ALPE Seiser Alm Magazine

Summer 2020 ALPE Seiser Alm Magazine

CASTELROTTO · SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR · FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR · SEISER ALM · TIRES AL CATINACCIO

Dolomites Mountain life Garden Joy and dedication Art project Kostner‘s “Sasmujel“ Editorial & Contents zallinger.com

Has time come to a standstill here? Photo: Helmuth Rier Helmuth Photo:

Dear guests!

Endless options, exhilarating heights of almost 3,000 metres In addition to important infor- Page 4 adventures, the mountain life… to take over the mountain hut mation about public services, Ski racer Peter Fill brings his career to a close Hiking and climbing, paragliding Rifugio Passo Santner in the he- you will find a wealth of tips on Page 6 and swimming, savouring the ta- art of the fairytale lands of the the best restaurants, restau- Where life buds, blossoms and stes of traditional fare and rela- Catinaccio. And on the spor- rants, meeting places and shop- blooms: Farmhouse gardens xing in a hay-bath: In the holiday tier side of things, professional ping opportunities in the villa- seen from above area Seiser Alm, your holiday mountain biker Franz Hofer tells ges of Castelrotto, Siusi allo Page 14 prospects are boundless. us how his life’s passion became Sciliar, Fiè allo Sciliar, Seiser Art in the Dolomites: Hubert Kostner’s “Sasmujel” his career, and shares his insi- Alm and Tires al Catinaccio. Page 18 OR ARE WE Read on, and enjoy the fasci- ghts into life as a biking pro. This magazine will also provide Franz Hofer, pro on pedals nating variety of articles in this you with a detailed events pro- JUST A STEP AHEAD? Page 24 issue: Where life buds, blo- Have you always wondered why gramme, information on all the Two young mountain hut oms and blossoms: Join us on a so many people wear a blue top cultural and sociable highli- hosts on the Catinaccio bird’s eye flight over the extra- apron in this area? ALPE will ghts this summer, and a sneak Page 30 ordinary, lovingly-tended gar- share the secrets with you as preview of the winter 2020/21 Saffron cultivation in Siusi allo Sciliar dens - the stunning spectacle of we lead you on a journey into calendar. shape and colour will take your a world of living tradition and Page 34 The blue apron: Emblem of the breath away. You’ll also find out much-loved heritage. What is We hope you enjoy this edition industrious South Tyrolean how two sisters in Siusi allo Sci- the story behind the “Sasmujel” and wish you a wonderful, un- Page 38 ZALLINGER liar are making saffron cultiva- stone wrapped in brightly colou- forgettable stay, filled with rela- Arnold Tribus portrays tion possible here in our holiday red climbing ropes at the foot of xation and joy. artist Willy Valier MOUNTAIN HOLIDAYS AND RESTAURANT area. the Sassolungo? Artist Hubert Page 44 Kostner from Castelrotto invi- Pear jam with saffron “Going higher“: Dedicated tes you to share in the excite- Eduard Tröbinger Scherlin Page 46 Highlights in summer 2020 young hut owners Michel and ment of this fascinating artistic President for Seiser Alm Foto: Benno Prenn Foto: Page 48 Romina aim to “go high” in the project. Marketing and the Tourist Winter 2020/21 preview truest sense of the word, and are Offices of Castelrotto, Siusi ARKENFEE – ARKENFEE Page 50 M delighted to tell you what inspi- ALPE - your holiday companion allo Sciliar, Fiè allo Sciliar, Sei- Seen and heard red them to head up to the dizzy in our holiday area Seiser Alm! ser Alm and Tires al Catinaccio Florian lift TRAIL NO. 9 (6 mins) HOW DO I GET THERE? Saltria 74 Hotel Tirler – TRAIL NO. 9 (1 hr and 15 mins.) Summer | ALPE 3 Thank you, Peter!

One of the true greats has left the winter stage: Peter Fill, ski racer from Castelrotto competed in his last World Cup event in February 2020.

He will always remain a role model in the sports world, and will be remembered both for his modesty and obliging demeanour and as an athlete who gave his all to pursuing success in his impassioned career as a ski racer right up until the very end.

Thank you, Peter Fill, for all the thrills and excitement you have given us over the years!

The speed specialist and ambassador for the Seiser Alm retired from his skiing career this past winter.

4 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 5 Brigitte Kompatscher‘s farm garden at the Moarhof in Fiè allo Sciliar, where nature lives in harmony with itself.

Where life buds, blossoms and blooms

A garden, despite all the time and dedication it entails, is a source of immense joy: It give youfresh vegetables, sweet berries and brightly coloured flowers but, above all, it fills you with satisfaction. ALPE took a look at a few gardens from a slightly unusual perspective. I

If you take a stroll through the villages and hamlets in the holiday area Seiser Alm in spring, summer or autumn, the wonderment never ends: In front of the farmhouses, sunflowers several metres in height stretch up from the gardens into the balmy air, while leeks and onions intersperse with the pinks, violets and yellows of aster, lady’s mantle and iris.

The garden is normally the domain of the farming women and housewives, and life in most farms and family homes in South Tyrol would be unima- ginable without this abundantly fertile patch of Text: Elisabeth Augustin land. However, the single concept of THE garden » Photo: Helmuth Rier

6 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 7 The Malfertheiner family tend their garden at the Oberpstosser in S. Valentino with the greatest of love and devotion. simply does not exist; every garden is different. They come in different shapes, sizes and colours and vary in location, choice of plants and the reason for planting them. Every garden is also home to much-welcomed insectsbut on the other hand Valentin Mayrl and also to bugs that pose a potential threat to the ve- his dog Dana spend so getables and herbs. many precious moments together in their garden in Telfen. These gardens are a lovingly tended wellspring of beautiful exemplar of natural heritage and a com- peace and of energy. Sometimes they are the epi- mon sight in the mountainous reaches of South tome of orderliness, and sometimes they sprout Tyrol. Located along the footpath leading to the forth wilder blossoms of breathtaking beauty. Laghetto di Fiè lake, Brigitte’s garden brings joy Unlike large-scale cultivation, family vegetable pa- always easy to tell which of these are foodstuffs to plant-loving souls right through to the autumn. tches and gardens are home to an incredible range and which are decorative –the two are not always Alongside chives, parsley, celery, onions, lettuce, of vegetables, herbs, flowers and plants which, ge- mutually exclusive. On looking over the fence and bell peppers, beans, carrots and tomatoes, Bri- nerally speaking, provide for self-sufficiency. into what lies beyond, the attentive observer will gitte also grows blackcurrants and strawberries. discover an immense wealth of species, and it is Her own home-sown seeds shine in resplendent The trend of the moment is the rediscovery of old well worth taking some time to enjoy a closer look radiance, a composition of shades and hues set off varietals, and an increasing awareness of their va- at this mini cosmos. by the backdrop of the Schlern: Zinnias, asters, ma- lue has encouraged younger generations of farmers “Yes, our garden is definitely a typical farmer’s gar- rigolds, cosmea flowers, sunflowers together with to opt for local varieties; this tendency is not only of For ALPE magazine, photographer Helmuth Rier den” says Brigitte Wörndle Kompatscher, farming tendrils of pink and lilac creeping their way up the benefit for the humanity and the natural world, but set his drone off on flight to get a bird’s eye view lady at the Moarhof in Fiè allo Sciliar, explaining fencing. imparts a tremendous sense of joy in growing one’s of the most unusual gardens. And when seen from that it is home to both flowers and vegetables. own food. Newer varietals also thrive in a number above, the vision of shapes and colours is nothing This style of garden is normally surrounded by lar- Amidst a vast stretch of green land on the southern of traditional gardens and, at first glance, it is not short of breathtaking. ch-wood picket fencing known as ‘Speltenzaun,’ a slopes of S. Valentino, a large garden comes into »

8 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 9 nods in agreement – she knows how much the gar- ter instantly.” In summer months, the front of the den means, and gives, to her Valentin. house is nice and shady at lunchtime, and that is when Edeltraud can take a short break and relax in At the Psoar-Hof in S. Valentino, which dates back her garden. She grows mainly vegetables behind to the year 1350, the garden is indubitably the re- the old wooden fence, where passers-by never fail alm of farming woman Edeltraud Rabanser Rung- to stop and behold in amazement: carrots cour- galdier. “I do everything here,” she says. “This is the gettes, lettuce, leeks, red cabbage, green cabbage, best, and most relaxing, job on the farm. Whenever chard, onions, parsley, chives and garlic escorted I’m agitated I retreat to my garden, and I feel bet- by an array of traditional herbs including thyme, marjoram and basil, and blackberries, which Edel- traud boils up into mouthwatering jams. The vegetables are served up on the table to feed the family of five every day, and the leeks are frozen for use during the winter months. This farm is also home to another interesting aside: The potatoes are stored in an enormous cellar, which, in the days when the farm belonged to the Castelvecchio Castle, housed a dungeon.

