to somewhat broaden at the wrist. The underskirt, trimmed with pleated fragments, inserting ribbon bands. An abundance of puffs, borders, rib- bons, drapes, and an outlandish mixture of fabric and colors besieged the past proposal for minimalism and looseness. women’s daywear Victorian women received their first corset at the age of 3. A typical Victorian Silhouette consisted of a two piece dress with bodice & skirt, a high neckline, armholes cut under high arm, full sleeves, small waist (17 inch waist), full skirt with petticoats and crinoline, and a floor length skirt. 1894/1896 Walking Suit the essential “tailor suit” for the active and energetic Victorian woman, The jacket and bodice are one piece, but provide the look of two separate pieces. 1859 zouave jacket Zouave jacket is a collarless, waist length braid trimmed bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves.
    [Show full text]
  • Fashion,Costume,And Culture
    FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V4_930 3/5/04 3:59 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 4: Modern World Part I: 19004 – 1945 SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos.
    [Show full text]
  • Magical Clothing Fo R Discerning Adventurers
    Magical Clothing fo r Discerning Adventurers Anja Svare Sample file Introduction Table of Contents I really like making magic items. General Clothing 3 Now, there’s nothing wrong with how 5e presents the majority of magic items. But the tend to get a little stale. Potions are all essentially the same, scrolls don’t really have much interest Outerwear 6 other than what spell they contain, you’ve got a few interesting things that aren’t weapons or armor, but that’s about it. Most of those will either break a game because of their power, or Headwear 12 they should require a massive quest of campaign-level, world- spanning heroics to obtain. There just aren’t a lot of items that everyday adventurers want, Footwear 14 that won’t break the bank so to speak, and are things that are actually useful. Everybody wears clothes (I don’t want to think about nude D&D), and everybody loves magic items for their Accessories 16 character.. Combining the two seemed like a good idea, but I didn’t want Special Orders 20 to go with just pants, shirts, etc. I scoured the internet for medieval period clothing, and narrowed down a list of items that were common across a wide range of times and places throughout Europe during the Middle Ages. Now, I did come Glossary 22 across some interesting clothing items that fell outside that range or geography, and a few are included here. None of the items presented here are gender specific. I intentionally left any mention of that out of each item.
    [Show full text]
  • A Study on the Design and Composition of Victorian Women's Mantle
    Journal of Fashion Business Vol. 14, No. 6, pp.188~203(2010) A Study on the Design and Composition of Victorian Women’s Mantle * Lee Sangrye ‧ Kim Hyejeong Professor, Dept. of Fashion Design, TongMyong University * Associate Professor, Dept. of Clothing Industry, Hankyong National University Abstract This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women’s dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the 19 th century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A‐ line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three‐ dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women’s suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects.
    [Show full text]
  • Clothing in Ancient Greece Edited
    Clothing in ancient Greece Clothing in ancient Greece and Rome was generally created out of large, single pieces of fabric. Several different pieces of clothing could be worn in various combinations to create multiple outfits. The fabric was also draped, belted and pinned into various styles. In art, it is sometimes very difficult to differentiate the various garments worn as they all seem to be billowy drapes of fabric. In Greece, women usually wore one of two garments on a regular basis. One was the peplos, a style of dress made from a single piece of fabric that is folded over at the top, wrapped around the body and pinned up at the shoulders. Folding down the top created a second layer of fabric that ran down the back and the front of the garment, which was referred to as an apoptygma. The other piece of clothing was worn by both men and women, and was called a chiton. The chiton was very similar to the peplos, except without the apoptygma. This was created by a single piece of fabric wrapped around the body and pinned up on the shoulders, or by two pieces of fabric sewn up both sides with space left for armholes. The men wore a shorter version of the chiton. This, too, could be belted or left as-is. The pins that were often used to hold up these garments worked very similarly to safety pins or brooches, and were called fibulae. The other important piece of clothing for both men and women was called the himation.