Maria Wörndle Rier tends a rare sight indeed in the centre of Castelrotto: a round garden. “My garden used to be square, like all the other gardens in the area,” the 90 year-old Maria tells us. When Maria Rier’s garden in her grandson became a gardener he designed the » Castelrotto town centre is In her garden at the Psoar-Hof an all-round joy. Having your in S. Valentino, farming lady own garden calls for dedication Edeltraud devotes her energies and, above all, a lot of time. to “the best and most relaxing job on the farm.” view near the Oberpstosser-Hof farm. “Carrots, cabbage, red cabbage, runner beans, beetroot, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, onions, garlic, pum- pkin, red and yellow potatoes, tomatoes, cucumber and courgettes all grow here,” enumerates Anna Menghin Malfertheiner; “We grow everything or- ganically.” Her daughter Jolanda, who shares her mother’s love for nature, is an enthusiastic assistant, and is trying to grow sweet potatoes. “The vegetables are for our own sustenance. Anything that we don’t eat fresh, we freeze or preserve in jars,” explains Anna, a trained cook. “All of our seeds are organic, and we buy them from the Pfle- den!” His kingdom is the “Ziuger Anger” in Tel- gerhof farm. The garden is a lot of work, but it is fen, Castelrotto, where he spends a great deal of a great joy.” time every day “mostly getting rid of the beetles from the potatoes,” he laughs. He also has to spray When you pass by his house, you will nearly always them to prevent blight, and uses dung to fertilise catch sight of Valentin Mayrl working busily in his the land. After he has dug the ground in spring, small field alongside the Siusi to Castelrotto road. Valentin puts in his vegetables , he says, quoting Potatoes, broad beans and onions thrive and flou- an old proverb: “Setzt mich im April, kimm i, wenn rish in his lands, and weeds don’t stand a chance i will; setzt mich im Mai, kimm i glei” (“Plant me in – Valentin works hard to make sure of that. His April and I’ll grow at my own will, plant me in May, dog Dana is always by his side when retiree Valen- and I’ll grow straight away”). Valentin Mayrl wor- tin crosses the street from his house to his nearby ked as a builder for 36 years, but is convinced that field and gives the command: “We’re off to the gar- he would have made a great farmer. His wife Frieda

10 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 11 round garden, and it has gone on to become, so to fine and Marialuise Planer rarely have the time for speak, an all-round joy that gives the sprightly old a chat when they meet there, as there is so much lady a lot of fun. In addition to basil, celery, chi- work to be done. “But we can always see what is ves, onions, beetroots, endives, Brazilian lettuce, growing and thriving in each other’s patch,” smi- cucumber and courgettes, Maria also grows a vast les Josefine, who lives on the farm. Knowing and, array of flowers, with roses, dahlias and asters brin- above all, feeling that the sister in the other part ging a vibrant glow to the garden in the warmer of the garden is also busy tending and nurturing, is months. When she is out weeding, Maria particu- a joy for both of them. Here at 1,230 metres above larly enjoys the afternoon shade in summer. She is sea level, they grow lettuce, courgettes, cucum-

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Chiusa The hard work that sisters Josefine and Marialuise Planer Castelrotto put into their garden at the Prato Isarco Fiè allo Sciliar Pristingerhof in S. Valentino Bolzano is amply rewarded with joy nord sorry to see that most of the gardens have disappe- ber, cabbage, beets and a variety of other vege- Siusi allo Sciliar and fresh vegetables. BoLzano ared from the town centre: “Unfortunately, a lot of tables, in addition to countless herbs, berries and Cardano people don’t have the time for their own gardens flowers.” In this day and age, knowing what you anymore,” she says regretfully. Maria is delighted, are eating is of inestimable value,” the farming Trento/Verona Val d’Ega Tires however, to have her own “green fingers” and the lady says. “I couldn’t imagine farming life without Passo niger/Carezze enthusiasm of her daughter-in-law and grandchil- a garden.” When we ask if, occasionally, she woul- dren. dn’t prefer to just sit on the bench with her sister new showroom! and do nothing, Josefine can only shake her head: BoLzano Winestore srl TIRES At the Pristingerhof farm in S. Valentino, two si- No. In this garden, there really is no time for such zona Produttiva Cardano 5 Via San Giorgio 9 sters share an enormous garden. However, Jose- things. « Visit our online shop. 39053 Cornedo all‘Isarco (Bz) 39050 Tires (Bz) Tel. +39 0471 642 106 Tel. +39 0471 640 008 winestore.bz weindiele.com 12 ALPE | Summer

Winestore-Anzeigen A4_def.indd 3 02.04.20 09:25 Hubert Kostner wrapped 10,000 metres of brightly-coloured climbing ropes around a boulder in the Sassolungo cirque. Soft as stone

Up until mid-summer, hikers on the Sassopiatto cirque will meet with a stone wrapped in brightly-coloured climbing ropes. What lies behind this work of art, created by Castelrotto artist Hubert Kostner? W

When Austrian Alpine mountaineer Paul Groh- ted with an array of events. Transart, the contem- mann, accompanied by two mountain guides from porary art festival which has been held annually Val Gardena, made the first ascent of the Sasso- for the past 20 years made its own contribution lungo on 13 August 1992, it was nothing short of to the celebrations and paid homage to the Sasso- sensational. Prior to this conquest, the imposing piatto with a piece of performance art created for landmark which dominates the landscape of the this very unusual resonance chamber by composer Seiser Alm to the east, in concert with the Sasso- Eduard Demetz and dancer Anastasia Kostner. piatto, had been considered “unconquerable” due to the length of its uphill ascent and perilous rock- The project also included a contribution from the slides. In 2019, the 150th jubilee of this milestone in field of visual arts which can be seen at the scene of Text: Sabine Funk Photo: Helmuth Rier Alpine history in the Dolomites was commemora- the performance - and not just for one day, but for »

14 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 15 the whole year - in the form of a work by visual ar- rience for the artist himself: “We artists usually tist Hubert Kostner. Entitled Sasmujel (“Soft stone” work in protected areas like museums or galleries. in Ladino), it is the realisation of a long-nurtured Up here at 2,600 metres above sea level, everything dream. In symbolic language, Kostner has expres- is completely different. Aesthetic decisions are di- sed the essence of being “bound” to the mountains ctated by practical necessities, the weather plays a by trussing a boulder in no less than 10,000 me- decisive role; you are, quite simply, subject to the tres of brightly-coloured climbing ropes, giving the laws of nature. But, more than anything else, it is an rough rock a new surface and, with it, a soft, tran- enormous honour for me to be able to install this smuted exterior. The ropes were procured in part work into this space where nature alone, not cul- through a fundraiser, and in part were donated by ture, prevails. In relation to the immensity of the sponsors. So, what does it mean? “Climbers are grey rock arena my work is miniscule and, effecti- often reproached for doing something absurd, sen- vely, insignificant. Because this stone is nothing up seless. Wrapping a stone may seem to be pointless, there. Small, fragile, vulnerable - just like human but art exists purely in order to create new shapes beings when they are in this environment. In my and images. Even though they may appear absurd, 20 years as an artist, I have never had the opportu- they are never pointless. The ropes are the key to nity to create art in a more beautiful or more com- creating a new object. At the same time, this work pelling location.” represents a mutual enmeshment: The mountain holds me, and I hold it. And, of course, the rope re- The winter months blanketed the Sasmujel in a presents the existential relationship between clim- thick layer of snow, which was already lying in the bers.” The roughly 5-metre high, 4-metre wide rock cirque of the Sassolungo in November. As spring looked something like a Toblerone bar before Kost- moves forwards, the brightly coloured rock will be ner’s transformation, and its metamorphosis into a one of the first splashes of colour when the snow coloured ball on a hiking trail - which was particu- melts. How it will look and whether or not it will Hubert Kostner: “Art exists larly busy that summer - did not go unnoticed. The need freshening up remains to be seen. The project purely in order to create new shapes and images.” Sasmujel was soon to become a popular photo and has been documented in a book and in film. This co- selfie opportunity, although not necessarily reco- ming summer, Hubert Kostner and an assistant will gnised or explored as a work of art. This brought spend a few days on-site to liberate the Sasmujel unanticipated complications, and a “Climbing on from its ropes. When the jubilee year of the first the artwork is prohibited” sign had to be erected. ascent of the Sassolungo comes to an end, all traces of the action should disappear: “Captivation and li- This summer, the “Sasmujel” The high-Alpine stage setting is also a special expe- beration - and so the circle ends.” « will be liberated from its bonds – and afterwards, nothing will remain of this work of art.

16 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 17 Training on the doorstep: Franz Hofer finds the perfect conditions for it around S. Costantino.

Franz the mountain biker

Franz Hofer from Val Sarentino has been a professional mountain biker for a quarter of a century: A long, arduous road that, for the most part, he’s travelled alone - and it’s not over yet. C

“Cycling is a solo sport. I like being alone, and I were a good 600 metres of hill to contend with. liked it when I was a child. Naturally you do race And I enjoyed it. At some point my godfather gave for a team as a professional mountain biker, but me my first bike, and I entered my first race when you do 90 % of your training alone, unlike in ski- I was 12 years old. From that moment on, there ing where a pool of 10 people train together. If was no doubt that I wanted to do it for a living.” you’re a professional biker, you’re on your own.” At that time, there were no schools, which foste- And so begins the professional chronicles of Val red young talents like those in the Alpine region Sarentino “mountain bike veteran” Franz Hofer, of today, mainly for skiing. From the very outset, all set to bike his way into his 26th season the co- Franz was on his own, and had to find his own way ming summer. The decision to become a profes- of doing it. “My second passion, other than cycling sional was not a hard one to take: For Hofer, born soon, and inevitably became finding sponsors.” in 1981, the sport was the perfect fit for him both physically and psychologically, and it is clear that His competitive career began in the 1990s - his love for the sport drives him onwards rather an auspicious time, as it was in this period that than any burning desire to make a name for him- mountain biking was classified as a professional self in the races. sport. MTB Cross Country first became an Olym- pic sport in 1996 and similarly the mountain bike Franz Hofer helped out on a nearby farm in Val scene underwent something like a boom period Sarentino starting his early youth, and he always in Italy, with its deep-rooted cycling culture. His Text: Sabine Funk Photo: Helmuth Rier biked to work. “It was only 8 kilometres, but there debut in the junior races was a happy occasion. »

18 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 19 Franz Hofer and former ski racer Denise Karbon have two lively children.

BIG VICTORIES 2002 Italian Champion (U23) 2002 European Championships 4th place (team relay) Leysin (CH) 2003 World Championships When Hofer took the title of Italian champion cross-country skiing and ski tours but more often Lugano (CH), 9th place in the U23 category in 2002 a number of teams than not he hops on his “equipment” of choice, his (Cross Country) expressed an interest in him and, at the age of 20, bike, and takes advantage of all the possibilities in 2004 European Championships he signed his first professional contract with the his immediate surrounding around S. Costantino Graz (AT) 2005 Dolomiti Superbike, team belonging to Austrian Formula One driver near Fiè allo Sciliar. “Short, intensive training ses- 1st place Alexander Wurz. This was followed by a notable sions take two to three hours and longer ones five, 2006 European Championships, 11 years in the Italian Scott Team. Franz Hofer’s but I’m always back after six hours.” Franz has other 3rd place in the overall career is arguably more impressive for its length ‘problems’ which other men could only dream of: classification 2015 Transalp Stage Champion - how many athletes can look back on over 25 ye- He has more or less given up strength training as 2015 Bike four Peaks Stage ars as a professional? - than for its really big victo- he has a tendency to build up muscle too quickly, Champion (DE) ries. Hofer, however, reflects with wisdom: “As a which is not an advantage in his sport: Body weight professional I have never really reached the top of has to be hauled up the mountains and this metre PRESTIGIOUS WINS IN THE “CLASSIC” the world. But even when I look back, I don’t see upon metre of altitude difference. MOUNTAIN BIKE RACES this as being frustrating or humiliating; I just enjoy 2014 Montalcino Marathon my job immensely. Maybe it was different in the At the beginning of his career, Franz Hofer mainly 2014 RampiConero Marathon first few years - when you’re younger you want to competed in the relatively short loop-routes of 2015 Monteriggioni Marathon achieve everything at once. But even though I’ve cross-country races but made a gradual shift from 2015 RampiConero Marathon never been at the peaks of the World Cup loop, my 2013 to 2016 and, finally made the transition to good results at national and European level have marathons - races of at least 60 km, generally with always spurred me on. I know my own potential, anywhere from 2,000 to 5,000 metres of altitude and that is, possibly and fundamentally a positive difference. This style of cycling involves a com- thing as to today, I am still motivated to give my pletely different kind of challenge for athletes: “I best. People who have taken the top podium and often got good results at the beginning of my ca- can’t sustain their performance over time might reer, but they were only good in athletic terms. see more reason to bring their careers to an end, Now that I’m older it is of course, difficult to keep but I just really like my profession.” up with the younger lads, but I can compensate to a large extent with my experience, particularly In practical terms, this “job” consists of following since I started racing in marathons.” In the longer a training programme every day which most re- races, you have to be able to assess your progress creational bikers would be proud of completing and pace yourself throughout the race. in a week. But, as Franz Hofer emphasises, he has always been somebody who needs little training. But the time is drawing nearer when the 38 ye- “I always used to try to train a lot because I loved ar-old Hofer’s active sports career will, inevitably, doing it, but it was often counterproductive. With draw to a close. Last autumn, he transferred to the benefit of hindsight, I now know that I have to the Italian team New Bike 2008, where he alre- take more care during the recovery phases so I only ady has a dual role, which may lead to a potential train once a day, and always right here on my door- future career. “I still race, but the team has brou- step.” During winter, his training can often involve ght in a few exceptionally talented young riders »

20 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 21 Broken chains – it can without auto-mobile easily happen in cycling races, and costs you several positions in the rankings. Affordably and conveniently to the trekking wonderland

with the Combi Card or the Seiser Alm Card Gold

Combi Card Seiser Alm Card Gold* 95.00 Euro ohne auto-mobil - senza auto-mobile Valid for 7 days (after first use) | 07/06 > 12/10/2020 Seiser Alm Card Gold ohne auto-mobil - senza auto-mobile

Gültigkeitszeitraum: 7 Tage ab Erstentwertung. > unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway Your Name & Surname. Card not Periodotrasferable. di validità: 7 giorni dalla prima vidimazione. R oberto BaggioValue period: 7 days after first use. and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10) Roberto Baggio Senior - 95,00 Euro Carta Numero: 19524 > unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13 and 15) 24 agosto 2020 - ore 11:36 MichaelYour Name & Surname. Pocher Card not trasferable. and the Almbus (route 11) Michael Pocher Senior - 95,00 Euro > unrestricted use of the Bullaccia Aerial Cableway, the Aerial Lifts Spitzbühl, Carta Numero: 02424 Panorama, Florian (Seiser Alm) and Marinzen (Castelrotto) 22 luglio 2020 - 8:36 Uhr who will benefit from my experience and who I overlapped and they only got to know each other have taken under my wing a little.” Equally, howe- after Karbon had retired from professional sports, ver, he could see himself sharing his experience so they have never had to reconcile the every- in a cycling shop –something that he has always day life of two professional athletes. Just as well Combi Card 3 in 7* 43.00 Euro Combi Card 7* 56.00 Euro Combi Card 14* 84.00 Euro done on a part-time basis throughout his career. with her understanding of his daily training rou- Over the course of 7 days (after first use) Valid for 7 days (after first use) Valid for 14 days (after first use) Sharing his enthusiasm for mountain biking is im- tine and frequent absences - not easy with two > 3 times to the Seiser Alm and back, > unrestricted use of the > unrestricted use of the portant to Hofer. When we ask about his favou- young children - his wife provides him with great with the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway OR the Seiser Alm Express (route 10) and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10) and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10) rite races in South Tyrol, the ones that every am- support, says Franz. Outside the home that they > unrestricted use of the > unrestricted use of the > unrestricted use of the bitious amateur should ride, he answers without share in S Costantino, designed with amazing at- Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15) Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15) Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15) hesitation: “The Hero Dolomites - it’s an incredi- tention to detail, we can see another side to the and the Almbus (route 11) and the Almbus (route 11) and the Almbus (route 11) bly tough race but the views make it worth all the lone cyclist: That of a loving father and family man. effort, and, of course, Dolomiti Superbike. It’s not Dwarf goats, rabbits and hens play happily in what The Combi Card and the Seiser Alm Card Gold are not transferable! Children (born after 16/05/2012) and persons on wheelchairs ride free of charge. a technical race as such, but the excellent organi- is practically a mini zoo, amidst a homemade tree Juniors (born after 16/05/2004) pay only half fare. sation has kept the family atmosphere despite the house and natural outdoor games. Possibly, when *The Guest Card “Südtirol Alto Adige Guest Pass” from Seiser Alm Holiday Area, large number of participants.” he ends his career, Hofer says he might seek his which is not available for purchase and is issued free of charge to the guests by the accomodation, alone time working in the woodland behind the includes a price reduction for the Combi Card and for the Seiser Alm Card Gold. Since 2014, Franz Hofer has been together house if he feels the need: There would certainly Multi-storey car park in the package with purchase of a Combi Card or Seiser Alm Card Gold:

1 day: 3.00 €, 3 days: 8.00 €, 7 days: 11.00 €, 14 days: 17.00 €, 1 month: 25,00 € Rier Helmuth - Foto: Graphik Komma with former ski racer Denise Karbon. The couple be plenty to do. But will he continue to bike after have two children together, and have been mar- his professional career has come to an end? Well,

ried since 2018. Their professional careers never that remains a surprise. « Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway 39040 Siusi allo Sciliar · Via Sciliar, 39 Tel. 0471 704 270 · Fax 0471 704 269 www.seiseralmbahn.it · [email protected] 22 ALPE | Summer Michel and Romina put heart and soul into their new venture up on high at the mountain hut Rifugio Passo Santner. Mountain life What does a young couple who live at an altitude of nearly 3,000 metres Romina Huber and Michel Perathoner enjoy life to the full in the heart of the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hosting a mountain hut is a great joy, but by no means a piece of cake. C

Clearly visible below the peak of the Catinaccio spective buyers, one of whom was the Perathoner even from a distance away, the mountain hut Rifu- family from Siusi allo Sciliar. “My father asked me gio Passo Santne is located at 2,734 metres above and my two brothers if any of us were interested sea level in the “Gartl” scree land in the heart of in taking over the Santnerpass mountain hut, and I the Catinaccio mountain group. The hut was built in was immediately filled with enthusiasm by the pro- 1856 by Giulio Gabrielli, a mountain guide from the spect,” says Michel Perathoner. The oldest of the Fassa Valley and was owned by his family for over fi- three sons had already completed his education at fty years. When the hut was closed to the public for Hotel Management college and also his Bachelor Text: Katja Sanin Photo: Helmuth Rier the first time in 2013 there were a number of pro- in Political Science. He knew well what the life of »

24 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 25 to the Rifugio Re Alberto 1° hut. There Tobias was doughnuts and served them with homemade apri- waiting to unload the goods and pack them onto cot jam,” the couple tell us during their conversa- yet another cable car for the journey to the Sant- tion with ALPE, reminiscing over their first season nerpass hut. “It always took three people to get the as mountain hut hosts while drinking coffee in Ar- goods delivered, and we needed to top up twice gentina. The hardest part was the difficulty in esti- a week in high season because of our lack of sto- mating how many guests would come each day; in rage space,” explains Michel, who kept track of the their first season at the hut, the couple had no expe- small inventory. ”If we ran out of something, like rience, and the number of guests fluctuated consi- onions or flour, we were able to count on the in- derably from day to day: At the height of the season, valuable help from our neighbours Valeria und Ste- they served 80 meals per day on peak days. The gue- fan from the Rifugio Re Alberto 1° hut, who were sts were a colourful blend of international climbers always happy to lend us a hand if we were in a fix,” and, in addition to the many locals, Italians, Ger- says Romina. mans and Europeans, hailed from Japan, Australia, India, Iran, Mexico, Canada and more. “One guest Seasonal and regional: The couple’s culinary even came from South Africa. He had no expe-

It’s the fundamentals philosophy. Michel wanted to do something a little rience in the mountains and wasn’t well equipped. that count in the mountains: different in the kitchen rather than serving up the He was lucky though, as it was a hot day and still At 3,000 metres up on high, staple hut classics. At the Santnerpass hut, onion pretty warm in the evening, so he didn’t need warm there’s no room for fripperies. soup was served rather than noodle soup, all ima- mountain clothes,” says Michel. The South African a mountain hut host involved, as he had practically in Milan, and lived and worked there for nine ye- ginable variations of bread dumplings replaced guest had been to a wedding in Venice and then grown up on the mountain hut Rifugio Alpe di Tires, ars before she began her new life as mountain hut the traditional ‘shepherd’s macaroni and chilli con made a quick detour to the Dolomites to spend the which his grandfather had opened in 1963. Michel manager with her boyfriend. Life in a mountain hut carne’ the classic goulash as a meat dish. The clas- night at the Santnerpass hut before flying back to could easily see himself running the hut, but the could not be more different from that of a big city sics, however, stayed firmly in place when it came South Africa the following day. Gabrielli family from the Fassa Valley were unable like Milan: “Both have their appeal, but I wouldn’t to desserts: Apple strudel was served every day, and to reach agreement on the future of the Santner- want to go back to the big city,” she says. Life in the Kaiserschmarrn (Emperor’s mess) if time permit- Summer 2019 was a mixed bag, due to the unpre- pass mountain hut and it remained closed for the mountains is more intense. You feel more groun- ted. “The greatest success in our first season was dictable weather. On rainy days, the trio at the hut next few years. ded and appreciate the fundamentals of life, like our beetroot dumplings with gorgonzola sauce spent their time preparing for the following days. It water, so much more all of a sudden. There is no and, at the weekends, we made our own carnival wasn’t a bad summer as such, but it wasn’t steady. » In the meantime, Michel completed his Master’s groundwater supply to the hut, just melted water degree in Economics in Bolzano and had pushed and rainwater. Managing the water supply was a all thoughts of running the Santnerpass hut to the considerable challenge, the couple agree. It could back of his mind until one day in spring 2018, when be used for cooking, but there was no fresh salad his father called him out of the blue, told him that in the hut, for example, as there was no water to the hut was up for sale again and asking him if he wash it with. They made coffee with mineral water was still interested in taking it over. “I got straight and when the temperature fell below zero in the on the phone to call my girlfriend Romina in Mi- evenings, they filledjerry cans and carafes with the lan,” says Michel. When Romina said she would water before it froze to have water at night and the do it with him, there was no doubt that the couple following morning. would take over the Santnerpass hut in the summer of 2019, as there wasn’t enough time to get organi- The new hosts split the labour: Michel works in sed for the 2018 season, so the two new hosts tell the kitchen and Romina serves customers, does The magazine Alpe via a WhatsApp call from Ar- the paperwork and the cleaning. In the first sea- gentina, their current location on a tour of South son, her colleague Tobias ensured that everything America after their first season in the mountains worked out around the hut. The Santnerpass hut is of South Tyrol. not large, and sleeps twelve climbers in two new 6-bed dorms furnished in spruce wood. If there are They first stepped footinto the hut together in a lot of people around, an additional five people can June 2018. “Opening the shutters and letting the be accommodated in the parlour. Storage space for light and fresh air flow through our new summer groceries is also limited and the couple got their home was an incredible sensation,” says Romina, supplies once a week when Michel’s father brought their orders to the Rifugio Vajolet hut, where they who has found it easy to settle into a life at 3,000 “Over all the hilltops is quiet now,” metres metres. Romina studied fashion and design were reloaded onto the cable car and transported wrote Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.

26 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 27 Foto: IDM/Andreas Mierswa IDM/Andreas Foto:

June was a particularly hot month and there were a lot of showers in the afternoons, so mountaineers had to plan their trips well. One day that Romina, Michel and Tobias will never forget is 25 July 2019, when the temperatures plummeted throughout Eu- rope, and there was a record number of lightning storms in South Tyrol. “We thought we knew what a thunder storm was, but that evening was both incredibly scary and incredibly beautiful,” they re- call. “By good luck, the overnight guests were alre- The fascinating ady there when the storm began in the late after- mountain scenery noon. We had just finished dinner when there was of the Dolomites. a thunderous crack and we were plunged into dark- ness. We were right in the middle of a storm cloud, The myth of the Dolomites and the thunder was deafening. The sky all around In South Tyrolean extreme mountaineer Reinhold Messner’s words, they are “the most us was pitch black, and lit up with flashes of grey beautiful mountains in the world“. The incomparable beauty of the Dolomites is widely and yellow lightning. The hut shook under our feet renowned and for many they are synonymous with excellence in winter holidays. with every rumble of thunder. It was frightening, but when the storm clouds finally cleared it was a beautiful sight, and seeing one flash of lightning The mountains of the Dolomites can Dolomites are considered one of the Euringer peaks, stands out as one of after another all around us was an impressive sight be thought of as a fossilised coral most beautiful natural landscapes in the signature landmarks of South to behold,” they now say when recalling the unfor- reef arching up into the sky in spec- the world. Tyrol. The Catinaccio massif, with its tacular fashion. Thanks to their mo- numerous peaks, is also known far gettable, breathtaking spectacle of nature. In that numental beauty as well as their Sciliar-Catinaccio Nature Park: beyond the country’s borders. The record night in late July, over 14,000 lightning bolts geological and geomorphologic sig- South Tyrol’s oldest natural reserve, most striking part of the massif is the were recorded in South Tyrol. nificance, the so-called Pale Moun- a 7,291-hectare park, is situated in the Catinaccio D’Antermoia peak, which tains were awarded UNESCO World western Dolomites and was founded stands at a height of 3,002 metres. “I can still remember the thunder storms on the Heritage status in 2009. Divided into in 1974. The Sciliar is an impressive The natural park also includes the Alpe di Tires when I was a child and how loud it was nine areas and forming part of the mountain range whose emblematic mountain forests around Siusi, Fiè when the hailstones bounced off the metal roof, but Sciliar-Catinaccio Natural Park, the outline, that includes the Santner and and Tires, and the Ciamin Valley. « that thunderstorm on 25 July was immense, and I was amazed by how much we all kept our heads in spite of the apocalyptic feel in the air,” says Michel. Bruneck This was probably the most unforgettable memory Brunico Südtirol Lienz Toblach Dobbiaco

which the couple experienced in their first season, Brixen St. Vigil Meran Bressanone S. Vigilio and which they can now look back on with sati- Merano 5 St. Ulrich Ortisei Kastelruth Auronzo sfaction as they look forward to many more sum- Castelrotto 6 Seis am Schlern Corvara Cortina d’Am- Siusi allo Sciliar Seiser Alm Alpe di Siusi pezzo Völs am Schlern mer seasons spent at the heights of 3,000 metres. Fiè allo Sciliar Dolomites Tiers Pieve Ampezzo di Cadore Tires 7 Canazei The young couple can easily imagine having a fa- Bozen Alleghe 1 World Heritage Bolzano 2 mily in the future and spending the summer at the 8 Zoldo 4