    [Show full text]
  • Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines
    Chair of Urban Studies and Social Research Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism Bauhaus-University Weimar Fashion in the City and The City in Fashion: Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines Doctoral dissertation presented in fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor philosophiae (Dr. phil.) Maria Skivko 10.03.1986 Supervising committee: First Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Frank Eckardt, Bauhaus-University, Weimar Second Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Stephan Sonnenburg, Karlshochschule International University, Karlsruhe Thesis Defence: 22.01.2018 Contents Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................. 5 Thesis Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 6 Part I. Conceptual Approach for Studying Fashion and City: Theoretical Framework ........................ 16 Chapter 1. Fashion in the city ................................................................................................................ 16 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 16 1.1. Fashion concepts in the perspective ........................................................................................... 18 1.1.1. Imitation and differentiation ................................................................................................ 18 1.1.2. Identity
    [Show full text]
  • The War and Fashion
    F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book.
    [Show full text]
  • Tournament Gallery - Word Search
    HERALDRY Heraldry involves using patterns pictures and colours to represent a knight. Below is an example. Q: Why do you think heraldry was important to a knight? TOURNAMENT Design and GALLERY sketch your own coat of arms KEY STAGE 3 Self-Guided Visit Student Activity Handbook w w w w w w . r r o o Name: y y a a l l a a r r School: m m o o u u r r i i Class: e e s s . o o r r g g Date: © Royal Armouries The Tournament Gallery can be found on Floors 2 and 3 of the Museum. TUDOR TOURNAMENT ARMOUR DECORATION Q: In the Tudor period the tournament was highly popular. Name and describe Find the section in the gallery that describes different ways to the different games associated with the tournament? decorate armour. Q: Name the methods used to decorate these armours A B C D E Q: Why do you think knights and nobles decorated their armour? Q: Find a piece of decorated armour in the gallery sketch it in the box below and describe why you chose it. Armours were made to protect a knight in battle or in the tournament. Q: What are the main differences between armour made to wear in battle and tournament armour? 1 © Royal Armouries © Royal Armouries 2 FIELD OF CLOTH OF GOLD KING HENRY VIII Find the painting depicting the Field of Cloth of Gold tournament. Henry VIII had some of the most impressive armours of his time. To the right of the painting of the Field of Cloth of Gold is a case displaying an armour made for Henry VIII; it was considered to be one of Q: In which year did the Field of Cloth of Gold tournament take place? the greatest armours ever made, why do you think this was? Q: On the other side of the painting is an usual armour.
    [Show full text]
  • “We Are Nigeria”
    “WE ARE NIGERIA” CHAPTER ONE ‘Who can tell me what happened on the 1st of October 1960?’ asked our class teacher. None of the students wanted to answer the question. Our teacher looked around the class and we hid our faces because we knew what she was going to do next. ‘Jay’ She said, and he almost jumped out of his chair. ‘Please answer the question.’ She always picked a student randomly to answer questions when no one volunteered. ‘It was the day Nigeria defeated the Queen of England’ Jay got up to answer the question. His voice was a shaky whisper. Jay was always nervous when he had to answer questions in class. ‘Yes Didi’ our teacher said and the class turned to look at me as I stood up to answer the question. ‘Class, did you hear him?’ our teacher asked. ‘No ma’ the class chorused. Their mocking voices ‘Before the 1st of October 1960, Nigeria was ruled by made Jay more nervous. Great Britain. The Queen of England, Queen Elizabeth the second was the Head of Government of ‘It was the day Nigeria defeated the Queen of Nigeria. Before independence, the money we spent England’ Jay repeated louder and the class erupted in Nigeria was pounds and shillings; the British people in laughter. taught us their language and that is why English language is the primary language in Nigeria.’ ‘Students, please be quiet’ she scolded and the class went quiet. I was enjoying all the attention as the class listened to me attentively. ‘Good effort Jay’ she said but we knew she was only trying to encourage him.
    [Show full text]