Cavalese UNESCO Agordo Longarone mountain hut in the Catinaccio mountain group 3 Cimolais

Madonna di Campiglio Nature and cuisine with their children. “We are not climbers ourselves 1 Pelmo, Croda da Lago Pordenone Fiera di go hand in hand. Primiero Belluno but, if we have children, we will kit them out with 2 Marmolada 9 Udine Belluno climbing harnesses and ropes to make sure that 3 Pale San Martino, San Lucano Trento Dolomiti Bellunesi, Vette Feltrine Feltre Pordenone they are safe on the mountain sides, like so many 4 Friulian and d’Oltre Piave Dolomites Trentino of our predecessors have done up here,” the couple 5 Northern Dolomites say with a smile. « 6 Puez-Odle 7 Sciliar Catinaccio, Latemar 8 Bletterbach 9 Brenta Dolomites 28 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 29 The most precious spice in the world

Saffron, a handpicked treasure, is as precious as gold. Deep violet blossom: The siisters Sabine and Franzi are experimenting In autumn, saffron takes on a particularly with a crop in a field above Siusi allo Sciliar. intense hue. A

About 150,000 to 200,000 threads of saffron have autumn, the field was covered in the hardy violet to be harvested to produce a single kilogramme of plants, and every member of the family helped to saffron. And the “Crocus Sativus,” botanical name pick the flowers every day. They got to work early of the autumn-blooming, tuberous saffron plant, in the morning before the petals opened in the only comes into blossom once a year. Even in far- sunlight, otherwise the yellowy-red stigmas inside back olden times, saffron was so precious that it the flowers would have lost their essential oils and was weighed against gold, which is how it came their distinctive and heady aroma. to its alternative name of “red gold.” Saffron is a traditional crop in oriental and Mediterranean When the flowers have been picked, the meticu- countries, and also in Switzerland. But how about lously delicate work begins at home: Handpicking South Tyrol? three threads of saffron from each flower. And you can imagine what a gentle touch it needs! Franzi Saffron in Siusi allo Sciliar. “We first came up then lays the golden threads on baking trays and with the idea of growing saffron when we were dries them around the warm oven. “Roasting is a staying at a hotel in Alsace. The first tubers that we decisive factor in the quality,” as the sisters slowly used came on one part from Sardinia and the part learned. The threads shrink to a fifth of their ori- from Upper Austria,” recalls Franzi. The Sardinian ginal size and feel extremely fragile when Sabine tubers, however - unlike their Austrian counter- and Franzi weigh them on precision scales and parts - were reluctant to blossom; it would seem package a small amount into small dark glasses. that they weren’t well-suited to the Alpine cli- mate. “Team SaFran,” as the sisters SAbine and Bees love saffron. Even the seemingly super- FRANzi jokingly call themselves, sourced 6,000 fluous petals have a great purpose. “Bees love to eat bulbs from Austria and planted them in a sunny, crocus flowers. They buzz around the crocus field wind-sheltered field of the Winklerhof farm, in and munch on our floral leftovers,” says Sabine. front of the Schlern massif. Their home farm the Winklerhof boasts the ideal soil conditions for cro- After their first successful harvest a few years ago, cus plants as it is calcareous, rich in humus and Sabine and Franzi decided to expand their crop, Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher dry. Their efforts were not in vain: The following and grew another 10,000 tubers on roughly 300 » Photo: Helmuth Rier

30 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 31 Sabine and Franzi Schgaguler invest endless time and energy into their saffron crops at the Winklerhof above Siusi allo Sciliar.

square metres of arable land. The first planting ta- keep the weeds down and create added value.” kes place in late summer, and the saffron plants Growing saffron should continue to be a side bu- blossom around two months later. Then the four- siness for the sisters that brings them joy and en- year vegetation cycle begins: The tubers sprout in thusiasm. Sabine works full time in a sports shop spring and then the plants begin to garner their and Franzi runs the farm with her husband. strength. In summertime all the green dies away, and does not reappear until autumn. “We do not The customers for their lovingly packaged saffron use any fertiliser or chemicals, and for the most threads are local shops, including “South Tyrol part, water the plants only when it is particularly Products” at the valley station of the Seiser Alm dry in spring, but the weeds just keep growing,” cable car and the grocery shop “Konsum” in Ca- moans Franzi. Picking the rampant weeds days stelrotto. “We can’t produce enough to keep up after day is a lot of work, but not even the weeds with the demand”: The sisters are delighted with can spoil their joy in their venture. their success. Franzi often makes tea with a few infused saffron threads. “It’s a great pick-me-up,” A sideline with a soul. “We’re still in the expe- she says. The saffron liqueur, which she has made rimental phase,” says Sabine. Last summer, they is also delectable. Sabine, in similar vein, got her- treated a field with a layer of biodegradable corn- self a saffron recipe book and often tries out new starch. “It was worth a try. Next year we’ll try dishes. Her greatest wish is to work together with sowing buckwheat or rye in the spring to try to local professional chefs as a saffron-grower. «

32 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 33 The blue apron

Tourism adverts in South Tyrol promise you 300 days of sunshine a year and a holiday under a blue sky. Deep sky-blue is also the colour of the most commonly-seen item of clothing in South Tyrol. Very much the preserve of the menfolk in days gone by, the blue apron is also enormously popular with women nowadays.

The blue apron also called the “Schurz” in South Tyrol, has shaped the image of these lands like no other garment. If you keep your eyes peeled when you’re out and about you are bound to catch a glimpse of the “Schurz”, known variously as “Fürtig”, “Firtig” or “Fürchta” depending on where you happen to be, especially in the countryside and mostly donned by farmers and craftspeople. However, you’re also very likely to spot it under the shopping arcades in Bolzano or at the fruit market, as the winegrowers in the Bolzano area remain devoted fans of the blue apron to this day.

The blue apron, or “farmer’s apron” is a clear de- claration of class; it is a staple item in the working wardrobe and is practically indispensable to the working man in South Tyrol. “A man without an apron is only half-dressed,” as a local proverb A blue apron is a clear Text: Barbara Pichler sign of a hard-working Photo: Helmuth Rier goes, and many people are still of the same opi- » South Tyrolean. »

34 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 35 The uses of the blue apron are as multi-faceted as the people who wear it with such pride. reached an affordable price in around 1900, syn- thetic blue became the colour of choice, bringing a splash of colour into everyday life and a new “fashion” for the workers of South Tyrol. It was generally home-sewn by the women of the house, and the breast bib was often adorned with lovingly stitched embroidery. Today, you can buy the blue apron in all specialist stores, at markets, and in general stores; it is often embellished with a witticism, making it a popular souvenir for both locals and guests. The apron is the vehicle of choice for making statements, and lovingly-embroidered adornments. “funny and single,” “Ra- rely at home” or “married and done,” especially in the days when courting was a secret affair, would have conveyed a meaningful signal to the mar- riage market.

Living tradition. The blue apron has got good prospects as the garb of choice for the quirky character in the third millennium. Years ago, Mikamale, a design team from Bolzano, came up with the idea of creating novel items in traditional fabrics. Everyday articles such as shopping bags and bread baskets for the breakfast table are stitched in the robust cotton and sold in museum shops as well as in a number of shops in South Tyrol. Fashion label Qollezione plan to rewrite the history of the blue apron, and their fi- nely embroidered skirts, trousers and jackets will enthuse the younger generation for blue cotton: New fashion, with a hint of tradition.

When work is done. If you meet a man who has pulled up a corner of his apron and twisted it behind his trousers, it means that his working nion today. Be that as it may, women have long all manner of small items can be stowed away in day is done. Older people know endless other since discovered the “Schurz” for themselves, the bib, so you can wander around the house or hidden messages: It does make a difference if an eminently practical and multi-purpose as it is. It the field without a bag. And in an emergency, the apron corner hangs over your left leg or your ri- protects clothing, which especially in the past, was apron also comes in handy as a hanky or to wipe ght. But at the end of the day, you just have to cared for with great attention. When the two ends a weary brow. put the apron on for yourself to see what it does are held in one hand, it makes a handy makeshift to a man (or woman). With its endless versatility, sack for carrying all manner of things for example: History. The apron was originally white, made in there is every reason to hope that this amazing seeds, potatoes, apples or wood from A to B when local linen and was worn by farmers even on Sun- South Tyrolean accessory will be worn for a long you’re in a hurry. Documents, the newspaper and days or on strolls through the city. When cotton time to come. «

36 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 37 Artist Willy Valier left a meaningful mark through his life’s works. In memory of Willy Valier

100 years ago, the famed artist Willy Valer was born. Valier revolutionised art in South Tyrol, and spent many years of his life in Siusi allo Sciliar. I

In 2019, all South Tyrol shared homage to the great Willy began his academic life at the Franziska- artist Karl Plattner. Born in Malles in 1919, he was ner high school in Bolzano, but shortly afterwards undoubtedly one of the most important artists of changed his course of studies and attended the the post-war period. And on 6 December, his friend School of Viticulture and Oenology in Conegliano one of the most innovative artists of the 1960s who Veneto. In 1939, he matriculated at the Florence sent shock waves through the art world in South Art Academy, which he also abandoned due to the Tyrol was born: Willy Valier. war. Valier was one of the first people to “opt” for the German Reich following the Mussolini-Hitler Willy Valier was born in Bolzano in 1920, the el- Agreement calling for the forcible resettlement of dest son of Willy Valier Senior and Valeria Cagol, South Tyroleans. In 1930 he enlisted in the Ger- and died of a heart failure at a very young age on man Navy, partly due to his enthusiasm for the sea 2 September 1968, while on holiday with his wife and technology. He shared his sharp mind with his Liana and their seven year-old daughter Sarah in uncle Max Valier (1895-1930), a great pioneer of Senigallia. He is buried in St. Paulo/Appiano. His rocket technology and also one of its first victims; father ran a bakery under the porticoed arcades in he died in 1930 in an explosion during a trial run Bolzano; after a failed attempt to expand the ba- of a new engine for the Shell company. The town kery into a larger company and thus, at the time of of Siusi memorialised Max Valier with the naming the great economic depression of 1930, the Valier of a street, and the Technological High School in Arnold Tribus, family built and managed a Viennese Art Nouveau Bolzano that also bears his name. journalist and editor style hotel in MIramare, Rimini together with their of the “Die neuen friends, artist couple May and Anton Hofer. In 1943 Willy Valier married Anneliese Gerold Südtiroler Tageszeitung” daily newspaper, also from Innsbruck, who gave birth to their child. ran an art gallery Hofer had attended the Kolo Moser School of Ap- After the war, the Valier family moved to Siusi, in Bolzano for 20 years. plied Arts in Vienna, and was a member of the where they again managed a hotel – the “Monte Vienna Workshop (Wiener Werkstätten), while his Piz,” after their hotel on the Adriatic had been wife May (1896-2000) had a prestigious reputation bombed during the hostilities. The hotel was to Text: Arnold Tribus Photo: Helmuth Rier as a textile and enamel artist. become a .retreat for Willy Valier, and from that »

38 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 39 With his mixed-media works, Willy Valier created a connection with the international avant-garde.

time onwards Siusi remained a point of reference which was certainly the most radical of his short-li- for the artist. ved artistic career. This mixed-media approach re- ceived only reserved public approval; his audience IN the mid-1950s, architect Arno Hofer once again felt disoriented and confused. His good friend Karl built a modern, bungalow style villa for Valier’s pa- Plattner, who also struggled on the scene with his rents, for which Willy Valier designed some furni- cubist-style art, confirmed a similar experience (let shings, wrought-iron lamps and banisters. The Va- us not forget that one of Plattner’s 1951 frescoes, lier’s villa again became a rendezvous for artists created for the war memorial in Naturno/Naturns, and intellectuals, including Karl Plattner, Piero was covered over with plywood until 1968). Siena, Roland Veneri and Gino Scarpa. Valier’s mixed-media works are mainly large-for- In 1949 Willy Valier resumed his art studies at the mat compositions in which, alongside colour, he Munich Academy, where the artists Emanuel used a variety of unusual materials including sand, Fohn and Josef Kienlechner helped him to find a plaster, ash, cement and plasticine with PVA glue, place. He did not, however, complete his studies, drawing his inspiration from masters such as Burri, and dropped out once again in 1954. In the 1950s, Tapiés, Dubuffet or Fautier. Through these works, Valier embarked on an intensive period of exhi- Valier succeeded in creating a connection with the bitions. international avant-garde scene which had been moulded by the “Informel,” the collective appel- lation for abstract art movements of, amongst His works others, action painting, tachisme and art brut. In- formalist art eschews fixed rules of composition in Willy Valier considered the post-WW II era to be a favour of spontaneity. It is by no means, however, sharp turning point in the history of the world and chaos on canvas, but rather an unveiling of crea- the history of art. Shaken by the war, the atomic tive gesture and deliberate intent. » bomb, fascism, National Socialism and Auschwitz, the world of art turned its attention to approaches which could help to create a new beginning; the newly-regained freedom needed a creative outlet. And in Bolzano, Willy Valier was undoubtedly one of the most prominent figures of this new dawn. With his charismatic nature, he was soon to become a point of reference for a new, younger generation of artists who wanted to make a clean break with the past.

Valier‘s artistic career is a complex affair. His first cycle of works in the 1950s is an expression of a fantasy world and, above all, is characterised by stylised motivs with emblematic titles such as “Ge- ometric Fish” and his famed birds, with a striking objectivity and a delicate embellishment. The beautiful colours of his works suited his audience’s tastes: Modern, but not over the top and, above all, not abstract. They did not provide the artist with long term satisfaction, however; He was searching for something new and, principally, anxious not to lose his bond with the national and international art scene. At this time he created his second cycle of works, an abstract mixed-media-art period

40 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 41 With his mixed-media art, Valier started an open confrontation with the bourgeois society and the established art world of the time. Valier’s work in the 1960s proved to be one of great importance in the new style of art in South Tyrol, as he not only developed his own style, but went far beyond all that was provincial. In his third phase, when he had reached full maturity, he returned to the figurative element which was to become the expression of his message, both political and erotic. His pictu- res were not created as an act of informal spontaneity, but an alternating rythm of slow and fast; not TOP explosive, but rather a process that constantly pa- ced conditions, colours and lines. Valier’s colour di- scipline is striking; it is not an indulgence of colour, 7 emotion saunas but a modulation of grey-brown-blue-red; his for- Panoramic roof terrace mal elements are cumbersome, menacing, fuzzy Romantic organic hay bath for two and charged with meaning. 20 m & 360° Dolomiti saltwater indoor POOL Exclusive sauna and relaxation area One cannot overlook Valier’s biting humour, his Infinity SKY POOL on the Vitarium Alpinium with chromotherapy waterbeds political message, his anger, frustration and dissa- tisfaction, and the latent aggression which can be seen in both the background and the foreground; Day SPA: Use of the entire sauna & pool area. the complex form of his imagery creates tension Day SPA & Breakfast: In addition you'll start your SPA DAY with a nice breakfast and mirrors the artist’s psychological and intel- from the buffet (from 7.15 until 10.30 am). lectual makeup, his excitement and his emotions. Day SPA & Relax: In addition a wellness treatment of your choice: Valier‘s break with his 1950s style was so confron- tationally clear that many people turned away from body wrap, body peeling or partial body massage. him. His works were no longer a question of be- Day SPA & Private SPA: In addition enjoy an hour by two at the Private SPA with auty or of an artist’s desire to create harmony, candlelight and a glass of sparkling wine with a whirlpool, quite the reverse: To a large extent, his new works a steam room and Kneipp foot bath, a shower and a were the expression of conceptual abstraction. cuddly heart bed.

In 1966 Willy Valier joined the Communist Party Day SPA & Gourmet: In addition you'll enjoy a four course dinner - gourmet which for him signified a connection to the avant- menu with salad buffet. garde currents of the time, but which South Tyro- Day SPA & Relax & Gourmet: In addition a wellness treatment of your choice: leans saw as a provocation, akin to that of our gre- Body wrap, body scrub or partial massage and in the atest poet Norbert Conrad Caser signing up to the evening enjoy a four course menu with salad buffet. Communist Party; he who had planned to become a Capuchin monk and then joined the communists. He donated one of his works to the Party and desi- Artist Willy Valier succeeded in developing his own style, going gned a fresco for the assembly hall of the Chamber the best romantik spa area Massages and beauty offers also for non hotel guests beyond all that was provincial. of Labour. Valier’s abundant expression was never again pleasing, enjoyable or exhilarating, and in no ABINEA Dolomiti Romantic SPA way corresponded to the traditional image of art; Via Panider Str. 21/1 the provincial artist had become a national and Eu- I-39040 Castelrotto ropean artist. « T +39 0471 707 237 [email protected] abinea.com 42 ALPE | Summer Fresh NEW products BUTCHER from our GRUBER local farmers

• Food • Butcher • Bakery • Confectionery • Hardware • Gardening • Agriculture articles

The „Konsum Markt“ is a „color- „local production,“ „short shipping Pear jam ful“ department store in the heart distances,“ and „stimulating the of Kastelruth / Castelrotto. It‘s local economy“ were major consi- with saffron the wide range of products that derations. The wide variety of Sou- makes it so extraordinary: You‘ll th Tyrolean specialties available ﬁ nd not only an extensive assort- here includes traditional „schuet- LOCAL! INGREDIENTS PREPARATION ment of foods as well as gourmet telbrot“ („shake bread“) made by specialties from local farmers the Burgauner Bakery and Pastry and organic produce but also Shop – a delicacy usually served UNIQUE! · 1 kg ripe pears Peel and chop the pears and leave them to sit with the sugar agricultural equipment and hard- together with „Kastelruth bacon“ · 500 g sugar and lemon peel for one hour. Then put this ingredients into a pan, AUTHENTIC! ware / appliances. In selecting the from the butchery Gruber. · Peel of 1 lemon bring to the boil, simmer gently for around 10 minutes and OPEN merchandise to be offered in our We are looking forward · Biological gelling agent blend with a stick blender. Stir in the crushed saffron and the supermarket, such aspects as to your visit! ALL YEAR · 1 teaspoon saffron gelling agent and bring to the boil again. Pour into small jars up to the brim, close them and turn upside down. From Monday Cover with a cloth and leave for at least 24 hours. to Saturday Famiglia Cooperativa di Castelrotto 07:30 - 12:30 a.m. Barbara Pichler Via Panider 24, Tel. 0471 706 330, Fax: 0471 710 501 15:00 - 19:00 p.m. [email protected], www.konsummarkt.com 44 ALPE | Summer Summer Highlights 2020 Photo: Adobe Stock Photo: Photo: Helmuth Rier Helmuth Photo: Photo: IDM/Helmuth Rier IDM/Helmuth Photo: Photo: SAM/Helmuth Rier SAM/Helmuth Photo: Photo: IDM/Marion Lafogler IDM/Marion Photo: Photo: SAM/Armin Indio Mayr Indio SAM/Armin Photo: Photo: Schloss Prösels/Helmuth Rier Prösels/Helmuth Schloss Photo:

> 1 May – 31 October 2021 > 6 May – 30 June 2020 > 5 July 2020 11 July 2020 > 6 July – 31 August 2020 Summer 2020 > 1 - 31 October 2020 > 1 September – 31 October 2020 SUMMER AT SEISER BALANCE 8th SEISER ALM 4th ROSENGARTEN-SCHLERN SUMMER CLASSICS OPEN-AIR GOURMET THE 43rd KUCHLKASTL - SEISER ALM BALANCE CASTLE PRÖSELS IN SPRING HALF MARATHON SKY MARATHON IN SIUSI ALLO SCILIAR EXTRAVAGANZA CULINARY FESTIVAL IN AUTUMN IN FIÈ ALLO SCILIAR At Castle Prösels, enchanting As the countryside awakens in 21 kilometres, 601 metres of eleva- Right in the very heart of the uni- For lovers of classical music, Siusi With three unusual open-air gour- Recharge your batteries in South matinées and sophisticated eve- spring, the urge to get out into the tion gain and 700 participants: que UNESCO World Heritage Dolo- offers an extraordinary series of met events on the cards, the Seiser The Kuchlkastl Culinary Festival has Tyrol’s nature. In Autumn 2020, a nings are offered. The high-quality open air gets ever stronger and These are the characteristic num- mites, an Alpine Mountain Mara- concerts. Artists will perform the Alm summer promises to be been the culinary highlight of series of events and workshops the- repertoire of artists ranges from draws us out into the great outdo- bers of the Seiser Alm Half Mara- thon with a length of 45 km and works of great composers. The something of a culinary experience. autumn in the Alpe di Siusi holiday med around wellness and relaxation the fine sounds of classical music ors and the spring air. A variety of thon on 5 July 2020. Surrounded by around 3,000 m of elevation diffe- “Summer Classics“ of Siusi repre- First up is the Berglertafel (Moun- area for over 40 years now. Gour- will be taking place. Assisted by the through down-to-earth brass events and workshops on the the Dolomites UNESCO World rence will be setting off from Tires sent a high level of musical talent taineers’ Banquet) in Tires al Cati- mets and lovers of traditional helping hand of nature, they offer a music to sophisticated jazz. From theme of health, balance, nutri- Heritage, the Seiser Alm Half Mara- al Catinaccio: the Catinaccio-Sciliar and have long since become an naccio on 16 July – legendary not cooking are in for a treat in Octo- sublime time-out for body and soul May to October, guided tours take tious diet, optimal training techni- thon is a unique experience and Sky Marathon. The challenging integral component of our summer only for its culinary finesse but also ber, when the restaurants in Fiè allo and the opportunity to amass your you through the historic walls of ques for runners and equipment sporting challenge for both profes- mountain race will begin in Tires, cultural program. Both locals and for its spectacular views over the Sciliar open their doors for the energy stores for the coming win- the castle. Furthermore, in July will ensure you have all the basics sional and amateur athletes. lead round the Catinaccio Massif, visitors will be enchanted. Catinaccio mountain. “Gastronomic October” festival. The ter. These experiences in the brea- and August, magical family tours, you need to get the warm season The starter‘s gun for the running over the Sciliar, past the Monte On 29 July, Castelrotto will be wel- chefs will be serving up traditional thtakingly beautiful autumn coun- with „Knight Friedrich“, „Witch off to a good start. event with start and finish in Com- Cavone Hut and back to Tires. The DATES coming its guests to a culinary recipes with a modern flair. The tryside are a guarantee of relaxation Marta“ and ghostly nights with www.seiseralm.it/balance patsch is fired at 10.00 am. highest point of the Sky Marathon 6, 13 and 20 July event steeped in history: the Krau- theme: Old recipes reinterpreted and culinary pleasure at its very „Fridolin von Pröselstein“ let chil- running.seiseralm.it is the Principe Pass at 2,630 m. 17, 24. and 31 August 2020 sen Banquet, where the Monte Cal- and served with love. best, and are held in sites of special dren‘s eyes sparkle. www.skymarathontiers.it vario hill will be providing the histo- energy on the Seiser Alm and in the www.schloss-proesels.it rical backdrop for the evening. 9 - 11 > October 2020 villages of Castelrotto, Siusi, Fiè allo In the beginning of September the Sciliar and Tires al Catinaccio. 36th KASTELRUTHER gourmet events draw to a close at www.seiseralm.it/balance SPATZEN MUSIC FESTIVAL the “Vormessn” on the Seiser Alm, where an exceptional breakfast will Celebrating, spending pleasant eve- be served accompanied by a 360° nings together, experiencing the view of the Seiser Alm. “Kastelruther Spatzen” live: The Spa- tzen-Festival in Castelrotto is a must for every fan. Surrounded by the unique scenery of the Dolomi- tes the seven “Spatzen“ enchant all friends of traditional music.

This issue of ALPE was printed in May 2020. Due to the many uncertainties connected with the spread of the Covid-19 pandemic, the editors cannot guarantee that the events which have been planned (and are listed in this issue) will take place. We all hope that we overcome this crisis as soon as possible, so that we can meet once again and take joy together in the many large and small pleasures on life.

The ALPE Editorial Team

46 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 47 Winter Preview 2020/21 Photo: SAM/F-Tech Photo: Photo: Helmuth Rier Helmuth Photo: Rier Helmuth Photo: Photo: Helmuth Rier Helmuth Photo: Mayr Armin „Indio“ Photo:

years

> December 2020 > December 2020 > Winter 20/21 > 17 January 2021 > 28 January 2021 > January 2021 > 17 – 21 March 2021 > March 2021 MAGICAL CHRISTMAS WINTER KIDS FESTIVAL LIVING THE CASTLE TRADITIONAL 15th SOUTH TYROL FIS WORLD CUP 15th SWING ON SNOW WORLD ROOKIE TOUR – IN THE HOLIDAY AREA PRÖSELS IN WINTER COUNTRY WEDDING MOONLIGHT CLASSIC SLOPESTYLE SNOWBOARD WINTER MUSIC FESTIVAL FREESKI FINALS SEISER ALM The 2020/21 winter season will be OF CASTELROTTO SEISER ALM & FREESKI getting off to a sparkling start with The majestic Castle Prösels, owned Jazz in the mountain huts, soul on The Seiser Alm Snowpark will host When the fragrant scent of ginger- the fifth Kids’ Winter Festival on the from the “Kuratorium Castel Prös- The Country Wedding in Castelrotto A sporting event illuminated by the For the fifth year in a row, the wor- the slopes and traditional tunes in the first Freeski Rookie Finals for the bread, cinnamon and mulled wine Seiser Alm with Nix the Witch. Nix els” has been refurbished and is has already become a tradition. It‘s glow of flickering torchlight, the ld’s best freestylers will be taking to the restaurants in the evenings: second time in March 2021. waft through the air, you know it’s is calling all kids to join in the party, open also in the winter months for the authentic reproduction of a chance to put your skills to the test their boards and skis in a gravi- Musicians from all over the Alpine The international contest combines Advent time at the foot of the Sci- and will be transforming them into guided tours. The castle boasts seve- historical farmer‘s wedding like at international level, and the ty-defying display of choreography. region will be performing from mor- sports competition with a lifestyle liar. The pre-Christmas period is a witches and wizards for the occa- ral collections historical arms, the those celebrated since time imme- spectacular winter backdrop of the The two Slopestyle World Cups will ning to night in the holiday area Sei- experience, where talented under 18 time of contemplation here in the sion. The day is guaranteed to be valuable “Batzenhäusl” and picture morial at the foot of the Seiser Alm. Seiser Alm. In 2021, the Moonlight be taking place at the Seiser Alm ser Alm for the Swing on Snow festi- freeskier from several nations meet holiday region of the Seiser Alm. The fun: games, an arts and crafts cor- collections. In January, February and The throngs of participants wear Classic will once again be offering Snow Park. val. Bands and singers will be setting and compete for prestigious prizes. Christmas markets in the towns of ner, a treasure hunt, good music and March 2020, every Thursday at 3pm their traditional garments with great numerous athletes and cross-coun- Slopestyle, first introduced at Sochi the tone on the slopes and getting During the finals of the freeskiers, Castelrotto, Fiè and Tires are small masses of surprises to bring a shine a guided castle tour takes place. pride – one of the reasons why the try fans the chance to spend a sen- 2014, is the most recent extreme-di- old and young, winter sports visitors which qualified on the tour in yet beautiful and get guests and to the eyes of every child. Nix the After the one-hour guided tour a event has developed into one of sational evening on the Seiser Alm scipline on the Olympic scene, and and music lovers alike, into the party Austria, Switzerland, the USA and locals alike in the mood for Christ- witch also has a whole lot of tricks glass of “Apfelglühmix” a mulled South Tyrol‘s most spectacular page- by night. Participants can opt to take sees athletes competing on a mood. Slovakia, will be awarded the World mas time, far away from the tumults to teach for safety on the snow. local apple juice will be served. ants. part in either the 30 km or the 15 km course, which features a variety of The modern interpretation of tradi- Rookie Freeski Champions. of the cities. With traditional handi- www.schloss-proesels.it variant of the loop route. Both jumps and obstacles. Six judges rate tional folk music with jazz, soul and In addition to the competition, the craft, specialities from the South variants begin and end in Compat- tricks on creativity, difficulty and pop reflect the musical culture of World Rookie Tour Events include a Tyrolean kitchen and Christmas-y sch and are raced exclusively in clas- execution or style, while jumps are the Alps; listeners can swerve in strong lifestyle program with video tunes they invite you to enjoy a sic diagonal style. The starting pistol evaluated on height, range and lan- time to the beats and rhythms, and premiere, workshops, parties, yoga sociable get-together. for this cross-country spectacle will ding. weave their way downhill to the lessons, meetings on typical dinners be fired at 8pm. At the start/finish www.seiseralm.it/worldcup sounds of the tuba, bass, dulcimer and much more. area, spectators will already have and accordion. Concerts will be www.worldrookietour.com DATES gathered en-masse to enjoy the played on the slopes of the Seiser atmospheric display when the > 7 March 2021 Alm in the mornings, afternoons in

th alphorn players and whip crackers the huts and evenings in the villages 15 Christmas in the WINTER BERGLERTAFEL take to the floor to set the scene for of Castelrotto, Siusi, Fiè allo Sciliar mountains in Castelrotto MOUNTAINEERS’ BANQUET 5 – 8 December 2020 the evening. and Tires al Catinaccio. 11 – 13 December 2020 www.moonlightclassic.info In 20201 the legendary summer’s www.swingonsnow.com 18 – 20 December 2020 Berglertafel Mountaineers’ Banquet 24 December 2020 in Tires al Catinaccio will be featu- 26 – 30 December 2020 ring on the winter events’ program 2. – 5 January 2021 for the fourth time. Like its summer counterpart, the Berglertafel’s Flying Christmas market Buffet will be serving classic dishes in Fiè allo Sciliar with a creative twist in a feast for 5 - 8 December 2020 the eyes as well as the stomach, as 12 & 13 December 2020 participants will discover when the 18 – 20 December 2020 day draws to a close with a view over the famed Alpenglow of Cati- “Bergler” Advent naccio at sunset. in Tires al Catinaccio 5 December 2020 19 December 2020

48 ALPE | Summer Summer | ALPE 49 Around & about Mesmerising Natural Paradise “Witches’ Springs”

Photo: Helmuth Rier Helmuth Photo: The barefoot adventure trail for the whole family …

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35th anniversary of the “Kastelruther Spatzen Fest”. The first-ever “Kastelruther Spatzen Fest” was held in August 1985 in Castelrotto. It was a small affair at that time, with a slightly different line-up and without the slightest inkling of the success it would become. The “Kastelruther Spatzen” (“Castelrotto Sparrows”) have long been the undisputed stars of the folk scene; over the course of the last few decades they have sold millions of discs, and are charismatic

35 Jahre „Kastelruther Spatzen Fest“ th Il 35° anniversario della “Festa dei Kastelruther Spatzen” ambassadors to our homeland. The “35 Kastelruther Spatzen Fest” was held last autumn, and lasted for five days. 35th anniversary of the “Kastelruther Spatzen Fest” …. Finishing at the cosy Tirler cabin The holiday area Seiser Alm, a popular film location In 2016 a part of the film “A Hidden Life,” released in German cinemas in January 2020, was shot on location at S. Valentino in Siusi allo Sciliar. The inspiring film by director Terrence Malick, is based on true events and tells the story of farmer and Nazi resistance fighter Franz Jägerstätter (played by August Diehl), who staunchly refused to fight for the Wehrmacht; even in the face of his impending execution, his resolve to follow TIRLER - DOLOMITES LIVING HOTEL his conscience was unwavering. I-Alpe di Suisi (BZ), Saltria 59, Dolomites - South Tyrol T +39 0471 727 927, F +39 0471 727 849 [email protected], www.tirler.com The Törggelen Farm of the Year 2019 Tirler_Curadina_anstecknadel_pfad_RZ.indd18.07.12 1 08:10

Törggelen, one of the greatest culinary customs in South Tyrol, is so beloved that it has been christened with the title of “5th season.” When the grape harvest has drawn to a close, the traditional Buschenschänke farmhouse taverns serve guests a feast of homemade, mouth-wateringly tasty dishes. Every autumn many of these farm inns enter the “Törggelen farm of the year competition”. In 2019, the “Laitnkeller” in Helicopterservice Aica di Fiè took part in the contest and claimed the victorious title of the South Tyrolean Sunday Newspaper “Zett”. The family farm has been welcoming guests to enjoy a break and savour traditional South Tyrolean fare since the 15th century.

ALPE would like to congratulate them on this outstanding achievement! Zett/DLife Photo: Experience the Dolomites IMPRINT. ALPE: Reg. Court Bolzano / Bolzano, n. 9/2002 R.St. Published by: Seiser Alm Marketing, 39050 Fiè allo Sciliar, Via del Paese, 15, Tel. +39 0471 709 600, Fax +39 0471 704 199, [email protected], www.seiseralm.it. Legally responsible for the editorial content: Elisabeth Augustin Editorial Team: Elisabeth Augustin, Rosa Maria Erlacher, Sabine Funk, Christine Neulichedl, Barbara Pichler Rier, Katja Sanin; Photographer: Helmuth Rier; from the sky! Translations: Studio Bonetti & Peroni. Advertising: Sabine Demetz, Christoph Trocker. Graphic: Komma Graphik. Printing: Litopat, Verona. Book at T +39 331 8877888 [email protected] 50 ALPE | Summer

MAN-Tirler-Ins. SeiserAlmMagazin-E.indd 1 03.05.18 08:18 Platz für Vertrauen. Zum Beispiel beim Thema Sicherheit. Reden wir drüber. Spazio alla fiducia. Ad esempio in tema di sicurezza. Parliamone.

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